If you've missed any of the other parts, please check out the full playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PL4dGkbjUvBzrhR53vf2ZbYrxCr84uBwJ1.html I'll include any clarifications and corrections in this comment. If your BLTouch has different colors: New Colors: Brown & Black: Ground Red: 5V Orange: Control Signal White: Z-Min Here's an image: photos.app.goo.gl/4cxeHgk3E1bTJyfn9 Luke J mentioned that if you have the brown/red/orange wires, there is no need to flip the black/white wires.
Kris, Thanks! I finally got my Ender 5 Plus with the SKR 1.4 Turbo board running thanks to your downloadable Marlin 2.0.9.3 with the correct settings already in them! Between that and your video on how to level/tram your Marlin firmware-based printer, I can finally print again! YAY! I would so much like to learn how to use your source of that version to compile my own. However, I get all sorts of errors when I try to compile it myself. If you have step-by-step instructions somewhere on how to do that (I can't seem to find any), I'd sure love to get a link to such a page! Keep up the great work and I look forward to your future videos!
I actually implemented the Dual Z driver configuration on my E5+ and am pleased with the results. The Z auto-alignment (G34) aids with bed leveling, and I never really have to worry about my Z stepper motors getting out of sync (for long at least). If you don't think you're ever going to go the dual extruder route, I would recommend taking advantage of E1 as Z2. The Insanity Automation fork of Marlin (CrealityDwin2.0_Bleeding) makes it easy to enable Dual Z, and also supports the stock touchscreen LCD ... even with the SKR 1.4 / 1.4 Turbo (and I've successfully compiled it for the E3 Mini 2.0 as well).
@@yufan I believe the TFT port on the SKR E3 Mini can be wired up to the DWIN screen (I wired up the SKR V1.4 Turbo "TFT" port to the DWIN screen of my Creality CR-10S Pro with no problems. It was just a matter of finding the pin-out for the DWIN screen and connecting the RX of the screen to the TX of the board and the TX to the RX of the board, plus power and ground connected per normal (5v to 5v, ground to ground). I found the names of the pins on the DWIN board but they were obscured by the connector. Then I found this picture and shared it in imgur for everyone else: So, I don't have the E3 mini board, but the TFT port appears to be the exact same. In the Tiny Machines 3d Marlin 2.0 Firmware, I have to enable the Force10SProDisplay flag. I use build flags at compile time in the PlatformIO extension of MS Visual Code.... so that flag I add is -DForce10SProDisplay along with all the other -D flag that I enable to configure the printer at compile time. Here are some links that may help you: imgur.com/gallery/rcrRf0u imgur.com/kanEegg
@@DaShawnJames-s2n There's not a great solution for that on this board. Since there's only one speed controlled fan, you wouldn't be able to control the speed on a second one. You'd have to hook two fans to the same header, which is not a good idea for multiple reasons.
You have convinced me! I am getting an Ender 5 Plus at the end of the month. I am not afraid of the software but i am pretty dumb with hardware, but with these tutorials i am sure i will be fine. Quality content, continue this and i am sure you will be able to earn a living from UA-cam one day! :)
Thanks for watching and the support! Let me know how that printer works out for you when you get it.The community support for my channel has been terrific!
Hey Kris, I'm *finally* on the verge of dusting off my E5Plus and doing this mod, so I just wanted to say thanks again for all the time you put into this! This is a stellar tutorial (as usual), and I can't wait to get this thing up and running again. It was kinda busted (screen died), and is my only printer, so I bought an Ender 3 V2 just so I could have a working printer to print parts for the big dog. I'm sure I will be referring to this video (and the wiring ones) MULTIPLE times in the very near future. Keep up the great work sir, you are THE man for the Ender 5 Plus!!!
Agree! I have an Ender 5 Plus and the SKR 1.4 Turbo board. Had issues and restored eeprom when I should not have and had to use his repository to get the 2.09 release installed again! Thanks so much!
Nice Work Kersey! Firmware worked first try, wiring pinout was bang on. Had an extra 1.4 Turbo board kicking around and swapped out the Mini E3 Turbo board that was cooking my steppers. A+ on Video, A+ on wiring and Firmware.
For those who may be wondering and have a SKR 2 they are using this guide for in the new version of the board there is a set of pins that enables and disables the sensor less homing and you no longer need to cut your DIAG pin as shown ua-cam.com/video/vS8RM2RPe-s/v-deo.html just simply do not cap it with one of the short caps and you will be fine!
Fine and interesting work! Just yesterday, the board, screen and drivers arrived (without the USB and SD extensions logically) They look great with BTT, the Creality screen is very large for few options) Fine and interesting work! Just yesterday, the board, screen and drivers arrived (without the USB and SD extensions logically) They look great with BTT (the Creality screen is very large for few options) And with Firmware! I'm quite a novice even to understand everything Marlin. Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs OH! YES, for the moment, I will try a while (now I am with many things at once) the silent Creality, I will learn the Vref that work best for me, to be able to make a good comparison, (the display adapter I already printed it, it is very Nice, on the other hand smoke comes out of my head trying to configure Marlin for Ender 3 with SKR 1.3 (indifferent for one or the other TMCs 2208/9) Thank you very much for your help, starting from 0 is difficult, I have learned a lot, with a lot of frustration: -)) I see that I need more and more to learn, I imagine that like many people who did not know what an Arduino is :-)).
(32bits VSCode, what is that? hahaha Let me ask you a question, is the use of the USB and SD display sufficient? later, for communication with the distant PC, with Ponterface .... etc. send G-codes , install the on-board wi-fi module, with a discreet antenna. Very TY!
We all started from scratch at some point, some are just further down the path. I think you're asking can you just use the USB and SD on the display. That should be sufficient for printing but you won't be able to flash the firmware without access to the board's SD slot. As you mentioned, you also won't be able to communicate with the printer directly without the onboard USB.
@@kerseyfabs YES! Once the .bin firmware is installed on the microSD .CUR (sorry for the translations). Exactly! I don't have a powerful enough notebook. By adding the WIFI module to the SKR, just like USB, you can communicate with the PC, with the software, Ponterface or Repetier Host Repetier Server, without the need for a Rasperi Pi?
Tip to address the little bit of wiggle on the terminal end for anyone using Kris's style of bracket; since the mounting holes for the board go all the way through the bracket I simply used a longer screw to attach he board on that end (I used 16mm, 18mm would match the front height more exactly but 16mm and 20mm were what I had on hand). These create sort of stand-off or feet for the bracket at those two points and make it rock solid! Thanks for the videos Kris, it's made all the upgrades to my new Ender 5 Plus a breeze (and factored heavily in my choice of buying the machine over others in the size category)!
Thanks Kris. Great video. I have an Ender 3 pro now, but have an Ender 5+ coming for my birthday in early August (60 yrs old) so your series of video regarding this printer are coming at the best time! Your thoroughness and focus on safety are wonderful. BTW, I will be buying my SKR V1.4 Turbo with your affiliate link and if you put an affiliate link up for the Ender 5+ on Amazon, I'll use that as well.
Happy birthday! Thank you for the kind words. Here's a link to an Amazon Ender 5 Plus (in stock): amzn.to/3eGlBaV I have not ordered from them myself but the company has a good reputation.
You're a youngster! I just had my 69th. Another suggestion, besides Kris, there are a lot of good channels and check out Thingiverse for Ender 5 and 5 Plus things
Oh boy, I am a VERY happy man now! - Got my printer home AND also mainboard! - So right now I am printing the mount for SKR v1.4 Turbo :) And then .... Going to install, and ofcourse using YOUR great firmware also! - With Dual Z THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR GREAT HELP!
Great video! Thank you for showing the wiring correctly none of the other videos out there did a great job with that. The new Ender 5 Plus printers that come out of the factory now have the meanwell 500W power supply as standard and have changed the BLTouch wiring color to the standard orange/brown/red from Antlabs. I just got my second Ender 5 Plus to join my other printers in the print farm and will likely only add these going forward. These machines with some upgrades are fantastic. I exclusively use the SKR 1.4 Turbos on all of my printers and highly recommend it. I'll be adding the exoslide to this one as a test, since these run 24/7 I'm sick of the delrin wheels.
Hi Intrepid,(Or Kris), I have a E5Plus as well with the orange/brown/red wires for the BL Touch. I'm installing my SKR 1.4T right now. Could you tell me the proper orientation for the servo plug with these colors. I'm not sure what the colors signify and I don't want to plug the BL Touch in in-correctly.
Let's go Kris !!!!! great video keep them coming between yourself and Tripod both have saved my back end too many times to count thank you gentleman keep up the great work both are a true asset to this hobby
@@kerseyfabs Without people like yourself and too many others to name. A lot of us would be lost in this big wild world of 3d printing myself included. Thank you Kris
Hi Kris, thanks a lot for your videos on the SKR Turbo and the TFT 3.5. I was able to update my E5+ by following meticulously your tuto and it works great. Thanks a lot also for the firmware for the TMC2209 you kindly prepared. I seized the opportunity to relocate my power supply outside of the main box. Nice improvements for my new silent printer. Regarding Marlin, I will compare your config files to the default ones so that I should be able to get the last version of Marlin with the same config. Thanks a lot again !
Hi @@kerseyfabs I wanted to tune my PID and notice that the PID tuning for the Bed was not set in the prebuilt firmware you prepared in the video description. So I manage to compile mine based on your github source. I just modified the driver values from 2208 to 2209 for X, Y, Z and E in the configuration.h. However when I load this firmware, i got an error when heating the bed: heater failed heater_id. I set 60°C for bet temp, the bed temp reached 52°C and then error pops up. Do you modified other params in your source files compared to your 2209 prebuilt (generated on the 3rf of Dec 2020)? Maybe you set another custom bed resistance or something? (FYI, the issue disappears as soon as I reload your prebuilt firmware, but can't set the print bed PI). Thanks a lot !
EDIT: I solved my issue. it seems that the PID values from your code were too far to mine. So when the Temp enters the PID zone (10°C around target) it failed. What I did was to have the temp to reach 50°C, then launching the PID autotune command for 60°. Now I got the right PID values, I can reach the target temp without issue.
@@kerseyfabs The exoslide went well enough apart from a couple of issues/ The SKR 1.4 turbo and TFT 35 E3 V3.0 however im having issues, No Printer Attached and i cant seem to update the firmware. I put the firmware on the card, go to print and it just says loading...... nothing ever happens after that. Any assistance would be great, Thanks
Hope this helps some people. If you are in the UK/Europe. When connecting the BLTouch to the 1.4 turbo, its different wires you need to change. On the 3 pin connector the ground and power cables need to be swapped (brown and red). The white and black wires are already the correct way round. If you fail to swap these wires, the screen will flicker and go black, and the BLTouch won't work. Not sure why the wiring is different on creality printers here. But it is!
I still read your comment. All day I wonder why I can't bl-touch I check the cables, everything is fine, I'm looking for a mistake where I can .. I watch that I do it exactly according to the video, I check the connections according to the diagrams on the Internet, and finally after reading your comment I find out that Chinese turned a black and white wire for European printers .. I almost had a heart attack .. Fortunately, it finally works ... And I must highly commend Kersey for his dedication and time-consuming work to a community that is scattered around the world.
Kris, Great video on install and what needs to be changed. Thanks for showing how to read the pin out diagram,. The length of the video was just right, long enough to show what needs to be done, but not too long with needless stuff.
thanks Kris, and big fyi to other so you dont smoke your board/dcdc module, i've seen 3 different wire orientations on the bl touch, and 2 different wire color schemes (the other not here being brown, red, orange on the servo cable connector rather than blue, red, yellow). make sure really identify what wire is what coming from bl touch. I had to swap the servo cable blue and red wires in the connector as they were swapped for what this board accepts but my black and white were already set ok (and in a white connector not a red like i've seen on many videos including this one). Also dcdc module is not required for just a bl touch but if you use it you'll need to move the jumper next to it up to correct position. Lastly also note you need to remove that extra senseless homing pin for x,y, AND Z because if you configure your bl touch in the z endstop position you will crash without removing that sensorless homing pin on the driver (i bent mine out of the way in case i wanted to play with sensorless homing later). (unless you change the firmware around to use the actual probe pins next to the servo connector instead of z stop pins then it won't get confused.)
Followed your guide for Ender 5 plus skr 1.4 turbo upgrade with dual Z TMC2209. Thanks for a great guide! x,y,z moves just right. When I home x,y it works. When I home Z it just go down about 10cm and then stop. The bltouch never lit up. Even tested with a 2nd one, nothing. Checked cables carefully. It feels the cable gets hot. Output on octopi "Offline (Error: !! STOP Called becouse of BLTouch error - restart with M999) RESOLVED: Seems that I got a new version of BLtouch with my ender plus, the brown and red wire should switch plances in the servo connection!
Hey Kris, thank you so much for this tutorial. It helped me a lot with installation. Firmware works great also. The printer is so quiet now it was almost a bit scary to begin with:) Now I need to get some fans to take down that noise.
That's terrific! Just be careful when looking for quiet fans. Many people think any fan can do the job and quite often install underpowered solutions. This will result in clogs from heat creep and insufficient part cooling.
First off, This is a FANTASTIC guide and helped a ton!! Great vid! @18:12 - Where can I find those fan cables? My hotend fan goes to bare-wire (Ender 5Pro) but I need the white connector as I will be using a second extruder, so I can't use the Ext01 output. What are those connectors called so I can search for them, or can I get a link?
I'm not sure how frequent this issue is, but with the 5 plus machines that came with the MeanWell 500w from Creality, it's not pumping enough power to power the LCD screen AND the BLTouch correctly. The screen flickers and gets dimmer and dimmer until the LCD light is dark. Pull the BLTouch cable, and it's as bright and working as normal. Kris, you don't run into this because you have a much beefier power supply than the (better than original) stock power supply. From my research on the internet, the solution appears to be buying the BIGTREETECH Direct DCDC Mode V1.0 Power Module Supply from amazon or wherever people want to buy their machine stuff. I ordered one and can report back after I install it later this week..
This sounds really interesting and it's the first I've heard of it. First, I don't believe it's related to the power supply. After all, I have two Ender 5 Plus printers now and they both began with the cheap 500W supply, stock mainboard, and stock display. Neither of them have seen this issue at all. So, is it an issue specific wot the SKR boards? If so, which one(s)? Does it only happen when the bed is heating? More information is needed. Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs ah my bad. User error. I needed to swap the Red and Brown servo bltouch pins. The TFT works fine. (see my last comment about being a noob.. ) Ultimately, I have to replace my board because right out of the package, the board SD slot will not read any SD card - it does light up when a card is inserted, so I can't flash the firmware from what's on the board to your new z align version.. and I can't flash via octopi because it needs the SD on the board accessible.
Hey! this will be my next project and I will also try to install Ledge 2 in 1-S1 Bowden MK8 Titan V6 Extruder dual Hotend Switching 2 Colors Multi-Color 0.4 Nozzle it will be a great 3D printer when it is finished .. Thanks for many perfect videos Krister
Great videos, I just finished my upgrades. Just one lingering issue, when I go to auxiliary level (paper method) via Movement / Leveling, it only focuses on the front left quadrant. What should be right rear, is near center of the board for example. Normally I'm pretty good about troubleshooting this stuff, but I believe I'm suffering from a lack of correct terminology. Auto leveling works fine for what it's worth. Thanks again!
Chris/Justin .......So how did you get to auxiliary leveling I can't seem to find that in the Marlin menu. I am using TMC2208 steppers. Auto leveling sort of works but I have to try and correct it with Z level offset.The one think I liked about the stock board was the paper trick to level. My stock board decided to do a thermal runaway and I am getting a new board from Creality but its going to take something like 3 weeks so I thought this would be a good time to upgrade to the SKR V1.4 Turbo board. Everything else is stock so I would like to get this working good before I do anymore upgrades....Thanks. Ohh I forgot to mention I am running both z steppers with the one driver.
Hey! I have a problem :( When i turn on the printer it says no printer attached, and then it finds it, but sometimes when i home it moves to the Y endstop VERY erraticaly and then it won't home properlly. Also i haven't been able to print anything bc mid print it says "printe halted" and nothing else so i can't figure out what's going wrong Please help 🙃
If you're in touch-screen mode, the "no printer connected" to connected is perfectly normal. It takes a second for Marlin to come up and communicate with the display. I don't know about your erratic Y moves. It could be the motor, a communication problem somewhere or the belts and pulleys. As for your mid-print failures, I'd recommend switching over to Marlin mode for a test print and see if that gives you any more output on failure. If that doesn't work, you may have to be hooked up to the console during printing to see what's going on. Good luck!
@@javs2406 It means there's something wrong with one or more of your stepper drivers or the motors. There are some diagnostics you can run from the console but if this is the Turbo and they're onboard, you may have to replace the board.
Hello Kersey Thank you for the interesting instruction. I use the same motherboard in a delta printer with 0.9 deg motors. It works great and is completely silent. Unfortunately, Delta has one disadvantage - too little horizontal print area. That's why I'm very jealous when I see your bloody huge cube ... ;) I have one request for you - during the shots, set the camera focus on the manual and a specific point/object, because while waving your hands (e.g. 24:15) the focus changes and it is very disturbing. Regards and good luck.
It may be worth noting that in the recent marlin firmware, you no longer need to reverse the pins in the bltouch probe and put it in the z endstop header. Marlin fixed that in v2.something before your new firmware. The sensor can go into the probe header as-is.
In the z endstop port, you (we) are just swapping the wires so the correct one can go to the z endstop ground and the probe pin goes to pin 1_27. If you don't swap them and put them in the probe port on the board, the ground pin goes to ground and the probe pin goes to pin 0_10 as per the board diagram. In Marlin, in the pins_BTT_SKR_V1_4.h, it's already defined as: // // Z Probe (when not Z_MIN_PIN) // # ifndef Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN # define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN P0_10 # endif All that has to be done in configuration.h is to comment the '# define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN 'line and uncomment the '# define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING 'line. there's one more line below that: '# define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 // Pin 32 is the RAMPS default' , but you should not need to uncomment and change that one because that # ifndef Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN segment above in the pins_BTT_SKR_V1_4.h handles that. The only reason I ran into this was because I was monkeying around with Klipper and couldn't figure out why the servo stuff worked but the probe wouldn't stop the bed raising when i assigned sensor_pin: ^P0.10 in the [bl touch] section. Had to quick power off the machine to stop the nozzle from crashing. Then i opened up the machine, swapped the pins in the connector, and used the probe port and it worked fine.
@Kersey Fabrications thanks a lot for this great video, successfully upgraded my Ender 5 Plus to SKR 1.4 Turbo yesterday. Big kudos to you for offering all those different branches in your github, made it really easy to compile a dual z-stepper firmware for TMC2209 👍 While the BL-Touch 2-pin connector was already wired correctly as Manuel mentioned, I had to modify the 3-pin connector as GND and +5V were switched in my printer. Seeing all those minor changes in the pin layout I'm wondering how creality can offer a replacement silent board that works in every revision of the printer...
I'm glad to hear it! The BLtouch is the thing that caused this printer the most issues. It's a fantastic bed leveler but it's a bit too finicky and the wire colors seem not to be consistent.
I’m glad I saw this comment. I was following the video and noticed the same thing. On my Servo cable the Ground was brown, Power was red, and Signal was peach-orangish. BL-Touch was already wired correctly but it was a white connector not red.
I've found another BL touch wiring color, Black, white, and yellow as the three pin probe connector and the red and blue as the Z endstop. Pretty much the whole ribbon cable reversed, not sure if this is a cloned BL touch everything on it looks right and if I put it on my Ender 3 V2 with the stock main board it works as it should as well...
@@kerseyfabs Actually I have white ground, Black power (middle), and yellow signal towards the touch screen. With the blue wire going in the spot of the white wire in the Z endstop.
BTW: You do NOT need to cut anything, you can just bend the pin instead, so If you in the future want to use sensorless homing, you can then just ben the pin back.
If that works, great! I wasn't sure it would still have good connectivity on the other pins. If I need to replace it, I would just solder a new header on.
Nice work 👍 for once I was ahead of you with the skr 1.4 turbo mod last build you posted, looking forward to your firmware to look see what you did and compare to my configuration. I added BMG dual drive and a inductive probe sensor, works great. Thanks for the vid
Hey Kersey! Thank you so much for the tutorial! Just installed the SKR V1.4 Turbo in my Ender 5 plus with TMC2208 with dual Z ! I used your firmware with the dual Z and everything worked fine except that the Z is inverted! I am trying to compile a new version but errors keeps popping and i am in a loop trying to fix them and then more error pop up! Please HELP!!
Are you able to home the printer properly or does it just go down? Make sure you have the black/white wire plugged in properly. Test up and down using the Z controls, not just the homing.
The upgrade im waiting on most at this point is adding a second extruder to my ender 5 plus. I really want to be able to use the water soluble filament and I cant find any good examples of how to do this. I occasionally print 12x12 objects though so i think a second extruder wouldnt be an option for me, i think i would lose too much print space.
@@kerseyfabs Awesome, I literally cant wait. ive already run into a few prints where regular supports have been difficult if not impossible to remove cleanly. I also like doing text inlays and it would be really cool to do an inlay with a different color. Your channel is the first one I've actually clicked the bell notification button for lol. Also can I just say I love the 3d printing community, its so rare on youtube to get replies from the video creators and actually being able to have a back and forth with a couple of different 3d print oriented channels is kind of mind blowing.
I appreciate all of that! I have the parts, I just need to get working on it. I just started printing some of my custom designed parts today. I do my very best to respond to every comment, at the very minimum with a like or heart. Sometimes they get by me but not often. 😀
Kersey Fabrications just out of curiosity are you going to show a dual hot end set up or a dual extruder with a Y adapter? Hopefully you plan to explain both, you usually do a very good job of thoroughly explaining the different options and setup. Honestly mostly just hoping to steal your firmware so I don’t have to set it up myself, I think that is probably a bit beyond me and will probably keep me from doing the upgrade lol.
Thank you so much Kersey Fabrications for this very informative video !! I admit i did have problems at first BUT that was because of the BL Touch wires being wired differently. Thanks to Kersey Fabrications for the additional help in sorting this out !! ***UPDATE*** Everythinng is NOW working!! ( only one thing is now bothering me , When i send printer to HOME it dose`nt go into the center it goes to X:227 Y:195 ) Any Ideas how to make this go to the center? Thanks again for all your help with installing the SKR1.4 Turbo... Colin
Colin, thanks for the update on your build! I'm glad to hear it's working correctly. The reason your hotend does not home to center is because you have a BLTouch. Since the BLTouch is offset from the head, it needs to be in the center when it homes. The default Creality firmware does this incorrectly. I even released a version of the software that fixes it for the stock/silent board. You can change your probe's offset using M851: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html
Kersey Fabrications Thank you for all your time .. i have noticed another thing with mine.. it wouldn’t start printing because it came up with a run-out sensor problem. So what I had to do is turn off run-out sensor on the screen! Have you Any ideas why? The run-out sensor is still lit blue ! When i turned it off on the screen. Thanks again for all your time..
From what I can tell, the screen's run-out sensor support is different than the firmware's run-out sensor support. I haven't finished looking into this but it doesn't happen when using the text display.
Hi guys great video all the way through but just my BLtouch servo is orange, brown and red so I don't know which wire is which. In the video they are blue, red and yellow??
Thanks Kris for the great tutorial... Is there any diference on the Shared Z-stepper Source when using TMC2208 or TMC2209 other then define the type of drives that you use on lines 681...? or is there any sections that needs to be change when using TMC2209 ?
@@TripodsGarage - Hey Tripod, I have been out for a while and missed some of my replies. This is great that everyone follows each other. However, I am not a fan when someone deletes my comments asking to give credit to someone’s prior work!
Hi, What a wonderful in depth vidoe. Question with the firmware. I just purchased the 1.4 turbo, TFT35 V3.0 screen and i just installed a dual gear extruder and almost everything is stock. can i still use your BIN firmware to flash and install the new marlin? i dont have any knowledge on doing all that stuff. also, do you have a file for that screen cover that you use for the new screen?? thank you so much.
Can you give us a hint as to the setup your going with as far as multiple extruder? Will you be going with a two into one hot end or multiple hot ends?
I don't have this finalized but I will most likely be going with one nozzle, two inputs. This is much easier to configure and maintain than the alternative. There is more purging but I think there's less headache.
@@kerseyfabs I'm in the process of setting up one on my ender 5 plus myself. www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRJJVP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mESeFb2FWYNB1 I've run into a few minor issues. (Finding right hero parts to use, not using the same runout sensor (btt and stock) and having it trigger because the firmware settings are wrong. (I ordered 2 BTT but only set up one because I wasn't sure how I wanted to mount them.) setting up cura) with any luck I'll have my first multiple color print this weekend some time. 1st time doing this type of upgrade and winging it type issues. Thanks for all the hard work on the 5 plus videos I must say they have been a big help and the reason I went with the 1.4 turbo.
Arg. Followed all of this - good clear instructions, so thanks, Kris! However, when I was all done, my display shows nothing. The red LED on the display board is lit. The power supply is on, the SKR board's LED is lit, and I even noticed the BLTouch doing it's normal up down check at power up. Can anyone give me a clue how to troubleshoot this without a display to look at? I have the TFT35 v3.0 display, and haven't had a chance to update the firmware in either the SKR board or the TFT display since this was the first power-up. I'm really at a loss and would appreciate any guidance!
Question about your Dual Z-Steppers Source. By the looks of it, the drivers still use the Z and Z2, not the E1 for the 2nd Z (I presumed that you need to move it to the plug by the extra driver, but seems like I am wrong). Can you confirm this is where the Z motors are plugged into? Also what is the difference between using TMC2209 and TMC2209_STANDALONE?
Z1 and Z2, as marked on the board are not electrically separate, they are wired in parallel. So, if using dual Z steppers, it will be either of the Z connectors and E1. TMC2209 uses the stepper in UART mode. TMC2209_STANDALONE means that you are controlling the steppers physically with jumpers and potentiometers. You can buy them in either configuration or make modifications to change them. The standard ones from BTT are in UART mode.
If you want the extra stepper driver then yes, at this point. If not, then I'd go with the Mini E3 V2.0 since it's easier to install and has an onboard EEPROM.
Thank you for this entire tutorial, i have had nothing but issues with my e5p, and decided to go this route. only issue is i purchases the tft35-e3 v3.0.1. i don't know it it makes any difference, but when i put my micro sd card in the board it does not flash the firmware. is the screen being different slightly an issue?
I'm glad it helped. No, the display won't stop the board from flashing at all. See if this helps: How to install these files: 1. Download the file. 2. Rename the file to firmware.bin 3. Place that on an SD card. 4. Place that into the mainboard. 5. Turn on the printer. It should boot after a few seconds of flashing. To verify that it flashed, reinsert the SD card into a computer and the file should now be called FIRMWARE.CUR. If you're having problems flashing: - It may require an 8GB or smaller SD card. - Make sure it's formatted FAT32. - Under Windows in the file manager, click "View" in the menu bar. Make sure "File name extensions" is checked otherwise you may be renaming the file "firmware.bin.bin"
@@kerseyfabs i just updated with the 2209 firmware, and it does show .cur on the sd card now. can i upload a video of what happened when i uploaded it?
Extension card reader for the Micro SD, query . Do you need to power off and power on the printer each time you reinsert the SD card into the card reader extender, for the printer to be able to read a new file from the SD card? Or is my card reader just defective?
Excellent guide, installed everything without to many problems, only issue is bltouch not working as end stop and crashes into bed, I've got configured as per video and used the firmware (only minor changes to thermistor type and max temp.as I have a V6 hotend) and suggestions to what may be wrong
What is the advantage of using the zstop pins instead of the probe pin for the bltouch? Also if I use the probe pins do I have to make changes to the firmware u are using?
There's no advantage. I just do it for clarity. Since we use the BLtouch as our Z-endstop, it seems clearer to me. Yes, if you switch to the probe pins, the firmware would need changing.
Hi Kris, Thank you for the tutorials, you helped so many peoples to set up their printers(mine as well). Would you tell me can i turn off bl touch without tuning the firmware? I am building 50x50x50cm cartesian type and will use the firmware you provide here. Also i will use five equal motors 42-34 for the printer will the motor settings be fine for all of them? I am asking because Ender 5 plus have 42-48 on Y axis and 42-40 as Extruder motor. Best regards!
Hi love the vid, have followed and installed the 1.4 turbo board and tft on the ender 5 plus. FYI the latest enders seem to have the bl touch gnd and + reversed and the 2 pin connector that you had to reverse in the video you dont seem to have to do as the orientation seems correct now. Anyhow I have a question I am using your settings but in the latest marlin 2.0.7.2, so that I can use the Z offset wizard, not that its helping much :) why when auto levelling does the bltouch stay about 5cm away from the left hand edge and it does not seem to use the full extent of the board when leveling
Hopefully this serves as a reminder to pay attention to all of the information I cover about polarity and colors. I do try to cover it as best I can. 😅 The offset issue is because the BL touch will not go all the way to the edge on the right because of the mounting plate, cooling, etc. So, to keep the leveling grid symmetrical, we don't get closer on the left either.
Kinda weird, you swapped the polarity with the bltouch but when you plugged it in, the white is on the left which is reversed, did you flip the cable when you plugged it in?
Hi Kris, do you perhaps have a firmware.bin that you configured with the latest marlin version. I am new to the modding scene and followed your instructions and all is working 100%. I would however like to upgrade the firmware to the latest version but I have no clue how to edit the new firmware to run my printer.
Followed your guide and everything is working great except when go to level the corners. It's acting like the bed size is small like an ender 3. Any ideas on what I got wrong ? Forgot to mention I'm using the 2209 build you have linked in description.
Please go to my community page: ua-cam.com/users/KerseyFabricationscommunity There, several posts down possibly, you will find my latest firmware for the board and display. This should fix your problem. I'll update my links in the description later.
Hello Kersey, Thanks for the great video and explanation on Ender 5 plus. I recently got my Ender5 plus. I have skr1.4 turbo with TMC2209 stepper driver. Can you please confirm if this board work with the stock touchscreen for the Plus? I tried various firmware however the display is not turning on with skr1.4 turbo. Thanks.
I cannot confirm it because I haven't gotten that setup to work yet either. It's on my to-do list because I know others have gotten it working. Check this source tree out for more information: github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/CrealityDwin_2.0
Is there a benefit to using the z-stop end stop connector instead of the bltouch probe connector? I know there are firmware changes involved for both setups.
Nope. Functionally, they work the same. I use the Z-stop simply for consistency. Since I'm using it as the Z-stop and not just for leveling, it makes sense to me.
I like your setup so much better than the others. Just a (maybe stupid) question, why to keep the USB connection available?. With my SKR 1.3 (in an E3) after the 1rst setup I did all the flashing with the mini SD and actually never used the USB again.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks to you... I was sure my question was stupid (lol)... I´ve never connected a printer to a PC, maybe I am losing on something, but not eager to do it. Tomorrow is the re-release of the Creality 6 CoreXY, will take a look at that one and if it does not convince, will get the 5 plus and do this upgrade.
Hi Kersey, Thanks for the very useful info. I am doing everything like you in the video, but for a CR10s, and the only thing that happens is to have, after the firmware is loaded, the error err: MAXTEMP: bed. Doesn't matter if the thermistors are connected or not even with an empty board, the board stuck with that error. Any suggestions? Are 15 days I am looking around and no solution are given. Thank you
Hi I have a skr1.4 Turbo board with 2209 driver and set up as corexy for a laser and therefore use only the x and y axis. Since I have not been able to make sensorless homing work I have cut a few pieces and put endswitch on, but get the same error and just can not see what is wrong, I can home x and y who separately and it works but when i set it to home y and then xs¨run it as it should until x is done and then i will restart do you have any ideas for what might be wrong! have tried different versions of marlin and it gives the same result
The Ender 5 Plus is setup with Max X and Max Y in the back right corner. The end-stops are positioned so that they're max stops, but the SKR boards only have plugs for min stops. Did you do anything with the firmware or in the slicer to address this or did you just accept that the coordinate system would be backwards? I have an SKR Pro v1.2 and was able to get it to work by modifying pin assignments, but I don't like that solution and am wondering if there was some way that was easier to address this.
Thank you so much for the detailed information on how to set up this skr 1.4 turbo MB, everything was working until I tried to home the ender 5 plus, X axis was going in other direction, so I thought maybe I uploaded the wrong firmware, so I uploaded the dual Z firmware, but then the screen showed squares ■■■■■■■■■■■■■ I have been reading all the comments here and triple checked the wirings, tried to upload different firmwares but no luck. The file changes from .bin to .cur but the screen just shows these squares still. Maybe you have some clues why this could happen?
My x axis is also going in reverse on my Ender 5 Plus with skr 1.4 turbo.----- Edit: Scratch that, I didn't flash the firmware correctly. Renaming the provided firmware in the description to just firmware.bin worked for me. It is homing correctly now. Thanks!
Hi! Servo of the BL-touch also needed to be changed with my E5+ (brown:ground, red:power, orange:signal). Besides that, great tutorial! 1 question: Marlin modes works great, touch mode says no printer attached. Is this normal? A firmware setting or did i screw up the little black cable? Thx, keep up the good work!
Yeah, the BLtouch wiring changes from time to time. For the touch interface, make sure the black wire is connected correctly and your display's baudrate is set to 115200.
I tried to finish up the SKR install today. However, something REALLY strange is happening. I'm not screaming please fix it for me, just looking for some thoughts if you have an idea. When I first started it up the TFT is all white. OK, may I screwed it up somehow. Plug the TFT into another printer board. Nope working fine. Process of deduction (pull off all the connections, and plug them in one at a time). When the BLtouch servo connection is made it goes all white. All other connections seem fine, I can control the printer, move X,Y,Z etc.
NM...I looked closer and saw your update on the ordering of the wires (I have the red, brown, and orange setup). Once I had the wires in the right order all was good. Curiously my white/black for the end stop were already in the right order and I didn' need to fiddle with that...so far...I have yet to actually try a bed level. I have firmware issues for x,y (so far) it seems. I tried to compile my own since I have TMC 2209 drivers (Yes I dealt with the pin)
Hi KF, thanks for the great work on bringing this video to us. I have the printer up and running and homes correctly, the only problem i am having is when i start a G29 probe with the BLtouch it starts the probe at the front left instead of rear right. It also starts the priming of the hotend at the front left instead of rear right as it originally did before the upgrade. Do you know how to change in marlin to make the printer start probing rear right and priming rear right before print. Cheers
No problem! First, you didn't mention which printer you have. Assuming it's the Ender 5 Plus, it should have always started in the front left. G29 always starts closest to (0,0) and goes from there.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all!! Having problems leveling the bed. I already scratched my spring sheet beyond repair I think. My own fault for not being on the ready over the power switch. Oh well, Live and learn. One time the hotend was going to the center to probe z and I believe the fade failed and scratched it on middle. Just now, it auto homed correctly going thru the motions and when I began to level the bed, it lost the fade setting (I think that's what it is) and made another scratch from the middle towards the front left corner. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
First, the fade height is what the bed leveling uses to re-adjust the print once bed variance is taken care of. You'r talking about the Z-offset. I don't see how it's "losing" that setting. I'm curious if you're performing bed leveling correctly. 1) Set z-offset in the settings.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks, Oh, I know it is user error. LOL. I will do the above steps. Muchas gracias!!! AND just because of your interest to help others!!! I became a patron!!! Keep up the great work!!
@@kerseyfabs Ok, Ok, Ok !! Finally got around to messing around with bed leveling. I had to use the touch screen to be able to set the z-offset. In marlin mode, I just could not find where to set the z-offset!! All I kept coming across was "probe z offset" which after some thinking that was not it at all. So, in the touch mode there is a screen where I could set the "z offset". So I did the bed leveling in there and it is printing now!! IN MY OWN DEFENSE, I WAS LEFT UNSUPERVISED!! Thank you much!!
I used your Firmware and my extruder will not move at all. it moves when i try the y stepper cable i even tried moving the e stepper connection down one slot. any ideas? I have TMC2209 and I feel like ive tried everything except compiling my own firmware. Thanks for the fantastic video its what got me this far..... and im sooo close... but yet so far. someone please any suggestions. THNX
Let's see what we can do. First, did you verify that you are indeed running my firmware? Second, did you reset EEPROM defaults? EEPROM Init. Third, have you tried using the Marlin interface to make sure it's not a problem with the touch UI?
@@kerseyfabs hey I figure this out. The only question I have is I have a direct drive setup. Will this work correctly with it. I was getting some blobbly line extrusions.
great video, I followed along and just did mine. Only thing you left to be is desired is doing the Z offsets. If you need content, how us noobs how to configure the printer after this massive upgrade.
Looks like I’m having the same issue with this new board. Have the firmware loaded up onto the as card as firmware.bin but when I power the machine on I get the BTT logo and then it gives me 2 options. One for touch mode and one for marlin mode and I can even select any of them.. I’m confused at this point. Is there a way I can do this via usb from my computer to the mobo? I’m wondering if it’s something I have to force into it?
Thanks for all your help the last couple of days.. I have been trying to sort out another problem with the firmware. It comes up a message all the time fade hight or something? regarding bltouch. Do you have the source files so i can edit Bilinear To Linear for bl touch. I can tseem to use the config files with another version of marlin? Thank you
I've seen that fade height message on mine as well but it seems harmless. It seems to just be a setting notification. I don't know why you would change bilinear to linear. Either way though, here's my source from the description: Link to my GitHub page with full source: github.com/KerseyFabrications/Marlin/tree/2.0.x-BTT-SKR-V1.4-Turbo-Ender5Plus-bugfix Use the green "Code" button to download a zip file of this tree.
Also - can you confirm, will this show Octoprint prints as well? The factory setup doesn't know when Octoprint is printing something (which is very inconvenient), but I am currently using TinyMachines and it shows everything on the screen when sending from OctoPrint. Will this also continue to work this way with your firmware settings?
I have no idea who to talk to about this, but the noise on the y axis has been happening unless i enable endstop noise filter. i even installed a capacitor enabled endstop and it still isnt fixing the issue. i am not sure where to go from here to fix the issue
Hey Kris, I’m just wondering. Did you have to adjust the potentiometers on this board for the Extruder stepper motors to prevent clicking? Or was it already set well from factory? Planning on doing a long 2 day print and I don’t want my Extruder to click on me!
This board itself doesn't have potentiometers. If you install some older stepper drivers they may but if you install new TMC2208 of TMC2209 steppers, the reference voltage is software controlled. With my firmware settings, I've have no skipping but please make sure your temperature settings are good.
Just to let people know that you can't use the much loved Linear Advance feature in Marlin with the TMC2208's. You have to at the minimum use TMC2209's.
Hi. I have changed my E3 turbo for this board, and i want to use dual z-steppers. I have downloaded your fw for dual z and now i wonder which pin i should use for z1 and z2?
The only thing I could find with some quick searches was some older 1.1 code: github.com/Elenedeath/HE3D-Firmware It looks like you may have to start from scratch or ask around on Reddit or Facebook groups.
Hey Kris, Great Informative Vids......... as always. Just wondering if there are any firmware changes that need to be made if I use Probe Pins instead of Z Endstop Pins for BLTouch on SKR1.4Turbo/2209UART combo.
If you've missed any of the other parts, please check out the full playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PL4dGkbjUvBzrhR53vf2ZbYrxCr84uBwJ1.html
I'll include any clarifications and corrections in this comment.
If your BLTouch has different colors:
New Colors:
Brown & Black: Ground
Red: 5V
Orange: Control Signal
White: Z-Min
Here's an image: photos.app.goo.gl/4cxeHgk3E1bTJyfn9
Luke J mentioned that if you have the brown/red/orange wires, there is no need to flip the black/white wires.
Kris, Thanks! I finally got my Ender 5 Plus with the SKR 1.4 Turbo board running thanks to your downloadable Marlin 2.0.9.3 with the correct settings already in them! Between that and your video on how to level/tram your Marlin firmware-based printer, I can finally print again! YAY! I would so much like to learn how to use your source of that version to compile my own. However, I get all sorts of errors when I try to compile it myself. If you have step-by-step instructions somewhere on how to do that (I can't seem to find any), I'd sure love to get a link to such a page! Keep up the great work and I look forward to your future videos!
I actually implemented the Dual Z driver configuration on my E5+ and am pleased with the results. The Z auto-alignment (G34) aids with bed leveling, and I never really have to worry about my Z stepper motors getting out of sync (for long at least). If you don't think you're ever going to go the dual extruder route, I would recommend taking advantage of E1 as Z2.
The Insanity Automation fork of Marlin (CrealityDwin2.0_Bleeding) makes it easy to enable Dual Z, and also supports the stock touchscreen LCD ... even with the SKR 1.4 / 1.4 Turbo (and I've successfully compiled it for the E3 Mini 2.0 as well).
Thanks for the reply. I'm going to try and take a look at both of these scenarios if/when I do a follow-up video.
DodgeDeBoulet Does E3 mini support the stock dwin screen?
@@yufan I believe the TFT port on the SKR E3 Mini can be wired up to the DWIN screen (I wired up the SKR V1.4 Turbo "TFT" port to the DWIN screen of my Creality CR-10S Pro with no problems. It was just a matter of finding the pin-out for the DWIN screen and connecting the RX of the screen to the TX of the board and the TX to the RX of the board, plus power and ground connected per normal (5v to 5v, ground to ground). I found the names of the pins on the DWIN board but they were obscured by the connector. Then I found this picture and shared it in imgur for everyone else:
So, I don't have the E3 mini board, but the TFT port appears to be the exact same. In the Tiny Machines 3d Marlin 2.0 Firmware, I have to enable the Force10SProDisplay flag. I use build flags at compile time in the PlatformIO extension of MS Visual Code.... so that flag I add is -DForce10SProDisplay along with all the other -D flag that I enable to configure the printer at compile time.
Here are some links that may help you:
imgur.com/gallery/rcrRf0u
imgur.com/kanEegg
Kris ... Thank you, brother! This was absolutely fantastic. You have no idea how much this helped.
Love to hear it! Thanks!
So quick question: if you have two hotends installed on a printer, where would the second part cooling fan be installed?
@@DaShawnJames-s2n There's not a great solution for that on this board. Since there's only one speed controlled fan, you wouldn't be able to control the speed on a second one. You'd have to hook two fans to the same header, which is not a good idea for multiple reasons.
Bought the first printer this week. Did not intend to upgrade it at first.
Just ordered a skr 1.4 turbo after watching this video
Good work!
Thank you and good luck!
Just did the same actually
I've been waiting impatiently for this, had my board ready to install, so thanks Kris for your great tutorial.
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Please let me know how your install goes!
You have convinced me! I am getting an Ender 5 Plus at the end of the month. I am not afraid of the software but i am pretty dumb with hardware, but with these tutorials i am sure i will be fine. Quality content, continue this and i am sure you will be able to earn a living from UA-cam one day! :)
Thanks for watching and the support! Let me know how that printer works out for you when you get it.The community support for my channel has been terrific!
Hey Kris, I'm *finally* on the verge of dusting off my E5Plus and doing this mod, so I just wanted to say thanks again for all the time you put into this! This is a stellar tutorial (as usual), and I can't wait to get this thing up and running again. It was kinda busted (screen died), and is my only printer, so I bought an Ender 3 V2 just so I could have a working printer to print parts for the big dog. I'm sure I will be referring to this video (and the wiring ones) MULTIPLE times in the very near future. Keep up the great work sir, you are THE man for the Ender 5 Plus!!!
Agree! I have an Ender 5 Plus and the SKR 1.4 Turbo board. Had issues and restored eeprom when I should not have and had to use his repository to get the 2.09 release installed again! Thanks so much!
just entered the 3d printing world. your videos are one of the best, they are so clear its insane. thank you so much
Thank you for stopping by and leaving a comment! I hope you have a great time with your new hobby.
Nice Work Kersey! Firmware worked first try, wiring pinout was bang on. Had an extra 1.4 Turbo board kicking around and swapped out the Mini E3 Turbo board that was cooking my steppers. A+ on Video, A+ on wiring and Firmware.
Thank you for the feedback Tom! Keep an eye on those stepper motors. Some people have had overheating issues with this board.
For those who may be wondering and have a SKR 2 they are using this guide for in the new version of the board there is a set of pins that enables and disables the sensor less homing and you no longer need to cut your DIAG pin as shown ua-cam.com/video/vS8RM2RPe-s/v-deo.html just simply do not cap it with one of the short caps and you will be fine!
Hi, thank you!
Have you done this with the SKR 2? Will the Firmware for the 1.4 work with the 2?
@@mrsnak6119 Yes I have the two. Sorry for the delay on this I dont know if you are still working on it but I can help if you send me a message.
Fine and interesting work!
Just yesterday, the board, screen and drivers arrived (without the USB and SD extensions logically) They look great with BTT, the Creality screen is very large for few options)
Fine and interesting work!
Just yesterday, the board, screen and drivers arrived (without the USB and SD extensions logically) They look great with BTT (the Creality screen is very large for few options)
And with Firmware! I'm quite a novice even to understand everything Marlin. Thanks!
Good luck with the install! I hope this is an easy process for you.
@@kerseyfabs OH! YES, for the moment, I will try a while (now I am with many things at once) the silent Creality, I will learn the Vref that work best for me, to be able to make a good comparison, (the display adapter I already printed it, it is very Nice, on the other hand smoke comes out of my head trying to configure Marlin for Ender 3 with SKR 1.3 (indifferent for one or the other TMCs 2208/9) Thank you very much for your help, starting from 0 is difficult, I have learned a lot, with a lot of frustration: -)) I see that I need more and more to learn, I imagine that like many people who did not know what an Arduino is :-)).
(32bits VSCode, what is that? hahaha
Let me ask you a question, is the use of the USB and SD display sufficient?
later, for communication with the distant PC, with Ponterface .... etc. send G-codes , install the on-board wi-fi module, with a discreet antenna.
Very TY!
We all started from scratch at some point, some are just further down the path.
I think you're asking can you just use the USB and SD on the display. That should be sufficient for printing but you won't be able to flash the firmware without access to the board's SD slot. As you mentioned, you also won't be able to communicate with the printer directly without the onboard USB.
@@kerseyfabs
YES!
Once the .bin firmware is installed on the microSD .CUR
(sorry for the translations).
Exactly!
I don't have a powerful enough notebook.
By adding the WIFI module to the SKR, just like USB, you can communicate with the PC, with the software, Ponterface
or Repetier Host Repetier Server, without the need for a Rasperi Pi?
Thank you very much for answering!
You are able to use the SDCard, micro, on the mainboard for Flashing, G-code files printing
in Configuration_adv.h
#define SDCARD_CONNECTION ONBOARD
Tip to address the little bit of wiggle on the terminal end for anyone using Kris's style of bracket; since the mounting holes for the board go all the way through the bracket I simply used a longer screw to attach he board on that end (I used 16mm, 18mm would match the front height more exactly but 16mm and 20mm were what I had on hand). These create sort of stand-off or feet for the bracket at those two points and make it rock solid!
Thanks for the videos Kris, it's made all the upgrades to my new Ender 5 Plus a breeze (and factored heavily in my choice of buying the machine over others in the size category)!
What a terrific idea! Thanks Cylvre! I'm glad you're enjoying your printer.
watched ton of videos for this board, this is the best video ever with all the needed explaination for a noob like me
Thank you so much Samer!
Thanks Kris. Great video. I have an Ender 3 pro now, but have an Ender 5+ coming for my birthday in early August (60 yrs old) so your series of video regarding this printer are coming at the best time! Your thoroughness and focus on safety are wonderful.
BTW, I will be buying my SKR V1.4 Turbo with your affiliate link and if you put an affiliate link up for the Ender 5+ on Amazon, I'll use that as well.
Happy birthday! Thank you for the kind words. Here's a link to an Amazon Ender 5 Plus (in stock): amzn.to/3eGlBaV
I have not ordered from them myself but the company has a good reputation.
You're a youngster! I just had my 69th. Another suggestion, besides Kris, there are a lot of good channels and check out Thingiverse for Ender 5 and 5 Plus things
Oh boy, I am a VERY happy man now! - Got my printer home AND also mainboard! - So right now I am printing the mount for SKR v1.4 Turbo :)
And then .... Going to install, and ofcourse using YOUR great firmware also! - With Dual Z
THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR GREAT HELP!
Have fun! I hope everything goes together well!
Nice work Kris! Can't wait to see those test prints!! ;)
Thanks man! Coming soon! I'll have a comparison of the silent board, SKR mini E3 V2.0, and the SKR V1.4 Turbo all in the next video.
Great video! Thank you for showing the wiring correctly none of the other videos out there did a great job with that. The new Ender 5 Plus printers that come out of the factory now have the meanwell 500W power supply as standard and have changed the BLTouch wiring color to the standard orange/brown/red from Antlabs. I just got my second Ender 5 Plus to join my other printers in the print farm and will likely only add these going forward. These machines with some upgrades are fantastic. I exclusively use the SKR 1.4 Turbos on all of my printers and highly recommend it. I'll be adding the exoslide to this one as a test, since these run 24/7 I'm sick of the delrin wheels.
Thanks for the comment and for the info on the latest printers. I'm glad these are working so well for you! I think you'll be happy with the ExoSlide.
@@kerseyfabs Thank you for exposing that to the community. I was going to go linear rail but I'm happy to support small 3D printing businesses.
Hi Intrepid,(Or Kris), I have a E5Plus as well with the orange/brown/red wires for the BL Touch. I'm installing my SKR 1.4T right now. Could you tell me the proper orientation for the servo plug with these colors. I'm not sure what the colors signify and I don't want to plug the BL Touch in in-correctly.
Let's go Kris !!!!! great video keep them coming
between yourself and Tripod both have saved my back end too many times to count
thank you gentleman keep up the great work both are a true asset to this hobby
Thanks! I really appreciate your comments. Tripod (John) does a great job of presenting his work.
@@kerseyfabs Without people like yourself and too many others to name. A lot of us would be lost in this big wild world of 3d printing myself included.
Thank you Kris
Yes, follow Tripod, Jim (Edge of tech), and Chris's Basement, all great guys
Hi Kris, thanks a lot for your videos on the SKR Turbo and the TFT 3.5. I was able to update my E5+ by following meticulously your tuto and it works great. Thanks a lot also for the firmware for the TMC2209 you kindly prepared. I seized the opportunity to relocate my power supply outside of the main box. Nice improvements for my new silent printer. Regarding Marlin, I will compare your config files to the default ones so that I should be able to get the last version of Marlin with the same config. Thanks a lot again !
I appreciate the feedback! Thanks for watching and leaving a comment!
Hi @@kerseyfabs I wanted to tune my PID and notice that the PID tuning for the Bed was not set in the prebuilt firmware you prepared in the video description. So I manage to compile mine based on your github source. I just modified the driver values from 2208 to 2209 for X, Y, Z and E in the configuration.h. However when I load this firmware, i got an error when heating the bed: heater failed heater_id. I set 60°C for bet temp, the bed temp reached 52°C and then error pops up. Do you modified other params in your source files compared to your 2209 prebuilt (generated on the 3rf of Dec 2020)? Maybe you set another custom bed resistance or something? (FYI, the issue disappears as soon as I reload your prebuilt firmware, but can't set the print bed PI). Thanks a lot !
EDIT: I solved my issue. it seems that the PID values from your code were too far to mine. So when the Temp enters the PID zone (10°C around target) it failed. What I did was to have the temp to reach 50°C, then launching the PID autotune command for 60°. Now I got the right PID values, I can reach the target temp without issue.
@@Mattbe72 Awesome! Glad you were able to work through it.
Will be doing this, this weekend. The video came just in time. Also ordered the exoslide so that will be the next mod.
I hope they go well for you! Happy mods!
@@kerseyfabs The exoslide went well enough apart from a couple of issues/ The SKR 1.4 turbo and TFT 35 E3 V3.0 however im having issues, No Printer Attached and i cant seem to update the firmware. I put the firmware on the card, go to print and it just says loading...... nothing ever happens after that. Any assistance would be great, Thanks
Great Video,
I'm noob, i still learning how to use 3D printing. I learned a lot in this channel i'm a fan already, Thanks and don't stop!
We were all noobs once, so keep printing and keep learning! Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
You bet! Thank you!
Hope this helps some people. If you are in the UK/Europe. When connecting the BLTouch to the 1.4 turbo, its different wires you need to change. On the 3 pin connector the ground and power cables need to be swapped (brown and red). The white and black wires are already the correct way round.
If you fail to swap these wires, the screen will flicker and go black, and the BLTouch won't work.
Not sure why the wiring is different on creality printers here. But it is!
I still read your comment. All day I wonder why I can't bl-touch I check the cables, everything is fine, I'm looking for a mistake where I can .. I watch that I do it exactly according to the video, I check the connections according to the diagrams on the Internet, and finally after reading your comment I find out that Chinese turned a black and white wire for European printers .. I almost had a heart attack ..
Fortunately, it finally works ...
And I must highly commend Kersey for his dedication and time-consuming work to a community that is scattered around the world.
@@1vyrobca Happy the comment helped! When I encountered the issue it frustrated the heck out of me.
Happy printing!
Excellent work man! Im waiting for my ender 5 plus! already got a SKR 1.4 TURBO here! probably going to do this upgrade!
Thanks! Good luck with your printer and your upgrades.
Kris, Great video on install and what needs to be changed. Thanks for showing how to read the pin out diagram,. The length of the video was just right, long enough to show what needs to be done, but not too long with needless stuff.
Thank you for the terrific feedback David!
thanks Kris, and big fyi to other so you dont smoke your board/dcdc module, i've seen 3 different wire orientations on the bl touch, and 2 different wire color schemes (the other not here being brown, red, orange on the servo cable connector rather than blue, red, yellow). make sure really identify what wire is what coming from bl touch. I had to swap the servo cable blue and red wires in the connector as they were swapped for what this board accepts but my black and white were already set ok (and in a white connector not a red like i've seen on many videos including this one). Also dcdc module is not required for just a bl touch but if you use it you'll need to move the jumper next to it up to correct position.
Lastly also note you need to remove that extra senseless homing pin for x,y, AND Z because if you configure your bl touch in the z endstop position you will crash without removing that sensorless homing pin on the driver (i bent mine out of the way in case i wanted to play with sensorless homing later). (unless you change the firmware around to use the actual probe pins next to the servo connector instead of z stop pins then it won't get confused.)
I had the brown, red, yellow. The black and white were correct, but brown and red needed swapped.
You deserve many more subscribers , excellent content.
Thanks so much!
This video gave me the confidence i needed to try installing a BTR2 on my E5+. Still getting an ALL HIGH warning on the lcd, but I'm working on it! =)
Followed your guide for Ender 5 plus skr 1.4 turbo upgrade with dual Z TMC2209. Thanks for a great guide! x,y,z moves just right. When I home x,y it works. When I home Z it just go down about 10cm and then stop. The bltouch never lit up. Even tested with a 2nd one, nothing. Checked cables carefully. It feels the cable gets hot. Output on octopi "Offline (Error: !! STOP Called becouse of BLTouch error - restart with M999) RESOLVED: Seems that I got a new version of BLtouch with my ender plus, the brown and red wire should switch plances in the servo connection!
Awesome! I'm glad you found the fix!
Dude,,,,,,,,,,,had to watch the video a number of times, but I got it. Ender 5 plus up and running with 32 bit system now. Thanks,,,,,,,,Mark H
That's awesome! Congrats!
Hey Kris, thank you so much for this tutorial. It helped me a lot with installation. Firmware works great also. The printer is so quiet now it was almost a bit scary to begin with:)
Now I need to get some fans to take down that noise.
That's terrific! Just be careful when looking for quiet fans. Many people think any fan can do the job and quite often install underpowered solutions. This will result in clogs from heat creep and insufficient part cooling.
FYI, Just got a new ender 5 plus and it has a Meanwell 500 in it for power supply from the factory.
First off, This is a FANTASTIC guide and helped a ton!! Great vid!
@18:12 - Where can I find those fan cables? My hotend fan goes to bare-wire (Ender 5Pro) but I need the white connector as I will be using a second extruder, so I can't use the Ext01 output. What are those connectors called so I can search for them, or can I get a link?
I'm not sure how frequent this issue is, but with the 5 plus machines that came with the MeanWell 500w from Creality, it's not pumping enough power to power the LCD screen AND the BLTouch correctly. The screen flickers and gets dimmer and dimmer until the LCD light is dark. Pull the BLTouch cable, and it's as bright and working as normal. Kris, you don't run into this because you have a much beefier power supply than the (better than original) stock power supply. From my research on the internet, the solution appears to be buying the BIGTREETECH Direct DCDC Mode V1.0 Power Module Supply from amazon or wherever people want to buy their machine stuff. I ordered one and can report back after I install it later this week..
This sounds really interesting and it's the first I've heard of it. First, I don't believe it's related to the power supply. After all, I have two Ender 5 Plus printers now and they both began with the cheap 500W supply, stock mainboard, and stock display. Neither of them have seen this issue at all. So, is it an issue specific wot the SKR boards? If so, which one(s)? Does it only happen when the bed is heating? More information is needed. Thanks!
@@kerseyfabs ah my bad. User error. I needed to swap the Red and Brown servo bltouch pins. The TFT works fine. (see my last comment about being a noob.. ) Ultimately, I have to replace my board because right out of the package, the board SD slot will not read any SD card - it does light up when a card is inserted, so I can't flash the firmware from what's on the board to your new z align version.. and I can't flash via octopi because it needs the SD on the board accessible.
Hey!
this will be my next project and I will also try to install Ledge 2 in 1-S1 Bowden MK8 Titan V6 Extruder dual Hotend Switching 2 Colors Multi-Color 0.4 Nozzle it will be a great 3D printer when it is finished .. Thanks for many perfect videos
Krister
Great videos, I just finished my upgrades. Just one lingering issue, when I go to auxiliary level (paper method) via Movement / Leveling, it only focuses on the front left quadrant. What should be right rear, is near center of the board for example.
Normally I'm pretty good about troubleshooting this stuff, but I believe I'm suffering from a lack of correct terminology. Auto leveling works fine for what it's worth.
Thanks again!
Chris/Justin .......So how did you get to auxiliary leveling I can't seem to find that in the Marlin menu. I am using TMC2208 steppers. Auto leveling sort of works but I have to try and correct it with Z level offset.The one think I liked about the stock board was the paper trick to level. My stock board decided to do a thermal runaway and I am getting a new board from Creality but its going to take something like 3 weeks so I thought this would be a good time to upgrade to the SKR V1.4 Turbo board. Everything else is stock so I would like to get this working good before I do anymore upgrades....Thanks. Ohh I forgot to mention I am running both z steppers with the one driver.
I guess i should have gone with the 1.4 turbo. Oh well. E3 mini 2.0 will be here soon. Thanks for the great videos.
Don't assume that the E3 mini is the inferior choice yet. Stay tuned! Thanks!
Hey! I have a problem :(
When i turn on the printer it says no printer attached, and then it finds it, but sometimes when i home it moves to the Y endstop VERY erraticaly and then it won't home properlly.
Also i haven't been able to print anything bc mid print it says "printe halted" and nothing else so i can't figure out what's going wrong
Please help 🙃
If you're in touch-screen mode, the "no printer connected" to connected is perfectly normal. It takes a second for Marlin to come up and communicate with the display. I don't know about your erratic Y moves. It could be the motor, a communication problem somewhere or the belts and pulleys. As for your mid-print failures, I'd recommend switching over to Marlin mode for a test print and see if that gives you any more output on failure. If that doesn't work, you may have to be hooked up to the console during printing to see what's going on. Good luck!
@@kerseyfabs In marlin mode it says TMC ERROR, what does that mean?
@@javs2406 It means there's something wrong with one or more of your stepper drivers or the motors. There are some diagnostics you can run from the console but if this is the Turbo and they're onboard, you may have to replace the board.
Hello Kersey
Thank you for the interesting instruction. I use the same motherboard in a delta printer with 0.9 deg motors. It works great and is completely silent.
Unfortunately, Delta has one disadvantage - too little horizontal print area. That's why I'm very jealous when I see your bloody huge cube ... ;)
I have one request for you - during the shots, set the camera focus on the manual and a specific point/object, because while waving your hands (e.g. 24:15) the focus changes and it is very disturbing.
Regards and good luck.
It may be worth noting that in the recent marlin firmware, you no longer need to reverse the pins in the bltouch probe and put it in the z endstop header. Marlin fixed that in v2.something before your new firmware. The sensor can go into the probe header as-is.
Given the fact that the pins are actually hard-wired to certain power or ground lines, I don't see how that's possible. Do you have a link?
In the z endstop port, you (we) are just swapping the wires so the correct one can go to the z endstop ground and the probe pin goes to pin 1_27. If you don't swap them and put them in the probe port on the board, the ground pin goes to ground and the probe pin goes to pin 0_10 as per the board diagram.
In Marlin, in the pins_BTT_SKR_V1_4.h, it's already defined as:
//
// Z Probe (when not Z_MIN_PIN)
//
# ifndef Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN
# define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN P0_10
# endif
All that has to be done in configuration.h is to comment the '# define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN 'line
and uncomment the '# define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING 'line.
there's one more line below that: '# define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN 32 // Pin 32 is the RAMPS default' , but you should not need to uncomment and change that one because that # ifndef Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN segment above in the pins_BTT_SKR_V1_4.h handles that.
The only reason I ran into this was because I was monkeying around with Klipper and couldn't figure out why the servo stuff worked but the probe wouldn't stop the bed raising when i assigned sensor_pin: ^P0.10 in the [bl touch] section. Had to quick power off the machine to stop the nozzle from crashing. Then i opened up the machine, swapped the pins in the connector, and used the probe port and it worked fine.
Can we get an update for the new marlin 2.06 for the pinout we should be using or if a different firmware will be needed?
@Kersey Fabrications thanks a lot for this great video, successfully upgraded my Ender 5 Plus to SKR 1.4 Turbo yesterday. Big kudos to you for offering all those different branches in your github, made it really easy to compile a dual z-stepper firmware for TMC2209 👍
While the BL-Touch 2-pin connector was already wired correctly as Manuel mentioned, I had to modify the 3-pin connector as GND and +5V were switched in my printer.
Seeing all those minor changes in the pin layout I'm wondering how creality can offer a replacement silent board that works in every revision of the printer...
I'm glad to hear it! The BLtouch is the thing that caused this printer the most issues. It's a fantastic bed leveler but it's a bit too finicky and the wire colors seem not to be consistent.
I’m glad I saw this comment. I was following the video and noticed the same thing. On my Servo cable the Ground was brown, Power was red, and Signal was peach-orangish.
BL-Touch was already wired correctly but it was a white connector not red.
I've found another BL touch wiring color, Black, white, and yellow as the three pin probe connector and the red and blue as the Z endstop. Pretty much the whole ribbon cable reversed, not sure if this is a cloned BL touch everything on it looks right and if I put it on my Ender 3 V2 with the stock main board it works as it should as well...
Thanks for the new info! Black and white hopefully will stay ground and power respectively and yellow will be signal.
@@kerseyfabs Actually I have white ground, Black power (middle), and yellow signal towards the touch screen. With the blue wire going in the spot of the white wire in the Z endstop.
Great video
Looking forward to see the next video
Thanks for sharing :-)
I appreciate it!
Awesome tutorial on this upgrade. All went great for me, thanks Chris. Would you mind posting your full slicer start and end gcode please.
Will do! It's pretty stock Cura:
Start:
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate
G28 ;Home
M420 S1 Z2 ;Enable ABL using saved Mesh and Fade Height
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X5.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X5.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X5.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X5.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
End:
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-2 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G1 X0 Y0 ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
BTW: You do NOT need to cut anything, you can just bend the pin instead, so If you in the future want to use sensorless homing, you can then just ben the pin back.
If that works, great! I wasn't sure it would still have good connectivity on the other pins. If I need to replace it, I would just solder a new header on.
Nice work 👍 for once I was ahead of you with the skr 1.4 turbo mod last build you posted, looking forward to your firmware to look see what you did and compare to my configuration. I added BMG dual drive and a inductive probe sensor, works great. Thanks for the vid
I'm glad you got it up and running! That BMG extruder is nice!
Why would you add an inductive sensor, I does come with BLT doesn't it?
Hey Kersey! Thank you so much for the tutorial! Just installed the SKR V1.4 Turbo in my Ender 5 plus with TMC2208 with dual Z ! I used your firmware with the dual Z and everything worked fine except that the Z is inverted! I am trying to compile a new version but errors keeps popping and i am in a loop trying to fix them and then more error pop up! Please HELP!!
Are you able to home the printer properly or does it just go down? Make sure you have the black/white wire plugged in properly. Test up and down using the Z controls, not just the homing.
The upgrade im waiting on most at this point is adding a second extruder to my ender 5 plus. I really want to be able to use the water soluble filament and I cant find any good examples of how to do this. I occasionally print 12x12 objects though so i think a second extruder wouldnt be an option for me, i think i would lose too much print space.
I'm working on this now! Coming soon!
@@kerseyfabs Awesome, I literally cant wait. ive already run into a few prints where regular supports have been difficult if not impossible to remove cleanly. I also like doing text inlays and it would be really cool to do an inlay with a different color. Your channel is the first one I've actually clicked the bell notification button for lol. Also can I just say I love the 3d printing community, its so rare on youtube to get replies from the video creators and actually being able to have a back and forth with a couple of different 3d print oriented channels is kind of mind blowing.
I appreciate all of that! I have the parts, I just need to get working on it. I just started printing some of my custom designed parts today. I do my very best to respond to every comment, at the very minimum with a like or heart. Sometimes they get by me but not often. 😀
Kersey Fabrications just out of curiosity are you going to show a dual hot end set up or a dual extruder with a Y adapter? Hopefully you plan to explain both, you usually do a very good job of thoroughly explaining the different options and setup. Honestly mostly just hoping to steal your firmware so I don’t have to set it up myself, I think that is probably a bit beyond me and will probably keep me from doing the upgrade lol.
I will be going with the single nozzle with two extruders. I'll cover why in the video.
Thank you so much Kersey Fabrications for this very informative video !! I admit i did have problems at first BUT that was because of the BL Touch wires being wired differently. Thanks to Kersey Fabrications for the additional help in sorting this out !! ***UPDATE*** Everythinng is NOW working!! ( only one thing is now bothering me , When i send printer to HOME it dose`nt go into the center it goes to X:227 Y:195 ) Any Ideas how to make this go to the center? Thanks again for all your help with installing the SKR1.4 Turbo... Colin
Colin, thanks for the update on your build! I'm glad to hear it's working correctly. The reason your hotend does not home to center is because you have a BLTouch. Since the BLTouch is offset from the head, it needs to be in the center when it homes. The default Creality firmware does this incorrectly. I even released a version of the software that fixes it for the stock/silent board. You can change your probe's offset using M851: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M851.html
Kersey Fabrications Thank you for all your time .. i have noticed another thing with mine.. it wouldn’t start printing because it came up with a run-out sensor problem. So what I had to do is turn off run-out sensor on the screen! Have you Any ideas why? The run-out sensor is still lit blue ! When i turned it off on the screen. Thanks again for all your time..
From what I can tell, the screen's run-out sensor support is different than the firmware's run-out sensor support. I haven't finished looking into this but it doesn't happen when using the text display.
Hi guys great video all the way through but just my BLtouch servo is orange, brown and red so I don't know which wire is which. In the video they are blue, red and yellow??
Thanks Kris for the great tutorial...
Is there any diference on the Shared Z-stepper Source when using TMC2208 or TMC2209 other then define the type of drives that you use on lines 681...?
or is there any sections that needs to be change when using TMC2209 ?
No problem. That's all you'll need to change.
Great video - Thanks for the shout-out!
No problem. 👍 I forgot to add you a card there also. Done!
Kersey Fabrications - Thanks 👍
Hey Tripod! I just watched video and was scrolling through the comments. Didn’t know you watched Kris’s videos as well.
@@Firstleaker Hey there! Yes, I watch other channels. It is always nice to support others.
@@TripodsGarage - Hey Tripod, I have been out for a while and missed some of my replies. This is great that everyone follows each other. However, I am not a fan when someone deletes my comments asking to give credit to someone’s prior work!
:) that music (29:57). Another great vid.
Thanks! I've always liked the ending music better than the opening!
Hi, What a wonderful in depth vidoe. Question with the firmware. I just purchased the 1.4 turbo, TFT35 V3.0 screen and i just installed a dual gear extruder and almost everything is stock. can i still use your BIN firmware to flash and install the new marlin? i dont have any knowledge on doing all that stuff. also, do you have a file for that screen cover that you use for the new screen?? thank you so much.
Hey, can you do a similar video for the Ender 5 plus, but with the BTT SKR 3 EZ?
I'd love to! I hope I can find some time to put it together.
Can you give us a hint as to the setup your going with as far as multiple extruder?
Will you be going with a two into one hot end or multiple hot ends?
I don't have this finalized but I will most likely be going with one nozzle, two inputs. This is much easier to configure and maintain than the alternative. There is more purging but I think there's less headache.
@@kerseyfabs I'm in the process of setting up one on my ender 5 plus myself.
www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRJJVP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mESeFb2FWYNB1
I've run into a few minor issues. (Finding right hero parts to use, not using the same runout sensor (btt and stock) and having it trigger because the firmware settings are wrong. (I ordered 2 BTT but only set up one because I wasn't sure how I wanted to mount them.) setting up cura) with any luck I'll have my first multiple color print this weekend some time. 1st time doing this type of upgrade and winging it type issues.
Thanks for all the hard work on the 5 plus videos I must say they have been a big help and the reason I went with the 1.4 turbo.
Arg. Followed all of this - good clear instructions, so thanks, Kris! However, when I was all done, my display shows nothing. The red LED on the display board is lit. The power supply is on, the SKR board's LED is lit, and I even noticed the BLTouch doing it's normal up down check at power up. Can anyone give me a clue how to troubleshoot this without a display to look at? I have the TFT35 v3.0 display, and haven't had a chance to update the firmware in either the SKR board or the TFT display since this was the first power-up. I'm really at a loss and would appreciate any guidance!
Question about your Dual Z-Steppers Source. By the looks of it, the drivers still use the Z and Z2, not the E1 for the 2nd Z (I presumed that you need to move it to the plug by the extra driver, but seems like I am wrong). Can you confirm this is where the Z motors are plugged into? Also what is the difference between using TMC2209 and TMC2209_STANDALONE?
Z1 and Z2, as marked on the board are not electrically separate, they are wired in parallel. So, if using dual Z steppers, it will be either of the Z connectors and E1.
TMC2209 uses the stepper in UART mode. TMC2209_STANDALONE means that you are controlling the steppers physically with jumpers and potentiometers. You can buy them in either configuration or make modifications to change them. The standard ones from BTT are in UART mode.
@@kerseyfabs Has anyone told you how awesome you are today? :)
@@tonnictv That's awesome of you to say!
Kersey fabrications, would this be you recommended board for the 5 plus? After reading you’re pinned post on the e3 turbo issues? Thanks.
If you want the extra stepper driver then yes, at this point. If not, then I'd go with the Mini E3 V2.0 since it's easier to install and has an onboard EEPROM.
Thank you for this entire tutorial, i have had nothing but issues with my e5p, and decided to go this route. only issue is i purchases the tft35-e3 v3.0.1. i don't know it it makes any difference, but when i put my micro sd card in the board it does not flash the firmware. is the screen being different slightly an issue?
I'm glad it helped. No, the display won't stop the board from flashing at all. See if this helps:
How to install these files:
1. Download the file.
2. Rename the file to firmware.bin
3. Place that on an SD card.
4. Place that into the mainboard.
5. Turn on the printer.
It should boot after a few seconds of flashing. To verify that it flashed, reinsert the SD card into a computer and the file should now be called FIRMWARE.CUR.
If you're having problems flashing:
- It may require an 8GB or smaller SD card.
- Make sure it's formatted FAT32.
- Under Windows in the file manager, click "View" in the menu bar. Make sure "File name extensions" is checked otherwise you may be renaming the file "firmware.bin.bin"
@@kerseyfabs i just updated with the 2209 firmware, and it does show .cur on the sd card now. can i upload a video of what happened when i uploaded it?
@@abbadon010 Feel free to message me directly on any other social media platform to send me a video or photos.
@@kerseyfabs ok, i will use Instagram
Extension card reader for the Micro SD, query .
Do you need to power off and power on the printer each time you reinsert the SD card into the card reader extender, for the printer to be able to read a new file from the SD card?
Or is my card reader just defective?
Excellent guide, installed everything without to many problems, only issue is bltouch not working as end stop and crashes into bed, I've got configured as per video and used the firmware (only minor changes to thermistor type and max temp.as I have a V6 hotend) and suggestions to what may be wrong
If the BLTouch is retracting correctly on start-up, it's usually the white/black wire that's not correct. Take a look at that again.
Got it sorted thank you, break in the white wire that didn't become apparent until taking in and out that many times it snapped 😂
What is the advantage of using the zstop pins instead of the probe pin for the bltouch? Also if I use the probe pins do I have to make changes to the firmware u are using?
There's no advantage. I just do it for clarity. Since we use the BLtouch as our Z-endstop, it seems clearer to me. Yes, if you switch to the probe pins, the firmware would need changing.
I am about to do this upgrade. In 2024 should I go with the SKR 1.4 turbo or something newer like the SKR 3 ez?
Hi Kris, Thank you for the tutorials, you helped so many peoples to set up their printers(mine as well). Would you tell me can i turn off bl touch without tuning the firmware? I am building 50x50x50cm cartesian type and will use the firmware you provide here. Also i will use five equal motors 42-34 for the printer will the motor settings be fine for all of them? I am asking because Ender 5 plus have 42-48 on Y axis and 42-40 as Extruder motor.
Best regards!
Hi love the vid, have followed and installed the 1.4 turbo board and tft on the ender 5 plus. FYI the latest enders seem to have the bl touch gnd and + reversed and the 2 pin connector that you had to reverse in the video you dont seem to have to do as the orientation seems correct now. Anyhow I have a question I am using your settings but in the latest marlin 2.0.7.2, so that I can use the Z offset wizard, not that its helping much :) why when auto levelling does the bltouch stay about 5cm away from the left hand edge and it does not seem to use the full extent of the board when leveling
Hopefully this serves as a reminder to pay attention to all of the information I cover about polarity and colors. I do try to cover it as best I can. 😅
The offset issue is because the BL touch will not go all the way to the edge on the right because of the mounting plate, cooling, etc. So, to keep the leveling grid symmetrical, we don't get closer on the left either.
Kinda weird, you swapped the polarity with the bltouch but when you plugged it in, the white is on the left which is reversed, did you flip the cable when you plugged it in?
No one's complained about the way I hooked it up. I think it's right, at least with my machine.
Hi Kris, do you perhaps have a firmware.bin that you configured with the latest marlin version. I am new to the modding scene and followed your instructions and all is working 100%. I would however like to upgrade the firmware to the latest version but I have no clue how to edit the new firmware to run my printer.
Followed your guide and everything is working great except when go to level the corners. It's acting like the bed size is small like an ender 3. Any ideas on what I got wrong ? Forgot to mention I'm using the 2209 build you have linked in description.
Please go to my community page: ua-cam.com/users/KerseyFabricationscommunity
There, several posts down possibly, you will find my latest firmware for the board and display. This should fix your problem. I'll update my links in the description later.
Hello Kersey,
Thanks for the great video and explanation on Ender 5 plus. I recently got my Ender5 plus. I have skr1.4 turbo with TMC2209 stepper driver.
Can you please confirm if this board work with the stock touchscreen for the Plus? I tried various firmware however the display is not turning on with skr1.4 turbo.
Thanks.
I cannot confirm it because I haven't gotten that setup to work yet either. It's on my to-do list because I know others have gotten it working. Check this source tree out for more information: github.com/InsanityAutomation/Marlin/tree/CrealityDwin_2.0
Is there a benefit to using the z-stop end stop connector instead of the bltouch probe connector? I know there are firmware changes involved for both setups.
Nope. Functionally, they work the same. I use the Z-stop simply for consistency. Since I'm using it as the Z-stop and not just for leveling, it makes sense to me.
I like your setup so much better than the others. Just a (maybe stupid) question, why to keep the USB connection available?. With my SKR 1.3 (in an E3) after the 1rst setup I did all the flashing with the mini SD and actually never used the USB again.
Thanks! I use it to run commands directly from my laptop and I use it to connect to OctoPrint.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks to you... I was sure my question was stupid (lol)... I´ve never connected a printer to a PC, maybe I am losing on something, but not eager to do it. Tomorrow is the re-release of the Creality 6 CoreXY, will take a look at that one and if it does not convince, will get the 5 plus and do this upgrade.
Hi Kersey, Thanks for the very useful info. I am doing everything like you in the video, but for a CR10s, and the only thing that happens is to have, after the firmware is loaded, the error err: MAXTEMP: bed. Doesn't matter if the thermistors are connected or not even with an empty board, the board stuck with that error. Any suggestions? Are 15 days I am looking around and no solution are given. Thank you
Feel free to send me your config files: kris@kerseyfabrications.com
@@kerseyfabs Thanks, You are magic
Hi I have a skr1.4 Turbo board with 2209 driver and set up as corexy for a laser and therefore use only the x and y axis.
Since I have not been able to make sensorless homing work I have cut a few pieces and put endswitch on, but get the same error and just can not see what is wrong, I can home x and y who separately and it works but when i set it to home y and then xs¨run it as it should until x is done and then i will restart do you have any ideas for what might be wrong! have tried different versions of marlin and it gives the same result
The Ender 5 Plus is setup with Max X and Max Y in the back right corner. The end-stops are positioned so that they're max stops, but the SKR boards only have plugs for min stops. Did you do anything with the firmware or in the slicer to address this or did you just accept that the coordinate system would be backwards? I have an SKR Pro v1.2 and was able to get it to work by modifying pin assignments, but I don't like that solution and am wondering if there was some way that was easier to address this.
Thank you so much for the detailed information on how to set up this skr 1.4 turbo MB, everything was working until I tried to home the ender 5 plus, X axis was going in other direction, so I thought maybe I uploaded the wrong firmware, so I uploaded the dual Z firmware, but then the screen showed squares ■■■■■■■■■■■■■ I have been reading all the comments here and triple checked the wirings, tried to upload different firmwares but no luck. The file changes from .bin to .cur but the screen just shows these squares still. Maybe you have some clues why this could happen?
My x axis is also going in reverse on my Ender 5 Plus with skr 1.4 turbo.----- Edit: Scratch that, I didn't flash the firmware correctly. Renaming the provided firmware in the description to just firmware.bin worked for me. It is homing correctly now. Thanks!
Hi! Servo of the BL-touch also needed to be changed with my E5+ (brown:ground, red:power, orange:signal). Besides that, great tutorial!
1 question: Marlin modes works great, touch mode says no printer attached. Is this normal? A firmware setting or did i screw up the little black cable? Thx, keep up the good work!
Yeah, the BLtouch wiring changes from time to time. For the touch interface, make sure the black wire is connected correctly and your display's baudrate is set to 115200.
I tried to finish up the SKR install today. However, something REALLY strange is happening. I'm not screaming please fix it for me, just looking for some thoughts if you have an idea.
When I first started it up the TFT is all white. OK, may I screwed it up somehow. Plug the TFT into another printer board. Nope working fine.
Process of deduction (pull off all the connections, and plug them in one at a time).
When the BLtouch servo connection is made it goes all white. All other connections seem fine, I can control the printer, move X,Y,Z etc.
NM...I looked closer and saw your update on the ordering of the wires (I have the red, brown, and orange setup). Once I had the wires in the right order all was good. Curiously my white/black for the end stop were already in the right order and I didn' need to fiddle with that...so far...I have yet to actually try a bed level. I have firmware issues for x,y (so far) it seems. I tried to compile my own since I have TMC 2209 drivers (Yes I dealt with the pin)
Give this one a shot for 2209 and a fix for the homing issue: drive.google.com/file/d/1wltLbc0ZSo6NutYvBtoOeo-Kv08YuYCO/view?usp=sharing
@@kerseyfabs Thanks, totally not expected, but appreciated.
I think the amazon link in the description is to a SKR 2 rather then a 1.4 does that matter?
It does matter. It seems like the SKR V1.4 is finally end of life. I'll work to get a SKR 2 video as soon as I can.
hi so what about the mounting of a manta m8p? i can't find anything useful around
some assistance would be appreciated.
Hi KF, thanks for the great work on bringing this video to us.
I have the printer up and running and homes correctly, the only problem i am having is when i start a G29 probe with the BLtouch it starts the probe at the front left instead of rear right.
It also starts the priming of the hotend at the front left instead of rear right as it originally did before the upgrade. Do you know how to change in marlin to make the printer
start probing rear right and priming rear right before print.
Cheers
No problem! First, you didn't mention which printer you have. Assuming it's the Ender 5 Plus, it should have always started in the front left. G29 always starts closest to (0,0) and goes from there.
Sorry mate, it is an ender 5 plus.
I must of had it setup to start probe from rear right, no worries all sorted now.
Cheers
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with all!!
Having problems leveling the bed. I already scratched my spring sheet beyond repair I think. My own fault for not being on the ready over the power switch. Oh well, Live and learn. One time the hotend was going to the center to probe z and I believe the fade failed and scratched it on middle. Just now, it auto homed correctly going thru the motions and when I began to level the bed, it lost the fade setting (I think that's what it is) and made another scratch from the middle towards the front left corner.
Any ideas?
Thanks in advance.
First, the fade height is what the bed leveling uses to re-adjust the print once bed variance is taken care of. You'r talking about the Z-offset. I don't see how it's "losing" that setting. I'm curious if you're performing bed leveling correctly.
1) Set z-offset in the settings.
@@kerseyfabs Thanks, Oh, I know it is user error. LOL. I will do the above steps. Muchas gracias!!! AND just because of your interest to help others!!! I became a patron!!! Keep up the great work!!
Thank you for your support! It's much appreciated!
@@kerseyfabs Ok, Ok, Ok !! Finally got around to messing around with bed leveling. I had to use the touch screen to be able to set the z-offset. In marlin mode, I just could not find where to set the z-offset!! All I kept coming across was "probe z offset" which after some thinking that was not it at all.
So, in the touch mode there is a screen where I could set the "z offset". So I did the bed leveling in there and it is printing now!!
IN MY OWN DEFENSE, I WAS LEFT UNSUPERVISED!!
Thank you much!!
I used your Firmware and my extruder will not move at all. it moves when i try the y stepper cable i even tried moving the e stepper connection down one slot. any ideas? I have TMC2209 and I feel like ive tried everything except compiling my own firmware. Thanks for the fantastic video its what got me this far..... and im sooo close... but yet so far. someone please any suggestions. THNX
Let's see what we can do.
First, did you verify that you are indeed running my firmware?
Second, did you reset EEPROM defaults? EEPROM Init.
Third, have you tried using the Marlin interface to make sure it's not a problem with the touch UI?
@@kerseyfabs hey I figure this out. The only question I have is I have a direct drive setup. Will this work correctly with it. I was getting some blobbly line extrusions.
I appreciate the replies and am in the calibration steps. You have been a huge help already. Thnx
great video, I followed along and just did mine. Only thing you left to be is desired is doing the Z offsets. If you need content, how us noobs how to configure the printer after this massive upgrade.
Thanks. I know there are a ton of videos I could make to help and I will do my best to get them out over time.
@@kerseyfabs you did a great job. Looking forward to your insight. well done sir!
Looks like I’m having the same issue with this new board. Have the firmware loaded up onto the as card as firmware.bin but when I power the machine on I get the BTT logo and then it gives me 2 options. One for touch mode and one for marlin mode and I can even select any of them.. I’m confused at this point. Is there a way I can do this via usb from my computer to the mobo? I’m wondering if it’s something I have to force into it?
Great work here giving me a good explanation of this printer in the same configuration. Is there a preconfigured marlin 2.0.9.2?
Thanks for all your help the last couple of days.. I have been trying to sort out another problem with the firmware. It comes up a message all the time fade hight or something? regarding bltouch. Do you have the source files so i can edit Bilinear To Linear for bl touch. I can tseem to use the config files with another version of marlin? Thank you
I've seen that fade height message on mine as well but it seems harmless. It seems to just be a setting notification. I don't know why you would change bilinear to linear. Either way though, here's my source from the description:
Link to my GitHub page with full source: github.com/KerseyFabrications/Marlin/tree/2.0.x-BTT-SKR-V1.4-Turbo-Ender5Plus-bugfix
Use the green "Code" button to download a zip file of this tree.
Do you have a how to marlin compile video for the ender 5 plus?
I do not have one yet. I would like to make one.
Also - can you confirm, will this show Octoprint prints as well? The factory setup doesn't know when Octoprint is printing something (which is very inconvenient), but I am currently using TinyMachines and it shows everything on the screen when sending from OctoPrint. Will this also continue to work this way with your firmware settings?
Yes. This will work fine with OctoPrint. I don't use the touchscreen mode, so I don't exactly what that looks like but it works great in Marlin mode.
I have no idea who to talk to about this, but the noise on the y axis has been happening unless i enable endstop noise filter. i even installed a capacitor enabled endstop and it still isnt fixing the issue. i am not sure where to go from here to fix the issue
The print head does not run to front right corner when doing corner level and stops almost at middle.
Pls help.
Are you using the touch interface or Marlin interface?
Hey Kris,
I’m just wondering. Did you have to adjust the potentiometers on this board for the Extruder stepper motors to prevent clicking? Or was it already set well from factory?
Planning on doing a long 2 day print and I don’t want my Extruder to click on me!
This board itself doesn't have potentiometers. If you install some older stepper drivers they may but if you install new TMC2208 of TMC2209 steppers, the reference voltage is software controlled. With my firmware settings, I've have no skipping but please make sure your temperature settings are good.
Just to let people know that you can't use the much loved Linear Advance feature in Marlin with the TMC2208's. You have to at the minimum use TMC2209's.
Hi. I have changed my E3 turbo for this board, and i want to use dual z-steppers. I have downloaded your fw for dual z and now i wonder which pin i should use for z1 and z2?
Check out my video on G34 Z alignment. It shows exactly what you're looking for.
I am having a hard time finding this firmware that goes with the he3-D K 280 machine
The only thing I could find with some quick searches was some older 1.1 code: github.com/Elenedeath/HE3D-Firmware
It looks like you may have to start from scratch or ask around on Reddit or Facebook groups.
Hey Kris, Great Informative Vids......... as always.
Just wondering if there are any firmware changes that need to be made if I use Probe Pins instead of Z Endstop Pins for BLTouch on SKR1.4Turbo/2209UART combo.
Hey this does the same basic set up for the anet or other printer right