Hi Steve, The PE really makes a difference in the way those bulkheads look. My eyes would definitely be crossed from doing all that at one time. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff
Looks like I'm late to the table! I wouldn't miss this one for anything after watching the HMS Hood build!!! You don't often get to watch a Master Craftsman at work!!! 👍
Hi Steve, good progress, as you say the Pontos upgrade certainly makes this part quite impressive and well worth the effort. Look forward to next episode.
My computer decided to do a freeze up while I was viewing the premier. I just looked at Part 7. The photo etch brings a level of detail well beyond the creation of the original molding. Excellent work. Thank you.
Hi Steve Awesome job. When I did mine I have started to use MigUltra glue for some of the photoetch such as the doors. It takes a few minutes to set and allows me some movement to get things aligned
Hi Steve. Very patient work. You will see when you look at the closeups, that in the second photo, the 3rd porthole has its cover unattached and askew. Just my eye for detail! The extra work has made an incredible difference to the model. Well done.
Steve, once again you never fail to amaze me with your expertise of using photo etch parts. The difference with and without it is like night and day. Hats off to you sir, can't wait for the next installment. Did you drill out all of those port holes before attaching the photo etch or just go with what Trumpeter had done?
Hi Greg I only had to drill out one porthole which was missing from the trumpeter molding and fill another in but apart from those I just covered the molded holes 👍
Lovely work, could you spend some time showing closeups of the Pontos instructions and kit instructions to show how you plan your build. For those of us that haven’t talked full Pontos yet it would be helpful. Understand if you don’t have the time though. It’s looking good!
Nice job on the photo etch Mr shed do you think you might be getting 3D personnel I think that's what I'm going to do in the 200 scale your ship would look fantastic with a crew nice job
Hi Steve once agin your work amazes me absolute craftsmanship and speically how clean it looks at the end. I notice that after glueing the parts on you rub/clean them what are using. What level of super glue are you using as I have trouble with then not adhering to the plastic.
Hi David and thanks. I clean the parts with a fibreglass pen - it removes any unwanted glue and grunge from the brass. for this assembly I’m using Thin and medium grade CA.
Nice job on the photoetch. Have you considered using X-22 as an adhesive? I've had much success using it to adhere flat pieces of etch onto flat surfaces. Once dry it is a remarkably strong bond and so much easier to work with than ca.
Never thought of that - I can see how it would work on flat pieces with a decent surface area but will it hold things like railings with a minute contact area?
@@TheModelShed You'll want to experiment a bit. I haven't tried it with railings. But I've found it bonds much better than I expected. I use it primarily for the tiny flat parts or repairs when I don't want to harm painted surfaces or fog anything. One thing I dislike about my ca is it's unpredictable tack. It seems to grab instantly before proper part placement or slip around forever. X-22 is far more predictable in my experience. It has a superior ductility to ca when dry which gives greater strength on smooth dense surfaces like metal to metal.
Hi Steve. Great vid. Thanks. My Bismarck arrived and I'm ordering some stuff. Could you tell me what paint/colour you will be using for the superstructure so I can order a few jars. Thank you.
Steve - my apologies for such a basic question - what type of pencil are you using to pick up the small PE parts? I love the videos - you build beautiful models.
Just a question --- IF you had two kits one with all the work your doing on the side super structure would you see the difference between OTB and pontos ???
You probably need a eye transplant after that. I don't know how guys can do PE on 1/700 scale ships. It amazes me that there a multiple type of scuttles and riggles in a relatively small area.
Absolute craftsmanship of the highest order. Fabulous work
Thanks John 👍
Steve she looks breathtaking, love your method. See you next week.
Thanks Ken 👍
Et certainement plus dur et long à faire 😎
The level of detail with the Pontos PE is unbelievable. A small part of the Bismark looks like a whole world in the detail photos. 👍💯
Thanks Ralf-Ingo it certainly adds alot to the model 👍
Well done Mr Shed
Cheers Tim 👍
Always a pleasure Steve
Thanks Andrew 👍
Steve
Just a pleasure to follow your work - neat, clean and precise.
Peter
Many thanks Peter 👍
Hi Steve, The PE really makes a difference in the way those bulkheads look. My eyes would definitely be crossed from doing all that at one time. Thanks for sharing. Have a great day. Jeff
Thanks Jeff 👍
Looks like I'm late to the table! I wouldn't miss this one for anything after watching the HMS Hood build!!! You don't often get to watch a Master Craftsman at work!!! 👍
Thank you Kevin 👍
Superb detail, (and patience), very good to watch the process 👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Pete 👍
The detail set just makes it look that much better. Well done!
Agreed Mike - thanks 👍
Excellent as always
Cheers Reese 👍
Great craftsmanship producing very crisp detailing. Good work there Steve.
Thank you Ron 👍
That was a lot of work, looks brill!
Cheers Dave 👍
Steve you make photo etch work effortless
And it has massively enhanced the trumpeter parts
Hats off to you
Thank you Gary 👍
Lovely job with the photo etch. Well done
Cheers Jerry 👍
Steve - great job and a pleasure watching - sorry missed the premier
NP Ralph hope you enjoyed it anyway 👍
Wow, amazing work Steve. That photo etch really makes a difference.
Thanks Evan 👍
Hi Steve, good progress, as you say the Pontos upgrade certainly makes this part quite impressive and well worth the effort. Look forward to next episode.
Thanks Alan I’m certainly pleased with how it’s going and the Mossie too 👍
My computer decided to do a freeze up while I was viewing the premier. I just looked at Part 7. The photo etch brings a level of detail well beyond the creation of the original molding. Excellent work. Thank you.
Thanks Louis 👍
I live in a hot and humid climate and keep my CA in the freezer. Great work as always, superb!
Good tip I was thinking of that as well. 👍
Hi Steve
Awesome job. When I did mine I have started to use MigUltra glue for some of the photoetch such as the doors. It takes a few minutes to set and allows me some movement to get things aligned
Hi Robert I use Mig ultra occasionally - I used it to attach the paravanes to the bulkhead in this episode.
Nice work Steve, you have a lot of patience, I don't know if I could do the same job, well done keep up the good work.
Thanks John 👍
@@TheModelShed Your welcome Steve, I trust you are doing well?
Hi Steve. Very patient work. You will see when you look at the closeups, that in the second photo, the 3rd porthole has its cover unattached and askew. Just my eye for detail! The extra work has made an incredible difference to the model. Well done.
Hi John That’s how it was - I don’t know why it should be detached and stowed on the bulkhead like that but photos confirm it.
@@TheModelShed Odd indeed - but photos don't lie. It just shows your unquestionable dedication to accuracy. Thanks Steve.
… very nice videos…!!! 👍🙂
Thank you Alberto 👍
That's a whole lot of little bits to put on. Nice work.
I’ll count them next time Chris - I wonder how many 🤔
Steve, once again you never fail to amaze me with your expertise of using photo etch parts. The difference with and without it is like night and day. Hats off to you sir, can't wait for the next installment. Did you drill out all of those port holes before attaching the photo etch or just go with what Trumpeter had done?
Hi Greg I only had to drill out one porthole which was missing from the trumpeter molding and fill another in but apart from those I just covered the molded holes 👍
Lovely work, could you spend some time showing closeups of the Pontos instructions and kit instructions to show how you plan your build. For those of us that haven’t talked full Pontos yet it would be helpful. Understand if you don’t have the time though. It’s looking good!
Thanks for the suggestion Chris I’ll hav a think about how to do that 👍
I would love to see you do the. 1/200 Hornet with the B25s for Doolittle raid. That would be incredible.and don't forget the Yamato. Haha
Yes will I’d like to do a carrier next but haven’t decided which one yet 🤔
Nice work, but how do you locate the pe ounce everything is sanded put?
Very neat work, that's an awful lot of PE in a relatively small area...
Thank you 👍
Nice job on the photo etch Mr shed do you think you might be getting 3D personnel I think that's what I'm going to do in the 200 scale your ship would look fantastic with a crew nice job
No I don’t think so Gary I’ve never tried figures on my ship models.
Hi Steve once agin your work amazes me absolute craftsmanship and speically how clean it looks at the end. I notice that after glueing the parts on you rub/clean them what are using. What level of super glue are you using as I have trouble with then not adhering to the plastic.
Hi David and thanks. I clean the parts with a fibreglass pen - it removes any unwanted glue and grunge from the brass. for this assembly I’m using Thin and medium grade CA.
@@TheModelShed HI Steve thanks very much for the assistance and information very much appreciated
Nice job on the photoetch. Have you considered using X-22 as an adhesive? I've had much success using it to adhere flat pieces of etch onto flat surfaces. Once dry it is a remarkably strong bond and so much easier to work with than ca.
Never thought of that - I can see how it would work on flat pieces with a decent surface area but will it hold things like railings with a minute contact area?
@@TheModelShed You'll want to experiment a bit. I haven't tried it with railings. But I've found it bonds much better than I expected. I use it primarily for the tiny flat parts or repairs when I don't want to harm painted surfaces or fog anything. One thing I dislike about my ca is it's unpredictable tack. It seems to grab instantly before proper part placement or slip around forever. X-22 is far more predictable in my experience. It has a superior ductility to ca when dry which gives greater strength on smooth dense surfaces like metal to metal.
Masterclass…
thanks Paul 👍
Hi Steve. Great vid. Thanks.
My Bismarck arrived and I'm ordering some stuff. Could you tell me what paint/colour you will be using for the superstructure so I can order a few jars. Thank you.
Hi Anthony I’m using XF19 sky grey for the superstructure.
Thank you Steve.
Steve - my apologies for such a basic question - what type of pencil are you using to pick up the small PE parts? I love the videos - you build beautiful models.
Just a wax pencil Mark - they’re really cheap and useful for that kind of job.
Just a question --- IF you had two kits one with all the work your doing on the side super structure would you see the difference between OTB and pontos ???
No question Ralph - and you wouldn’t need brilliant eyesight either. They’re night and day and the Pontos is worth the effort.
or is it just the joy of model making
That as well….
Oui. Coulé lui aussi
You probably need a eye transplant after that. I don't know how guys can do PE on 1/700 scale ships. It amazes me that there a multiple type of scuttles and riggles in a relatively small area.
🤪 it is a bit of a test Charlie