Wow, totally conviced me to get a timegrapher and start regulating my many autos. Not only did you demystify the concepts, you inspired confidence in me to take the next step in my horological journey.
@@the1010watchclub i had the timegrapher in my AliExpress cart for weeks on end, but only ended up buying it (the 1900 version) after watching your vid so that i could actually make sense of the information it'll give me.
This video was very informative. Thank you !! I bought a watch and the vendor sent me a photo of the measurements, but I had no clue what they meant ... until now ! Thank you !
@@the1010watchclub Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music. I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
In addition to the two lines as a graphical representation of beat error, the slope of the line (s) corresponds with the gain or loss per day. Steeper lines means greater gain or loss.
Perfect, exactly what I needed to see and hear .... my timegrapher arrived yesterday so I could regulate new watch builds , well done, much appreciated!
I work on tons of Seikos and I can tell you that 200+ amplitude is normal for a Seiko you will be lucky to see 230-250 on any vintage Seiko or just about any 7### series. You can also adjust beat with or without a moving stud arm. You just have to shorten or lengthen the hairspring at the stud pin. Other than that your explanation was spot on.
Thanks, good to know. I just bought a new Addiesdive with NH35=movement, in less than 24 hours it has lost 5 minutes or so. I’ll try demagnetizing it but maybe it just needs to settle in.
Thank you so much.. i think you are the only one that completely explained everything to know about using the timegrapher.. now i am 100% decided to buy a timegrapher because i know now how to use it.. You deseve a like & sub. God bless you dude..
Really glad it was helpful and thanks for the sub! There's a few links in the description to help you find the best price if you're planning on buying one 👍
for the record, you can correct the beat error on all watches with a hair spring. It's more difficult for older watches like pocket watches because you need to rotate the hairspring collet on the staff. Difficult to do because it requires alot of trial and error. You may also need to reposition the stud to make the hairspring longer/shorter.
Thank you...thank you...thank you!!! Terrific video, and most useful. I really appreciate you taking the time to cover this information. The only downside is that now I really want to but a timegrapher 🙂
Thank you for making this video. When I searched youtube to learn what beat error is, I never dreamed that I'd find a video so clear, thorough, and helpful. I downloaded a watch accuracy app, which just uses the phone's microphone to measure rate and graph it. However, because of your explanation of beat error graphing, I was able to adjust the rate AND the beat error.
@@georgeiceman867 Watch Tuner Timegrapher by Bartlomiej Swiatek price is £11.99 is possibly/probably the app he was on about. The same developer also has two other apps that are for a watch. Hope this helps, if you haven’t found it yet.
This was great info - the kind of thing I pretended to know watching other videos, but never really understood until now. So, thank you! Also, you should slap your branding on one of those coasters and start selling merch 😏
Fantastic video, thanks! This was perfect and exactly what i needed. My brand new Seiko is running terribly so i’m doing my research so i can attempt to regulate it myself.
Just thought it was funny I search "Timegrapher", and one of the first videos I find has a 5-string Spector in the background! Awesome basses. I've had a couple of NS5CRFMs over the years. Always loved the Spector sound and build quality, but they just don't fit me -- especially the second one I had which was a 35". 5-string duties are currently filled by a G&L L-2500 and StingRay 5 Classic. I feel like I really only need one fiver, and the 'Ray has the better B string... but I just can't bring myself to sell the G&L -- it's INSANELY flexible! Great video btw! Have fun!
With the lift angle the timegrapher doesn't detect the accuracy, it is a parameter used only to calculate the amplitude. The amplitude is the swing of the balance wheel not from one end to the other as you said, but from the resting position (which should be with the impulse pin in the center of the pallet fork) to one of the sides, so from one end to the other end is around twice the amplitude.
This doesn’t “add up” to me though. Using your methodology, an amplitude of 270 degrees would mean “from one end to the other is” 540 degrees, which is one and a half full turns of the balance wheel - that just does not happen.
@@a.aguilar way late here, but I think he is saying that the balance wheel doesn’t make a 540° rotation though. In the video it’s not even doing one full rotation
Realize this is an old video but I thought I would add that The very first thing I do when a watch comes for service is check the watch to see if it has become magnetized. Good indication is a sudden change in the rate of the watch. Usually runs fast. None of the regulating and adjusting is valid without eliminating the magnetic problem. Simple to correct (usually). The balance spring is what is affected by magnetism and amplitude and rate are directly affected by this. Your Seiko in the video that was running very fast would make me suspicious of a magnetic issue. The hair spring will usually contract if magnetic and effectively shorten the spring making the watch run fast. Well done video.
This is really cool! I'm thinking that a timegrapher would be a nice tool to monitor the performance of my 1980 Submariner. The timegrapher is less costly than a watch service at Rolex USA.
Great vid, thank you. Clear and to the point. I might have missed it, but what is the significance of the traces not being horizontal e.g. starting from top left and ending bottom right?
I've been reviewing many a video on this subject and what I didn't understand from one, I picked up from another. But this one all the info you need in a simple explanation all in the one place. I wish I had teachers like this guy when I was at school (when dinosaur's roamed the earth).
Ahh, mate, what a great, concise clip, really well explained, sort of half knew but now you've taught me what's going on with, and why, the numbers, Many Thanks.
Wow what a great job. I've had my Timegrapher over a year and watched a number of UA-cams of them and yours is the best it's late now so I'll have to wait until morning to put my new Bathyscaphe on my unit and see how it's doing thanks. Oh and loved your sound effects😊
This is an outstanding video which clearly outlines the proper use of a timegrapher. Especially the information regarding lift angle: I see lots of videos with watches on the timegrapher while using the wrong lift angle.... Very well done, keep up the good work. Martin
The amplitude should be a minimum of 270 degrees at full wind and deliver consistent power. After running for 24 hours, a manual wind watch's amplitude should be at least 210 degrees or 190 degrees if it’s an automatic. So an amplitude of 226 degrees is could be absolutely fine. When these conditions are met, only then should you move on to regulation. Simply throwing a watch onto a timegrapher and deducing anything when the watch is not cleaned, oiled, and demagnetised as well the powertrain, escapement, and balance wheel are all in good working order. Also, nd not knowing if it's fully wound or has been running for X amount of time since a full wind will in almost all cases going to send you down the wrong path to figure out why the readings you are getting are the reading they are. Your video is great, the explanations are fabulous, I assume you know a bit more about adjusting and regulating than covered in this video. All I'm saying is that for watch enthusaists who slap their watch on a timegrapher, beware that the readings that you see and the adjustments and regulation needed to end up with a more accurate time are usually not a simple change to the escapement or because your watch is dirty. If you don't go through the proper steps before placing your watch on that machine, you don't have the full picture and your assumptions are most likely flawed. Also, if your beat error is below 1.0 ms there is ZERO change to that beat error that will affect the rate of the watch.
That was very well presented and described. I see that there are two models of the Timegrapher - 1000 and 1900. Could you tell me whether the 1900 has any worthwhile features over and above the 1000? Thank you.
Thank you! From what I could find, the 1900 has a slightly bigger display so it is able to show the lift angle and bph simultaneously instead of alternating back and forth, and it has a color display. Other than that, they both give the 3 main readings of amplitude, beat error, bph, and allow you to set the lift angle, which is all you really need.
@@the1010watchclub Thanks very much indeed for replying and sharing those details. I’ve since ordered up the 1000. I want to use it to health-check watches in my more permanent collection, to assess how near they are to needing a service, and to check pre-owned watches I buy to determine how sound the movement in them might be. Thanks again.
@@the1010watchclub i did some digging and there's more - the 1900 has extra averaging features which can do the accuracy down to X.X sec/day rather than just X sec/day (so 1.7 instead of 2 for example), which to me is well worth the extra $40 or so, and made me buy the 1900 this morning. the color screen has additional graphic options too but for me the real value would be in having the X.X resolution. am i at +2, or am i at +1.6 or +2.4? that's a big difference yet one will show just 2 while the other will tell me more.
I was trying to decide if I should get the 1000 or the 1900, and have spent some time trying to find out what the difference was between them. I believe what I have seen and read is correct, although I cannot be 100% sure of the information listed below. I am going by information and reviews given about the 1000 and the 1900. Some Information was also from an electronics forum, and a thread that a forum member started, that talked about the 1900 and showed photos of the 1900 when it was taken apart and examined. If you are unsure about which one to get, my advice would be that YOU find as much information as you can about both of them, and that you make your choice based on the information that YOU find. The 1900 has a larger screen than the 1000. The 1900 has a better screen than the 1000. The screen on the 1900 shows a cleaner and crisper display. The 1900 screen can show more information on the screen at the same time. The 1900 has more up to date software. The 1000 is accurate to 1 second. The 1900 is accurate to 0.1 second.
I don’t even own a mechanical watch, yet here I am lol
I don't know how to work on a watch, but I bought electric clippers & taught myself how to cut my own hair 😂.
Seriously, this is a great vid!❤
Yank on your willy everything comes true.
I would have warned you. Probably too late by now.
@ it is 😂
It's TIME to buy one
Best video on the topic. The guy knows what he’s talking about and can explain it in simple language.
Thanks, this video saved me 200 bucks on a vintage watch I was about to buy with a beat error of 9.8 and an amplitude of 119°
Regulating the beat error can bring the amp right up , also if it’s not wound that can show very low figures ,
Wow, totally conviced me to get a timegrapher and start regulating my many autos. Not only did you demystify the concepts, you inspired confidence in me to take the next step in my horological journey.
Good luck!
so this is actually the BEST and most simple description of these tools. simple, to the point. fantastic!!!
thank you!
@@the1010watchclub i had the timegrapher in my AliExpress cart for weeks on end, but only ended up buying it (the 1900 version) after watching your vid so that i could actually make sense of the information it'll give me.
Thank you, I was very curious about amplitude and how/why it mattered.
Best explanation on UA-cam
Much appreciated
This video was very informative. Thank you !! I bought a watch and the vendor sent me a photo of the measurements, but I had no clue what they meant ... until now ! Thank you !
This may be one of the most useful videos I’ve seen on UA-cam. Well done.
Thank you!
Merci pour toutes les explications
VERY good. That was so informative. Thank you.
Simply explained for us non-experts. Excellent, thank you!
Thanks for the great video. Today I bought a timegrapher 1000 and this video helped me a lot. I'm Czech, so I apologize for any mistakes.
@ Zbyšek Uhlik
Your English in your reply is perfect.
Thank you.
@@zbysekuhlik8269 You are welcome.
but in US we spell it "check".
JK of course, every comment helps the algorithm for the creator.
This is the best tutorial I have found to explain time graphing. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you
@@the1010watchclub Thanks for the wonderful video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music.
I don't know why some people are compelled to add annoying background music throughout their videos.
In addition to the two lines as a graphical representation of beat error, the slope of the line (s) corresponds with the gain or loss per day. Steeper lines means greater gain or loss.
ive always wondered what the graph was for. never made sense until now.
man, you are great, thank you for what you are doing. i am going to watch all your stuff right now!!
Welcome to the channel, thank you!
excellent tutorial!
This was extremely useful!
Thank you. Very informative and comprehensive explanation of the concepts. I’m now more clear after watching your useful video. 👍🏼
🤗 Best explanation of how a Timegrapher works so far🙏
Little late to the party but thank you, thank you, thank you! Now I know what I'm doing with my Timegrapher.
Perfect, exactly what I needed to see and hear .... my timegrapher arrived yesterday so I could regulate new watch builds , well done, much appreciated!
Good luck!
Own one of these and now I know exactly how it works.
Thank you so much for this - everything explained with articulation and simplicity!
Thanks so much, absolutely the best explanations with diagrams. You are talented instructor.
I work on tons of Seikos and I can tell you that 200+ amplitude is normal for a Seiko you will be lucky to see 230-250 on any vintage Seiko or just about any 7### series. You can also adjust beat with or without a moving stud arm. You just have to shorten or lengthen the hairspring at the stud pin. Other than that your explanation was spot on.
Thanks for the tips!
Thanks, good to know. I just bought a new Addiesdive with NH35=movement, in less than 24 hours it has lost 5 minutes or so. I’ll try demagnetizing it but maybe it just needs to settle in.
Thank you so much.. i think you are the only one that completely explained everything to know about using the timegrapher.. now i am 100% decided to buy a timegrapher because i know now how to use it.. You deseve a like & sub. God bless you dude..
Really glad it was helpful and thanks for the sub! There's a few links in the description to help you find the best price if you're planning on buying one 👍
Excellent explanation of the jargon used by horologists! Thank you so much for sharing.
for the record, you can correct the beat error on all watches with a hair spring. It's more difficult for older watches like pocket watches because you need to rotate the hairspring collet on the staff. Difficult to do because it requires alot of trial and error. You may also need to reposition the stud to make the hairspring longer/shorter.
This was very educational! Thanks for sharing and explaining it so well.
Thanks for watching, glad I could help!
Thanks! Best timegrapher tutorial I've seen so far. I just ordered my Weishi 1000 from Amazon.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful
really nice video. very informative at least for me that I am starting to restore watches for me and servicing my watches too. thanks for sharing!
Very cool! Great examples to explain this mysterious little box.
Thank you...thank you...thank you!!! Terrific video, and most useful. I really appreciate you taking the time to cover this information. The only downside is that now I really want to but a timegrapher 🙂
Thanks for watching as always. Just a warning, if you get one you may not stop testing your watches 😀
@@the1010watchclub That's what I am afraid of 🤣
@@the1010watchclub😂
The best tutorial I have found to explain time graphing. Best Regards and Thanks!
great examples of illustrations coupled with an even greater natural sound effect!
Thank you for that very clear explanation of this device....always wondered what the heck these numbers meant!
Thank you for making this video. When I searched youtube to learn what beat error is, I never dreamed that I'd find a video so clear, thorough, and helpful.
I downloaded a watch accuracy app, which just uses the phone's microphone to measure rate and graph it. However, because of your explanation of beat error graphing, I was able to adjust the rate AND the beat error.
So glad it was helpful!
@@georgeiceman867 Watch Tuner Timegrapher by Bartlomiej Swiatek price is £11.99 is possibly/probably the app he was on about. The same developer also has two other apps that are for a watch. Hope this helps, if you haven’t found it yet.
Love the amplitude vocal sound effects, didn't expect to laugh in a watch video
Excellent video! Just got my Timegrapher, and this was very helpful. Thanks!
Nice! Happy to help
This was great info - the kind of thing I pretended to know watching other videos, but never really understood until now. So, thank you!
Also, you should slap your branding on one of those coasters and start selling merch 😏
Glad it was helpful!
And good idea- enough channels sell straps, I need to get on the coaster game 😂
Finally nice and easy to get tutorial on timegrapher :) Nice, thanks!
Glad it helped!
A great tutorial! Thanks a lot for sharing.
Excellent explanation of time setting! And nice audio too. Thanks for.
Fantastic video, thanks! This was perfect and exactly what i needed. My brand new Seiko is running terribly so i’m doing my research so i can attempt to regulate it myself.
Happy to help- good luck!
Just thought it was funny I search "Timegrapher", and one of the first videos I find has a 5-string Spector in the background! Awesome basses. I've had a couple of NS5CRFMs over the years. Always loved the Spector sound and build quality, but they just don't fit me -- especially the second one I had which was a 35".
5-string duties are currently filled by a G&L L-2500 and StingRay 5 Classic. I feel like I really only need one fiver, and the 'Ray has the better B string... but I just can't bring myself to sell the G&L -- it's INSANELY flexible!
Great video btw!
Have fun!
That’s awesome! I’ve had that one for going on 20 years. Hard to part with
With the lift angle the timegrapher doesn't detect the accuracy, it is a parameter used only to calculate the amplitude.
The amplitude is the swing of the balance wheel not from one end to the other as you said, but from the resting position (which should be with the impulse pin in the center of the pallet fork) to one of the sides, so from one end to the other end is around twice the amplitude.
Correct!
This doesn’t “add up” to me though. Using your methodology, an amplitude of 270 degrees would mean “from one end to the other is” 540 degrees, which is one and a half full turns of the balance wheel - that just does not happen.
@@jimwatchyyc Sorry but it isn't my methodology. 270⁰ amplitude is indeed 540⁰ in total.
@@a.aguilar way late here, but I think he is saying that the balance wheel doesn’t make a 540° rotation though. In the video it’s not even doing one full rotation
@@tebonr In a watch with a 270º amplitude, the balance does a 540º rotation from one end to the other. It is how it works.
Awesome thanks for taking the time to explain to us rookies a little about the timegrapher!
Great video, well explained!
Thank you so much.
Realize this is an old video but I thought I would add that The very first thing I do when a watch comes for service is check the watch to see if it has become magnetized. Good indication is a sudden change in the rate of the watch. Usually runs fast. None of the regulating and adjusting is valid without eliminating the magnetic problem. Simple to correct (usually). The balance spring is what is affected by magnetism and amplitude and rate are directly affected by this. Your Seiko in the video that was running very fast would make me suspicious of a magnetic issue. The hair spring will usually contract if magnetic and effectively shorten the spring making the watch run fast. Well done video.
A clear, concise and effective explanation. Really helpful. Thanks very much.
Thank you!!
Great video that has answered a number of questions.
Great to hear!
This is a very informative video. The wheel illustration definitely aided in helping to understand with simplicity. Thanks for sharing.
Happy it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Extremely helpful. The best that I have found. Thank you.
Thank you!
Great simplified explanation 👍🏼👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Wow, thanks a lot, I always want to know what is going on with a timegrapher. Now Taft I know, I will get myself one to check all my watches.
Have fun!
Nice video, brother. Very straightforward and useful. Thank you.
Thank you!
Enfin, un bon pédagogue. Explications précises et bien documentées. Parfait.
Merci!
This is really cool! I'm thinking that a timegrapher would be a nice tool to monitor the performance of my 1980 Submariner.
The timegrapher is less costly than a watch service at Rolex USA.
Excellent and informative video. Thank you 🙏🏻
Great vid, thank you. Clear and to the point. I might have missed it, but what is the significance of the traces not being horizontal e.g. starting from top left and ending bottom right?
I've been reviewing many a video on this subject and what I didn't understand from one, I picked up from another. But this one all the info you need in a simple explanation all in the one place. I wish I had teachers like this guy when I was at school (when dinosaur's roamed the earth).
Thanks for the support, great to hear!
Great video. I hope, if you make another video about your timegrapher, that you correct your explanation about amplitude.
Ahh, mate, what a great, concise clip, really well explained, sort of half knew but now you've taught me what's going on with, and why, the numbers, Many Thanks.
Really appreciate it! Thanks for watching
Bloody great video mate. Cheers.
Great video Jonah. I think you should do one with demagnetizer as well and also about how to regulate a watch.
Yes! A regulating video is coming soon
Great video explanation!!! 👍
Wow what a great job. I've had my Timegrapher over a year and watched a number of UA-cams of them and yours is the best it's late now so I'll have to wait until morning to put my new Bathyscaphe on my unit and see how it's doing thanks. Oh and loved your sound effects😊
Thank you! Glad it was helpful
nice vid dude, just been lent a timegrapher and had fun in the beginning but then realised i needed help and this video was spot on, thanks!!
Great to hear!
This is an outstanding video which clearly outlines the proper use of a timegrapher. Especially the information regarding lift angle: I see lots of videos with watches on the timegrapher while using the wrong lift angle.... Very well done, keep up the good work.
Martin
Thank you, Martin! Much appreciated
Thank you so much, your explanations and examples are fantastic! Using the tea coaster was genius!! Just brilliant 🙂
Thank you! Glad it was helpful
With a spector on the background I had to subscribe! Cheers
Nice! I've had that bass for about 20 years now
@@the1010watchclub got some myself if you fancy a look instagram.com/p/CEELarsqGMT/?
The amplitude should be a minimum of 270 degrees at full wind and deliver consistent power. After running for 24 hours, a manual wind watch's amplitude should be at least 210 degrees or 190 degrees if it’s an automatic. So an amplitude of 226 degrees is could be absolutely fine. When these conditions are met, only then should you move on to regulation. Simply throwing a watch onto a timegrapher and deducing anything when the watch is not cleaned, oiled, and demagnetised as well the powertrain, escapement, and balance wheel are all in good working order.
Also, nd not knowing if it's fully wound or has been running for X amount of time since a full wind will in almost all cases going to send you down the wrong path to figure out why the readings you are getting are the reading they are. Your video is great, the explanations are fabulous, I assume you know a bit more about adjusting and regulating than covered in this video. All I'm saying is that for watch enthusaists who slap their watch on a timegrapher, beware that the readings that you see and the adjustments and regulation needed to end up with a more accurate time are usually not a simple change to the escapement or because your watch is dirty. If you don't go through the proper steps before placing your watch on that machine, you don't have the full picture and your assumptions are most likely flawed. Also, if your beat error is below 1.0 ms there is ZERO change to that beat error that will affect the rate of the watch.
Wow what a interesting well explained video ⭐️⭐️⭐️👍
Thank you!
Great explanation. Thank you.
Thank you ! amazing video and easy to understand.
Excellent and concise explanation. Thank you!
Dear sir, tanks for sharing this excellent video.
Thank for the feedback. I see people testing the watch in different positions on the timegraph stand, is that to get the best over all performance?
Multiple positions is the best way to simulate wearing the watch since your arm will be in multiple positions during the day
Excellently explained, thank you!
Brilliant. Best video I've watched on the subject, and I've watched many!
Thank you!!
Excellent tutorial!
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing this info....Best explanation ever
Exactly what I was looking for thanks
Merci c'est très clair avec le disque en liège ! 👌😉
That was very well presented and described. I see that there are two models of the Timegrapher - 1000 and 1900. Could you tell me whether the 1900 has any worthwhile features over and above the 1000? Thank you.
Thank you! From what I could find, the 1900 has a slightly bigger display so it is able to show the lift angle and bph simultaneously instead of alternating back and forth, and it has a color display. Other than that, they both give the 3 main readings of amplitude, beat error, bph, and allow you to set the lift angle, which is all you really need.
@@the1010watchclub Thanks very much indeed for replying and sharing those details. I’ve since ordered up the 1000. I want to use it to health-check watches in my more permanent collection, to assess how near they are to needing a service, and to check pre-owned watches I buy to determine how sound the movement in them might be. Thanks again.
@@nigelmcmorris9096 my pleasure, let me know how you end up liking it
@@the1010watchclub i did some digging and there's more - the 1900 has extra averaging features which can do the accuracy down to X.X sec/day rather than just X sec/day (so 1.7 instead of 2 for example), which to me is well worth the extra $40 or so, and made me buy the 1900 this morning. the color screen has additional graphic options too but for me the real value would be in having the X.X resolution. am i at +2, or am i at +1.6 or +2.4? that's a big difference yet one will show just 2 while the other will tell me more.
I was trying to decide if I should get the 1000 or the 1900, and have spent some time trying to find out what the difference was between them. I believe what I have seen and read is correct, although I cannot be 100% sure of the information listed below. I am going by information and reviews given about the 1000 and the 1900. Some Information was also from an electronics forum, and a thread that a forum member started, that talked about the 1900 and showed photos of the 1900 when it was taken apart and examined.
If you are unsure about which one to get, my advice would be that YOU find as much information as you can about both of them, and that you make your choice based on the information that YOU find.
The 1900 has a larger screen than the 1000.
The 1900 has a better screen than the 1000.
The screen on the 1900 shows a cleaner and crisper display.
The 1900 screen can show more information on the screen at the same time.
The 1900 has more up to date software.
The 1000 is accurate to 1 second.
The 1900 is accurate to 0.1 second.
Good video understanding the timegrapher good job.
You did a great job explaining using down to earth examples. Thumbs up!
Thank you!
Bass in the background. EPIC!
🤘🏼🤘🏼
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for a very clear explanation! Did anyone notice the animation at 3:04 has beat error?
😱
Well-detailed... now I can go out and buy one! 😎
Have fun with it!
It was very useful thank you for making this video.
Very clear and concise, thanks very much
Thank you for the video, this explains a lot! What do we do with the lift angle if we have no idea what movement it is?
I would keep it to the default setting. It might not be exact but it should give you a general idea at least
Best videos ever
Super tutorial. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
very helpful informative thank you!
This is great - clear and simple - thank you
Glad it was helpful!
thanks for the nice explanation!