Fox Talas Fork Oil Change Part 2
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- How to change the oil in a Fox Talas III fork. This is part 2 of 2.
NOTE: At 10:11 I should have said "spring side" not "damper side"; likewise 10:19 should have said "damper side" not "spring side". The spring side has the bolt with the metal washer.
IMPORTANT NOTE: This service procedure is for 2012 and 2013 Fox Talas forks. The 2014 models have a new damper which is sealed and should not be taken apart without specialized instruction. I will make a video soon on how to change the oil in the 2014 Fox Talas, which is much easier.
Thanks Clint, I had zero confidence servicing my sons fork. I searched forever until I found your video servicing the exact same fork. I followed along with you and rebuilt my sons fork perfectly. Only difference, I replaced the dust seals also.
Nice job!
@KGAspeedMedia, I find the 150mm Talas to be quite smooth, even on small hits. Usually bad seals cause the issue you're describing. I'd change those out (they should only be around $30) the next time you do maintenance. If that doesn't work you may need to send it in to Fox.
Great videos and information - really appreciate you uploading these!
Vinh, it's "Fox Float Fluid" which can be purchased in a 5cc "pillow pack" or in a container. Float Fluid is much more viscous than the green suspension fluid. You need the green 10wt suspension fluid and the float fluid.
KGAspeedMedia, the 32mm Talas 29 with the FIT RLC damper uses 10cc on the spring side and 30cc on the damper side. Look at #26 in the Fox oil volume chart.
Thankyou for the great video, managed to service my fork following your video only sticking point is getting the travel adjuster back on as cant seem to get the screws to go in, trip down to the local lbs in the morning
Clint, great tutorial, I have been wanting to service my own forks for a while. LBS and Fox do a great job but this will save me some cash-o-la for upgrades down the line. Thanks posting :)
I would change the oil like I show in the video and see if that helps. If not, it sounds like you need to take it to a shop or send it back to Fox for a rebuild.
Hi Clint, really nice video bud... If I could make one small recommendation.. In part I and part II I noticed that you were running you brake cable on the outside of the fork... I would recommend to reroute you cable onto the inside of the fork between the leg and wheel... Having it on the outside could result in a snag (bush, tree branch, twig) and damage your brake. Keep up the great videos!
+diabolicallydan thanks. I've since made that change. Actually don't have that bike and fork anymore but on my newer one I did do that. Cheers!
For the oil change you don't need to do anything with the damper side. I recommend sending your fork to Fox once every 12-24 months for a complete overhaul. I usually don't mess with the damper side or the internal parts of the Talas assemblies.
VERY NICE tutorial! Good work, now maybe I can try this on my 2012 Talas aswell.
Great video...I thought you were very thorough. Thanks
Thanks again. I was able to do the job with the help of this vid.
David, I know for the latest Talas forks you don't need the IFP tool. I'm not sure what year that stopped. I'd call Fox and ask them.
well this wasnt what i been looking for but is very informative
In a few months I'm going to make a video on how to do the air sleeve maintenance on the rear shock.
Thank alot!This is amazing tutorial.Any chance u make a video of seals change and maybe a shock oil change?
Clint - thanks for the video - according to Fox's Volume Chart, the air side of the fork needs 30cc of fluid, not 10. I know you can run varying volumes depending on preferences (to achieve differences in bottoming resistance). Just curious why you went with 10cc.
Thanks for this great video.
Question though, no need to disassemble the damper side? Is that the same for non talas forks?
thanks for this detailed video
Then it sounds like it's a compression damping issue. Sounds like calling Fox is a wise move.
I was hoping you'd get into the damper side. I have the 2013 140 talas and at 225 lbs I just blow thru the travel at 110 psi.(max psi) good video though.
I'm missing a few things here. Examples: Why not clean the foam rings and then reoiling them? They look dirty to me. Why not put fork greace on the dust wipers? Why not clean the castings inside carefully? The oil amounts differ for the different fork models...
Robert Licher , you can certainly remove the foam rings and add some oil to them, but it's not necessary. They get lubed with the oil inside the system, and there's not much to do in the way of cleaning them. It's best to just replace them once a year. I do wipe down the inside of the castings with rubbing alcohol. You don't want to put grease on the dust wipers; they are lubed with the fork oil.
Clint Gibbs
That's my point... Why leave dirt in the foam rings and bring that back into the fork? Crushers, foam, rings and wipers should be checked every time and need to be replaced when they are not a okay, not just at a predefined once a year. Use 2-Propanol... and so on... Sorry, your video is a nice effort, but you're not doing it right. ;)
Robert Licher , I will respectfully disagree with you in that I'm "not doing it right". The title and purpose of the video is how to change the oil, not the seals. My goal in making this video and others is to help and encourage riders to do the proper maintenance which often times isn't done because of lack of knowledge and understanding. I'm sure one day I'll make a video on changing the seals. I do make it plain in this video that it's important to check for damage to the seals. If foam rings have a lot of dirt on them (mine didn't) then the seals are probably damaged and the seals and foam rings need to be replaced. That's why I stated in the video that it's a good idea to have seals on hand before starting this.
Clint Gibbs It’s a nice video and a great effort, don’t get me wrong... I clean the Foams every time and then I soak them in fresh Oil before putting them back to place. The Greece is for the inner side of the Wipers and I’m not using it for the foam.
If the seals are okay, I wouldn’t replace them either. But I do have a spare set at home, just in case I need it. ;)
THANK YOU VERY MUCH, THIS WAS USEFUL TO ME :D
Brilliant videos Clint.
I'm away to service a set of 2009/2010 32 talas rlc's. I bought them 2nd hand and want to go in and check they're alright. I used to run a set of 2008 36 Talas's and I needed a IFP tool to repressure that Talas system. Before I go into my 32's, could you tell me please. Do I need an IFP tool to do the 32's?
Thank you
David
Thank for the great info.
Ah, got it - thanks. I have the fork referenced in #52, that's what threw me off. I did the full service today, and lubed it even more than you did with the inner guides, foam rings, etc. But my fork is still terrible - I hate it ('13 CTD Talas OEM fork from a '13 Reign 1). I won't soak up any small hits - the initial travel is way too rigid (and I'm 170 lbs., it's not a lack-of-weight-issue). Sag is correct, etc. Can the Talas damper be the cause? Switch to a Float damper? Suggestions?
Even after 7 yrs this was useful. Thank you. My travel adjustment doesn't work, fork stays in Max travel even when I turn knob to lower setting. What should I do?
If I were you I would send it back to Fox, especially if it's been a year or two since you've changed the oil. There are circuits within the travel adjust components that need to be serviced by Fox.
@@ClintGibbs Called fox today. They said they don't service talas forks anymore. Thanks for reply.
@@Astracygnus really? I guess they've just totally done away with them. Kind of surprised by that.
@@ClintGibbs yes I was surprised too.
you should always change the seals and wipers when you do an oil change
That would be too much. Fox recommends changing the oil every 30 hours of riding. If you ride often that's about once a month. That would get very expensive. I think seals should be changed once a year.
Nice constructive video! well explained!
My talas 32 120-150's seem to have stopped popping up when going from 120-150mm on the travel adjuster, you actually have to pull the uppers and lowers apart gently to get the travel to extend, i noticed a little of the green fluid coming from the talas adjuster when the fork was sat upside down for a while so obviously a seal needs replacing, is there anything else that could be causing the forks to not pop up before i start dismantling things? cheers!
I would just do the routine service like I showed and see how it goes. And then if that doesn't solve it there may be an issue with the talas adjustment system and you would need to send it back to Fox.
+Clint Gibbs Thanks for that, shall give it a service and see what happens!
7:50 nice fork
Thjank you, great ...
hoi clint, a very useful video as i am going to do this for the first time on a tales fork. can i leave all the damper settings as i ride them or do i have to put all the settings to fully open before disassembly?
I don't change the damper settings
You mention flow fluid, is that suspension fluid?
Hi Clint. Great video! Very helpful. Question for you. I have a Fox Float X Trail Tune. It is the stock fork on my 06 Gary Fisher Cake 1 DLX. Is the replacement of fluid on the air side similar to this video? I have the Fox manual but the directions are not clear (no pictures or videos available). Thanks in advance!
Dan, I wish I could give you a solid answer but I've never worked on the Float X fork. Is that the one with the inertia valve?
two things
did you install the spring in the right direction?
i would bleed them out and use the seperate fluids
fox gold
and fox damper fluid
its looking like the green maybe fazed out.
I have an issue... I've done mine exactly the same but it doesn't wanna hold air?
how to solve the course adjustment problem , my tallas are the same as this one turning the knob does not change the course
It's not a seal issue; I'm sure - problem seems much bigger. I'll call Fox and see. The fork feels as if I have 100psi in my tire, or worse.
Clint, Great video. I have the same fork on a 2013 niner Jet 9. it has started knocking on top out rebound. If I adjust the travel from 120 to 95 and compress a bunch of times and then turn back to full travel ,it seems to temporarily go away, as also slowing rebound seems to help a little, only to come back. It holds air and has no oil leaks. I will try to start with oil change as that will be cheapest, and see if that does anything. I have called Fox and they do not make parts for this fork, so if it is more involved I am not sure what to do. Do you have experience with top out knocking? or any thoughts on my problem?
Thanks,
jeff
I did not have that problem. But it's been several years since I've owned Talas fork. I think you're on the right track. If it still does it after the oil change send it to Fox for full rebuild.
What’s the name of that Green suspension fluid?
just did this on my bike
i'm thinking to do oil change in 2 weeks but am i understand correct?you use one oil in the all off the fork.
of the fork
Usually, but you always want to check with the manufacturer and the exact fork to see what type of oil you put in.
@Kevin Gorzny, you probably already know this now :) but 2013 fox CTD forks had lots of problems with the damper, I also have 2013 Reign 1 and the damper had to get replaced (via warranty), and it's ok now.
Clint Gibbs many thanks for making these videos. About to do my first service on my forks and shock, and your videos help a lot. The only thing I wasn't keen on was using the hammer on the damper cap. Another video I watched used a drift, which seemed safer: ua-cam.com/video/eh-sIrnC8xs/v-deo.html
I have the same fork but I have a problem. The fork goes down but never returns to the original position if I’m over the bike.
I saw the air conector and there was a little tear of oil.
Do you what could solve this problem?
Sounds like an issue with the damper. That may require your fork going to Fox for a spa treatment.
Clint Gibbs hello? It’s fox?
Yes this is fox....
SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY!!!
Hahaha thank you bro I will try to contact them
mi talas is from 2009 fox talas 36 it will not chaeg travel . help pls
Hey ! 2013 32 Talas 26" 140-150 (O/C CTD damper) i se on fox help site that you should use 10wt RED or 20WT GOLD, and you are using 10wt green?
I haven’t had this fork in a long time so I can’t really remember the different oil that I used. I just know back then I looked on Fox‘s website and used the recommended oil and volume. They seem to change their recommendations over the years so I would just go what their latest recommendation is for your particular fork.
@@ClintGibbs thx
Bro que año es ese fork
I have a question Clint. I´m using a 2012 Talas 150 FIT RL fork which I gonna change oil, dust wipers ands seals in. On FOX.s webside it says that the fork will use 35.2 ml of FOX Red 10wt oil in the "damper" side but you are only using Fox fluid and the green oil. Where the hell am I suppose to put the red oil? Is the red oil unnecessary? Thanks!
Perkolajnen , I believe that the Red 10 weight oil is for breaking open the FIT damper system, which I don't recommend. That's something that you only need to have done every 100 hours of riding, and I recommend sending the fork back to Fox to have that done. And BTW the 2014 Talas forks have a sealed TALAS system too which is serviced also every 100 hours. For the basic 30 hour oil change you just need the green oil and the float fluid. Call Fox and verify that this is correct. Post a comment letting me know if that's correct.
Yes that does indeed seems to be the case. red oil in the FIT cartridge. Finally found a service instruction for the FIT damper and yes, they are using the red oil there.
2013 use 20 weight in main chanber
@ clint :
I want to change fox oli for fox talas 36 160 - FIT RLC (year 2012). Do i can use same method with your video? Tq
I'm pretty sure the same method applies but I would see if you can find any instructions on Fox's website to verify.
Clint Gibbs :
Thanks Clint for your replay. 👍🏻👍🏻
Mr gibbs, what happens if i only change the oil ie 8:09 pour the oil in. just change it. Does that help to keep the suspension running good or is it pointless if i dont change/inspect the washers and dont use the fox float fluid. what happens if i just change the regular 10 wt oil?
You can do that and it will be better than not changing the oil at all. Just make sure you really clean the stanchion tubes well. Unless you seals are more than 2 years old they're most likely still good. But I would try to change the float fluid every other time you do this service. I find that having enough float fluid makes the biggest difference in how smooth the fork feels.
Clint Gibbs Awesome Mr gibbs i really appreciate the replys and the video
No problem!
i usually just spray some WD-40 or some othher lub on the forks, is that ok? because it's kinda a very detailled process and it's hard to me .
fernando pereira , I would not put lube on the fork stanchion tubes. That will attract dirt which could work it's way into the seals. If you do the air sleeve maintenance on the rear shock and the oil change on the front shock at the appropriate intervals, that will take care of any lube.
Don't do that. Never use WD-40 on your fork!
Hello, I have a fox 32 Float Talas fork in a Cannondale trail 4 frame. Q: How do you get the "stuck" fork out of the frame? I know its got a tapered neck but, it does not matter how much i pull or push, the forks neck wont even budge. Any idea? use a rubber mallet and cover the forks neck? use WD40 to loosen it? Any other idea? Thank you.
So it won’t drop out after you remove the stem and spacers? If so, I would take the steerer tube and wiggle it back-and-forth with your hands. Then take a rubber mallet and tap the top of the steerer tube
@@ClintGibbs I will try that thank you. Do i need a tool other than a rubber mallet do you think? Thank you.
Adam F. Just a mallet and hex wrenches to loosen the stem
Clint Gibbs got it out lol and got my new fox36 thanks.
Adam F. 👍
Hi Gibbs,
Need help. I have a 36 Talas 2013 model, open bath. I got a leak on the right top cap...the one with the travel adjust knob. What's to do?
If it's leaking around the cap then you may just have a bad o-ring on the cap. I would first try ordering an o-ring from your shop, then break down the fork and do a basic oil change, replacing that o-ring. If it continues to leak then you may have an issue with the Talas assembly and that would require sending it back to Fox.
Hi Gibbs. The fork work great, the travel adjustment works just fine, no lag, no noise. When i push it hard on the track it spills a few drops. I think that it has a bad o'ring or needs to be refited an tighten again.
Clint Gibbs So in the end was just a bad o'ring. Super easy fix.
Good!
Bro what year is this fork
I think it was a 2011 or 2012 fork. Fox doesn't even make those anymore!
2013
Did recommendations change since the video was made?
002-2013 Bath Oil Volume Chart
www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=530
2013 34 26", 27.5" (650b) TALAS 160 (FIT CTD damper)
20wt. Gold Damper-side oil bath 30cc
Spring-side oil bath 15cc
Bath Oil volume chart states 20w Gold, not 10w Green.
Also, if you have them apart, why not soak the foam rings in float fluid as recommended?
I think they did. Always use the latest specs on their website. I’ve seen them change before.
Ok, thanks!