this tuning guide mostly covers realistic tuning methods, which aren’t terrible, but are much slower than meta settings in the context of forza on lots of cars, mostly awd swap ones, lower tire pressure, shorter gears, less camber and max caster, using 1-65 arbs, softer springs and higher ride height, softer rebound and bump settings, max front aero and lower rear (or more if its rwd), and aggressive differential settings will make any car turn much more and be much more responsive it might make it too oversteery but increase front arb, more centered diff balance in awd, or higher rear aero if it has too much oversteer
I love grip tunes, untill you learn that everyone driving online wants to be far ahead of everyone and rams you into walls and dirt EVEN when your playing driveatars and you winning, you will still punted into the phantom zone
i hate driveatars what i find anoying as hell is they stick to the road like glue you can t bone the pricks as top speed and they hardly move they can take cars around corners far faster then a player can hell on higher difficulties they can make cars go faster then they can nothing like seeing some shit box go 450 when you can hardly go 400 with out sacrificing corning grip.
The formula is obviously the one used in the majority of Forza Horizon 4 tuning guides (the one i stumbled upon first was HokiHoshi's, btw) - however, there are some issues that has to be pointed out - as there have been significant changes regarding handling characteristics since Forza Horizon 4. - The weight distribution is unquestionably the main guide for us tuners, yet one aspect is often overlooked: the total weight of the car. As you may read the suspension info to the right, "stiffer suspension travels more weight" yet if the car is, for example under 1000 kg (or 2200 lbs.) there will be a lot less weight to travel and the suspension will start to become obsolete: yes it's expected that while cornering, less travel is better but no travel is even worse because your tires will need that weight travel upon them for a healthy contact patch to the road. On the other hand, if the car weighs more than 1250-1300 kg (or 2800 lbs.), you'll need more travel but again, find the sweet spot of stiffness for the same reason. So how to set this up, properly? By fine-tuning for a little less stiffness for lighter cars and a little more for heavier cars, after applying the formula given in the video. You can even do that by using the suspension telemetry, cornering at low and high speeds and observing the amount of travel the springs are experiencing. Make sure none of them bottoms out. The same goes for anti-roll bars: You don't need stiffer adjustment when there is less weight to mitigate the body roll because stiffer-than-needed settings will effect handling negatively. The rebound and bump settings are pretty much obey the formula, yet i find it better to multiply rebound values with 0.63 rather than 0.5 (to calculate bump) in order to prevent excessive jumpiness of the vehicle at high speeds and maybe even lower rebound a little after the calculation, if the car is lighter than say, 2500 lbs. As RWD car handling is drastically improved in Forza Horizon 5 (compared to FH4), min-maxing anti-roll and suspension settings sometimes works wonders yet may not be applicable for all vehicles. AWD cars are more tolerant on that matter, yet you should always consider the engine position and car weight change after a swap (if there is any) before min-maxing since it's the heaviest internal component of the car :) - Observing the alignment (camber, toe-in, caster) telemetry on roundabouts is often misleading: you should find an inclined road with good amount of corners to carry out alignment settings - because while climbing up, the majority of the weight is on your rear wheels and climbing down, it's on the front: so it'll be better to observe your alignment accordingly (for example: observe front right setting while driving downhill on a left corner, rear left setting while driving uphill on a right corner etc.) It is also better to adjust caster angle higher than 5 in order to get negative front camber without setting it too low (for example: adjusting -1.2 front camber/4.5 caster will yield nearly the same as -0.2 camber/5.5 caster) but as your front springs will be more parallel to the ground, your rebound/bump will be less affected by excessive weight travel. However, it's better for your front camber to stay in negative range so, adjust your caster angle to ensure you see no positive values at the telemetry screen. Rear camber is independent of this setting. - Lastly, you should consider the engine swap mechanics when adjusting the gear ratios: some swaps (racing engines, mostly) sacrifice max. torque for power because they often have less displacement in order to be lighter even if they utilize higher number of cylinders (except rally engines). If this is the case, you need shorter ratios at higher gears in order to avoid inefficient torque distribution. Engine displacement upgrade sometimes helps but not that much. If such a swap also includes camshaft upgrade, since your rpm band broadens (meaning; your red-line increases) you should consider installing race transmissions with more gears. The clutch upgrade depends more on your control setup but will be required if you are driving in auto or manual without the clutch option.
This "find an inclined road with good amount of corners to carry out alignment settings" good thinking. I'm going to include this into my test track. It's those downhill turns that gets you from time to time. I am also after a total weight vs baseline spring stiffness. Drift suspension because of it's extreme stiffness is not always optimal. I lift my height slightly to introduce functional bodyroll.
this has to be the best tuning video hands down, no shortcuts this dude actually explains what youre doing and WHY. I can finally tune my own cars now and its so much more fun all thanks to this vid. Youre a beast for this one man thank you
Thank you for your tips. Very helpful. This is a set of calculations I made to make some set up tasks quicker. The first column is front weight %. The second column is anti roll. the max/min is 1/65. Many cars use this range (as far as I know). The third and fourth columns are rebound/bump values. 1/10 and 1/20 min/max work in FH 4 while 1/20 is applied to FH 5. Forza Horizon 4 and 5 suspension setting guide. Front weight Anti-roll Rebound/Bump % 1/65 1/10 1/20 40 26.8 4.6/2.7 9.8/5.8 41 27.2 4.7/2.8 10.0/5.8 42 27.8 4.8/2.9 10.1/6.1 43 28.5 4.9/2.9 10.3/6.2 44 29.1 5.0/3.0 10.5/6.3 45 29.8 5.0/3.0 10.6/6.3 46 30.4 5.1/3.1 10.8/6.5 47 31.0 5.2/3.1 10.9/6.5 48 31.7 5.3/3.2 11.1/6.6 49 32.3 5.4/3.2 11.3/6.8 50 33.0 5.5/3.3 11.5/6.9 51 33.6 5.6/3.3 11.6/6.9 52 34.3 5.7/3.4 11.8/7.0 53 34.9 5.7/3.4 12.0/7.2 54 35.5 5.8/3.5 12.2/7.3 55 36.2 5.9/3.5 12.3/7.4 56 36.8 6.0/3.6 12.5/7.5 57 37.5 6.1/3.6 12.7/7.6 58 38.1 6.2/3.7 12.8/7.7 59 38.7 6.3/3.8 13.0/7.8 60 39.4 6.4/3.8 13.2/7.9 Spring Strength Calculation. Front: (((Max setting - Min setting) x front weight balance %) + Min Setting) = ______ Rear: (((Max setting - Min setting) x (100 - front weight balance %)) + Min Setting) = ______ For the gear ratio tune set the final ratio to 4.10. Make 1st as high as you can and still take off. Make top gear redline once during the duration of the circuit. Distribute the remaining gears between first and top. After a bit of practice you will find you can fine tune the intermediate gears for particular corners or braking zones. With my set up (G-25, auto, left foot braking, home built race station, pc, no assists) I find altering brake pressure to 60% in my base tune is a good place to start. This curbs the tendency to lock up easily when set at 100%. With the lock up under control I can then use the brake to trigger a down shift. I can then maximize my gear ratios to move down shifts where I want them. I also find it easier to trail brake at 60% I like tuning cars with less power. It's fun.
@@Lionfish5656 The ARB works like this. If the weight balance is 45% towards the front, then the rear value will be 55%. 100% - 45% = 55% The front and rear values added together always equal 100%. Therefore the values given in the table work for both front and rear ARB calculations.
For those who don’t know: Some engine’s power graphs, like the 6.2 V8’s, end just as the power and torque meet. Upgrading cams will get you around this, but comes at a PI cost.
Nice one geezer! I used your method in FH4 and now in FH5. It works. Really well..! I’ve just got a wheel and watched your setup guide. Perfect! Better than Hoki Hoshi! Keep the videos coming mate. Much appreciated.
Thank you very much for this guide. I can finally enjoy it with my new set of G29. Previously it's always understeering or washing out every where. Now I can finally control and enjoy a fun drive! So much to learn with all these settings. Thanks again!
hi..just want to say, your formula about tuning your car in forza 5 has really created a whole other play joy use that formula on my all my cars many thanks
Oh yeah, gave your tuning formula a try and it instantly made cars more grippier on my steering wheel. Thanks a bunch, game is slowly but surely becoming playable and fun for me, I'm getting less frustrated with every play session. I don't know anything about tuning at all, it all flies over my head even when explained, but your formula is simple to use and has been producing good results for me. Another thing I learned to do is to swap RWD for AWD drivetrains, at least personally AWD is much easier to drive on my wheel, and also changing the gearing to 6 gear for cars that have over 6, as I use manual + clutch and my physical shifter only has 6 gears.
Thanks for the great feedback 😀. 4wd will definitely give you more grip for sure as your experience grows you will Start enjoying the RWD cars aswell. Keep em lower powered and learn to slide and then keeping them tamed becomes easy enough. I'm glad your enjoying the game 😎👊
this video is a godsend, I've always just used tune's on the tuning area because tuning a car personally just seemed so overwhelming and seemed way too confusing for my brain to understand, but the way you explain things and give the necessary info for each individual tune is amazing, keep it up bro!
Ridiculously good! Struggled to beat seasonal speed zone 180mph! Always around 7mph off - 2019 Bugatti Divo with no engine mods just suspension and tuning... 180.26 mph 😁😁 That's without diff upgrade aswell! Brilliant! Thank you
You can use race suspension and adjust the tune how drift is to catch the car the same. You'll notice the camber and Toe are similar but race is a little less numbers than drift suspension is. Also race ride hight isn't as low as drift. So you can run race suspension and then set the numbers the same as drifting numbers.
Thank you, have never try even to try understand how it's work, but now finally I have a good explanation for every situation I need to know thanks to you💥💥
This seem very similar to your Forza horizon 4 setting calculation . Number of the percentage seem change but it a great help. Always look forward to your video and also recommend to people. Keep up the great content!
It is pretty much the same with a few tweeks 😎👍 . Still using Drift suspension but we now have different differentials to use. I also lowered the damping percentage and anti roll bars tuning is down 2 points. Diff tuning is different on acceleration , I find these diff's lock up on a much lower numbers but not a hug amount has changed 👍 thanks for watching 👊
I incorporated your formula into a spreadsheet. All I gotta do is input the front weight ratio and the Min-Max Spring values, then the desired settings are are all calculated for me :)
Yo man i appreciate it this helped alot been getting in to more of the touge side of forza not necessarily competitive racing but touge runs solo or with a couple people was able to make my car the way i wanted,made a s14 276 hp touge build but now i know what to tune and the math side of things thank you man
I've been doing the same myself with some friends. We have been doing the Mountain drift zone with A800 grip set ups. It makes for some close racing and really enjoyable 😎👊
Great video but you have caster angle backwards. The higher the number postive the more the caster leans back. 0 degrees is truly vertical and negative caster is when the car is leaning over forward. Google caster angle and you'll see what I mean. Everything else you said is spot on. I'm an auto tech and do alignments daily.
Great video! You helped me understand the suspension work ✌ Just got back into playing forza. I know how to tune the gears on most of the cars, but the suspension work always eluded my understanding. So you can imagine, most of my cars are what I like to call "cracked out" meaning they have massive power but no way to displace it properly throughout the car. So im always in the dirt. I drive pretty well, I'd say, but I felt the tunes were always what had me all over the road. I play on a controller but I have a sense for throttle control, im not one to mash the gas and see what happens, I like keeping my car on the road 🤣
I have a question about tire temperatures: Do you know if the the tire differences between the inner & outer portions of the tire being no more than 20°F applies regardless of Speed? I notice that on my first gear, my tunes often meet the small differences rule, especially for the outside tires that go faster when in a turn. But when I get into higher speeds, the sides of the tires start to significantly differ from one another & in some cases, at least one of the tires flips in temperature, particularly the the one that moves faster in a corner I.E the outer tire in a turn. I cannot seem to find a proper set of camber nor tire pressure for any of my cars. I realize that camber, tire pressure & caster all contribute to tire temperatures. My general tuning rules tend to follow the weight distribution of the car with the springs, damping, braking being promotional to the weight of the car @ that end (EG 40% of weight @ the front means 40% stiffness for springs & damping & 60% of breaking power shifted to the back.) I need some clarification on the tire temps at different speeds. I am wondering if my general rule has flaws or if I am missing something E.G that my differentials are not properly tuned & my wheels are not going @ the appropriate speed when cornering.
❤thank you very much! best tuning guide out there. i can finally get a balanced base tune to start with on any car. other videos are guesswork. you lay out the math and it made a big difference for me.
Thank you for the calculation you legend. I have about 700 plus tunes and started using this for all my baseline (1st stage) tunes since Aug 2022. Question, is there a formula for total car weight vs overall spring stiffness (meaning more than the ratio balance between front and back)? Give your black cat a pat haha
So question with your formula... max - min x weight ratio + min ... doesnt the -min amd the +min cancel themselves out?? So that would just be nonsense so basically just max x weight ratio.....
when testing and adjusting front camber ive noticed that some cars the inside tire will be the lower number but other cars the outside tire is the lower number. what causes this? i would think the outside tire is the more important one since it has more pressure on the ground so more grip? raising ride height can make the outside tire the one that gets closest to zero. also lower caster will do that as well. is it worth it? does it make a difference in the game? also, regardless which tire gets closest to zero... would it be worth it to lower caster to make both inside and outside closer to being the same? so for example, instead of front inside being around -0.12 and outside being -1.28... lower caster so inside stays the same but outside is now -0.20 or something like that?
How would you fix a car that looses grip and control in the back two tires in the first gear when getting off the line or accelerating from one gear to second and so on
About to grab some breakfast first then coming home to have a sit nice down. Today is the day I will get some decent driving in. Good look out on the video. I'll be right here ready for the next drop.
Your maths is off on bump stiffness and rebound. I do a similar calculation myself, but you should calculate bump stiffness without the +1, which you then add afterwards. That is 19 x 0.52 = 9.88 (+1 = 9.9); 9.88 x 0.55 = 5.434. If you add 1 to the last figure, you get 5.5 (bump). Ditto the rear: 19 x 0.48 = 9.12 (+1 = 10.1); 9.12 x 0.55 = 5.016, which gives you an overall figure of 6.0. I used to make the same error myself, and I've seen HokiHoshi do the same. However, the discrepancy is too slight to make a significant difference (I've noticed any great difference in handling), and I'm quite interested in trying your method of tuning.
You mention understeer. Perhaps dropping brake pressure to 60% will help. You may be locking up the brakes as you enter the corner under trail brake, causing your understeer. Might be a bit counter intuitive, but as you say, "I've tried every setting to fix this."
Great video bro, i knew a lot about tuning but i always struggled with front end grip. Changed over to drift springs and car handles way better. Wonder why that is though.
Great video and I learnt a lot thank you. I’ve been having a problem with they’re temps versus psi so on a couple of cars. Let’s say the new Brabham RWD I can’t get any heat in the front tyres. They are constantly blue and at kin PsI which can’t be right. Should I ignore the colour and be more concerned about hit 32-34psi at track temp? Same goes for another car where I can’t seem to cool them down. In your video I got the impression to ignore the colour of the temp in the telemetry as long as psi is right and the temp is even throughout. Is that right. Thank you
Thanks for tuning in 😎 👊 Once you have done the process a couple of times it really is easy , it takes me around 3 minutes a car. It probably sounds harder then it is. The formula is Max - Min x Weight Ratio + Min , you use this on Springs , dampers , rebound and anti roll bars. When multiplying your weight ratio use this , if your car is 56% front then you would multiply by 0.56 for the front and 0.44 for the back. Obviously Max is the highest number on that setting and minimum the least,. The camber etc is set up from telementry but i usually run 1.4 front 1.0 on the rear and go from there. Caster at 5.5/6 on Grip cars and usually drop the tire pressure 2psi front and back. That will give you a good base tune to work from.
I'm hoping to have a drift video up for FH5 by next week, the tuning is slightly different from FH4 but actual drifting skills are the same. I'm glad I could help 😎👍
@WheelSpinTV I'm sure this is just me being dumb but when I turn my AWD '97 skyline it turns at first, but then the front tires lose traction I think because it turns back the other direction and there are skid marks. So like if I try to turn left it starts to turn left and then swings back to the right a little bit. Is there something I should be doing?
Best way to test what's going on is on a Roundabout in this case. Do the wheels turn back without steering ? Or is the front pushing wide ? I would loosen off the front springs , damping rebound , anti roll bars and see if that helps.
Love your videos. You explain everything in a nice and easy way. One thing though. How do I know what parts to use, or do you use the same ones all the time? I have noticed that some parts doesn't come with sport, race, off-road, rally, drift and so on. Thats the hardest part for me. What parts to go with.
Thanks that means alot 😎👊. It really depends on what I'm trying to build. I use drift suspension on everything that has it unless it's 4wd which I will use race suspension for ( both used for grip tuning) I always use race diffs. The rest is dependent on the build, use and class I'm looking for really. If I'm doing a class car I.E A800 or S1 900 , I will always start with slick tires , width , then suspension, anti roll bars , brakes and then move onto engine last. I follow the philosophy that Corner speed gives quicker times. The majority of tracks are twisty and require grip over power. I hope this helps 😎👊
The weight scenario doesn't work in FH5.. Especially if you use telemetry and realize that what you did here is not really grip tuning. Grip tuning not using telemetry is pointless.
Great video, thanks. I am having trouble dialing out mid and exit oversteer on the 1992 Bugatti EB 110. This is for this week's super sport challenge. I am using stock engine and all upgrades with semi slicks. Any ideas or can you share a tune so I can see the settings? Cheers
Im yet to actually build a Buggati in FH5 , I've been focusing on Everyday cars etc. I would suggest losing your rear Springs , dampers, rebound and then turning up your front Damping and rebound. I would also advice Slicks 👍
Great video i do alot of tuning so it's interesting to see what other people do and for the most part i do the same as you except I use semi slicks on s1 most of the time and add a little more power. I put slicks on s2 of course but i also use aero on s1 and above you can always lower your down force but the rear wing usually lowers pi so i always go for it to add some extra bits. Great video though.👍
The club I'm with does alot of bracket racing so we tend to keep things A800 ,S1,S2. Mainly A800 touge style races and S1/2 on a Long route. As a club rule we banned Aero for races so I've had to perfect the tunes to be competitive. I tend to use Slicks on all my builds due to cornering speed and being able to keep up the average speed. I think one of the only builds I used semi slicks was a R53 Mini A800 , it has a crazy amount of grip naturally which allowed me to save PI to get more power. Thanks for the great feedback and tuning in 😎👊
@@cowpiekiller If you drive in a club that set out rules for races then naturally yes, his tuning will fit his play style. I think it’s a pretty good base for A classe as you don’t usually have the room for Aero, so the handling of the car relies heavily on the tune.
Just a quick question I have a couple cars tune When I use my controller with those cars I can get a good leaderboard time times. But when I use my wheel those cars seem to lose control easier than when I use my controller is it my tune or is it the settings on my wheel that’s the problem.?
Great question, when using a wheel you will feel exactly what the car is doing. With a controller it's max left and right etc when turning and no actual feel so you can be alot more aggressive with your adjustments , when tuning for your wheel use cars you have to be alot more realistic and precise with what your adjusting. Suspension and anti roll bar tuning make a big difference to under steer and initial turn in when on the wheel as this can be felt through the force feedback. I find my wheel settings that I'm happy with then leave them and tune each individual car. I personally don't use a controller anymore 👍
What does differential settings? I like make own builds (I love fwd) but for tests I download few fwd builds and ppl use rally suspension with rally differential what is difference between this two?
I beleave its the stock settings that differ. I use Race diffs for my grip cars. I shall have a dabble with Rally and see if I can find any difference with them. I have built a Off road car and used a rally diff and found the standard settings were different. I find with some FWD cars the standard diff is best untill about 300+ bhp. Ive recently spent alot more time building A800 FWD cars for touge bracket style racing on the mountain and have learnt alot more about FWD cars in the process. The 106 Rally , Mk1 Civic and Mk1 Golf GTI are my favourites so far.
if weight balance is 54% in the front then its 46% in the rear(100 - 54 = 46). so you would x by .54 for front calculations. then you x by .46 for rear calculations.
Do you use traction control ? I usually don't use it but tried it today against the AI, and made my car much more predicable, i did have to adjust the tune because it gave a bit of understeer.
@@wheelspintv6864 Yea same here, but since they changed the AI you need all the tools in your toolbox to win, a high powered RWD street car without TCR will give too much spin at the start, atleast if you're racing against unbeatable, you allready lost.
Im building a 16 A Class Type R and my result from the equation is bigger than the max. I dont know if it's because FWD or I'm as bright as a tire. My front is 65%
That would have been worked out wrong but don't worry we all do it 🤣. Remember Max minutes minimum x 0.65 for front then add Minimum back on 👍 , ps its 0.35 for the rear.
@@wheelspintv6864 So I wasn't doing the equation in the right steps. I would do (Max - min) then continue the equation instead of hitting equals. It was causing some funk, I'm now building a Vauxhall Lotus Carlton
Thanks for the video. I've seen this min max formula go around quite a bit. This basically mean that if your car had a theoretical 100% weight on the front, you'd want max spring on front and min spring on rear. What I find a bit strange is that it's assume that the min and max spring boundaries are correctly fitted for the car, which is a big IF in my book :/ For instance if you apply a car weight reduction upgrade, wouldn't you want to soften your spring rates accordingly ?
The springs, dampers tuning is all done after the modifications are completed, if you make an upgrade and change the balance of the car then the tuning will need to be done again. The boundaries as you mention doesn't matter as your calculating the weight ratio of the entire vehicle , by doing this your centering the mass of the car so its balanced when cornering. Its like having your Real car corner weighted and set up. I Hope this helps 😎👍
@@mikipompon2024 its the percentage number. he should call it weight balance instead of ratio because ratio makes people thing its power to weight ratio. its just the balance... if your care is 54% then that is what you use for front stuff an then you use 46% for rear stuff.
Thank you SO much! I needed this. Such a detailed comprehensive explanation. I have never played Forza Horizon before 5, and this made me understand tuning vehicles SO WELL! I was wondering if you also have a system for dirt cars? Or if this system works for them as well?
Your formula is written incorrectly buddy. The real way your formula should be written is (Max - Min) × Weight Ratio + Min. Don't forget the order of operations my man. I suggest an annotation. Other than that good job.
100% will be coming , sos I've been out the game for a few days I've been layed up in bed with Covid. I'm about to do a How to Drift video then a How to Drift tune video will be coming shortly. I'll try and get the pair done this week now I'm off work 😎👍
HI, i found your video really helpful, currently i'm trying to learning to drift with wheel following your advices, and i'm starting to show improvements, so thank you,really. I've got a stupid question. On this older video of yours ua-cam.com/video/v6rIHzrpOfk/v-deo.html at 32:00 how can you downshift that fast? i can heel and toe and match rev but that was really quick and precise. i mean, probably i coud do it that fast but not with that precision
@@wheelspintv6864 Me too. i think i've start doing it while playing dirt rally at least five years ago. at the time i was working for a delivery company so i was driving 6 to 8 hours at day so i've got a lot of time to practice. i don't know maybe it's the different feels between real pedals and sim pedals, plus the fact that i recently switch from a g27 to a t300 and i''m still trying to get the right feel of the brake with the mod. Anyway those dowshifts sounded really good XD
How heavy a car front and rear are. So if a car weights 1000kg and has a 60% weight on the front and 40% on the rear the car has 600kg on the front and 400kg on the rear. I don't know how to calculate it , but the dude in the video probably explains how to do it.
hey there, i just bought the TM T248, I put all ur appreciated settings u mentioned in the past (ua-cam.com/video/ahUYYSNs-ik/v-deo.html&ab_channel=WheelSpinTV). Now I gotta do the car tuning but it rly looks complicated 2 me. The fun of wheel driving with FH5 is like zero atm. In addition I do not understand every part in this video (I am german). Is there a way to get ur tuning-settings in a shorter way? I saw, there is a possibility for setting the tuning from other players ingame. Can I find u here somehow? Or do u have a short list/overview that I can see how to tune my car? I even dont have the Nissan 3702 yet and Idk what to do now.. Btw: Ty so much for the videos! Really great work!!
Thanks for tuning in 😎 👊 Once you have done the process a couple of times it really is easy , it takes me around 3 minutes a car. It probably sounds harder then it is. The formula is Max - Min x Weight Ratio + Min , you use this on Springs , dampers , rebound and anti roll bars. When multiplying your weight ratio use this , if your car is 56% front then you would multiply by 0.56 for the front and 0.44 for the back. The camber etc is set up from telementry but i usually run 1.4 front 1.0 on the rear and go from there. Caster at 5.5/6 on Grip cars and usually drop the tire pressure 2psi front and back. That will give you a good base tune to work from. Keep at the wheel I promise it will become easier with time 😎
this tuning guide mostly covers realistic tuning methods, which aren’t terrible, but are much slower than meta settings in the context of forza
on lots of cars, mostly awd swap ones,
lower tire pressure, shorter gears, less camber and max caster, using 1-65 arbs, softer springs and higher ride height, softer rebound and bump settings, max front aero and lower rear (or more if its rwd), and aggressive differential settings will make any car turn much more and be much more responsive
it might make it too oversteery but increase front arb, more centered diff balance in awd, or higher rear aero if it has too much oversteer
I love grip tunes, untill you learn that everyone driving online wants to be far ahead of everyone and rams you into walls and dirt EVEN when your playing driveatars and you winning, you will still punted into the phantom zone
i hate driveatars what i find anoying as hell is they stick to the road like glue you can t bone the pricks as top speed and they hardly move they can take cars around corners far faster then a player can hell on higher difficulties they can make cars go faster then they can nothing like seeing some shit box go 450 when you can hardly go 400 with out sacrificing corning grip.
The formula is obviously the one used in the majority of Forza Horizon 4 tuning guides (the one i stumbled upon first was HokiHoshi's, btw) - however, there are some issues that has to be pointed out - as there have been significant changes regarding handling characteristics since Forza Horizon 4.
- The weight distribution is unquestionably the main guide for us tuners, yet one aspect is often overlooked: the total weight of the car. As you may read the suspension info to the right, "stiffer suspension travels more weight" yet if the car is, for example under 1000 kg (or 2200 lbs.) there will be a lot less weight to travel and the suspension will start to become obsolete: yes it's expected that while cornering, less travel is better but no travel is even worse because your tires will need that weight travel upon them for a healthy contact patch to the road. On the other hand, if the car weighs more than 1250-1300 kg (or 2800 lbs.), you'll need more travel but again, find the sweet spot of stiffness for the same reason. So how to set this up, properly? By fine-tuning for a little less stiffness for lighter cars and a little more for heavier cars, after applying the formula given in the video. You can even do that by using the suspension telemetry, cornering at low and high speeds and observing the amount of travel the springs are experiencing. Make sure none of them bottoms out. The same goes for anti-roll bars: You don't need stiffer adjustment when there is less weight to mitigate the body roll because stiffer-than-needed settings will effect handling negatively. The rebound and bump settings are pretty much obey the formula, yet i find it better to multiply rebound values with 0.63 rather than 0.5 (to calculate bump) in order to prevent excessive jumpiness of the vehicle at high speeds and maybe even lower rebound a little after the calculation, if the car is lighter than say, 2500 lbs. As RWD car handling is drastically improved in Forza Horizon 5 (compared to FH4), min-maxing anti-roll and suspension settings sometimes works wonders yet may not be applicable for all vehicles. AWD cars are more tolerant on that matter, yet you should always consider the engine position and car weight change after a swap (if there is any) before min-maxing since it's the heaviest internal component of the car :)
- Observing the alignment (camber, toe-in, caster) telemetry on roundabouts is often misleading: you should find an inclined road with good amount of corners to carry out alignment settings - because while climbing up, the majority of the weight is on your rear wheels and climbing down, it's on the front: so it'll be better to observe your alignment accordingly (for example: observe front right setting while driving downhill on a left corner, rear left setting while driving uphill on a right corner etc.) It is also better to adjust caster angle higher than 5 in order to get negative front camber without setting it too low (for example: adjusting -1.2 front camber/4.5 caster will yield nearly the same as -0.2 camber/5.5 caster) but as your front springs will be more parallel to the ground, your rebound/bump will be less affected by excessive weight travel. However, it's better for your front camber to stay in negative range so, adjust your caster angle to ensure you see no positive values at the telemetry screen. Rear camber is independent of this setting.
- Lastly, you should consider the engine swap mechanics when adjusting the gear ratios: some swaps (racing engines, mostly) sacrifice max. torque for power because they often have less displacement in order to be lighter even if they utilize higher number of cylinders (except rally engines). If this is the case, you need shorter ratios at higher gears in order to avoid inefficient torque distribution. Engine displacement upgrade sometimes helps but not that much. If such a swap also includes camshaft upgrade, since your rpm band broadens (meaning; your red-line increases) you should consider installing race transmissions with more gears. The clutch upgrade depends more on your control setup but will be required if you are driving in auto or manual without the clutch option.
This "find an inclined road with good amount of corners to carry out alignment settings" good thinking. I'm going to include this into my test track. It's those downhill turns that gets you from time to time. I am also after a total weight vs baseline spring stiffness. Drift suspension because of it's extreme stiffness is not always optimal. I lift my height slightly to introduce functional bodyroll.
The formula is basic algebra
this has to be the best tuning video hands down, no shortcuts this dude actually explains what youre doing and WHY. I can finally tune my own cars now and its so much more fun all thanks to this vid. Youre a beast for this one man thank you
Thank you for your tips. Very helpful.
This is a set of calculations I made to make some set up tasks quicker.
The first column is front weight %.
The second column is anti roll. the max/min is 1/65. Many cars use this range (as far as I know).
The third and fourth columns are rebound/bump values. 1/10 and 1/20 min/max work in FH 4 while 1/20 is applied to FH 5.
Forza Horizon 4 and 5 suspension setting guide.
Front weight Anti-roll Rebound/Bump
% 1/65 1/10 1/20
40 26.8 4.6/2.7 9.8/5.8
41 27.2 4.7/2.8 10.0/5.8
42 27.8 4.8/2.9 10.1/6.1
43 28.5 4.9/2.9 10.3/6.2
44 29.1 5.0/3.0 10.5/6.3
45 29.8 5.0/3.0 10.6/6.3
46 30.4 5.1/3.1 10.8/6.5
47 31.0 5.2/3.1 10.9/6.5
48 31.7 5.3/3.2 11.1/6.6
49 32.3 5.4/3.2 11.3/6.8
50 33.0 5.5/3.3 11.5/6.9
51 33.6 5.6/3.3 11.6/6.9
52 34.3 5.7/3.4 11.8/7.0
53 34.9 5.7/3.4 12.0/7.2
54 35.5 5.8/3.5 12.2/7.3
55 36.2 5.9/3.5 12.3/7.4
56 36.8 6.0/3.6 12.5/7.5
57 37.5 6.1/3.6 12.7/7.6
58 38.1 6.2/3.7 12.8/7.7
59 38.7 6.3/3.8 13.0/7.8
60 39.4 6.4/3.8 13.2/7.9
Spring Strength Calculation.
Front: (((Max setting - Min setting) x front weight balance %) + Min Setting) = ______
Rear: (((Max setting - Min setting) x (100 - front weight balance %)) + Min Setting) = ______
For the gear ratio tune set the final ratio to 4.10. Make 1st as high as you can and still take off. Make top gear redline once during the duration of the circuit. Distribute the remaining gears between first and top. After a bit of practice you will find you can fine tune the intermediate gears for particular corners or braking zones.
With my set up (G-25, auto, left foot braking, home built race station, pc, no assists) I find altering brake pressure to 60% in my base tune is a good place to start. This curbs the tendency to lock up easily when set at 100%. With the lock up under control I can then use the brake to trigger a down shift. I can then maximize my gear ratios to move down shifts where I want them. I also find it easier to trail brake at 60%
I like tuning cars with less power. It's fun.
Could you teach me?
@@keshawncooley7937 Sure, how can I help.
For the ARB values, do you mean ONLY front ARB? From the looks of it, it seems to only indicate the front.
@@Lionfish5656 The ARB works like this. If the weight balance is 45% towards the front, then the rear value will be 55%.
100% - 45% = 55%
The front and rear values added together always equal 100%. Therefore the values given in the table work for both front and rear ARB calculations.
@patrick247two how would the bump & rebound stiffness correspond to weight distribution?
For those who don’t know:
Some engine’s power graphs, like the 6.2 V8’s, end just as the power and torque meet. Upgrading cams will get you around this, but comes at a PI cost.
Nice one geezer!
I used your method in FH4 and now in FH5.
It works.
Really well..!
I’ve just got a wheel and watched your setup guide.
Perfect!
Better than Hoki Hoshi!
Keep the videos coming mate.
Much appreciated.
THE best tune guide out there!! Vary detailed and gives you an in depth understanding of all the tune details!!! Great job!!!
Thank you very much for this guide. I can finally enjoy it with my new set of G29. Previously it's always understeering or washing out every where. Now I can finally control and enjoy a fun drive! So much to learn with all these settings. Thanks again!
hi..just want to say, your formula about tuning your car in forza 5 has really created a whole other play joy use that formula on my all my cars many thanks
The only tuning guide you’ll need. I’ve done everything this lad says and am so much better.
Oh yeah, gave your tuning formula a try and it instantly made cars more grippier on my steering wheel. Thanks a bunch, game is slowly but surely becoming playable and fun for me, I'm getting less frustrated with every play session.
I don't know anything about tuning at all, it all flies over my head even when explained, but your formula is simple to use and has been producing good results for me.
Another thing I learned to do is to swap RWD for AWD drivetrains, at least personally AWD is much easier to drive on my wheel, and also changing the gearing to 6 gear for cars that have over 6, as I use manual + clutch and my physical shifter only has 6 gears.
Thanks for the great feedback 😀. 4wd will definitely give you more grip for sure as your experience grows you will Start enjoying the RWD cars aswell. Keep em lower powered and learn to slide and then keeping them tamed becomes easy enough. I'm glad your enjoying the game 😎👊
this video is a godsend, I've always just used tune's on the tuning area because tuning a car personally just seemed so overwhelming and seemed way too confusing for my brain to understand, but the way you explain things and give the necessary info for each individual tune is amazing, keep it up bro!
Ridiculously good! Struggled to beat seasonal speed zone 180mph! Always around 7mph off - 2019 Bugatti Divo with no engine mods just suspension and tuning... 180.26 mph 😁😁
That's without diff upgrade aswell!
Brilliant! Thank you
You can use race suspension and adjust the tune how drift is to catch the car the same. You'll notice the camber and Toe are similar but race is a little less numbers than drift suspension is. Also race ride hight isn't as low as drift. So you can run race suspension and then set the numbers the same as drifting numbers.
Thank you, have never try even to try understand how it's work, but now finally I have a good explanation for every situation I need to know thanks to you💥💥
Thanks for watching and the great feedback I appreciate it 😎👊
This seem very similar to your Forza horizon 4 setting calculation . Number of the percentage seem change but it a great help.
Always look forward to your video and also recommend to people.
Keep up the great content!
It is pretty much the same with a few tweeks 😎👍 . Still using Drift suspension but we now have different differentials to use. I also lowered the damping percentage and anti roll bars tuning is down 2 points. Diff tuning is different on acceleration , I find these diff's lock up on a much lower numbers but not a hug amount has changed 👍 thanks for watching 👊
I incorporated your formula into a spreadsheet. All I gotta do is input the front weight ratio and the Min-Max Spring values, then the desired settings are are all calculated for me :)
@Dan Hardy docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Swwm5ouAWB1i_V3tjd7iflWx8hF0Mr7VS2zfBVYadag/edit?usp=sharing
@Dan Hardy it only calculates REBOUND & BUMP STIFFNESS, SPRING STIFFNESS and ANTI-ROLL. I have my own settings for everything else.
Yo man i appreciate it this helped alot been getting in to more of the touge side of forza not necessarily competitive racing but touge runs solo or with a couple people was able to make my car the way i wanted,made a s14 276 hp touge build but now i know what to tune and the math side of things thank you man
I've been doing the same myself with some friends. We have been doing the Mountain drift zone with A800 grip set ups. It makes for some close racing and really enjoyable 😎👊
Great video but you have caster angle backwards. The higher the number postive the more the caster leans back. 0 degrees is truly vertical and negative caster is when the car is leaning over forward. Google caster angle and you'll see what I mean. Everything else you said is spot on. I'm an auto tech and do alignments daily.
Thanks brother. With that formula and knowing how to tweek it from there my cars are performing like crazy
damnn i love this guide
Great video mate, fairly new to tunning and FH5 so this is really helpful, very well made as well, it is full of info and to the point.
Great video! You helped me understand the suspension work ✌ Just got back into playing forza. I know how to tune the gears on most of the cars, but the suspension work always eluded my understanding. So you can imagine, most of my cars are what I like to call "cracked out" meaning they have massive power but no way to displace it properly throughout the car. So im always in the dirt. I drive pretty well, I'd say, but I felt the tunes were always what had me all over the road. I play on a controller but I have a sense for throttle control, im not one to mash the gas and see what happens, I like keeping my car on the road 🤣
I have a question about tire temperatures:
Do you know if the the tire differences between the inner & outer portions of the tire being no more than 20°F applies regardless of Speed?
I notice that on my first gear, my tunes often meet the small differences rule, especially for the outside tires that go faster when in a turn. But when I get into higher speeds, the sides of the tires start to significantly differ from one another & in some cases, at least one of the tires flips in temperature, particularly the the one that moves faster in a corner I.E the outer tire in a turn.
I cannot seem to find a proper set of camber nor tire pressure for any of my cars. I realize that camber, tire pressure & caster all contribute to tire temperatures.
My general tuning rules tend to follow the weight distribution of the car with the springs, damping, braking being promotional to the weight of the car @ that end (EG 40% of weight @ the front means 40% stiffness for springs & damping & 60% of breaking power shifted to the back.)
I need some clarification on the tire temps at different speeds.
I am wondering if my general rule has flaws or if I am missing something E.G that my differentials are not properly tuned & my wheels are not going @ the appropriate speed when cornering.
Works like a charm, well done! Do you have a formula for Off Road / Cross Country?
new sub bro..great vid..best tuning guide out there period..
Always love your informative videos man. Thanks and keep it up bro.
Actually the rear/front balance is messed up, when u put it to the rear u put more brakes into the front. Saw it on big forza channel players.
Great video, I knew the basics but didn't know what were the extreme vs normal values
Thanks for the great feedback 😎👍
Any plans to do a video on Rally/ or off road racing or can this be used on that also.
@@michaelbeasley3151 not currently, my next video will be a drifting tutorial 😎👍
Super helpful thank you!! Cant wait to try this out when I get home!
Love the way you explain stuff. Formulas very helpful as well…has really helped me.
❤thank you very much! best tuning guide out there. i can finally get a balanced base tune to start with on any car. other videos are guesswork. you lay out the math and it made a big difference for me.
Thanks for the great feedback I really appreciate it 😎👊 I'm glad it helped.
Thank you for the calculation you legend. I have about 700 plus tunes and started using this for all my baseline (1st stage) tunes since Aug 2022. Question, is there a formula for total car weight vs overall spring stiffness (meaning more than the ratio balance between front and back)?
Give your black cat a pat haha
Mate this has changed everything for me Thankyou
So question with your formula... max - min x weight ratio + min ... doesnt the -min amd the +min cancel themselves out?? So that would just be nonsense so basically just max x weight ratio.....
max = 1000. min = 200. balance = 54%.
your way. 1000 x 54% = 540.
his way (1000 - 200) x 54% + 200 = 632.
when testing and adjusting front camber ive noticed that some cars the inside tire will be the lower number but other cars the outside tire is the lower number. what causes this? i would think the outside tire is the more important one since it has more pressure on the ground so more grip? raising ride height can make the outside tire the one that gets closest to zero. also lower caster will do that as well. is it worth it? does it make a difference in the game?
also, regardless which tire gets closest to zero... would it be worth it to lower caster to make both inside and outside closer to being the same? so for example, instead of front inside being around -0.12 and outside being -1.28... lower caster so inside stays the same but outside is now -0.20 or something like that?
As always, You always provide great videos 🙌👍
Thank for the kind words 😎👍
How would you fix a car that looses grip and control in the back two tires in the first gear when getting off the line or accelerating from one gear to second and so on
About to grab some breakfast first then coming home to have a sit nice down. Today is the day I will get some decent driving in. Good look out on the video. I'll be right here ready for the next drop.
Thanks for tuning in fella 😎👍
Your maths is off on bump stiffness and rebound. I do a similar calculation myself, but you should calculate bump stiffness without the +1, which you then add afterwards. That is 19 x 0.52 = 9.88 (+1 = 9.9); 9.88 x 0.55 = 5.434. If you add 1 to the last figure, you get 5.5 (bump). Ditto the rear: 19 x 0.48 = 9.12 (+1 = 10.1); 9.12 x 0.55 = 5.016, which gives you an overall figure of 6.0.
I used to make the same error myself, and I've seen HokiHoshi do the same. However, the discrepancy is too slight to make a significant difference (I've noticed any great difference in handling), and I'm quite interested in trying your method of tuning.
You mention understeer. Perhaps dropping brake pressure to 60% will help. You may be locking up the brakes as you enter the corner under trail brake, causing your understeer.
Might be a bit counter intuitive, but as you say, "I've tried every setting to fix this."
Nice content my friend,i subs your channel✌️
Thankyou for tuning in and the great feedback, I really appreciate the Sub 😎👍
I just dropped you a Sub too 😎👊
Great video bro, i knew a lot about tuning but i always struggled with front end grip. Changed over to drift springs and car handles way better. Wonder why that is though.
Awesome videos I’ve learned a lot . Thanks!!! Is that a tmx pro steering wheel if it is what’s your settings? Thanks in advance
How did you get that display up that shows tire temperature please? I’m using the Xbox.
Thanks for the video! Your advice shaved off 6 seconds off my time!
where can i get that weight ratio?
Great video and I learnt a lot thank you. I’ve been having a problem with they’re temps versus psi so on a couple of cars. Let’s say the new Brabham RWD I can’t get any heat in the front tyres. They are constantly blue and at kin PsI which can’t be right. Should I ignore the colour and be more concerned about hit 32-34psi at track temp? Same goes for another car where I can’t seem to cool them down. In your video I got the impression to ignore the colour of the temp in the telemetry as long as psi is right and the temp is even throughout. Is that right. Thank you
You're a Don 👌🏼🙏🏻💯 Liked and Subsribed!
How can I find the weight ratio for my car? please help
This formula works perfect with a controller, thanks.
I didnt understand the calculate wight ratio thing and how to calculate it please help
Thanks for tuning in 😎 👊 Once you have done the process a couple of times it really is easy , it takes me around 3 minutes a car. It probably sounds harder then it is. The formula is Max - Min x Weight Ratio + Min , you use this on Springs , dampers , rebound and anti roll bars. When multiplying your weight ratio use this , if your car is 56% front then you would multiply by 0.56 for the front and 0.44 for the back. Obviously Max is the highest number on that setting and minimum the least,. The camber etc is set up from telementry but i usually run 1.4 front 1.0 on the rear and go from there. Caster at 5.5/6 on Grip cars and usually drop the tire pressure 2psi front and back. That will give you a good base tune to work from.
very nice video. totally understandable. ill watch it again when tunning. maybe u got tunes in forza 5 to download ?
great info again you helped me with drifting on fh4 hope this helps against i ai in fh5
I'm hoping to have a drift video up for FH5 by next week, the tuning is slightly different from FH4 but actual drifting skills are the same. I'm glad I could help 😎👍
@WheelSpinTV I'm sure this is just me being dumb but when I turn my AWD '97 skyline it turns at first, but then the front tires lose traction I think because it turns back the other direction and there are skid marks. So like if I try to turn left it starts to turn left and then swings back to the right a little bit. Is there something I should be doing?
Best way to test what's going on is on a Roundabout in this case. Do the wheels turn back without steering ? Or is the front pushing wide ? I would loosen off the front springs , damping rebound , anti roll bars and see if that helps.
Love your videos. You explain everything in a nice and easy way. One thing though. How do I know what parts to use, or do you use the same ones all the time? I have noticed that some parts doesn't come with sport, race, off-road, rally, drift and so on. Thats the hardest part for me. What parts to go with.
Thanks that means alot 😎👊. It really depends on what I'm trying to build. I use drift suspension on everything that has it unless it's 4wd which I will use race suspension for ( both used for grip tuning) I always use race diffs. The rest is dependent on the build, use and class I'm looking for really. If I'm doing a class car I.E A800 or S1 900 , I will always start with slick tires , width , then suspension, anti roll bars , brakes and then move onto engine last. I follow the philosophy that Corner speed gives quicker times. The majority of tracks are twisty and require grip over power. I hope this helps 😎👊
@@wheelspintv6864 thank you. That makes it a bit easier. Now I know where to start.
The weight scenario doesn't work in FH5.. Especially if you use telemetry and realize that what you did here is not really grip tuning. Grip tuning not using telemetry is pointless.
Great job on this man! Thx
Thanks so much. Exactly what I’ve been looking for. Sub…
Great video, thanks. I am having trouble dialing out mid and exit oversteer on the 1992 Bugatti EB 110. This is for this week's super sport challenge. I am using stock engine and all upgrades with semi slicks. Any ideas or can you share a tune so I can see the settings? Cheers
Im yet to actually build a Buggati in FH5 , I've been focusing on Everyday cars etc. I would suggest losing your rear Springs , dampers, rebound and then turning up your front Damping and rebound. I would also advice Slicks 👍
@@wheelspintv6864 thanks, tried slicks, even worse. Will try your other suggestions. Actually won easily in an upgraded Nova super sport.😀
Great video i do alot of tuning so it's interesting to see what other people do and for the most part i do the same as you except I use semi slicks on s1 most of the time and add a little more power. I put slicks on s2 of course but i also use aero on s1 and above you can always lower your down force but the rear wing usually lowers pi so i always go for it to add some extra bits. Great video though.👍
I also tune for A and S1 mainly
The club I'm with does alot of bracket racing so we tend to keep things A800 ,S1,S2. Mainly A800 touge style races and S1/2 on a Long route. As a club rule we banned Aero for races so I've had to perfect the tunes to be competitive. I tend to use Slicks on all my builds due to cornering speed and being able to keep up the average speed. I think one of the only builds I used semi slicks was a R53 Mini A800 , it has a crazy amount of grip naturally which allowed me to save PI to get more power. Thanks for the great feedback and tuning in 😎👊
@@wheelspintv6864 you play a time attack based game and ban aero? I trust this tuning like a bridge seller in flordia.
@@cowpiekiller If you drive in a club that set out rules for races then naturally yes, his tuning will fit his play style. I think it’s a pretty good base for A classe as you don’t usually have the room for Aero, so the handling of the car relies heavily on the tune.
I did basically evrything you said in this video but I coudlnt get it to stop spinning in first gear all the way through 4 and it it’s only cornering
Never mind I switched it to AWD and it just worked
Just a quick question I have a couple cars tune When I use my controller with those cars I can get a good leaderboard time times. But when I use my wheel those cars seem to lose control easier than when I use my controller is it my tune or is it the settings on my wheel that’s the problem.?
Great question, when using a wheel you will feel exactly what the car is doing. With a controller it's max left and right etc when turning and no actual feel so you can be alot more aggressive with your adjustments , when tuning for your wheel use cars you have to be alot more realistic and precise with what your adjusting. Suspension and anti roll bar tuning make a big difference to under steer and initial turn in when on the wheel as this can be felt through the force feedback. I find my wheel settings that I'm happy with then leave them and tune each individual car. I personally don't use a controller anymore 👍
What does differential settings?
I like make own builds (I love fwd) but for tests I download few fwd builds and ppl use rally suspension with rally differential what is difference between this two?
I beleave its the stock settings that differ. I use Race diffs for my grip cars. I shall have a dabble with Rally and see if I can find any difference with them. I have built a Off road car and used a rally diff and found the standard settings were different. I find with some FWD cars the standard diff is best untill about 300+ bhp. Ive recently spent alot more time building A800 FWD cars for touge bracket style racing on the mountain and have learnt alot more about FWD cars in the process. The 106 Rally , Mk1 Civic and Mk1 Golf GTI are my favourites so far.
"front pushing wide" what do you mean by that?
Interesting video. Thumbs up
My car keeps under steering after doing all the math, how do I go about fixing that issue and redoing the math over?
How did you get two different numbers for front and rear what did I miss here
if weight balance is 54% in the front then its 46% in the rear(100 - 54 = 46).
so you would x by .54 for front calculations. then you x by .46 for rear calculations.
How does this change for cross-country or dirt racing?
Where is this guide for gearing?
Does this tune work in rally cars?
if your tires are in 28 psi or lower your car grips like crazy... it's so broken.
Please tell me you’ve done a telemetry video
What total wheel rotation do you use?
Do you use traction control ? I usually don't use it but tried it today against the AI, and made my car much more predicable, i did have to adjust the tune because it gave a bit of understeer.
Hi and thanks for tuning in, No I don't use any aids it's part of the fun for me 😎👍 it is easier with TCS don't get me wrong 👊
@@wheelspintv6864 Yea same here, but since they changed the AI you need all the tools in your toolbox to win, a high powered RWD street car without TCR will give too much spin at the start, atleast if you're racing against unbeatable, you allready lost.
@Charlie: Thank you!
Very, very good! Thank you
Thanks for tuning in 😎 👊
Solid content I rebuilt the same car
I love the game 4 and 5 but l try all now l have some experience
This is give you lil ideea basics
Im building a 16 A Class Type R and my result from the equation is bigger than the max. I dont know if it's because FWD or I'm as bright as a tire. My front is 65%
That would have been worked out wrong but don't worry we all do it 🤣. Remember Max minutes minimum x 0.65 for front then add Minimum back on 👍 , ps its 0.35 for the rear.
@@wheelspintv6864 So I wasn't doing the equation in the right steps. I would do (Max - min) then continue the equation instead of hitting equals. It was causing some funk, I'm now building a Vauxhall Lotus Carlton
Thanks for the video. I've seen this min max formula go around quite a bit. This basically mean that if your car had a theoretical 100% weight on the front, you'd want max spring on front and min spring on rear.
What I find a bit strange is that it's assume that the min and max spring boundaries are correctly fitted for the car, which is a big IF in my book :/ For instance if you apply a car weight reduction upgrade, wouldn't you want to soften your spring rates accordingly ?
The springs, dampers tuning is all done after the modifications are completed, if you make an upgrade and change the balance of the car then the tuning will need to be done again. The boundaries as you mention doesn't matter as your calculating the weight ratio of the entire vehicle , by doing this your centering the mass of the car so its balanced when cornering. Its like having your Real car corner weighted and set up. I Hope this helps 😎👍
where can i find the weight ratio of my car
When you add new brakes turbos etc on your motor in the little box on the left side..press y and it'll bring up the horsepower and its below that
@@NorcalChef209 thats the weight not the weight ratio
@@mikipompon2024 its the percentage number. he should call it weight balance instead of ratio because ratio makes people thing its power to weight ratio. its just the balance... if your care is 54% then that is what you use for front stuff an then you use 46% for rear stuff.
@@nothanks3590 😭😭😭😭
Thank you SO much! I needed this. Such a detailed comprehensive explanation. I have never played Forza Horizon before 5, and this made me understand tuning vehicles SO WELL! I was wondering if you also have a system for dirt cars? Or if this system works for them as well?
Can you share your tune with a share code. Need your channel badly as I use a tune app which does make them very drivable but still have to dial it in
Your formula is written incorrectly buddy. The real way your formula should be written is (Max - Min) × Weight Ratio + Min. Don't forget the order of operations my man. I suggest an annotation. Other than that good job.
🎤 3+1 is 4 quick maffs 🎤
Ну вообще-то сначала производится умножение💀
Thankyou
Please drop drift tune vid 🙏🏽
100% will be coming , sos I've been out the game for a few days I've been layed up in bed with Covid. I'm about to do a How to Drift video then a How to Drift tune video will be coming shortly. I'll try and get the pair done this week now I'm off work 😎👍
@@wheelspintv6864 hey bro, I hope everything is aight with you and that. But where have you been? We miss you
12:20 bookmark
HI, i found your video really helpful, currently i'm trying to learning to drift with wheel following your advices, and i'm starting to show improvements, so thank you,really.
I've got a stupid question. On this older video of yours ua-cam.com/video/v6rIHzrpOfk/v-deo.html at 32:00 how can you downshift that fast? i can heel and toe and match rev but that was really quick and precise. i mean, probably i coud do it that fast but not with that precision
Thanks , its great knowing I've helped 😎👍 it's just practice and repetition, I find myself doing it in my Van , car and on computer 🤣
@@wheelspintv6864 Me too. i think i've start doing it while playing dirt rally at least five years ago. at the time i was working for a delivery company so i was driving 6 to 8 hours at day so i've got a lot of time to practice. i don't know maybe it's the different feels between real pedals and sim pedals, plus the fact that i recently switch from a g27 to a t300 and i''m still trying to get the right feel of the brake with the mod. Anyway those dowshifts sounded really good XD
Information overload for me
The naught is very confusing me
hello bro i need help
49 point free?
No work is just like middle tune
In 4 meybe
WHAT TF IS A WEIGHT RATIO
How heavy a car front and rear are. So if a car weights 1000kg and has a 60% weight on the front and 40% on the rear the car has 600kg on the front and 400kg on the rear. I don't know how to calculate it , but the dude in the video probably explains how to do it.
Game is not respect reality driving
Is just basics
hey there,
i just bought the TM T248, I put all ur appreciated settings u mentioned in the past (ua-cam.com/video/ahUYYSNs-ik/v-deo.html&ab_channel=WheelSpinTV).
Now I gotta do the car tuning but it rly looks complicated 2 me. The fun of wheel driving with FH5 is like zero atm. In addition I do not understand every part in this video (I am german). Is there a way to get ur tuning-settings in a shorter way? I saw, there is a possibility for setting the tuning from other players ingame. Can I find u here somehow? Or do u have a short list/overview that I can see how to tune my car? I even dont have the Nissan 3702 yet and Idk what to do now..
Btw: Ty so much for the videos! Really great work!!
Thanks for tuning in 😎 👊 Once you have done the process a couple of times it really is easy , it takes me around 3 minutes a car. It probably sounds harder then it is. The formula is Max - Min x Weight Ratio + Min , you use this on Springs , dampers , rebound and anti roll bars. When multiplying your weight ratio use this , if your car is 56% front then you would multiply by 0.56 for the front and 0.44 for the back. The camber etc is set up from telementry but i usually run 1.4 front 1.0 on the rear and go from there. Caster at 5.5/6 on Grip cars and usually drop the tire pressure 2psi front and back. That will give you a good base tune to work from. Keep at the wheel I promise it will become easier with time 😎