2:46, I own Seiko SPB053 with 6R15 movement. It is a slightly bigger watch than Seiko SPB143 with a narrow bezel with a unique colour that sometimes appears to be blue and sometimes green, depending on the light. It is for me one of the most beautiful divers watches ever made. It is a slightly bigger watch than Seiko SPB143. It is running exactly +4 seconds every day. I'm extremely disgusted with Seiko and even more disgusted with myself for believing in Seiko when watching this video. Where is the watch case made? Seiko, is it made in Japan or is it China? The outside is engraving Japan and the inside of the watch cover is engraved, China case and most people will never see the inner side of the watch case cover except the watchmaker. I know, it doesn't say made in Japan but why is there Japan? What else is true about Seiko products? So my watch is most likely made in China and I don't admire it anymore from this moment. How much do we have to spend to get a Japanese watch? I don't believe anymore that even Marine Master is made in Japan or even one of those limited and expensive 1965 "62 MAS" Re-Creation watches I always hoped to own one day. I don't believe that Grand Seiko watches are created and made by "artisans" in some studio looking at mountains, lakes and birch wood outside of the studio. My f. ass! All those watches are made by slave labour in some shit holes factories in China and run by commies. I will never buy Seiko again!
You know, I was unpleasantly surprised when I saw that too. I currently own SBP147, SPB213, SPB105 that all state "Japan" on the dial, "Japan" on the case back, and even on the Seiko site, and all the reviews! I'm tempted to purchase a watch case opener off Amazon and open all mine up to take a look! I wonder if it's a similar thing like SNAP-ON had throughout all last decade where they were still branding a lot of their tools "MADE IN USA", when they were really "Assembled In USA With Globally Sourced Parts". They finally got called out on it and now all their handled ratchets, and many other tools, don't say anything about USA stamped on them anymore. Because all their handles and the other parts are made in China! 😡
@@4by_yotaguy373 I can't believe this coincidence. When I wrote the comment, I also wanted to mention Snap-on tools but I thought most people who are interested in watches don't care about mechanical tools and I didn't want to complicate my comment even more. Last few years I tend to buy mostly Snap-on and Proto wrenches, sockets, and ratchets. When I'm willing to pay for one little wrench as much money that could get me more than the whole set of Chinese-made knockoff wrenches in my local auto store, of course, I would be pissed off if I found out they are Chinese made. I paid over 1000 U.S. Dollars for my last American-made torque wrench. I could've bought a Chinese torque wrench for 300 Dollars. People always say, the Chinese now make quality stuff or they say, everybody makes stuff in China now. That's what it is.
I would like to have seen how much you movement you made for each adjustment with a before and after if we can’t easily see real time. Very informative video.
I've tried this adjustment and the amount of movement is practically imperceptible. I've seen that some of the higher-end movements have an adjustment screw which gives you much more control.
@@bmw128racer Well Orient is under the Epson umbrella same as Seiko but you are correct most asian movements do not have screw type micro adjustment unless they are copies of swiss movements mostly ETA 2824 vs PT5000
Thank you for this video. My Seiko was with more than 15 minutes ahead per day. Following the instructions from this video I did the adjustment about 4 times. After 5 days from the last adjustment I saw a few small changes. Now I have 2 or 3 seconds plus OR minus in 24 hours. For me it is excellent.
Excellent explanation. Simple but sound. I put my SPB239 on a timegrapher today, adjusted the beat error and regulated the time. The six positions were extremely different, ranging from -15 to -54 seconds. On average, the watch was at over minus 30 seconds. I saw that the regulator pin was almost completely at the minus setting. I wonder who assembles those watches and regulates them to fully minus, resulting in an extremely bad accuracy. It took me over an hour to fix the problem, now it's on my wrist and we'll see in a few days if I have to re-adjust it again, as the six positions were between +7 and -23.... Thanks again for sharing!
Hi thanks for posting this. My SPB143 had a 1.7 ms beat error and was 30 s slow and now it has a 0.2ms beat error and is 3 s fast so happy now with that. It was probably stored in some warehouse for too long as it didn't even come in the right box!
I had this same problem with my new padi turtle it ran far to slow, my vintage seiko divers keep better time. Seiko do need to improve there regulating out of the factory. Great tutorial Dimitri. Keep well from New Zealand.
Thanks Bruce, "Seiko do need to improve there regulating out of the factory" indeed! I sell new seiko timepieces in my store, and the customer came back after a week with the complaint that the Seiko SPB143J1 timepiece was so behind. Fortunately I was able to rectify this quickly, but this is not a good advertisement for Seiko...
Seiko has a great history and has always been good, but I also have questions about the new generation of Seiko timepieces, especially the more expensive models like this Seiko Prospex SPB143J1. Whether this is still good, value for money, I don't think so.. A Seiko 5, value for money, yes! What do you guys think?
I agree 100%. The amount of money that Seiko is charging for these watches is ridiculous. The quality (and quality control) simply isn't there for $1,000+, and the movements leave a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy right out of the box. Sad that Seiko has lost its way so much since the 1960s-1970s.
Hamilton and Tissot are now the best bang for buck name watch brands. ETA 2824 and SW-220 are better than Seiko's 6R-series and on par with their 8L-series movements in regards to beat frequency and accuracy . Plus, Seiko bracelets and clasps are trash. However, I do like Seiko's sun dials, spring bars, and dial hands.
Very nicely explained! I feel like I totally get it after watching this. One question: do you run the movement through the various positions after regulation? I imagine there's a law of averages involved in getting this right.
As a mechanical contractor I can appreciate the beauty of the movements, And I can appreciate the beauty of your craftsmanship. Now call me insane but I had bought some pocket watches moebius oils and greases. To start working on watches as a hobby. You have put the bug in me LOL. Just spent an obscene amount of money screwdrivers and other tools so I can start working on watches. Thank you but you got me good
The lift angle is a fixed property of each calibre, it can't be adjusted. If you have e.g. a Seiko 6R34 movement, you look up what the lift angle is for this calibre, and enter it into the timegrapher. The timegrapher uses this variable to calculate the amplitude. If all you want to do is to regulate your watch, you don't even need to know nor enter the correct lift angle. Should you enter the wrong lift angle, all that happens is that the calculated amplitude will be wrong. The measured rate isn't affected.
Cool video. STAR WARS style...✌️ I have a Seiko save ocean 4R36 and it works 2 seconds fast a day. Not bad. In the beginning it was - 1 second. After 6 months, walk +2. I leave it at night with dial 12 up, it delays 2 seconds, and in the morning is ok again. Months go by without getting it right.👍👍
...nice...but Dimitri you didn't show us how you moved the stud etc to set the beat and time did you use a special tool for that? thanks and keep the good videos coming!
Not all watch movements have movable hairspring fastening studs. They are set usually by turning the hairspring inner fastening collar and that's NOT for beginners! In the Seiko in this video the stud is turnable just like the time regulating arm.
@@Ba_Yegu thank you for your note Yegu...it's true this is not for beginners! I've seen a video some time ago where a special tool was used to move two pins between which the spring is moving and this somehow regulated the spring action , but I can't remember who made the video.
Since the beat error is always a positive number (it’s the absolute difference of the two rotation times), how do you know whether to turn the stud carrier clockwise or counterclockwise other than trial and error? I regulated a Seiko NH35A once from 1.3ms to 0.6ms, but when I tried to get it further down, the balance wheel stopped and the watch was permanently damaged!
I also would love to know answers to your question, and what happened inside your movement. Did you ever get the movement professionally looked at and repaired? What happened? I didn't know permanent damage could happen from regulating.
I saw a very large positional error between the first 3 positions and the 4th which was about -12s/day. Was there a reason for that? it's a very big difference.
I’m losing only five seconds per day on my Orient F6922; I don’t own a Timegrapher, etc. but is it safe to assume my accuracy isn’t bad enough to risk possibly messing up my new watch?
Dude that's almost COSC Certified accuracy, leave it alone! That's great for a mechanical watch! Personally I wouldn't mess with any of my watches unless they're close to 30 secs off a day.
@@JdhMac New watches have (and should have) a much higher accuracy tolerance than old. And with that said, I do have a few 20-50yo vintage watches that are around 1 min slow a day, which is fairly common given they have never been serviced. No change when demagnetized. I have been tempted to get these serviced. But as often as I wear them, and rarely more than a couple days in a row, versus the cost of getting them serviced ($200-300 around me), it has never been a priority. And it doesn't bother me much. Good luck
Hi. I’m trying to regulate the 6R35 movement from my alpinist. With a Weishi 1000. It shows very different value when I have the back of the watch on or off, which one is the correct way to adjust? Also is it normal that the values change significantly from 0 to + 13 if I leave it on for minutes. Is this normal or I do something wrong?
perhaps the sensitivity of your device microphone is not sensitive enough. I always get the best results when the watch movement is completely removed from the watch case, or when the watch case is open.
Very good but how does it perform over time as the watch runs down? My experience is that as these watches run down they get increasingly inaccurate. The longer the power reserve, the worse they perform. This is just 1 reason they need to be consigned to the bin and replaced with decent mecaquartz movements. If someone had told me 20 years ago that people would be paying large amounts for new and unknown Chinese brands fitted with ancient, bulky Seiko automatic movements, I never would have believed them...
I have a new watch with a NH35a movement. When my watch is a horizontal position, the beat error is 0.1ms with dial facing down and 4ms with the dial facing up. What do you think about the possible cause of this discrepancy/problem, and can the issue be solved?
Hey thanks for the vid but is this a bit misleading? i just regulated one of my 7s26 seikos for the first time and it seems like if you move one lever it throws off the what the other does. If i change the beat error it drastically slows or speeds up the watch. If i get the beat error to .1 (lowest i could get) the watch would be about -80 seconds. If i speed up the watch to +/- zero it would throw the beat error up to like 4 ms. I had to just keep adjusting these levers trying to do this balancing act for like hours before i finally got -1 s/d and .3 beat error. Is this not normal or does just nobody talk about this in any tutorials for some reason?
Great video! I also have a Seiko SPB143 that is running super slow. I've tried to take the caseback off mine with my jaxa wrench, and it seems to be screwed in way tighter than any Seiko I've ever encountered. Have you noticed that the one you worked on was on tight as well?
Dimitri, you probably know that I really enjoy your videos and I think this is a beautiful watch with a very good movement. But, you stumped me when you knew which direction to move the stud for correcting the beat error without first moving it to see which direction it needed to go. I don't think you're psychic so you most likely know something I don't. Since I often work on vintage watches with no adjustable stud for correcting the beat error, it would be incredibly helpful to know how you do that. It would save me a lot of time, not to mention money buying new hairsprings after destroying them adjusting the collet.
How do you calculate an average to compensate for positionals error from those 4 positions then? I see your timegrapher calculate it automatically but the weishi 1000 doesn't. I know that the dial up should weighted a bit of you work alot at a desk like me but how much? Thanks.
IMHO regarding the Regulator's own watch the best method to regulate it would be wearing the watch for a week just as usual and check the accuracy once a day. After a week the watch is put on the Timegrapher and checked against it for comparison and to determine the beat error. If the "Real World" accuracy is lets say +7sec/day and the mean accuracy on Timegrapher would be +11 but after compensating for the beat error +19sec/day one wouldn't like to adjust away the whole 19 secs, but only 15 or slightly less. Of course this method is not for professional watchmakers, who wouldn't wear their arms filled of customer's watches for a week a piece... (Automatic Watch Winders are useless in this.) I'd prefer a watch running slightly fast but wouldn't touch a non-chronometer movement which runs ±5secs/day. It's perfectly fine, believe me! 😄
Do you ever find that small things like tightening the case back or putting on a different watch band have an effect on the regulation? I have a watch that came with a steel bracelet and when I take it off and put on a nato strap it goes from running about 4 seconds a day fast to 7 seconds a day slow according to the graph.
Hello doctor . I love your videos.. you are amazing . I just bought my first mechanic watch (old one ) a mechanic manual watch *brand cauny* it's a swiss watch . But it stop sometimes and after I click on it ..it work again
My NH35A runs fine upside down, but when in a normal position, horizontal, the watch shows a 4ms beat error. What can I do to solve that ? I am using a phone App.
I have the problem that I can't move the pins as little as I want to. I can do the small movement with my hand, but there is some friction until it starts moving... and then once it moves the force is too much so I overshoot the movement.
Hi Doc. My watch seiko 7002 too fast 20 minutes perday. Can i do it without this device? 😅 I was trying to adjust the pin regulator slowly, but the result not significant at all. Shall i touch the stud? Thanks
Because Seiko don't regulate their movements even at the higher prices. And then they use the 6R movements. Look at the amplitude, it's pathetic for a new watch.
@@evilcrossbar I have a few Seiko Quartz but I have no real interest in buying any higher priced Seiko mechanical watches. I don’t even think of Seiko as much of a brand anymore. I would rather deal with a quality micro brand.
@@evilcrossbar Or someone already messed with it and didn't know what to do. With this difference, Seiko would adjust within the warranty, as it largely passes the factory tolerances.
@@ant.9940 My Seiko SARB017 Alpinist with a 6R15 had similar amplitude and -19 seconds per day (within Seiko's generous tolerances they give themselves) and was brand new. These 6R movements appear to be developed from the 7s26 found in Seiko 5s which also tend to suffer from low amplitude. The fact that Seiko puts these in $1,000+ watches is frankly bizarre. At that price point they should at least get the 6L movements.
Seiko has a great history and has always been good, but I also have questions about the new generation of Seiko timepieces, especially the more expensive models. Whether this is still good, value for money. I don't think so.. A Seiko 5, value for money, yes!
Great video Dimitri. Maar is de beat error na correctie in elke positie nu 0,1 ms? De 4de positie zag er slecht uit en de amplitude viel flink terug. Was dit dan veel constanter na je aanpassing? Ik begin binnenkort met het reguleren van een Seiko (mijn eerste horloge) en ben benieuwd of het me lukt;)
@@deegxpert Ja, heb er al enkele gedaan. De beat error van de Seiko (NH35) is in 5 posities niet meer dan 0,1ms. De spreiding in de seconden per dag is 6 seconden. Best tevreden, heb het uurwerk schoon gemaakt en geolied. Nu in de leer bij Chronoglide 😋
Well, you asked us to let us know.... I could do with a long and clear video of someone who knows what he's doing, taking a venus 175 apart (and putting it back together) including your ideas about lubrication for that movement Cheers Paddy
Interestingly MOST of my Seiko care out of the box with a beat error > 1.0m/s.....some w significant +15s/d...... and some +-2s/d BUT still w beat error >1.3m......
2:46, I own Seiko SPB053 with 6R15 movement. It is a slightly bigger watch than Seiko SPB143 with a narrow bezel with a unique colour that sometimes appears to be blue and sometimes green, depending on the light. It is for me one of the most beautiful divers watches ever made. It is a slightly bigger watch than Seiko SPB143. It is running exactly +4 seconds every day.
I'm extremely disgusted with Seiko and even more disgusted with myself for believing in Seiko when watching this video. Where is the watch case made? Seiko, is it made in Japan or is it China? The outside is engraving Japan and the inside of the watch cover is engraved, China case and most people will never see the inner side of the watch case cover except the watchmaker.
I know, it doesn't say made in Japan but why is there Japan? What else is true about Seiko products? So my watch is most likely made in China and I don't admire it anymore from this moment.
How much do we have to spend to get a Japanese watch? I don't believe anymore that even Marine Master is made in Japan or even one of those limited and expensive 1965 "62 MAS" Re-Creation watches I always hoped to own one day.
I don't believe that Grand Seiko watches are created and made by "artisans" in some studio looking at mountains, lakes and birch wood outside of the studio. My f. ass! All those watches are made by slave labour in some shit holes factories in China and run by commies.
I will never buy Seiko again!
You know, I was unpleasantly surprised when I saw that too. I currently own SBP147, SPB213, SPB105 that all state "Japan" on the dial, "Japan" on the case back, and even on the Seiko site, and all the reviews! I'm tempted to purchase a watch case opener off Amazon and open all mine up to take a look!
I wonder if it's a similar thing like SNAP-ON had throughout all last decade where they were still branding a lot of their tools "MADE IN USA", when they were really "Assembled In USA With Globally Sourced Parts". They finally got called out on it and now all their handled ratchets, and many other tools, don't say anything about USA stamped on them anymore. Because all their handles and the other parts are made in China! 😡
So I wonder if Seiko can make the cases in China, but make movements in Japan, and assemble in Japan, and still call it "MADE IN JAPAN"?? 😕
Oh also to add, my SPB105 green-gilt-dialed 68 diver remake, states directly "MADE IN JAPAN" on the back cover.
@@4by_yotaguy373 I can't believe this coincidence. When I wrote the comment, I also wanted to mention Snap-on tools but I thought most people who are interested in watches don't care about mechanical tools and I didn't want to complicate my comment even more.
Last few years I tend to buy mostly Snap-on and Proto wrenches, sockets, and ratchets. When I'm willing to pay for one little wrench as much money that could get me more than the whole set of Chinese-made knockoff wrenches in my local auto store, of course, I would be pissed off if I found out they are Chinese made. I paid over 1000 U.S. Dollars for my last American-made torque wrench. I could've bought a Chinese torque wrench for 300 Dollars.
People always say, the Chinese now make quality stuff or they say, everybody makes stuff in China now. That's what it is.
@@4by_yotaguy373 I don't care what they can legally do. It is all about principle. They have to be honest.
I would like to have seen how much you movement you made for each adjustment with a before and after if we can’t easily see real time. Very informative video.
I've tried this adjustment and the amount of movement is practically imperceptible. I've seen that some of the higher-end movements have an adjustment screw which gives you much more control.
@@bmw128racer Yes, the seiko way of doing it is terrible. Unfortunately there does not appear to be any dign of them changing it.
@@ccooper8785 It's not just the Seiko way: A lot of watches (my Orient Ray 2, for example) have the same type of mechanism unfortunately. 😕
@@bmw128racer Well Orient is under the Epson umbrella same as Seiko but you are correct most asian movements do not have screw type micro adjustment unless they are copies of swiss movements mostly ETA 2824 vs PT5000
Thank you for this video. My Seiko was with more than 15 minutes ahead per day. Following the instructions from this video I did the adjustment about 4 times. After 5 days from the last adjustment I saw a few small changes. Now I have 2 or 3 seconds plus OR minus in 24 hours. For me it is excellent.
dang 15min ahead / day I'd consider the watch being magnetized before adjusting the balance rate
Definitely sounds like a magnetized movement!
It took me a year to heal from blood cancer still can't believe on my self am alive . Nice to watch ur Videos after a year.
I'm glad you're alive too 👍
Excellent explanation. Simple but sound. I put my SPB239 on a timegrapher today, adjusted the beat error and regulated the time. The six positions were extremely different, ranging from -15 to -54 seconds. On average, the watch was at over minus 30 seconds.
I saw that the regulator pin was almost completely at the minus setting. I wonder who assembles those watches and regulates them to fully minus, resulting in an extremely bad accuracy.
It took me over an hour to fix the problem, now it's on my wrist and we'll see in a few days if I have to re-adjust it again, as the six positions were between +7 and -23....
Thanks again for sharing!
A very nice video. May I suggest hacking the movement to stop the movement while adjusting it? To avoid any damage to the balance spring.
to get a perfect reading do you need to fully wind the movement before measuring or Half power is enough.
Hi thanks for posting this. My SPB143 had a 1.7 ms beat error and was 30 s slow and now it has a 0.2ms beat error and is 3 s fast so happy now with that. It was probably stored in some warehouse for too long as it didn't even come in the right box!
I had this same problem with my new padi turtle it ran far to slow, my vintage seiko divers keep better time. Seiko do need to improve there regulating out of the factory. Great tutorial Dimitri. Keep well from New Zealand.
Thanks Bruce, "Seiko do need to improve there regulating out of the factory" indeed! I sell new seiko timepieces in my store, and the customer came back after a week with the complaint that the Seiko SPB143J1 timepiece was so behind. Fortunately I was able to rectify this quickly, but this is not a good advertisement for Seiko...
@@therealwatchdoctor Hello What can you say about the Orient Star f6n43 movement, are they any better than seiko 6f35 movements?
@@therealwatchdoctorI agree! I just got my SRPJ83 with the 4R36 and it’s 3.0be and +26sd.. crazy.. hope this is easier to regulate than my Timex was…
Fantastic video! So clear and easy to understand
Seiko has a great history and has always been good, but I also have questions about the new generation of Seiko timepieces, especially the more expensive models like this Seiko Prospex SPB143J1. Whether this is still good, value for money, I don't think so.. A Seiko 5, value for money, yes! What do you guys think?
Could you do a video on how to clean and lubricate a reversing gear, and you would use on a reversing gear
Yes
I agree 100%. The amount of money that Seiko is charging for these watches is ridiculous. The quality (and quality control) simply isn't there for $1,000+, and the movements leave a lot to be desired in terms of accuracy right out of the box. Sad that Seiko has lost its way so much since the 1960s-1970s.
Hamilton and Tissot are now the best bang for buck name watch brands. ETA 2824 and SW-220 are better than Seiko's 6R-series and on par with their 8L-series movements in regards to beat frequency and accuracy . Plus, Seiko bracelets and clasps are trash. However, I do like Seiko's sun dials, spring bars, and dial hands.
You are right!
Does moving the stud support align the impulse jewel into the middle of the two banking pins?
Does the movement need to be stopped while making adjustments, or does it need to remain running?
So far, you're the coolest watch doctor i've ever seen, sir. Salute
Thanks man, I do my very best :-)
Very nicely explained! I feel like I totally get it after watching this. One question: do you run the movement through the various positions after regulation? I imagine there's a law of averages involved in getting this right.
Thank you for this simple, but very clear explanation. I can and will certainly try this at home.
Thanks Egbert ;-) and good luck!
As a mechanical contractor I can appreciate the beauty of the movements, And I can appreciate the beauty of your craftsmanship. Now call me insane but I had bought some pocket watches moebius oils and greases. To start working on watches as a hobby. You have put the bug in me LOL. Just spent an obscene amount of money screwdrivers and other tools so I can start working on watches. Thank you but you got me good
куда подевался Дмитрий? where is a new videos
@@ИванИванов-о6ц6м I know rite
gotta love seiko watches! amazing video as always doc!
Thanks Jonna-X!
Why didn't show the most important thing and the actual movement of the adjusting pin ?
exactly 😂
Thank you for posting this insightful and educational video.
Now, I understand what’s the issue with my watch.
Top of the line friend, thank you, how much does the adjustment cost
very clear and helpful tutorial - thanks
Hi doctor. Some advice on tools that are a good tradeoff between quality and price?
I didn’t see the actual adjustment. I wish it was fully demonstrated
Hello, what if the lift angle should be 54 degrees but is 53 after regulating rate and BE. Is this ok?
The lift angle is a fixed property of each calibre, it can't be adjusted. If you have e.g. a Seiko 6R34 movement, you look up what the lift angle is for this calibre, and enter it into the timegrapher. The timegrapher uses this variable to calculate the amplitude. If all you want to do is to regulate your watch, you don't even need to know nor enter the correct lift angle. Should you enter the wrong lift angle, all that happens is that the calculated amplitude will be wrong. The measured rate isn't affected.
Best watch UA-cam ever.
How much did you move the regulator to adjust 40sec?
How did you know that the beat error correction should do clockwise, and not anticlockwise?
Isn't the testing machine for that? Adjust and test again 😏
Cool video. STAR WARS style...✌️ I have a Seiko save ocean 4R36 and it works 2 seconds fast a day. Not bad. In the beginning it was - 1 second. After 6 months, walk +2. I leave it at night with dial 12 up, it delays 2 seconds, and in the morning is ok again. Months go by without getting it right.👍👍
...nice...but Dimitri you didn't show us how you moved the stud etc to set the beat and time did you use a special tool for that?
thanks and keep the good videos coming!
Not all watch movements have movable hairspring fastening studs. They are set usually by turning the hairspring inner fastening collar and that's NOT for beginners!
In the Seiko in this video the stud is turnable just like the time regulating arm.
@@Ba_Yegu thank you for your note Yegu...it's true this is not for beginners! I've seen a video some time ago where a special tool was used to move two pins between which the spring is moving and this somehow regulated the spring action , but I can't remember who made the video.
Since the beat error is always a positive number (it’s the absolute difference of the two rotation times), how do you know whether to turn the stud carrier clockwise or counterclockwise other than trial and error? I regulated a Seiko NH35A once from 1.3ms to 0.6ms, but when I tried to get it further down, the balance wheel stopped and the watch was permanently damaged!
I also would love to know answers to your question, and what happened inside your movement. Did you ever get the movement professionally looked at and repaired? What happened? I didn't know permanent damage could happen from regulating.
@@4by_yotaguy373 It couldn't be fixed and so I returned it to Amazon.
I don't have an answer but I just move it one direction. If the beat error increases then I know I need to move back the other direction.
What solutions do you use in the cleaning machine?
I saw a very large positional error between the first 3 positions and the 4th which was about -12s/day. Was there a reason for that? it's a very big difference.
Will try as the video showed when met the beat error issues. Wonderful!
thanks for sharing this. do you have a video on how to regulate an eta2824?
How do you actually move the pins?
I’m losing only five seconds per day on my Orient F6922; I don’t own a Timegrapher, etc. but is it safe to assume my accuracy isn’t bad enough to risk possibly messing up my new watch?
Dude that's almost COSC Certified accuracy, leave it alone! That's great for a mechanical watch! Personally I wouldn't mess with any of my watches unless they're close to 30 secs off a day.
@@4by_yotaguy373 thanks for the heads-up. I'll just leave it as it is. 🙏🏻
@@JdhMac New watches have (and should have) a much higher accuracy tolerance than old. And with that said, I do have a few 20-50yo vintage watches that are around 1 min slow a day, which is fairly common given they have never been serviced. No change when demagnetized. I have been tempted to get these serviced. But as often as I wear them, and rarely more than a couple days in a row, versus the cost of getting them serviced ($200-300 around me), it has never been a priority. And it doesn't bother me much. Good luck
Hi. I’m trying to regulate the 6R35 movement from my alpinist. With a Weishi 1000. It shows very different value when I have the back of the watch on or off, which one is the correct way to adjust? Also is it normal that the values change significantly from 0 to + 13 if I leave it on for minutes. Is this normal or I do something wrong?
perhaps the sensitivity of your device microphone is not sensitive enough. I always get the best results when the watch movement is completely removed from the watch case, or when the watch case is open.
Very good but how does it perform over time as the watch runs down?
My experience is that as these watches run down they get increasingly inaccurate.
The longer the power reserve, the worse they perform.
This is just 1 reason they need to be consigned to the bin and replaced with decent mecaquartz movements.
If someone had told me 20 years ago that people would be paying large amounts for new and unknown Chinese brands fitted with ancient, bulky Seiko automatic movements, I never would have believed them...
I have a new watch with a NH35a movement. When my watch is a horizontal position, the beat error is 0.1ms with dial facing down and 4ms with the dial facing up. What do you think about the possible cause of this discrepancy/problem, and can the issue be solved?
Yikes. I just checked mine and it shows 0.3ms dial up and 0.4ms dial down. crown down was 0.1ms. I posted a video. I did some adjustment afterwards.
Nice clear instruction. Are you planning on going into the Seiko balance spring sales business?😄
Hey thanks for the vid but is this a bit misleading? i just regulated one of my 7s26 seikos for the first time and it seems like if you move one lever it throws off the what the other does.
If i change the beat error it drastically slows or speeds up the watch. If i get the beat error to .1 (lowest i could get) the watch would be about -80 seconds. If i speed up the watch to +/- zero it would throw the beat error up to like 4 ms.
I had to just keep adjusting these levers trying to do this balancing act for like hours before i finally got -1 s/d and .3 beat error.
Is this not normal or does just nobody talk about this in any tutorials for some reason?
This is normal. Adjusting the beat error changes the s/d so you have to adjust accordingly.
Great video! I also have a Seiko SPB143 that is running super slow. I've tried to take the caseback off mine with my jaxa wrench, and it seems to be screwed in way tighter than any Seiko I've ever encountered. Have you noticed that the one you worked on was on tight as well?
Dimitri, you probably know that I really enjoy your videos and I think this is a beautiful watch with a very good movement. But, you stumped me when you knew which direction to move the stud for correcting the beat error without first moving it to see which direction it needed to go. I don't think you're psychic so you most likely know something I don't. Since I often work on vintage watches with no adjustable stud for correcting the beat error, it would be incredibly helpful to know how you do that. It would save me a lot of time, not to mention money buying new hairsprings after destroying them adjusting the collet.
How do you calculate an average to compensate for positionals error from those 4 positions then? I see your timegrapher calculate it automatically but the weishi 1000 doesn't. I know that the dial up should weighted a bit of you work alot at a desk like me but how much? Thanks.
IMHO regarding the Regulator's own watch the best method to regulate it would be wearing the watch for a week just as usual and check the accuracy once a day. After a week the watch is put on the Timegrapher and checked against it for comparison and to determine the beat error.
If the "Real World" accuracy is lets say +7sec/day and the mean accuracy on Timegrapher would be +11 but after compensating for the beat error +19sec/day one wouldn't like to adjust away the whole 19 secs, but only 15 or slightly less.
Of course this method is not for professional watchmakers, who wouldn't wear their arms filled of customer's watches for a week a piece... (Automatic Watch Winders are useless in this.)
I'd prefer a watch running slightly fast but wouldn't touch a non-chronometer movement which runs ±5secs/day. It's perfectly fine, believe me! 😄
@@Ba_Yegu This is a good comment! 👍
Great video 😊
Thanks! @otispotis47
Do you ever find that small things like tightening the case back or putting on a different watch band have an effect on the regulation? I have a watch that came with a steel bracelet and when I take it off and put on a nato strap it goes from running about 4 seconds a day fast to 7 seconds a day slow according to the graph.
Maybe the watch has had a little shock by removing the watch bracelet?
Hi Dmitry I am watch ⌚ technician in sri lanka .I would like to see your watch repairing tips and your video
Hello doctor . I love your videos.. you are amazing . I just bought my first mechanic watch (old one ) a mechanic manual watch *brand cauny* it's a swiss watch . But it stop sometimes and after I click on it ..it work again
Sounds like it's time (or overdue) to get the movement serviced.
Excellent video!
My NH35A runs fine upside down, but when in a normal position, horizontal, the watch shows a 4ms beat error. What can I do to solve that ? I am using a phone App.
I would be interested in seeing you do this with and compare this movement to the NH35 in my Invicta Pro Diver.
Great movement if regulated. My nh35a is only +12 seconds since NYE when I set it.
my lever is already at the minimum speed, but my watch still too fast like 2 second per minute. what should i do?
Hello, maybe your watch is getting magnetic and that's the problem?
What is the problem normally if position 1 -40 secs, position 2 +10 secs, position 3 -40 secs?
One question if I don't have such advanced Time Grapher like you but the normal one you showed earlier, how can I gather the average rate to adjust?
He said you can use a smartphone app in the video
Thank you so very much!! Please keep up the informative helpful videos!
Wow awesome video very useful
Thanks!
I have the problem that I can't move the pins as little as I want to. I can do the small movement with my hand, but there is some friction until it starts moving... and then once it moves the force is too much so I overshoot the movement.
Thanks for explaining. Very clear.
👍another concise explanation and excellent video...thanks again ⌚🩺🧑⚕️
Thanks Phillip ;-)
Brilliance ❤
Hi Doc. My watch seiko 7002 too fast 20 minutes perday. Can i do it without this device? 😅
I was trying to adjust the pin regulator slowly, but the result not significant at all. Shall i touch the stud?
Thanks
Can you do a video of your work area and tools? For some reason, nobody does this.
How does a watch of that price leave the factory when it’s that inaccurate. My new $450 RLG watch with a Miyota in it is 8 seconds a day fast.
Because Seiko don't regulate their movements even at the higher prices. And then they use the 6R movements. Look at the amplitude, it's pathetic for a new watch.
@@evilcrossbar I have a few Seiko Quartz but I have no real interest in buying any higher priced Seiko mechanical watches. I don’t even think of Seiko as much of a brand anymore. I would rather deal with a quality micro brand.
@@evilcrossbar Or someone already messed with it and didn't know what to do. With this difference, Seiko would adjust within the warranty, as it largely passes the factory tolerances.
@@ant.9940 My Seiko SARB017 Alpinist with a 6R15 had similar amplitude and -19 seconds per day (within Seiko's generous tolerances they give themselves) and was brand new.
These 6R movements appear to be developed from the 7s26 found in Seiko 5s which also tend to suffer from low amplitude. The fact that Seiko puts these in $1,000+ watches is frankly bizarre. At that price point they should at least get the 6L movements.
Seiko has a great history and has always been good, but I also have questions about the new generation of Seiko timepieces, especially the more expensive models. Whether this is still good, value for money. I don't think so.. A Seiko 5, value for money, yes!
I own a seiko cheapy Passage cocktail watch. My question is if it is just this easy why aren't they set at the factory?
What if the beat error never goes down and stays at 9ms?
Great video Dimitri. Maar is de beat error na correctie in elke positie nu 0,1 ms? De 4de positie zag er slecht uit en de amplitude viel flink terug. Was dit dan veel constanter na je aanpassing? Ik begin binnenkort met het reguleren van een Seiko (mijn eerste horloge) en ben benieuwd of het me lukt;)
En? gelukt ondertussen?
@@deegxpert Ja, heb er al enkele gedaan. De beat error van de Seiko (NH35) is in 5 posities niet meer dan 0,1ms. De spreiding in de seconden per dag is 6 seconden. Best tevreden, heb het uurwerk schoon gemaakt en geolied.
Nu in de leer bij Chronoglide 😋
Have you ever come across a watch that was magnetized and how do you solve this problem?
You need to buy a demagnetizer.
My seiko is always 20mins behind per day, and it is already maxed out in the hairspring
ten thumb up, my willard reissue comes with frustrating - 35s/day 😔
Thanks! That's indeed frustrating...
Why you don’t make new video’s?
We appreciate your work so far!
Thanks! I'm back on track now with the channel. I will upload every 2 weeks ;-)
Well, you asked us to let us know.... I could do with a long and clear video of someone who knows what he's doing, taking a venus 175 apart (and putting it back together) including your ideas about lubrication for that movement
Cheers
Paddy
Also, tip for people. I stop the watch before adjusting. I had a friend accidently touch the moving wheel and his hairspring popped out.
How much could it cost to have a 6r35 regulated? If you factor that in the good value of Seiko is really gone...
No need to remove the movement from the case. Remove the strap and back of case. place the case on the timegrapher and do it.
Interestingly MOST of my Seiko care out of the box with a beat error > 1.0m/s.....some w significant +15s/d...... and some +-2s/d BUT still w beat error >1.3m......
I did NOT see you make any adjustments or movements ???
:-.) Thanks
Pretty bad for a $1460 watch to run 5 minutes fast (~43 seconds/day). My Orient Ray 2 that I've had for over a year is only fast by 5 seconds/day.
Shame you didn't show for how much you moved it! great video though
Wish you would’ve explained or shown how much you move it. This could’ve been explained via text
Please Service Tourbillon Movement. Thank you.
This guy hasn't posted a new video in over 10 month's! Don't you think that's strange?
brother update
👍
I cannot enjoy the video when you have this for quality of sound
👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏 🇧🇷
Not a lot of watch for the money..
#230 Thumbs uP
It is "too slow" NOT "to slow".
You do realize most of the mechanical timepiece GOATs in the world currently, that English is not their first language?