How To Perform A Lower Leg Service In Just 5 Minutes | Basic Suspension Service
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- We rely on our mountain bike suspension forks to smooth out the trails and absorb the impact of jumps, drops, roots and rocks. But, over time all suspension units need a service! If you are an aspiring home mechanic follow Anna Cipullo on this 5-minute video on how to refresh your fork or perform some preventative maintenance 🔧
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We recommend you remove all air from any air spring when servicing air forks, rear-shocks, and dropper seat posts. Different brands, models and model years will have different internals and it is important to be confident in knowing to the best of your knowledge that no air is contained within the system.
how often is the recommendation for this one?
@fe9523 every 50 hrs of riding. Usually you would replace the seals and the dust wipers as well
Do you need to reset the settings ( compression, rebound, etc)?
In my opinion, removing, cleaning and greasing the air spring should always be a part of any lower leg service. It adds 10 minutes max and makes an enormous difference in performance as well as o-ring life. Not doing it is like changing the oil in your car and not changing the filter.
yes ideally and this is pretty easy with most forks, not 38's though, you've got to have shaft clamps, blow torch (if needed), shaft bullet tool, and a set knipex or I think a 13mm spanner (have always used knipex on mine 😅) would have been good to mention doing though
@@matthewallen5590 yeah absolute ballache on a 38
@@matthewallen5590 well, this is a little annoying to know now, but also good timing. Im sure it wont annoy me when i go to service it :)))
Im about to do this service to my 38's and needed a refresher..thanks GMBN Tech
I followed every instruction. My uppers flew across the room and embedded themselves in the televison. And the lowers broke my foot.
What?! Lol I hope you're kidding otherwise I'm sorry if not.
The spring around the dust wipers can be removed and gently put higher on the stanchions, so that you don't have to press so hard to get the stanchions back in. They snap back on when you are done.
Hmmm- at 3:30, using the outer cable housing to push the towel through is probably not a great idea, especially when you use the cable housing end that has still clearly got some metal housing lining sticking out that can scratch those lower inners, and the housing is still curved which will definitely catch the sides of the lowers as you push it further in.
There's gonna be plenty of lower legs flying across the room after watching this 🤣😂.
The air chamber doesn't even matter on a lower leg service.
@@ZhengZL69 every video I've seen they drop air pressure and I've stuck to it every time and not gonna try and see what happens if I don't 🤣😂
@@DARRENTRANCE It is good practice to do so, but it is definitely not necessary. Fox doesn't do so in their world cups to save time. I do take the air out cause I don't trust my self either but it won't blow anything up haha.
@@ZhengZL69 🤣😂👍
@@ZhengZL69 well I've just serviced my fox 36 forks and left air in the system and lower legs didn't shoot across the living room floor 😂🤣. So definitely ok without dropping air pressure 👍
I just want to add that you got the oil reversed. Its Gold 20Wt for the Fit 4 and 5Wt PTFE for the Grip damper
Grip and grip and grip 2 is 40cc WT5 and Fit 4 damper is 15cc WT20 so you just got it wrong
More of these quick "refresher" videos, please.
I use toliet brush for lowers cleaning....
She is saying that you just need something soft, to soak the oil out. A toilet brush might be a bit too rough, it’s intended to break and remove material
@@aliancemd yea bud. I'm telling you what I use. When I serviced older Judy's and darts the oil is more like jam 😂👍
Usually before putting the lowers back on I think it’s also recommended to add some suspension grease to the dust wipers
Not greas on the dust wipers?
I mean good intentions were there but fuck don't shove outer cable into your lowers for starters!
I doubt outer housing would damage the bushings, they’re extremely hard.
Great video. Took me an hour to do it..
You should revise/correct the instructions for the oil volume in this video. I should have checked the instructions for my Grip2 damper 38 of course, but you claimed that you have Grip2 at 1st and Fit4 later. You also mentioned the wrong type of oil (20wt) for Grip2 as well as volume. Now I can start taking my fork apart again.
I also noticed this just before purchasing oil for my rebuild. The chart is Right on fox's website.
How to easy service a fork: go back to 1999; buy a Marzocchi bomber Jr. T or Mr. T; clean shaft and seals every now and then; change the slightly oiling shaft seals in 2021 and renew the oil; ride on ....
I'm confused about something. Reading the manual for my fox 38 it only lists the 125 hour full service, and makes no mention of the lower leg service?
There is so much wrong about this video that it honestly should be removed...and on top of that it's even dangerous...
How is it dangerous?
NB!!!! - REMOVE AIR BEFORE YOU DO THIS. It is not in the video.
Not for this service...
You’ve either:
(a) not watched the video
(b) never performed a lower leg service
Which is it?
@@kevinxodemonth I have done both fork manufacture recommend taking out air for safety. So not sure what you implying? Safety first.
@@marcovie like was mentioned in the video...this is for people that don't need their hands held. You're nowhere near the pressurized air chamber on this...
Sure but if you don't teach that mindset then people do rear shock and forget. I always remove air not sure what the problem is.
LMAO, Fox literally gives the torque spec of these on their website and manual, and they're giving a random torque value.
It's 50 inch-lbs (5.7Nm) for the air side and 110 in-lbs (12.4Nm) for the Grip2 side.
so no sus grease on the seals?
I'd put sram butter or something on ur seals
@@scottwinchester6162 for some reason I still call it Judy Butter!
She’s actually got this wrong, 8:10 according to fox bath oil chart it’s 40cc 5wt for grip 2 and 15 cc for fit 4 !
Gmbn videos taking another step for the worst. It's a shame, used to be the best.
The video show 40ML of PTFE oil going back in the lower leg not taking into account the PTFE oil that is already sticking on the surface of the CSU and Lower Leg and has not been removed. 40ML is only when it is all clean and dry.
VALID comment.... too bad that your channel is in French and my French are not that good to follow you. Merci!
And, also, there is the oil within the tube on the end of the syringe itself. The amount looks like it could be an extra half at a minimum of the amount of oil required. Once the correct oil amount is in the syringe, remove the tube and drain it, blow it out & refit to the syringe.
lower leg also needs to include air spring - it plays such a bit part... Not doing the air spring is like changing car oil without doing the filter.
IMO the Air spring needs to be pulled from every fork when new as they are rubbish feeling because of the grease.
100% the equilizer port is often clogged from new, or like with my partner's 3 year old bike equilizer port suddenly got clogged.
I have a 2021 Fox Factory Float 34 in 27.5" and I wanted to convert it to 29". Some searches and forums indicated that it was as easy as buying the corresponding 29" lower legs. is that case ? thanks...
What kind of syringes are those?
How easy everyone eveyrtime removes that rebound cap which is stucked by factory and won't turn.
I didn’t have a press, but a 2 inch piece of PVC cut to 3 inches with a cap worked great to set the wiper
I’ve finally started diving deeper in to my own maintenance starting with this. A lower fork refresh. As I was dumping out the old fluid, I noticed that both came out clean and the same color of gold, leading me to believe they had 20wt in each side when the mx instructions for my fork require 5wt on the damper (grip2). During the year that I rode it, I noticed that I didn’t notice much of a difference when playing with rebound. I’m guessing that’s why.
The question I have is how likely is it that I did some damage to the damper side riding it with 20wt? Should I overhaul the whole fork?
When I bought this bike last fall, I brought it in to my local shop (whom I’m not using anymore because they’ve really gotten bad after switching management) to get a full work up done since the guy I bought it from had it in storage for a couple years. One thing they did was a fork overhaul.
100% should be 5wt Teflon damper side for grip and grip2. Ideally a full damper strip and rebuild with the correct oil. The grip2 isn’t fully sealed so 20wt will have got in and won’t play nice with the seals. Some people still soak both foam rings in 20wt but that’s minor but considering that leg should have 40cc in the lowers it’s a much more significant amount.
A question…. Is the damper open bath? It’s been quite a few years since my last Fox.
I THINK that it is an assembly like the charger 2.1 for example
Its a cartridge but it’s semi open. It’s made to ingress a bit of oil from the lowers and equalize itself
@@erikanzenmtb3124 makes sense. Thanks
Lefty loosy unless it’s a Manitou.
Lol, learnt that the hard way myself.
do you not need to take the air out first? i always did this to my older forks going off other videos? unless these newer forks dont need the air taking out ? just curious thanks :)
It’s good practice to do it with every fork, but for just a lower keg service it’s not required. The air pressure is inside the leg with the air spring if you’re not removing that then it’s fine unless you suspect the seals are leaking.
Nice… shaking the fork oil before putting it in……
Nothing quite like nicely frothed hydraulic fluid.
😅😅😅😅
To be honest, video is not informative enough. DONT LET THIS BE THE ONLY VIDEO YOU WATCH. important steps are missing which can lead to injury or death. Also, the quoted oil weights and volumes are wrong. They got fit 4 and grip 2 mixed up.
I know somebody who uses lawnmower oil in forks and i believe it worked
If I am hearing a swooshing sound on my factory 36 fork, what should I do? Its been making the sound before and after I had my 100 hour seal service.
learn how to do nothing to your forks
Hi thanks for the video. Have you a link to buy just crush washers or wiper seals without buying the whole kit. I have got oil seals left over as I didn't need them last time either.
How much would all of those tools cost?
Hmm if it takes 5 minutes why does my bike shop want to charge $100.
Crush washers "if you need3ed it"? Do you ever not neeed them? If they're in good shape can you just reuse them?
I just use engine oil for the fork lowers, its only there to lubricate, so I can't see how it can effect performance like changing the oil weight in the actual damper will.
With some forks the damper bleeds itself with the bath oil so it needs to match the damper fluid
@@cameronrobertson9518 OK, I assume that's not the case with the motion control damper, because about a year and a half ago I changed the damper oil from 5wt to 2.5wt to help with fast braking bumps, and haven't noticed the damping get firmer with engine oil in the lowers.
#gmbntech Since the oil in the lowers is only there to lubricate, I don't see the need to have different oil weights for each side. The damper is a closed cartridge so it shouldn't matter
Engine oils are often synthetic and might contain esters. The NBR seals commonly found in forks are not chemically resistant to esters.
There is no international standard for what constitutes a synthetic engine oil, so you should definitely be careful with what your pour into your forks.
While you dont need to buy exactly what the manufacturer recommends, at least use an oil from the same class as the original product.
In this case that would be a mineral oil.
@@obi-wankenobi9871 Ok, but for what its worth I've been using engine oil for years without any problems, and I just googled the safety details on rockshox suspension oil, which is just rebranded maxima plush suspension oil, and its 60 to 90 percent synthetic base oil.
Who did spot that the presenter didn't remove the air from the syringe so she didn't really put the supposed volume of oil into the fork?
My fork is leaking oil, I brought it to the specialist at my bike store, but they don't know what to do...
Wear glasses. Safety glasses is the best.
I SWEAR TO GOD you guys are psychic I decided yesterday that i was going to do a lower leg service for the first time on my fork today and then you guys upload this video, that is so crazy. The disassembly on mine is a bit different though since it's a Rockshox Recon.
What oil did you use and was it different for both sides
Really useful video, thank you. Have rediscovered my cajones and will attempt my Fox 36 myself, especially since my LBS won't!
Thanks for information
You're welcome! We're glad you found this one useful! 👍
Why do you shake the oil 🤦♂️
You really should use a lower leg removal tool
No need to remove air?
Not unless you're taking out the air shaft to clean/ re-grease the piston.
Why do you shake the oils before using?
How is that standard called? Cant find anything when googling suspension stand
It’s just a park tool bike stand. You just put the steerer tube where you would otherwise put the bike frame or seat post in the clamp
Did you know that "mil" is not short for "millimeter?" A mil is one thousandth of an inch, so your "15 mil wrench" is equal to, like 0.381mm
it's all about context and non formal talk. Working on a car, replacing a part,,,Yo Fred, pass me that 10mil spanner, meaning in a slang\jargon way 10mm. Working on engine rebuild....Hey Fred, you think 10 mil is fine for clearance? Then you'll know it's 10 thousands. All about context...you knew that right?
@@ZeeFrankensteel no, you're gonna ask for "the ten," not for a "10 mil spanner." Most of these ppl who say "mil" instead of "millimeter" do not know what a "mil" is when asked.
Sure, i can figure out what they mean via context, but it doesn't make it less goofy to use the wrong term
@@fatrobdouble You are in fact right....I'll ask for a 10 spanner (without the mil), but I'll say the bolt is a 10 mil or mm, whatever I feel like on that day. Cheers!
Do you have to let all the air out first?
Yes definitely. Otherwise you have a cannon.
ua-cam.com/video/klJiEzK4YIo/v-deo.html hmmm, unless I missed it, they don’t mention letting air out there either. Certainly something to find out for sure
There's no air in the lowers otherwise it would all blow through the stanchion seals. The air is inside the bit left in the clamp not the lowers you take off.
Yes, you do let the air out, crazy they did not mention it first.
You’re only doing a lower leg service, i.e., removing the lowers. The highly pressurised air spring chamber is in the upper (the Kashima coated part of the fork). If you’re doing a full service, OR removing/adding volume spacers, it is CRITICAL to release all the air first. Otherwise it’s perfectly safe.
What about coil suspensions?
Same process for air or coil. Z1 coil bomber or a push 36 conversion would be the same.
Do not use a torque wrench as a ratchet. Please lead by example.
You mixed up the oils at 5:40, you said 20wt with grip and 5wt Fit4 😅 in the video you did use the correct oil though.
I wonder how you dispose the oil
In your morning shake.
👍✌️
😊👍👍
Does not look easy
How do you clean out the inside of the lowers completely? Last service I had a bit of dirt in there
put a rag on something long, spray some alcohol or brake cleaner (if you use brake cleaner watch that you don't get any on the paint) inside the lower leg then clean it out with the rag on the stick. I haven't done it personally ( I plan on servicing my fork later today though for the first time) but from all the videos I've watched that Is what the people did.
@@NonLegitNation2 what dors brake cleaner do to paint?
@@hannes6114 it can strip the paint, because alot of brake cleaners are mostly acetone.
@@NonLegitNation2 SO WHAT IS ALTERNATIVE TO BREAK CLEANER ??
Isopropyl. See 11:18 of this video: ua-cam.com/video/klJiEzK4YIo/v-deo.html
Ах какая женщина!!!!!!!!!!!
not all forks are Fox, how about some alternatives?
Plz don’t use a torque wrench to unscrew 😓
"Basically trying to be as gentle as possible, not to scratch the lowers with anything, so soft cable is my preference"
Proceeds to jam a cable housing with exposed steel wiring through the aluminum lowers.
This girl forgot the grease .. please go in the kitchen.. ah ah
First
🥇🙌
All good for fox fans. no good for anyone else.👎🏻👎🏻
Its very much the same process on most Rockshox forks except maybe the allen key sizes….
lol what?
He must have a Manitou
The process is similar, but here's a video that might help all the people running a RockShox fork. 👉 ua-cam.com/video/F0ji4sGcCrE/v-deo.html
REMOVE AIR FIRST!!!!!!
REMOVE THE AIR IN THE FORK FIRST!!!!!!
Сын катается, а мама чинит!)