Perfect timing, I just dusted of the old E5+ and brought it out of retirement. I'm still using your firmware from before but it's nice to have a little refresher.
So great to see a new video from you for this Ender 5plus. Does this firmware work for the V2.2.1 silent board? Thank you for all you do for the 3d printing community!
Please can you advise? I have been running an old version of Marlin and all is working OK> Should I upgrade to the latest firmwares? Was also considering a direct drive but not 100% sure I should change Ive learned: if it aint broke, dont try to fix it..! What are the benefits please? thank you
I agree with you! If it's working well, don't risk messing it up. Keep going with what you have. This is mainly for people having problems or needing to make changes.
i am about to put my ender 5 plus in the bin , was doing the update with creality soft wear there way and ended up with a machine stuck on the startup and nothing else , i followed this to the letter , please help regards Sketch uses 133356 bytes (52%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253952 bytes. Global variables use 6811 bytes (83%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1381 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8192 bytes. avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1
That means your computer is not communicating with your board and is timing out. If your computer is not creating a COM port properly when plugged into the printer, there's an error with the connection or it's possible the board is bad or has a damaged bootloader.
I was also curious if you have ever heard of the Jyers firmware for the ender v2? If you have, Is there any other firmware available like that for the Ender 5 plus? I am interested in maybe finding a better firmware for the ender 5 plus. Do you know of any other firmware that gives more options? I guess I could have just started by asking that! LOL
I've tried to flash the firmware with three different sd cards (all correctly formatted and with the designated firmware files) and it doesn't seems to read any of them. Any idea why could it be happening?
Not sure if u can help me or not but I took bad pictures and can’t remember where the black connector wire goes that has the 3 wires that are orange, black and red and not sure of the direction. Your videos are too notch, i just successfully loaded the screen firmware on a 32 gig card I formatted to 8 gig thanks to this video!
I appreciate it. Sorry to not have a more direct answer but see if you can figure out which wire it is in this video: ua-cam.com/video/cAI0H4e6Usg/v-deo.htmlsi=NRtqJPcev_xaqkwX
@@kerseyfabs yessir thats the one! Unfortunately the bed still stops way far from the extruder. I may have had it in the wrong place at first and messed it up, gonna try a new board. Thank you for your help and videos!
so following this video my screen was unresponsive, i used your firmware update fir the screen and its not in chinese but responsive, how do i get it back to english lol
hi again, when attempting to do pid autotune of the hotbed ,this is the message I get ..PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number. I assume this is a setting in marlin that has to to changed ?(with the arduino software) but Im getting lost with how to do this .Can you suggest anything ? Thankyou again
The low memory error is weird but shouldn't be a problem. The read error could mean a communications problem (bad USB cable?) or it could mean the flash memory on your board is bad.
HI I was wondering if you can give some guidance. I appreciate the video and it was perfect for the most part. I was able to follow it flawlessly. Everything seemed perfect until I started checking this manually. As i manually controlled the X,Y Z function I couldn't get it to move at all in +X at all. I restarted and tried 2 times. I tried auto leveling and this was worse as it went back then moved forward and left instead of right. I shut it down as it hit as i didn't want it to get damaged of course. Any guidance would be appreciated. Its all factory parts and software.
The only thing that comes to mind is that you have to home to move right first. I would suspect you've done that though. Can you print? Does it move right during prints?
@@kerseyfabs OK so i decided to swap cables around for X & Y and it worked but of course backwards. I put back and everything is working correctly now. It will now home correctly. IDK maybe a dirty connection on one of the wires perhaps. Pretty weird. Just wanted to update incase someone else gets this weird issue. "This ended up being a loss pin in the motor connection side of the plug. Not sure how but replaced that motor and everything is perfect" Loose connections and pins are way more common than i realized with this guys.
Im honestly having the worst time trying to get firmware stuff done on marlin even trying to get your binaries to work on the skr mini E3. I was following the tutorial on your other videos but somehow Im getting stuck. Clearly an issue between chair and keyboard lol. but help would be greatly appreciated. Its all that darn BL touch POS thats giving me trouble.
@@kerseyfabs awesome. Basically it flips out and says unable to level bed. I bought a new cable and tried to verify pin/cable order for it. Maybe I have something wrong with that. Might be worth doing a segment on the cable order on the back of the BL touch because all the wire colors are different depending on what cable you purchase for it.
Question: 1st time 3D printer owners here, so glad to have found your channel! Still working on installing it. Thank you for the BLTouch firmware! It was installed correctly. However the language keeps switching to Chinese after switching the printer off. Is there a more permanent solution to keep it in English?
@@kerseyfabs trying different solutions we could find online, the screen is now stuck, and will only respond if you click on settings, everything else is frozen.
After following video guide, my Ender 5+ "pause and restart" doesn't restart at the right spot resulting in cancelled/stopped print. Any suggestions to make it restart at the same position.
@@kerseyfabs Did your printer correctly resume printing after powering off or pausing print? Any suggestions on how to fix it so that it does, specifically after dynamically adjusting the Z-offset.
I've just given my Ender 5 Plus a custom print head that has an E3D v6 hotend. Now that it's all wired I can't get it up to temp - setting it to go to 250C it slowly goes up to around 130C than says heating failed bla bla bla. Doing a PID tune via pronterface it again slowly goes up to around the same temperature, than the temp reading jumps over 350C and the autotune stops. I think I just need to somehow tell the printer in the firmware what it now has to deal with, I just don't know how. P. S. it's running a silent board and your firmware at the moment
I've already figured it out. The thermistor type has to be changed to 5 in the firmware, wich corresponds to the thermistor used in the E3D v6 hotend. I wouldn't have gotten here without your video though, so thank you very much!
My comment did not make it, so doing it a second time differently. I did make an updated version of DGUS reloaded for the screen. You can install latest Marlin 2.1 bugfix and get MPC for the hot-end, linear advance and more. My version of DGUS has been made the default one for ender 5 plus, so easy to find from the Marlin template for Ender 5 plus. With my reinforced ender 5 plus and micro-swiss direct drive, custom head you can find under my name on thingeverse, I print at 100 mm/sec with high quality.
Hey! I was testing some of the DGUS alternatives but never found one that worked 100%, so I abandoned it. Can you link to me where yours is for testing?
@@velo555 I did not have the silent board and the beginning, but I replaced it with the silent one. For the settings, I did put the steppers to around 0.8V to begin, then I push them to 1.2V for extrudeur, 1.0 for Y and if I remember well 0.9V for X. The goal is to make the drives hot but not warm (I would says around 40/50°C) to have the max current in them without risk. But it is needed if you want to have high speed and strong acceleration, so a reinforced Ender 5 Plus.
@@RodrikStudio Sorry, I meant to ask if the silent board had different stepper drivers specified in the configuration.h file as compared to the non silent board.
fantastic video and tutorial, was having so many issues, the firmware update has solved so many, one thing though the extruder does not home to the center of the bed but 3/4 to the right of the bed, can't figure out how to get it centered, please help a noob !!
@@kerseyfabs Yeah I had done that part to no avail BUT! I did look up the Chinese Symbol for "language" and was able to find it pretty quickly in the settings. Just shifted it English and then off to the races. Downloading your Simple Test pattern now to work on the bed leveling. You have great reference videos and the fact that you responded got you a life long follower. I appreciate it!
Great video !! but still new to this .Have updated using your soft/firmware .However no I have no bltouch/autolevel .Bl touch will power up and self test .I get this message through prontoface when I send command m420s SENDING:M420S Error:Failed to enable Bed Leveling Any ideas ??? huge thanks in advance
I have a Ender5plus and followed your steps. I recently installed a silent mother board and trying going through your process but Arduino is saying “stk500vs_RecieveMessage(): timeout” anyway I can resolve this? also what would the board be called if I put a different board in. Thanks
Do you think it's better to use this firmware or and skr 1.4 turbo with the firmware you mentioned in another video? I followed that tutorial (the skr one with tmc 2208 drivers) but my printer stutters in movements and it really doesn't work but I can't fix it for the life of me
So after upgrading the firmware the printer thinks its 357 degrees while it should be room temp. I also changed the hot end out before I did the firmware upgrade. Could I of messed up the thermistor/cable or does that sound like a firmware issue? I also get an error when reuploading the firmware. (saying arduino IDE timeout)
I upgraded to the Creality Drict Drive and it says in the instructions too "On the printer controller, navigate to Control -> Motion ->Steps/mm, and adjust the Esteps/mm value to 424.9. Then navigate back to the Control menu, select Store Settings, and hit Enter to save the setting." I can't find where to set the Esteps in the firmware to set it to 424.9. Also; On another subject, what changes have you made to your /Ender5 Plus and what changes have you made in the firmware?
I just got 5 plus, so I used your firmware upgrade but I'm having a problem with the bl touch. The bl touch cycle's correctly. but it will not deploy on homing and cause the nozzle to crash into the bed. Its a V 3.1 i have done all the normal things to get it working, cleaning and ect. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Couple questions for you. I am running a relatively stock ender 5 plus other then a direct drive setup with octopi. Would you recommend at very least updating the firmware to fix the wrong probe locations? Second question I know you have swapped boards out on other ender 5 plus. Would you say it is worth the change or are the changes not that big? I’m debating on setting up a SKR 3.
I have an ender 5 plus and it printed good yesterday but know it won't home correctly. the bed goes down not up. I have a new touch prob coming in on 8/17/2024, but what do I do if it doesn't work. please help me I am afraid to download a new firmware for it. Also, I have an ender 3 pro and I thank that I used the STL card on the ender 5 plus could be that the problem. If so, how do I fix that. please help me out.
Absolutely amazing and helpful. Everyone that is having problems, be sure you are following the instructions step by step and using the firmware file links in the description and not the firmware links through creality. Thanks!
hi kris, I sent an email to you as requested, in relation to the direction problem I am having with my ender 5 plus. I haven't received a response as yet. I have been unable to find a solution to the problem of the hotbed moving down instead of up when levelling. PLEASE ,PLEASE , PLEASE can you give me help in resolving this. I am unable to use my machine until it is sorted.
Hey I did the DWIN set and my ender5 reverts to Chinese any ideas? I'm running V2.2 8bit 2560 I got it figured out I only did step 1 out of 2 Rookie mistake
i am trying to change the thermister temp settings in arduino ide 2.3.2 does anyone know what thermister temp (i.e. thermister_o 1 etc). i also changed the max temp but it doesnt change nor go to the temp of 295c that i am trying to reach. i have not tried to print anything yet. i have an all metal hotend along with an upgraded thermistor. flashed the display screen as done in the video, now stuck on temps. any help appreciated!
Thank You God send! I was about to give up on my Hemera XS ever reaching full temp the videos I was following have out of date links and info. I do hope I can search through the code of the Screen to adjust the UI temps as well.
I purchased an ender 5 plus from my buddy. It was sitting in his closet, brand new, still in the box for about 3 or 4 years. Anyway, I set it up and ran it on the firmware that was on it. So, it was old firmware but it worked for me...Until it didn't. lol! It started dropping the bed like 100mm and then try to automatic bed level. I figured the firmware was bad and decided to change it. I added the DWIN file to the screen and that's when all hell broke loose! I tried to update the firmware using the slicer and it wasn't reading it. I am guessing after watching your video that it was not a data cable, however, it was the blue cable that came with the printer...so I don't know. Anyway, I am going to try and do it all over again and try ordering a data cable from Amazon as well as use the files you provided. By the way, When I updated the screen firmware with that DWIN file, I remember seeing all the images load. It also said end just like yours did. When I turned it off and back on, I just get this: 19 0 both in the bottom left and right corners of the screen and nothing else. It doesn't do anything. It just displays that. Any suggestions? I appreciate you and all your help!
I have an ender 5 plus that I'm having trouble with one low area of my bed, looking through your source code if I change the grid max points on line 898 it'll do a finer mesh, correct?
I went through all the steps and my display is in Chinese or Japanese. I am using the blue cord that came with the printer to upload. I'm not sure if that is what is causing the issue.
@craigyost626 go into the Configuration.h file and search LANG then you will find where you can define your language. This should be around line 1200 of code. There will be a greyed out line of code that reads //#define LCD_LANGUAGE en. If you want it to be in english just delete the two // in that line of text. If you want a different language then look a few lines of code above and find your desired language.
No me funciona, hago todos los pasos pero después de instalar todo y cuando quiero hacer el alineado central el cabezal me lo pone 10 centimetros hacia la izquierda. Y si actualizo el bltouch con otra version me funciona en el centro pero me dejan de funcinar muchas funciones del lcd y me hace falla de sistema con el idioma chino.
I got a new silentboard and the thermal keeps changing up and down. After a half hour it will get a thermal runaway but it's not nozzle wires. Jumps from 220, 169, 202, 223.
Thanks so much for this video! My printer has been out of service for a little while and this seems to have fixed the problem. It kept reverting to Chinese text but now it it stays in English.
The LCD firmware in your Google Drive reverts the LCD screen to chinese. Even after setting the language function, it continues to go back to chinese characters. Can you verify your LCD firmware, as well as the GitHUB motherboard update? The Creality LCD update is worse... btw. any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have verified this version myself and so have others. NOTE: You must pair the display update with the board firmware. The Chinese character set bug occurs when the two versions get out of sync. If it starts up in Chinese, you should be able to switch it back and it should stay.
@@kerseyfabs Tried it on two different laptop and a desktop all windows machines, all froze up at different points in the folder loading process, one laptop has been attempting to load for over 20 hours.
I'm really sorry to hear that. It's hard for me to debug random issues with software though. I do my best to just provide straight-forward instructions.
Hello, any chance you can produce a video for installing a silent board that has only one Z motor connector? I have followed another video by A M P on how to setup the board and the correct changes needed. I then followed this tutorial for the firmware process and I am having issues with the firmware uploading. My computer does recognize the printer and seems to be just fine. But I get an error of can not upload firmware. Any idea what I could be doing wrong.
Little background on why I am curious is the 4.2.2 board from creality is super hard to get. But the 4.2.7 board is readily available. I have two ender 5 plus printers, the first one I am running the 4.2.2 that I got a year ago. My second printer was all stock I picked up dirt cheap from a friend. Anyways I am trying to get it running like my first one on the sonic pad. It's not going as planned.
I like using VSCode better. Not a huge Microsoft fan boy but they really put a lot of effort into there IDE. Anyways, thanks for a great tutorial, just what I needed! Keep up the great work.
So just to be sure , this is the most updated Creality release? I just did this process and even changed my basic temp setups for preheating purposes, this has been a great help. I was one of those people that couldn't read Chinese so I had to revert back to the earlier software release.
Lovely content ! I have got a Creality Spider Pro Hotend, which comes with a different thermistor suitable for 300 Deg C. Is there a way to modify the original firmware and adjust the Max Temp and thermistor settings (if needed)? Thank you for the shared support !
I updated the firmware with your file, but now I have two issues: The nozzle temperature setting is not being set by the G-code file. I have to adjust it manually before printing. The Power Loss Recovery function is not accurate. After a power failure, there is an offset in the Y-axis. Please help me resolve these issues.
Hi, After following your video, I successfully uploaded the screen DWIN_SET from an 8GB SD card, and removed it when it showed END. I successfully uploaded the firmware using arduino, but the screen is stuck on the flash screen with the loading bar at the bottom, not moving. Can you suggest anything to get round this. I have a stock display and a Creality v2.2 silent board. Regards, Mike
Have you unplugged from the computer and turned the printer off and back on again? When you flashed the display, did it show all of the correct counts?
@@kerseyfabs Hi, Yes the file count is exact match. Turned off, removed the SD card, unplugged from computer. Turned back on, thats when the frozen screen appeared
@@kerseyfabs Hi, Got no errors when flashing. Finally got a screen to work. Fired up the machine and when I selected Home, the X and Y centred but the bed lowered instead of raising the z to the probe. Any ideas what could be causing this. I know all of the connections are firmly in place. Could I have the 3 pin connector of the probe the wrong way round on the board? ( there are no prompts on it to identify the live, and Creality are notorious for changing the wiring colours depending what they have to hand). Regards ,Mike?
I just went through your process, and after 8 months, my Ender 5 Plus is closer to printing again. The only thing not working so far is the leveling and the BL Touch. When I home it, it digs the nozzle into the PEI sheet. Once I turn it off and lower the bed and go to leveling, it goes into position, lowers the bed and then just stays there. It doesn't bring the bed up so I can get a measurement and proceed. If you can help me, I'll be forever grateful.
Warning trying to load that file into Arduino IDE can kill your operating system first was working. OK until it started lagging out and locked up and windows could not boot because it was missing system files I have a very high-end machine so I doubt slow hardware is the issue here.
Update I luckily backed up the system after a closer inspection when it’s opening the RAM use goes up fast till it maxed it out at 64 gigabytes and locks up don’t know how this is happening
Having an issue with an Ender 5 plus. I recently bought a 4.2.7 board. Installed it after watching so many videos and reading documents and all connections are in. flashed the screen thats all good. however plugging in the board to the pc the screen keeps flashing on and off when the usb connects to the pc, then when i turn on the main power of the printer it sits at the loading screen and the bar doesn't fill at all. also the bed gets hot for no reason at all. running the arduino doesn't connect to the printer at all however the pc sees that its using COM 4
@@kerseyfabs went fairly good. i mounted an skr pro 1.2 with 4 2209. the hotend is a thc-01 from NF but with the stock heatblock from creality. haven't gone multicolor yet but will soon. also thank you for the Z endstop STL. fried my crtouch cause creality has red on ground and you literally saved me with that STL. printed it with a lot of luck and i have x sensorless now but is not a problem.
What do you have then? The board part should work on any Marlin printer. You should just need to find your configuration files and board configuration.
@superghetto420 shut your printer down, wait a few minutes, turn it back on, test the AUX leveling, and then redo your Z-Axis Offset. Strangely, restarted mine multiple times before it worked. I'm not sure why my z axis got weird though.
hi there. Your videos are very useful Kersey. Thanks for making them. I am using Ender 5+ atm, but have some issue with it. One corner ( left back ) of the bed is always much lower than others. I need to turn the knob as much as possible to get correct distance to nozzle. Already swapped some pieces of the frame, turned the bed, changed leadscrews etc. Still same problem. Any suggestion ? ( I hope that there is some small things I missed ) . Thank you.
Have you followed my bed leveling guide? It goes through making sure the left and right of the bed are leveled and then making sure you lower it down before leveling. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/kdQ_0IvolnE/v-deo.html
any luck on fixing this? I'm having the same exact issue. I thought the hot bed was warped so I bought a new one. I had the silicone spacers I had put it and took those back out and put the springs in but still the same exact issue. I did do Kerseyfabs bed leveling guide step by step and I'm still having the same issue. any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated!!
@@coondogg729 hi there. I put new firmware for my Ender5 Plus and it seems problem fixed. Did it as on the clip above _ huge Thanks for Kersey Fabrications.
When does the reset occur? I haven't seen this problem I believe. You could connect to the printer over USB and manually run 'M500' to save the setting. You can also configure it manually with 'M851 Z1.2' where '1.2' is the offset and then 'M500'.
@@kerseyfabs it resets when I go to print it adds more space in between the bed and the nozzle from what I set previously is there a save setting button on the print it self?
Please help, My Ender 5 plus just stops, doesn't matter the slicer, memory card, or file. Full stop. The lcd says temps are at the set print temps but cool to the touch. All motors are not moving(X,Y,Z steppers and the extruder) When I try to cancel the print, it freezes the printer. Its always at the X/Y 0,0 coordinate. I can auto-home, level the bed and heat up the hot end no problem. I tried your firmware updates and nothing helped. Any Idea what this could be?
@@kerseyfabs I was printing a 72 hour print, it did 97 percent of the print and just stopped. I thought the file was bad so i cut it in mesh mixer to print the remainder and it froze printing the raft. I then tried a completely different file that I sliced months ago and it doesnt even finish the raft, stopping at 0,0 with the issue of no errors displayed. I did notice a bin file on the drive that wasnt there before I printed. Update, I bought 4 brand new sd cards, the issue has not presented itself since using new cards.
I've been trying the last 4 hours to get this to work. I get to the compiling sketch step and my pc just completely freezes. I also tried my wife's pc and it does the same thing.......... I'm beyond frustrated... any ideas?
I honestly have no idea. I showed my process and I haven't seen lockups. As for the Chinese, that's what happens when the display and firmware are not the right versions for each other.
Update on this. I just tried this again this morning and it everything worked fine... not sure if my pc was having a bad night or what. Lol thank you@kerseyfabs
I refreshed my Ender-5 with your firmware with many thanks! I hopped that the auto-home problem, that the hot end is pushed against the middle of the left side rail, is corrected this way, but of course not. How can I change the "Home"-position to the middle of the table the best way? (I modified with Exoslide-sliders anyway, but the hot-end remained the old one.)
The problem partly still exist: it starts to print at the very edge of x, y ~ 0, 0, instead of the Cura position of the model in the middle of the table.
i have just done this and all is well so far but i need to adjust e steps since i installed sprite direct drive and can't seem to find where i need to do that. your videos are soooo helpful. thank you
so i just did the screen firmware and received all 0000 for each line and my screen didnt change. like you said i have a stock e5 plus with a silent board.
I have had two large prints completely ruined because the filament ran out, then the printer paused the print as normal, but the stupid thing turned the bed heat off and the print came loose before I got to change the filament! Is there any way to change this so that it doesn't turn off the bed heat when waiting for me to change the filament, either before or after this upgrade?
Not with any firmware that I've tested on the stock display. It's the display doing it, not the board. If I get more interest in trying out other firmware, I'll see if I can find one that works.
Hello, I followed your steps and updated my firmware and all that (I know it worked because the display changed) and as soon as I turned it off then back on again it goes right back to not knowing what up is? Every time I level it it just goes down ten cm, checks, goes down again, and repeats three times. Any idea why this is happening? This is the third firmware code I’ve put on it so far, the other two were from creality and your previous vid, and I keep having this same issue on all of them
Have you modified any wiring? If not, you could be having the standard BLTouch communications problem. The only way to fix it is to separate your BLTouch wire from the rest of the bundle and run it separately. I need to do a video on it.
@@kerseyfabsany advice on fixing this issue though? Reuploading this fixed it once but it doesn’t work anymore. Printer is unusable and I can’t figure out how to fix it. Everyone acknowledges this is a known issue, nobody online seems willing to share how to fix it XD sos
Perfect timing, I just dusted of the old E5+ and brought it out of retirement. I'm still using your firmware from before but it's nice to have a little refresher.
Glad to hear you're getting back into it. If that's still working for you, you won't need this but it gives you some options.
So great to see a new video from you for this Ender 5plus. Does this firmware work for the V2.2.1 silent board? Thank you for all you do for the 3d printing community!
Yes it does! I appreciate it.
Please can you advise?
I have been running an old version of Marlin and all is working OK>
Should I upgrade to the latest firmwares?
Was also considering a direct drive but not 100% sure I should change
Ive learned: if it aint broke, dont try to fix it..!
What are the benefits please?
thank you
I agree with you! If it's working well, don't risk messing it up. Keep going with what you have. This is mainly for people having problems or needing to make changes.
i am about to put my ender 5 plus in the bin , was doing the update with creality soft wear there way and ended up with a machine stuck on the startup and nothing else , i followed this to the letter , please help regards
Sketch uses 133356 bytes (52%) of program storage space. Maximum is 253952 bytes.
Global variables use 6811 bytes (83%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1381 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 8192 bytes.
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer
Failed uploading: uploading error: exit status 1
That means your computer is not communicating with your board and is timing out. If your computer is not creating a COM port properly when plugged into the printer, there's an error with the connection or it's possible the board is bad or has a damaged bootloader.
installation was easy. Booted up fine, just one small problem. Everything is in Chinese. How do I get it back to English?
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/2BroEvNYuvc/v-deo.html
Dang, im just getting back into my E5P. Perfect timing hahaha!
I hope this helps!
So i followed this step by step, ended up with the Chinese screen.. but found the English setting easily.
Awesome! I'm glad it worked for you!
I was also curious if you have ever heard of the Jyers firmware for the ender v2? If you have, Is there any other firmware available like that for the Ender 5 plus? I am interested in maybe finding a better firmware for the ender 5 plus. Do you know of any other firmware that gives more options? I guess I could have just started by asking that! LOL
how can i make the nozel be in the middle of my workplate again? I think the bltouch is now in the center but idk of that is good or not.
When it probes, the probe will be in the middle. When it prints it will be centered correctly.
I've tried to flash the firmware with three different sd cards (all correctly formatted and with the designated firmware files) and it doesn't seems to read any of them. Any idea why could it be happening?
I really tried to put all I know in the video. Size, format, how to copy. I'm sorry if it's not working.
Not sure if u can help me or not but I took bad pictures and can’t remember where the black connector wire goes that has the 3 wires that are orange, black and red and not sure of the direction. Your videos are too notch, i just successfully loaded the screen firmware on a 32 gig card I formatted to 8 gig thanks to this video!
I appreciate it. Sorry to not have a more direct answer but see if you can figure out which wire it is in this video: ua-cam.com/video/cAI0H4e6Usg/v-deo.htmlsi=NRtqJPcev_xaqkwX
@@kerseyfabs yessir thats the one! Unfortunately the bed still stops way far from the extruder. I may have had it in the wrong place at first and messed it up, gonna try a new board. Thank you for your help and videos!
Hello, i have a modified ender 5 plus with 700mm in z axis, where i change in this software?
What you're looking for is Z_MAX_POS. Cheers! 👍
so following this video my screen was unresponsive, i used your firmware update fir the screen and its not in chinese but responsive, how do i get it back to english lol
Easy fix: ua-cam.com/video/2BroEvNYuvc/v-deo.html
Followed the steps, now I can't get any of the axis to move. What could cause that?
I actually don't know specifically. If everything loaded properly, nothing should stop that from working.
hi again, when attempting to do pid autotune of the hotbed ,this is the message I get ..PID Autotune failed! Bad extruder number.
I assume this is a setting in marlin that has to to changed ?(with the arduino software) but Im getting lost with how to do this .Can you suggest anything ?
Thankyou again
Are you running this manually on the console? If so, what command are you using?
When I try to verify the firmware i got at text warning me of low memory available and lot of other red error texts. Can anyone say what is wrong?
The low memory error is weird but shouldn't be a problem. The read error could mean a communications problem (bad USB cable?) or it could mean the flash memory on your board is bad.
HI I was wondering if you can give some guidance. I appreciate the video and it was perfect for the most part. I was able to follow it flawlessly. Everything seemed perfect until I started checking this manually. As i manually controlled the X,Y Z function I couldn't get it to move at all in +X at all. I restarted and tried 2 times. I tried auto leveling and this was worse as it went back then moved forward and left instead of right. I shut it down as it hit as i didn't want it to get damaged of course. Any guidance would be appreciated. Its all factory parts and software.
The only thing that comes to mind is that you have to home to move right first. I would suspect you've done that though. Can you print? Does it move right during prints?
@@kerseyfabs OK so i decided to swap cables around for X & Y and it worked but of course backwards. I put back and everything is working correctly now. It will now home correctly. IDK maybe a dirty connection on one of the wires perhaps. Pretty weird. Just wanted to update incase someone else gets this weird issue. "This ended up being a loss pin in the motor connection side of the plug. Not sure how but replaced that motor and everything is perfect" Loose connections and pins are way more common than i realized with this guys.
Im honestly having the worst time trying to get firmware stuff done on marlin even trying to get your binaries to work on the skr mini E3. I was following the tutorial on your other videos but somehow Im getting stuck. Clearly an issue between chair and keyboard lol. but help would be greatly appreciated. Its all that darn BL touch POS thats giving me trouble.
You're welcome to give me some specifics and I'll help if I can. If it's BLTouch communication issues, I'm going to do a video on it soon.
@@kerseyfabs awesome. Basically it flips out and says unable to level bed. I bought a new cable and tried to verify pin/cable order for it. Maybe I have something wrong with that. Might be worth doing a segment on the cable order on the back of the BL touch because all the wire colors are different depending on what cable you purchase for it.
Question: 1st time 3D printer owners here, so glad to have found your channel! Still working on installing it. Thank you for the BLTouch firmware! It was installed correctly. However the language keeps switching to Chinese after switching the printer off. Is there a more permanent solution to keep it in English?
Happy I could help. You have to install both of these components (screen and board) to fix the issue.
@@kerseyfabs we wanted to do that, but then it said it couldn't communicate with the device, it was connected to the computer, but it didn't find it.
@@kerseyfabs trying different solutions we could find online, the screen is now stuck, and will only respond if you click on settings, everything else is frozen.
@@PurpleBlueArrow I'm sorry it isn't working for you. You have to get it communicating with the computer for it to work.
Exactly what I needed tonight. My ender 5 stopped printing so I figured I should update the firmware. Awesome instructions! Saved me
I'm glad I could help!
After following video guide, my Ender 5+ "pause and restart" doesn't restart at the right spot resulting in cancelled/stopped print. Any suggestions to make it restart at the same position.
Sorry but I haven't tried that on mine lately to see what the problem may be. If I get a minute, I'll try it out.
@@kerseyfabs Did your printer correctly resume printing after powering off or pausing print? Any suggestions on how to fix it so that it does, specifically after dynamically adjusting the Z-offset.
I've just given my Ender 5 Plus a custom print head that has an E3D v6 hotend. Now that it's all wired I can't get it up to temp - setting it to go to 250C it slowly goes up to around 130C than says heating failed bla bla bla. Doing a PID tune via pronterface it again slowly goes up to around the same temperature, than the temp reading jumps over 350C and the autotune stops. I think I just need to somehow tell the printer in the firmware what it now has to deal with, I just don't know how.
P. S. it's running a silent board and your firmware at the moment
I've already figured it out. The thermistor type has to be changed to 5 in the firmware, wich corresponds to the thermistor used in the E3D v6 hotend. I wouldn't have gotten here without your video though, so thank you very much!
Nice job! Happy printing!
@@kerseyfabs Thanks man!
My comment did not make it, so doing it a second time differently. I did make an updated version of DGUS reloaded for the screen. You can install latest Marlin 2.1 bugfix and get MPC for the hot-end, linear advance and more. My version of DGUS has been made the default one for ender 5 plus, so easy to find from the Marlin template for Ender 5 plus.
With my reinforced ender 5 plus and micro-swiss direct drive, custom head you can find under my name on thingeverse, I print at 100 mm/sec with high quality.
Hey! I was testing some of the DGUS alternatives but never found one that worked 100%, so I abandoned it. Can you link to me where yours is for testing?
If I have the stock silent board what do I put down for stepper drivers?
@@velo555 I did not have the silent board and the beginning, but I replaced it with the silent one. For the settings, I did put the steppers to around 0.8V to begin, then I push them to 1.2V for extrudeur, 1.0 for Y and if I remember well 0.9V for X. The goal is to make the drives hot but not warm (I would says around 40/50°C) to have the max current in them without risk. But it is needed if you want to have high speed and strong acceleration, so a reinforced Ender 5 Plus.
@@RodrikStudio Sorry, I meant to ask if the silent board had different stepper drivers specified in the configuration.h file as compared to the non silent board.
@@velo555 Ah sorry, they are TMC2208_STANDALONE in Marlin for the silent board
fantastic video and tutorial, was having so many issues, the firmware update has solved so many, one thing though the extruder does not home to the center of the bed but 3/4 to the right of the bed, can't figure out how to get it centered, please help a noob !!
Not sure if you covered this but any advice for the language being stuck in chinese. Followed the process and this didnt seem to fix the issue.
This is the only thing I know that fixes the issue. You have to flash the display and the board.
@@kerseyfabs Yeah I had done that part to no avail BUT! I did look up the Chinese Symbol for "language" and was able to find it pretty quickly in the settings. Just shifted it English and then off to the races. Downloading your Simple Test pattern now to work on the bed leveling. You have great reference videos and the fact that you responded got you a life long follower. I appreciate it!
Great video !! but still new to this .Have updated using your soft/firmware .However no I have no bltouch/autolevel .Bl touch will power up and self test .I get this message through prontoface when I send command m420s
SENDING:M420S
Error:Failed to enable Bed Leveling
Any ideas ??? huge thanks in advance
You have to create a bed mesh first by running g29.
I have a Ender5plus and followed your steps. I recently installed a silent mother board and trying going through your process but Arduino is saying “stk500vs_RecieveMessage(): timeout” anyway I can resolve this? also what would the board be called if I put a different board in. Thanks
Do you think it's better to use this firmware or and skr 1.4 turbo with the firmware you mentioned in another video?
I followed that tutorial (the skr one with tmc 2208 drivers) but my printer stutters in movements and it really doesn't work but I can't fix it for the life of me
I'd rather have the SKR with a new screen. It's a better experience.
@@kerseyfabs is there any way i can contact you? I've tried everything and my printer still wont work :(
@@javs2406 Always! kris@kerseyfabrications.com
Thanks nicely done
hi i did everything correctly ( i think ) but after the arduino verification, it brings up an error ( mega does not name a type )
Have you already loaded the code into the Arduino IDE? When does it show that error?
@@kerseyfabs when i press verify
So after upgrading the firmware the printer thinks its 357 degrees while it should be room temp. I also changed the hot end out before I did the firmware upgrade. Could I of messed up the thermistor/cable or does that sound like a firmware issue? I also get an error when reuploading the firmware. (saying arduino IDE timeout)
I upgraded to the Creality Drict Drive and it says in the instructions too
"On the printer controller, navigate to Control -> Motion ->Steps/mm, and adjust the Esteps/mm value to 424.9. Then navigate back to the Control menu, select Store Settings, and hit Enter to save the setting."
I can't find where to set the Esteps in the firmware to set it to 424.9.
Also;
On another subject, what changes have you made to your /Ender5 Plus and what changes have you made in the firmware?
I just got 5 plus, so I used your firmware upgrade but I'm having a problem with the bl touch. The bl touch cycle's correctly. but it will not deploy on homing and cause the nozzle to crash into the bed. Its a V 3.1 i have done all the normal things to get it working, cleaning and ect. any help would be greatly appreciated.
Couple questions for you. I am running a relatively stock ender 5 plus other then a direct drive setup with octopi. Would you recommend at very least updating the firmware to fix the wrong probe locations? Second question I know you have swapped boards out on other ender 5 plus. Would you say it is worth the change or are the changes not that big? I’m debating on setting up a SKR 3.
Do these latest files include the fixes to the ABL offset issues?
It's source, so yes, it includes the changes or you can change it to fit your install.
I have an ender 5 plus and it printed good yesterday but know it won't home correctly. the bed goes down not up. I have a new touch prob coming in on 8/17/2024, but what do I do if it doesn't work. please help me I am afraid to download a new firmware for it. Also, I have an ender 3 pro and I thank that I used the STL card on the ender 5 plus could be that the problem. If so, how do I fix that. please help me out.
Absolutely amazing and helpful. Everyone that is having problems, be sure you are following the instructions step by step and using the firmware file links in the description and not the firmware links through creality. Thanks!
Glad it helped! Thanks!
hi kris,
I sent an email to you as requested, in relation to the direction problem I am having with my ender 5 plus. I haven't received a response as yet. I have been unable to find a solution to the problem of the hotbed moving down instead of up when levelling. PLEASE ,PLEASE , PLEASE can you give me help in resolving this. I am unable to use my machine until it is sorted.
Hey I did the DWIN set and my ender5 reverts to Chinese any ideas? I'm running V2.2 8bit 2560
I got it figured out I only did step 1 out of 2 Rookie mistake
It happens when the board firmware and display firmware get out of sync. That's why I do both in this video.
Legend! sorted my issue right out thanks
Glad it helped!
i am trying to change the thermister temp settings in arduino ide 2.3.2 does anyone know what thermister temp (i.e. thermister_o 1 etc). i also changed the max temp but it doesnt change nor go to the temp of 295c that i am trying to reach. i have not tried to print anything yet. i have an all metal hotend along with an upgraded thermistor. flashed the display screen as done in the video, now stuck on temps. any help appreciated!
Thank You God send! I was about to give up on my Hemera XS ever reaching full temp the videos I was following have out of date links and info. I do hope I can search through the code of the Screen to adjust the UI temps as well.
Glad it helped!
I purchased an ender 5 plus from my buddy. It was sitting in his closet, brand new, still in the box for about 3 or 4 years. Anyway, I set it up and ran it on the firmware that was on it. So, it was old firmware but it worked for me...Until it didn't. lol! It started dropping the bed like 100mm and then try to automatic bed level. I figured the firmware was bad and decided to change it. I added the DWIN file to the screen and that's when all hell broke loose! I tried to update the firmware using the slicer and it wasn't reading it. I am guessing after watching your video that it was not a data cable, however, it was the blue cable that came with the printer...so I don't know. Anyway, I am going to try and do it all over again and try ordering a data cable from Amazon as well as use the files you provided. By the way, When I updated the screen firmware with that DWIN file, I remember seeing all the images load. It also said end just like yours did. When I turned it off and back on, I just get this: 19 0 both in the bottom left and right corners of the screen and nothing else. It doesn't do anything. It just displays that.
Any suggestions? I appreciate you and all your help!
did you managed to update the printer?
I’ve been running v. 170.1 iirc for like 8 years any reason I should update? Thanks Kersey for the original firmware tutorial too!
No need! There's nothing new in this firmware. This video just helps people that have had problems recently update their machines.
I have an ender 5 plus that I'm having trouble with one low area of my bed, looking through your source code if I change the grid max points on line 898 it'll do a finer mesh, correct?
You can give it shot. It should work but the change won't be reflected on the display. So just make sure the display doesn't mess it up.
I went through all the steps and my display is in Chinese or Japanese.
I am using the blue cord that came with the printer to upload. I'm not sure if that is what is causing the issue.
@craigyost626 go into the Configuration.h file and search LANG then you will find where you can define your language. This should be around line 1200 of code.
There will be a greyed out line of code that reads //#define LCD_LANGUAGE en. If you want it to be in english just delete the two // in that line of text. If you want a different language then look a few lines of code above and find your desired language.
I just tried this out on my machine and thought it would work. It has not. Maybe it has something to do with the splash screen images in the LCD.
Just reset the language and you should be good to go: ua-cam.com/video/2BroEvNYuvc/v-deo.htmlsi=3m7_4KLzBM66qs-R
@@kerseyfabs Yeah thats what i had to do, just change the language on the printer menu.
Excellent video Kersey! Worked like a charm!
Good to hear! Thanks!
Will this work on a stock printer
Yes. It's designed for the stock display with the stock board or silent board.
No me funciona, hago todos los pasos pero después de instalar todo y cuando quiero hacer el alineado central el cabezal me lo pone 10 centimetros hacia la izquierda. Y si actualizo el bltouch con otra version me funciona en el centro pero me dejan de funcinar muchas funciones del lcd y me hace falla de sistema con el idioma chino.
Can u do a video of the insanity automation firmware
I am looking into it!
@@kerseyfabs can't wait to see what you think about it
@@kerseyfabs I talked to Insanity Automation and he said he'd be happy to talk with you again; maybe you could do a video interview with him too.
I just tried to update my printer as per this video and it hasn’t worked the 8 times I’ve tried☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️☹️
Perfect timing I was about to try to get my ender 5 plus working again. I had a ton of issues switching to the silent board.
I hope this helps! Good luck!
I got a new silentboard and the thermal keeps changing up and down. After a half hour it will get a thermal runaway but it's not nozzle wires.
Jumps from 220, 169, 202, 223.
Thanks so much for this video! My printer has been out of service for a little while and this seems to have fixed the problem. It kept reverting to Chinese text but now it it stays in English.
Awesome! Glad to hear it worked!
The LCD firmware in your Google Drive reverts the LCD screen to chinese. Even after setting the language function, it continues to go back to chinese characters. Can you verify your LCD firmware, as well as the GitHUB motherboard update? The Creality LCD update is worse... btw. any help would be greatly appreciated.
I have verified this version myself and so have others. NOTE: You must pair the display update with the board firmware. The Chinese character set bug occurs when the two versions get out of sync. If it starts up in Chinese, you should be able to switch it back and it should stay.
Will I be able to use the "change filament command"? I tried to make it with prusaslicer but it doesn´t pause the print.
Not with that display firmware. There's no user interface for it.
Where is Iron man 😔😅😂
Iron Man is coming. I owed my audience this video.
Thank you so much!
You're welcome! Glad it helped!
Do you know why Auduino stalls when loading Marlin?
What do you mean it "stalls"? As I showed in my video, it takes some time to load all of the source files.
@@kerseyfabs Tried it on two different laptop and a desktop all windows machines, all froze up at different points in the folder loading process, one laptop has been attempting to load for over 20 hours.
I'm really sorry to hear that. It's hard for me to debug random issues with software though. I do my best to just provide straight-forward instructions.
You fixed my & a friends ender 5 plus with the custom screen firmware (all is in Chinese, but it works!) after the help desk couldn't find a solution.
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/2BroEvNYuvc/v-deo.htmlsi=mpwFLo-OFFvqu7qm
Hello, any chance you can produce a video for installing a silent board that has only one Z motor connector? I have followed another video by A M P on how to setup the board and the correct changes needed. I then followed this tutorial for the firmware process and I am having issues with the firmware uploading. My computer does recognize the printer and seems to be just fine. But I get an error of can not upload firmware. Any idea what I could be doing wrong.
Little background on why I am curious is the 4.2.2 board from creality is super hard to get. But the 4.2.7 board is readily available. I have two ender 5 plus printers, the first one I am running the 4.2.2 that I got a year ago. My second printer was all stock I picked up dirt cheap from a friend. Anyways I am trying to get it running like my first one on the sonic pad. It's not going as planned.
Have you ever thought of making trama team cyberpunk helmet with hud?
I have thought about it but have no extra time to implement it. Thanks!
Can someone post a link to the video where he describes the changes to the firmware? I don’t see it in his video list.
I like using VSCode better. Not a huge Microsoft fan boy but they really put a lot of effort into there IDE. Anyways, thanks for a great tutorial, just what I needed! Keep up the great work.
Oh, I use VSCode almost daily and on MODERN Marlin, it's what I use. With this older Marlin source, Arduino IDE just works.
@@kerseyfabs keep up the good work man, appreciate it
So just to be sure , this is the most updated Creality release? I just did this process and even changed my basic temp setups for preheating purposes, this has been a great help. I was one of those people that couldn't read Chinese so I had to revert back to the earlier software release.
I'm happy to hear it worked for you! Creality only released one version. They never updated it. I made some updates myself.
Explicación increible, mejor imposible 10/10
Thank you so much!
Lovely content ! I have got a Creality Spider Pro Hotend, which comes with a different thermistor suitable for 300 Deg C. Is there a way to modify the original firmware and adjust the Max Temp and thermistor settings (if needed)? Thank you for the shared support !
after the update it wont show me any media to print after i insert the card. what did i do wrong?
I updated the firmware with your file, but now I have two issues:
The nozzle temperature setting is not being set by the G-code file. I have to adjust it manually before printing.
The Power Loss Recovery function is not accurate. After a power failure, there is an offset in the Y-axis.
Please help me resolve these issues.
does that firmware enable uniform probing of the bed?
Meaning that the probe offset should be right, yes.
I am new at 3 d printing I want to change my e0 pin to e1 how can I do that
Hi,
After following your video, I successfully uploaded the screen DWIN_SET from an 8GB SD card, and removed it when it showed END. I successfully uploaded the firmware using arduino, but the screen is stuck on the flash screen with the loading bar at the bottom, not moving. Can you suggest anything to get round this. I have a stock display and a Creality v2.2 silent board. Regards, Mike
Have you unplugged from the computer and turned the printer off and back on again? When you flashed the display, did it show all of the correct counts?
@@kerseyfabs Hi, Yes the file count is exact match. Turned off, removed the SD card, unplugged from computer. Turned back on, thats when the frozen screen appeared
Hi, I should also mention, I followed the instructions with a different (identical) display, with the same result.
@@michaelwall6240 And you received no errors when flashing the firmware from Arduino?
@@kerseyfabs Hi,
Got no errors when flashing. Finally got a screen to work. Fired up the machine and when I selected Home, the X and Y centred but the bed lowered instead of raising the z to the probe. Any ideas what could be causing this. I know all of the connections are firmly in place. Could I have the 3 pin connector of the probe the wrong way round on the board? ( there are no prompts on it to identify the live, and Creality are notorious for changing the wiring colours depending what they have to hand). Regards ,Mike?
I just went through your process, and after 8 months, my Ender 5 Plus is closer to printing again. The only thing not working so far is the leveling and the BL Touch. When I home it, it digs the nozzle into the PEI sheet. Once I turn it off and lower the bed and go to leveling, it goes into position, lowers the bed and then just stays there. It doesn't bring the bed up so I can get a measurement and proceed. If you can help me, I'll be forever grateful.
I think you're experiencing the BLTouch issue. You need to separate out the BLTouch wire and run it separately. I'm going to do a video on it.
I would appreciate the video very much. I’m still a novice and not electronically inclined.
Warning trying to load that file into Arduino IDE can kill your operating system first was working. OK until it started lagging out and locked up and windows could not boot because it was missing system files I have a very high-end machine so I doubt slow hardware is the issue here.
Update I luckily backed up the system after a closer inspection when it’s opening the RAM use goes up fast till it maxed it out at 64 gigabytes and locks up don’t know how this is happening
Sorry to hear that! I haven't heard of that. I have half that amount of memory on the demo computer and have used it on even smaller machines.
Having an issue with an Ender 5 plus. I recently bought a 4.2.7 board. Installed it after watching so many videos and reading documents and all connections are in. flashed the screen thats all good. however plugging in the board to the pc the screen keeps flashing on and off when the usb connects to the pc, then when i turn on the main power of the printer it sits at the loading screen and the bar doesn't fill at all. also the bed gets hot for no reason at all. running the arduino doesn't connect to the printer at all however the pc sees that its using COM 4
thank you for the detailed vid! does this work with CR touch too?
It should be a drop in replacement.
@@kerseyfabs SHWEET! Saw your other vid with the dual filament hotend and you've inspired me to upgrade too, but i'm going 3 colors :D
@kaossssss I hope that goes well! Let me know what you end up with.
@@kerseyfabs went fairly good. i mounted an skr pro 1.2 with 4 2209. the hotend is a thc-01 from NF but with the stock heatblock from creality. haven't gone multicolor yet but will soon. also thank you for the Z endstop STL. fried my crtouch cause creality has red on ground and you literally saved me with that STL. printed it with a lot of luck and i have x sensorless now but is not a problem.
@@kaossssss Good to hear!
I tried the main screen and it is stuck at the loading screen. Where it says ender-5 plus
Make sure you've installed both the new firmware on the board and the new display firmware. They go together.
But, I don’t have the plus model…
What do you have then? The board part should work on any Marlin printer. You should just need to find your configuration files and board configuration.
I did this and now the AUX leveling feature doesn't work and there is about 15mm x axis offset.
did you ever figure it out it is happening to me now
@superghetto420 shut your printer down, wait a few minutes, turn it back on, test the AUX leveling, and then redo your Z-Axis Offset. Strangely, restarted mine multiple times before it worked. I'm not sure why my z axis got weird though.
@hobojoe357 thanks Hobo I appreciate the help. You're a badass
Hi, Will this allow you to use STL files
STL files always have to be converted into Gcode. STL files are not something printers understand.
hi there. Your videos are very useful Kersey. Thanks for making them. I am using Ender 5+ atm, but have some issue with it. One corner ( left back ) of the bed is always much lower than others. I need to turn the knob as much as possible to get correct distance to nozzle. Already swapped some pieces of the frame, turned the bed, changed leadscrews etc. Still same problem. Any suggestion ? ( I hope that there is some small things I missed ) . Thank you.
Have you followed my bed leveling guide? It goes through making sure the left and right of the bed are leveled and then making sure you lower it down before leveling. Here's a link: ua-cam.com/video/kdQ_0IvolnE/v-deo.html
any luck on fixing this? I'm having the same exact issue. I thought the hot bed was warped so I bought a new one. I had the silicone spacers I had put it and took those back out and put the springs in but still the same exact issue. I did do Kerseyfabs bed leveling guide step by step and I'm still having the same issue. any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated!!
@@coondogg729 hi there. I put new firmware for my Ender5 Plus and it seems problem fixed. Did it as on the clip above _ huge Thanks for Kersey Fabrications.
@@kerseyfabs Thank you very much. Not sure about connection of my problem to firmware upgrade, but its fixed now. Thank again.
@@rogerkaczoch6452 I'm trying to do this now and I'm having nothing but problem. get to the compiling sketch step and my pc just freezes.........
Worked perfectly expect now my printer doesn’t save its offset… how would I fix that I level it then it resets to another z offset
When does the reset occur? I haven't seen this problem I believe. You could connect to the printer over USB and manually run 'M500' to save the setting. You can also configure it manually with 'M851 Z1.2' where '1.2' is the offset and then 'M500'.
@@kerseyfabs it resets when I go to print it adds more space in between the bed and the nozzle from what I set previously is there a save setting button on the print it self?
Please help, My Ender 5 plus just stops, doesn't matter the slicer, memory card, or file. Full stop. The lcd says temps are at the set print temps but cool to the touch. All motors are not moving(X,Y,Z steppers and the extruder) When I try to cancel the print, it freezes the printer. Its always at the X/Y 0,0 coordinate. I can auto-home, level the bed and heat up the hot end no problem. I tried your firmware updates and nothing helped. Any Idea what this could be?
Have you done any modifications? Is there anything non-stock about the machine?
@@kerseyfabs microswiss metal hotend, metal extruder and the silent board, all done a year ago when i bought it. No mods since april 2023.
When did the print freezing start?
@@kerseyfabs I was printing a 72 hour print, it did 97 percent of the print and just stopped. I thought the file was bad so i cut it in mesh mixer to print the remainder and it froze printing the raft. I then tried a completely different file that I sliced months ago and it doesnt even finish the raft, stopping at 0,0 with the issue of no errors displayed. I did notice a bin file on the drive that wasnt there before I printed.
Update, I bought 4 brand new sd cards, the issue has not presented itself since using new cards.
I've been trying the last 4 hours to get this to work. I get to the compiling sketch step and my pc just completely freezes. I also tried my wife's pc and it does the same thing.......... I'm beyond frustrated... any ideas?
oh and now the menu on my printer is in chinese??? i turn it back to english and it just automatically goes back to chinese
I honestly have no idea. I showed my process and I haven't seen lockups. As for the Chinese, that's what happens when the display and firmware are not the right versions for each other.
@@kerseyfabs hhmmm....alright
Update on this. I just tried this again this morning and it everything worked fine... not sure if my pc was having a bad night or what. Lol thank you@kerseyfabs
I refreshed my Ender-5 with your firmware with many thanks! I hopped that the auto-home problem, that the hot end is pushed against the middle of the left side rail, is corrected this way, but of course not. How can I change the "Home"-position to the middle of the table the best way? (I modified with Exoslide-sliders anyway, but the hot-end remained the old one.)
The limit switch was bad, actually.
That's an easy fix! Awesome! 👍
The problem partly still exist: it starts to print at the very edge of x, y ~ 0, 0, instead of the Cura position of the model in the middle of the table.
@@Peter-ho1er Check your start gcode. It usually prints a priming line on the edge.
i have just done this and all is well so far but i need to adjust e steps since i installed sprite direct drive and can't seem to find where i need to do that. your videos are soooo helpful. thank you
so i just did the screen firmware and received all 0000 for each line and my screen didnt change. like you said i have a stock e5 plus with a silent board.
i also have an issue where it will constantly revert back to Chinese
That means there's something wrong with the SD card. Reformat or shrink the partition. If all else fails, try a different SD card.
@@kerseyfabs great thanks for the help guess i did it wrong the first time.
@@kerseyfabs still switches to chinese after a few screen changes. is this due to the main board or the display?
The main board firmware has to match the display firmware.
after i flashed the screen, all language is now in Chinese. Do you know how to change that back?
Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/2BroEvNYuvc/v-deo.htmlsi=mpwFLo-OFFvqu7qm
@@kerseyfabs geez im so dumb! thanks man lmao
No problem!
We could really use a klipper tutorial for the stock boards.
I may tackle installing a Sonic Pad first and we'll see how that goes.
@@kerseyfabs I have an SKR 1.4 Turbo in my E5+ and just got a Sonic Pad for it last December. Sonic pad works great.
That worked for you huh? That's cool. I didn't know it worked with Bigtreetech boards.
Hey Kersey, does this improve the printing quality?
No. Firmware typically won't. That's more up to good slicer settings.
Thank you. This is great
You're very welcome! Glad you liked it!
I just use klipper. And cry that I can't use the stock display. No big deal.
I saw somebody using the stock display with Klipper. I can't remember the hack he used to get it to work.
I may try the Sonic Pad soon. We'll see how that works!
hey my one fan no longer works after i did the firmware how do i fix this
it is the one thats infront of the nozzle
I have never heard this side-effect. I don't even know how this firmware update could do something so specific.
@@kerseyfabs I have no idea I don't even know how to put on a different firmware to see if a different firmware would let it work
@@kganvirus7557 can you manually turn on the fan via the touch screen?
@@kerseyfabs only the one on the side sadly
What was the state of the machine before you updated?
I have had two large prints completely ruined because the filament ran out, then the printer paused the print as normal, but the stupid thing turned the bed heat off and the print came loose before I got to change the filament! Is there any way to change this so that it doesn't turn off the bed heat when waiting for me to change the filament, either before or after this upgrade?
Not with any firmware that I've tested on the stock display. It's the display doing it, not the board. If I get more interest in trying out other firmware, I'll see if I can find one that works.
You can disable the heat turning off when filament has ran out. File: LCDRTS.cpp line 2611 t/m 2636
Hey the ssh code isn’t there anymore
What ssh code?
Whoops meant clone, or the three options provided for Marlin
@@Onion_Driveby SSH Clone will only be available if you are logged in to GitHub and SSH keys are configured.
Oh I see thank you very much!
@@Onion_Driveby No problem.
Hello, I followed your steps and updated my firmware and all that (I know it worked because the display changed) and as soon as I turned it off then back on again it goes right back to not knowing what up is? Every time I level it it just goes down ten cm, checks, goes down again, and repeats three times. Any idea why this is happening? This is the third firmware code I’ve put on it so far, the other two were from creality and your previous vid, and I keep having this same issue on all of them
That means your BLTouch is having communication issues. Is the probe going in and out power up?
@@kerseyfabs it is
Have you modified any wiring? If not, you could be having the standard BLTouch communications problem. The only way to fix it is to separate your BLTouch wire from the rest of the bundle and run it separately. I need to do a video on it.
@@kerseyfabs I am not smart enough to change wiring lol. That’s what broke my last 2 printers (I haven’t learned).
@@kerseyfabsany advice on fixing this issue though? Reuploading this fixed it once but it doesn’t work anymore. Printer is unusable and I can’t figure out how to fix it. Everyone acknowledges this is a known issue, nobody online seems willing to share how to fix it XD sos