Hahha love your humor! Awesome you take suggestions and use the ones that will work for you. Now you got to learn anyrail. Remember your track plan will change a million times more. KUTGW!!
The suggestion about adding an industry at 2:25 is a good one. Some scenic elements in the foreground will make the mainline seem longer and more interesting. The advice about avoiding S curves is definitely sound. Those can be the bane of your existence forever. The panoramic view at the end of the video is excellent. I think you're going to have a great feeling of wide open space with this layout.
Really the best lift bridge I have seen. Well done Dave! If I had seen this before I started my swing bridge I would have gone with your design instead.
Hi Dave, not sure if you've heard about this but an easy way to prevent flex-track from dog-legging on curves is to stagger the joints by 3 or more inches. I generally shoot for 4 to 6 inches. Another great show! Geoff
The little guy on my shoulder says that tangent between reverse curves will handle 40 ft cars and maybe 50 ft. John Armstrong's book says that tangent shoud be equal to the truck spacing of the longest car you use on that loop. This probably is talking about body mounted couplers being standard. Old book, old ways but my bible all my model railroad life. I did cork as you described but screwed a single edge razor blade onto the bevel of a block of wood and shaped some cork. I got tired of that an then just attacked the upper corner with sandpaper and after ballasting it looks good. The ballast gives a natural slope. Enjoy oy your showand am very impressed with your lift bridge.
I like using DAP 230 in brown for laying cork and track. Works very well and you can lift back up with an exacto knife causing no damage to track and if careful, you can use cork again.
When I had those Atlas #8 turnouts, I found the frogs were so long, that powering them was a must. I used Tam Valley Frog Juicers. They work great. (There are other options, too.) Even my old Roundhouse 4 axle critter, whose wheelbase is shorter than the frog, had no problems
Hi Dave, with the flexi track , i power every one , and stager the joints , specially on the corners , it alot more work but makes for smoother running , im a little bit worried about the lift bridge, with the rail being unsupported, only time will tell I guess 🤔🤔🤔, don't forget to sand the cork before laying tracks,😎😎😎😎😎😎have a good one mate
Once you start putting the bevel on it, just use a sharp utility knife at an angle - that will do most of it pretty quickly. Sand the edges if you need to after that. I generally don't bother, as the ballast hides it all anyway. Also - if you use that low odour contact cement to hold down the cork, you won't need pins at all. But get rubber gloves if you do that. I didn't, and I was peeling glue from my fingers for a while. Gave me something to do in the evening...
Concerning Anyrail, I laid most of my track before I bought Anyrail 6. I am now going back and measuring everything to get a baseline for the layers, and any updates in the future. If I had done anyrail first, it would have fixed most of my s curve and too tight of bends in my track. Learn from my mistakes. Good video otherwise. Thanks for posting them.
Hi you might not need to cut a bevel edge to the cork as when you ballast the track it will give you a wider spread either side of track, then build it up with scenery!
Maybe a bit late now....but, you could have had only one reverse loop and on the other side you would have a huge space for a yard on the inside with very gentle curves on the mainline around the outside curving immediately off the bridge for scenic excellence.
Have you thought about adding a kill switch to several inches before either side of the bridge that kills the signal/power to the track so the train doesn't run off the the layout? I've seen several videos about it.
I did that the last time, but this time I drew it out first with a sharpie. I used a giant set of compasses to make the curves. The lines I draw are the centre lines for the track bed.
@@ScottRails I guess I'm thinking back to the old days of pre-set track lengths compared to now where tracks are cut to desired length. The only common things with set lengths are turnouts, etc. As for radius turns, I would guess a length of string could serve to plot the track curves as well?
Here's another video that you and your viewers might find helpful in making rail joints on lift-up sections of track: ua-cam.com/video/qq9hLRFzIYw/v-deo.html
I watched that video before, and it makes no sense. All he did was solder on some pcb strips to the ends of the rails. They are not joining the two sections of track.
Model railways or not I could listen to you for hours. Just love the humour. Of course, the railway is shaping up to be spectacular too! Great stuff.
Its the Scots accent we have apparently some just love to hear us talk, LOL
Hahha love your humor! Awesome you take suggestions and use the ones that will work for you. Now you got to learn anyrail. Remember your track plan will change a million times more. KUTGW!!
Sounds like a plan, and things seem to be moving along faster than expected.
Nice job, really enjoy watching this come along
Looks like a ton of fun, can't wait to see more.
The suggestion about adding an industry at 2:25 is a good one. Some scenic elements in the foreground will make the mainline seem longer and more interesting. The advice about avoiding S curves is definitely sound. Those can be the bane of your existence forever. The panoramic view at the end of the video is excellent. I think you're going to have a great feeling of wide open space with this layout.
Another great video. Making good progress. Thanks for sharing.
Great video... good work, good humor... looking great!
Looking good Dave, im slowly catching up on your updates.
Looking great already Dave, trains on the weekend - enjoy 😊😊
Really the best lift bridge I have seen. Well done Dave! If I had seen this before I started my swing bridge I would have gone with your design instead.
I love #Dundas Valley Hobbies! Visited regularly when my daughter was at MacMaster, and still make a trip now and then. Thank you for supporting them.
Great staff and huge inventory. I think it's worth paying a wee bit more, and they are local to me.
Sweeeeet! Like the whole lift bridge engineering, believe it would work great for my operation! BTW, love your choice of music! Carry on!🫡✌️
Great video. I like the changes you're gonna make.
Hi Dave, not sure if you've heard about this but an easy way to prevent flex-track from dog-legging on curves is to stagger the joints by 3 or more inches. I generally shoot for 4 to 6 inches.
Another great show!
Geoff
You could hide the 18 radius in a tunnel
Great video you are having fun!
Nice work Dave!
Looks good! Can't wait to see trains running
The little guy on my shoulder says that tangent between reverse curves will handle 40 ft cars and maybe 50 ft. John Armstrong's book says that tangent shoud be equal to the truck spacing of the longest car you use on that loop. This probably is talking about body mounted couplers being standard. Old book, old ways but my bible all my model railroad life.
I did cork as you described but screwed a single edge razor blade onto the bevel of a block of wood and shaped some cork. I got tired of that an then just attacked the upper corner with sandpaper and after ballasting it looks good. The ballast gives a natural slope. Enjoy oy your showand am very impressed with your lift bridge.
Good Job !!! Watch out for those "Dodgy" brown bags ...
Very Nicely Done Steady She Goes.
I like using DAP 230 in brown for laying cork and track. Works very well and you can lift back up with an exacto knife causing no damage to track and if careful, you can use cork again.
Nicely done,,thanks for sharing..
AnyRail is awesome. Still learning, but easier than the popular free program.
Most entertaining and informative. Thanks
btw Tiny Railroads only opens at noon on Friday, otherwise 10.a.m.
Yeah, and he stay open late on Fridays too. I just couldn't wait on this occasion.
Great but the used of curved turnout would help greatly
wuauuuu great job congratulations
Coming on fantastically great idea the way you have done the bridge looking forward to the next video
Great idea using them t- pins 👍
You can use the inner loop as a shoreline/ switching line. Grass between the rails, trees close to the track, lots of debris spread around the track.
Nice Dave . .
When I had those Atlas #8 turnouts, I found the frogs were so long, that powering them was a must. I used Tam Valley Frog Juicers. They work great. (There are other options, too.) Even my old Roundhouse 4 axle critter, whose wheelbase is shorter than the frog, had no problems
You really don't need the third #8 to bring the outer loop in. A #6 will do just fine, and save you some space for the #8's.
Hi Dave, with the flexi track , i power every one , and stager the joints , specially on the corners , it alot more work but makes for smoother running , im a little bit worried about the lift bridge, with the rail being unsupported, only time will tell I guess 🤔🤔🤔, don't forget to sand the cork before laying tracks,😎😎😎😎😎😎have a good one mate
I'm going to add some strength to the bridge. But ironically, the more structure, the more weight, and that leads to more sagging, lol.
Once you start putting the bevel on it, just use a sharp utility knife at an angle - that will do most of it pretty quickly. Sand the edges if you need to after that. I generally don't bother, as the ballast hides it all anyway. Also - if you use that low odour contact cement to hold down the cork, you won't need pins at all. But get rubber gloves if you do that. I didn't, and I was peeling glue from my fingers for a while. Gave me something to do in the evening...
Concerning Anyrail, I laid most of my track before I bought Anyrail 6. I am now going back and measuring everything to get a baseline for the layers, and any updates in the future. If I had done anyrail first, it would have fixed most of my s curve and too tight of bends in my track. Learn from my mistakes. Good video otherwise. Thanks for posting them.
Id keep the S bend and you have more room for a yard in the center
I wish you change your bench work so you could loose that 18 inch curve, need at least a 22 inch radius, 24 inch better
Hi you might not need to cut a bevel edge to the cork as when you ballast the track it will give you a wider spread either side of track, then build it up with scenery!
I'm liking this idea, lol.
Maybe a bit late now....but, you could have had only one reverse loop and on the other side you would have a huge space for a yard on the inside with very gentle curves on the mainline around the outside curving immediately off the bridge for scenic excellence.
Instead of an industrial area, how about a locomotive stabling and fueling facility?
Very nice idea, thanks.
6:07 oh no! The cork moves when you remove the bridge.
I thought I imagined that, but you are correct. I just checked it and it seams fine. Maybe it was too close anyway.
Thanks
Thanks again Peter. Please make sure you keep enough money to pay for your windows.
When do you sleep? Hopefully I can check out the train store in St. Catherines the next time I cross the border and visit my family.
I sleep quite a lot, just not in long stretches, lol.
Have you thought about adding a kill switch to several inches before either side of the bridge that kills the signal/power to the track so the train doesn't run off the the layout? I've seen several videos about it.
Yes I have. I'll use micro switches under the bridge.
@@ScottRails That’s exactly what I was talking aboot.
I could bevel on my table saw for you
Stupid question here but do you lay loosely the track first, mark the layout, then remove the track and install the track bed?
I did that the last time, but this time I drew it out first with a sharpie. I used a giant set of compasses to make the curves. The lines I draw are the centre lines for the track bed.
@@ScottRails I guess I'm thinking back to the old days of pre-set track lengths compared to now where tracks are cut to desired length. The only common things with set lengths are turnouts, etc. As for radius turns, I would guess a length of string could serve to plot the track curves as well?
Yes, I was going to use string and a pencil, but someone offered me the use of the giant compass thing, so went with that.
Here's another video that you and your viewers might find helpful in making rail joints on lift-up sections of track:
ua-cam.com/video/qq9hLRFzIYw/v-deo.html
I watched that video before, and it makes no sense. All he did was solder on some pcb strips to the ends of the rails. They are not joining the two sections of track.
When do you sleep? :0)
I have been power-napping recently. A couple hours here and there. I'm making up for lost time.
Nice!!