There are tons of videos on this theme. BUT. You do it in a way that everyone can understand it. I thank you for your work and effort to share your knowledge with us.
Although I’m fairly new to watches, I have managed to regulate a few on my NH35A movements down to +2 to +3 seconds a day. I initially ruined 2 Invicta watches while I was regulating them so it occurred to me that any future regulating it might be safer to hack the movement while adjusting the regulator and restart the watch afterward which works nicely. As I cannot justify a timegrapher, I use your 2nd method by using the world clock on my iPad. It might be worth noting that after regulating a watch, if after 2 or 3 hours it is running obviously fast or slow, there’s no need to wait the full 24 hours to adjust the regulator again, just do it and reset the time and fine tune it from there. Sometimes when regulating a watch, it may not be advisable to try to get it too accurate, such as +0 seconds per day but try for about +5 seconds per day. From experience I’ve found that if you regulate a watch dial up, it might run to almost perfect time over 24 hours but when you wear the watch, it’s now crown down and as watches run differently in various positions, it might slow down and run at -3 or -4 seconds per day. If the watch is regulated to +5 seconds per day and wearing it crown down causes it to lose 3 or 4 seconds per day, the watch will be running at +1 or +2 seconds per day, which is perfect.
Thank you for sharing your experience! It's true that it's usually good to err on the positive side a little bit. The non dial up positions can and usually run slower due to the addition of extra friction. With that in mind, a small plus in dial up usually ends up a near zero.
Thanks for the tutorial, I did not have a time grapher so i regulated the watch using the method you showed, I managed after approximately 7 attempts to get an accuracy on my Seiko NH35A movement to within less than a second a day. After 6 days of daily wear it is still within one second. Having adjusted it to real word wearing I am extremely happy. I have ordered a thrid party microphone to use with an open source time Grapher software for my PC. I think based on my experience I'll use the time grapher software to adjust it to say within 1 second a day and then wear it continuously for a week and make any adjustments necessary after observing real world /life style usage. Thanks once again i found this very useful.
Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
You got a new subscriber for the simple, professional, and concise way you deliver the intended information. I’ll watch your other videos for the lifting angle explanation, if you have one. You gave a list but understanding the principle makes it easier to understand the readings and results. Thank you very much!
Very informative. I just use the manual method you show at the end, with real life usage rather then crown positions etc, and getting totally acceptable results on my two sub £300 automatics. I'm getting +4 and +8 on the pair, so no adjustments needed at the moment, and I just set them a minute slow each month.
I had my Seiko 5 Caliber 6309 serviced very recently. When I got it back after service, I tested its accuracy on the Watch Accuracy Meter app. It showed a rate of -5s/d. I was quite a bit worried whether I had to get it re-checked but it kept time pretty much accurately despite being a 43 yr old machine. This video made me realize that the accuracy shown in the timegrapher indeed is a bit deviated from the accuracy during day-to-day activities.
Very well done indeed! Clear explanations, just enough detail to be interesting and educational without going over or under the target audience. I’ll be watching your other videos. I’m going to take a crack at regulating one of my NH35A’s.
The reason you dont get the same Time Deviation in real life as on the time grapher is because: 1. You measure the Rate in only one position of the watch. 2. The rate you measure is the rate when the watch is fully wound and the watch usually will get a faster rate when the watch gets unwound during the day/night. I usually regulate my watches to about a couple of -sec/day when the watch is fully wound which makes the watch go to about a couple of +s/day during the night when the watch is on my desk. Sometimes it takes some days before the watch gets to + in the night and - during the day but that keeps my watches close to 0s/day.
What you said is absolutely correct. I did not discuss positional adjustment and isochronism in this video because I want this video to be an beginner's introduction to regulation, and those two topics are more than enough an entire separate video. If I included them in this video, it could be half an hour long! On the real life performance, that's where taking a statistical approach - taking the average - is useful. I don't have to account for whether it's + or - in the day or at night. If on average it's close to 0s/day it's good enough for me. But personally I still sometimes prefer an overall + since being early isn't something I need to worry about.
@@DIYWatchClub That is all very true. In addition, it's much quicker to re-sync a slightly fast watch to Naval Observatory time than a slow one! I enjoyed your very concise video and hope to see it expanded upon in the future. For instance, I have a timegrapher, and my Seiko Alpinist that I purchased in 2016 was starting to show a weak amplitude and slow rate in the vertical positions (crown up and down) in the 170s-180s,/-30s/day while horizontal dial up and down were 220-230/0s/day. I suspect it needs an overhaul and lubrication since it has never had one since I purchased it, so that is my intent. But there are precious few videos out there that discuss the warning signs that can be seen with a timegrapher when a movement requires maintenance. Again, thank you for your exceptional video. The photography was very clear and close-in.
Thanks! It was helpful. I regulated a NH35A mechanism but it was not that easy! Very "tiny-tiny" movement/adjustment on the regulator's lever resulted in big deviation 40+/- secs!!. I was initially +23 sec' on small movement turned it to -18 sec/day or worse -40'' then trying the apposite +45''. I tried may times with very tiny adjustments to archive theoretical +3 sec/day (need to verify it now). I used an android app that uses mobile mic to measure tics as a "Timegrapher" with quite good accuracy (real measurement is close to the readings of the app). The app is called "Watch Accuracy Meter" and worded fine for me.
Really enjoyed this video! You explained things so concisely that I now want to keep my watches more closely regulated. Thanks for sharing this with me, you've earned a subscriber.
Great work on the video. I really like the explanation at 1:33 of the regulator's effect on the hair spring. Just subscribed and hope that you come out with some more quality content. You could an entire video on each of the parameters shown on the timegrapher and how they relate to the function of the watch. I'd watch.
Thanks for the sub! I can tell you that I do have a video on the exact subject you mentioned in the pipeline. But I'm slooowly getting to it. So stay tuned!
10 days ago, I bought a new watch with Seiko NH34 movement through internet shopping. I check and record the change and realize that it runs 15 seconds faster daily rather steadily. If I understand correctly, the watch is still within acceptable range that I can't send the watch back to the manufacturer for service or adjustment. If I do so, I have to bear the shipping cost since it is not defective. Thank you for your video - it is great and so informative.
I have designed a hybrid method for adjusting the beat rate for a watch and I managed to achieve a level of precision of 0.2 sec/day. I am an engineer but not in this particular field of timekeeping. My method combines the timegrapher with a daily evaluation against a reference. First I wanted to identify the variables of this problem, or the things that affects the movement and the beat rate. Here is the short list: - temperature variation (season, occupation or job type). The beat rate is faster in cold than in warm due to the contraction/ dilatation of the hairspring. I prefer evaluating and adjusting a movement during the summer (July or August) - magnetization - this is the worst enemy of your watch, including shocks and aggressive vibrations - the average position of the watch (the beat rate is different from one position to another, especially for cheap movements: dial up or down, crown up or down) - winding level or the activity level of the owner. Every owner has a different lifestyle therefore the beat rate of the same watch will change for different owners. My reasoning: An accurate quick adjustment can never account for all variables so I thought: what if I include these variables in a global long term evaluation? Since I do not belong to this specific branch, I can take criticism easily. Here is the method: 0. In order for the mechanism to run in a stabilized manner, the watch must run for at least one month, preferable two months, before making any evaluation or beat adjustment. It takes a while for the lubricants and for the hair spring to achieve stability. Initially the lubricants are more viscous and the hairspring is less flexible. In time the lubricants become more fluid and the hairspring becomes more elastic, so the beat rate has a decreasing tendency. Any attempt to evaluate or to regulate the movement will be invalidated later, so be patient. You could use a winder, but the regular watch winders are excessively winding the movement even at their lowest setting. Just ware the watch during this time an you can make an informative evaluation that should not be used for the final regulation. 1. First evaluate the magnetization level of the entire watch, including the bracelet (use a compass on top of the watch and slowly rotate the watch on the horizontal plane while watching any deviation of the compass. Do not rush it. I consider maximum 4° deviation as acceptable) 2. Demagnetize the entire watch, including the bracelet. Any magnetization will invalidate the measurements, or will discontinue the evaluation. If magnetization occurs just demagnetize the watch and start over, but validate the records while the watch was not magnetized. 3. Synchronize the watch with a reference that you will use over and over (cellphone, radio station - note that there is an offset between analog and digital radio receivers, usually the analog ones are quicker since they are not processing the radio signal) 4. Log the deviation into an Excel spreadsheet 5. Wear the watch normally 6. Before every daily evaluation check the watch for magnetization so you can validate your measurement. There is no problem if you skip days, but make sure that you check the watch for magnetization. 7. Make the evaluation/ record roughly at the same time during the day. Some movement complications alter the beat rate at certain moments (21:00-24:00 interval for day-date complications decreases the beat rate, then it accelerates). 8. After at least seven days (the longer, the better - even two months if magnetization doesn’t occur) calculate the average daily deviation. Let’s say +15 sec/day. 9. Put the watch on the timegrapher with the movement exposed, ready for adjustment and let the beat rate stabilize. You will notice that the beat rate will increase as the temperature of the watch cools to the room temperature, let’s say from +15 to +21 sec/day (the cheaper the movement, the greater the difference). Make sure that dust won’t make its way into the movement during beat rate stabilization! In order to avoid jerky increment jumps I am using a Precision Spring Dividers Calipers Compass, that has both metallic sharp tips. 10. Once the beat rate has stabilized proceed to adjusting it by applying the desired difference: from +21 adjust to 21-15= 6, but I prefer one +1 sec/ day so I would set it to +7 sec/day. Make sure you make the adjustment in small increments, then let the beat rate stabilize after each applied increment. This is it! I have seen movements so bad that they just wouldn’t stabilize even after 30-60 minutes, or better said - never. In such cases the adjustment is pretty much based on luck. Using this method I have successfully adjusted two ETA 2836-2 movements (one of them with COSC certificate), one Seiko Caliber 7S36, and other few ones.
Love the detailed writeup from an engineer! It's refreshing to see a systematic take on the whole process where you take care of each and every one of the variables. I especially like the use of calipers. I mean it's not what it's built for but it fits the use case here. If you want to further improve your method, I would suggest, besides magnetization, you watch also for external mechanical shock. Since in most movements, the regulator and stud are mobile, external impact (in extreme case, like dropping the watch) can move them, and that would invalidate all the previous data. Maybe your engineering mind can figure out a way to track that or prevent that ;) But all in all, brilliant work!
@@DIYWatchClub The calipers were just a quick, finer but still a coarse solution. A dedicated fixture and much more accurate could be designed, but there are few problems that should be considered: - after every forward stud nudge there is a backward motion of the stud, probably caused by it's flexibility and/ or friction. This is why a complete stud release is important after avery nudge. Relocating the adjustment device in the same place with precision is very difficult, but achievable. - add to this the flexibility of the adjusting device and the problem is amplified. The problem is even more complex than that and I consider that a team of enthusiasts has better chances for a successful design/ method Regarding monitoring the position of the regulator and of the stud I find this even more difficult. Still these are just challenges that the humans are meant to overcome. There are few obstacles that I couldn't pass even if I am only human. I do believe that we can achieve anything if we put our minds to work and a small team of well motivated people can work miracles. Overall, the final result regarding the daily accuracy is by far satisfying. I was surprised to see 0.2-0.5 sec/day deviation for any mechanical watch. I wonder how accurate the tirbillion ones can get while actually wearing them, or how accurate a mechanical watch can get. Thanks for your appreciation!
@@DIYWatchClub I have added #0 to the method that I presented. It is about letting the lubricants and the hairspring stabilize for one or two months before evaluating and regulating.
Excellent video. I used the tip of a plastic 0.5 mm mechanical pencil with the lead removed rather than the metal tweezers shown in this video to regulate a NH 35 movement with success without a timegrapher. A very slight almost undetected nudge was used to adjust the regulator as described here. Thanks.
I've watched several like this. Yours is best. Clearest explanation and video quality. Thanks. I'm trying my first regulation on an Orient Ray II. It came from the factory at -11 s/d. I don't have a timegrapher. So far I am not doing very well at all. 🙂
This is an excellent question. We'll look at each of the outputs from the timegrapher to see if it's within acceptable range. So, to illustrate the thought process, it goes like this: "is the rate too high or too low?", "is the beat error too high?", "is the amplitude too low?", and most importantly, "are the lines erratic/unstable?". A lot of it depends on the particular movement model, so for example the maximum amplitude for a Sellita SW200 is different from that of a Seiko NH35. But something like a more than +30s/day rate, larger than 1.0ms beat error, or unstable lines are telltale signs of a movement that needs regulation or servicing. Hope that answers your question (and feel free to ask again if you have more questions!)
Thanks for the video. Great info. I managed to adjust my Orient Star to -1s/d on the second attempt. Would have preferred a plus number but too stressful to try again! Overall I’m fairly pleased with it. I used a cocktail stick with a notch i cut in it. Being a novice I found the wood slipped too much without the notch keeping it attached. EDIT I’ve done all my time measurements using on wrist accuracy as well. ie if it gains 15 seconds on the wrist a day I’ll take off that amount on the timegrapher. Of course you have to work out what position you have it at night as well to keep it as accurate as possible. Quite a lot of maths!
Great video, thanks! This is the best tutorial on DIY watch regulation I've seen. I recently purchased a Citizen automatic with the 8200 caliber and the beat error is at around 1.5ms on the timegrapher. I was going to take it to a watchmaker, but now that I've seen your video, and read your guide, I feel confident enough to try to fix the beat error myself. I will post an update once I'm done. Cheers.
Good luck! I didn't manage to cover beat error in this video, but it's simply turning the stud instead of the regulator. The rate will change along when you adjust for beat error, so just fix the rate after you fix the beat error. Make tiny adjustment at a time and you should be fine!
@@DIYWatchClub Success! It took me a few tries, but I got beat error down to 0.1ms and rate to -2s/d. This is with full wind. Much better than 1.5ms error and +15s/d! Thanks again!
I've always been a casio/quartz nerd but now I'm considering an NH35-based watch, and it's nice to know I can regulate it myself. I guess NH35's don't receive "full service" very often due to their low cost. Thanks for a helpful video!
@@DIYWatchClub Right. When it eventually dies I'll replace it with a brand new NH35, and then I'll try to bring the "dead/dying" NH35 back to life. Chance of success: poor. Chance of learning: 100%.
The NH35 movements are dirt cheap workhorses. You can't go wrong with them. I've just finished my 6th. build, it's a fantastic hobby that gives you a real sense of achievement. Build yourself an automatic, you never go back to quartz. 😊
Great video. I am new at this and find it very interesting. A couple of questions. 1) time grapher. Is the a difference in manufactures 2) Where can one go to by some basic totals such as the one you used to open the back to get access to the movement. 3) Are there any courses/schools one can attend to learn more. Thanks, Charles
1. The difference mostly is in terms of build quality. 2. A case back opener is included in our watchmaking kit, as well as other tools needed for watch assembly: shop.diywatch.club/collections/watchmakingkit. 3. I think the said watchmaking kit is a good place to start. It includes a complete tutorial on watch assembly. And you can gain hands on experience with the kit. Or if you want to go deep into this, you can check out WOSTEP.
Wow this was supposed to be the most complicated thing that you can do. I thought you need to be a Master Watch Builder. How do you think you are probably one of the best teachers of anything out there. Can you please explain how cold fusion works and make a video on that........ this was the first video I seen of yours now I need to go through and watch all of your video collection thank you very much keep it up.👍👍
You can also use a reliable stopwatch and do this same function several times within say 5 minutes each and average out the + or - of each adjustment you have made. Do this a few times and you will come very close to a good running watch, depending on how accurate your watch needs to run for your lifestyle. If you are say traveling to the moon and back you may need split-second accuracy, if not this method will work satisfactory.
Some great videos. Have several Invicta's since they seemed a great entry point for automatic watches, and hit a point where I decided to get a winding case so I would have them ready to go. Boy was that an eye opener as they really weren't keeping time as well as I had assumed. So I started looking into improvements. Just regulated one of mine today to ~+1 s/d. Going to give it a few days and check how that fairs in the real world. Had been loosing 2-3 mins a week or so and time grapher (I am using PC with program and special mic stand similar to that used with time grapher) said it was ~-25 s/day so lined up well enough there. Hoping for good results. Second watch was much worse and beat error seemed to be a problem. Unfortunately I managed to catch the hair spring and am looking at option to repair/replace the movement. Tips appreciated, how best to adjust with out risking the spring, How hard is it to replace the hairspring vs movement, reliable source for movements (NH35A) eBay seem to have a lot of Japanese movements all shipping from China (fishy), and tips on the movement swap (swapping face/hands, etc). Already found your video on swapping the rotor (assuming I get an unbranded and want to keep my Invicta yellow rotor).
put the box my seiko srpd was +23 per day. woth a beat error of 1.4. I now have it down to +0 w I th a beat error of 0.1. over 3 months, I calculated I needed it set to +2 per day for better accuracy. given I wear it everyday. Its spot on now and I have left it as is, hacking seconds when needed. thanks for the pro tips.
After regulating without timegrapher, do you let the watch rest or continue wearing it as normal in-between further regulations? Would love an answer here :) Love the video and have subscribed!
Great video , i read the blog about regulating a mechanical watch and you mentioned in it how to regualte the beat error if the value is above 0.6 by a pair of tweezers and by changing the distance between the stud carrier and the regualter , so if you would add a tutorial video on that plz )
Nice video love it very details wish that i can find this one sooner, i tried to adjust the movement via regulator but for some reason i accidently adjust others stud instead now i'm f**k, i try to find any info on the other stud adjustment so any chance that can i undo my mistake?
It really depends on the size of your watch collection, your need for accuracy, and how much you like to tinker with watches. For many people, it's a great investment that enables you to do much more with your watches
Ah, I wish I'd seen your video sooner. I'd seen others, all cautioning re: hairspring but they were using larger shifts of the regulator with a toothpick. I was disappointed with what I perceived as inaccuracy (12 s/d too fast) in my Orient Ray II so I got a time grapher, popped off the back and proceeded to overcorrect first one way, then the other and ended up nudging the beat error.too. I finally got it to + 17s/d --near where I started but worse -- and then slipped. The hairspring stopped dead, never to run again. Sigh. It's became something of a Zen lesson; I have some other watches "in spec" but less than I used to want and now I enjoy the variety!
Hey! Loved the video, watched some others and this one made me subscribe. Such good content! I have a small question: Will a time grapher app on my phone do the trick? Would love to know this so that I can do it myself! Thanks a lot
You mean METAS. Yeah it'll be interesting to see whether METAS will catch on and become an industry standard, but right now it simply looks like an attempt by Omega to claim superiority over other brands. On the other hand, COSC is definitely outdated and it sorely needs an update
Thank you very much for this great video. I would like to know more about the balance wheel however I don't find any video from your chanel regarding this issue. I am trying to regulate a Longines L847. 4 however the stud moves while I move the regulation pin.
You adjusted the rate with the watch dial facing down. Is this the ideal position to regulate the watch?, as most of the time you have dial facing up or 12 position slightly down when on wrist.
Thanks for this video. I might be looking to attempt this on a Seiko 8L35B movement. There appears to be a screw next for the +/- symbol which some say is easier to use to regulate with. Have you come across this before and should I just stick to the regulator lever as you did? Also what tool is that you're using to get the watch case back off/on? Thanks
Fascinating! I haven't tried regulating a watch yet and appreciated the full and clear explaination. As a Third option, have you tried any of the free Watch Accuracy apps (such as Toolwatch). If so, how do you rate their performance/accurcay vs a Timegrapher?
"Danke für dieses sehr interessante Video" und deren "spezifische Erklärungen, zu mechanischen Uhrwerken". Da ich selber ein leidenschaftlicher Uhrensammler bin & viele mechanische Uhren in meiner Sammlung sind welche mal nachjustiert gehören, werde ich mir unbedingt eine "Zeitwaage & Entmagnetisierer" anschaffen. Die meisten Kaliber meiner Uhren haben ein ETA / Selitta oder Seiko NH35 Uhrwerk, vermutlich gut einstellbar. LG. Richard
This was great, thank you. I have a Seiko with an 8L35 movement, they are not regulated from the factory. Mine is running about +1 min per week, I can live with this but wonder how much better it could be if I took it to be professionally regulated?
Hi, thanks for the great videos. I really would like to try this, but I would like to see a Miyota 9015 kit. Are there plans for one? Or can a 9015 fit in the same case as the 8315?
That was very helpful for the beginners for the mechanical watches like me and I have a question. I am facing an issue that I couldn't change the rate whether I adjusted the regulator through + or - side after getting my watch from maintenance. My watch goes faster almost 12 minues per day. Do you have any idea why this could be happened and how can it be solved? Thank you very much for the answers in advance.
I would also suggest to use app like timegrapher x and earphone mic if using without a timegrapher. Not as accurate as physical timegrapher but I managed to get mine to +1s/day easily with those rather than adjusting it blindly.
Hello, great video! I wanted to ask how much can you regulate a watch? Mine is running too fast and the regulation arm is already at edge of the (-) mark.. Though I could still regulate it more before it hits the beat adjustment lever.. Should I??
It would be good to check if the beat error is too high as well. I didn't manage to cover it in this video, but beat error adjustment affects the rate too
Then you just record the time down to seconds. So say it's 9pm on the reference clock and it's 9pm past 12 seconds on your watch. You take that number and note the difference in seconds next day
First time I've seen blued screws in an NH35. Where did the blued screws come from? Did you blue them yourself or just get them from a different movement?
I’ve been wanting to take the case back off my watch to look at the movement. There is nothing wrong with doing this is there? If it is okay what precautions should I take?
I’m here because I just bought my first automatic watch and I dropped it. 😞 It seemed to be running +1 second a day, now it’s closer to +10 seconds a day. Might try this, thanks for the video.
Hi for 41 hours saving energy about Seiko prospec series , how much we should move our watch so that after 41 h the wach remain accurate event we we didn't used them? Thank a lot to answering
There are tons of videos on this theme. BUT. You do it in a way that everyone can understand it. I thank you for your work and effort to share your knowledge with us.
Thank you for your kind words! That's our goal: to bring watchmaking to the public. Glad you enjoyed it!
I guess it's pretty off topic but does anybody know a good place to watch new series online?
I lucked out and found this one first!
Now I feel more confident in buying a time grapher. No one had explained how this little gizmo worked as clearly as you did, thank you.
So far this is the only video makes me understand what exactly a timegrapher can do. Subscribed.
Glad to hear that! And thanks for the sub!
Agreed. I assume you had to tell it which movement you're measuring, but that has never been confirmed in any of the videos I've watched prior.
Although I’m fairly new to watches, I have managed to regulate a few on my NH35A movements down to +2 to +3 seconds a day. I initially ruined 2 Invicta watches while I was regulating them so it occurred to me that any future regulating it might be safer to hack the movement while adjusting the regulator and restart the watch afterward which works nicely. As I cannot justify a timegrapher, I use your 2nd method by using the world clock on my iPad. It might be worth noting that after regulating a watch, if after 2 or 3 hours it is running obviously fast or slow, there’s no need to wait the full 24 hours to adjust the regulator again, just do it and reset the time and fine tune it from there. Sometimes when regulating a watch, it may not be advisable to try to get it too accurate, such as +0 seconds per day but try for about +5 seconds per day. From experience I’ve found that if you regulate a watch dial up, it might run to almost perfect time over 24 hours but when you wear the watch, it’s now crown down and as watches run differently in various positions, it might slow down and run at -3 or -4 seconds per day. If the watch is regulated to +5 seconds per day and wearing it crown down causes it to lose 3 or 4 seconds per day, the watch will be running at +1 or +2 seconds per day, which is perfect.
Thank you for sharing your experience! It's true that it's usually good to err on the positive side a little bit. The non dial up positions can and usually run slower due to the addition of extra friction. With that in mind, a small plus in dial up usually ends up a near zero.
I just wish I had ruined only two. Thanks
Just followed your advice and turns out it is true! I can get nearly dead on accurate +- 1s per day thanks to you sir
Perfect tutorial: precise, concise, knowledgeable, beautifully shot. Subscribed. Thank you!
This is the best NH35 regulating video I've seen. Clear & Concise. thank you
Thank you for your kind comment!
Thanks for the tutorial,
I did not have a time grapher so i regulated the watch using the method you showed, I managed after approximately 7 attempts to get an accuracy on my Seiko NH35A movement to within less than a second a day. After 6 days of daily wear it is still within one second. Having adjusted it to real word wearing I am extremely happy. I have ordered a thrid party microphone to use with an open source time Grapher software for my PC. I think based on my experience I'll use the time grapher software to adjust it to say within 1 second a day and then wear it continuously for a week and make any adjustments necessary after observing real world /life style usage. Thanks once again i found this very useful.
Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music.
I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
You got a new subscriber for the simple, professional, and concise way you deliver the intended information. I’ll watch your other videos for the lifting angle explanation, if you have one. You gave a list but understanding the principle makes it easier to understand the readings and results. Thank you very much!
I found this tutorial really easy to follow and comprehend. Other tutorials I have watched, they make them so complicated. Thanks for sharing.
Very informative. I just use the manual method you show at the end, with real life usage rather then crown positions etc, and getting totally acceptable results on my two sub £300 automatics. I'm getting +4 and +8 on the pair, so no adjustments needed at the moment, and I just set them a minute slow each month.
Great to hear you're getting good results out of it!
Beautifully narrated - just loved it
Big thanks for including the lift angles in the description, just for blokes who do not know it about their watches yet.
I had my Seiko 5 Caliber 6309 serviced very recently. When I got it back after service, I tested its accuracy on the Watch Accuracy Meter app. It showed a rate of -5s/d. I was quite a bit worried whether I had to get it re-checked but it kept time pretty much accurately despite being a 43 yr old machine. This video made me realize that the accuracy shown in the timegrapher indeed is a bit deviated from the accuracy during day-to-day activities.
You've been a great help.
I'll give it a try today.
without a Timegrapher.
You're welcome, good luck!
C'est la première fois de ma vie que une vidéo me montre la régulation d'une montre mécanique vraiment merci
Génial! Voici mon première commentaire
en français! Merci beaucoup!
Thank you for making the video so user friendly and understandable !
Appreciate it!
Just opened this Chanel for myself, and it’s truly Gem.
Great explanation and video quality !! Everything is on point! Would definitely subscribe!
Very well done indeed! Clear explanations, just enough detail to be interesting and educational without going over or under the target audience. I’ll be watching your other videos. I’m going to take a crack at regulating one of my NH35A’s.
Thank you for your kind comment! And good luck with your regulation!
The reason you dont get the same Time Deviation in real life as on the time grapher is because:
1. You measure the Rate in only one position of the watch.
2. The rate you measure is the rate when the watch is fully wound and the watch usually will get a faster rate when the watch gets unwound during the day/night.
I usually regulate my watches to about a couple of -sec/day when the watch is fully wound which makes the watch go to about a couple of +s/day during the night when the watch is on my desk. Sometimes it takes some days before the watch gets to + in the night and - during the day but that keeps my watches close to 0s/day.
What you said is absolutely correct. I did not discuss positional adjustment and isochronism in this video because I want this video to be an beginner's introduction to regulation, and those two topics are more than enough an entire separate video. If I included them in this video, it could be half an hour long!
On the real life performance, that's where taking a statistical approach - taking the average - is useful. I don't have to account for whether it's + or - in the day or at night. If on average it's close to 0s/day it's good enough for me. But personally I still sometimes prefer an overall + since being early isn't something I need to worry about.
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@@DIYWatchClub That is all very true. In addition, it's much quicker to re-sync a slightly fast watch to Naval Observatory time than a slow one! I enjoyed your very concise video and hope to see it expanded upon in the future. For instance, I have a timegrapher, and my Seiko Alpinist that I purchased in 2016 was starting to show a weak amplitude and slow rate in the vertical positions (crown up and down) in the 170s-180s,/-30s/day while horizontal dial up and down were 220-230/0s/day. I suspect it needs an overhaul and lubrication since it has never had one since I purchased it, so that is my intent. But there are precious few videos out there that discuss the warning signs that can be seen with a timegrapher when a movement requires maintenance. Again, thank you for your exceptional video. The photography was very clear and close-in.
@@life-longpatriot8258 Thank you for the compliment. Appreciate it! 6 years, it's probably time for a servicing. Lubrication probably dried up.
@@DIYWatchClub I agree, and I'm sending it to Seiko for an overhaul.
Thanks! It was helpful. I regulated a NH35A mechanism but it was not that easy! Very "tiny-tiny" movement/adjustment on the regulator's lever resulted in big deviation 40+/- secs!!. I was initially +23 sec' on small movement turned it to -18 sec/day or worse -40'' then trying the apposite +45''. I tried may times with very tiny adjustments to archive theoretical +3 sec/day (need to verify it now). I used an android app that uses mobile mic to measure tics as a "Timegrapher" with quite good accuracy (real measurement is close to the readings of the app). The app is called "Watch Accuracy Meter" and worded fine for me.
Really enjoyed this video! You explained things so concisely that I now want to keep my watches more closely regulated. Thanks for sharing this with me, you've earned a subscriber.
I learned a lot from this video, thank you. My watches ALWAYS run slower on wrist than on the timegrapher, so I adjust accordingly.
Really good, useful and well explained video. many thanks
Thank you for your kind comment!
Great 👍 We would like to know more about the standards of regulating a watch in different conditions and multiple positions
The COSC standards would be a good thing to add here! Thank you!
Great work on the video. I really like the explanation at 1:33 of the regulator's effect on the hair spring. Just subscribed and hope that you come out with some more quality content. You could an entire video on each of the parameters shown on the timegrapher and how they relate to the function of the watch. I'd watch.
Thanks for the sub! I can tell you that I do have a video on the exact subject you mentioned in the pipeline. But I'm slooowly getting to it. So stay tuned!
10 days ago, I bought a new watch with Seiko NH34 movement through internet shopping. I check and record the change and realize that it runs 15 seconds faster daily rather steadily. If I understand correctly, the watch is still within acceptable range that I can't send the watch back to the manufacturer for service or adjustment. If I do so, I have to bear the shipping cost since it is not defective. Thank you for your video - it is great and so informative.
Boss your totorial video was very very useful for me and now I can understand timegrapher reading thanks
Delighted to support you! =)
I have designed a hybrid method for adjusting the beat rate for a watch and I managed to achieve a level of precision of 0.2 sec/day. I am an engineer but not in this particular field of timekeeping. My method combines the timegrapher with a daily evaluation against a reference.
First I wanted to identify the variables of this problem, or the things that affects the movement and the beat rate. Here is the short list:
- temperature variation (season, occupation or job type). The beat rate is faster in cold than in warm due to the contraction/ dilatation of the hairspring. I prefer evaluating and adjusting a movement during the summer (July or August)
- magnetization - this is the worst enemy of your watch, including shocks and aggressive vibrations
- the average position of the watch (the beat rate is different from one position to another, especially for cheap movements: dial up or down, crown up or down)
- winding level or the activity level of the owner. Every owner has a different lifestyle therefore the beat rate of the same watch will change for different owners.
My reasoning:
An accurate quick adjustment can never account for all variables so I thought: what if I include these variables in a global long term evaluation? Since I do not belong to this specific branch, I can take criticism easily.
Here is the method:
0. In order for the mechanism to run in a stabilized manner, the watch must run for at least one month, preferable two months, before making any evaluation or beat adjustment. It takes a while for the lubricants and for the hair spring to achieve stability. Initially the lubricants are more viscous and the hairspring is less flexible. In time the lubricants become more fluid and the hairspring becomes more elastic, so the beat rate has a decreasing tendency. Any attempt to evaluate or to regulate the movement will be invalidated later, so be patient. You could use a winder, but the regular watch winders are excessively winding the movement even at their lowest setting. Just ware the watch during this time an you can make an informative evaluation that should not be used for the final regulation.
1. First evaluate the magnetization level of the entire watch, including the bracelet (use a compass on top of the watch and slowly rotate the watch on the horizontal plane while watching any deviation of the compass. Do not rush it. I consider maximum 4° deviation as acceptable)
2. Demagnetize the entire watch, including the bracelet. Any magnetization will invalidate the measurements, or will discontinue the evaluation. If magnetization occurs just demagnetize the watch and start over, but validate the records while the watch was not magnetized.
3. Synchronize the watch with a reference that you will use over and over (cellphone, radio station - note that there is an offset between analog and digital radio receivers, usually the analog ones are quicker since they are not processing the radio signal)
4. Log the deviation into an Excel spreadsheet
5. Wear the watch normally
6. Before every daily evaluation check the watch for magnetization so you can validate your measurement. There is no problem if you skip days, but make sure that you check the watch for magnetization.
7. Make the evaluation/ record roughly at the same time during the day. Some movement complications alter the beat rate at certain moments (21:00-24:00 interval for day-date complications decreases the beat rate, then it accelerates).
8. After at least seven days (the longer, the better - even two months if magnetization doesn’t occur) calculate the average daily deviation. Let’s say +15 sec/day.
9. Put the watch on the timegrapher with the movement exposed, ready for adjustment and let the beat rate stabilize. You will notice that the beat rate will increase as the temperature of the watch cools to the room temperature, let’s say from +15 to +21 sec/day (the cheaper the movement, the greater the difference). Make sure that dust won’t make its way into the movement during beat rate stabilization!
In order to avoid jerky increment jumps I am using a Precision Spring Dividers Calipers Compass, that has both metallic sharp tips.
10. Once the beat rate has stabilized proceed to adjusting it by applying the desired difference: from +21 adjust to 21-15= 6, but I prefer one +1 sec/ day so I would set it to +7 sec/day. Make sure you make the adjustment in small increments, then let the beat rate stabilize after each applied increment.
This is it!
I have seen movements so bad that they just wouldn’t stabilize even after 30-60 minutes, or better said - never. In such cases the adjustment is pretty much based on luck.
Using this method I have successfully adjusted two ETA 2836-2 movements (one of them with COSC certificate), one Seiko Caliber 7S36, and other few ones.
Love the detailed writeup from an engineer! It's refreshing to see a systematic take on the whole process where you take care of each and every one of the variables. I especially like the use of calipers. I mean it's not what it's built for but it fits the use case here.
If you want to further improve your method, I would suggest, besides magnetization, you watch also for external mechanical shock. Since in most movements, the regulator and stud are mobile, external impact (in extreme case, like dropping the watch) can move them, and that would invalidate all the previous data. Maybe your engineering mind can figure out a way to track that or prevent that ;) But all in all, brilliant work!
@@DIYWatchClub The calipers were just a quick, finer but still a coarse solution. A dedicated fixture and much more accurate could be designed, but there are few problems that should be considered:
- after every forward stud nudge there is a backward motion of the stud, probably caused by it's flexibility and/ or friction. This is why a complete stud release is important after avery nudge. Relocating the adjustment device in the same place with precision is very difficult, but achievable.
- add to this the flexibility of the adjusting device and the problem is amplified.
The problem is even more complex than that and I consider that a team of enthusiasts has better chances for a successful design/ method
Regarding monitoring the position of the regulator and of the stud I find this even more difficult.
Still these are just challenges that the humans are meant to overcome.
There are few obstacles that I couldn't pass even if I am only human. I do believe that we can achieve anything if we put our minds to work and a small team of well motivated people can work miracles.
Overall, the final result regarding the daily accuracy is by far satisfying. I was surprised to see 0.2-0.5 sec/day deviation for any mechanical watch.
I wonder how accurate the tirbillion ones can get while actually wearing them, or how accurate a mechanical watch can get.
Thanks for your appreciation!
@@DIYWatchClub I have added #0 to the method that I presented.
It is about letting the lubricants and the hairspring stabilize for one or two months before evaluating and regulating.
these videos are amazing and super helpful makes me want to get into watch making as a hobby
Very well done. Thanks for all of your contributions to the watch collecting community
Thank you for your kind comment!
Excellent video. I used the tip of a plastic 0.5 mm mechanical pencil with the lead removed rather than the metal tweezers shown in this video to regulate a NH 35 movement with success without a timegrapher. A very slight almost undetected nudge was used to adjust the regulator as described here. Thanks.
Whatever works, works. Glad this helps
Fabulous explanation! Especially the part without a Time Grapher.
Glad it was helpful!
Great Video!First of all explained in detail.Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video. Exactly what you need to know without the garbage in between.
Glad it was helpful!
I've watched several like this. Yours is best. Clearest explanation and video quality. Thanks. I'm trying my first regulation on an Orient Ray II. It came from the factory at -11 s/d. I don't have a timegrapher. So far I am not doing very well at all. 🙂
Without a timegrapher it can be difficult to regulate. Best to be patient and slowly adjust it. Good luck!
Great info thanks for posting, I would like to know how you will be able to tell that the watch needs servicing from the time Grapher
This is an excellent question. We'll look at each of the outputs from the timegrapher to see if it's within acceptable range. So, to illustrate the thought process, it goes like this: "is the rate too high or too low?", "is the beat error too high?", "is the amplitude too low?", and most importantly, "are the lines erratic/unstable?". A lot of it depends on the particular movement model, so for example the maximum amplitude for a Sellita SW200 is different from that of a Seiko NH35. But something like a more than +30s/day rate, larger than 1.0ms beat error, or unstable lines are telltale signs of a movement that needs regulation or servicing. Hope that answers your question (and feel free to ask again if you have more questions!)
Great, great video. So concise. I'll be regulating my fortis cosmonaut. Thanks 👍
Thanks for this video! Helped me a ton
Thanks for the video. Great info. I managed to adjust my Orient Star to -1s/d on the second attempt. Would have preferred a plus number but too stressful to try again! Overall I’m fairly pleased with it. I used a cocktail stick with a notch i cut in it. Being a novice I found the wood slipped too much without the notch keeping it attached.
EDIT I’ve done all my time measurements using on wrist accuracy as well. ie if it gains 15 seconds on the wrist a day I’ll take off that amount on the timegrapher. Of course you have to work out what position you have it at night as well to keep it as accurate as possible. Quite a lot of maths!
Good job!
Great video, excellent introduction to watch regulation!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks! This is the best tutorial on DIY watch regulation I've seen. I recently purchased a Citizen automatic with the 8200 caliber and the beat error is at around 1.5ms on the timegrapher. I was going to take it to a watchmaker, but now that I've seen your video, and read your guide, I feel confident enough to try to fix the beat error myself. I will post an update once I'm done. Cheers.
Good luck! I didn't manage to cover beat error in this video, but it's simply turning the stud instead of the regulator. The rate will change along when you adjust for beat error, so just fix the rate after you fix the beat error. Make tiny adjustment at a time and you should be fine!
@@DIYWatchClub Success! It took me a few tries, but I got beat error down to 0.1ms and rate to -2s/d. This is with full wind. Much better than 1.5ms error and +15s/d!
Thanks again!
@@gaius_marius That's great to hear!
man i have to thank you so so much for this great video!! keep on your good work
Thank you for your support! Please consider subscribing to support our work!
beat error explanation needed big bro !!
I've always been a casio/quartz nerd but now I'm considering an NH35-based watch, and it's nice to know I can regulate it myself. I guess NH35's don't receive "full service" very often due to their low cost. Thanks for a helpful video!
And that low cost makes it perfect for your own tinkering!
@@DIYWatchClub Right. When it eventually dies I'll replace it with a brand new NH35, and then I'll try to bring the "dead/dying" NH35 back to life. Chance of success: poor. Chance of learning: 100%.
The NH35 movements are dirt cheap workhorses. You can't go wrong with them. I've just finished my 6th. build, it's a fantastic hobby that gives you a real sense of achievement. Build yourself an automatic, you never go back to quartz. 😊
That was great! Thank you for this video, really helpful!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent and very informative video. Bravo and thanks...!!!
You are welcome!
Great video. I am new at this and find it very interesting.
A couple of questions.
1) time grapher.
Is the a difference in manufactures
2) Where can one go to by some basic totals such as the one you used to open the back to get access to the movement.
3) Are there any courses/schools one can attend to learn more.
Thanks,
Charles
1. The difference mostly is in terms of build quality. 2. A case back opener is included in our watchmaking kit, as well as other tools needed for watch assembly: shop.diywatch.club/collections/watchmakingkit. 3. I think the said watchmaking kit is a good place to start. It includes a complete tutorial on watch assembly. And you can gain hands on experience with the kit. Or if you want to go deep into this, you can check out WOSTEP.
I love your content as well as your products 👍
Wow this was supposed to be the most complicated thing that you can do. I thought you need to be a Master Watch Builder. How do you think you are probably one of the best teachers of anything out there. Can you please explain how cold fusion works and make a video on that........ this was the first video I seen of yours now I need to go through and watch all of your video collection thank you very much keep it up.👍👍
You can also use a reliable stopwatch and do this same function several times within say 5 minutes each and average out the + or - of each adjustment you have made. Do this a few times and you will come very close to a good running watch, depending on how accurate your watch needs to run for your lifestyle. If you are say traveling to the moon and back you may need split-second accuracy, if not this method will work satisfactory.
Thanks, good video, very well presented. Keep up the good work.
Excellent. Thank you.
Great job hello from Puerto Rico
Hello/hola!
Great video. I have a nh 35 watch that loses about 20 seconds a week so 2-3 seconds a day using real life.
That's pretty good accuracy for a mechanical movement!
Some great videos. Have several Invicta's since they seemed a great entry point for automatic watches, and hit a point where I decided to get a winding case so I would have them ready to go. Boy was that an eye opener as they really weren't keeping time as well as I had assumed. So I started looking into improvements. Just regulated one of mine today to ~+1 s/d. Going to give it a few days and check how that fairs in the real world. Had been loosing 2-3 mins a week or so and time grapher (I am using PC with program and special mic stand similar to that used with time grapher) said it was ~-25 s/day so lined up well enough there. Hoping for good results. Second watch was much worse and beat error seemed to be a problem. Unfortunately I managed to catch the hair spring and am looking at option to repair/replace the movement. Tips appreciated, how best to adjust with out risking the spring, How hard is it to replace the hairspring vs movement, reliable source for movements (NH35A) eBay seem to have a lot of Japanese movements all shipping from China (fishy), and tips on the movement swap (swapping face/hands, etc). Already found your video on swapping the rotor (assuming I get an unbranded and want to keep my Invicta yellow rotor).
The magnitism part was great to see, i have a seiko 4r36a that gains hour a day, hope it is just magnitized and not totallybroken
This video craps on everything else! Thank you!
awesome video thank you for the time and effort you took to make it!
put the box my seiko srpd was +23 per day. woth a beat error of 1.4. I now have it down to +0 w I th a beat error of 0.1. over 3 months, I calculated I needed it set to +2 per day for better accuracy. given I wear it everyday. Its spot on now and I have left it as is, hacking seconds when needed. thanks for the pro tips.
After regulating without timegrapher, do you let the watch rest or continue wearing it as normal in-between further regulations? Would love an answer here :) Love the video and have subscribed!
Straight to the wrist it is! And thanks for the subs!
Great video , i read the blog about regulating a mechanical watch and you mentioned in it how to regualte the beat error if the value is above 0.6 by a pair of tweezers and by changing the distance between the stud carrier and the regualter , so if you would add a tutorial video on that plz )
I hear you loud and clear! In fact the tutorial video for beat error is already in production, so subscribe and stay tuned))
Nice video love it very details wish that i can find this one sooner, i tried to adjust the movement via regulator but for some reason i accidently adjust others stud instead now i'm f**k, i try to find any info on the other stud adjustment so any chance that can i undo my mistake?
Great stuff, thank you, I think I can do that, timegraphers are a tad pricey for those who are not watchmakers.
It really depends on the size of your watch collection, your need for accuracy, and how much you like to tinker with watches. For many people, it's a great investment that enables you to do much more with your watches
@@DIYWatchClub
I totally agree, after posting my comment I invested in a timegrapher and already paying itself off, thanks
@@secretariat-13 Have fun with it!
you can just use an app for the smartphone instead
excellent govna!
When will you be doing the video about beat error adjustment? Thanks
Ah, I wish I'd seen your video sooner. I'd seen others, all cautioning re: hairspring but they were using larger shifts of the regulator with a toothpick. I was disappointed with what I perceived as inaccuracy (12 s/d too fast) in my Orient Ray II so I got a time grapher, popped off the back and proceeded to overcorrect first one way, then the other and ended up nudging the beat error.too. I finally got it to + 17s/d --near where I started but worse -- and then slipped. The hairspring stopped dead, never to run again. Sigh. It's became something of a Zen lesson; I have some other watches "in spec" but less than I used to want and now I enjoy the variety!
Good presentation 😊
Hey! Loved the video, watched some others and this one made me subscribe. Such good content! I have a small question: Will a time grapher app on my phone do the trick? Would love to know this so that I can do it myself! Thanks a lot
It does work (in principle) but the phone microphone picks up a lot of noise so you might have less stable /reliable reading
Any chance you'll do the beat error correction video soon?
COSC might be obsolete. Now the META or MET comes into play. Marketing terms of the industry really. Great tutorial.
You mean METAS. Yeah it'll be interesting to see whether METAS will catch on and become an industry standard, but right now it simply looks like an attempt by Omega to claim superiority over other brands. On the other hand, COSC is definitely outdated and it sorely needs an update
Thank you very much for this great video. I would like to know more about the balance wheel however I don't find any video from your chanel regarding this issue. I am trying to regulate a Longines L847. 4 however the stud moves while I move the regulation pin.
You adjusted the rate with the watch dial facing down. Is this the ideal position to regulate the watch?, as most of the time you have dial facing up or 12 position slightly down when on wrist.
is this a permanent fix or does it begin to wear off and revert back to its original accuracy? thank you for the great content!
現在機械錶振頻可以用手機的Clock Tuner量測，不過誤差還是比標準測錶儀器大(容易受環境影響)，而且不能是自帶永久磁鐵的手機，否則測值都還沒量到，手錶先受磁了，所以還是要每日觀察誤差值才能決定要條快或調慢。
偏振嚴重的話也會看到測點是有規則的一高一低，但是調偏振也會影響游絲有效長度，所以偏振應該要先調，之後才是調快慢針。
Thanks for this video. I might be looking to attempt this on a Seiko 8L35B movement. There appears to be a screw next for the +/- symbol which some say is easier to use to regulate with. Have you come across this before and should I just stick to the regulator lever as you did? Also what tool is that you're using to get the watch case back off/on? Thanks
Great information! Many thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Fascinating! I haven't tried regulating a watch yet and appreciated the full and clear explaination. As a Third option, have you tried any of the free Watch Accuracy apps (such as Toolwatch). If so, how do you rate their performance/accurcay vs a Timegrapher?
Worse, obviously, but still just fine for DIY regulation. Could get my ETA 2893-2 down from -11s to -3s that way.
Hi good video thanks, but where's the video on beat error adjustment?
"Danke für dieses sehr interessante Video" und deren "spezifische Erklärungen, zu mechanischen Uhrwerken".
Da ich selber ein leidenschaftlicher Uhrensammler bin & viele mechanische Uhren in meiner Sammlung sind
welche mal nachjustiert gehören, werde ich mir unbedingt eine "Zeitwaage & Entmagnetisierer" anschaffen.
Die meisten Kaliber meiner Uhren haben ein ETA / Selitta oder Seiko NH35 Uhrwerk, vermutlich gut einstellbar.
LG. Richard
This was great, thank you. I have a Seiko with an 8L35 movement, they are not regulated from the factory. Mine is running about +1 min per week, I can live with this but wonder how much better it could be if I took it to be professionally regulated?
+1 min per week rounds up to around +8 sec per day. For mechanical movements, this is pretty good accuracy.
Hi, thanks for the great videos. I really would like to try this, but I would like to see a Miyota 9015 kit. Are there plans for one? Or can a 9015 fit in the same case as the 8315?
Good video. Thanks 👍
Glad you liked it!
That was very helpful for the beginners for the mechanical watches like me and I have a question. I am facing an issue that I couldn't change the rate whether I adjusted the regulator through + or - side after getting my watch from maintenance. My watch goes faster almost 12 minues per day. Do you have any idea why this could be happened and how can it be solved? Thank you very much for the answers in advance.
This is a common sign of magnetism. We have a video on it, go check it out: ua-cam.com/video/DBxeIRnXyXQ/v-deo.html
Is phone app telegrapher good enough?
Brilliant! Thanks.
Glad you liked it!
I would also suggest to use app like timegrapher x and earphone mic if using without a timegrapher. Not as accurate as physical timegrapher but I managed to get mine to +1s/day easily with those rather than adjusting it blindly.
Hello, great video!
I wanted to ask how much can you regulate a watch? Mine is running too fast and the regulation arm is already at edge of the (-) mark.. Though I could still regulate it more before it hits the beat adjustment lever.. Should I??
It would be good to check if the beat error is too high as well. I didn't manage to cover it in this video, but beat error adjustment affects the rate too
@@DIYWatchClub Great, thank you🤙
If your watch is not hackable, how would I set it to the correct time?
Then you just record the time down to seconds. So say it's 9pm on the reference clock and it's 9pm past 12 seconds on your watch. You take that number and note the difference in seconds next day
Thanks for this bro ❤
Delighted that you found it enjoyable!
First time I've seen blued screws in an NH35. Where did the blued screws come from? Did you blue them yourself or just get them from a different movement?
Good catch! We blued the screws ourselves, and we're preparing a screw bluing tutorial very soon. Subscribe and stay tuned!
@@DIYWatchClub This is an awesome channel. Glad I came across it.
@@DIYWatchClub Nice! That's what I was hoping to hear. I look forward to the video.
I’ve been wanting to take the case back off my watch to look at the movement. There is nothing wrong with doing this is there? If it is okay what precautions should I take?
Very helpful thanks
By removing the back too regulate watch are you not breaking the seal for water-resistance ??
What is the guide on removing back and effect on water resistance?
Great video!!!
I’m here because I just bought my first automatic watch and I dropped it. 😞
It seemed to be running +1 second a day, now it’s closer to +10 seconds a day. Might try this, thanks for the video.
Hi for 41 hours saving energy about Seiko prospec series , how much we should move our watch so that after 41 h the wach remain accurate event we we didn't used them? Thank a lot to answering
What is the model number of the case back removal tool you're using?