Bus bar looked a bit crusty. Just because you have good power on the bus, could be a poor connection to the post if the plugs. Worth mentioning to clean that area for each of the four plugs and confirm that the nuts are on nice and tight
Testing the injectors requires specialized equipment so there is no way to properly test an injector at home. Next week we will remove, dismantle, clean, inspect, and refresh a bad injector.
Do you have any videos troubleshooting the relay system. Our l300 glow plug system recently quit. On start, you could hear the relay click off... But while driving the relays would randomly make noise... This became more frequent until one day the plugs stopped warming up.
You do great content. But your statement about using a test light to show how much current is flowing to the glow plugs is incorrect. that light's is glow is measuring the voltage between those two points not the current, just like a voltmeter would show. 13 volts = bright, 11 volts = not so bright.
Yes you are correct, technically its voltage that is being checked, I didn't want to go into much detail. The voltage drop however can be caused by high resistance from very corroded connector or poor ground. In a scenario like this a volt meter may still read 12 volts as it may only be drawing a few miliamps, which the bad wiring can still supply. A test light on the other hand requires a few amps at 12vdc. This can give you a visual of the voltage drop as the wiring may not be capable of supplying 12volts at say 5amps, so the light will glow dimly. Using something like a sealed beam headlamp actually works much better for this sort of test as it puts a much higher load on the circuit.
Mine won't even glow after the plug change. That's all I keep coming back to. I have power to the bus (if I'm quick enough to test it right). I did the injectors while I was at it. Is that an issue? I'm just thinking out loud right now and frustrated.
@@projectaddiction It wouldn't start before I changed the plugs. I figured I would start there (and did the injectors while I was at it). It may be the timer itself come to think of it. I only get a very short window to test the bus bar. I'm honestly out of my league on this. There is also a sound missing when I turn it over. It's very hard to put my finger on but it's gone. I thought maybe it was the flex plate (?). I'm at a loss at the moment. Thank you for your reply.
@@LuckyLeftyD Diesel's are fairly basic. If you have fuel, compression, and the glow plugs are working it should run. You may want to swap out your temp sensor as a faulty sensor can cause the glow plugs to shut off to fast. You can also add a manual glow plug switch for testing.
@Project Addiction Thank you so much for the info. I barely have enough time to turn the key and run to test the bus bar(?). It has power as I've gotten there fast enough to see a light bulb. I do want to put a manual push button for the glow plugs, but I'm not all that sure how. It, too, is probably very basic. It turns but I get no "chug" or "shake" or exhaust for that matter.
@Project Addiction also, parts are very hard to find in the States. Do you have a part # or source for the temp sensor? I have a really dumb question also: Can a bad starter cause this issue? I can turn the key, and it will drain the batteries trying. I ask because a sound is missing. My dumb brain thought it could be the "flex plate" or a solenoid....... I hate to bug you, but I love learning from you.
Bus bar looked a bit crusty. Just because you have good power on the bus, could be a poor connection to the post if the plugs. Worth mentioning to clean that area for each of the four plugs and confirm that the nuts are on nice and tight
Very good observation! Trying to record and perform work make it harder to broach on everything sometimes.
Probably also worth noting that it's easier to remove glow plugs from a warm engine, lessening the chance they'll break off.
Thanks! Good video
Injector test video coming up?
Testing the injectors requires specialized equipment so there is no way to properly test an injector at home. Next week we will remove, dismantle, clean, inspect, and refresh a bad injector.
Do you have any videos troubleshooting the relay system. Our l300 glow plug system recently quit. On start, you could hear the relay click off... But while driving the relays would randomly make noise... This became more frequent until one day the plugs stopped warming up.
It's on my to do list I swear! A simple and inexpensive thing to try is to swap the head temp sensor out for a new one.
You do great content. But your statement about using a test light to show how much current is flowing to the glow plugs is incorrect. that light's is glow is measuring the voltage between those two points not the current, just like a voltmeter would show. 13 volts = bright, 11 volts = not so bright.
Yes you are correct, technically its voltage that is being checked, I didn't want to go into much detail. The voltage drop however can be caused by high resistance from very corroded connector or poor ground. In a scenario like this a volt meter may still read 12 volts as it may only be drawing a few miliamps, which the bad wiring can still supply. A test light on the other hand requires a few amps at 12vdc. This can give you a visual of the voltage drop as the wiring may not be capable of supplying 12volts at say 5amps, so the light will glow dimly. Using something like a sealed beam headlamp actually works much better for this sort of test as it puts a much higher load on the circuit.
Do you need to remove them to measure resistance?
To ensure accuracy it is best to remove them.
Mine won't even glow after the plug change. That's all I keep coming back to. I have power to the bus (if I'm quick enough to test it right). I did the injectors while I was at it. Is that an issue? I'm just thinking out loud right now and frustrated.
Did you use the correct OEM glow plugs? Aftermarket ones often mess with the glow timer I have found.
@@projectaddiction It wouldn't start before I changed the plugs. I figured I would start there (and did the injectors while I was at it). It may be the timer itself come to think of it. I only get a very short window to test the bus bar. I'm honestly out of my league on this. There is also a sound missing when I turn it over. It's very hard to put my finger on but it's gone. I thought maybe it was the flex plate (?). I'm at a loss at the moment. Thank you for your reply.
@@LuckyLeftyD Diesel's are fairly basic. If you have fuel, compression, and the glow plugs are working it should run. You may want to swap out your temp sensor as a faulty sensor can cause the glow plugs to shut off to fast. You can also add a manual glow plug switch for testing.
@Project Addiction Thank you so much for the info. I barely have enough time to turn the key and run to test the bus bar(?). It has power as I've gotten there fast enough to see a light bulb. I do want to put a manual push button for the glow plugs, but I'm not all that sure how. It, too, is probably very basic. It turns but I get no "chug" or "shake" or exhaust for that matter.
@Project Addiction also, parts are very hard to find in the States. Do you have a part # or source for the temp sensor? I have a really dumb question also: Can a bad starter cause this issue? I can turn the key, and it will drain the batteries trying. I ask because a sound is missing. My dumb brain thought it could be the "flex plate" or a solenoid....... I hate to bug you, but I love learning from you.