I like the music not really intrusive, but adds interest. Interesting video that I will probably be coming back to but laying any cork I use before I mark up. 🙂
I use caulk too. You have to make sure it's the Acrylic version, not the Silicone suff. Holds the track really well and also gives a little bit of sound dampening. Track is reasonably easy to remove, with a spatula, if it needs to come up again. Unlike PVA it doesn't damage the baseboards when removing track.
Coming together nicely George. Interesting comment on exaggerated curves. I've noticed the opposite applies to trees, where even a scale 10m tall tree can look ridiculously large. Ever played with that Templot track software? I've tried (and failed miserably) multiple times. 😞
Thanks. Yes trees are an interesting one, if you model them to scale, they look wrong, but I think that’s to do with how we perceive them from the ground looking up. It’s a fine balance to make a layout look correct, as it doesn’t always work making it to scale!
Charlie over at Chadwick uses Copydex too. I’m in the US so I had never heard of the stuff. The stuff I’ve been using is a tube of caulk. DAP (brand?) Alex Painters Acrylic Latex Caulk is what I’ve used for n scale. I squeeze some out with the caulk gun thing and smear it with a bit of card, put the track on top, and hold it down somehow. After a night, it’s pretty well stuck, but I can still raise it up if I need to, but the caulk substance usually ends up sticking to the track and being a paint to clean off. Does this seem similar to the Copydex? I just wonder if it’s worth giving it a shot, if for no other reason than to learn what this so called fishy smell is.
Oh that’s good to know, same techniques as the big boys! Love his work. Whatever you’re using sounds like a good alternative to copydex..but dont feel like you’re missing out on the smell
That nice book "Talyllyn and Corris Steam Locomotives:Volume 1 Pre Preservation and Manufacturers bt Martin Fuller" which you are using just as a dead weight on those gluey boards is £130 nowadays; if you can find one . . . The 1988 JIC Boyd book "The Talyllyn Railway" is very good as well. Have you got one of those too ? I bet you use it as a step.
Yes I’m aware of their prestige, I bought mine when they were first released, and are no where near ‘as new’ quality, as I constantly have them open on the workbench!
No pattern makers dowels (or similar) to keep the board joint alignment accurate? I always fit those first, lay the track across the board joint, solder to brass screws to secure it, and only then cut it through. Use a piece of card temporarily between the board joint if you want to end up with minimum gap after cutting. The oldest parts of my N gauge exhibition layout were constructed 28 years ago. I used the above approach and all board joints are still 100% secure and accurate after well over 100 assembly/breakdown cycles.
Yes it’s got alignment dowels, I did them during the baseboard building video a couple of weeks ago, and laid the track with it connected up, so when I put the track bases back on, they will be in the same place..hopefully!
Thanks. Well I wanted to model the Talyllyn, and originally was going to do Dolgoch station and viaduct, but it’s been done a few times. Also any station apart from Nant Gwernol and Wharf would require two fiddle yards, so this was a good option!
Is there a reason you’re covering the entire wooden baseboard with cork, instead of only under the tracks, which seems more traditional? Apologies for the noob question!
No, and too be honest, I rarely use cork anyway. I just thought it would make life easier when adding the hillside behind as it’s on a level plain. Remember cork is only useful if you don’t use nails through it, as that ruins the sound deadening effect
@@GWilliamsonModels thanks for the reply, I think I’ll stick with uncorked XPS foam for now and hopefully glue will not utterly destroy the surface if I move tracks later on…
Beautiful music and a great sense of humour. Looking forward to the development of your layout. Hope you find enough time to get this done.
Thanks, me too 😂
I like the music not really intrusive, but adds interest. Interesting video that I will probably be coming back to but laying any cork I use before I mark up. 🙂
I hope the video helps you with your own project!
Another great video cheers mate, really useful
Thanks, glad you enjoy the videos
And Very well done with this layout
Thankyou, it’s coming together slowly
I use caulk too. You have to make sure it's the Acrylic version, not the Silicone suff. Holds the track really well and also gives a little bit of sound dampening. Track is reasonably easy to remove, with a spatula, if it needs to come up again. Unlike PVA it doesn't damage the baseboards when removing track.
That sound a good idea, and easy to get hold of wherever you live aswell
Huzzah! another video. AND its in HD too! Thankyou!! I wont get massive headaches anymore!!
You’re welcome
Can you do a vedeo showing all your layouts please
Yes I will do at some point
Coming together nicely George. Interesting comment on exaggerated curves. I've noticed the opposite applies to trees, where even a scale 10m tall tree can look ridiculously large.
Ever played with that Templot track software? I've tried (and failed miserably) multiple times. 😞
Thanks. Yes trees are an interesting one, if you model them to scale, they look wrong, but I think that’s to do with how we perceive them from the ground looking up.
It’s a fine balance to make a layout look correct, as it doesn’t always work making it to scale!
Charlie over at Chadwick uses Copydex too. I’m in the US so I had never heard of the stuff. The stuff I’ve been using is a tube of caulk. DAP (brand?) Alex Painters Acrylic Latex Caulk is what I’ve used for n scale. I squeeze some out with the caulk gun thing and smear it with a bit of card, put the track on top, and hold it down somehow. After a night, it’s pretty well stuck, but I can still raise it up if I need to, but the caulk substance usually ends up sticking to the track and being a paint to clean off. Does this seem similar to the Copydex? I just wonder if it’s worth giving it a shot, if for no other reason than to learn what this so called fishy smell is.
Oh that’s good to know, same techniques as the big boys! Love his work.
Whatever you’re using sounds like a good alternative to copydex..but dont feel like you’re missing out on the smell
That nice book "Talyllyn and Corris Steam Locomotives:Volume 1 Pre Preservation and Manufacturers bt Martin Fuller" which you are using just as a dead weight on those gluey boards is £130 nowadays; if you can find one . . .
The 1988 JIC Boyd book "The Talyllyn Railway" is very good as well. Have you got one of those too ? I bet you use it as a step.
Yes I’m aware of their prestige, I bought mine when they were first released, and are no where near ‘as new’ quality, as I constantly have them open on the workbench!
Cool.
Cheers
No pattern makers dowels (or similar) to keep the board joint alignment accurate? I always fit those first, lay the track across the board joint, solder to brass screws to secure it, and only then cut it through. Use a piece of card temporarily between the board joint if you want to end up with minimum gap after cutting.
The oldest parts of my N gauge exhibition layout were constructed 28 years ago. I used the above approach and all board joints are still 100% secure and accurate after well over 100 assembly/breakdown cycles.
Yes it’s got alignment dowels, I did them during the baseboard building video a couple of weeks ago, and laid the track with it connected up, so when I put the track bases back on, they will be in the same place..hopefully!
OK, it just seemed the boards weren't locked together when you were demonstrating cutting and laying across the join.
Another great video George, but I have a question, what made you chose Nant Gwernol?
If you look at the layout planning video, you can see the reasons 👍
Thanks. Well I wanted to model the Talyllyn, and originally was going to do Dolgoch station and viaduct, but it’s been done a few times. Also any station apart from Nant Gwernol and Wharf would require two fiddle yards, so this was a good option!
@@GWilliamsonModels that makes sense and will you take this to exhibitions, I’m sure lots of people (including me) would love to see it!
@@OWpictures1450 I’m planning on it mate, I’ll keep you updated when it’s booked into some
@@GWilliamsonModels cheers
Can. You build a custom narrow guage loco of my design
I’m not currently taking commission work sorry, I’m far too busy with this and teaching!
Здравствуйте!
Отличное видео. Подскажите пожалуйста, марку рельсов и какая ширина колеи?
It’s ’peco 009 mainline flexitrack’
Благодарю!🤝
Is there a reason you’re covering the entire wooden baseboard with cork, instead of only under the tracks, which seems more traditional? Apologies for the noob question!
No, and too be honest, I rarely use cork anyway. I just thought it would make life easier when adding the hillside behind as it’s on a level plain.
Remember cork is only useful if you don’t use nails through it, as that ruins the sound deadening effect
@@GWilliamsonModels thanks for the reply, I think I’ll stick with uncorked XPS foam for now and hopefully glue will not utterly destroy the surface if I move tracks later on…
I do like a bit of 1812 but you missed the best bit, the guns you need longer videos,lol
Quite right
Which track are you using?
This is ‘peco mainline 009 flexitrack’ and matching point work
@@GWilliamsonModels Thanks I get the feeling that Peco is best for any track...
"Fuming"😅 well done!!
I was fuming
Very tasty 😎👍
Glad you think so
you might wanna keep those tracks safe you wouldn’t want them to get damaged by a certain blue engine.
Yes quite right
Use a fine two way blade
Thanks