Other than the sd card placement and how far it sticks out the board is awesome. The amount of connectors they have been able to fit in its footprint is wild.
Fantastic review and good catch on the issue with the SD card. It's always disappointing when something like this goes unnoticed by the manufacturer but, hopefully, people like yourself and others can spread the word enough to prevent others from having this issue. (And hopefully BTT updates their documentation, at the very least, with the suggestion to remove the tab as you did.)
Documentation updates coming today and a revision is already in progress but, since the board is also for use on many other machines, we will need to engineer a solution that solves this without making SD card access a hassle for other machines.
The main issue is just that this thing is so incredibly jam packed with every possible feature imaginable that it leaves very little wiggle room. Will get a revision out soon which adds V2 compatibility though.
I upgraded one of my Ender 3 Pros with the Manta E3EZ. However, I used the STL files for the enclosure of the Ender 3 V2 on the BTT E3EZ GitHub. The twist I put on that install was I added a 40mmX40mmx20mm block to the end of the left 40x40 rail to move the board forward 20 mm. This gives more room at the back where the screw terminals for power and heaters. It also helps to keep the SD card from getting in the way of the screw tab from the top cover down to the bottom cover. It is close but no interference. The rear mounting holes for the top and bottom plates I moved 20mm back to compensate for the covers moving forward 20mm due to the 20mm block added in front. I also used an STL for a BTT HDMI5 Voron mount. I added a 40x40x20mm block to the right side rail and mounted the display mount with long M5 screws into the end of the right rail. I also got a BTT 3.5 SPI touch display and found a STL for a mount on the right rail like the original metal mount. The 3.5 display looks nice, but it is so small my fat fingers have a hard time hitting the buttons on the screen. For that reason I am going back to the HDMI5 screen. My fingers can hit any button easily.
I did buy this with a CB-1 eMMC 16G, the CB-1 heat sink and the SPI-TFT35 for a future Trident build. I tested the board with CanBoot and Kipper and it works fine. However if you want to use this board with Klipper, you NEED a CM4 or CB-1, like ALL BTT Manta boards. You cannot connect a "normal" PI to it with an USB cable. All Manta boards are designed to talk only to a compute module (CM4 or CB-1)!!!
Just like before I got my NG for a DD upgrade, I've been on the fence about which control board to choose for my next E6 upgrade... You didn't steer me wrong with the NG (good LAWD - it's faaaantastic), so I think you've made up my mind yet again, sir!
I don't know if you saw this, but it looks like they have an STL available to print a new cover that corrects this issue and supplies access to those USB ports and SD card.
There will be a Marlin plus OctoPrint option for the Manta-with-Pi available in the near future, for a somewhat simplified configuration and the use of common displays. With this setup it should also be possible to use the StepDaemon that employs the G6 command for direct motion control.
I wonder if there's anything going on for the development of direct stepper motion, cause the Github page still shows the 2 years ago version that doesn't support even CoreXY motion systems yet, just Cartesian.
@@Kalvinjj I think Colin Godsey has moved on to other things. We are focusing a lot on the motion system lately, so perhaps that will generate more interest in G6.
I bought mine as soon as it went on sale, been waiting for some coverage on it. Thanks for the heads up on the clearance issue. Guess I'm either designing a case for it.
I'm having trouble getting klipper to see this board. No serial port is created. Did you use the menuconfig settings at 6:00? I can't think of anything else to try. BTW, I'm using a pi3 not CB1.
As a workaround for the screw/SD card issue, you can put the plate on 1" forward and then slide the tab back under the SD card, then use one of the short screws from the bottom corners on that screw hole, otherwise the longer screw will just break the card the other way. Otherwise, just got mine installed and set up and it's lookin minty fresh 👌just need to design a new enclosure to expose the USB and Ethernet ports
I did not. Typically I will if something arrives that is clearly defective. This on the other hand is design related and since it is not a beta I want to make sure to let others know quickly before their boards face a similar fate. I have sent the video to BTT with feedback and will update in the comments/description with any update.
I have this installed on an Ender 3. The mounting hole between the y&z stepper motor is .2-.3mm off, unable to use mounting screw in that particular spot. Also if you wanted it installed under the printer you would not be able to use the network cable USB or the HDMI. Some design flaws for sure, but otherwise I'm loving my board
BTT should have used a clamshell type microsd slot…those auto eject ones are useful for applications when you need to remove the sd card frequently or to access it without unscrewing anything.
Oh man, I did the exact same thing with my Ender 3 pro and this board when I installed it, and I ended up having to resolder my SD card holder back onto the board as well! But in my case, I just bent the tab straight up on the cover, so it fit through the gap. However, I also ended up breaking my SD card, so I had to re-flash everything onto a new card. Wish I would have seen this video first! Lol
I would really love to see a video on pairing a manta board with an orange pi cm 4. I have seen a few threads about it but there doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there.
With the EZ’s five motor control channels, is it possible to independently control two z-axis stepper motors used in a two z-axis modification on an Ender 3 instead of running them in parallel from a single channel? Thanks.
How has this board been performing? I purchased for my e3 v2 and got a cb1 emmc so it shouldn't have a micro SD card in the way I alao got the tft35spi. I have set up the cb1 and the screen so far but have not yet set up the firmware on the main board. Just curious to see some of your printing here any impressions and also if you ha e added accelerometers or any other features onto your printer
Does the board run without the CM Module ? I got it as a replacement for my SKR Mini. But the board is not found on the usb port (using the same setup port/cable as before)
I did not have the tab issue on a standard Ender 3, On my Pro in which I mounted it, I had already used a different printed case to house an SKR v1.3. SO I modified that case and 3d printed it, and moved the board over closer to the center to allow a little more room, Also the CAN pins are different and are not implemented in Klipper yet.
I just orded this as part of kit with 5 2209 stepper drivers and a CB1, as I want shift to autolevl via dual Z motors and Klipper alongside permenantly attach a pair of adxl345 for input shaping. The concern I have is I hear about the SD card for Klipper getting corrupted when device is not shut down properly. I had orginally planned to keep an RP4 permenatly powered on when I started looking at Klipper, but this board intergartes and has a 5th stepper. Is SD card corruption an issue with this board, or is there a simple way to tell it shut down before I turn off the power?
While I understand the issue with the sd card, is it necessary? I know the mainboards like the skr mini e3 v2 don't require the sd card, where as the raspberry pi that host klipper or octoprint need an sd card to have the firmware. But what about this board? Maybe it doesn't require an sd card, and this will make it a "drop-in" replacement?
Yeah! So those are JST connectors. I recommend PA-09 crimpers. They arent the cheapest but I tell you what if you don't have experience crimping they make it much easier.
@@ModBotArmy seriously appreciate your help man! I have a few of the belted z variants being built now. I need to do some wiring work on them and yeah.. good to get it from the source, someone using the stuff. I am going to try to get a channel going, I have the CR10 S5 that I am doing the double motor belted z on it. Plan on fitting the lower with a Voron-esq look with it. Anyway, resto-modding the older 8 bit printers is fun as hell. Cheers man!
Are you able to run klipper with the ender3v2 screen? Also will this board work with their hdmi screens? I'm wondering if I would want the m5p or this ez3 for my ender3v2. I do not have a problem designing cases to mount a board to the printer
Just received my M5p, CB1 and PITFT50 today, sadly, i now find the the CB1 does NOT support the CSi screen. Really!?! you have to use an HDMI cable? that can’t be correct? anyone know if there’s a way to make the CSI screen work with these?
Sounds like you should design and print a new electronic box or at least the cover. I do agree though that the design of the board was not thought out very well. Also, the SD card should be accessible from the outside of the electronic box.
In the cfg file for the ender 3, under the 2209 section they have the default amperage as 0.8 when I looked. I would double check to see what amperage your specific stepper needs and if you can get away with lowering it a bit.
Looks like they have a display they’re selling alongside this (tft35 spi) Hopefully someone makes a STL file for an adapter to make it work with the ender 3. I know you don’t need a display for klipper but I would absolutely love having the klipper ui integrated into the printer entirely. Especially on an ender 3
that sounds like a problem with just the ender 3 max, its not a problem on v2s, pros or non pros, the skr mini e3 line has been in production and use for a few years now and that problem has not been reported so far
@@Fisheiyy those boards don't have the sd card in that position, I had no problem installing it but was just saying it would with the E3EZ board because of the screw position on the cover.
@@ModBotArmy I'm more worried about connector compatibility. Do creality and anycubic use the same pins and connectors? I have experience with ender3 and an SKR board.
But the most important, is this board really worth it? Not only price but effort for mod and firmware burning. Which are the things this board could do that stock board don't just to start?
I gues that this thing will bring the klipper option on a single board configuration. Many of us dont find the sense of using two boards with two power conections for an ender 3. I have a Mellow fly e3 v3 with RRF on my ender 3 pro and i dont want more complications with a second board for a very slow bed slinger.
You can drop this into, say, the recently released Elegoo Saturn, mod it for dual Z-axis, get Klipper running, do some accelerometer calibration, and you'll immediately get much better printing speeds.
Clearly this is a BTT issue. On their purchase site there is an image with text that talks about "perfect" compatibility with Ender 3 *and* a rendering of an Ender 3 with this board that includes the cover! I would like to give BTT the benefit of the doubt, but something needs to be done. Thanks @ModBot for bring this to the attention of the community. BTT, your move...
@@tonyradle8747 ender 3 has a smaller y-carriage and gives maybe 1cm of extra room? Don't know for sure i only have the ender 3 pro. But the stl for another electronics case is on their github now.
@@michelvangent3683 Thats great that they provide people a case to print but, none of that changes the fact it really cant be considered a drop in replacement. AND worse yet they know about it but have not updated any product pages to disclose this issue.
@@tonyradle8747 Thats true and it should be communicated by them before you buy it. Only for me it's not the biggest deal. But for people who just want to reconnect some wires it is not ideal.
You know I'm torn because I agree with you that this is an EZ board and should be drop in replacement. But I'm also compelled to point out that the only boards named on the site (when I went to go buy it because of course I am lol) is the Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro and Ender 5. No mention of it working with a V2. BUT I very much agree with your assessment that it should be located somewhere else. Maybe they could put something on the site that says if using with Ender 3 V2, the OS SD can not be used and they recommend a CM4 with on board EMMC storage.....but that also doesn't further the sales of their own CB1
installing this into an anycubic chiron and wanted to see how you got access to the USB ports and ethernet... doesn't look like you had much luck, either 😂
@@looxonline They do not list V2, but they say "etc". So everyone interprets it differently. Ideally, if something like this can happen BTT should very clearly specify in red letters that it only fits specific models and list them all. That is pretty much it, a win-win for everyone.
@@looxonline In the title it says "for Ender 3/Ender 3Pro/Ender 5" and only in the photos says "direct upgrade for E3 and good choice for E3 pro, E5, CR10 and etc". So technically yes, it is my bad saying that designers forgot that SD card sticks out. The only thing I want is that companies would specify things more clearly with less marketing wording. If it is only fully compatible with E3 just write it. It is easier for the consumer and less headaches for the support. That is all. Cheers!
@@PrintingPerspective Agreed. We are actually going to add a note to the checkout page where any user who has this in their cart will be warned that they need to trim the tab if they plan to use it with an E3 MAX or V2.
Btw, I had the same experience in my Ender 3 Pro (luckily my re-solder job seems to have worked). Not sure if it's a variance in machines or not, but for what it's worth.
@@marcusacunningham In my ender 3 pro the same problem. I was lucky to read al this before i broke something. Now i need te print myself a new electronics box before i can go further with the swap.
I just looked again at the manual and see nothing that stands out? If it is in there it definitely does not stand out enough. Something as big as that should be in bold right at the beginning. I also dont think that is enough. Unless they have an .stl for a new base that is part of the install telling someone to leave the bottom off of their printer is not a solution.
@@ModBotArmy ya it’s either there or in the description. Seen it while I was tinkercading the new box for it if all things lol . Ngl tno @modbot is should of been in big letters across the box lol 🤷♂️ Woopsie. Did they replace it for you atleast
It's apparent that they haven't even slightly checked for compatibility. I think it would be a good idea for BTT to release a board and perfect everything instead of releasing a new board every three weeks.
Compatibility was tested in the machines that it is advertised as being compatible with. The V2 was not one of them. Nevertheless, an update will be issued for the V2.
Here's a crazy idea. Just build and enclosure that mounts to the frame and install the board on it. They created a square board with the sole purpose of controlling 3D printers or CNC machines. You can't just shove it in whatever 3D printer and expect it physically fit. You can't expect them to accommodate whatever machine you're using. You have the tools to build a better mounting location for it.
You must have missed that this is the E3EZ. It is made for this printer. Of course you can build an enclosure for the board. That can be done for any board. What is unique about this board is its ability to be swapped into creality printers without needing to do that.
@@ModBotArmy it's unavoidable. It's also made to work with the printer, not fit inside of it. Huge difference. Considering the DS card is not accessible, a separate enclosure seems more of a common sense.
@@TechnologistAtWork Drivel of the first order. "made to work with the printer, not fit inside of it" !?! Are you stoned? Thats beyond tortured logic, its pure unmitigated waffling nonsense. Here is your new car, its made to work with humans you just can't be inside it when you drive it, it's unavoidable! it's common sense! FFS, what a twat.
@@TechnologistAtWork it is infact made to fit inside of it, otherwise they would not use the same mounting points and design it to fit inside the original electronics housing nearly perfectly
@@TechnologistAtWork you seem to have missed the entire point of this board, which is intended to be a drop-in replacement, meaning it replaces the stock board inside the machine. it absolutely should fit in place and not require any custom printing or modifications, as that defeats the entire purpose. BTT already has plenty of generic boards with similar functionality if you don't care about printing off an enclosure. this board would fit an E3V1 just fine, but it's an oversight not to have checked it on an E3V2, plain and simple.
Depends on what you are doing. If your doing something like a Switchwire build it isn’t bad. Also this isn’t just an Ender 3 board. It can be used for many builds.
The board itself is ~70€ with drivers. Klipper is going to need a second board regardless, compared to alternatives, this is a reasonable price especially considering the ease If you just want klipper, you can get get the pi4b adapter and cb1
Thanks for the quick look and the warning! I'm switching from an M8P to this new BTT E3EZ so this is all really good info.
Other than the sd card placement and how far it sticks out the board is awesome. The amount of connectors they have been able to fit in its footprint is wild.
Why would you be replacing a Manta 8P? Perhaps using it for another project that requires it more?
BTT has been able to pull off pretty solid designs within the constraints of the e3 mainboard, v2 of this is gonna be interesting to see
Fantastic review and good catch on the issue with the SD card. It's always disappointing when something like this goes unnoticed by the manufacturer but, hopefully, people like yourself and others can spread the word enough to prevent others from having this issue. (And hopefully BTT updates their documentation, at the very least, with the suggestion to remove the tab as you did.)
Documentation updates coming today and a revision is already in progress but, since the board is also for use on many other machines, we will need to engineer a solution that solves this without making SD card access a hassle for other machines.
The main issue is just that this thing is so incredibly jam packed with every possible feature imaginable that it leaves very little wiggle room. Will get a revision out soon which adds V2 compatibility though.
I upgraded one of my Ender 3 Pros with the Manta E3EZ. However, I used the STL files for the enclosure of the Ender 3 V2 on the BTT E3EZ GitHub. The twist I put on that install was I added a 40mmX40mmx20mm block to the end of the left 40x40 rail to move the board forward 20 mm. This gives more room at the back where the screw terminals for power and heaters. It also helps to keep the SD card from getting in the way of the screw tab from the top cover down to the bottom cover. It is close but no interference. The rear mounting holes for the top and bottom plates I moved 20mm back to compensate for the covers moving forward 20mm due to the 20mm block added in front. I also used an STL for a BTT HDMI5 Voron mount. I added a 40x40x20mm block to the right side rail and mounted the display mount with long M5 screws into the end of the right rail. I also got a BTT 3.5 SPI touch display and found a STL for a mount on the right rail like the original metal mount. The 3.5 display looks nice, but it is so small my fat fingers have a hard time hitting the buttons on the screen. For that reason I am going back to the HDMI5 screen. My fingers can hit any button easily.
I did buy this with a CB-1 eMMC 16G, the CB-1 heat sink and the SPI-TFT35 for a future Trident build.
I tested the board with CanBoot and Kipper and it works fine.
However if you want to use this board with Klipper, you NEED a CM4 or CB-1, like ALL BTT Manta boards. You cannot connect a "normal" PI to it with an USB cable. All Manta boards are designed to talk only to a compute module (CM4 or CB-1)!!!
Just like before I got my NG for a DD upgrade, I've been on the fence about which control board to choose for my next E6 upgrade... You didn't steer me wrong with the NG (good LAWD - it's faaaantastic), so I think you've made up my mind yet again, sir!
They aren't available in the US right now 😩
@@hamthomas4715 Should be directly off the BTT site.
I don't know if you saw this, but it looks like they have an STL available to print a new cover that corrects this issue and supplies access to those USB ports and SD card.
There will be a Marlin plus OctoPrint option for the Manta-with-Pi available in the near future, for a somewhat simplified configuration and the use of common displays. With this setup it should also be possible to use the StepDaemon that employs the G6 command for direct motion control.
I wonder if there's anything going on for the development of direct stepper motion, cause the Github page still shows the 2 years ago version that doesn't support even CoreXY motion systems yet, just Cartesian.
@@Kalvinjj I think Colin Godsey has moved on to other things. We are focusing a lot on the motion system lately, so perhaps that will generate more interest in G6.
@@ScottLahteine Yes, I hope a fork of that comes out.
Thanks for the review. They was a huge oversight from BTT
I bought mine as soon as it went on sale, been waiting for some coverage on it. Thanks for the heads up on the clearance issue. Guess I'm either designing a case for it.
I'm having trouble getting klipper to see this board. No serial port is created. Did you use the menuconfig settings at 6:00? I can't think of anything else to try. BTW, I'm using a pi3 not CB1.
Did you sort this? Set up my E3EZ today and my Pi4B cannot see it via USB. Seems to be alive as the firmware.bin got renamed to firmware.cur
As a workaround for the screw/SD card issue, you can put the plate on 1" forward and then slide the tab back under the SD card, then use one of the short screws from the bottom corners on that screw hole, otherwise the longer screw will just break the card the other way. Otherwise, just got mine installed and set up and it's lookin minty fresh 👌just need to design a new enclosure to expose the USB and Ethernet ports
Did you contact BTT about this issue before publishing? I’m curious what they have to say about this.
I did not. Typically I will if something arrives that is clearly defective. This on the other hand is design related and since it is not a beta I want to make sure to let others know quickly before their boards face a similar fate. I have sent the video to BTT with feedback and will update in the comments/description with any update.
@@ModBotArmy Very logical. I like the look of this board for my CR-10, thanks for making the video.
I have this installed on an Ender 3. The mounting hole between the y&z stepper motor is .2-.3mm off, unable to use mounting screw in that particular spot. Also if you wanted it installed under the printer you would not be able to use the network cable USB or the HDMI. Some design flaws for sure, but otherwise I'm loving my board
Why do the ez5160 stepper drivers have a voltage setting for 8 volts? 2:56
Interesting video as always 👍
Good find with that cover!
Thanks for sharing your expirences with All of us 👍😃
BTT should have used a clamshell type microsd slot…those auto eject ones are useful for applications when you need to remove the sd card frequently or to access it without unscrewing anything.
I had same micro sd card issue with SKR 1.4 Turbo. BTT shoud really invest in better sd card slots
Great videos as always! Thanks. Where i can find the belt driven mod?
I had issues with the SD card slot on my Skr Mini V3 and it broke off rendering the board useless. The solder points were not very solid.
Been excited for this board, great video! Hope they fix that SD card slot, that seems like a big problem.
Oh man, I did the exact same thing with my Ender 3 pro and this board when I installed it, and I ended up having to resolder my SD card holder back onto the board as well! But in my case, I just bent the tab straight up on the cover, so it fit through the gap. However, I also ended up breaking my SD card, so I had to re-flash everything onto a new card. Wish I would have seen this video first! Lol
I would really love to see a video on pairing a manta board with an orange pi cm 4. I have seen a few threads about it but there doesn't seem to be a lot of info out there.
With the EZ’s five motor control channels, is it possible to independently control two z-axis stepper motors used in a two z-axis modification on an Ender 3 instead of running them in parallel from a single channel? Thanks.
How has this board been performing? I purchased for my e3 v2 and got a cb1 emmc so it shouldn't have a micro SD card in the way I alao got the tft35spi. I have set up the cb1 and the screen so far but have not yet set up the firmware on the main board. Just curious to see some of your printing here any impressions and also if you ha e added accelerometers or any other features onto your printer
Does the board run without the CM Module ? I got it as a replacement for my SKR Mini. But the board is not found on the usb port (using the same setup port/cable as before)
I did not have the tab issue on a standard Ender 3, On my Pro in which I mounted it, I had already used a different printed case to house an SKR v1.3. SO I modified that case and 3d printed it, and moved the board over closer to the center to allow a little more room, Also the CAN pins are different and are not implemented in Klipper yet.
any update regarding the can pins?
Love the btt drivers, I can never figure the right way to plug old ones, this is just plugandplay
Is that CAN port direct CAN communication (H and L) or does it require their CAN communication board? 🤔
Does it support the CR touch?😅
I just orded this as part of kit with 5 2209 stepper drivers and a CB1, as I want shift to autolevl via dual Z motors and Klipper alongside permenantly attach a pair of adxl345 for input shaping.
The concern I have is I hear about the SD card for Klipper getting corrupted when device is not shut down properly. I had orginally planned to keep an RP4 permenatly powered on when I started looking at Klipper, but this board intergartes and has a 5th stepper.
Is SD card corruption an issue with this board, or is there a simple way to tell it shut down before I turn off the power?
While I understand the issue with the sd card, is it necessary? I know the mainboards like the skr mini e3 v2 don't require the sd card, where as the raspberry pi that host klipper or octoprint need an sd card to have the firmware. But what about this board? Maybe it doesn't require an sd card, and this will make it a "drop-in" replacement?
Exactly my question. Did you uncover the answer?
could you tell us what electrical ends you have and the tool to crimp them please? Thank you!
Yeah! So those are JST connectors. I recommend PA-09 crimpers. They arent the cheapest but I tell you what if you don't have experience crimping they make it much easier.
@@ModBotArmy seriously appreciate your help man! I have a few of the belted z variants being built now. I need to do some wiring work on them and yeah.. good to get it from the source, someone using the stuff. I am going to try to get a channel going, I have the CR10 S5 that I am doing the double motor belted z on it. Plan on fitting the lower with a Voron-esq look with it.
Anyway, resto-modding the older 8 bit printers is fun as hell.
Cheers man!
Are you able to run klipper with the ender3v2 screen?
Also will this board work with their hdmi screens? I'm wondering if I would want the m5p or this ez3 for my ender3v2. I do not have a problem designing cases to mount a board to the printer
Good work
? For you have you ever tried the 3 stepper extension board and will it work with this version of board
Thanks I got a m8p for my cr10. Then they come out with this.
Please I have a question Which is better
Anycubic photon D2 or elegoo staurn 2
I will use it in the dental field
Would you suggest this being ok for the Ender 6?
Just received my M5p, CB1 and PITFT50 today, sadly, i now find the the CB1 does NOT support the CSi screen. Really!?! you have to use an HDMI cable? that can’t be correct? anyone know if there’s a way to make the CSI screen work with these?
Sooo for a fast delta- e3ez or m4p?
Sounds like you should design and print a new electronic box or at least the cover. I do agree though that the design of the board was not thought out very well. Also, the SD card should be accessible from the outside of the electronic box.
@ModBot, Have you noticed that your stepper drivers run hotter after installing this board with the 2209 drivers?
I am experiencing overheating in my extruder motor with that same drivers. Did you find any fix for this?
In the cfg file for the ender 3, under the 2209 section they have the default amperage as 0.8 when I looked. I would double check to see what amperage your specific stepper needs and if you can get away with lowering it a bit.
Looks like they have a display they’re selling alongside this (tft35 spi) Hopefully someone makes a STL file for an adapter to make it work with the ender 3. I know you don’t need a display for klipper but I would absolutely love having the klipper ui integrated into the printer entirely. Especially on an ender 3
I just installed an SKR E3 into an Ender 3 max and it has the same screw placement on the cover so one to add to the list.
that sounds like a problem with just the ender 3 max, its not a problem on v2s, pros or non pros, the skr mini e3 line has been in production and use for a few years now and that problem has not been reported so far
@@Fisheiyy those boards don't have the sd card in that position, I had no problem installing it but was just saying it would with the E3EZ board because of the screw position on the cover.
i was just wounding, I have a JG maker Artist D. Do you know if this board will work? I like like what i see
Will this work on a CR10-S Pro V2?
Could I get this to work in an anycubu chrion?
Definitely! Mounting points are likely different so you would need to figure out how you are going to mount the board but other than that yes.
@@ModBotArmy I'm more worried about connector compatibility. Do creality and anycubic use the same pins and connectors?
I have experience with ender3 and an SKR board.
Seems like they should have used a vertical microsd card slot on the top of the board.
You saved my ass with the sd card thing
Will this work on the neptune 3?
Do you need the CB1 to run Klipper?
Yes, or a CM4 or an external RPi
But the most important, is this board really worth it? Not only price but effort for mod and firmware burning. Which are the things this board could do that stock board don't just to start?
I gues that this thing will bring the klipper option on a single board configuration. Many of us dont find the sense of using two boards with two power conections for an ender 3. I have a Mellow fly e3 v3 with RRF on my ender 3 pro and i dont want more complications with a second board for a very slow bed slinger.
You can drop this into, say, the recently released Elegoo Saturn, mod it for dual Z-axis, get Klipper running, do some accelerometer calibration, and you'll immediately get much better printing speeds.
...and ..this board fits really tight. I have crimped my 24v connectors for safety reasons..now they are beeing bend...
they could have put the sd card on a wire harness with solder pads or a nice small plug...
Can I use my pi3b on this?
Clearly this is a BTT issue. On their purchase site there is an image with text that talks about "perfect" compatibility with Ender 3 *and* a rendering of an Ender 3 with this board that includes the cover! I would like to give BTT the benefit of the doubt, but something needs to be done. Thanks @ModBot for bring this to the attention of the community. BTT, your move...
To their credit, they don't mention the E3V2 on their site, but this was an oversight nonetheless
@@gerrycave It also interferes with my E3Pro. I believe it will clash with most (If not all) Sku's of ender 3.
@@tonyradle8747 ender 3 has a smaller y-carriage and gives maybe 1cm of extra room? Don't know for sure i only have the ender 3 pro. But the stl for another electronics case is on their github now.
@@michelvangent3683 Thats great that they provide people a case to print but, none of that changes the fact it really cant be considered a drop in replacement. AND worse yet they know about it but have not updated any product pages to disclose this issue.
@@tonyradle8747 Thats true and it should be communicated by them before you buy it. Only for me it's not the biggest deal. But for people who just want to reconnect some wires it is not ideal.
I mean it doesn't say Ender 3 V2 in the listing sooooo......
You know I'm torn because I agree with you that this is an EZ board and should be drop in replacement. But I'm also compelled to point out that the only boards named on the site (when I went to go buy it because of course I am lol) is the Ender 3/Ender 3 Pro and Ender 5. No mention of it working with a V2. BUT I very much agree with your assessment that it should be located somewhere else. Maybe they could put something on the site that says if using with Ender 3 V2, the OS SD can not be used and they recommend a CM4 with on board EMMC storage.....but that also doesn't further the sales of their own CB1
Docs are being updated today and who says that there is no CB1 with eMMC about to land ;)
emmc instead of microsd would be nice. :)
That would be awesome.
Wow this has no doubt saved me enormous hassle. Now find a fix for the truly awful B1 SE Plus hotend.
Or at the very least they could just include a paper with the board with instructions to break off that tab on the case before installation.
installing this into an anycubic chiron and wanted to see how you got access to the USB ports and ethernet... doesn't look like you had much luck, either 😂
I am glad I am not the only one who likes this board overall.
K̶i̶n̶d̶a̶ ̶c̶r̶a̶z̶y̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶d̶e̶s̶i̶g̶n̶e̶r̶s̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶g̶o̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶M̶i̶c̶r̶o̶S̶D̶ ̶c̶a̶r̶d̶ ̶s̶t̶i̶c̶k̶s̶ ̶o̶u̶t̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶w̶o̶n̶'̶t̶ ̶p̶r̶o̶p̶e̶r̶l̶y̶ ̶f̶i̶t̶ ̶i̶n̶t̶o̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶m̶a̶c̶h̶i̶n̶e̶ ̶d̶e̶s̶i̶g̶n̶e̶d̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶f̶i̶t̶.̶ ̶M̶i̶s̶t̶a̶k̶e̶s̶ ̶l̶i̶k̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶s̶e̶ ̶c̶a̶n̶ ̶r̶u̶i̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶e̶x̶p̶e̶r̶i̶e̶n̶c̶e̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶p̶e̶o̶p̶l̶e̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶m̶u̶c̶h̶,̶ ̶h̶o̶p̶e̶f̶u̶l̶l̶y̶,̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶y̶ ̶w̶i̶l̶l̶ ̶r̶e̶v̶i̶s̶e̶ ̶i̶t̶.̶
@@looxonline They do not list V2, but they say "etc". So everyone interprets it differently. Ideally, if something like this can happen BTT should very clearly specify in red letters that it only fits specific models and list them all. That is pretty much it, a win-win for everyone.
@@looxonline In the title it says "for Ender 3/Ender 3Pro/Ender 5" and only in the photos says "direct upgrade for E3 and good choice for E3 pro, E5, CR10 and etc". So technically yes, it is my bad saying that designers forgot that SD card sticks out. The only thing I want is that companies would specify things more clearly with less marketing wording. If it is only fully compatible with E3 just write it. It is easier for the consumer and less headaches for the support. That is all. Cheers!
@@PrintingPerspective Agreed. We are actually going to add a note to the checkout page where any user who has this in their cart will be warned that they need to trim the tab if they plan to use it with an E3 MAX or V2.
Btw, I had the same experience in my Ender 3 Pro (luckily my re-solder job seems to have worked). Not sure if it's a variance in machines or not, but for what it's worth.
@@marcusacunningham In my ender 3 pro the same problem. I was lucky to read al this before i broke something. Now i need te print myself a new electronics box before i can go further with the swap.
You really should of read the manual before you installed it lol.
Only fits the screw holes nd not the case
WHAT?!
I just looked again at the manual and see nothing that stands out? If it is in there it definitely does not stand out enough. Something as big as that should be in bold right at the beginning. I also dont think that is enough. Unless they have an .stl for a new base that is part of the install telling someone to leave the bottom off of their printer is not a solution.
If you have a link or page number to where you see that please let me know. The word case is not in their .pdf.
@@ModBotArmy ya it’s either there or in the description. Seen it while I was tinkercading the new box for it if all things lol . Ngl tno @modbot is should of been in big letters across the box lol 🤷♂️ Woopsie. Did they replace it for you atleast
Print a different electronics tray, it's already a modded printer.
It's apparent that they haven't even slightly checked for compatibility. I think it would be a good idea for BTT to release a board and perfect everything instead of releasing a new board every three weeks.
Compatibility was tested in the machines that it is advertised as being compatible with. The V2 was not one of them. Nevertheless, an update will be issued for the V2.
@@looxonline They put it on their github as of now.
Thats some pretty silly design oversight
This is not e3ez board
Lol
@@ModBotArmy facepalm, they have e3ez and now manta e3ez, my bad
@@mikhaildavidenko3841 no worries. I honestly had no idea if you were trolling 😂❤️
@@ModBotArmy I would update title, it is kinda confused me in the beginning
Done 😊
First lol
Here's a crazy idea. Just build and enclosure that mounts to the frame and install the board on it.
They created a square board with the sole purpose of controlling 3D printers or CNC machines. You can't just shove it in whatever 3D printer and expect it physically fit. You can't expect them to accommodate whatever machine you're using. You have the tools to build a better mounting location for it.
You must have missed that this is the E3EZ. It is made for this printer.
Of course you can build an enclosure for the board. That can be done for any board. What is unique about this board is its ability to be swapped into creality printers without needing to do that.
@@ModBotArmy it's unavoidable. It's also made to work with the printer, not fit inside of it. Huge difference.
Considering the DS card is not accessible, a separate enclosure seems more of a common sense.
@@TechnologistAtWork Drivel of the first order. "made to work with the printer, not fit inside of it" !?! Are you stoned? Thats beyond tortured logic, its pure unmitigated waffling nonsense.
Here is your new car, its made to work with humans you just can't be inside it when you drive it, it's unavoidable! it's common sense! FFS, what a twat.
@@TechnologistAtWork it is infact made to fit inside of it, otherwise they would not use the same mounting points and design it to fit inside the original electronics housing nearly perfectly
@@TechnologistAtWork you seem to have missed the entire point of this board, which is intended to be a drop-in replacement, meaning it replaces the stock board inside the machine. it absolutely should fit in place and not require any custom printing or modifications, as that defeats the entire purpose. BTT already has plenty of generic boards with similar functionality if you don't care about printing off an enclosure. this board would fit an E3V1 just fine, but it's an oversight not to have checked it on an E3V2, plain and simple.
2 expensive... 220€ printer with a over 100€ expensive board?
The board itself is not 100€
@@albertbassoe5966 oh the driver and the cm module is for free 👍
Depends on what you are doing. If your doing something like a Switchwire build it isn’t bad. Also this isn’t just an Ender 3 board. It can be used for many builds.
The board itself is ~70€ with drivers. Klipper is going to need a second board regardless, compared to alternatives, this is a reasonable price especially considering the ease
If you just want klipper, you can get get the pi4b adapter and cb1