It's sad to see professional teachers and then see someone like Chris & how much better he does at displaying and relaying information. I wish companies would directly pay people like you.
@@ChrisRiley Chris, if I'm using this with a cyclops extruder and hot end, how would I set up the filament run-out sensor for the two different filaments but only one extruder? because it says define the number of run-out sensors, one per extruder, but there is only one. Would I just say there is two extruders as to have two run out sensors?
i think that its a little easier to explain things well and quickly with editing power/ when you actually have the knowledge and you know how to teach... Chris u did a great job!
I am working on setting up the SKR 1.4 Turbo on what started as an Anet A8 printer and is now just a frankenprinter. Thank you for your simple and easy to understand description of how to configure the jumpers. This helped me out tremendously. I read the PDF documentation, but with all the model and part numbers flying about, I wasn't exactly sure how to set it all up. I'm confident I can get this setup now. Thanks!
Even after 2 years this still a good guide to understanding Marlin setup - current rev of Marlin has functions at different places but the explanations still stand - thanks!
After watching several video's on your channel, it suddenly hit me. Your voice is calming. It's the voice of "I got your back bro, everything is going to be allright!"
@@ChrisRiley Half an hour ago I had the maiden voyage of the SKR1.4 and it worked like a charm. So you definitely helped me. And a lot of others I assume. Thank you!
Thanks Chris, great video as usual. At 13:34 NEVER solder wire and place it in a screw clamp terminal. Ferules ARE the best choice. Have to watch the pin assignment part a few time to absorb what you are saying.
My 1.4 turbo board landed today and as ever this is the first place I look for a comprehensive easy to understand tutorial. Good to see the subscriber numbers climbing.
Well, that was timely. I'm just installing an skr v1.4 turbo in my Ender 5 right now. There were a couple of things that I was unsure of but this video helped clear them up. Please don't be too long in releasing part 2!
I ordered an SKR 1.4 without knowing what I was getting myself into. Way more than I signed up for, but glad I'm learning to do it. I'll be watching this video several times.
Thank you Chris ! Great Tutorials ! I don't like cutting pins and I didn't cut any pins on my five TMC2209 used with a SKR1.4 Turbo: 1) I just commented the two lines //E0_DIAG_PIN and //E1_DIAG_PIN (in pins_BTT_SKR_V1.4.h file), and use two filament sensors. 2) As I use a BLtouch, I changed - in the same file - Z_MIN_PIN to P0_10 and Z_STOP_PIN to P0_10 (without changing the Z_DIAG_PIN from P1_27).
yea but then you have to remember not to upgrade that as well, i hate changing any other file then the config and adv ones, as for the bltouch, there's an entire issue going on about that, i'm using mine WITH z endstop.
I didn't change/cut anything and it still works, don't know why. I am running stallguard on X and Y , Bltouch is connected to Z endstop header( didn't want to go to the computer to build again so I tried it..)
Chris, perfect timing! I received my SKR v1.4 and TMC2209s last night! Got everything going by going through this video, your TMC2209 video, your SKR 1.3 video, and your VSCode video! and a little bit of googling... BLTouch is working, sensorless homing on X/Y, hotend fan controlled by E1 etc!
To those few people that gave Chris a thumbs down, there are two steps I can offer you. 1. squeeze your rubber ducky a couple times it will make you feel better. 2. Watch the film again, because Chris is very thorough and has done an amazing job... Thanks for the education on the BTT
I just love how Chris has replied to absolutely every comment in here. And that attitude shows in the thoroughness of the guide as well. The advice on crimping and electrical safety is on point, and usually missing from most other channels in this space. Keep up the good work.
At around 31:30 my brain started to melt with all the pins infos. However, your video are amongst the best for explaining those kind of things. Great job Chris!
So far the most informative and easy to follow video I have found to date. I have this board (turbo) I have been trying to get running with the tft35 v3.0 I feel this has gotten me the closest. got bummed out when i found out the video just went out, looking forward to a sequel. been a tough learning curve for first dip into coding.
I love this sort of video. Great job, Chris! Whenever I get a new board I use a red Sharpie marker to draw indicator dots on each of the positive screw terminals. Saves a lot of grief when you're trying to hook all the wires up in limited space inside a printer and can't see the silkscreen.
@@ChrisRiley I suggest a silver Sharpie since the terminal blocks and board are both black, non-metallic Sharpies are very hard to see on a black surface.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, yea chomping at the bit and watching my alerts for your next video. I am stalled right now at the end of your first one as I dont want to go further until i get Marlin setup right. I tried to use Teaching Techs video on this same topic but after two attempts to follow his it just crashed with error when I uploaded the firmware and so far you have already touched on things he never even mentioned which I find odd. I think I backed the wrong horse as I signed up for his Patreon, going to change that this weekend and give YOU that money instead...;) Here I set patiently waiting for part 2...;)
Thank you, thank you and thank you. This is by far the clearest and most in depth walkthrough of everything needed. Your teaching style and knowledge is excellent and have turned a Marlin newbie into a Marlin newbie 2.0. Just what I needed to get this up and running with an Anycubic Mega X which has been nothing but trouble. I finally understand how Marlin, compiling and the inner workings of my printers which will help so much with my other machines. The only difficulty I am having is with the dual z motors and the two strings endstops which are on the machine. I'm getting away with just using one z endswitch and manually syncing each side. This is something I'll work on in the future. Thanks again and keep up your awesome work on your channel
Excellent video. You do a great job anticipating what some lesser experienced viewers (myself) might not know to fully understand what you are describing. 👍👍
Great Chris. Wish you had made this a month ago ..... it would have saved me many headaches! Even so, your explanations make me understand more of what I did by trial and error. David
Hello Chris. Your videos are very helpful. THANK YOU. However to anyone considering this board...DON'T... I have had three fail. They work great until they don't. Additionally don't expect any customer service from BTT. I have been waiting for over two years for a response to an email. If it wasn't for guys like Chris there would be no help at all. Thanks again Chris
On one hand, it's great to see that the more affordable boards are stepping up their game and coming out with some nice hardware. On the other hand, having to go to this level of difficulty setting up the board for Marlin is, well, daunting. I went through this process for my FLSun, which was mandatory since the firmware as provided by FLSun did not work. More correctly, the SD card that came with the board was faulty, and/or wasn't loaded properly at the factory. FLSun support consisted of email support, which wasn't much help at all, so I took a config file out of the Marlin source that resembled my machine (the CL-260 IIRC) and created my own firmware. It took forever, but I got things working fairly well, and then two things happened. My Z endstop quit working on the board (something that had also happened to other FLSun owners), and Marlin rolled out a new version and broke many of my settings for my board. Enter the Maestro board. But for someone on a tight budget, this board really does look nice. And it is a whole lot cheaper than a Duet. And your knowledge of the Marlin firmware is encyclopedic, very impressive!
Have just done everything in part 1 ,, really great , informative and spot on. I cant wait for part 2 and get my printer going !!! Keep up the good work Chris
Hey Chris great you got round to doing this setup on the skr 1.4/turbo..I smoked about 3 of the 1.4...lol..I also had the tmc2209 and although I got things to work like stalgard..I could not get the bltouch to work..and now I see why..I think.. like you pointed out you need to clip the pin on the z ..this was never really made clear in the documention..I hope you will maybe cover the setup of the bltouch ,using the dedicated pins on the board..it seems a lot of people could not get it to work and just tried using the z min end stop pin...again great work Chris..so glade your on this!!..I now will order myself a new skr turbo and try again!.
Dongletree henley - Hello Dongletree, yeah there is some confusion about the BLTouch wiring. Tripods Garage has a video that was released last week using the dedicated pins on the Skr 1.4 Turbo. Thanks
These SKR 1.4 vids helped me so much. I just replaced my GT2560 with BTT stuff. The connectors on the board are JST-XH. I tried duponts on the Z-Stop. I found them too sloppy, or 'my dupont' connections were too sloppy, and kept falling off the pins.
I have been struggling for the past 3 days trying to get Marlin configured correctly, I just finally got it to work last night. I am running a coreXY machine and Next I want to figure out how to run 2 stepper drivers to run the 2 Motors. The reason why I want to run it this way is because Marlin has an option to level the bed from side to side (Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGN). My setup is 400mm x 400mm x 400mm.
Cool, yep, that is pretty easy, in configuration_adv.h, there is an option already setup for that. You just uncomment it and it will use your E1 driver for the second Z by default.
Great video, I recently forced a SKR V1.4 Turbo into my CR-10S Pro. I am using Vanilla Marlin 2.0.5. After a bit of googling I managed to get the BL touch probe port enabled. I am really happy with sensor less homing and the access I have to adjust firmware settings through my TFT35 V3.0 duel mode screen.
I got my SKR 1.4 Turbo 3 days ago, first thing I managed to do was to smoke the 10A Fuse I then stole a spare one from my car and it worked xD I also only bent the Pins on my 2209s, since I don't want to remove anything
Good timing. I need a new controller for my Ender 3 since the crappy SKR Mini E3 v1.2 board I had only lasted a couple of months. I hope this one lasts longer. At least if one of the stepper drivers dies I won't have to replace the whole board.
@@bruceyoung1343 yea I followed his video and it wouldn't compile at the end idk where I went wrong I need to set my homing settings but also my bed won't heat .keeps giving me error ...idk part my problem could also be that lcd screen idk
I’m about to get one of these to replace my stock Anet board. We use Marlin, and I really wanted to know if this ran Marlin, and how hard it was to setup Marlin. Thanks for these videos. I think I can run Marlin with your help!
Hey Chris, I talked to you about the tmc2209 issue and I finally resolved it. The line in the firmware in conf_adv.h (software enable) mine was defined for this but even though it's for Uart mode, the drivers have dedicated pins and this should be uncommented. It was quite vexing but I got there with some help from the GitHub forum. Thanks for your help.
Absolutely love your videos, you are one of the best teachers on UA-cam when it comes to this type of thing. I have taken delivery of the SKR 1.4 board, but also a BLTouch. Any idea when you might have a vid on installing BLTouch with this board. I also have a TFT35 screen to add to the mix too, so maybe a vid on that combo would be very much appreciated? LOL Thanks again for all of your help though, you have some serious talent, and you have my gratitude sir.
Dumb question, but which ones are the bed heater wires that go into the SKR board? Working on building a 3D printer and I thought the two wires that are attached to the heated bed are wired directly to the PSU (meanwell). Do those get wired to this location at 12:43 instead? Thanks!
Hi Chris, at 11:58 you are using for both Z motors the same driver. How do you handle the second Z stop? I did remap P1_25 (E1DET) pin as ZMAX to use in Configuration_adv.h for the Z2_USE_ENDSTOP. is there any other way without remapping in the pins file? how do you solve this problem? btw I'm using 2 driver for dual Z (E1). thanks in advance
You shouldn't have to remap anything. Marlin has this build in. Check configuration_adv.h. there is an option for dual Z that will set it up for you. Just uncomment it.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for your answer, I know the part but you still have to connect the Z2 endstop to a pin. Marlin predefines X2 as Z2 referring to E0 filament detection which I'm already using so I took the next free E1 filament detection pin. many thanks for your grate work.
Second CR10s was completed in a "full" day. BLTouch would not work in the "end stop" port for it on the 1.4 Board... So I changed my Marlin Code as per the 1.3 Board and plugged it into the Z Endstop pin and it was fine.
At 7:08 you suggest if not using sensorless homming we need to remove the diag pin. By doing this my Z_min is triggered constant..which prevents my Z from lowering to the bed on a homing movement. It only rises. Even if invert in firmware. Am i doing something wrong? Are there firmware changes i can make or do i need to solder in new pins?
The diag pin shouldn't affect your Z min endstop. It will affect other pins on the board, like power detect. Did your endstop work before? What type of endstop do you use? You're using the 1.4 board correct?
@@ChrisRiley using sensorless homing. Was having difficulties getting m48 to stop before crashing bed. I checked my triggers and eve thing worked fine. If i did a HOME it would be perfect go down and come back up. When i watched your vid it suggested i snip pins and after that no matter what i did it would give a z_min triggered constant. I reflowed pins and pushed down.
@@ChrisRiley yes i have skr 1.4 with 2209s. Ive been following chris warkocki’s bear build. Have compaired files a few times to see if im missing a setting compaired to his working files. Pinda triggers fine, just doesnt stop z travel
@@ChrisRiley so i watched your videos again, built new marlin. couple changes in pins.h and a few tweeks and it seems to be working thank you your videos help alot
I was about to buy the SKR, but I got instead the MKS SGEN L + 5x TMC2209 for €22. There's really no excuse anymore not to go 32bit + Trinamic now. A Ramps board + Arduino Mega + Allegro drivers costs more.
I just found out that you can use both sensorless homing and mechanical switches as the same time. Sensorless homing uses high signal for stall detection, so if you wire your endstop accordingly, (that is using pulling high when triggered) you can use them both. There is a github discussion where it is stated, that when the driver is pulling to 0 and the endstop is pulling to hight there is still enough tolarence for the driver (the drivers pullup current is 40u, and the safe minimum for the pin is 2mA -quoted from the discussion)
Have you guys had any problems with the V1.4T not working with E3D thermistor cartridges? I had the thermistor type configured properly in Marlin, had it plugged into the default pinheader (TH0, pin 0.24) and it was only reading 713C (this is with only the power supply and thermistor connected to the board, so the hotend heater element wasn't just going nuts). Still read 713C with the thermistor unplugged. Confirmed with a multimeter that the pins weren't shorted and tested with 3 E3D thermistors. Hell, I even assigned 0.23 and 0.25 to the E0 thermistor, and it still read crazy high temperatures. I returned the board for a replacement, and I'm hoping that board was just a lemon with some weird stuff going on. This was all on the newest non-bugfix branch of Marlin off of the github.
Thank you so much for making this video. You may not have installed it in an Ender 3 or and Ender 3V2 (I really wish someone did an Ender 3V2 video) but This had enough information that I should be able to successfully do the install on my Ender. Thanks again!!
Thanky you very much for this tutorial. I really appreciate that. I'm updating my Prusa clone to 32-bit and I am following your videos. Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Cheers from the Basque Country!
@@ChrisRiley Oh, no. It is not a country in itself. It is also known as Esukadi or Euskal Herria. Maybe the word "country" confuses you, but it is like a state within Spain. It is a group of three provinces (Bizkaia, Araba and Guipuzkoa). I am from Bilbao, a city within Bizkaia and, of course, we are the best. Why? Because of our gastronomic culture. It is impossible to find a place with such food variety, trust me.
Nice video! A few days late to save me from the end stop fun. I just went through trying to get someone's end stops working with this exact setup, before I had my own, and wasted quite a bit of time helping him before finding the instruction manual and seeing the pin removal. /facepalm. You can also just bend that diag pin out of the way, if you think you might want to use it later, but yeah, I like clipping it. Great info man.
Hi Chris, Thanks for another great lesson. I am retrofitting a Maker Gear printer that has a 24v power supply. I haven't been able to find out what the DC IN is supposed to be. Would you please let me know what input voltage is recommended? Never mind, I found the input power specs for the SKR 1.4, 12-24 VDC.
#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM is a feature I enable on my machines, very handy so you can turn off soft endstops in the Motion menu. Good for doing maintenance or setting your Z offset without having access to a terminal. I have an SKR 1.4 turbo I'm going to install on my Taz 5 as a part oi a little wiring revamp as well.. been having some issues lately with the X stepper motor wires getting hot, banging my head against the wall troubleshooting filament constantly grinding on my aero, really hot stepper drivers as well as other odd motor behavior.... figured its time for an upgrade anyway. thanks for the vid!
And I thought my MKS Config was involved. I needed 3 diff creator videos and a bit of head scratching to get 1.1.x working back in spring '19. Never could get sensorless to work on 2.x so I jumped to Klipper.
I'm thinking about ordering the SKR v1.4 and TMC2209's for my CR10s to replace the stock board but i'm having a hard time finding much about using the 2209's on the extruder. I know that the 2208's had some problems with linear advance, but I cant find much about the 2209's. To play it safe, I might purchase an LV8729 for the extruder but i'm not sure if it's really necessary. Im also new to upgrading the printer boards and this seems like a lot but i like to tinker and im sure i could stumble my way through it, especially given all the videos regarding setting it up like the one you have here.
Chris Riley Awesome! Im definitely going to go for the 2209’s then. I really appreciate you going through all your comments and replying to each and every one! It’s not something you see often from content creators. Keep up the awesome work!
good guide. thanks. i know nothing about this topic. this will help a lot. my board just arrrived today. Is it possible to swap the 2x Z-axis drivers so i can have dual x-axis drivers instead?
Hi Chris. Most needed video and very timely so thank you. Not sure if you will use the btt tft35 v3 screen, but if you do than please look into an issue. The marlin mode of the screen uses the latest configuration that has been uploaded by the user but the touch screen mode uses to all the default (factory) settings. The bed size, temp settings and everything. Not sure if I'm missing something.
I do use that screen but haven't noticed that, but it makes since. The touch is just a controller. I will take a look at mine and see what I can come up with.
Hi Chris. When are you posting part 2. Im struggling with hotend fan controls. Connected to HE1 changed in Configuration Advance E0 to P2_04 but still keeps running.
Hi Chris Thank you so much for your awesome videos, they help me so much! I have one question though: What do I do if I have clipped off a pin on my TMC2130 stepper driver (diag pins or the pins for the SPI connection) and now want to use these on an SKR 1.4? I had to clip them off because I used them previously on a RAMPS but now I'd like to use them on my new board, if possible without soldering new pins to the bottom of the drivers. Is it possible to do some wiring as it is done on the ramps and what do I have to do with the jumpers then?
On a 1.4 check this out. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/blob/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4/Hardware/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4PIN.pdf You can use the CLS pins below the driver with some jumper to the top of the driver. Also the diag pin you can run it over to the min endstop pin for sensorless homing.
Homing without sensor ! Who knew ? I'm still messing with the bltouch ! Where's that scratch build ?lol cool board and drivers ! Makes me want to buy more stuff. Cool video 👍😁👍🌞 .
@@ChrisRiley hate to be a bother lol but I just got some new stepper motors nema 17 42 steppers what is the difference between them and garden variety nema 17 1.8 angle motors it doesn't say much other than that except bi polar and such are they better motors ? I want to put them on the Frankenstein printer on the bot are they an upgrade from the pancake style motors I have now ? Thanks for any advice 👍😁
Putting tinned wire ends into screw blocks will guarantee a loose connection eventually. The solder will creep under pressure. Better twisted bare wire if you are not going to use ferrel crimps.
Hi Chris, Thanks for the very useful info. I am doing everything like you in the video, but the only thing that happens is to have after the firmware is loaded, the error err: MAXTEMP: bed. Doesn't matter if the thermistors are connected or not, the board stuck with that error. Any suggestions? Are 15 days I am looking around and no solution are given. Thank you
Sounds like maybe you have a short on the board or a pin that is off. It is sensing too high of a resistance. Check the solder joints on those pins. I would try to get another board.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris, thanks for the answer. I did a test. I changed, in pin file, the temp bed pin from 0_25 to 0_23(th1 pin) and commented the temp 1 pin. The error now is err: maxtemp: E1. I didn't expect that result, so I don't understand. I will send back the board, but this is the second defective board. After its success I except from BTT a better QC. Thank you
@ChrisRiley i have followed your every step doing this but cant get the printer dailed in to print a decent first layer. Can we perhaps connect on a call
I have the 1.4 turbo I want to put it on a ender 5 with a BL touch, but I’m struggling with configuring marlin, i’m surprised people aren’t offering to set it up for $ because I bet there’s a lot of us struggling with that part of upgrading
Chris, what a wonderful Tutorial. Thank you for this. My question: is there a way to leave and activate the stock endstops , not use sensorless homin g, without having to cut off the diag pin? Thank you
Hey Chris - this is a great video. Thanks for the amazing content. Curious if you would put together a tutorial on converting a 1.4 board to 24V? I am kinda stumped on how to elegantly drive a PWM 12v part cooling fan and other accessories...
Hi Chris, Allow me to comment on the E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN P2_04 (line 422 Configuration_adv.h) I believe the EO fan is an "always on" connection. Only the part fan (PIN P2_03) is controllable to my knowledge. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Do I understand this correctly? Everytime you want to send a command to the printer you have to open the case and move the jumper if you were using mains?
Thanks for the video, have a question: so I am installing this board onto a cr10s, the x,y,z switches are 2 wire terminal ends? could I connect it so either power and signal or ground and signal wire make the 2 connector work with the 3 pin configuration on the board?
Chris, I keep coming back to your two videos as the bible for installing and perhaps more importantly, configuring the SKR 1.4T. I have found my sensorless X and Y can offset the build area/priming stripe from print to print. If i have them too sensitive that's no good, and not sensitive enough grinds the belt. I'm at like 90 for the X and 80 for the Y, using 2226 drivers. Your numbers were something like 14, etc. so very different from mine. Any guidance is appreciated. Also, I had an idea I don't know how to implement - I'd like to see the bed SSR LED in a remote spot - i thought about printing some sort of holder for a fiber or clear filament to transfer the light, or else wondered if there's a viable way to extend an LED from "somewhere" - any ideas? Thanks!
Hey Gary, on the sensorless homing, play around with feedrate and acceleration in your start gcode for homing, that can make it more accurate. Interesting thought on the SSR, It might be easier to just wire a new LED to the DC side and run it where you need it to go.
Ok, my anet a8 and ender 2 are out of commision, but i am certain i have enough working parts between the two to cobble a reprap together. i mean to order this board but got this one: BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 32Bit Control Board With TMC2209 UART Driver instead. When it gets here, I am hoping i can use your knowledge to get it to work. I also got a z motor splitter
Hey, first of I oew you many thanks for providing such valuable information in such a detailed style. Secondly can you please guide me regarding the TMC connection error on my Lcd screen, I'm using SKR 1.4, 4 tmc 2209 drivers.
So editing the pins files is considered the proper way to rework things, and not just a hack that was the only way I could make it work? I had to move some things around for a delta config, felt dirty altering files other than Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Glad to hear it wasn't as much a Duck tape solution as I first thought!
Hey Scott, yeah, this is pretty much the only way to go. You can override a lot of pins in the config files as well, but I think the pins file rework is the way to go.
How did you determine the Z, E0 Axis Steps Per Unit? T8 Lead Screw Pitch 2MM Lead 4MM, pursa calculator doesnt have a 2mm Pitch preset.(My guess was 800) Not sure how to guess for the extruder (E0) no calculator on the pursa site for that (How did you come up with 140???)
I just got this board and I really need some help with the sensorless stuff. :( I'm really at a loss here, and I am also wondering; Can I flash the rom on this without any motors connected to it? Will that ruin it?
For some reason, our channel got a bunch of comments recently that are over a year old. I hope you got your issue solved. We didn't purposely ignore you. Thanks for watching!
hi Chris i have a question if you could answer. After a short circuit of print cooling fan cables my board became unusable. q3 ligth is on and red ligth is not turning on. İs this a dead end or could it be saved. I changed the fuses by the way nothing works. Appriciate if you can help.
Great work. But I have a question. How do you compile a source code file that doesn't have the project file included. I have a Sovol 3d printer. They have firmware Marlin source code and .hex file but no io project file. I need to change my thermistor pins from 13 to 15 and recompile the .hex. Any thoughts
It's sad to see professional teachers and then see someone like Chris & how much better he does at displaying and relaying information. I wish companies would directly pay people like you.
Thanks for the kind words.
@@ChrisRiley Chris, if I'm using this with a cyclops extruder and hot end, how would I set up the filament run-out sensor for the two different filaments but only one extruder? because it says define the number of run-out sensors, one per extruder, but there is only one. Would I just say there is two extruders as to have two run out sensors?
wink wink....I know who that barb was aimed at. :)
i think that its a little easier to explain things well and quickly with editing power/ when you actually have the knowledge and you know how to teach... Chris u did a great job!
Thanks for all your in depth Kipper videos. Nobody else does Kipper better! Much appreciated Chris
Thank you so much for the $10! You are very welcome, I'm glad the videos help!
I am working on setting up the SKR 1.4 Turbo on what started as an Anet A8 printer and is now just a frankenprinter. Thank you for your simple and easy to understand description of how to configure the jumpers. This helped me out tremendously. I read the PDF documentation, but with all the model and part numbers flying about, I wasn't exactly sure how to set it all up. I'm confident I can get this setup now. Thanks!
Glad I could help!
Even after 2 years this still a good guide to understanding Marlin setup - current rev of Marlin has functions at different places but the explanations still stand - thanks!
Awesome, thanks for the comment, glad it's still helpful.
After watching several video's on your channel, it suddenly hit me. Your voice is calming. It's the voice of "I got your back bro, everything is going to be allright!"
LOL, well that is great! I was hoping that is what I was conveying. I am always here to help!
@@ChrisRiley Half an hour ago I had the maiden voyage of the SKR1.4 and it worked like a charm. So you definitely helped me. And a lot of others I assume. Thank you!
Thanks Chris, great video as usual. At 13:34 NEVER solder wire and place it in a screw clamp terminal. Ferules ARE the best choice.
Have to watch the pin assignment part a few time to absorb what you are saying.
Thanks Mark, during the pins file part I was starting to confuse myself.
My 1.4 turbo board landed today and as ever this is the first place I look for a comprehensive easy to understand tutorial. Good to see the subscriber numbers climbing.
Thanks for your support!
Well, that was timely. I'm just installing an skr v1.4 turbo in my Ender 5 right now. There were a couple of things that I was unsure of but this video helped clear them up. Please don't be too long in releasing part 2!
Glad it was helpful, it will be out very soon.
I ordered an SKR 1.4 without knowing what I was getting myself into. Way more than I signed up for, but glad I'm learning to do it. I'll be watching this video several times.
Good luck with your project!
Thank you Chris ! Great Tutorials !
I don't like cutting pins and I didn't cut any pins on my five TMC2209 used with a SKR1.4 Turbo:
1) I just commented the two lines //E0_DIAG_PIN and //E1_DIAG_PIN (in pins_BTT_SKR_V1.4.h file), and use two filament sensors.
2) As I use a BLtouch, I changed - in the same file - Z_MIN_PIN to P0_10 and Z_STOP_PIN to P0_10 (without changing the Z_DIAG_PIN from P1_27).
yea but then you have to remember not to upgrade that as well, i hate changing any other file then the config and adv ones,
as for the bltouch, there's an entire issue going on about that, i'm using mine WITH z endstop.
Thanks! I hate cutting the pins too, very nice work around. I am going to tackle the BLtouch soon as well.
I didn't change/cut anything and it still works, don't know why. I am running stallguard on X and Y , Bltouch is connected to Z endstop header( didn't want to go to the computer to build again so I tried it..)
@@ChrisRiley you can buy pin extenders, cut those and plase them between board anc driver
@@mironfs1 Great idea.
Chris, perfect timing! I received my SKR v1.4 and TMC2209s last night! Got everything going by going through this video, your TMC2209 video, your SKR 1.3 video, and your VSCode video! and a little bit of googling... BLTouch is working, sensorless homing on X/Y, hotend fan controlled by E1 etc!
Awesome!
To those few people that gave Chris a thumbs down, there are two steps I can offer you. 1. squeeze your rubber ducky a couple times it will make you feel better. 2. Watch the film again, because Chris is very thorough and has done an amazing job... Thanks for the education on the BTT
LOL, thanks! They just need more duckys.
I just love how Chris has replied to absolutely every comment in here. And that attitude shows in the thoroughness of the guide as well. The advice on crimping and electrical safety is on point, and usually missing from most other channels in this space.
Keep up the good work.
Wow! Thank you
At around 31:30 my brain started to melt with all the pins infos. However, your video are amongst the best for explaining those kind of things. Great job Chris!
Thank you!
So far the most informative and easy to follow video I have found to date. I have this board (turbo) I have been trying to get running with the tft35 v3.0 I feel this has gotten me the closest. got bummed out when i found out the video just went out, looking forward to a sequel. been a tough learning curve for first dip into coding.
Thanks Adam, the second part will be out soon.
I love this sort of video. Great job, Chris!
Whenever I get a new board I use a red Sharpie marker to draw indicator dots on each of the positive screw terminals. Saves a lot of grief when you're trying to hook all the wires up in limited space inside a printer and can't see the silkscreen.
Thank you! That is a great idea, I never seem to just do this easy stuff first, I always wait and struggle later. Someday I will learn my lesson. :)
@@ChrisRiley I suggest a silver Sharpie since the terminal blocks and board are both black, non-metallic Sharpies are very hard to see on a black surface.
I painted the +ve terminals red. A sharpie seems much easier
Awesome, my 1.4 turbo arrives Thursday and will be putting it in my Ender 3 pro so these videos are timely as usual Chris, U ROCK!
Nice! Good luck with the build.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks Chris, yea chomping at the bit and watching my alerts for your next video. I am stalled right now at the end of your first one as I dont want to go further until i get Marlin setup right. I tried to use Teaching Techs video on this same topic but after two attempts to follow his it just crashed with error when I uploaded the firmware and so far you have already touched on things he never even mentioned which I find odd. I think I backed the wrong horse as I signed up for his Patreon, going to change that this weekend and give YOU that money instead...;) Here I set patiently waiting for part 2...;)
@@kevinm3751 Thanks Kevin, I am finishing up editing now. Very soon!
Thank you, thank you and thank you. This is by far the clearest and most in depth walkthrough of everything needed. Your teaching style and knowledge is excellent and have turned a Marlin newbie into a Marlin newbie 2.0. Just what I needed to get this up and running with an Anycubic Mega X which has been nothing but trouble. I finally understand how Marlin, compiling and the inner workings of my printers which will help so much with my other machines.
The only difficulty I am having is with the dual z motors and the two strings endstops which are on the machine. I'm getting away with just using one z endswitch and manually syncing each side. This is something I'll work on in the future.
Thanks again and keep up your awesome work on your channel
Next, Marlin guru! Thanks for watching
i have been watching and learning from you since i got my first Kossel Delta from Anycubic! thanks for the AWESOME vids! please keep it up if you can!
You're very welcome! I'm glad you're enjoying the content.
Excellent video. You do a great job anticipating what some lesser experienced viewers (myself) might not know to fully understand what you are describing. 👍👍
Thank you very much!
Great Chris. Wish you had made this a month ago ..... it would have saved me many headaches! Even so, your explanations make me understand more of what I did by trial and error. David
Hey David, sorry it wasn't sooner, but thanks for watching anyway. :)
Hello Chris. Your videos are very helpful. THANK YOU. However to anyone considering this board...DON'T... I have had three fail. They work great until they don't. Additionally don't expect any customer service from BTT. I have been waiting for over two years for a response to an email. If it wasn't for guys like Chris there would be no help at all.
Thanks again Chris
Sorry to hear that, thanks for the heads up.
Chris, almost every second of your two videos is full of valueable information. I keep constantly coming for reference! Thanks a lot
Awesome, that is great to hear.
On one hand, it's great to see that the more affordable boards are stepping up their game and coming out with some nice hardware. On the other hand, having to go to this level of difficulty setting up the board for Marlin is, well, daunting.
I went through this process for my FLSun, which was mandatory since the firmware as provided by FLSun did not work. More correctly, the SD card that came with the board was faulty, and/or wasn't loaded properly at the factory. FLSun support consisted of email support, which wasn't much help at all, so I took a config file out of the Marlin source that resembled my machine (the CL-260 IIRC) and created my own firmware.
It took forever, but I got things working fairly well, and then two things happened. My Z endstop quit working on the board (something that had also happened to other FLSun owners), and Marlin rolled out a new version and broke many of my settings for my board. Enter the Maestro board.
But for someone on a tight budget, this board really does look nice. And it is a whole lot cheaper than a Duet.
And your knowledge of the Marlin firmware is encyclopedic, very impressive!
Thank you! I know it's still kind of a pain, but Marlin has some stuff in the works that should make things easier.
i just got the board and i been pulling out my hair, so far your video is helping...
That's great! Good luck
Have just done everything in part 1 ,, really great , informative and spot on.
I cant wait for part 2 and get my printer going !!!
Keep up the good work Chris
Thanks Bob! Part 2 coming very soon.
guides like this are hard to find anymore. keep up the good work.
Thanks, will do!
Thank you Chris. Great timing! My SKR 1.4 with 2209s is its way to me. Looking forward to going back to your video to help me set it up.
Great! Good luck with your build!
Hey Chris great you got round to doing this setup on the skr 1.4/turbo..I smoked about 3 of the 1.4...lol..I also had the tmc2209 and although I got things to work like stalgard..I could not get the bltouch to work..and now I see why..I think.. like you pointed out you need to clip the pin on the z ..this was never really made clear in the documention..I hope you will maybe cover the setup of the bltouch ,using the dedicated pins on the board..it seems a lot of people could not get it to work and just tried using the z min end stop pin...again great work Chris..so glade your on this!!..I now will order myself a new skr turbo and try again!.
Dongletree henley - Hello Dongletree, yeah there is some confusion about the BLTouch wiring. Tripods Garage has a video that was released last week using the dedicated pins on the Skr 1.4 Turbo. Thanks
Glad it was helpful, I do intend to go over the bltouch setup as well.
These SKR 1.4 vids helped me so much. I just replaced my GT2560 with BTT stuff. The connectors on the board are JST-XH. I tried duponts on the Z-Stop. I found them too sloppy, or 'my dupont' connections were too sloppy, and kept falling off the pins.
Great, yeah, the duponts aren't a great long term solusion.
Fantastic job Chris. So much detailed information on these new boards and proper set up. Thank you for sharing with us all.
Thanks for watching John! I watched your Robothut walk-through the other day, really awesome place. I want to come and take the tour.
I have been struggling for the past 3 days trying to get Marlin configured correctly, I just finally got it to work last night.
I am running a coreXY machine and Next I want to figure out how to run 2 stepper drivers to run the 2 Motors. The reason why I want to run it this way is because Marlin has an option to level the bed from side to side (Z_STEPPER_AUTO_ALIGN). My setup is 400mm x 400mm x 400mm.
Cool, yep, that is pretty easy, in configuration_adv.h, there is an option already setup for that. You just uncomment it and it will use your E1 driver for the second Z by default.
This video is great...at showing me how much I have to learn still. Thanks Chris!
Thank you!
Great video, I recently forced a SKR V1.4 Turbo into my CR-10S Pro. I am using Vanilla Marlin 2.0.5. After a bit of googling I managed to get the BL touch probe port enabled. I am really happy with sensor less homing and the access I have to adjust firmware settings through my TFT35 V3.0 duel mode screen.
Nice! Glad it's working for you.
Thanks for all your effort Chris, great video again!
Thank you!
I got my SKR 1.4 Turbo 3 days ago, first thing I managed to do was to smoke the 10A Fuse
I then stole a spare one from my car and it worked xD
I also only bent the Pins on my 2209s, since I don't want to remove anything
LOL, nice! Yeah, I hate snipping those pins.
OH GREAT! All i need to do now is waiting for my shipment to arrive! :D
😀👍
Good timing. I need a new controller for my Ender 3 since the crappy SKR Mini E3 v1.2 board I had only lasted a couple of months. I hope this one lasts longer. At least if one of the stepper drivers dies I won't have to replace the whole board.
Let me know how it goes, I am curious what kind of case mods people are doing.
as allways, great tutorials, keep up the good work
Thank you, will do!
Hacking at making my own prenter. Thanks so much for taking the time to make this series. You rock.
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your project!
Hopefully this video actually gets this going I got the lcd and the turbo board for my ender 3 and been having lot trouble with the firmware
Jabber. That is what’s holding me back. I don’t want to upgrade my Ender3 pro until I fully understand how to make firmware tweaks
@@bruceyoung1343 yea I followed his video and it wouldn't compile at the end idk where I went wrong I need to set my homing settings but also my bed won't heat .keeps giving me error ...idk part my problem could also be that lcd screen idk
If it won't compile you can send me the errors and I can point you in the right direction.
@@ChrisRiley I keep getting unknown motherboard value in configuration.h
I’m about to get one of these to replace my stock Anet board. We use Marlin, and I really wanted to know if this ran Marlin, and how hard it was to setup Marlin.
Thanks for these videos. I think I can run Marlin with your help!
Awesome, yes, this should get you most of the way there for your ANET.
On a TMC 2208 driver i do not have those pins (7:42ish) that I am supposed to clip one. Is that going to be an issue?
2208's won't have them. Diag is just for sensorless homing.
20:24 What do i do for sensor less homing? With my TMC2130s
ok, thanks! Sensor less homing: 20:50
🙂👍
Have an old MK2S that needs some love, looking forward to Part 2
Sweet! It will be out soon!
Hey Chris, I talked to you about the tmc2209 issue and I finally resolved it. The line in the firmware in conf_adv.h (software enable) mine was defined for this but even though it's for Uart mode, the drivers have dedicated pins and this should be uncommented. It was quite vexing but I got there with some help from the GitHub forum. Thanks for your help.
I am glad you found it, thanks for the update.
Absolutely love your videos, you are one of the best teachers on UA-cam when it comes to this type of thing. I have taken delivery of the SKR 1.4 board, but also a BLTouch. Any idea when you might have a vid on installing BLTouch with this board. I also have a TFT35 screen to add to the mix too, so maybe a vid on that combo would be very much appreciated? LOL
Thanks again for all of your help though, you have some serious talent, and you have my gratitude sir.
Hey Gary, thanks for watching, I am hoping to get the bltouch stuff done next week.
Best tutorial video for this board on youtube!
Glad it was helpful!
Dumb question, but which ones are the bed heater wires that go into the SKR board? Working on building a 3D printer and I thought the two wires that are attached to the heated bed are wired directly to the PSU (meanwell). Do those get wired to this location at 12:43 instead? Thanks!
If you have a DC heated bed, they will need to go to the terminals I show or it will be on all the time at max temp.
@@ChrisRiley okay, that makes sense - thanks for clarifying!!
Hi Chris, at 11:58 you are using for both Z motors the same driver. How do you handle the second Z stop? I did remap P1_25 (E1DET) pin as ZMAX to use in Configuration_adv.h for the Z2_USE_ENDSTOP. is there any other way without remapping in the pins file? how do you solve this problem? btw I'm using 2 driver for dual Z (E1). thanks in advance
You shouldn't have to remap anything. Marlin has this build in. Check configuration_adv.h. there is an option for dual Z that will set it up for you. Just uncomment it.
@@ChrisRiley thanks for your answer, I know the part but you still have to connect the Z2 endstop to a pin. Marlin predefines X2 as Z2 referring to E0 filament detection which I'm already using so I took the next free E1 filament detection pin. many thanks for your grate work.
Love you very informative channel. My 1.4 regular board is slightly different. Where you plug in your z probe is where my limit switches plug in
Thank you! Huh, there must have been different versions.
Great video! just in time! Now waiting for part2...
Thanks! It's coming very soon!
Thank you so much, I followed someone elses tutorial and ended up with errors. Yours fixed that thank you so much!!!!!!
Glad I could help!
Me from he Future sure glad you made these Videos !!! Great info again just in time. !!! Keep up the great content Chris and Thanks.
Awesome Ron, hope these help with your build.
Second CR10s was completed in a "full" day. BLTouch would not work in the "end stop" port for it on the 1.4 Board... So I changed my Marlin Code as per the 1.3 Board and plugged it into the Z Endstop pin and it was fine.
That's great, thanks for telling us!
fantastic as always thank you - waiting for my turbo to arrive
Thanks for watching!
At 7:08 you suggest if not using sensorless homming we need to remove the diag pin. By doing this my Z_min is triggered constant..which prevents my Z from lowering to the bed on a homing movement. It only rises. Even if invert in firmware. Am i doing something wrong? Are there firmware changes i can make or do i need to solder in new pins?
The diag pin shouldn't affect your Z min endstop. It will affect other pins on the board, like power detect. Did your endstop work before? What type of endstop do you use? You're using the 1.4 board correct?
@@ChrisRiley using sensorless homing. Was having difficulties getting m48 to stop before crashing bed. I checked my triggers and eve thing worked fine. If i did a HOME it would be perfect go down and come back up. When i watched your vid it suggested i snip pins and after that no matter what i did it would give a z_min triggered constant. I reflowed pins and pushed down.
@@ChrisRiley yes i have skr 1.4 with 2209s. Ive been following chris warkocki’s bear build. Have compaired files a few times to see if im missing a setting compaired to his working files. Pinda triggers fine, just doesnt stop z travel
@@stewbart8977 Do you have this line commented out? #define Z_STALL_SENSITIVITY 94
@@ChrisRiley so i watched your videos again, built new marlin. couple changes in pins.h and a few tweeks and it seems to be working thank you your videos help alot
This info is great! I had just ordered one of these with a bltouch. I hope I can figure out how to get this setup using the bltouch.
Glad it was helpful! BLtouch coming soon.
I was about to buy the SKR, but I got instead the MKS SGEN L + 5x TMC2209 for €22.
There's really no excuse anymore not to go 32bit + Trinamic now. A Ramps board + Arduino Mega + Allegro drivers costs more.
You are 100% correct, I think 32 is here to stay. ;)
I just found out that you can use both sensorless homing and mechanical switches as the same time. Sensorless homing uses high signal for stall detection, so if you wire your endstop accordingly, (that is using pulling high when triggered) you can use them both. There is a github discussion where it is stated, that when the driver is pulling to 0 and the endstop is pulling to hight there is still enough tolarence for the driver (the drivers pullup current is 40u, and the safe minimum for the pin is 2mA -quoted from the discussion)
👍🙂
Have you guys had any problems with the V1.4T not working with E3D thermistor cartridges?
I had the thermistor type configured properly in Marlin, had it plugged into the default pinheader (TH0, pin 0.24) and it was only reading 713C (this is with only the power supply and thermistor connected to the board, so the hotend heater element wasn't just going nuts). Still read 713C with the thermistor unplugged. Confirmed with a multimeter that the pins weren't shorted and tested with 3 E3D thermistors. Hell, I even assigned 0.23 and 0.25 to the E0 thermistor, and it still read crazy high temperatures. I returned the board for a replacement, and I'm hoping that board was just a lemon with some weird stuff going on. This was all on the newest non-bugfix branch of Marlin off of the github.
Yeah, sounds like something was up with that board, mine seem to play with that thermistor fine.
Thank you so much for making this video. You may not have installed it in an Ender 3 or and Ender 3V2 (I really wish someone did an Ender 3V2 video) but This had enough information that I should be able to successfully do the install on my Ender.
Thanks again!!
Glad I could help
Thanky you very much for this tutorial. I really appreciate that. I'm updating my Prusa clone to 32-bit and I am following your videos. Again, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Cheers from the Basque Country!
Glad it helped! Eskerrik asko nire bideoak ikusteagatik!
@@ChrisRileyamazing! Now I am a huge fan hahaha
@@ChrisRiley sorry but I need to ask you this question. Do you know basque, or you just send it to google translate?
@@jongonzalezurbaneja6743 I did Google Translate. I remember hearing about your autonomous country a few years ago. Are you still apart of Spain?
@@ChrisRiley Oh, no. It is not a country in itself. It is also known as Esukadi or Euskal Herria. Maybe the word "country" confuses you, but it is like a state within Spain. It is a group of three provinces (Bizkaia, Araba and Guipuzkoa). I am from Bilbao, a city within Bizkaia and, of course, we are the best. Why? Because of our gastronomic culture. It is impossible to find a place with such food variety, trust me.
Nice video! A few days late to save me from the end stop fun. I just went through trying to get someone's end stops working with this exact setup, before I had my own, and wasted quite a bit of time helping him before finding the instruction manual and seeing the pin removal. /facepalm. You can also just bend that diag pin out of the way, if you think you might want to use it later, but yeah, I like clipping it. Great info man.
Thank you! I am glad you found it, even if I was a bit late. ;)
JTS Style Connectors For The Win!! :) Very Informational, great job!
I only say that about 300 times a day, not sure why I kept getting it wrong that day...jeez, thanks!
Hi Chris, Thanks for another great lesson. I am retrofitting a Maker Gear printer that has a 24v power supply. I haven't been able to find out what the DC IN is supposed to be. Would you please let me know what input voltage is recommended? Never mind, I found the input power specs for the SKR 1.4, 12-24 VDC.
Yep, 12 or 24v work just fine.
love it cant wait for part 2
Thank you!
Great video Chris! I'm going to upgrade one of my printers to this board, not sure which one yet.
Thanks! It should be a good time.
#define SOFT_ENDSTOPS_MENU_ITEM is a feature I enable on my machines, very handy so you can turn off soft endstops in the Motion menu. Good for doing maintenance or setting your Z offset without having access to a terminal. I have an SKR 1.4 turbo I'm going to install on my Taz 5 as a part oi a little wiring revamp as well.. been having some issues lately with the X stepper motor wires getting hot, banging my head against the wall troubleshooting filament constantly grinding on my aero, really hot stepper drivers as well as other odd motor behavior.... figured its time for an upgrade anyway. thanks for the vid!
Great point James, thanks for the comment, good luck with your build!
CHRIS Is there a video coming out with SKR 1.4 turbo, TMC2226 stepper drivers with Ender 3 pro?
Don't have anything with that combo on the list.
@@ChrisRiley list? You scheduled upcoming list?
I’d like to get the TMC2226 as most up to date. But not if incompatible with board/printer combo
And I thought my MKS Config was involved. I needed 3 diff creator videos and a bit of head scratching to get 1.1.x working back in spring '19. Never could get sensorless to work on 2.x so I jumped to Klipper.
Yeah, there is a bit to do for sure.
I'm thinking about ordering the SKR v1.4 and TMC2209's for my CR10s to replace the stock board but i'm having a hard time finding much about using the 2209's on the extruder. I know that the 2208's had some problems with linear advance, but I cant find much about the 2209's. To play it safe, I might purchase an LV8729 for the extruder but i'm not sure if it's really necessary. Im also new to upgrading the printer boards and this seems like a lot but i like to tinker and im sure i could stumble my way through it, especially given all the videos regarding setting it up like the one you have here.
You should be all set using a 2209 on the extruder, I run them on a couple of printers now, no issues seen with linear advance.
Chris Riley Awesome! Im definitely going to go for the 2209’s then. I really appreciate you going through all your comments and replying to each and every one! It’s not something you see often from content creators. Keep up the awesome work!
good guide. thanks. i know nothing about this topic. this will help a lot. my board just arrrived today. Is it possible to swap the 2x Z-axis drivers so i can have dual x-axis drivers instead?
Sure, it's in configuration_adv.h
//#define X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS
#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS)
#define INVERT_X2_VS_X_DIR true // Set 'true' if X motors should rotate in opposite directions
//#define X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS
#if ENABLED(X_DUAL_ENDSTOPS)
#define X2_USE_ENDSTOP _XMAX_
#define X2_ENDSTOP_ADJUSTMENT 0
#endif
#endif
Hi Chris. Most needed video and very timely so thank you. Not sure if you will use the btt tft35 v3 screen, but if you do than please look into an issue. The marlin mode of the screen uses the latest configuration that has been uploaded by the user but the touch screen mode uses to all the default (factory) settings. The bed size, temp settings and everything. Not sure if I'm missing something.
I do use that screen but haven't noticed that, but it makes since. The touch is just a controller. I will take a look at mine and see what I can come up with.
Thank you Chris
Hi Chris. When are you posting part 2. Im struggling with hotend fan controls. Connected to HE1 changed in Configuration Advance E0 to P2_04 but still keeps running.
@@deadsimpleali5540 I will be out very soon.
Hi Chris
Thank you so much for your awesome videos, they help me so much! I have one question though:
What do I do if I have clipped off a pin on my TMC2130 stepper driver (diag pins or the pins for the SPI connection) and now want to use these on an SKR 1.4? I had to clip them off because I used them previously on a RAMPS but now I'd like to use them on my new board, if possible without soldering new pins to the bottom of the drivers. Is it possible to do some wiring as it is done on the ramps and what do I have to do with the jumpers then?
On a 1.4 check this out. github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-V1.3/blob/master/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4/Hardware/BTT%20SKR%20V1.4PIN.pdf
You can use the CLS pins below the driver with some jumper to the top of the driver. Also the diag pin you can run it over to the min endstop pin for sensorless homing.
You already know this, but this is exactly what I need. Thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Homing without sensor ! Who knew ? I'm still messing with the bltouch ! Where's that scratch build ?lol cool board and drivers ! Makes me want to buy more stuff. Cool video 👍😁👍🌞 .
It's like magic! Thanks!
@@ChrisRiley found out the jumper for the ramps 1.6 for the servos is by e0 header now after all this time I maybe can use BL touch lol😁👍
@@wishicouldarduino8880 Nice!
@@ChrisRiley hate to be a bother lol but I just got some new stepper motors nema 17 42 steppers what is the difference between them and garden variety nema 17 1.8 angle motors it doesn't say much other than that except bi polar and such are they better motors ? I want to put them on the Frankenstein printer on the bot are they an upgrade from the pancake style motors I have now ? Thanks for any advice 👍😁
@@wishicouldarduino8880 Hey, not sure, can you send me a link to those and I will take a look.
If I'm using a TB600 dirver with SKR1.4, Should I connect the driver to the Closed Loop pins or to the normal driver pins?
Thanks for the vid!
Either one should work, I would go with the closed loop pins.
@@ChrisRiley Thanks for answering! Much appreciated :)
Putting tinned wire ends into screw blocks will guarantee a loose connection eventually. The solder will creep under pressure. Better twisted bare wire if you are not going to use ferrel crimps.
A great tip that can't be over stated.
@@ChrisRiley Its an electrical engineering 101 thing.
Hi Chris, Thanks for the very useful info. I am doing everything like you in the video, but the only thing that happens is to have after the firmware is loaded, the error err: MAXTEMP: bed. Doesn't matter if the thermistors are connected or not, the board stuck with that error. Any suggestions? Are 15 days I am looking around and no solution are given. Thank you
Sounds like maybe you have a short on the board or a pin that is off. It is sensing too high of a resistance. Check the solder joints on those pins. I would try to get another board.
@@ChrisRiley Hi Chris, thanks for the answer. I did a test. I changed, in pin file, the temp bed pin from 0_25 to 0_23(th1 pin) and commented the temp 1 pin. The error now is err: maxtemp: E1. I didn't expect that result, so I don't understand. I will send back the board, but this is the second defective board. After its success I except from BTT a better QC. Thank you
@@marioizzo4985 I wouldn't expect that either, QC is a bit sketchy.
@ChrisRiley i have followed your every step doing this but cant get the printer dailed in to print a decent first layer. Can we perhaps connect on a call
I don't have a lot of times for calls, but I can try to help you as time permits via email. brotherchris81@gmail.com
I have the 1.4 turbo I want to put it on a ender 5 with a BL touch, but I’m struggling with configuring marlin, i’m surprised people aren’t offering to set it up for $ because I bet there’s a lot of us struggling with that part of upgrading
Maybe it's because I do them all for free? LOL
@@ChrisRiley ok then I need one for a 1.4 turbo on an ender 5 with a BL Touch
@@1akmason Send me an email. brotherchris81@gmail.com
Chris, what a wonderful Tutorial. Thank you for this. My question:
is there a way to leave and activate the stock endstops , not use sensorless homin g, without having to cut off the diag pin?
Thank you
Unfortunately not that I know of. I know it's a bummer to clip the pins. You could get around it with some tricky edits in the pins file.
I did bend mine slightly outwards, and made sure nothing is touching
Hey Chris - this is a great video. Thanks for the amazing content. Curious if you would put together a tutorial on converting a 1.4 board to 24V? I am kinda stumped on how to elegantly drive a PWM 12v part cooling fan and other accessories...
Interesting thought. Probably swapping the fans would be about the same money as running converters.
Thank for the tutorial. I tried to go klipper but I just couldn't get it work so I went back to Marlin.
More Klipper to come. Hang in there!
Hi Chris,
Allow me to comment on the E0_AUTO_FAN_PIN P2_04 (line 422 Configuration_adv.h) I believe the EO fan is an "always on" connection. Only the part fan (PIN P2_03) is controllable to my knowledge. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
E0 is always on correct. I moved the fan to HE1, and used those pins.
Thanks Chris! Outstanding video.
Thanks!
Do I understand this correctly? Everytime you want to send a command to the printer you have to open the case and move the jumper if you were using mains?
No, you can still talk to the board USB with the jumper switch, USB just won't power up the board.
Thanks for the video, have a question: so I am installing this board onto a cr10s, the x,y,z switches are 2 wire terminal ends? could I connect it so either power and signal or ground and signal wire make the 2 connector work with the 3 pin configuration on the board?
looks like you can clip the left hand part of the white clip to make the 2 wire end fit into the 3 position pin on the 1.4, should work.
You can hook it up to just signal and ground, as you stated you might just have to get creative with the clip.
Chris, I keep coming back to your two videos as the bible for installing and perhaps more importantly, configuring the SKR 1.4T. I have found my sensorless X and Y can offset the build area/priming stripe from print to print. If i have them too sensitive that's no good, and not sensitive enough grinds the belt. I'm at like 90 for the X and 80 for the Y, using 2226 drivers. Your numbers were something like 14, etc. so very different from mine. Any guidance is appreciated. Also, I had an idea I don't know how to implement - I'd like to see the bed SSR LED in a remote spot - i thought about printing some sort of holder for a fiber or clear filament to transfer the light, or else wondered if there's a viable way to extend an LED from "somewhere" - any ideas? Thanks!
Hey Gary, on the sensorless homing, play around with feedrate and acceleration in your start gcode for homing, that can make it more accurate. Interesting thought on the SSR, It might be easier to just wire a new LED to the DC side and run it where you need it to go.
Ok, my anet a8 and ender 2 are out of commision, but i am certain i have enough working parts between the two to cobble a reprap together. i mean to order this board but got this one: BIGTREETECH SKR mini E3 V1.2 32Bit Control Board With TMC2209 UART Driver instead. When it gets here, I am hoping i can use your knowledge to get it to work. I also got a z motor splitter
Let me know, I can try and help.
@@ChrisRiley I will go through your relevant videos again, once i get it, and let you know if i have success
Hey, first of I oew you many thanks for providing such valuable information in such a detailed style. Secondly can you please guide me regarding the TMC connection error on my Lcd screen, I'm using SKR 1.4, 4 tmc 2209 drivers.
That has been an issue on these board, double check your jumpers are set correctly. If that doesn't correct it, you may have a bad board.
So editing the pins files is considered the proper way to rework things, and not just a hack that was the only way I could make it work? I had to move some things around for a delta config, felt dirty altering files other than Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h. Glad to hear it wasn't as much a Duck tape solution as I first thought!
Hey Scott, yeah, this is pretty much the only way to go. You can override a lot of pins in the config files as well, but I think the pins file rework is the way to go.
Just in Time ... Well done !!
Thanks Dan!
hey Chris thanks for that great 2 part video but please can you help me what screen do i choose for a tev tornado
I am pretty sure that is the reprap discount full graphics display.
@@ChrisRiley thanks man im having so much trouble with this tornado i hate it!!!! I cant get the screen to load
How did you determine the Z, E0 Axis Steps Per Unit? T8 Lead Screw Pitch 2MM Lead 4MM, pursa calculator doesnt have a 2mm Pitch preset.(My guess was 800) Not sure how to guess for the extruder (E0) no calculator on the pursa site for that (How did you come up with 140???)
Yes, if it is a TR8X4 then it will be 800. E steps have to be calibrated. ua-cam.com/video/r0GiAmZiQBE/v-deo.html
I just got this board and I really need some help with the sensorless stuff. :( I'm really at a loss here, and I am also wondering; Can I flash the rom on this without any motors connected to it? Will that ruin it?
For some reason, our channel got a bunch of comments recently that are over a year old. I hope you got your issue solved. We didn't purposely ignore you. Thanks for watching!
hi Chris i have a question if you could answer. After a short circuit of print cooling fan cables my board became unusable. q3 ligth is on and red ligth is not turning on. İs this a dead end or could it be saved. I changed the fuses by the way nothing works. Appriciate if you can help.
That usually means the voltage regulator got cooked, not sure you can save it.
This is a great video, but where can I find those connectors you used for the power wiring? I am not using the right search term I guess?
These are them. www.amazon.com/Ferrule-Crimping-Tool-Kit-0-08-10mm%C2%B2/dp/B07K17VDF2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=ferrels+wire&qid=1594264654&sr=8-2
Great work. But I have a question. How do you compile a source code file that doesn't have the project file included. I have a Sovol 3d printer. They have firmware Marlin source code and .hex file but no io project file. I need to change my thermistor pins from 13 to 15 and recompile the .hex. Any thoughts
Thanks! There is no way to back out like this. You will need to find the source project.