Man, I don't get why you only have this amount of views at this moment but I would like to express my huge thank you for uploading such extensive and detailed video. I also just watched the one for the DPX2 and it helped me a lot. I don't have 2 left hands but never tempted on servicing these things myself. Now, with this as backup evidence, I would potentially risk it and try it out. Again, thanks!
Thanks for the comment myman! As long as the videos help those who are interested in performing jobs like these on their own, is more than enough for me. If you have any questions or concerns just let me know and thanks for the support. 👍
Thank you sir! One question though, I did the lower leg service and swopped air shaft (130->140) on my fox 34 Grip2 fork. I followed your instructions but must have made some kind of mistake. When I compress my fork I hear a squishy sound (similar to a liquid passing a small passage). This sound was not there before the service. I have not ridden my bike much after the service due to weather conditions. Maybe it will go away? I compressed the fork roughly 20 times without it stopping. Do you know what might be the reason for the squishy sound and how I can get rid of it? Thank you in advance!
Apologies for the late response. Just so I'm sure, the squishy noise is coming from the air side, not the damper side, right? if it's coming from the air side, check for suckup and make sure the shaft isn't pulling up at rest. It's possible that there is some grease stuck in the transfer port. This should clear up, but if it doesn't, you might have to service the air spring again. Take it for a few rides and see if the noise goes away. If the noise is on the damper side, that's a whole different story. Keep me updated if you can 👍
Great as always, thanks ! 2 questions, i did a fork and when i released the air pressure it was all neg. Pressure (collapsed down completely).it looked like yours did the same. I know it was assembled properly. What is causing that ? Operator error, bad fork…..??? When soaking the sponge rings of the lowers in oil would it be better or necessary to soak them in different oils being there is different oils in the lowers?? Thumbs up thanks!!!
Thanks for the comment. Air moving back and forth between the positive and negative chambers is normal. What happens sometimes is that the port that allows this can get blocked by grease. If too much air gets trapped in the negative chamber, it will end up sitting above the port. One way to solve this is by manually extending the fork until the air side piston gets pulled below the port, which will allow air to move to the positive chamber. You will hear a hissing sound when this happens. This can be hard to do sometimes, and you might need to remove the front wheel and use the axle with your foot while holding the crown to pull them apart. Sometimes it takes a few tries. Otherwise, you will have to service the air spring and properly set it, which is an easy job to do As for the damper foam ring on a grip fork. Per Fox Service Department, The foam ring should be soaked in 20wt oil as 20wt oil is much better at trapping dirt than 5wt. The foam ring has two jobs, one of which is to help lubricate, and the other is to collect dirt (this is why a 50-hour service is so important, remove dirt that has been collected by the foam rings). 5wt oil is nowhere near as effective at trapping dirt as 20wt. Also, per FOX, a foam ring soaked in 20wt has no effect on the 5wt oil in the stanchion. Hopefully, this helps
Hi and thanks for the impressive video. At the 23 minute mark you use the paper towel to absorb oil coming from the damper side. Wish I had known this to keep things tidy. Also considering that oil loss from the damper side I'm wondering if I have to service the damper side or at least remove to replace the lost fluid.
I feel you myman. I learned that lesson the hard way years ago. All the remain oil absorbed into the carpet I left it on. The oil than comes out is residual from the lower legs. when you assemble the fork you will end up filling the lower legs with oil before closing them up. No need to worry about it 👍
Thanks. one good indicator is noise. if you hear squishing, squeaky, swooshing noises (especially on a hard fast impacts), if the fork feels like it sticking, then chances are it needs service. by 200 hours it should be service, but that doesn't mean you should wait until around 200 hours. in some cases it might need service way before that
What kind of torque wrench do you use? I struggle a bit getting the whole specter of crowfoot spanners that fits mine, and also not easy getting a wrench starting with torque at 0 and beyond 30.
I have snapon AtechFR torque wrenches. I bought them a long time ago for different purposes. They are complete overkill for this application as they are literally meant for the aircraft industry, so I don't recommend people buy them as they are expensive. but still, they do make the best torque wrenches by far, and they truly are a "for life" product. so there is some value there if you use them on other stuff as well There are many options out here for low torque ranges in both click style and digital. I like digital and it stays accurate longer than click, as long as they get impacted hard. but they are expensive. for bikes: Tekton makes a good bang for the buck torque wrench. www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=asc_df_B00C5ZL2EG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7597802535824491848&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016979&hvtargid=pla-2281435179578&mcid=6d3b393ae80a3febbd0d35a8c50c4c16&hvocijid=7597802535824491848-B00C5ZL2EG-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1 To give you an idea of price range, the snap on click equivalent is part number QD1R200A, which is over $300 new. as for crows feet you can get an adjustable crowfoot, or you can buy them individually and buy the actually sizes you need Hopefully this helps some
Great video, very concise and informative on the procedure. Have you ever done the 2021+ VVC Grip2's? I used the factory service guide, but the instructions for the rebound assembly are missing some photos, and do a bad job explaining. It would be great to have a video if you ever have one to work on.
Glad to hear you found the video informative. IF memory serves me correct, The VVC version doesn't have any seals that need to be replaced in the actually hsr and hsr assembly. If you take it apart its only to clean it, which isn't worth the effort imo. just leave it as a whole. I will definitely make a video on it. It's just a question of timing.
Like the video very much clean easy to follow maybe a few links to the tools would be good. Might make some money for you if on affiliate’s. Thanks for the time an effort to make a great video
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful for you. I tried an affiliate program but was rejected because I didn't meet some of the requirements, which I honestly didn't even know I needed. The plan is to set it up again soon. Either way, videos will keep coming! 👍
Thanks to your video I just completed a complete rebuild of my Fox 36 Factory. There's a few slight differences as I have the Grip 2 VVC damper but pretty easy to figure it out with your detailed instructions and the fox service manual.
Outstanding Job Myman! 🦾👏👏 Yup Very minor difference between the two. I will eventually be making a video on the VVC version, but for now it sounds like you are good to go! Now go out there and pound that beast! 👍
Seriously, this has gotta be the best rebuild video for the Grip 2 that exists, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! Do you have any plans to do a video for rebuilding the Grip2 VVC Rebound Piston assembly? Fox's guide has some rather hard to follow instructions for tightening the assembly with a 0.030 shim, and I can't seem to find anywhere that has a good guide for that. Either way, your stuff is awesome!
Thank you very for such kind words, as well as for taking your time to watch the video. My plan is to make detailed videos like this for as many forks and shocks as possible. It's just a question of time when I get to certain models and years. But We'll get there. 👍
This is definitely the best video I have ever found, precise and accurate... well done... Just one question, I have to do maintenance on a 2022 FOX 34 Grip2.... where can I find the correct spare parts codes, just to make sure I buy the right kits? Thanks and greetings from Italy....
Thank you very much for the kind words. glad to hear you found the video informative. send me the forks tune ID and I get your the parts number for all 3 kits. I'll have time tomorrow to do this.
Apologies for such a delayed response, but this one slipped through the cracks. One is a Metric 8mm x 1.00 FINE thread and the other is a 10mm x 1.00 EXTRA FINE thread. I'll make sure to add it in the description as well. Hope this helps.
Hi, Probably the best video for 36 FIX service..One question: What kind of support do you use to clamp the pieces in the vice? Can you provide the part number?" thank you
Thank myman. glad you enjoyed it. I believe your asking about the softjaws I have many pairs but the ones I use the most are the following. they are a bit pricey imo, but they are great quality, laser printing is clear and they come with magnets www.ebay.com/itm/115153412361?var=415219180268 This guys also makes quality quality stuff but no magnets, which is a shame imo www.ebay.com/str/bikewcm you can save some money and buy printed soft jaws. they work fine as long as you make sure they are clean and have a good vise. www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=143941711845&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l2562&_ssn=rnoksdesigns Hope this helps
Glad to hear you found the video helpful. It's basically the same process BUT, you will need a thin wall 10mm socket to remove the bottom nuts. Bad design decision by FOX imo. You might have to grind a regular sized socket. I plan on making a video for a step cast. One of my buddies has one. I'm sure I'll work on it this winter
Does the procedure differ a lot from the newer version with VVC? I am thinking about doing the full service since my local shop refuses to do so. Other thing I wanted to do is maybe order Andreani's High Flow Piston to make some ✨tuning✨
Mostly the same. The biggest difference is going to be in the compression stack. The compression piston will look the same, but the loader under the piston will look a bit different. Also, there are leaf springs instead of shims with VVC. You can technically perform the service using this guide, but make sure to pay attention to the disassembly of the compression stack. The VCC is technically easier, imo. What you can do is record the compression stack disassembly, just to make sure you have something to look at if you get confused during the reassembly. Let me know if there are any questions
Bonjour, vidéo très instructive ; auriez vous la référence de la pince d'étau avec les différents diamètres pour démonter la cartouche et les éléments hydrauliques ? Cordialement
Hey Zoub, oddball question for you - When you cycle the Grip2 damper to purge the excess oil, is there supposed to be some backpressure? (ie if you let it go it, extends back to full travel on it's own). My Grip2 damper keeps loosening at the top cap after each ride, even though im reefing on it to tighten before each ride. I finally took the damper out to try some blue loctite on the top cap threads and while I was compressing the damper to get the 40cc of 5wt oil in the lower legs, there was a noticeable amount of backpressure. Wasn't sure if this is normal or not since there's no compressed gas in forks. Figured the pressure might be causing the top cap to unwind somehow?
Merry Christmas, and my apologies for the late reply. When installing the damper mechanism into the tube, it will feel very stiff due to the new seals, and you will also feel some pressure. The pressure you will feel is based on displacing the oil as the bleed takes place. Now, if there is a bit of air trapped inside, then you will feel backward pressure, meaning the damper mechanism will want to push itself out. When filling the tube with oil, make sure that the shaft is completely extended and fill the tube with oil up to the bleed port. If this is off by the slightest amount, there will be an air trap, which will apply unwanted pressure to the damper mechanism. Ultimately, you will feel pressure, but it shouldn't be to the point where the damper mechanism is being forced out. I'm not sure if I did a good enough job explaining this. If not, let me know and I will try and revise
No worries and thanks for the detailed explanation! I realized I might not have bled it the recommended 75% travel and sure enough when I measured and did it the full recommended amount, quite a bit of oil spewed out the bleed hole. Makes sense now. Cheers!@@zoubtube
Similar, yes, but not identical. There are some minor differences between certain years and sized forks with tools and some of the parts. My plan is to make videos for all years and versions. Once I get this project I'm working on out of the way, I plan on opening the floodgates and heavily focusing on forks and shocks. But since these take the longest to record as a service guide, I need to balance things out for now with other videos. Let me know exactly what version and year forks you have, so I can keep an eye out
Apologies for the late response. Absolutely it can be 3d printed. I really need to jump into learning more on 3d printing because there are LOTS of tools that can be printed and sold for MUCH cheaper than what many of these companies charge. My problem is time. 😔
I think, especially for people not as experienced as you, that it is much safer to pinch the O-rings with your fingers so that you put up some slack in them, which you can then pick with the tool. This reduces the risk of scratching any surface, and works with almost all outside rings. For the stiff inside O-rings, I have always found it easier and safer to pinch them/stab them and pull them out this way (as I think you did at 31). Keep up the good work!
Great recommendation, and I couldn't agree more. I really need to script these vids in order to add more details. There are so many details to remember when recording, but the marble rolling around my head has trouble recalling them
@@zoubtube There are two small o-rings in the rebound adjuster that you need to take apart the piston to access. But, to put it back together, you need a feeler gauge and torque screwdriver (!).
Great video, thanks! Im learning in a bike shop, but that is definitly nothing u will do there every day. Maybe im doing the service for my grip 2 next time by my own. What do u think are the benefits of puting grease in the dust wipers? When im right fox says u shouldnt do this, maybe there is a little bit more of breakaway moment when putting grease there? But with grease there is a better efficeny that the dust stays outside? When um doing service on there i will put the dust ring on the damper side into the 5WT thats in the chamber and not into the 20WT. Did u do this for any reason?
Sorry for the delayed response. "What do u think are the benefits of puting grease in the dust wipers" I find there is a better response when doing this. Jstu make sure to clean the excess grease that will come out of the wipers after your first few rides. " i will put the dust ring on the damper side into the 5WT that's in the chamber and not into the 20WT" I actually got into a debate about this with another UA-cam member a couple of months ago. The main job of the foam rings is to collect debris and particles. According to FOX, 5wt isn't effective at doing this, as it wasn't designed for this purpose. The 20wt oil is much more effective and is to be used for this purpose. Again, according to FOX, there is no issue with mixing the 20wt oil and the 5wt if the 20 wt is used for the foam ring. What's super important is to keep up with the lower boot service intervals. It's quick, its easy, it'll extend the life of the fork, and you will get the most performance out of it 👍
@@zoubtube thanks for your answer!! The idea behind that sounds good to me. I will try and put both foam rings into the 20WT next time :D Do you know if Fox changes all the O-rings in the Grip2 if you send them your fork for service or is this an extra special service? Do you have special tools for changing sliding bushing/guide bushings (i dont know the correct english word for it) and can make a video how its done? Im searching the whole www to see how its done but couldnt find a video :(
You can buy an air spring assembly for around $30. Why not just buy a new assembly after you do a couple seal services? Until your video I didn't even know the air spring could be serviced like this, but it seems like this is more effort than its worth. I'm assuming the seal kit cost $20+ with shipping, so all this effort to save $10?
Typically, the air spring will cost twice as much as the seals. The overall job is fairly similar. There is also much less waste by just replacing the seals. But if you find a good price on an air spring, then you can just replace it and skip a few steps. Either works
Air springs are loaded with grease direct from Fox resulting in suck back of the air piston. My ‘22 Altitude / 38 had this condition with maybe 5 hours of easy riding on the bike. Upgraded to a Grip2 while I was in there!
At the 1:20ish mark when he's cycling the oil....do it SLOW!!!! The first time I did this I was going too quick and oil gushed out of the top like a geyser!
And at the 1:30 mark, you'll see a perfect example of why one should ALWAYS wear safety glasses when bleeding forks, shocks, etc. 😉 Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
Great video would of been lost without this, for info the tiny circlip you love so much is OD Ø0.280" (Ø7.11mm) and wire is Ø0.024" (Ø0.6mm). Watching the Fox WEB site for the circlip removal if you slide it around so the end of the clip is next to one of the holes it comes out relatively easily. The only problem I had Is my forks are 2022 factory 36 Grip 2 and the shim pack is way different! unfortunately while I was measuring them the wind blew the paper towel they were on and mixed them up 😭fortunately Fox has a really good web site with the drawings of every part so was able to get back in correct order 😃 having a go at the rear shock tomorrow. Thanks for the great Video
Apologies for the late reply, but AWESOME comments my man! I really appreciate reading about people's experiences and hearing tips, reminders and recommendations. The hole on the side definitely makes it easier; the problem is finding something small enough to fit in it in order to pop the ring up. I wish Fox made it more forgiving. Especially considering they don't offer replacements for those rings "the wind blew the paper towel they were on and mixed them up" I feel your pain. This has happened to me a couple of times; the last time was about 4 years ago. I had trouble sleeping for about a week, and one night I decided to get out of bed at around 4 am and work on a shock to relax me before going to work in the morning. 15 minutes into it, when removing the shim stack, the zip tie I used to keep them in order sprung open on me, and they flew all over the kitchen and dining room. Shims flew everywhere. I literally had to comb the carpet with a small magnet to find the last of them; it took forever. What really sucked was that it wasn't my shock, and I didn't know the order as well, but rockshox pulled through when I called them. Thanks for the comment
Where should the bottom out bumper go? Does it just sit at the bottom of the lower? Im asking because Its flapping around at the bottom when i shake (cleaning inside). Thanks
Very interesting and well done video. I only have one question about the GRIP2 service: the official FOX video (like other tutorials) indicates to push the cartridge rod upwards for 3/4 of its travel in order to release the excess oil. In other videos some don't. By pushing the rod up so much, wouldn't you risk letting too much oil escape from the cartridge? However, I suppose it is used to avoid adding oil to the 40cc PTFE already included in the FOX reference table. Thank you so much! K
My Apologies for the late response. You want to cycle the shaft at 75% of its travel during the bleed process in order to correctly pressurize the damper. If you miss this step and go for a ride and take a big hit, the added pressure will put a significant strain on the seals. I hope this helps
Nope, I bought all my soft jaws. The ones I like the most I purchased on ebay from a guy in canada. They are pricey, but well made. below is a link www.ebay.com/itm/115153412361?var=415219180268 The rockshox reverb softjaw is super handy, it doesn't; come with magnets (I ended up drilling hole to install some). The problem is its super expensive now. I foudn an alternative printed version on ebay that I plan on purchasing to test out. I'm hoping it works out. Below is a link www.ebay.com/itm/276210036547?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m162181.l175008&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43211224335&trkId=8b55f643-ba2d-45b6-b2bb-1978cfb7ca59&cnvId=700003&recoId=276210036547&recoPos=1
Where did you get the vice blocks with all those different sized holes? I can't find anything like it except the small one specifically for the grip damper.
I bought them from an eBay shop. The guy who makes them is from Canada. They are pricey for soft jaws (and it seems like the price went up significantly from when I bought them, but then again, what hasn't?). But, they are solid, precise, very well-marked and come with magnets, which is a huge plus for me. The link is below www.ebay.com/itm/115153412361?var=415219180268&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D2a276b6e2b2c4f92bfac08a944598293%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D415219180268%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DBrand&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3A254fbed918d0a4f3dbd5a177fffce4be%7Cpageci%3A8e9c2396-b753-11ee-91b2-72e3c74276a3%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage There are others out there that make similar softjaws for less, but chances are they will be missing some of the features that this guy offers.
I just bought a new grip2 damper. I accidentally compressed the rod and oil SPLOOOGED out.... Should i just separate/unscrew it ( i have flat socket) clean and fully bleed again?
Yup. this is a very easy damper to bleed. fill about 80% of the tube with oil. Get as many bubbles out first by cycling the rebound shaft. Then fully extend the rebound shaft. Then install the IFP assembly after you make sure all knobs are in the fully open position. Then SLOWLY insert the IFP assembly and close it up. From that point on the damper pretty much bleeds itself during use. I'm sure you can do this. 💪
@@zoubtubehopefully going to install today...I'm curious though, if it's a new damper, is it not "full" of oil already? Should I not essentially do what you did at the 1hr 32min mark? If I compress the piston 75% I'm sure oil will come out the bleed hole.
@@Steve-og3cr If it is a new damper, then yes, it should have had the correct amount of oil in it. But you had mentioned that you compressed the damper shaft and the oil "spooched out" This being the case, I have to assume the damper isn't properly filled anymore. You need to add a bit of oil back into it to make sure there is no air gap when the shaft is fully extended. This type of damper basically maintains itself over time from a bleed perspective, as it will purge excess air and oil on its own through the bleed port, but it needs to start with the proper level of oil to do so. Hopefully, this makes sense.
Another thing to be really careful of when messing with the tiny c clip is if you pop it out it can shoot into oblivion and then your damper is ruined. For real, you have to have that c clip or it will leak when trying to close the damper up. Fox doesn’t sell the c clip itself of course. It is truly a dumb idea, rockshox does a way better job with their c clips in their dampers. Much easier to work with. Side question, I’ve seen you use a hand dyno in your other videos. What is the name of it? Like the manufacturers name, I see oso on the back but can’t make out the name. I’m looking to get a dyno for my shop to help with my suspension service.
Bob, your advice is always SUPER appreciated! I actually mentioned the C-clip potentially popping off into the room in the video, because it's happened to me in the past. I literally scoured an entire room with a 1-inch magnet trying to find the stupid thing. I had no idea that fox didn't sell these clips if they get lost. Next time I work on the fork, I'm taking the clip to a hardware store to see if they might stock them, and I'll put the size in the description just in case that happens to someone so they can find a replacement. Thanks for the heads-up 👍 and to everyone else out there, DON'T LOSE THE C-CLIP! The Hand Dyno is from a company called Off Streets Only (OSO) www.offstreetonly.com/ . It's a solid piece of gear, but pricey. There was another one that I was planning on buying from a company here in MI called UP Bikes: up.bike/ . Not as elegant, but significantly less expensive. The supply issues a few years ago was the reason I ended up buying the OSO. I have to assume those issues are solved now. Just a fyi as both are viable options, imo, and I would have opted to save the money at the time if I could have.
HI Bob. Question for you. A UA-camr pointed out that the bolt that holds the damper shaft to the bottom legs should be torqued to 9 nm instead of 5.7 nm. I looked it up on the FOX service guides, and literally came across three different torque specs for the same bolt. The 50-hour guide states 5.7 nm, (which is what I torque them to) the damper guide states 9 nm, and the air spring guide states 16.9 nm. So I called Fox today and spoke to a service tech, and he said the service tech's torque both bolts to 50-55 in/lbs, which is about 5.7- 6 nm. I was wondering what your thoughts were on this? Thanks
@zoubtube I've noticed that discrepancy too. There is even one service guide where they have the 15mm being torqued to 10-15nm! I decided to just use the torque spec that rockshox uses on their forks for the crushwashers, which is 7.8nm. So I typically torque the bolts to 8nm cause I work in a shop and these torque wrenches are used constantly so they may be under torquing sometimes. Side question, do you have a vacuum bleeder/fill machine? Hand bleeding takes forever, especially when working on dhx2, or the new float x.
@@bobsaget3841 I was surprised as well to see three different torque specs. Anything higher than 10 nm just seems excessive to me. I spoke with the service tech for a good amount of time on it today, and he seemed adamant on them using 50-55 inch lbs, but at the same time he couldn't answer why there were different values for the same nut across different service guides. I'm not sure what to think. Rockshox has been clear on this for years with the 7.8nm. I don't have a vacuum bleeder. I literally don't have space for one. I'm sure I'll end up getting one eventually, but first, we need to find a house to put it in. It's going to be the old-fashioned way for me until then.😉 It seems like there are quite a few offerings now for vacuum bleeders, though they are pricey.
@zoubtube ya most likely the fox rep has to stick to what the service guide says for liability sake. You would need to talk to the actual engineers to get the more in depth answer! Ya and the crush washers are so similar, except for the big one on foxs 15mm bolt. So I feel fine about using the rockshox spec. Ya im trying to get a suspension program going in my shop so having "professional" tools is really important for credibility and liabilities sake. I work for rei and I'm the only mechanic who does suspension service in the south. I'm working on building my own vacuum bleed/fill machine just to prove that there is a huge demand for service and that it can be profitable. The speed the bleeder brings is invaluable.
It's a cubic centimeter (cc), which is the same as a milliliter (ml). I used to only say ml prior to living with my gf, who is a doctor, and in their world it's all about cc's and know I find myself using both terms. Having lived equally as long in both canada and the US, my terminology of measurements is a mess 😁
Thanks myman! The way my brains been working lately, I'm going to start making videos to remind my on how to put my underwear on correctly in the mornings! 😁
Hey, what do you think of this... I have a 2021 34 Grip 2, and I'm looking at the lower removal tools. This is from the 'Required Tools' on Fox's air spring rebuild guide... 398-00-681 2002-017 32 Damper-side and ALL 32-34-36-40 Spring-side Removal Tool 398-00-682 2005-017 34-36-40 Damper-side Removal Tool (needed only for 34mm forks) So I *think* that means for a 34 I need one of each of these..? I'm just confused by Fox's wording here. On Jenson it does say one is for 34 air side and other is for 34 damper side, but I'm not completely convinced either way.
Sorry for the delay but yes, The air and dampers sides have different sized shafts. enjoy the service. I'm sure after you do it once you will find it super easy to do again
Heat isn't really needed but its highly recommend when working with loctite red. Loctite red can be surprisingly strong, and shocks and forks contain relatively soft metals, which can be easily damaged with excessive force. As for tools, an adjustable wrench/knipex can be used for many tasks, but I'm a big fan of using wrenches and torqueing with crows feet. Back In my armature moto GP days I used to have to work on my own engines, which demanded precision tools. old habits die hard I guess. 🙂
Can you let me the exact model and version of your fork, or even better, send me the tune id. The tune ID is on a sticker with 4 letters on it located on the lower boots of the fork. thanks
Geez, that's terrible! I need to start putting a quarter in a jar every time I say "ok", "basically" and "essentially" so I can kick the habit. I'm gonna need a jar the size of a wine barrel! 😁
Just to make sure I understand. when you say "changed oil in my grip 2" are you talking about 50 hour service (only removed the boots) or did you open the damper to and changed the oil in it as well as replaced seals?
@@brokebroke5950 Are you sure you positioned the rebound knob correctly? Or more importantly, Are you sure you didn't strip the mini set screw when unscrewing it to remove the knob? this is a common mistake which I believe I mention in this video. let me know
If it's the exact same fork, then it has two rebound knobs. The inner knob is positional. Make sure the deeper side faces the forks boot. The outer knob has the set screw. You have to make sure the set screw sits against the flat portion of the rebound shaft dial, or else it will slip or fall off easily. Have you checked this out? A regular 50-hour service doesn't affect anything within the damper itself, including the rebound shaft.
5.7 Nm ????? Reinstall the rebuilt damper cartridge into the Damper-Side Upper Tube. Install a new damper-side crush washer followed by the bottom nut. Make sure to align the crush washer with the bottom nut before tightening. Tighten clockwise to 80 in-lb (9.0 Nm) torque with a 15mm socket.
Thanks for the comment. I just looked into the service guides for the FOX 36 and saw conflicting information on the FOX website. The lower leg service guide states 5.7 nm for both damper and air spring nuts. The damper guide for this fork (2019) says 9 nm, and the air spring guide says 19.9 nm for the damper side nut (this seems excessive). I used the values in the 50-hour (lower leg service only) guide, since that part of the video is the second half of the 50-hour service. I'll call up Fox today and get an answer to the above and post it in the description section. Thank you very much for bringing this to my attention.
So I just spoke with a service technician at FOX. He's stated that the service techs torque the boot bolts for both damper and air spring sides to 50 to 55 inch pounds, which is ~5.7 nm - ~6 nm, and have been doing so for a long time. Not sure what the absolute answer is between engineering and the service techs on this one considering there are 3 different values for the same bolt between 3 different service guides.
9nm is way excessive for that smal bolt. There is a universal torque spec for all bolts in case anyone is wondering but the one i Follow uses aviation universal torque spec.
Man, I don't get why you only have this amount of views at this moment but I would like to express my huge thank you for uploading such extensive and detailed video. I also just watched the one for the DPX2 and it helped me a lot. I don't have 2 left hands but never tempted on servicing these things myself. Now, with this as backup evidence, I would potentially risk it and try it out.
Again, thanks!
Thanks for the comment myman! As long as the videos help those who are interested in performing jobs like these on their own, is more than enough for me. If you have any questions or concerns just let me know and thanks for the support. 👍
Couldn't agree any more! 👍
1 h 50 min... Damn, that's thorough.
Thank you sir! One question though, I did the lower leg service and swopped air shaft (130->140) on my fox 34 Grip2 fork. I followed your instructions but must have made some kind of mistake. When I compress my fork I hear a squishy sound (similar to a liquid passing a small passage). This sound was not there before the service. I have not ridden my bike much after the service due to weather conditions. Maybe it will go away? I compressed the fork roughly 20 times without it stopping. Do you know what might be the reason for the squishy sound and how I can get rid of it?
Thank you in advance!
Apologies for the late response. Just so I'm sure, the squishy noise is coming from the air side, not the damper side, right? if it's coming from the air side, check for suckup and make sure the shaft isn't pulling up at rest. It's possible that there is some grease stuck in the transfer port. This should clear up, but if it doesn't, you might have to service the air spring again.
Take it for a few rides and see if the noise goes away. If the noise is on the damper side, that's a whole different story. Keep me updated if you can 👍
Great as always, thanks ! 2 questions, i did a fork and when i released the air pressure it was all neg. Pressure (collapsed down completely).it looked like yours did the same. I know it was assembled properly. What is causing that ? Operator error, bad fork…..???
When soaking the sponge rings of the lowers in oil would it be better or necessary to soak them in different oils being there is different oils in the lowers?? Thumbs up thanks!!!
Thanks for the comment. Air moving back and forth between the positive and negative chambers is normal. What happens sometimes is that the port that allows this can get blocked by grease. If too much air gets trapped in the negative chamber, it will end up sitting above the port. One way to solve this is by manually extending the fork until the air side piston gets pulled below the port, which will allow air to move to the positive chamber. You will hear a hissing sound when this happens. This can be hard to do sometimes, and you might need to remove the front wheel and use the axle with your foot while holding the crown to pull them apart. Sometimes it takes a few tries. Otherwise, you will have to service the air spring and properly set it, which is an easy job to do
As for the damper foam ring on a grip fork. Per Fox Service Department, The foam ring should be soaked in 20wt oil as 20wt oil is much better at trapping dirt than 5wt. The foam ring has two jobs, one of which is to help lubricate, and the other is to collect dirt (this is why a 50-hour service is so important, remove dirt that has been collected by the foam rings). 5wt oil is nowhere near as effective at trapping dirt as 20wt. Also, per FOX, a foam ring soaked in 20wt has no effect on the 5wt oil in the stanchion.
Hopefully, this helps
Hi and thanks for the impressive video. At the 23 minute mark you use the paper towel to absorb oil coming from the damper side. Wish I had known this to keep things tidy.
Also considering that oil loss from the damper side I'm wondering if I have to service the damper side or at least remove to replace the lost fluid.
I feel you myman. I learned that lesson the hard way years ago. All the remain oil absorbed into the carpet I left it on. The oil than comes out is residual from the lower legs. when you assemble the fork you will end up filling the lower legs with oil before closing them up. No need to worry about it 👍
This is the best video for fork service, Thanks
Thank you very much for the comment. Glad to hear you found it helpful.
Great video as always.
One question, what is indicator that it is time for damper service?
Besides 200h period...
Thanks. one good indicator is noise. if you hear squishing, squeaky, swooshing noises (especially on a hard fast impacts), if the fork feels like it sticking, then chances are it needs service. by 200 hours it should be service, but that doesn't mean you should wait until around 200 hours. in some cases it might need service way before that
Thanks for the informative guide!
Glad to hear it was helpful for you. let me know if there are any questions
What kind of torque wrench do you use? I struggle a bit getting the whole specter of crowfoot spanners that fits mine, and also not easy getting a wrench starting with torque at 0 and beyond 30.
I have snapon AtechFR torque wrenches. I bought them a long time ago for different purposes. They are complete overkill for this application as they are literally meant for the aircraft industry, so I don't recommend people buy them as they are expensive. but still, they do make the best torque wrenches by far, and they truly are a "for life" product. so there is some value there if you use them on other stuff as well
There are many options out here for low torque ranges in both click style and digital. I like digital and it stays accurate longer than click, as long as they get impacted hard. but they are expensive. for bikes: Tekton makes a good bang for the buck torque wrench.
www.amazon.com/TEKTON-24320-4-Inch-Torque-2-26-22-6/dp/B00C5ZL2EG/ref=asc_df_B00C5ZL2EG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=692875362841&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7597802535824491848&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9016979&hvtargid=pla-2281435179578&mcid=6d3b393ae80a3febbd0d35a8c50c4c16&hvocijid=7597802535824491848-B00C5ZL2EG-&hvexpln=73&gad_source=1&th=1
To give you an idea of price range, the snap on click equivalent is part number QD1R200A, which is over $300 new.
as for crows feet you can get an adjustable crowfoot, or you can buy them individually and buy the actually sizes you need
Hopefully this helps some
@@zoubtube Cheers man, thx for a great video and quick answer!
Great video, very concise and informative on the procedure. Have you ever done the 2021+ VVC Grip2's? I used the factory service guide, but the instructions for the rebound assembly are missing some photos, and do a bad job explaining. It would be great to have a video if you ever have one to work on.
Glad to hear you found the video informative. IF memory serves me correct, The VVC version doesn't have any seals that need to be replaced in the actually hsr and hsr assembly. If you take it apart its only to clean it, which isn't worth the effort imo. just leave it as a whole. I will definitely make a video on it. It's just a question of timing.
Like the video very much clean easy to follow maybe a few links to the tools would be good. Might make some money for you if on affiliate’s. Thanks for the time an effort to make a great video
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful for you. I tried an affiliate program but was rejected because I didn't meet some of the requirements, which I honestly didn't even know I needed. The plan is to set it up again soon. Either way, videos will keep coming! 👍
Excellent video. My hero!
Thank you very much for the kind comment and it makes me happy to hear that you found the video helpful. more videos to come 👍
Thanks to your video I just completed a complete rebuild of my Fox 36 Factory. There's a few slight differences as I have the Grip 2 VVC damper but pretty easy to figure it out with your detailed instructions and the fox service manual.
Outstanding Job Myman! 🦾👏👏 Yup Very minor difference between the two. I will eventually be making a video on the VVC version, but for now it sounds like you are good to go! Now go out there and pound that beast! 👍
Seriously, this has gotta be the best rebuild video for the Grip 2 that exists, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! Do you have any plans to do a video for rebuilding the Grip2 VVC Rebound Piston assembly? Fox's guide has some rather hard to follow instructions for tightening the assembly with a 0.030 shim, and I can't seem to find anywhere that has a good guide for that. Either way, your stuff is awesome!
Thank you very for such kind words, as well as for taking your time to watch the video. My plan is to make detailed videos like this for as many forks and shocks as possible. It's just a question of time when I get to certain models and years. But We'll get there. 👍
Thank you very much! With love from St. Petersburg!
Большое спасибо за просмотр видео. Я рад, что тебе понравилось. Надеюсь, вы нашли это полезным 🙂
This is definitely the best video I have ever found, precise and accurate... well done...
Just one question, I have to do maintenance on a 2022 FOX 34 Grip2.... where can I find the correct spare parts codes, just to make sure I buy the right kits?
Thanks and greetings from Italy....
Thank you very much for the kind words. glad to hear you found the video informative. send me the forks tune ID and I get your the parts number for all 3 kits. I'll have time tomorrow to do this.
02:15 what is the thread of the 2 tools? thank you awesome videos!
Apologies for such a delayed response, but this one slipped through the cracks. One is a Metric 8mm x 1.00 FINE thread and the other is a 10mm x 1.00 EXTRA FINE thread. I'll make sure to add it in the description as well. Hope this helps.
Hi, Probably the best video for 36 FIX service..One question: What kind of support do you use to clamp the pieces in the vice? Can you provide the part number?" thank you
Thank myman. glad you enjoyed it. I believe your asking about the softjaws
I have many pairs but the ones I use the most are the following. they are a bit pricey imo, but they are great quality, laser printing is clear and they come with magnets
www.ebay.com/itm/115153412361?var=415219180268
This guys also makes quality quality stuff but no magnets, which is a shame imo
www.ebay.com/str/bikewcm
you can save some money and buy printed soft jaws. they work fine as long as you make sure they are clean and have a good vise.
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?item=143941711845&rt=nc&_trksid=p4429486.m3561.l2562&_ssn=rnoksdesigns
Hope this helps
Great video, do you have any videos on Fox 34 Perf step cast Grip or is it the same procedure as this?
Glad to hear you found the video helpful. It's basically the same process BUT, you will need a thin wall 10mm socket to remove the bottom nuts. Bad design decision by FOX imo. You might have to grind a regular sized socket. I plan on making a video for a step cast. One of my buddies has one. I'm sure I'll work on it this winter
Does the procedure differ a lot from the newer version with VVC? I am thinking about doing the full service since my local shop refuses to do so. Other thing I wanted to do is maybe order Andreani's High Flow Piston to make some ✨tuning✨
Mostly the same. The biggest difference is going to be in the compression stack. The compression piston will look the same, but the loader under the piston will look a bit different. Also, there are leaf springs instead of shims with VVC. You can technically perform the service using this guide, but make sure to pay attention to the disassembly of the compression stack. The VCC is technically easier, imo. What you can do is record the compression stack disassembly, just to make sure you have something to look at if you get confused during the reassembly. Let me know if there are any questions
Bonjour, vidéo très instructive ; auriez vous la référence de la pince d'étau avec les différents diamètres pour démonter la cartouche et les éléments hydrauliques ? Cordialement
Merci beaucoup. Demandez-vous la taille des trous dans la mâchoire de l'étau ? Si oui, 10mm et 22.6 mm
Hey Zoub, oddball question for you - When you cycle the Grip2 damper to purge the excess oil, is there supposed to be some backpressure? (ie if you let it go it, extends back to full travel on it's own). My Grip2 damper keeps loosening at the top cap after each ride, even though im reefing on it to tighten before each ride. I finally took the damper out to try some blue loctite on the top cap threads and while I was compressing the damper to get the 40cc of 5wt oil in the lower legs, there was a noticeable amount of backpressure. Wasn't sure if this is normal or not since there's no compressed gas in forks. Figured the pressure might be causing the top cap to unwind somehow?
Merry Christmas, and my apologies for the late reply. When installing the damper mechanism into the tube, it will feel very stiff due to the new seals, and you will also feel some pressure. The pressure you will feel is based on displacing the oil as the bleed takes place. Now, if there is a bit of air trapped inside, then you will feel backward pressure, meaning the damper mechanism will want to push itself out. When filling the tube with oil, make sure that the shaft is completely extended and fill the tube with oil up to the bleed port. If this is off by the slightest amount, there will be an air trap, which will apply unwanted pressure to the damper mechanism. Ultimately, you will feel pressure, but it shouldn't be to the point where the damper mechanism is being forced out. I'm not sure if I did a good enough job explaining this. If not, let me know and I will try and revise
No worries and thanks for the detailed explanation! I realized I might not have bled it the recommended 75% travel and sure enough when I measured and did it the full recommended amount, quite a bit of oil spewed out the bleed hole. Makes sense now. Cheers!@@zoubtube
Would this be the same procedure on servicing the fox 34 and 38 grip2 factory versions?
Similar, yes, but not identical. There are some minor differences between certain years and sized forks with tools and some of the parts. My plan is to make videos for all years and versions. Once I get this project I'm working on out of the way, I plan on opening the floodgates and heavily focusing on forks and shocks. But since these take the longest to record as a service guide, I need to balance things out for now with other videos. Let me know exactly what version and year forks you have, so I can keep an eye out
I used this video while performing fork lower legs service.. great step by step tutorial..
Awesome to hear that the video worked out for you. Hopefully comments like yours inspire others to try it as well. Thanks for sharing 👍
fantastic video
a question about the tool you use 36:59 can it be 3d printed? Do you have the dimensions or a link to it?
Apologies for the late response. Absolutely it can be 3d printed. I really need to jump into learning more on 3d printing because there are LOTS of tools that can be printed and sold for MUCH cheaper than what many of these companies charge. My problem is time. 😔
I think, especially for people not as experienced as you, that it is much safer to pinch the O-rings with your fingers so that you put up some slack in them, which you can then pick with the tool. This reduces the risk of scratching any surface, and works with almost all outside rings. For the stiff inside O-rings, I have always found it easier and safer to pinch them/stab them and pull them out this way (as I think you did at 31). Keep up the good work!
Great recommendation, and I couldn't agree more. I really need to script these vids in order to add more details. There are so many details to remember when recording, but the marble rolling around my head has trouble recalling them
No man, really, your videos are some of the best I have seen about suspension and overall bike maintenance. Great work. @@zoubtube
Why dont you take apart the rebound piston assembly? Just curious? Is it unnecessary?
I'm assuming you mean the needle controls. It's not needed in this case, no seals to replace in it. One less thing 😉
@@zoubtube There are two small o-rings in the rebound adjuster that you need to take apart the piston to access. But, to put it back together, you need a feeler gauge and torque screwdriver (!).
This was awesome, thanks! Exactly what I need. Bike mechanic ASMR.
Much appreciated my man. That's my intentions with these videos. It's all about the job! 👍
Great video, thanks! Im learning in a bike shop, but that is definitly nothing u will do there every day. Maybe im doing the service for my grip 2 next time by my own.
What do u think are the benefits of puting grease in the dust wipers? When im right fox says u shouldnt do this, maybe there is a little bit more of breakaway moment when putting grease there?
But with grease there is a better efficeny that the dust stays outside?
When um doing service on there i will put the dust ring on the damper side into the 5WT thats in the chamber and not into the 20WT. Did u do this for any reason?
Sorry for the delayed response.
"What do u think are the benefits of puting grease in the dust wipers"
I find there is a better response when doing this. Jstu make sure to clean the excess grease that will come out of the wipers after your first few rides.
" i will put the dust ring on the damper side into the 5WT that's in the chamber and not into the 20WT"
I actually got into a debate about this with another UA-cam member a couple of months ago. The main job of the foam rings is to collect debris and particles. According to FOX, 5wt isn't effective at doing this, as it wasn't designed for this purpose. The 20wt oil is much more effective and is to be used for this purpose. Again, according to FOX, there is no issue with mixing the 20wt oil and the 5wt if the 20 wt is used for the foam ring.
What's super important is to keep up with the lower boot service intervals. It's quick, its easy, it'll extend the life of the fork, and you will get the most performance out of it 👍
@@zoubtube thanks for your answer!! The idea behind that sounds good to me. I will try and put both foam rings into the 20WT next time :D
Do you know if Fox changes all the O-rings in the Grip2 if you send them your fork for service or is this an extra special service?
Do you have special tools for changing sliding bushing/guide bushings (i dont know the correct english word for it) and can make a video how its done? Im searching the whole www to see how its done but couldnt find a video :(
dude youre the hero we all needed, thank you so much
That's awesome 😊 Glad to hear the videos are helpful for you. Let me know if you have any questions and until then more videos to come!
You can buy an air spring assembly for around $30. Why not just buy a new assembly after you do a couple seal services? Until your video I didn't even know the air spring could be serviced like this, but it seems like this is more effort than its worth. I'm assuming the seal kit cost $20+ with shipping, so all this effort to save $10?
Maybe a take off or used but new 2021 fox 36 air shaft is 75$ vs 15$ for the seal kit idk about 2019 model tho
@@soilBGuRu420 new for a 2020 was $30
Typically, the air spring will cost twice as much as the seals. The overall job is fairly similar. There is also much less waste by just replacing the seals. But if you find a good price on an air spring, then you can just replace it and skip a few steps. Either works
Air springs are loaded with grease direct from Fox resulting in suck back of the air piston.
My ‘22 Altitude / 38 had this condition with maybe 5 hours of easy riding on the bike.
Upgraded to a Grip2 while I was in there!
At the 1:20ish mark when he's cycling the oil....do it SLOW!!!! The first time I did this I was going too quick and oil gushed out of the top like a geyser!
And at the 1:30 mark, you'll see a perfect example of why one should ALWAYS wear safety glasses when bleeding forks, shocks, etc. 😉 Thanks for sharing your experience with us.
Great video would of been lost without this, for info the tiny circlip you love so much is OD Ø0.280" (Ø7.11mm) and wire is Ø0.024" (Ø0.6mm). Watching the Fox WEB site for the circlip removal if you slide it around so the end of the clip is next to one of the holes it comes out relatively easily. The only problem I had Is my forks are 2022 factory 36 Grip 2 and the shim pack is way different! unfortunately while I was measuring them the wind blew the paper towel they were on and mixed them up 😭fortunately Fox has a really good web site with the drawings of every part so was able to get back in correct order 😃 having a go at the rear shock tomorrow. Thanks for the great Video
Apologies for the late reply, but AWESOME comments my man! I really appreciate reading about people's experiences and hearing tips, reminders and recommendations. The hole on the side definitely makes it easier; the problem is finding something small enough to fit in it in order to pop the ring up. I wish Fox made it more forgiving. Especially considering they don't offer replacements for those rings
"the wind blew the paper towel they were on and mixed them up"
I feel your pain. This has happened to me a couple of times; the last time was about 4 years ago. I had trouble sleeping for about a week, and one night I decided to get out of bed at around 4 am and work on a shock to relax me before going to work in the morning. 15 minutes into it, when removing the shim stack, the zip tie I used to keep them in order sprung open on me, and they flew all over the kitchen and dining room. Shims flew everywhere. I literally had to comb the carpet with a small magnet to find the last of them; it took forever. What really sucked was that it wasn't my shock, and I didn't know the order as well, but rockshox pulled through when I called them.
Thanks for the comment
Where should the bottom out bumper go? Does it just sit at the bottom of the lower? Im asking because Its flapping around at the bottom when i shake (cleaning inside). Thanks
If its the one I think you are referring to then, yes. It should wedge into the bottom
Very interesting and well done video. I only have one question about the GRIP2 service: the official FOX video (like other tutorials) indicates to push the cartridge rod upwards for 3/4 of its travel in order to release the excess oil. In other videos some don't. By pushing the rod up so much, wouldn't you risk letting too much oil escape from the cartridge? However, I suppose it is used to avoid adding oil to the 40cc PTFE already included in the FOX reference table. Thank you so much! K
My Apologies for the late response. You want to cycle the shaft at 75% of its travel during the bleed process in order to correctly pressurize the damper. If you miss this step and go for a ride and take a big hit, the added pressure will put a significant strain on the seals. I hope this helps
Did you make your soft jaw?
Nope, I bought all my soft jaws. The ones I like the most I purchased on ebay from a guy in canada. They are pricey, but well made. below is a link
www.ebay.com/itm/115153412361?var=415219180268
The rockshox reverb softjaw is super handy, it doesn't; come with magnets (I ended up drilling hole to install some). The problem is its super expensive now. I foudn an alternative printed version on ebay that I plan on purchasing to test out. I'm hoping it works out. Below is a link
www.ebay.com/itm/276210036547?mkevt=1&mkpid=2&emsid=e90001.m162181.l175008&plmtId=700008&mesgId=3024&mkcid=8&ch=osgood&bu=43211224335&trkId=8b55f643-ba2d-45b6-b2bb-1978cfb7ca59&cnvId=700003&recoId=276210036547&recoPos=1
Where did you get the vice blocks with all those different sized holes? I can't find anything like it except the small one specifically for the grip damper.
I bought them from an eBay shop. The guy who makes them is from Canada. They are pricey for soft jaws (and it seems like the price went up significantly from when I bought them, but then again, what hasn't?). But, they are solid, precise, very well-marked and come with magnets, which is a huge plus for me. The link is below
www.ebay.com/itm/115153412361?var=415219180268&_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D2a276b6e2b2c4f92bfac08a944598293%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D415219180268%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DBrand&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3A254fbed918d0a4f3dbd5a177fffce4be%7Cpageci%3A8e9c2396-b753-11ee-91b2-72e3c74276a3%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage
There are others out there that make similar softjaws for less, but chances are they will be missing some of the features that this guy offers.
amazing video.... tks a lot
Glad to hear the video was helpful for you. If you have any questions let me know
@@zoubtube impossible to have any questions... today it's my manteinance fork day.... later I told you how it was...
I just bought a new grip2 damper. I accidentally compressed the rod and oil SPLOOOGED out.... Should i just separate/unscrew it ( i have flat socket) clean and fully bleed again?
Yup. this is a very easy damper to bleed. fill about 80% of the tube with oil. Get as many bubbles out first by cycling the rebound shaft. Then fully extend the rebound shaft. Then install the IFP assembly after you make sure all knobs are in the fully open position. Then SLOWLY insert the IFP assembly and close it up. From that point on the damper pretty much bleeds itself during use. I'm sure you can do this. 💪
@@zoubtubehopefully going to install today...I'm curious though, if it's a new damper, is it not "full" of oil already? Should I not essentially do what you did at the 1hr 32min mark? If I compress the piston 75% I'm sure oil will come out the bleed hole.
@@Steve-og3cr If it is a new damper, then yes, it should have had the correct amount of oil in it. But you had mentioned that you compressed the damper shaft and the oil "spooched out" This being the case, I have to assume the damper isn't properly filled anymore. You need to add a bit of oil back into it to make sure there is no air gap when the shaft is fully extended.
This type of damper basically maintains itself over time from a bleed perspective, as it will purge excess air and oil on its own through the bleed port, but it needs to start with the proper level of oil to do so.
Hopefully, this makes sense.
Another thing to be really careful of when messing with the tiny c clip is if you pop it out it can shoot into oblivion and then your damper is ruined. For real, you have to have that c clip or it will leak when trying to close the damper up. Fox doesn’t sell the c clip itself of course. It is truly a dumb idea, rockshox does a way better job with their c clips in their dampers. Much easier to work with. Side question, I’ve seen you use a hand dyno in your other videos. What is the name of it? Like the manufacturers name, I see oso on the back but can’t make out the name. I’m looking to get a dyno for my shop to help with my suspension service.
Bob, your advice is always SUPER appreciated! I actually mentioned the C-clip potentially popping off into the room in the video, because it's happened to me in the past. I literally scoured an entire room with a 1-inch magnet trying to find the stupid thing. I had no idea that fox didn't sell these clips if they get lost. Next time I work on the fork, I'm taking the clip to a hardware store to see if they might stock them, and I'll put the size in the description just in case that happens to someone so they can find a replacement. Thanks for the heads-up 👍 and to everyone else out there, DON'T LOSE THE C-CLIP!
The Hand Dyno is from a company called Off Streets Only (OSO) www.offstreetonly.com/ . It's a solid piece of gear, but pricey. There was another one that I was planning on buying from a company here in MI called UP Bikes: up.bike/ . Not as elegant, but significantly less expensive. The supply issues a few years ago was the reason I ended up buying the OSO. I have to assume those issues are solved now. Just a fyi as both are viable options, imo, and I would have opted to save the money at the time if I could have.
HI Bob. Question for you. A UA-camr pointed out that the bolt that holds the damper shaft to the bottom legs should be torqued to 9 nm instead of 5.7 nm. I looked it up on the FOX service guides, and literally came across three different torque specs for the same bolt. The 50-hour guide states 5.7 nm, (which is what I torque them to) the damper guide states 9 nm, and the air spring guide states 16.9 nm. So I called Fox today and spoke to a service tech, and he said the service tech's torque both bolts to 50-55 in/lbs, which is about 5.7- 6 nm. I was wondering what your thoughts were on this? Thanks
@zoubtube I've noticed that discrepancy too. There is even one service guide where they have the 15mm being torqued to 10-15nm! I decided to just use the torque spec that rockshox uses on their forks for the crushwashers, which is 7.8nm. So I typically torque the bolts to 8nm cause I work in a shop and these torque wrenches are used constantly so they may be under torquing sometimes. Side question, do you have a vacuum bleeder/fill machine? Hand bleeding takes forever, especially when working on dhx2, or the new float x.
@@bobsaget3841 I was surprised as well to see three different torque specs. Anything higher than 10 nm just seems excessive to me. I spoke with the service tech for a good amount of time on it today, and he seemed adamant on them using 50-55 inch lbs, but at the same time he couldn't answer why there were different values for the same nut across different service guides. I'm not sure what to think. Rockshox has been clear on this for years with the 7.8nm.
I don't have a vacuum bleeder. I literally don't have space for one. I'm sure I'll end up getting one eventually, but first, we need to find a house to put it in. It's going to be the old-fashioned way for me until then.😉
It seems like there are quite a few offerings now for vacuum bleeders, though they are pricey.
@zoubtube ya most likely the fox rep has to stick to what the service guide says for liability sake. You would need to talk to the actual engineers to get the more in depth answer! Ya and the crush washers are so similar, except for the big one on foxs 15mm bolt. So I feel fine about using the rockshox spec. Ya im trying to get a suspension program going in my shop so having "professional" tools is really important for credibility and liabilities sake. I work for rei and I'm the only mechanic who does suspension service in the south. I'm working on building my own vacuum bleed/fill machine just to prove that there is a huge demand for service and that it can be profitable. The speed the bleeder brings is invaluable.
What the fuck is a CC?
It's a cubic centimeter (cc), which is the same as a milliliter (ml). I used to only say ml prior to living with my gf, who is a doctor, and in their world it's all about cc's and know I find myself using both terms. Having lived equally as long in both canada and the US, my terminology of measurements is a mess 😁
Love your stuff Zoub. Although I know how to... we all need to refresh every now and then. Thanks!
Thanks myman! The way my brains been working lately, I'm going to start making videos to remind my on how to put my underwear on correctly in the mornings! 😁
very nice , thanks !
Glad you liked the video. hopefully it comes in helpful for you. let me know if there are any questions
Thank you sir!
Thank you for taking the time to watch the video and hopefully it helps you one day 👍
Hey, what do you think of this... I have a 2021 34 Grip 2, and I'm looking at the lower removal tools. This is from the 'Required Tools' on Fox's air spring rebuild guide...
398-00-681 2002-017 32 Damper-side and ALL 32-34-36-40 Spring-side Removal Tool
398-00-682 2005-017 34-36-40 Damper-side Removal Tool (needed only for 34mm forks)
So I *think* that means for a 34 I need one of each of these..? I'm just confused by Fox's wording here. On Jenson it does say one is for 34 air side and other is for 34 damper side, but I'm not completely convinced either way.
Disregard, I think I have decided the 34 needs both removal tools. Ordering them today and will confirm when I am able to do the job.
Sorry for the delay but yes, The air and dampers sides have different sized shafts. enjoy the service. I'm sure after you do it once you will find it super easy to do again
@@zoubtube Thanks! I am actually looking forward to this one. I have most of the stuff I need, just waiting for a bad weather day to dig in and enjoy.
Great detailed video!
Glad to hear the video was informative for you. If you have any questions just let me know
Good job
Thank you very much sir! let me know if there are any questions
First time I see that heat is needed, and also many more tools than in any other service videos about full service
Heat isn't really needed but its highly recommend when working with loctite red. Loctite red can be surprisingly strong, and shocks and forks contain relatively soft metals, which can be easily damaged with excessive force. As for tools, an adjustable wrench/knipex can be used for many tasks, but I'm a big fan of using wrenches and torqueing with crows feet. Back In my armature moto GP days I used to have to work on my own engines, which demanded precision tools. old habits die hard I guess. 🙂
On 2022 versione change something for the dumper service ?
Can you let me the exact model and version of your fork, or even better, send me the tune id. The tune ID is on a sticker with 4 letters on it located on the lower boots of the fork. thanks
fox 36 factory 2022
@@zoubtube
lol you said ok 72 times in one video
Geez, that's terrible! I need to start putting a quarter in a jar every time I say "ok", "basically" and "essentially" so I can kick the habit. I'm gonna need a jar the size of a wine barrel! 😁
@@zoubtube you'll definitely be rich in no time that's for sure
i changed the oil in my grip2 40 now my rebounds turn without clicking or stopping please help guys.
Just to make sure I understand. when you say "changed oil in my grip 2" are you talking about 50 hour service (only removed the boots) or did you open the damper to and changed the oil in it as well as replaced seals?
@@zoubtube just 50 service
@@brokebroke5950 Are you sure you positioned the rebound knob correctly? Or more importantly, Are you sure you didn't strip the mini set screw when unscrewing it to remove the knob? this is a common mistake which I believe I mention in this video. let me know
Yes I'm sure it's not stripped
If it's the exact same fork, then it has two rebound knobs. The inner knob is positional. Make sure the deeper side faces the forks boot. The outer knob has the set screw. You have to make sure the set screw sits against the flat portion of the rebound shaft dial, or else it will slip or fall off easily. Have you checked this out? A regular 50-hour service doesn't affect anything within the damper itself, including the rebound shaft.
great job. Thanks!!!
Much appreciated. thanks for taking the time to watch it and hopefully it will come in handy for you
5.7 Nm ????? Reinstall the rebuilt damper cartridge into the Damper-Side Upper Tube. Install a new damper-side crush washer followed by the bottom nut. Make sure to align the crush washer with the bottom nut before tightening. Tighten clockwise to 80 in-lb (9.0 Nm) torque with a 15mm socket.
best advice 😂
Thanks for the comment. I just looked into the service guides for the FOX 36 and saw conflicting information on the FOX website. The lower leg service guide states 5.7 nm for both damper and air spring nuts. The damper guide for this fork (2019) says 9 nm, and the air spring guide says 19.9 nm for the damper side nut (this seems excessive). I used the values in the 50-hour (lower leg service only) guide, since that part of the video is the second half of the 50-hour service. I'll call up Fox today and get an answer to the above and post it in the description section. Thank you very much for bringing this to my attention.
So I just spoke with a service technician at FOX. He's stated that the service techs torque the boot bolts for both damper and air spring sides to 50 to 55 inch pounds, which is ~5.7 nm - ~6 nm, and have been doing so for a long time. Not sure what the absolute answer is between engineering and the service techs on this one considering there are 3 different values for the same bolt between 3 different service guides.
9nm is way excessive for that smal bolt. There is a universal torque spec for all bolts in case anyone is wondering but the one i Follow uses aviation universal torque spec.
The crush washers are plastic. 50in lbs should be plenty for both sides.