I usually mark up the building base board with all the hull Stations, and the lines of the futtocks, and label the reference heights (so, baseboard to keel, baseboard to load waterline, etc.). This allows scribing things precisely parallel to the WL, or striking off distances.
About the patchy pattern... These changes in camo were most likely done at sea, or port. Not in a shipyard. Patchiness is what you want. Look at the F-14s. The greys were all over the place because of inconsistant paints and applications. Blotchiness is good.
Very true Jaani - the repainting of the baltic stripes was done in harbour at Grimstadtfjord before the Bismarck and Prinz Eugen set sail for the Denmark strait
@@TheModelShed I wasn't sure about it, but I was betting on it from what I remember from the books long time ago. :) I loved the ghosting of the painted over camo you got. Camo is interesting in the way that some patterns like the special urban cubist camo UK Army tried actually works because it is symmetrical. However, the more random pattern you can achieve with different color modulation et all the better it is. Especially in the woods and at sea. I remember seeing old photographs about different test patterns used on ships. Some were painted in straight black and white lines. It didn't hide the ship, but it made focusing your gaze on it near impossible. Really difficult to gauge the distances. As you're a master modeller, have you checked out Ebroin's work on his Tirpitz? He has basically re-engineered that kit because it didn't meet his quality standards. There might be some ideas on execution for you, as the two are sister ships.. even if the scale is completely different. He has a tie to that ship (not sure what) like I do. Tirpitz was the first model I saw.. Was made by my father. Later on after years and years I built it too. I'm starting the Mosquito build now. It's been fascinating watching you work on Bismark's hull. :)
@@TheModelShed I’m build Bismarck at the minute and want to use this paint scheme with yellow turrets I was wondering how I’d get the faint strips, cheers 😊
The yellow you will want to use will probably be Dunkel gelb dark yellow that the Germans used on their armor From 1943 onwards as the base coat for their armor before camouflage was added.
Great job on painted over stripes...false bow wave was present...they did paint over false bow but lightly...look at photo in the fjord on May21st...you can see where when they hoisted the starboard anchor the fresh paint ran...remnants of false stern wave remain in boot top on wreck photos..❤❤
Thanks Casey You can definitely see the edge of the darker false bow above the bow wave as the ship left Grimstadfjord on the 21st. As you say there are other shades present as well under the anchor hawses. I’m happy enough with the way the scheme looks on the model being fairly patchy. I might add something darker under the hawses though. 👍
Awesome tips and explanation ., I got this kit with the pontos kit in my stash … waiting to get build… very nice tips to follow along to paint the hull!!!! Thank you very much 2 dumbs up..
Great job, amazing detail. Splendid paintjob. But, when doing this scheme there should be a narrow slit of the ”false stern wave” remaining on the upper boot topping.
Thank you. I'd be interested to know what the source is for that. The only photo I have of the ship leaving Grimstad fjord shows no sign at all of white on the stern and she's sitting up in the water where it should be visible if it were there. If you could advise I'll review it with a view to adding it.
@@TheModelShed The Bismarck was not fully loaded when the Baltic camo was painted on, therefor when the camo was painted over in Norway (when she was fully loaded) some of it would remain below the waterline. It is also likely that the dark grey on the bow was painted over (Von Mullenhein-Rechberg states this in his book), photos of the Bismarck after the Battle of the Denmark Strait also suggests this. The dark grey would still show through the fresh paint though.
Been watching these videos, just amazed at how easy you make it appear. Can you recommend a type of headset for the close up work as I am in need of one, there are so many on the internet I do not know which is good quality.
I’ve just bought an Optivisor made by Donegan optical in the USA. They’re expensive but that’s down to the glass lenses. There are loads of identical looking cheap knock offs on eBay and Amazon but these are acrylic lenses so I avoided them. Go to a reputable supplier to make sure you get the real McCoy. I got mine from Cousins UK jeweler’s supplies. You need to select the correct magnification for your purposes but also check the focal length: the maximum 3.5x only has a focal length of 4”.
Hard to decide on which camouflage to use. One confusion I gave is the difference between May 24 and May 27. Why did they spend time repainting the flags and adding a yellow to the top of the main guns? Was it for friendly aircraft recognition as they turned for home?
Apparently that is the reason Leonard. I’m not sure they repainted the flags - my personal take is that they can be seen on the wreck because the fresh overpainting has degraded. It is as you say hard to be sure but in the end you have to go with what you are comfortable with.
They probably repainted the swastikas on the decks and dark yellow on the turrets to identify the ship as German since the ship was going to enter German Air coverage within the next 24 hrs. Bismarck almost made it until the rudder hit...
Check the reports by the swordfish pilots.i am sure they state the bow wave and from dark grey was there. I believe they ran out of time to overpaint all of the hul before leaving norway
Pretty sure they didn't run out of grey. Changing the appearance of a ship that transited from costal waters to oceanic waters was always on the agenda of captains, the British always painted their ships light gray when in the North see. The Merchant raiders where constantly repainted to resemble some other ship. I believe the fake wakes where kept for presenting a harder solution to target for subs. AOB or distance to target, thus speed. (most surface vessels had radar by that time to deteremine accurate range) Great work nailing the colors! Waiting for the next ep. ❤
Thanks Jerry I’ve just confirmed the scheme having found a photo of the ship leaving Grimstadfjord which confirms the false bow present as well as the wave so I’m glad i did it that way 👍
Thanks Andrew - yes I guess it was an attempt to give the impression that the target was smaller and therefore further away. How effective it was I’m not too sure.
Such a nice job masking in general. The lines are so crisp and accurate. That's always been a struggle for me.
I usually mark up the building base board with all the hull Stations, and the lines of the futtocks, and label the reference heights (so, baseboard to keel, baseboard to load waterline, etc.).
This allows scribing things precisely parallel to the WL, or striking off distances.
Great suggestion Mac thank you 👍
Have got this kit and the pontos set and building along with you as never done a brass kit before
take it steady Mike and you’ll get there - good luck
lots of precision and details in this hull painting . Result is just perfect !
Thank you Jean-Louis 👍
Steve, you hit a home run with the effect - great job
Thanks Ralph I’m pleased with how it turned out 👍
About the patchy pattern... These changes in camo were most likely done at sea, or port. Not in a shipyard. Patchiness is what you want. Look at the F-14s. The greys were all over the place because of inconsistant paints and applications. Blotchiness is good.
Very true Jaani - the repainting of the baltic stripes was done in harbour at Grimstadtfjord before the Bismarck and Prinz Eugen set sail for the Denmark strait
@@TheModelShed I wasn't sure about it, but I was betting on it from what I remember from the books long time ago. :)
I loved the ghosting of the painted over camo you got. Camo is interesting in the way that some patterns like the special urban cubist camo UK Army tried actually works because it is symmetrical. However, the more random pattern you can achieve with different color modulation et all the better it is. Especially in the woods and at sea.
I remember seeing old photographs about different test patterns used on ships. Some were painted in straight black and white lines. It didn't hide the ship, but it made focusing your gaze on it near impossible. Really difficult to gauge the distances.
As you're a master modeller, have you checked out Ebroin's work on his Tirpitz? He has basically re-engineered that kit because it didn't meet his quality standards. There might be some ideas on execution for you, as the two are sister ships.. even if the scale is completely different. He has a tie to that ship (not sure what) like I do.
Tirpitz was the first model I saw.. Was made by my father. Later on after years and years I built it too.
I'm starting the Mosquito build now. It's been fascinating watching you work on Bismark's hull. :)
Great paintwork
Thanks 👍
Great job looks fabulous
Thanks Jamie👍
@@TheModelShed I’m build Bismarck at the minute and want to use this paint scheme with yellow turrets I was wondering how I’d get the faint strips, cheers 😊
The yellow you will want to use will probably be Dunkel gelb dark yellow that the Germans used on their armor From 1943 onwards as the base coat for their armor before camouflage was added.
I do love the paint work on the hull. Such a neat idea for illusion.
Thanks Mike 👍
Great job on painted over stripes...false bow wave was present...they did paint over false bow but lightly...look at photo in the fjord on May21st...you can see where when they hoisted the starboard anchor the fresh paint ran...remnants of false stern wave remain in boot top on wreck photos..❤❤
Thanks Casey You can definitely see the edge of the darker false bow above the bow wave as the ship left Grimstadfjord on the 21st. As you say there are other shades present as well under the anchor hawses. I’m happy enough with the way the scheme looks on the model being fairly patchy. I might add something darker under the hawses though. 👍
@@TheModelShed i sent a couple of photos.🇬🇧🇨🇦🇬🇧🇨🇦
Hi Steve, Those stripes look really nice. Thanks for sharing your method with us. Have a great day. Jeff
Cheers Jeff 👍
That's an excellent and realistic paint job on your model Steve. Superb work.
Thanks very much Barry 👍
Very nice paint job mate
Yes thank you I’m pleased with how it’s turned out 👍
One word Steve Genius!!
Cheers Gary 👍
Awesome tips and explanation ., I got this kit with the pontos kit in my stash … waiting to get build… very nice tips to follow along to paint the hull!!!! Thank you very much 2 dumbs up..
Thank you Juan get the kit out and build it - it’s a nice kit.
Very nice work on the hull painting.
Thank you 👍
Top job Steve. Looking fantastic.
Thanks Evan 👍
Beautiful job of painting! Results are fantastic!
Thanks Chris 👍
really nice paint job on the subdued camo.
Thanks Marcus 👍
Great job, amazing detail. Splendid paintjob. But, when doing this scheme there should be a narrow slit of the ”false stern wave” remaining on the upper boot topping.
Thank you. I'd be interested to know what the source is for that. The only photo I have of the ship leaving Grimstad fjord shows no sign at all of white on the stern and she's sitting up in the water where it should be visible if it were there. If you could advise I'll review it with a view to adding it.
@@TheModelShed The Bismarck was not fully loaded when the Baltic camo was painted on, therefor when the camo was painted over in Norway (when she was fully loaded) some of it would remain below the waterline. It is also likely that the dark grey on the bow was painted over (Von Mullenhein-Rechberg states this in his book), photos of the Bismarck after the Battle of the Denmark Strait also suggests this. The dark grey would still show through the fresh paint though.
@@TheModelShed I have photos and illustrations, I’ll be happy to send them to you if it helps you out.
thanks I’d appreciate a photo of the said strip and when/where it was taken if possible
@@TheModelShed If you post a link to the Bismarck build on your FB-page I can post pictures as comments, or I’ll need an adress.
Lovely work, great series 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Cheers Pete 👍
Fantastic ATD, superb.
Thank you 👍
Sorry I missed the premier last night, I was in a live stream when this went out. Hull looks superb, Steve. Looking forward to the next instalment.
NP Cheers Phillip👍
Thank you Steve 👍
Cheers Ron 👍
Been watching these videos, just amazed at how easy you make it appear. Can you recommend a type of headset for the close up work as I am in need of one, there are so many on the internet I do not know which is good quality.
I’ve just bought an Optivisor made by Donegan optical in the USA. They’re expensive but that’s down to the glass lenses. There are loads of identical looking cheap knock offs on eBay and Amazon but these are acrylic lenses so I avoided them. Go to a reputable supplier to make sure you get the real McCoy. I got mine from Cousins UK jeweler’s supplies. You need to select the correct magnification for your purposes but also check the focal length: the maximum 3.5x only has a focal length of 4”.
Thank you@@TheModelShed Can you recommend a good superglue to deal with the photo etch as the ones I am looking out do not seem suitable.
Hard to decide on which camouflage to use. One confusion I gave is the difference between May 24 and May 27. Why did they spend time repainting the flags and adding a yellow to the top of the main guns? Was it for friendly aircraft recognition as they turned for home?
Apparently that is the reason Leonard. I’m not sure they repainted the flags - my personal take is that they can be seen on the wreck because the fresh overpainting has degraded. It is as you say hard to be sure but in the end you have to go with what you are comfortable with.
They probably repainted the swastikas on the decks and dark yellow on the turrets to identify the ship as German since the ship was going to enter German Air coverage within the next 24 hrs. Bismarck almost made it until the rudder hit...
Wouldn't it have been easier to just paint the black/white markings on the primer then paint over it ?
Maybe so Brad - any way involves a lot of masking.
Hull looks really good, nice job Steve. Will you be using Tamiya paint on the whole model?
Yes that’s the plan - I think sometimes you can get slightly different finishes mixing paint manufacturers
Check the reports by the swordfish pilots.i am sure they state the bow wave and from dark grey was there.
I believe they ran out of time to overpaint all of the hul before leaving norway
Pretty sure they didn't run out of grey. Changing the appearance of a ship that transited from costal waters to oceanic waters was always on the agenda of captains, the British always painted their ships light gray when in the North see. The Merchant raiders where constantly repainted to resemble some other ship. I believe the fake wakes where kept for presenting a harder solution to target for subs. AOB or distance to target, thus speed. (most surface vessels had radar by that time to deteremine accurate range)
Great work nailing the colors! Waiting for the next ep. ❤
Thanks Jerry I’ve just confirmed the scheme having found a photo of the ship leaving Grimstadfjord which confirms the false bow present as well as the wave so I’m glad i did it that way 👍
Looking good, a lot of masking...
Thanks John 👍
Can I please get measurements of how hight up to paint the hull line and the with of the black stripe at all ??
Awesome paint job, is the false bow paint scheme for size deception Steve?
Thanks Andrew - yes I guess it was an attempt to give the impression that the target was smaller and therefore further away. How effective it was I’m not
too sure.