I got everything on the list and some extra stuff ! except bigger turbos but I am making 500whp on stock turbos and E85 so I am pretty happy for now :)
Hey Joel, great video, thanks. I'm surprised that replacing the old cruddy wiring harness didn't make the top 10 list. Also, with increased power, you'll need the Z1 BBK upgrade to ensure you stop as you should.
These are all wrong. Top mods, 1)new suspension, because it's probably clapped out, 2) P/S high pressure hose, because if it's not leaking it will soon. 3) Timing belt kit, ticking time bomb of the interference engine, plus leaking oil. 4) Knock sensor and harness, because it's probably bad. 5)Replace all the vacuum hoses, it's leaking somewhere. 6) Replace all the coolant hoses because they are also probably leaking, or getting ready too. 7) Replace fuel lines.. Also probably going to leak 8)Valve cover gaskets, also probably leaking 9) New injectors, they are probably out of spec. 10) New wire harness, because all the clips probably broke while doing the work above, if the terminals aren't already covered in corrosion. Then you'll have a happy running reliable Z.
but that just gets you back to the standard performance apart from and engine fresh up so it's still slower than when it was new. but all you said is true and should be done before mods if you can afford them.
things i have done to my base model 1990 N/A 2+0 5sp over the 20 years+ that i have owned it. i reduced as much turning an rolling weight on the N/A as possible, like fitting a light weight steel flywheel + HD clutch plate, full set of under drive pulleys with the over drive water pump pulley, ditch the clutch fan and fit large thermo fan, air intake pod, set of S/S extractors/ headers, S/S test pipes non cat, S/S magna flow twin outlet mufflers and x muffler, single piece tail shaft, standard TT injectors in NA rail, ecu chipped eprom, new coil packs, also did every delete possible for N/A reducing weight there's a lot of things you can remove, and i don't run massive rims and tyres i run stock rims now with 245/50 tyres front and rear lowered over them. i also removed all the Aircon pump and components or you could just take belt off. when you ain't got big twin turbos going for power to weight is a big thing for N/A by not adding bolt on pretty shit like wings spoilers and side skirts and you will have a nice little weapon for short runs on the street. the base model is the lightest version including the slick top NA with out all the junk from factory. i love all ZEDS just not riced out ones. not a good look for my age. lol
@sergioramirez6767 to start with i weigh 60kg plus not everyone has a big budget to spend on big turbo's and a lot of people have NA manuals. were not looking to do rolling drags on the freeway at crazy speeds. but i can guarantee ill be gone from the lights before you catch me in 3 gear by then it's over on the street and i win.
@sergioramirez6767 im talking your general stock twin turbo 4 seater automatic ide even say another 2 seater auto TT . I have fleeced them a number of times at traffic light runs up to the top end of 3rd gear. but buy that time it's all over or you will end up in jail here in Australia or you'll have your car confiscated and crushed if your caught by the cops or reported. Plus i have had my z32 for well over 20yrs and im not a young dude out drag racing everyone to prove a point that weight is a big factor when you only have a 3lt non turbo car. Im sure you have a very quick zed and would blow my doors off.
What he failed to note: Get a high-flow exhaust BEFORE high-flow intakes! I have multiple friends who blew their engines (mostly VR30's) because they put air intakes on a restrictive stock exhaust.
Why do all these tuners always recommend dual AFM... the first modification i did was Link ECU with map sensor and removed the rubbish AFM. Now i can have dual air pod filters and no restrictions on the intake. And before people say cost add having to pay for another AFM, nistune chip and tune. Very little difference in cost to do it properly
Just bolt the TT stuff to the NA. You just can't turn the boost up high until you replace the pistons or run E85. Put some Wiseco pistons in the NA block and it will take 600whp easy.
@@kaikenjr with the stock N/A pistons? It's fine, that is why you keep the boost lower or use E85. 10psi on a TT motor will make a lot less power than 10psi on a N/A motor. Which is where lots of people were making mistakes. They'd use a TT tune on a N/A block, run lean and boom.
@@kaikenjr IDK if any one has a detailed list of parts. You basically just need, the turbo's, manifolds, JDM down pipes, turbo oil lines, turbo water lines, intercoolers, intercooler pipes, recirc valves, under headlight elbows, intake pipes, TT oil pan, or add drain backs to the N/A pan. Fuel injectors. Some way to tune it. TT also has an oil cooler but you do not need it. If you want to add one, you can get a sandwich plate kit from Z1.
Everything but 9 and 10 so far. 👌👌👌
I got everything on the list and some extra stuff ! except bigger turbos but I am making 500whp on stock turbos and E85 so I am pretty happy for now :)
It would be interesting to know the amount $$$ of that pak , 500hp is sweet 😅
1. Timing belt kit
2. New engine wire harness
3. Conplete fuel upgrade(rail,injector, hoses)
4. Suspension
5. Deletes (plenum coolant, pcv, hicas and more)
6.intake, 3" exhaust and downpipes
7. Haltech ecu
8. For turbo 2.5" intercooler piping and upgrade intercooler/s
9. Turbo upgrade
10. More maintenance
Hey Joel, great video, thanks.
I'm surprised that replacing the old cruddy wiring harness didn't make the top 10 list. Also, with increased power, you'll need the Z1 BBK upgrade to ensure you stop as you should.
The D.I.S.C.O. box sounds interesting...hope it works with N/A models also.
These are all wrong. Top mods, 1)new suspension, because it's probably clapped out, 2) P/S high pressure hose, because if it's not leaking it will soon. 3) Timing belt kit, ticking time bomb of the interference engine, plus leaking oil. 4) Knock sensor and harness, because it's probably bad. 5)Replace all the vacuum hoses, it's leaking somewhere. 6) Replace all the coolant hoses because they are also probably leaking, or getting ready too. 7) Replace fuel lines.. Also probably going to leak 8)Valve cover gaskets, also probably leaking 9) New injectors, they are probably out of spec. 10) New wire harness, because all the clips probably broke while doing the work above, if the terminals aren't already covered in corrosion. Then you'll have a happy running reliable Z.
but that just gets you back to the standard performance apart from and engine fresh up so it's still slower than when it was new. but all you said is true and should be done before mods if you can afford them.
Oh thats all?
Right. What’s the point of “upgrade” a unreliable ride due poor maintenance… just to show off?
lmfao this guy has definitely worked on too many Z's. you gotta relax sometimes by working on an easier to work on car
This was so incredibly useful. Thanks cor citing specific mods and the actual sources for where to get them. This was very helpful.
Z1 dual MAF kit, that will be a hot seller.
When is it coming out?
0:45 "Soon to be released..." @@Frogg1517
FYI, KLDA labs makes a z32 Dual MAF called the "transmogrifier" same as the discontinued Selin translator.
@@pliang231 cool
Good job Joel
Still waiting for catbat for the 2+2 NA that Z1 said they were working on it , it been years now since they said that.
The Dual Input Single Channel Output sounds great. Wondering where it will be mounted
I live in NC and looking for a reputable repair shop to do the work on my 1992 300zx twin turbo. I've been looking for years.
I am definitely experiencing that shimmy
things i have done to my base model 1990 N/A 2+0 5sp over the 20 years+ that i have owned it. i reduced as much turning an rolling weight on the N/A as possible, like fitting a light weight steel flywheel + HD clutch plate, full set of under drive pulleys with the over drive water pump pulley, ditch the clutch fan and fit large thermo fan, air intake pod, set of S/S extractors/ headers, S/S test pipes non cat, S/S magna flow twin outlet mufflers and x muffler, single piece tail shaft, standard TT injectors in NA rail, ecu chipped eprom, new coil packs, also did every delete possible for N/A reducing weight there's a lot of things you can remove, and i don't run massive rims and tyres i run stock rims now with 245/50 tyres front and rear lowered over them. i also removed all the Aircon pump and components or you could just take belt off. when you ain't got big twin turbos going for power to weight is a big thing for N/A by not adding bolt on pretty shit like wings spoilers and side skirts and you will have a nice little weapon for short runs on the street. the base model is the lightest version including the slick top NA with out all the junk from factory. i love all ZEDS just not riced out ones. not a good look for my age. lol
@sergioramirez6767 to start with i weigh 60kg plus not everyone has a big budget to spend on big turbo's and a lot of people have NA manuals. were not looking to do rolling drags on the freeway at crazy speeds. but i can guarantee ill be gone from the lights before you catch me in 3 gear by then it's over on the street and i win.
@sergioramirez6767 im talking your general stock twin turbo 4 seater automatic ide even say another 2 seater auto TT . I have fleeced them a number of times at traffic light runs up to the top end of 3rd gear. but buy that time it's all over or you will end up in jail here in Australia or you'll have your car confiscated and crushed if your caught by the cops or reported. Plus i have had my z32 for well over 20yrs and im not a young dude out drag racing everyone to prove a point that weight is a big factor when you only have a 3lt non turbo car. Im sure you have a very quick zed and would blow my doors off.
@sergioramirez6767 of course not your on E85 big injectors probably twin fuel pumps bigger turbos etc etc. ok you win
What he failed to note: Get a high-flow exhaust BEFORE high-flow intakes! I have multiple friends who blew their engines (mostly VR30's) because they put air intakes on a restrictive stock exhaust.
Sorry, …. But Say WHAT???🤣😅
Why do all these tuners always recommend dual AFM... the first modification i did was Link ECU with map sensor and removed the rubbish AFM. Now i can have dual air pod filters and no restrictions on the intake. And before people say cost add having to pay for another AFM, nistune chip and tune. Very little difference in cost to do it properly
My z32 is auto 😢 no ecu for me i tink of swapping a z33 or z34 transmission!!🤨
No comment
Charging 979 for a idle control valve is insane
Still waiting for someone to develop a turbo system or supercharger for an na. Tt swaps are impossible to find and can run 10 ground.
Just bolt the TT stuff to the NA. You just can't turn the boost up high until you replace the pistons or run E85. Put some Wiseco pistons in the NA block and it will take 600whp easy.
@@aaronwlkr what about the compression ratio
@@kaikenjr with the stock N/A pistons? It's fine, that is why you keep the boost lower or use E85. 10psi on a TT motor will make a lot less power than 10psi on a N/A motor. Which is where lots of people were making mistakes. They'd use a TT tune on a N/A block, run lean and boom.
@aaronwlkr I have a new project. Where can I find a detailed layout how to get it done. Parts and labor.
@@kaikenjr IDK if any one has a detailed list of parts. You basically just need, the turbo's, manifolds, JDM down pipes, turbo oil lines, turbo water lines, intercoolers, intercooler pipes, recirc valves, under headlight elbows, intake pipes, TT oil pan, or add drain backs to the N/A pan. Fuel injectors. Some way to tune it. TT also has an oil cooler but you do not need it. If you want to add one, you can get a sandwich plate kit from Z1.
Intercoolers???
Can you guys give us 2+2 guys more aftermarket exhaust support😐
🤔
All the deletes is the cheapest mod!