I muttered something like "I'd test those caps if they are marked Nichicon and from Aliexpress!" ... and you did. Sometimes I check how much video there is to run before making such rash statements, but it got the better of me today.
My guess is they are actually genuine but have been sorted out because they read on the low end. There is a lot of stuff to be had like this on Ali. Nevertheless, these will be better what was in there.
@@FireballXL55 Yes, because active PFC does tend to stress them with high voltage, often right at the top end of the voltage range, with high ripple current all the time at high frequency, as it is operating, not the 2 times a mains cycle pulse of current
I'm running about half a dozen of these Ubiquiti switches, most of them somewhere around 8 years old by now. They've been really reliable so far, one of them is in a shed that gets baked in summer and frozen in winter yet it soldiers on like a champ running my outdoor IP cameras. Video bookmarked ready for the day one of them suffers this failure.
I read those switches had heat issues. 150 watt and no fan. They finally came back into stock this summer so I bought one to have as a spare. Good to know yours have done well. Unifi doesn't have many switches that can do passive Poe. I guess I could throw a converter on and go with a 8 port pro or pro max 16. These switches come in at such a good price point and have SFP.
Just watched a video the other day by MyMateVince fixing a Ubiquiti switch (slightly larger) and it seemed to have the same powersupply with the same dodgy capacitor.. obviously a common failure.. Nice job !
MyMateVince changed almost every component on it though before coming to the capacitor :p When I started watching this video didn't know it contains similar PSU. I found it strange the bulb didn't flash on the first plug in, so that is the first clue. If the bulb flashes 30:08 for a moment means the hot side main cap has some capacitance as it charges and the link to it is not broken.
@@dominicwebb8000 I once launched an open laptop almost 5 meters because of a charged cap. Further repair was not necessary, but the hard disk could be saved.
Nice fix. I will admit to yelling at the screen: "Those Rubycons are fine. They rarely fail" and "That bulk cap is probably fine, they almost never fail, but yeah test it". Wow, it was open. Pretty rare. Also, "Test the new one!" A Nichicon off of Ali Express? Yeah, not surprised it measured low. I buy stuff from Ali, but not caps. Digikey all day every day. All that said, Unifi gear is worth fixing glad you got it working!
Thanks Steve, Yes they could well be fakes, but as you say they seem to get the job done. I did try a few other suppliers first, but there were none with the correct dimensions as the lowest was 25mm high.
Thanks Mick! Glad to see that you seem to be doing well again. Those switches do seem to run hot and I guess from the looks of this they suffer because of it. When you first took that cap out I wasn't convinced it was the problem, but there you go. Good clean diagnostic work and a fine result. Thanks very much for letting us look over your shoulder.
Aye I have half a dozen of these Ubiquiti US-8-150W switches and they run hot enough to keep your dinner warm. Unifi reports the internal temperature on them around 67c.
When it doubt always suspect the Electrolytic Capacitors especially in network equipment since they are on constantly and many get hot do to poor air circulation. But I liked the Capacitor disassembly proof of concept of failure, that my friend was a Sherlock Holmes move. Great video as always mate.
Surprise, surprise...a capacitor and a specific physical size at that! The Engineer desoldering tool is fantastic and the cap dis-charger is sweet. Nichicon from AliX, good luck there. Great fix once again, always enjoy your skills. Awesome.
Problem with those "engineer" suckers or any sucker is keeping it from.getting the spring stuck with solder. I just buy from Harbor Freight with 3 suckers to a pack and 2 reels of wick braid for around $9/package. Cheaper than Temu. I'm beginning to think Harbor Freight is a U.S. distributor of Temu🤔
That's weird, the ones I buy last only a few weeks as the o-rong used as a check valve on the piston geta abraided by fine aplder particles. I didn't know how yours last so long, even I clean mine regularly. PS. My desoldering tool is the one with a silver body, a blue handle and a black plunger.
I think that is my favorite switch Ubiquiti ever made. They were pretty reliable, had an actually useful amount of poe power you didnt have to worry about using like the newer, small switches do, and had integrated 24v passive poe for connecting to UISP PtP units as well. It was a sad day when they moved to "gen 2" and removed all 24v support and cut poe budget in half
Yes , the same thing is pissing me off , they discontinue(d) the good stuff. US-16-150 US-24-250 also ... and went with passive nonsense cooling. Because noobs keep their switches in the bedroom around RGB lights ffs inside open-racks. lmao
@@GabrielKozsar That is why I'll buy a used cisco for a lot of poe ports, with 60w support too. More feature, sometimes cheaper, have 10G... Yes, i'll not have etherlight, and other fancy stuff, but my rack is not near living space, since it's a "bit" loud, especially in the summer 😂
Yes me either, they rarely fail. but it was the only other cap on the input side. I think either a poor quality cap, or perhaps the PFC circuit switching that inductor in / out caused it to fail prematurely, as this also happens on the output caps on SMPS.
Nice work, saved from the dump. For the light on the front, it's an indentation of the status of connectivity. Flashing white is powering up. Solid white is ready for adoption, solid blue is connected to the controller, and white and blue alternating flashing is firmware update. These are the old style the new ones have screens. Nice work though.
Thanks 👍and thanks for the info. That's the problem when someone sends me something to look at, I could spend hours trying to find manuals and reading them, but I'd rather spend the time trying to repair it 😂😂😂👍
Nice! The big cap! MyMateVince had one of these fail in a device end of last year too, IIRC. He managed to cobble^Wbodge it together again, just as a funny experiment. And yes, he also cut the metal to fit the new cap! :D
Nice. I think I did catch that video, but normally when you see a PSU pulse or tick it's usually caps. Mains cap failure is pretty rare though. I've only seen it a few times. I'm wondering if it's just a poor quality cap, or if the PFC circuit is hammering the inductor in and out has shortened the life of it (this happens on the output caps of SMPS too).
...and not a screwdriver or hammer in sight for prising apart components like My M8 Vince..LOL...nice to see an educated person working on electronics correctly...I learn so much about circuits and what components are meant to do. Another quality YT upload...Happy New Year and keep them coming..!
Its nice seeing a professional but vince never said he is a professional at it or that he does it right, its just for his and our entertainment and he learns in the process like a lot of people do. I also learn in the process which for me is the best instead of studying out of a few million books or tutorials. But yeah mick is a professional at it and does it properly
I don't disagree, but I have to hand it to Vince, he does lack some electronics knowledge, but he's got the balls to try, and the patience to disassemble way deeper than I would go.
I think My Mate Vince had a similar big capacitor failure where it had shorted internally but didn't initially show itself at the start and yes he had to cut/mod the shield ha ha. I've fixed a few of my own items by watching videos like these, saved a few quid too in doing so. I enjoy watching your videos, they're informative and educational. I really enjoy these videos. With surveillance equipment they're on 24/7 so the caps should be checked pref changed, I've replaced some in one of my camera's after it intermittently dropped connection and works 100% now. My DVR didn't come with a fan and within 2 months the Hard drive failed, bought another same thing happened though didn't fully fail it wasn't well so I used crystal disc and basically it said it had been baked. So I modified an old laptop fan to run on a usb, problem solved.
Nice 👍Yes we can all learn from each other, which is why I like this sort of stuff. I don't know everything and never will. I also make mistakes. I've just been pissing around with stuff for years so I've got a bit experience, and usually a good head for solving problems 🙂
Nichicon from AliExpress... and for that price... that'll really be from the Chinese "we silk screen print anything" company. Guaranteed to be anything but Nichicon, but so long as it works for a while. That white dust was all over a coil at the other end of the board too. Talcum powder?, rubbing down dust?, Anthrax?! Another great fix. Well done.
Thanks Mike, I did try some other more reputable suppliers first, but all of the capacitors they listed were a minimum height of 25mm which was too big. The only place I managed to find the 20mm was Aliexpress. Hopefully it lasts as long or longer than the original STGCON capacitor 👍
"One moment please...and we're back". Someone has been watching Big Clive. 😂 I just repaired a QSC power amp with blown main filter caps. They went full short before going open circuit, blowing the 25 amp mains fuse. I suspect they connected a 120v configured amp to 240v mains.😮
@@BuyitFixit I worked in cinema sound and projection have installed well over 2,000 QSC amplifiers. They are the most reliable I've found, unlike the overrated and overpriced Crown POS.
Nice work as usual - what you should have said is "I found these ones on Aliexpress that say Nichicon on them" 🤣 Also that solder sucker looks the daddy - just ordered myself one of those!
Another saved from landfill, well done. There's never enough white powder when you need some (aluminium oxide obvs). I wonder if that PSU heatsink is at some nasty voltage, hence the anti-case-shorting plastic sheet. Happy New Year to you.
Happy new year to you too Ralph. I was wondering if the PFC circuit switching that big inductor in and out could have caused the cap to fail, or if it was just a poor quality capacitor, as mains smoother failure is something I've rarely came across.
@@BuyitFixit Yes, that same cap seems to fail in a similar way in other PSUs. I was wondering about PFC harmonics, insufficient filtering, snubbing etc., though I suspect it is mainly poor quality.
Thanks 👍I'm wondering if it was just a poor quality capacitor ad the others seemed ok, or if it had something to do with HF from the PFC circuit switching the inductor in and out.
After watching your video about the peak component tester and seeing how repair focused they are, I got the ESR gold for Christmas. Pretty good little unit. Just went through my used caps bin and picked out bad ones. It's "always" the caps lol
Got to feel for Ubiquiti here. They make a good power supply with quality parts (Rubycon etc), but select one cheap Chinese cap for height reasons, that ends up causing a load of failures. Only ever as good as the weakest part! 😂
Great video as usual. Did you test the output of the power supply before you repaired it? Might be nice to see, "oh it's showing 3.5v now, that's not right." Then afterwards, seeing 24v or whatever it uses after the fix. Videos like these inspired me to fix a bad power supply in an 18 yr old monitor that now works fine!
Nice well done on fixing the monitor! Yes I forgot to measure the voltage, but I knew it wasn't right (LED was dimly lit and pulsing) so I knew there was little output there. It should supply around 48V or so for the POE.
@BuyitFixit Glad your got your Edgar Allen Poe (POE Switch) sorted. A great video. Contents appreciated as always Mick. We fancy the Capacitor Discharger. So hope to get in touch with the guy. Many Thanks & Happy New Year All Your End. Warmest Regards. Wayne, Nina, Barbara and Archie the budgie! Lol!!! Cheers 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Great video, interesting what you found in the mains cap, strange that was the issue. Maybe like you said, that plastic cover causes more harm than good. Paul, USA!!!
You must be keeping quite a stock of capacitors now, Mick? After all, 7 out of ten repairs requires a one. Another great fix though, thanks for sharing and happy 2025
Another great vid. Hope you're ready for the weather tonight. I know your neck of the woods and I know how bleak it can be (been out in it) but beautiful nonetheless.
No snow yet up here in Cumbria, but we're expecting it early morning. Before we moved here, and they had the "beast from the east" they had a helicopter dropping supplies in for people (milk etc) as it was that bad up here...
Cheers Gary 👍I'm wondering if the cap was just poor quality or if the PFC circuit switching the inductor in / out all of the time caused it to fail prematurely, as the other caps seemed to be OK which were also inside the same surround..
@ hi Mick on badcaps there’s a post if you do a search on the POE unit with the exact same problem, they’re junk capacitors the rest as seen were Rubycon, Rubycon are one of the best in my opinion, the main filter cap is a STGCON make and I think that’s half the problem, maybe they’re over rating on the temperature specs, if you still have it maybe run you thermal cam on it to see the temperature of it under load in that cage..
Thanks I've learned so much from your videos. I started ordering stuff from ebay listed as "for spares or repairs" to practice on but the parts arrive working fine. How am I supposed to practice if I cant even purchase properly broken parts on ebay! 😁
Thanks so much 👍Don't worry you're not alone! I've also experienced the same issue, where an item arrives and I can't find a fault with it. Pretty frustrating when you bought it to repair on a video 😂😂😂
Seems it would have been better to attach the plastic sheet to the bottom of the case lid. This would at least allow some sort of airflow through the heatsink. Maybe a couple millimeters. Not good by any means, but still better than none.
As you were taking this apart, I thought, 'It's going to be that big cap.' Someone else has already said, but I also saw a similar thing on the 'My Mate Vince' channel. His had failed the same way, and like you, he took the cap apart to find out why.
It's quite unusual for mains caps to fail. I've only seen it happen a few times. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the PFC circuit causing them to fail.
@@BuyitFixitIt might just be a bad brand, I mean, the name STGCON doesn't inspire confidence. I don't understand why they got Rubycon for the rest and not for the larger cap.
The large cap you took out had an insulating disc at the top of the can, I would have thought you might have wanted to take steps to insulate the top of the new can from the metal case/shield. Anyway, thanks for the video :)
Nice. And thanks for making my Saturday better again. I don't understand why the cap had to be that shape and size though. Why do they use odd sizes is what I mean.
I repaired the slightly bigger 16 port Ubiquity switch that has the exact same power supply with the exact same fault (the cap also measured 0.0uF). I was unable find a replacement with the same dimensions but I 3D printed a small box and ran some thick cable from the supply to the cap and it’s been working great ever since! At least the next replacement will be simpler if it ever needs to be done.
Mmv also fixed a ubiquity switch with the exact same fault, a faulty capacitor. Its probably just designed this way to suck even more money from consumers
@@BuyitFixit My guess with limited understanding of power supply design is that it’s a combination of poor design, poor quality and possibly heat. Thanks for the great videos, I love watching them!
Happy New Year ❤️, do similar replace main capacitors on tv sat decoders with same problem can’t find same size so put wires with shrink tube put capacitor externally
Happy new year to you too! Yes, I did think about that, but wasn't happy with the thought of a cap at mains voltage rattling around in a metal box. At least I managed to find one of the correct dimensions so it made a nice tidy job 🙂
That white powder was interesting. When you opened the cap, it appeared that there was some in there. Perhaps, somehow, the cap popped, but not in the usual way. Perhaps it hissed out the power from the bottom.
Nice fault finding and fix. Seems power supplies don't last these days as long as they used to. Some of them don't survive even the 2 year warranty period, like my cable modem external psu :D
I have the same model of switch, with the exact same failure, haven't been able to find those caps anywhere, Just ordered a pair, here's hoping it solves it for me too
That switch is one of my favorites, sad they don't make it or an updated version that can do what it did. It's great because it does both 48v PoE and 24v Passive POE. I have a number of Unifi and UISP devices that I use for jobs and the switch saves time if you are careful.
Good point, I had been thinking was it just a poor quality capacitor as the other's seemed unaffected. Also I was thinking is it something to do with the PFC circuit switching that big inductor in and out all of the time, as I've rarely seen a mains cap fail.
29 днів тому+1
These things get super hot! but are fantastic PoE switches. They don't make them any more and nothing they make is quite like it.
I was shocked that you yanked the power supply out, having not checked its output voltage, first. As it is, you got very lucky, because you started taking it apart without knowing its output status. The problem could have very well been on the main circuit board. Incredibly strange, until it occurred to me that only someone who had prior knowledge that the power supply had no output, would have skipped that very important step. Again, I was surprised to see you completely assemble the Ubiquiti switch, without first testing the power supply's output. Is all of this incredible "luck", due to the magic of video editing?
I didn't check the output, I could hear the power supply "ticking" and the output light was very dim and pulsing when it "ticked". I did disconnect the PSU from the main board just in case there was a fault / short on the main board, but the PSU light still was dim, and ticking.. So, I knew the fault was on the PSU. Hope that makes sense?
my mate vince also tried to fix a ubiquity thing, it was the same cap, inside it had burned in the connection in the center, seems to be the same powersupply as well, i think there’s more of these power supplies with these defective bad capacitors
I wonder if they used the same power supply in a number of different units. I also wonder if it's a poor quality capacitor or the PFC circuit causing them to fail. I've rarely seen a mains cap fail on a PSU.
A friend told me if you rub white powder on your gums and they go numb then "It's the good stuff" no idea what he's on about. That plastic that's over the vents could have dried that cap out prematurely, maybe, but cant have helped...Happy new year !
13:35 that white powder is probably the purest Betty White, Bolivian marching powder, white girl interrupted, Forest bump, you'll ever see, cos the one thing that is for absolute sure is the IT department is the party department...🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Had a client with that switch that failed. PSU like this. We just replaced it. My fix? I had an external 180W 48V PSU that i was able to just connect straight to the board lol. Just it in my office for quite a while and no issues.
Actually don't think I've had a bulk cap fail before, guess there's a time for everything. My last SMPS repair involved a dry joint on the transformer feedback winding, and somehow not the obviously failed output caps. That took... a while to find, to say the least. Not good for tiny orders like that, but I do recommend LCSC for cheap parts in bulk. Also a random tip: Rubycon caps are one of the few fakes you can easily spot because they never bother to copy the signature "K" vent stamp.
Yes, mains smoothers rarely fail. Was wondering if it was just a poor quality cap, or if HF or something from the PFC circuit switching the inductor in and our caused it to fail more quickly. Thanks for the K tip 👍
That's also an option 👍I'm not sure on the age of the unit, but it seems to have lasted a fair while. Hopefully with just replacing the cap it should last a whole lot longer, and probably cheaper than replacing the whole PSU.
Nice Repair! I’m wondering why you chose to desolder those couple of parts when it appeared like those couple of screws on the side of the cage appeared to be what fixed them in?
Hmmm, why not measuring the output voltage when you hear the ticking sound? And when replacing the cap why assembling the unit? What if the switching element had shorted? Did you check that?
I disconnected the PSU from the board, and the light lit up very dim, so I knew there must be a fault on the PSU. I could have measured the voltage but it seemed pretty obvious that it wasn't outputting correctly. Assembling the unit is because I'm making a video.. and if people see it working they probably wouldn't watch it put back together. If the switching element was shorted or the bridge rectifier or such, then the dim bulb tester would have lit up so I knew there wasn't any shorts. Hope that explains 🙂
It's for electrical isolation, to make sure the metal heat sink of the power supply doesn't touch the case. There's those black foam pads that are supposed to hold the plastic piece off the surface of the heat sink so that the air flow isn't blocked.
The power light may have switched to blue once it finished booting. Depending on how it's been configured it may also turn off (it's a selectable preference) It is usually possible to get to an SSH login but unless it's factory reset, you won't know the credentials (default is ubnt / ubnt). This now discontinued model by Ubiquiti was a tank and could be reliably deployed in warehouses and exterior enclosures and last near a decade.
nice job, when in doubt check the power electronics....... very poor application of that ps.......the solid plastic sheet on the top cuts off any air flow and any heat transfer to the top which cooks the components and dries out the caps. heat over time is the killer of parts and that ps was always on since it was plugged directly into the mains and by application really has to be always on. Holes in the plastic directly under holes in the top would have lessened the problem. maybe plastic mesh bonded to the inside of the cover? enjoy your videos and work, 73 Mike K1FNX near Boston, Happy New Year
@BuyitFixit industrial grade incandescent traffic lights can be found at 220 to 240 volt and 100 watts with 5 tunston filaments for around $6 U.S. dollars. Non dimmable!
We did a lot of investigation and found that the heat had no e Where to go it needs a fan. The PGA chip was the main reason for the heat, we stopped using the 8-port and changed to the 16-port. After a lot of site visits
9:45 That solder sucker is dangerous because it has no recoil protection ... What i mean with dangerous is not that it will kill you, but if you don't think before using it you can easy knock out a tooth. And back in the old days when we had CRT's it was very easy to break the neck of the tube if you didn't think twice before using it.
Thanks 👍 I'm not too sure if it's just a poor quality capacitor, as the other capacitors in there seemed OK, or if it's something to do with the power factor correction circuit switching the inductor in / out at a high frequency. I haven't experienced too many mains smoothing capacitor failures.
I have 2 Ubiquiti switches that have died, and ubiquiti dont want to replace them. I think it was storm damage, so likely a surge on one of the ports, as the one inside and one in the shed both stopped at the same time. If you were closer I'd send them to you
I muttered something like "I'd test those caps if they are marked Nichicon and from Aliexpress!" ... and you did. Sometimes I check how much video there is to run before making such rash statements, but it got the better of me today.
My guess is they are actually genuine but have been sorted out because they read on the low end.
There is a lot of stuff to be had like this on Ali. Nevertheless, these will be better what was in there.
The same here. There are a lot of fake components and I would never install that thing without testing it first.
😂😂😂👍I did nearly forget, but remembered before I soldered it in.
It is more common for the main reservoir cap to fail with active PFC.
@@FireballXL55 Yes, because active PFC does tend to stress them with high voltage, often right at the top end of the voltage range, with high ripple current all the time at high frequency, as it is operating, not the 2 times a mains cycle pulse of current
I'm running about half a dozen of these Ubiquiti switches, most of them somewhere around 8 years old by now. They've been really reliable so far, one of them is in a shed that gets baked in summer and frozen in winter yet it soldiers on like a champ running my outdoor IP cameras. Video bookmarked ready for the day one of them suffers this failure.
Nice one 👍🙂
I read those switches had heat issues. 150 watt and no fan. They finally came back into stock this summer so I bought one to have as a spare. Good to know yours have done well. Unifi doesn't have many switches that can do passive Poe. I guess I could throw a converter on and go with a 8 port pro or pro max 16. These switches come in at such a good price point and have SFP.
Just watched a video the other day by MyMateVince fixing a Ubiquiti switch (slightly larger) and it seemed to have the same powersupply with the same dodgy capacitor.. obviously a common failure.. Nice job !
MyMateVince changed almost every component on it though before coming to the capacitor :p
When I started watching this video didn't know it contains similar PSU. I found it strange the bulb didn't flash on the first plug in, so that is the first clue. If the bulb flashes 30:08 for a moment means the hot side main cap has some capacitance as it charges and the link to it is not broken.
Shake em, some even get rattly
Thanks 🙂👍
@@semiRockethr good thought !
Glad you were able to use my capacitor discharger! I hope it works well for you in any future videos.
Thanks mate👍 I was going to email you to let you know that I featured it in a video, but totally forgot!
Great bit of kit. I can’t count the number of times I’ve discharged a cap with my fingers. Normally end up either dropping or throwing the pcb😂
Haha nice but i think its way to big 😅
@@dominicwebb8000 I once launched an open laptop almost 5 meters because of a charged cap. Further repair was not necessary, but the hard disk could be saved.
Nice fix. I will admit to yelling at the screen: "Those Rubycons are fine. They rarely fail" and "That bulk cap is probably fine, they almost never fail, but yeah test it". Wow, it was open. Pretty rare. Also, "Test the new one!" A Nichicon off of Ali Express? Yeah, not surprised it measured low. I buy stuff from Ali, but not caps. Digikey all day every day. All that said, Unifi gear is worth fixing glad you got it working!
Thanks Steve, Yes they could well be fakes, but as you say they seem to get the job done. I did try a few other suppliers first, but there were none with the correct dimensions as the lowest was 25mm high.
Thanks Mick! Glad to see that you seem to be doing well again. Those switches do seem to run hot and I guess from the looks of this they suffer because of it. When you first took that cap out I wasn't convinced it was the problem, but there you go. Good clean diagnostic work and a fine result. Thanks very much for letting us look over your shoulder.
Cheers Bruce 👍🙂
I have installed those switches, and have always been amazed how hot they run, and for many years too!
Interesting, thanks for sharing 👍
Aye I have half a dozen of these Ubiquiti US-8-150W switches and they run hot enough to keep your dinner warm. Unifi reports the internal temperature on them around 67c.
When it doubt always suspect the Electrolytic Capacitors especially in network equipment since they are on constantly and many get hot do to poor air circulation. But I liked the Capacitor disassembly proof of concept of failure, that my friend was a Sherlock Holmes move. Great video as always mate.
Thank you kindly 🙂👍
Surprise, surprise...a capacitor and a specific physical size at that! The Engineer desoldering tool is fantastic and the cap dis-charger is sweet. Nichicon from AliX, good luck there. Great fix once again, always enjoy your skills. Awesome.
Thanks Terry 👍
At least you know where the white powder particles came from. 🙂
A nice, easy fix.
😂😂Thanks 👍
Bought one of those solder suckers a short while back. By far the nicest 'spring-suck' type I have ever owned..in 45 years of being in the trade.
Nice one Chris, I can't remember who suggested them, but they do seem very good!
Problem with those "engineer" suckers or any sucker is keeping it from.getting the spring stuck with solder. I just buy from Harbor Freight with 3 suckers to a pack and 2 reels of wick braid for around $9/package. Cheaper than Temu. I'm beginning to think Harbor Freight is a U.S. distributor of Temu🤔
That's weird, the ones I buy last only a few weeks as the o-rong used as a check valve on the piston geta abraided by fine aplder particles. I didn't know how yours last so long, even I clean mine regularly.
PS. My desoldering tool is the one with a silver body, a blue handle and a black plunger.
I think that is my favorite switch Ubiquiti ever made. They were pretty reliable, had an actually useful amount of poe power you didnt have to worry about using like the newer, small switches do, and had integrated 24v passive poe for connecting to UISP PtP units as well. It was a sad day when they moved to "gen 2" and removed all 24v support and cut poe budget in half
Thanks for sharing! Sounds a shame about the V2 😢
Yes , the same thing is pissing me off , they discontinue(d) the good stuff. US-16-150 US-24-250 also ... and went with passive nonsense cooling. Because noobs keep their switches in the bedroom around RGB lights ffs inside open-racks. lmao
@@GabrielKozsar That is why I'll buy a used cisco for a lot of poe ports, with 60w support too. More feature, sometimes cheaper, have 10G... Yes, i'll not have etherlight, and other fancy stuff, but my rack is not near living space, since it's a "bit" loud, especially in the summer 😂
ToughSwitch: you could park a can on top of it 😂
Great fix Clive oops I mean Mick 😁. You sound a lot better now and hope the missus is OK too 😀
Thanks Mike, yes I feel a lot better, although I've still got a bad cough /chest at the moment.
Another great fix Mick. Old habits die hard 19:36 the old screwdriver discharge tool. Happy New Year.
😂😂Thanks 👍Happy new year to you too!
Nice fix!! I do normally not suspect the big caps as faulty, but this was a good find!
Yes me either, they rarely fail. but it was the only other cap on the input side. I think either a poor quality cap, or perhaps the PFC circuit switching that inductor in / out caused it to fail prematurely, as this also happens on the output caps on SMPS.
Thank you for the autopsy on the capacitor. I learned something after 60 years in the electronic trade.
You're very welcome 👍
Enjoyed the autopsy ; getting into the guts of that cap.
Thanks 👍Glad you liked it 🙂
Yup! It’s always the capacitor 😂
Nice fix, Mick 👍🏻
Cheers mate 👍
I fixed two. It was the Bridge Rectifier ... but preventively I changed the THT (i think) diodes too.
Excellent walk through. I've got one of these switches in my rack, so the info may come in handy some day.
Thanks 👍Well when it breaks, you now know what the likely culprit is 🙂
HAI, glad to see you are back! Very excited what awaits us today. Thanks in advance and all the best for you and your wife from Germany!
Thanks mate 👍🙂
Nice work, saved from the dump. For the light on the front, it's an indentation of the status of connectivity. Flashing white is powering up. Solid white is ready for adoption, solid blue is connected to the controller, and white and blue alternating flashing is firmware update. These are the old style the new ones have screens. Nice work though.
Thanks 👍and thanks for the info. That's the problem when someone sends me something to look at, I could spend hours trying to find manuals and reading them, but I'd rather spend the time trying to repair it 😂😂😂👍
wow, a solder sucker that actually works, never thought i'd live to see the day ;-)
😂😂Indeed 👍
Nice! The big cap! MyMateVince had one of these fail in a device end of last year too, IIRC. He managed to cobble^Wbodge it together again, just as a funny experiment. And yes, he also cut the metal to fit the new cap! :D
Nice. I think I did catch that video, but normally when you see a PSU pulse or tick it's usually caps. Mains cap failure is pretty rare though. I've only seen it a few times. I'm wondering if it's just a poor quality cap, or if the PFC circuit is hammering the inductor in and out has shortened the life of it (this happens on the output caps of SMPS too).
...and not a screwdriver or hammer in sight for prising apart components like My M8 Vince..LOL...nice to see an educated person working on electronics correctly...I learn so much about circuits and what components are meant to do. Another quality YT upload...Happy New Year and keep them coming..!
Its nice seeing a professional but vince never said he is a professional at it or that he does it right, its just for his and our entertainment and he learns in the process like a lot of people do. I also learn in the process which for me is the best instead of studying out of a few million books or tutorials.
But yeah mick is a professional at it and does it properly
@@309electronics5..100%..which is why a love Vinces uploads myself..
Thanks 👍Although credit to MMV as he's the one that inspired me to start doing YT videos myself 🙂
I'm "no professional" myself. Check the video description 🙂
I don't disagree, but I have to hand it to Vince, he does lack some electronics knowledge, but he's got the balls to try, and the patience to disassemble way deeper than I would go.
I think My Mate Vince had a similar big capacitor failure where it had shorted internally but didn't initially show itself at the start and yes he had to cut/mod the shield ha ha. I've fixed a few of my own items by watching videos like these, saved a few quid too in doing so. I enjoy watching your videos, they're informative and educational. I really enjoy these videos. With surveillance equipment they're on 24/7 so the caps should be checked pref changed, I've replaced some in one of my camera's after it intermittently dropped connection and works 100% now. My DVR didn't come with a fan and within 2 months the Hard drive failed, bought another same thing happened though didn't fully fail it wasn't well so I used crystal disc and basically it said it had been baked. So I modified an old laptop fan to run on a usb, problem solved.
Nice 👍Yes we can all learn from each other, which is why I like this sort of stuff. I don't know everything and never will. I also make mistakes. I've just been pissing around with stuff for years so I've got a bit experience, and usually a good head for solving problems 🙂
Great video again, thanks! Very interesting to see the inside of that capacitor as well.
Thanks 🙂👍
Perfect timing I'm ready to relax before bed
Nice 👍Hope you enjoy 🙂
Great video..... 😊 it's good to see dead electronic get alive... Thank you for posting....
Thank you 👍
Happy new year Mick. Hope you and yours are all doing a bit better now - you definitely sound a fair bit improved!!!
Thanks mate, Happy new year. Still got a bit of the sniffles and a chesty cough. You probably heard it on the video 🙂
Nichicon from AliExpress... and for that price... that'll really be from the Chinese "we silk screen print anything" company. Guaranteed to be anything but Nichicon, but so long as it works for a while. That white dust was all over a coil at the other end of the board too. Talcum powder?, rubbing down dust?, Anthrax?! Another great fix. Well done.
Thanks Mike, I did try some other more reputable suppliers first, but all of the capacitors they listed were a minimum height of 25mm which was too big. The only place I managed to find the 20mm was Aliexpress. Hopefully it lasts as long or longer than the original STGCON capacitor 👍
@@BuyitFixit It's almost certainly the same capacitor.
"One moment please...and we're back". Someone has been watching Big Clive. 😂 I just repaired a QSC power amp with blown main filter caps. They went full short before going open circuit, blowing the 25 amp mains fuse. I suspect they connected a 120v configured amp to 240v mains.😮
Just as long as Mick doesn't start tearing down pink fleshy things and drawing circuit diagrams I suspect he'll be okay. 🙂
😂😂😂I remember QSC used to work at a place that sold DJ equipment back in the day..
I have drawn the odd circuit diagram 🙂 or part. I think it was on one of the Dyson fans. I'll scour eBay for some pink personal massagers 😂😂😂😂
@@BuyitFixit I worked in cinema sound and projection have installed well over 2,000 QSC amplifiers. They are the most reliable I've found, unlike the overrated and overpriced Crown POS.
Nice work as usual - what you should have said is "I found these ones on Aliexpress that say Nichicon on them" 🤣 Also that solder sucker looks the daddy - just ordered myself one of those!
Thanks 👍Yes indeed. You never know what you're getting. Although hopefully they're as good as STGCON
Interesting to see inside the cap. Looked like that contact had been broken for a while.
@@chrisbartlett6022 Yes, it even looked quite corroded too.
Another saved from landfill, well done. There's never enough white powder when you need some (aluminium oxide obvs). I wonder if that PSU heatsink is at some nasty voltage, hence the anti-case-shorting plastic sheet. Happy New Year to you.
Happy new year to you too Ralph. I was wondering if the PFC circuit switching that big inductor in and out could have caused the cap to fail, or if it was just a poor quality capacitor, as mains smoother failure is something I've rarely came across.
@@BuyitFixit Yes, that same cap seems to fail in a similar way in other PSUs. I was wondering about PFC harmonics, insufficient filtering, snubbing etc., though I suspect it is mainly poor quality.
Nice work, I would have suspected one of the two bootstrap caps as well vs the mains cap which rarely go bad
Thanks 👍I'm wondering if it was just a poor quality capacitor ad the others seemed ok, or if it had something to do with HF from the PFC circuit switching the inductor in and out.
Thank you for posting Mick
Cheers Neil 👍
Perfect timining mate and happy new year 🎉🎉
Thanks 👍Happy new year to you too!
After watching your video about the peak component tester and seeing how repair focused they are, I got the ESR gold for Christmas. Pretty good little unit. Just went through my used caps bin and picked out bad ones. It's "always" the caps lol
Nice 👍and well done for supporting a British company 🙂
CSI Capacitor. Love it
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Got to feel for Ubiquiti here. They make a good power supply with quality parts (Rubycon etc), but select one cheap Chinese cap for height reasons, that ends up causing a load of failures.
Only ever as good as the weakest part! 😂
Indeed. I was thinking either cheap cap, or possibly something to do with the PFC circuit, as mains caps rarely fail in general.
Great video as usual. Did you test the output of the power supply before you repaired it? Might be nice to see, "oh it's showing 3.5v now, that's not right." Then afterwards, seeing 24v or whatever it uses after the fix. Videos like these inspired me to fix a bad power supply in an 18 yr old monitor that now works fine!
Nice well done on fixing the monitor! Yes I forgot to measure the voltage, but I knew it wasn't right (LED was dimly lit and pulsing) so I knew there was little output there. It should supply around 48V or so for the POE.
@BuyitFixit
Glad your got your Edgar Allen Poe (POE Switch) sorted.
A great video. Contents appreciated as always Mick.
We fancy the Capacitor Discharger. So hope to get in touch with the guy.
Many Thanks & Happy New Year All Your End.
Warmest Regards.
Wayne, Nina, Barbara and Archie the budgie! Lol!!!
Cheers
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
Cheers Guys 👍Happy new year to you too!
@BuyitFixit
Blimey! That was quick, have you not gone to bed yet lad(?)
Bless You.
😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😯😊😊😊😊😊❤️❤️❤️
Great video, interesting what you found in the mains cap, strange that was the issue. Maybe like you said, that plastic cover causes more harm than good.
Paul, USA!!!
Cheers Paul 👍
You must be keeping quite a stock of capacitors now, Mick? After all, 7 out of ten repairs requires a one. Another great fix though, thanks for sharing and happy 2025
😂😂Cheers Brian, and happy new year to you too!
Another great vid. Hope you're ready for the weather tonight. I know your neck of the woods and I know how bleak it can be (been out in it) but beautiful nonetheless.
I'm considerably south of Mick (M4) and the snow is hitting hard. We were forecast the liquid stuff.
@@georgeprout42 You got it first, it's coming down here hard now.
No snow yet up here in Cumbria, but we're expecting it early morning. Before we moved here, and they had the "beast from the east" they had a helicopter dropping supplies in for people (milk etc) as it was that bad up here...
Hi Mick great fix, heat is definitely the issue there not much ventilation, the cap is surrounded by heat it should have a small fan in there really 😊
Cheers Gary 👍I'm wondering if the cap was just poor quality or if the PFC circuit switching the inductor in / out all of the time caused it to fail prematurely, as the other caps seemed to be OK which were also inside the same surround..
@ hi Mick on badcaps there’s a post if you do a search on the POE unit with the exact same problem, they’re junk capacitors the rest as seen were Rubycon, Rubycon are one of the best in my opinion, the main filter cap is a STGCON make and I think that’s half the problem, maybe they’re over rating on the temperature specs, if you still have it maybe run you thermal cam on it to see the temperature of it under load in that cage..
Thanks mate, I've just posted it back earlier today..
@ dam lol, hope you both are on the mend now you sound a little better
Thanks I've learned so much from your videos. I started ordering stuff from ebay listed as "for spares or repairs" to practice on but the parts arrive working fine. How am I supposed to practice if I cant even purchase properly broken parts on ebay! 😁
Thanks so much 👍Don't worry you're not alone! I've also experienced the same issue, where an item arrives and I can't find a fault with it. Pretty frustrating when you bought it to repair on a video 😂😂😂
ha ! toujours le condensateur,always.. good job boss !
Thanks 👍🙂
You have great repairs and the video quality is nice to watch. Is that a t210 or t245 soldering iron?
Thanks 👍 Aixun t245 🙂
@@BuyitFixit Thanks for the reply.
Great! They have made large ventilation slots in the power supply unit so that it is easier to tape them shut. LoL
I guess plastic sheet on power supply is there to avoid one or both heatsink to connect with metal case if pressed or shortcircuit between heatsinks.
@@jendak7921 that doesn't change the design flaw
Seems it would have been better to attach the plastic sheet to the bottom of the case lid. This would at least allow some sort of airflow through the heatsink. Maybe a couple millimeters. Not good by any means, but still better than none.
Heya, Happy new year. good you messuerd the diameter and hight of that cap because you have so many differant 1's well done
Thanks mate 👍Happy new year to you too!
As you were taking this apart, I thought, 'It's going to be that big cap.' Someone else has already said, but I also saw a similar thing on the 'My Mate Vince' channel. His had failed the same way, and like you, he took the cap apart to find out why.
It's quite unusual for mains caps to fail. I've only seen it happen a few times. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the PFC circuit causing them to fail.
@@BuyitFixitIt might just be a bad brand, I mean, the name STGCON doesn't inspire confidence. I don't understand why they got Rubycon for the rest and not for the larger cap.
The large cap you took out had an insulating disc at the top of the can, I would have thought you might have wanted to take steps to insulate the top of the new can from the metal case/shield. Anyway, thanks for the video :)
I never spotted that. Good shout 👍
👍👍👍👍 Nice troubleshooting mate.
Thanks mate 👍
Happy New Year! 🎆 to you and Family 😊
Happy new year to you too!
Happy new year🥳
Thanks 👍Happy new year to you too!
Nice. And thanks for making my Saturday better again.
I don't understand why the cap had to be that shape and size though. Why do they use odd sizes is what I mean.
Thanks 👍Not sure. I think the PSU was made by another company and not Ubiquiti.
That Japanese desolder tool is great, works for me almost two years No issues easy to clean and almost cero maintenance Highly recommended ..
Yes I like it, I can't remember who recommended it but it was someone in the comments 🙂👍
Another great video, thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it🙂👍
I repaired the slightly bigger 16 port Ubiquity switch that has the exact same power supply with the exact same fault (the cap also measured 0.0uF). I was unable find a replacement with the same dimensions but I 3D printed a small box and ran some thick cable from the supply to the cap and it’s been working great ever since! At least the next replacement will be simpler if it ever needs to be done.
Mmv also fixed a ubiquity switch with the exact same fault, a faulty capacitor. Its probably just designed this way to suck even more money from consumers
I'm wondering if it's just a poor quality cap, or if HF from the PFC circuit switching the inductor feeding it, caused it to fail prematurely.
@@BuyitFixit My guess with limited understanding of power supply design is that it’s a combination of poor design, poor quality and possibly heat. Thanks for the great videos, I love watching them!
Happy New Year ❤️, do similar replace main capacitors on tv sat decoders with same problem can’t find same size so put wires with shrink tube put capacitor externally
Happy new year to you too! Yes, I did think about that, but wasn't happy with the thought of a cap at mains voltage rattling around in a metal box. At least I managed to find one of the correct dimensions so it made a nice tidy job 🙂
Seems as though the hardest part was getting the cover off🤣. Nice troubleshooting...
Thanks 👍😂😂😂Yes it's usually the "case" 😂😂😂
That white powder was interesting. When you opened the cap, it appeared that there was some in there.
Perhaps, somehow, the cap popped, but not in the usual way. Perhaps it hissed out the power from the bottom.
Possibly, I'm not sure if it was just dust? Or perhaps the IT team had a wild party 😂😂
Cmon Mick, you can repair that cap😂
White powder, never go high on your own power supply
😂😂😂👍
It's a handy switch (if you have some Ubiquiti AirMax devices in the mix) that can do both 24v passive PoE and standard PoE.
Yes a couple of people have mentioned that it does both 24 and 48v which is pretty cool!
Nice fix!
Thanks mate 👍🙂
Nice fault finding and fix.
Seems power supplies don't last these days as long as they used to. Some of them don't survive even the 2 year warranty period, like my cable modem external psu :D
Thanks MrJSV 👍
I have the same model of switch, with the exact same failure, haven't been able to find those caps anywhere, Just ordered a pair, here's hoping it solves it for me too
Hopefully it does 👍
Great job.
Thanks 👍🙂
That switch is one of my favorites, sad they don't make it or an updated version that can do what it did. It's great because it does both 48v PoE and 24v Passive POE. I have a number of Unifi and UISP devices that I use for jobs and the switch saves time if you are careful.
Yes sounds a useful switch. I didn't know it did 24v and 48v. Thanks for sharing 👍
Of all issues that may arise, seeing Surgery of large 'smoothing' capacitor, Adds to reasoning of test results. *Thanks*
Thanks mate 👍
Good choice, there's a lot of these out there
great job well done
Thank you 👍
@@BuyitFixit no thank You :)
electrolytic capacitors are heat sensitive , that Power supply enclosure with heatsink acts as an oven baking them slowly .
Good point, I had been thinking was it just a poor quality capacitor as the other's seemed unaffected. Also I was thinking is it something to do with the PFC circuit switching that big inductor in and out all of the time, as I've rarely seen a mains cap fail.
These things get super hot! but are fantastic PoE switches. They don't make them any more and nothing they make is quite like it.
Thanks for sharing 👍
The esr meter has the ability to measure from 0.3uf to 90000uf. If you see measuring for component, it means its bad.
Thanks for that 👍
Vince had the exact same thing in...... a Ubiquity PoE switch.
Interesting. I wonder if the cause is just a poor quality capacitor, or if it's something to do with the PFC circuit.
I was shocked that you yanked the power supply out, having not checked its output voltage, first. As it is, you got very lucky, because you started taking it apart without knowing its output status. The problem could have very well been on the main circuit board. Incredibly strange, until it occurred to me that only someone who had prior knowledge that the power supply had no output, would have skipped that very important step. Again, I was surprised to see you completely assemble the Ubiquiti switch, without first testing the power supply's output. Is all of this incredible "luck", due to the magic of video editing?
I didn't check the output, I could hear the power supply "ticking" and the output light was very dim and pulsing when it "ticked". I did disconnect the PSU from the main board just in case there was a fault / short on the main board, but the PSU light still was dim, and ticking.. So, I knew the fault was on the PSU. Hope that makes sense?
my mate vince also tried to fix a ubiquity thing, it was the same cap, inside it had burned in the connection in the center, seems to be the same powersupply as well, i think there’s more of these power supplies with these defective bad capacitors
I wonder if they used the same power supply in a number of different units. I also wonder if it's a poor quality capacitor or the PFC circuit causing them to fail. I've rarely seen a mains cap fail on a PSU.
A friend told me if you rub white powder on your gums and they go numb then "It's the good stuff" no idea what he's on about. That plastic that's over the vents could have dried that cap out prematurely, maybe, but cant have helped...Happy new year !
😂😂😂Happy new year Andymouse 👍
13:35 that white powder is probably the purest Betty White, Bolivian marching powder, white girl interrupted, Forest bump, you'll ever see, cos the one thing that is for absolute sure is the IT department is the party department...🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
😂😂😂😂👍I'll ask Hunter Biden to check..
Had a client with that switch that failed. PSU like this. We just replaced it. My fix? I had an external 180W 48V PSU that i was able to just connect straight to the board lol. Just it in my office for quite a while and no issues.
Yes that also would work 👍I did similar with a Starlink Router, as the PSU had a chip on it that has to be programmed.
Actually don't think I've had a bulk cap fail before, guess there's a time for everything. My last SMPS repair involved a dry joint on the transformer feedback winding, and somehow not the obviously failed output caps. That took... a while to find, to say the least.
Not good for tiny orders like that, but I do recommend LCSC for cheap parts in bulk. Also a random tip: Rubycon caps are one of the few fakes you can easily spot because they never bother to copy the signature "K" vent stamp.
Yes, mains smoothers rarely fail. Was wondering if it was just a poor quality cap, or if HF or something from the PFC circuit switching the inductor in and our caused it to fail more quickly. Thanks for the K tip 👍
Cute little solder sucker that really sucks literally. 😭 Applying fresh solder first, is key to getting things done quick.
Yes indeed 👍
Ah ubiquitu power supplies. Step one is always to replace them with a Meanwell!
That's also an option 👍I'm not sure on the age of the unit, but it seems to have lasted a fair while. Hopefully with just replacing the cap it should last a whole lot longer, and probably cheaper than replacing the whole PSU.
Nice Repair!
I’m wondering why you chose to desolder those couple of parts when it appeared like those couple of screws on the side of the cage appeared to be what fixed them in?
@@DavoShed Thanks 👍The screws go into nuts on the other side of the components.
Hmmm, why not measuring the output voltage when you hear the ticking sound? And when replacing the cap why assembling the unit? What if the switching element had shorted? Did you check that?
I disconnected the PSU from the board, and the light lit up very dim, so I knew there must be a fault on the PSU. I could have measured the voltage but it seemed pretty obvious that it wasn't outputting correctly. Assembling the unit is because I'm making a video.. and if people see it working they probably wouldn't watch it put back together. If the switching element was shorted or the bridge rectifier or such, then the dim bulb tester would have lit up so I knew there wasn't any shorts. Hope that explains 🙂
@BuyitFixit Ah, ok, that explains it. I think This shows your experience. I would be checking and double checking over and over 😉
Great video 😊 the caps from aliexpress always far off in tolerance in have a full box here next time i dont buy them there anymore.
Thanks 👍I originally looked at other suppliers, but none of them had 20mm high, they were all 25mm. The only place I could find them was ALiExpress.
@BuyitFixit yea some times you need to buy there. They also sell allot off fake chips but ok haha
Why did they put a plastic sheet over the power supply vent holes i didn't see a fan on the unit? Maybe make it fail faster?
I'm not too sure, I thought it was slightly odd too.
It's for electrical isolation, to make sure the metal heat sink of the power supply doesn't touch the case. There's those black foam pads that are supposed to hold the plastic piece off the surface of the heat sink so that the air flow isn't blocked.
The power light may have switched to blue once it finished booting. Depending on how it's been configured it may also turn off (it's a selectable preference) It is usually possible to get to an SSH login but unless it's factory reset, you won't know the credentials (default is ubnt / ubnt).
This now discontinued model by Ubiquiti was a tank and could be reliably deployed in warehouses and exterior enclosures and last near a decade.
Interesting. I wasn't sure if it was just a "dumb" switch but I guess not.
The power light stays white when it's in standalone mode. Once it's adopted and managed by a Ubiquiti controller it turns blue.
Good work. 👍🤗🤗
Your coffee will be awaiting you ☕️
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
nice job, when in doubt check the power electronics....... very poor application of that ps.......the solid plastic sheet on the top cuts off any air flow and any heat transfer to the top which cooks the components and dries out the caps. heat over time is the killer of parts and that ps was always on since it was plugged directly into the mains and by application really has to be always on. Holes in the plastic directly under holes in the top would have lessened the problem. maybe plastic mesh bonded to the inside of the cover? enjoy your videos and work, 73 Mike K1FNX near Boston, Happy New Year
Thanks Mike 👍
isn't the plastic sheet to prevent the metal outer casing making contact ?
Could well be 👍
Wow! Enjoyed the necropsy😊
Is your dim bulb 50 watts?
Thanks 👍100w, I struggled to find them, but picked some up at a car boot sale a while ago 🙂
@BuyitFixit industrial grade incandescent traffic lights can be found at 220 to 240 volt and 100 watts with 5 tunston filaments for around $6 U.S. dollars. Non dimmable!
@BuyitFixit also, "bug lights" are incandescent and not dimmable in 40, 60, and 100 watts
We did a lot of investigation and found that the heat had no e
Where to go it needs a fan. The PGA chip was the main reason for the heat, we stopped using the 8-port and changed to the 16-port. After a lot of site visits
Interesting. Thank you for sharing 👍
9:45 That solder sucker is dangerous because it has no recoil protection ...
What i mean with dangerous is not that it will kill you, but if you don't think before using it you can easy knock out a tooth.
And back in the old days when we had CRT's it was very easy to break the neck of the tube if you didn't think twice before using it.
Ah see what you mean. I'd probably have to be pretty close to it to knock out a tooth though!
Nice work! I think i saw similar problem in one of My Mate Vince videos, is it manufacturing fault or it’s common in this type of capacitors?
Thanks 👍 I'm not too sure if it's just a poor quality capacitor, as the other capacitors in there seemed OK, or if it's something to do with the power factor correction circuit switching the inductor in / out at a high frequency. I haven't experienced too many mains smoothing capacitor failures.
Rule: Test the component first. New doesn't mean good. Auto parts taught me that.
Good advice 👍🙂
How do you find yourself with the aixun station, how would you compare it to a hakko/weller or a yihua soldering station ?
I like the Aixun, but I've not used the other stations so can't really comment on them.
I have 2 Ubiquiti switches that have died, and ubiquiti dont want to replace them. I think it was storm damage, so likely a surge on one of the ports, as the one inside and one in the shed both stopped at the same time. If you were closer I'd send them to you
I guess you're not in the UK then? Unfortunately the price of shipping to the UK and back is quite expensive.