Washing the foam rings under the seals out with fresh oil and making sure they're soaked with clean oil before reassembling the fork is a good idea too. If you don't leave your fork upside down for an hour or two before riding it, the seals and fork bushings won't be lubricated (They'll get some oil while you're adding the oil to the lowers but it's better to have the oil where it's needed before the lowers go on). Fox recommend inverting the fork regularly to ensure these rings and the bushings stay wet.
This video is brilliant! Shows every step very clearly, I feel like I could go and do it now... Sadly, I don't have a Fox fork. Keep the great videos coming!
Yes, Reuben, this should be the same procedure for other Fox Float forks (that's a tongue twister). Just make sure you check the charts for the correct oil volumes.
quick tip,when cleaning the lowers and dust wipers put it facing down,that will prevents to introduce little rocks,sand or whatever dust wipers catch into the lowers the moment the paper or clean rag comes inside to clean the used oil ,i noted this in one or my cheap forks when it started to show scratches,i wonder what would be the cause due to the recent maintenance so i ended dismounting lowers again and could indeed see little particles, i clean it again taking special attencion to face ir down and use a clean paper any time i clean inside the lowers,after that i had no more problems, for good luck it happened on my cheap bike's fork but this little tip could save your fork from bad functioning and rough stanchion scratches . btw good video i like alot the details on oil volumes and torque specs good job :D
Clint fox oil change for their float forks has increased from 30 hours to 125 hours or 12 months whichever comes first this applies for their 2014 to 2016 forks float only
yes, I actually had a conversation with a technician at Fox about that. What they found was that people were not sending in their forks annually for the full maintenance. So now, unless you ride in harsh conditions, they say it's okay to not do routine oil changes and just send your fork in once a year for a full service. But the technician did say it's still best practice to change your oil every 30 to 50 hours.
What torque wrench do you use, the reason I am asking is because I am having trouble finding one that has Newton Meters and not Inch Per Pound. And thanks for posting the video on how you made your bike to a 1x10, lovin the videos!
Michael Daubert Yes, Fox has changed their recommendation for oil. That's why it's good to check their website before changing the oil. You can use both. The last time I did my oil change I used their recommendation for the gold oil.
Very informative video, thanks a lot! Some days ago I bought a service-needing 2012 36 Float R fork. (Payed 30 bucks, so I thought why not give it a try) The problem is that about half the length of the stanchion tubes can be pressed down, then it gets harder and the last 4 cm are impossible to press in. If I release all the air, the stanchions go all the way down until about 2 cm rest on the top. Weird is the fact that the fork still looks like unused. Optically no damage at all! Anybody knows this problem?
I gotta do this afer every 30-50hours of ride? I mean, the "old" oil coming out doesn't even look black at all. I ride at least 3-4 hours each time I hit the trails.I don't think doing all this every 10 ride is necessary. Just get some stanchion spray and soft brush to brush off dirt from the wiper seal and apply the stanchion oil , push down on the bike and a few times and wipe the dirt off. apply around round of oil, wipe off and you're good to go. You can do a thorough oil change maybe 2x per season but not every 30 hours.
On the newer Forks, which came out after I made this video, fox changed their MO regarding service. Now they just want you to send the fork back once a year. Kind of pushing you towards them doing the service instead of you. But I still change my fork oil about every 3 to 6 months.
Hey, i hope you can help me! I own the Giant trance 2 with a Fox Float CTD Evo. fork. How much and what oil do i have to use? I cant find anything about 2014 models :( And my damper (Fox Float evo) is making little sounds and there is a little oil film on the damper. Is that normal (my bike is brand new)... Thanks for your answer! PS: Your videos are really good and cause of you i bought my bike :D
4freeskier , give Fox a call at 1-800-369-7469 and ask them what oil volumes are needed for your fork. I don't know why they haven't updated their oil volume charts for 2014 models. It's quite frustrating. They've gone to a new system of getting out technical info but it's not near as in-depth as the earlier stuff.
The numbers on the side of the fork are simply reference for where you set that plate to thread in your axle. Since the quick release needs to be at a certain angle you have to adjust that plate to get it there. I know that sounds confusing but it's really simple. You simply just turn that so that you can get your quick release lever at the angle you want. Then you can use those numbers to reference for future. Other than that they don't mean anything
Thanks! I have a question for you: What do you think about spraying lower legs with alcohol inside and then spraying hot water inside to clean up everything perfectly. I red this tip from somewhere...
Jcool721 , that sounds like it would work as long as you dry the inside of the lowers well before reassembly. Just don't use water that's too hot b/c you wouldn't want to damage the seals.
Thanks for the helpful video. I drained the oil from my fork and found a loose gasket or seal in the bottom of my staunchion tube. I'm not sure how to deal with this other than contacting Fox for a replacement seal, but this part of the fork looks difficult to service. Or perhaps I can simply reset with a wooden dowel (wishful thinking?). Any suggestions?
+Steve L the fork seals are taken out by prying them out with an open-ended wrench. They're placed back in by pushing them in with your hands. It's not super easy but it can be done without any tools. The seals are not very expensive so if I were you I would order some from your local shop.
Sorry, I wasn't clear in my question. I meant to say that the rubber ring was in the bottom of the lowers, not the stanchion tube. Anyway, I was able to reset with a wooden dowel. Now my new problem is that after I serviced both the fork and rear suspension (new seals, oil and float fluid), air leaks from each one. You can hear a slight "woosh" of air rushing from each shock when applying downward force to the bike. I did not measure any torques, so maybe that's my issue with my fork? I hand-tightened the rear shock without a wrench as suggested in your video. There are no scratches on the finish that I can see. The seals appear to fit properly on each cylinder.
Are you 100% sure there is air leaking when you compress the suspension? Because that noise that you described, if it's what I think it is, is normal. It's the sound of the oil moving through the damping circuits. Check your air pressures with a shock pump. Remember that when you hook up the shock pump you lose 5 to 10 psi as air goes into the shock pump.
Ah, that makes sense that some of the air in the shock would be lost to the pump. That's probably what the issue is. Just by the feel of the shock after leaving it overnight, it does not seem like it is losing air. I'm relieved to hear that that sound is normal after all that work!
+Steve L If it's been awhile since you've change the oil you may not have had the proper oil volume. Now that you've done the service the damping circuits should be working properly.
I don't have time to tear into the FIT dampers. Your better off just sending it back to Fox unless you have time to do it. I think there's a pretty good tutorial video on their website.
Hi, Is it possible to do this without removing the fork from bike? I get that it may be easier dealing with the fork but is that offset with the time of removing it?? Thanks, Bart
Absolutely, especially if you are using a work stand to hold the bike. You will still have to remove the brake caliper. When it comes time to dump this float fluid out the top you would have to remove the bike from the work stand to dump it out but that's pretty easy. I actually thought about making a video showing how to do this service without taking the for off the bike.
Hello Clint Gibbs. I recently did the maintenance of my FOX Float Evolution fork with remote CTD (climb, trail, descent modes). I changed the oil of the lower legs (30 ml of 20 wt gold oil in each side), also change the air chamber (5 ml of fluid FOX) and the damper oil too (74 ml of 20 wt oil). However after re-assembly of fork the CTD don't work anymore. The suspension does not switch to the trail or lock mode. Apparently it's work in descent mode only, all the time. I have no FOX assistance in here, in my town. I live in Brazil so I'll have some problem to find some FOX service. What did I do wrong? Any tips? Can you help me?
So sorry to hear about that. I've never had that issue. But I also don't mess with the damper side when I change the oil. I just change the oil in the lowers and change the float fluid on top of the air spring. So unfortunately I don't have any experience to help you out with it. You may end up just having to send it back the Fox for an overhaul. The only thing that you can do is just go through the process again and see if that helps it. Let me know how it goes.
@@scibierhomebreweryHi I have experienced the same issue - rebound and lockout no longer working after an oil and seals service. Did you discover why yours had stopped working and how you got it to work? I know this request to you is a long shot as this thread is quite old but hopefully you can reply to me.
I have a sunyour xct for my giant rincon disc and i am wondering when and how to maintenance my shock to make it last longer.......any tips.... The bike was given by my dad so it is very important to me
Patrick Flores , I have never worked on Suntour forks. I would try to find tech info on their website or see if there are any videos out there on it. If all else fails take it to your local shop. As far as service intervals any fork needs to be serviced at a minimum once a year.
If need to sap out the cartridge/damper on the right side due to it not going into Trail mode....I can just take the top cap off and pull out the cartridge...correct?
I think so, but its been awhile since I've done that. I would call Fox just to verify. Or they may even have some tech documents/videos on their website.
My dad was doing this and for some reason took off the right side cap, now if you want to set it to + or - the whole cap moves and makes a clicking sound, any ideas on how to fix it?
VNIMAL , I have not removed the damper side cap on the 2014 forks so I can't give recommendations. Make sure the adjuster knob on top was put back on correctly. You may want to give Fox a call and see if they can give some advice. If not, a trip to the local bike shop my be necessary. The damper side is usually something I leave to Fox whenever I ship a fork back for a full annual service.
Washing the foam rings under the seals out with fresh oil and making sure they're soaked with clean oil before reassembling the fork is a good idea too. If you don't leave your fork upside down for an hour or two before riding it, the seals and fork bushings won't be lubricated (They'll get some oil while you're adding the oil to the lowers but it's better to have the oil where it's needed before the lowers go on). Fox recommend inverting the fork regularly to ensure these rings and the bushings stay wet.
peglor thank for this information. I just serviced mine and it feels much smoother now and I will try doing what you say because it makes sense
This video is brilliant! Shows every step very clearly, I feel like I could go and do it now... Sadly, I don't have a Fox fork.
Keep the great videos coming!
Toilet Sock UH-gree!
Y u watching a video about fox forks den
Yes, Reuben, this should be the same procedure for other Fox Float forks (that's a tongue twister). Just make sure you check the charts for the correct oil volumes.
People really do this every 30 hours. I just do the annual service. But great video, very detailed.
quick tip,when cleaning the lowers and dust wipers put it facing down,that will prevents to introduce little rocks,sand or whatever dust wipers catch into the lowers the moment the paper or clean rag comes inside to clean the used oil ,i noted this in one or my cheap forks when it started to show scratches,i wonder what would be the cause due to the recent maintenance so i ended dismounting lowers again and could indeed see little particles, i clean it again taking special attencion to face ir down and use a clean paper any time i clean inside the lowers,after that i had no more problems, for good luck it happened on my cheap bike's fork but this little tip could save your fork from bad functioning and rough stanchion scratches . btw good video i like alot the details on oil volumes and torque specs good job :D
Good tip, thanks.
Fantastic video Clint! I have pretty much the same bike and fork. Coming up to the first 30 hour service interval now so this has been a big help!
From Indonesia
Wow great videos
Detail explanation...step by step
Thank you bro..
BR
Anthem rider...
Very informative and clear. Thank you.
Clint fox oil change for their float forks has increased from 30 hours to 125 hours or 12 months whichever comes first this applies for their 2014 to 2016 forks float only
yes, I actually had a conversation with a technician at Fox about that. What they found was that people were not sending in their forks annually for the full maintenance. So now, unless you ride in harsh conditions, they say it's okay to not do routine oil changes and just send your fork in once a year for a full service. But the technician did say it's still best practice to change your oil every 30 to 50 hours.
Thanks for that Clint much appreciated
Great video really well done thank you
Great video thanks!
Hey Clint, will this be the same procedure for any fox float forks? Thanks your videos are great.
nice video, thanks a lot
air side and non-air side? or drive side and non-drive side ?
What torque wrench do you use, the reason I am asking is because I am having trouble finding one that has Newton Meters and not Inch Per Pound.
And thanks for posting the video on how you made your bike to a 1x10, lovin the videos!
I use the one made by Park Tool that goes up to about 13 Newton meters. It's small and perfect for most bicycle bolts
You do know you can just google newton meter to inch pounds and convert it.
Whats the difference between the fox 10wt green and "new" 20wt gold bath oil? I've heard you're now suppose to use the gold in the forks?
+Michael Daubert Good question...I'd like to know as well.
Michael Daubert Yes, Fox has changed their recommendation for oil. That's why it's good to check their website before changing the oil. You can use both. The last time I did my oil change I used their recommendation for the gold oil.
Very informative video, thanks a lot!
Some days ago I bought a service-needing 2012 36 Float R fork. (Payed 30 bucks, so I thought why not give it a try)
The problem is that about half the length of the stanchion tubes can be pressed down, then it gets harder and the last 4 cm are impossible to press in. If I release all the air, the stanchions go all the way down until about 2 cm rest on the top. Weird is the fact that the fork still looks like unused. Optically no damage at all!
Anybody knows this problem?
Did you find out the problem?
I gotta do this afer every 30-50hours of ride? I mean, the "old" oil coming out doesn't even look black at all. I ride at least 3-4 hours each time I hit the trails.I don't think doing all this every 10 ride is necessary. Just get some stanchion spray and soft brush to brush off dirt from the wiper seal and apply the stanchion oil , push down on the bike and a few times and wipe the dirt off. apply around round of oil, wipe off and you're good to go. You can do a thorough oil change maybe 2x per season but not every 30 hours.
On the newer Forks, which came out after I made this video, fox changed their MO regarding service. Now they just want you to send the fork back once a year. Kind of pushing you towards them doing the service instead of you. But I still change my fork oil about every 3 to 6 months.
Can we put that blue liquid fox in the lowers too or it is mandatory to put that green?? Also great job!
I always follow the recommendation of Fox for the proper color and weight of the oil
@@ClintGibbstank you a lot🙂
Hey, i hope you can help me!
I own the Giant trance 2 with a Fox Float CTD Evo. fork. How much and what oil do i have to use? I cant find anything about 2014 models :(
And my damper (Fox Float evo) is making little sounds and there is a little oil film on the damper. Is that normal (my bike is brand new)...
Thanks for your answer!
PS: Your videos are really good and cause of you i bought my bike :D
4freeskier , give Fox a call at 1-800-369-7469 and ask them what oil volumes are needed for your fork. I don't know why they haven't updated their oil volume charts for 2014 models. It's quite frustrating. They've gone to a new system of getting out technical info but it's not near as in-depth as the earlier stuff.
05:00 Hi what do these numbers represent? Does this black part have a fucnction accoring to the numbers
The numbers on the side of the fork are simply reference for where you set that plate to thread in your axle. Since the quick release needs to be at a certain angle you have to adjust that plate to get it there. I know that sounds confusing but it's really simple. You simply just turn that so that you can get your quick release lever at the angle you want. Then you can use those numbers to reference for future. Other than that they don't mean anything
Thanks! I have a question for you: What do you think about spraying lower legs with alcohol inside and then spraying hot water inside to clean up everything perfectly. I red this tip from somewhere...
Jcool721 , that sounds like it would work as long as you dry the inside of the lowers well before reassembly. Just don't use water that's too hot b/c you wouldn't want to damage the seals.
Thanks!!
Hi, is this process the same for fox float forks from 2008? Or have fox changed their forks so much over the years it would be a different procedure?
Thanks for the helpful video. I drained the oil from my fork and found a loose gasket or seal in the bottom of my staunchion tube. I'm not sure how to deal with this other than contacting Fox for a replacement seal, but this part of the fork looks difficult to service. Or perhaps I can simply reset with a wooden dowel (wishful thinking?). Any suggestions?
+Steve L the fork seals are taken out by prying them out with an open-ended wrench. They're placed back in by pushing them in with your hands. It's not super easy but it can be done without any tools. The seals are not very expensive so if I were you I would order some from your local shop.
Sorry, I wasn't clear in my question. I meant to say that the rubber ring was in the bottom of the lowers, not the stanchion tube. Anyway, I was able to reset with a wooden dowel. Now my new problem is that after I serviced both the fork and rear suspension (new seals, oil and float fluid), air leaks from each one. You can hear a slight "woosh" of air rushing from each shock when applying downward force to the bike. I did not measure any torques, so maybe that's my issue with my fork? I hand-tightened the rear shock without a wrench as suggested in your video. There are no scratches on the finish that I can see. The seals appear to fit properly on each cylinder.
Are you 100% sure there is air leaking when you compress the suspension? Because that noise that you described, if it's what I think it is, is normal. It's the sound of the oil moving through the damping circuits. Check your air pressures with a shock pump. Remember that when you hook up the shock pump you lose 5 to 10 psi as air goes into the shock pump.
Ah, that makes sense that some of the air in the shock would be lost to the pump. That's probably what the issue is. Just by the feel of the shock after leaving it overnight, it does not seem like it is losing air. I'm relieved to hear that that sound is normal after all that work!
+Steve L If it's been awhile since you've change the oil you may not have had the proper oil volume. Now that you've done the service the damping circuits should be working properly.
Curious as to what's involved with the maintenance / rebuild of the FIT damper then?
I don't have time to tear into the FIT dampers. Your better off just sending it back to Fox unless you have time to do it. I think there's a pretty good tutorial video on their website.
Also will the amount of oil used change between forks?
Hi, Is it possible to do this without removing the fork from bike? I get that it may be easier dealing with the fork but is that offset with the time of removing it??
Thanks, Bart
Absolutely, especially if you are using a work stand to hold the bike. You will still have to remove the brake caliper. When it comes time to dump this float fluid out the top you would have to remove the bike from the work stand to dump it out but that's pretty easy. I actually thought about making a video showing how to do this service without taking the for off the bike.
I have a 2011 32 F100 RL fork. I'm fairly new to mountain biking. Will this video be the same for my fork (except for oils etc.) Thanks!
Yes, it should be about the same. Just check Fox website for oil volumes.
Hello Clint Gibbs. I recently did the maintenance of my FOX Float Evolution fork with remote CTD (climb, trail, descent modes). I changed the oil of the lower legs (30 ml of 20 wt gold oil in each side), also change the air chamber (5 ml of fluid FOX) and the damper oil too (74 ml of 20 wt oil). However after re-assembly of fork the CTD don't work anymore. The suspension does not switch to the trail or lock mode. Apparently it's work in descent mode only, all the time. I have no FOX assistance in here, in my town. I live in Brazil so I'll have some problem to find some FOX service. What did I do wrong? Any tips? Can you help me?
So sorry to hear about that. I've never had that issue. But I also don't mess with the damper side when I change the oil. I just change the oil in the lowers and change the float fluid on top of the air spring. So unfortunately I don't have any experience to help you out with it. You may end up just having to send it back the Fox for an overhaul. The only thing that you can do is just go through the process again and see if that helps it. Let me know how it goes.
Thank you for help and tip. I'll review my steps in the process and try figureout what happens. Thanks any way.
@@scibierhomebreweryHi I have experienced the same issue - rebound and lockout no longer working after an oil and seals service. Did you discover why yours had stopped working and how you got it to work? I know this request to you is a long shot as this thread is quite old but hopefully you can reply to me.
I have a sunyour xct for my giant rincon disc and i am wondering when and how to maintenance my shock to make it last longer.......any tips....
The bike was given by my dad so it is very important to me
Patrick Flores , I have never worked on Suntour forks. I would try to find tech info on their website or see if there are any videos out there on it. If all else fails take it to your local shop. As far as service intervals any fork needs to be serviced at a minimum once a year.
If need to sap out the cartridge/damper on the right side due to it not going into Trail mode....I can just take the top cap off and pull out the cartridge...correct?
I think so, but its been awhile since I've done that. I would call Fox just to verify. Or they may even have some tech documents/videos on their website.
А какое масло нужно заливать в штаны?
do you use grease on the seals?
No. They are lubed by the float fluid.
My dad was doing this and for some reason took off the right side cap, now if you want to set it to + or - the whole cap moves and makes a clicking sound, any ideas on how to fix it?
VNIMAL , I have not removed the damper side cap on the 2014 forks so I can't give recommendations. Make sure the adjuster knob on top was put back on correctly. You may want to give Fox a call and see if they can give some advice. If not, a trip to the local bike shop my be necessary. The damper side is usually something I leave to Fox whenever I ship a fork back for a full annual service.
Clint Gibbs Yeah I had it working for abit then it stopped again, thanks anyway, mate
VNIMAL no worries. Let me know if I can do anything else to help.
Clint Gibbs The cap is stripped so it's not going on evenly : ( I'm gonna file it down abit
The 29" need 30 and 160
Don't know why he calls them crush washers if they don't really crush, they are just washers.
+TheFightaz that's what Fox calls them. But actually they are nylon and they do expand a bit when you tighten the nut.
How much oil you put 20 mm or 30 mm
You need to check the oil volume chart on Fox's website. Each of their Forks takes different volumes depending on the travel and the model.
L