Screwfix No Nonsense Danish Oil Review
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2018
- If you have questions, please read all the comments. They're not just nonsense, I promise. There are lots of relevant questions which I've answered to the best of my knowledge. Thanks!
Also, please be aware that this the tin states this oil is not suitable for use on oak. I've used it plenty on oak with good results and can't fathom why they recommend against it, but if you choose to do so I take no responsibility for the results!
‘on this corner a hot cup of tea is placed every day’ never was a more british sentence ever said aloud
British and proud!!
@@woodthaticould4432 cheers to that pal
Cheers for that , I bought a expensive one but will now switch to this one future projects
Your recommendation did me well, refinished a nice oak desk and it came up an actual treat with that oil
Glad to hear it!
Thanks for this, the 'kitchen worktop' was the bit I was waiting for. Will try it on current kitchen oak tops this time as they need replacing, but if this then proves to be up to the job, I will switch from Howdens expensive and difficult to apply worktop oil.
Cheers
Great video, just went and bought myself a couple of tins than are on offer when buying two of them. Really finished my mdf mfr well, nicely darkens the wood and does a good job at protecting it from everyday use. Currently thinking of a good product to finish it a little more. I did use a little bit of wet dry sandpaper and some standard polish on final pass to clean up any little bits left as per the method used by the Suffolk Latch Company when they treated an oak door with danish oil. Both really good directions thank you
That's what I'll be buying next! As I use so little I went with Liberon at £10+ but if this is just as good and has that reduced gymming up feature it sounds like a win!
I've just used a load of clear decking oil on my new deck and it's worked well. £20 for 5l instead of £50+ for Ronseal.
Great stuff, and awesome to hear the cows, my woodwork shop is in the old piggery... you can hear the cows there too!
you can hear cows in the old piggery? hrmmm
Just found your channel - so funny, yesterday I used this very oil to treat some Danish teak side tables. Very nice finish. looks very nice after 2 coats. I paint it on and then leave for 10 minutes, then wipe off excess.
I was thinking about buying this exact Danish oil but had reservations about it, then bought it on the back of your review.
And its excellent, exactly as you described. It does say on the tin "do not use on oak expecially green oak" but I had no problems applying to white oak and gives a superb finish.
Good to hear it's worked out for you! I've got it on all the oak in my bathroom, so it gets wet and wiped often, and after 10 months it is good as new. It would be interesting to know why they say not to use on oak.
Great video just confirmed my feelings about no nonsense Danish oil I restore mid century furniture and I find this product brilliant big thumbs up to the product and it saves us money.
Thanks for that! Yeah I reckon a lot of no nonsense stuff, be it screwfix or anywhere else, is just as good as the more expensive brands.
Your tip inspired me to sand down the mahogany rails which were left green and mouldy for 12 yrs. The danish oil works a treatwith a brush, after 4 coats by brush i finished with 600grit soaked in danish oil to give it a french palish effect. Im so happy with the result. Thanks.
Sounds like a good lockdown project, good on you!
@@woodthaticould4432 unfortunately the marina on lockdown too so cant get near the boat. Your recommendation of screwfix was perfect. Stay safe and well during these difficult times. Many thanks. Chris.
I believe Danish oil is basically a mix of oil and thinners so I guess Screwfix maybe add more thinners than some other brands but that’s no bad thing at all. I utterly hate the smell of BLO so I always use Danish oil instead. Good review and I’ll be using that No Nonsense stuff from now on. Cheers for the video 👍🏻
Thanks this is just was I was looking for, we bought some B&Q Lemhi scaffold boards and made shelves bath panel cabinet base and mirror wall.. they look great natural but wanted to protect and finish them, I think I’m certain I’ll use this Danish oil now for the job
Good choice!
Was looking at this stuff this morning, saw your video and ordered it. Subbed also.
Thank you sir!
Thank you for a very informative and interesting video with great tips, very well explained and presented.
Take care
Sam
Thanks Sam, much appreciated!
@@woodthaticould4432 That’s no problem, I make knife scales and I have tried different oils, over time and after watching your video, I think this should do a great job.
Thanks again
Sam
Yeah that'll work nicely I would think.
Very informative. Thank you for posting.
No problem!
I really appreciate your video. I need to finish 4 gifts next week
Great video, thanks!
A sensible priced tin of Danish oil, and I'm grateful for the advice. I tend to put two or three coats of Danish oil on - rubbing gently between coats with fine steel wool, as it seems to last longer on wood outdoors. By the way, I think I can hear your misses calling in the background.
Yup, minimum of 2 coats, 3 or more if it's in a wet or outdoor area. I just give a gentle rub with 320 grit between coats, steel wool also works though! Don't think that was my missus, you'd have seen me react if it was!
@@woodthaticould4432 Cheers, I was teasing you slightly on that moo-ing noise in the background.
Nice video been to screwfix now done table perfect thanks
I came by it in screwfix and used it ever since.
Thanks for the Vid, could it be it doesn't get sticky because it's full of solvent, resins etc with hardly any tung or linseed oil...
Hi
I know this is an old review. Can I ask whether you would use danish on an oak river table. If so would you buff into the wood and resin. Would it build up a layer on the resin. I ask because it seems a lot easier to get a good result rather than the long process and cure of osmo
Thanks
Simon
Really helpful thank you
I do find the Liberon stuff quite sticky, previously used the Colron stuff for years which is good.
Thank you.. my 1st project..
Thanks for the video it is really helpful! How often do you have to reapply the oil to avoid the water soaking in around the sink? Thanks
No problem! It totally depends on how much use the surface gets and what you use to clean it. You'll feel the difference and see a colour difference if you're wearing through the oil. If in doubt, give it a light rub with 320 grit or similar and reapply.
thank you great video
You're welcome!
How do you hide screws in a mdf box? Love the primer video with the magnifying glass!
Thanks! I countersink and then fill. You will probably have to fill twice for a perfect result.
I notice on the lable it states not for use on oak any idea why?
Would this be suitable to use on the new oak stair rails and balustrade I’ve just had fitted? They’re untreated at present.
As mentioned elsewhere in the comments, it says not to use on oak, but I have with good results (bathroom furniture, my house!) and all other danish oil can be used on oak.
quick question - have you tried the Lye treatment? This is the slight acid they use in sweden / denmark to prevent wood for darkening over time. If so, can you lye the wood and then use danish oil? have you ever used danish oil for floors?
Hi, I haven't used lye, but I imagine you would oil after treatment. Don't take my word for it though. Danish us ok on floors, but not hard enough for high traffic with shoes on, and you have to be careful what you wash it with, everyday floor cleaners will strip the oil out pretty fast. Bona do a range of wax oils, they also do a white tinted one which looks really good when applied right. Good luck!
@@woodthaticould4432 You should try the lye next time you are doing a pine or oak project. The lye is not a stain or dye - it simply prevents the wood from discolouring with exposure to air. I did some pine floorboards with lye, and then finished with a traditional soap finish, and they look fantastic.
Thanks for the video! Bought 2 bottles for a project.. Quick amateur question, should I be sanding in between the coats?
Yes, with about 320 grit, just to take down any raised grain. Gently does it, especially on edges and corners, you don't want to wear through to bare timber.
@@woodthaticould4432 Thanks!
Hey great video.
I've got some pine ivar ikea storage shelving going up in the garage, can I just apply 2 coats of this after going over the knots with a knot sealer?
Regards
Yup sure thing, that will protect them. No need to seal the knots, you only need to do that if you're going to paint. Get to it!
Excellent video... Daisy likes it too!
Haha! Yeah MOOO!
@@woodthaticould4432 :) indeed! On a serious note, on the strength of your review and demo, I've just ordered some of that oil for some birch faced ply cabinets that I've made. I was thinking an Osmo oil, but at £5.99 a can (it's gone down in price) thought I'd try the danish first.
My bannisters and spindles are birch ply and treated with danish oil, look great after 6 months! Look for wood that I could on Facebook for pics if you want a look!
Hi, is the Oil a Natural finish or coloured please? Am looking at treating an oak bannister and I want it to look antique. Regards. Paul.
It's a natural finish, it darkens the wood slightly as all finishes will but not enough to make it look 'antique' . B&Q have a range of coloured oils which would do the job. Good luck!
I’m about to put oak slats on an old cast iron bench and was wondering what would be best to finish it. Would this be suitable for outdoor furniture?
Yes it's great for outdoors. Make sure to really soak the end grain!
I’ve just had a glass cabinet made. The wood is pine and untreated. Any suggestions of how I can avoid all the glass. It would take ages to cover with masking tape and I need to apply Danish oil inside and out.Any helpful advise would be appreciated.
I would just apply carefully and not worry too much. You can use a new Stanley blade or similar to remove any oil from the glass when it has dried, first scoring around the outside of each pane, then using the blade on its edge as a scraper. Or mask! It might be time consuming to mask, but it's technically much easier. Good luck!
I’ve been advised to put 3 or 4 coats of Danish Oil on my new woodworking workbench, is this good advice? It’s only a very small lightweight bench primarily for picture frames.
Hi Mark, there's really no such thing as too many coats of Danish, but I would say that many isn't strictly necessary on something that isn't going to get wet or be repeatedly washed, such as a kitchen worktop. I would say do at least 2, and as many as you can be bothered with. The great thing about Danish is that if you think it needs more, you just give it a gentle sanding with 240 grit or higher, then add more coats.
Wood That I Could That makes total sense, it won’t be a forever coating and I can add more anytime. Thank you.
Hi Can i use this on internal doors?
Would this oil be OK to use an oak beam beam which is fixed to the wall above my log burner.
No reason why not, I've used it on a green oak mantle piece with good results.
Why does it say not recommended on oak
I've just put up some 8mm pine tounge and groove internal cladding from Wickes. Do you think this would be okay to treat it? Because it's so thin I'm worried about warping. Thanks for the video 👍
Ideally you would have oiled it before installation, but what's ideal in this day and age?! It should be OK as long as its not in a place that will experience big rapid swings in heat/humidity.
@@woodthaticould4432 Thanks for that. I'm trying to get it done because I've got a week off work and already lost 3 days leaving it to acclimatise. The room is kept warm at all times so hopefully it'll be okay. Once again thanks for the advice. 😊
No worries. Good luck!
Hi, Thanks for this video. I’m going to sand the wooden worktops that are in my kitchen & after watching your video I’m going to use this Danish oil from screwfix. My question is when applying the oil to the worktops what should I use? I’ve seen so many different videos with cloths, a sponge the one with the green rough side (obvs just using the sponge) a paintbrush. I’m so very confused. I’m wanting whatever is easiest as I’ve never done this before & im terrified of messing my worktops up. I’ve sanded loads of times so I’m confident with that. Also another question is. I don’t really want a high gloss finish or a mega shine on the worktops. Will this Danish oil leave one or does it not give too much of a shine off? Thank you in advance. Great video 😊
Don't worry, danish us pretty much foolproof! On a worktop, I would pour out a good glug and spread it around with paper towel. Or you could use a paintbrush. Or a sponge! My point is it makes no difference to the final finish what you apply with, so use what feels most comfortable to you. I use paper towel to wipe off after leaving for 10 mins or so (maybe less in this weather!). The only way you can mess it up is to leave a puddle of oil to dry out, which will turn into a sticky mess and need scraping or sanding off. Danish leaves a fairly Matt finish unless you polish it. Good luck!
Wood That I Could Thank you so much for your reply. I will give it a go 😊
Is this ok to use on kitchen worktops? I’ve read that it’s not food safe? Great video btw!
Safe! I Always use it on kitchen tops.
Thank you for your video, really helpful. So I’ve applied the danish oil as recommended on an exterior oak door and it looks really patchy! I’m on my second coat. Not sure what to do now, whether to continue to apply more coats or sand back. Can you offer any guidance or advice? I’m not sure what I’ve done wrong. If helpful I have photos I could send of the door. Please help! Thanks
Was it treated before and you sanded it? If so, most likely us that you've sanded off the old treatment in some patches but not in others, which means the Danish won't sink in.
Wood That I Could thank you for your response apologies for the delay, it was treated but 10-15 years ago. The door had been neglected and no further treatment has been put on, it was dirty so I washed the door first with some netrol then sanded a couple of times, first with an 80 grit then a 120 grit. The door was clean, smooth and looked in good condition. It was only when I added the danish oil that the finish started to look patchy. So you think it still could be the case that I haven’t sanded the old treatment off enough?
Yes, if it didn't look patchy after sanding I would suspect the original finish (probably varnish?) . It stops the oil sinking in and produces a different colour. You might also have noticed those patches weren't as thirsty as the rest of it, ie the oil didn't sink in as much or as fast. That said, maybe it was always patchy? Could you live with it?? I've saved a lot of work when refurbing things by just accepting that they aren't perfect, but if you're getting a solid timber door for a few hours work and some inexpensive materials, maybe that's ok? Good luck!!
After sanding the wood, what should I wipe the wood down with prior to oiling?
Just vacuum, brush, blow, paper towel wipe etc. You're going to sand high grit between coats anyway so if there's a small amount of fine dust I haven't noticed the finish is any less good.
Hi there great vid. I just wanted know how this oil would work on treated timber sleepers not oak. I’ve already used roxil wood cream on them last year. What would I need to do to the sleepers before applying the oil?
I'm not familiar with roxil wood cream, but i see it is silicone based which might mean the oil won't sink in, i would try a small patch on an out if sight bit to make sure it a: sinks in properly and b: doesn't go a funny colour. Silicone in general is well known for not playing nicely with others.
Thanks for the quick reply. I’ll get some oil and give it a bash on a small patch and get back to you with my results.
Looking forward to it!
Looks lovely. Can I use this on outdoor garden furniture? I notice No Nonsense also do a dedicated garden furniture oil but not sure which would have the nicest effect on the wood?
I believe Danish gives more of a coating, outdoor furniture oil would sink in and vanish. Danish would be my preferred finish, but can start to look scabby after a couple of years.
@@woodthaticould4432 excellent, thanks for the reply. I’ll go with the danish and keep it topped up every season 👍
Hi would you recommend using this on sanded floor boards?
We did use varnish originally but it chipped so I am sanding them again and not sure what product to use
Hi, if it's socks only with low traffic then yes, but be careful what you wash it with. High traffic will need a floor oil or wax oil such as those made by Bona.
Thank you! Which would you recommend? Hard waxoil or a floor oil? It will be for an entrance hallway so heavy traffic plus a dog that jumps about.
Hard wax oil definitely, bona do a high traffic version which is what you need with a doggo I reckon. It's not cheap, but it is good and it's easier to refinish than varnish if it gets damaged. Good luck!
Good to know
Do we varnish after or before the Danish Oil or is the Danish Oil a finisher?
Thanks
Also are all danish oil transparent and clear?
Hi! The Danish oil is the finish. All that I have seen are translucent, some have a colour so will change the colour of the wood but not hide the grain and character.
@@woodthaticould4432 Thanks
Hi, can I use the no nonsense oil on softwood treated sleepers? Thanks
It depends what they've been treated with. You'll just have to try a bit and see if it works!
Hi, just wondering if you or anyone has tried the 'no nonsense quick dry varnish clear'? I want to put some varnish on an old drawer but can't decide what varnish to go for
I have used it. It seems to be fine, although it is definitely a matt finish and has a slight texture to it.
@@woodthaticould4432 thanks for the reply. Think screwfix sells it in gloss or satin aswell. I was gonna go for a satin look but can't decide between the no nonsense varnish or the ronseal quick dry varnish 🤔 . I dont have much clue about varnish 🙈
Take your pick! The most important thing is that you follow the instructions.
Hi Thanks for a good video.I have a 60 year old oak garden bench that I am stripping back to bare wood I am going to try some oxalic acid in an attempt to reduce the black water marks here and there. Initially I was drawn to using Tung oil but after reading several articles and yt videos I am now totally confused. I would appreciate your views on Tung oil v Danish oil. Say good morning to the cows
With regards to how they will react with oxalic acid, I have no idea. Just generally, I believe Danish will leave more of a 'skin' whereas tung sinks in and doesn't leave much on the surface. I think Danish would be cheaper than tung. Either will protect your bench from the elements, don't sweat it too much! Perhaps somebody with direct experience of one vs the other will weigh in?.....
Can this be used over rust-oleum ash grey weathered paint?
I can't say for sure, you'll need to test on a discreet area and see what happens. Report back when you find out!
Hi. Would this be suitable for use on new external sapele gates? If so should any other product such as fungicide be used first?
Sorry for the slow response. I don't think there's any need for fungicide, the oil will seal the timber. Should work well on the gates, plenty of coats so it lasts though. Good luck!
@@woodthaticould4432 It looks great and rain just rolls off. Thanks.
Oh great stuff! Thanks for sharing!
can danish oil be overcoated with any type of sealer or varnish?
I imagine it could be if you rough it up first, but it doesn't need sealing. If it's already been oiled but need refinishing, I would just reapply oil. Unless it's in a situation where Danish was a bad idea in the first place in which case sand it back and Varnish away. It is just my opinion that this would work, I've never tried it.
Hi, is this oil suitable for use on a dining table that has been stained with water-based dye (littlefair's to be exact) Thankyou 😊
I'd expect it to work fine, give it a good sand up to at least 240 grit first.
@@woodthaticould4432 thankyou very much for your speedy response. I bought some yesterday but have read mixed opinions but I'll get on with it now today! Do I need to seal with anything afterwards or will it be okay as it is? Many thanks again!
No need for anything else, I'd recommend at least 3 coats on the top. Good luck!
Hi, great video,
Wondering if this could be used on a grey or colour stained wood.
Creating a bath tray and wondered what I can use to seal/waterproof?
As long as the stain doesn't make the wood impermeable. If you haven't stained already, you can add oil based paint to the Danish before application, I quite often do that with white paint.
@@woodthaticould4432 impermeable? It's a water based stain, a very light tub on with a rag?
I just mean that when you say 'stain', it could be en exterior stain that protects against rain, in which case the Danish wouldn't penetrate as the stain has made a barrier. Best practice here is to stain a bit if scrap, then see if the Danish sinks in and gives a good finish.
The Wilco own brand Dansih Oil seems ok too.
Thanks for the tip, how does the price compare?
I like the natural colour of untreated oak and I have new internal doors and I would like to stop them drying out. Any ideas on what oil to use to nourish them that will not change the natural colour in the process?
Anything you treat them with will change the colour, even untreated they will darken significantly over time. Danish oil is probably the best bet.
@@woodthaticould4432 Thank you so much for taking the time to answer my querie.
No problem, knowledge is free, right?
Do you happen to know how this oil would work on beech?
It would work very well on beech, bringing out all that lovely grain. Test on a piece of scrap to see whether the final colour is what you want, it will darken it slightly.
Hi mate just bought this after watching the video, on the back of the box it say not suitable for oak especially green Oak have u had any issues ? Need to do 15 kitchen doors American white oak don't want to f***k it up thanks
I'm so sorry, I didn't see this comment! I assume it's too late now. I use it on oak all the time, not had any problems at all. Not tried on green oak though. Good spot in the small print though!
@@woodthaticould4432 hi thanks for the reply I haven't made the oak doors yet ,I just bought the Rustin's brand that has no disclaimer but I did try on a piece of oak 3 coats had no issues as of yet !!! Strange they say not to use it ,I did ask the question on Screwfix product review part they also replied not suitable for oak
How is this for kitchen countertops? Not so protective as poly, but how often does it require a new coat?
I've had it in mine under the hob for 3 years and it's still looking good although the sink is on laminated worktop. The sink is always the bit that will need re doing first and how long it lasts depends on how you look after it. If you are likely to leave it wet all the time it will suffer. The worst is leaving an object on the wet surface so it can't dry, it really doesn't like that. Tldr: if you're going to wipe up after you use the sink, a few years at least. If you're a water spilling cup leaving cloth shunning monster, maybe a year if you're lucky. That said, it is MUCH easier to recoat Danish than poly.
@@woodthaticould4432 great thanks!
@@woodthaticould4432 The monster I’m worried about is my wife lol.
Ha!!
What type of shine does it have after drying?
It's a satiny matt sort of thing!
I bought some of this and i cant get rid of the smell from my bedroom furniture, i have read it can be poisonous to inhale.
It can take a while to stop smelling, but I am sure it's not dangerous to inhale. Leave windows open as much as possible and the smell will diminish. Don't worry!
Hi there thanks for this brilliant video. I have just done my floor in my bedroom after doing a lot of research. however, someone has now suggested that it is not safe for my new baby to be in the house! I don’t suppose you have any advice please! We are staying elsewhere at the moment but we’re planning to move back in in about 4 days after airing the house once it is cured.
I'm neither a scientist nor a doctor, but I would be happy to let my babies roll around on a newly oiled floor after 4 days of curing. I don't know the science, but I would think the vast bulk of the 'bad stuff' would be gone by then. I mean like 99.99%. The solvents are really only there to allow application and facilitate curing. Plus, health and safety laws being what they are, there's no way they'd be able to sell something that remains hazardous for 4 days after its applied. Let the bub smash their toys against your newly finished floor!
@@woodthaticould4432 thank you so much!for replying so quickly! And for this video you have saved me a small fortune!
@@helly4530 happy to hear it! Share the knowledge!!
@@woodthaticould4432 oh I have! No joke my friend and I were talking about this video last week 😂
Is this any good for external use?
Sure thing!
How is working on pine wood? Did anyone used on it?
Works great!
Did you use a clear version ? Or one with colouring in it?
Yes, it was clear, they don't do colours!
Danish oil is not really clear. It has a amber tinge. It's very subtle but build up the layers and it can get quite dark.
The screwfix own brand oil might be cheaper than the premium brand Screwfix sell, but it is still way more expensive than other places. I have just bought 5l of Barrettine Danish oil for £29 with free delivery, that works out at £2.90 for the same quantity Screwfix want £6.99 for.
Online is always cheapest, of course. But the waiting.......!
Can this be used on an outdoor bench?
Sure thing! Get oiling!!
Seen the ‘not food safe’ disclaimer.. would you say a no go for a off cut chopping board?
That's a question for sure! I wouldn't use Danish for a chopping board. To be honest I wouldn't really treat a wooden chopping board, it's going to get washed in such harsh detergent that it'll strip the oil right out of it anyway. Coconut oil is a good choice, or anything that is food safe that won't go rancid (so not olive, veg, sunflower etc) but does it need treating at all? There have been studies showing that wood is more hygienic than plastic, Google it. But yeah, Danish is not the right option.
@@woodthaticould4432 much appreciated! Looks like I’m sanding it back down to the wood & wood alone! 😁
Get sanding my man!
@@woodthaticould4432
Thanks. This answers my, unasked, question.
Helloo from Chester!
Hello yourself!
no one tells you about the tea on the other finishes thumbs up.
It's important! FYI getting on for 2 years now and it still looks good as new.
First class
could you do a bass guitar with this
Assuming it's made of some sort of timber, yes you can. If it has been varnished or lacquered that will all need sanding off first. Good luck!
@@woodthaticould4432 thank you !
Hi sounds good, can this be used on exterior red cedar do you know?
Yes, it can, but cedar doesn't necessarily need any treatment. It goes a lovely silver colour if left untreated. Also worth considering is boiled linseed oil which doesn't leave a surface finish in the same way as Danish. Danish will end up looking weathered and need a sand and recoat, linseed you can just blodge on more. Good luck!
Can somebody tell me where can I buy this online, I’m danish and I really like a bottle that says “danish oil” on my shelf.
And for sure it CAN catch fire, it has linseed oil in it, and linseed oil can catch fire when it’s on a fabric and exposed to air. But here it’s a mix and I have only seen it with pure linseed oil. But trust me be careful with that shit, it only have to happen once, and you workshop is gone!
I just store the wipes in a small metal container on a concrete floor, away from anything flammable, just in case. .
Basically all wood oil is called Danish Oil in the UK, just as kanelsnegle is called Danish...
Hi there, sorry, I missed your comment. What do they call Danish oil in Denmark?? Just oil I suppose, the same as Brazil nuts are just called nuts in Brazil! I don't know who would send internationally, I can send you an empty tin if you would like. Look for wood that I could on Facebook and message me your address!
Wood That I Could dude, you are are really nice, but I don’t have Facebook, I’m one of the few! But I really like that my small country made it as a name on your oil😂 but if there’s another way I’d be happy to pay the mailing! Sorry for my bad English.
And I would prefer a full bottle, I will pay off course! But could be interesting to compare with my own “danish oil”, that should be real danish oil, made and used in Denmark!
I don’t really know the correct word for it. But it’s just linseed oil mixed with some kind of lacker, I can’t remember which? But here we don’t even have a name close to it, and I have no idea what to compare it with.
I know a lot of boat owners that use boiled linseed oil mixed with some kind of lacker(forgot witch) and they use on decks and so.
Haha! I'd be happy to send a full bottle after Christmas! Email me your address on charley@woodthaticould.co.uk and we'll get it sorted. Ingen fara alls med språket, det funkar bra! Swedish is pretty close to Danish, right?!
12 quid now 😢
Tea in the bathroom !?
Not just in the bath room, but in the actual bath! Every single day!
You should get a job on TV DIY. Excellent presentation no stupid background base music, no wobbly video or dodgy audio, a clear spoken voice - not intimidating tradesmen slang and not too posh. Nice one !