This comment is not so much for you (since you already have a great setup) but for anyone else reading this. Look into Dashboard Portable Workshop if you’re thinking of going down the MFT route. The system Rob invented is pretty much the Rolls-Royce of MFT Style benches. Definitely not cheap but the quality is A plus.
@@Benmeglei1 That one was on my radar prior to this build and if I had the money for something like it, I would have seriously considered going that route! Very impressive with excellent precision.
@@Benmeglei100 American for the table and 2500 American for the needed accessories make it a bad value. In Canada where we live that’s 5200 dollars…. Five mft setups
So when the saw lines get scored enough to replace the table top, why not route out a small area along the saw line. Route out to the dimension of thinner MDF and then have a replacement area that you can replace with the rest of the table remaining intact.
@@romanjohnston That's exactly what I'll do when the time comes, although after a year of light-to-moderate use I don't think that time will come any time soon. As long as I use the same dog setup to mount my rail the cut is in exactly the same spot.
Very nice. I built one very similar to yours partially based on the Hooked on Wood and Paulk designs. I used a friend's Parf guide system to align and drill the holes. The top is a torsion box made from 30mm and 19mm Valchromat that provides strength and flatness. It rests on an oak frame made of 3"x3" stock. It's 33"x60" and has an open shelf underneath for systainers. I have a variety of clamps and accessories including Bessey's new clamping elements that are currently unavailable in the US. I'm going to add a Turbo vise to the far end for hand plane work.
I know this is a year old video (and the only one I have watched- so far!) but rather than build an extension table that takes up a lot of real estate, I would consider either a flip up top on one end or a couple of drawer slides to support the auxiliary top from your table saw to use for longer sheets.
Thanks for watching! Funny enough, I haven't used the small auxiliary top I made butt he first time I do, I'm planning on mounting it so that it will flip up. Instead, I've just ended up using cheap extendable work supports/rollers that I can place wherever I want.
Nice MFT table build and thanks for sharing it with us! Did you see the simple (plywood + flush dogs) extensions Ron Paulk is using when he wants to cut full sheets on his small bencher? With those you only need to occupy the extra space for the time you need to break those sheets down, and keep the table in a smaller size for the other times. His smart cradle should also work great to add a jobsite sized table saw on one side of your table, and will give you a flat outfeed surface when you combine it with the extensions mentioned earlier.
Thanks for watching, Lukas! Big thanks for the recommendation on Ron Paull's extensions and cradle...those are EXACTLY what I need for my bench and they are much more space-saving than what I had planned.
If you do not want to go to the trouble of putting strips of wood in the cut places on your MFT you can use a powder you mix with water and put the paste in the kerfs. Line each side of the kerf with tape and it makes a very hard surface. Sand it down and you will be ready to go for a few more years of use.
Great update! I'm building two MFTs rather than one as well, for the same reason you will. Mine will be smaller though; probably two 2'x4' tables, also on casters of course. Accessories are definitely expensive, but most of them are buy once, lifetime purchases. So that ends up not being a huge deal over time. Your series on the table and your thinking process are greatly appreciated and very helpful in designing my own MFT setup. Clamping elements are on my short list of accessories. Looking forward to more updates and more projects coming out of your shop. 🙂
Thank you so much for your continued support and positive comments! I still don't know exactly what I'll do about a second table as I keep thinking about my table saw situation. As much as my Ridgid R4512 has been a great saw, it's far too large for my needs, and I'm currently leaning towards the recently-released SawStop compact saw. If I go that route, I'd build it into some sort of portable table which could work well for the auxiliary support I need.
@@MasonWoodshop I'd definitely swap saws if the ridgid is becoming more of a secondary tool. That new sawstop compact is definitely a neat looking little saw. You could always build the saw into the second mft you'll be building. Even if a tool is considered top shelf by most, if it doesn't conform to your workflow, you end up not using it as much and it ultimately becomes a silent dust collector. ;-)
I stumbled across your channel while researching dust collection hoses. I'm also researching ideas for a workbench that functions as an outfeed table with the ability for track saw crosscuts, bench dogs, and dovetail clamping(MicroJig). This video is perfect. Excellent execution and thank you for making this video!
Thanks for watching and leaving such a nice comment! I continue to really like this table and have continued to add additional MFT accessories. It’s also held up well through major humidity and temperature swings in Southern Ontario.
A very informative video with great advice for anyone venturing into their own MFT. In relation to the top being cut into Axminster Tools also supply 'UJK Anti-slip workbench protección dogs'. They are a small disc which fit into the dogs holes and they have an anti-slip top surface. They raise your workpiece around 2-3mm above the MFT Top and they are strong enough to use whilst sanding. This might also solve the problem with the lower battery of your plunge saw striking the benchdog. I've no connection to the company but they are currently £16.98 for eight.
Yes, thank you!! Those disc dogs are on my wish list for my next order from Axminster, although I also need a 40mm dog to work with the UJK track clips. Amazing what they have to offer at Axminster.
After hours and hours down the whole DIY MFT rabbit hole I finally found everything that I was looking for in your series here! The one question I have is the method you used to apply the OSMO polyx to your MDF top. If you could share the steps you took that would be much appreciated!!
I’m so happy to hear the series has helped! If you didn’t see it, I just did an “18 months later” video a few days ago. As for the OSMO, I can’t 100% remember but I believe I just poured it on then used a lint free cloth to move it around, then wiped up all of the excess. I believe I did 3 coats and it’s held up amazingly well! I do see some swirl marks on the top from the method I used, but it’s for shop use so I’m not concerned. When using OSMO for inside furniture I use a foam brush and don’t get streaking, although that does take longer.
Nice series. Thank you so much for posting them. style I keep going back and forth whether or not I want to build an assembly table that I can break down sheet goods with the track saw with or without holes. Many of MFT accessories look cool, but all those holes would drive me nuts. I really only need to rip full sheets (which seems like I don't need holes for that) and repeatability when cut parts to length (which I would prefer the removable fence & hinged track). I love my new track saw, but I am still HUGE table saw guy and always will be (hard to change a 45 yr. old habit)
That’s a good thought process. The holes haven’t bothered me at all, but if I were to make a new top (mine has held up well) I’d probably put about 1/3 of the holes that I did.
May I suggest you use telescopic supports to extend the support. for cutting bigger boards. I've done this on my MFT. as I have a long, narrow building that requires me to walk both sides of my MFT, So my MFT bench is quite narrow. I literally drilled two Horizontal holes one on the left and one on the right, Remember to stagger the whole drilling so the poles don't collide. Also try. also try and arrange the poles to have some Wooden guides. to stop the slop backwards and forwards in the holes. They're just two strips of small pieces of wood that the poles can slide along. again. It all depends on where your dog holes are as to where you'll put your horizontal holes in MFT table. at the nearest point to where he would stand to cut. and used metal poles. So they went just under the top surface of the MFT. so that means that. they are bit lower than top surface, so I drilled a square block of wood and attached that on the end of Tube to bring it back up to height. You can even make it, that you store the tubes inside the holes pushed right through, or take them out when not in use. in regards to the furthest away point. I used fold down Shelf brackets. to support wooden extensions. A word of warning. If you go down that route, make sure the wood is. fairly thick. So you don't accidentally get the saw blade touching the hinge assembly as I did.! I should explain I. use the right hand side of the table as the cutting point. So the saw always goes down the edge. Never through the table itself.
Nice. I also have a paulk style table i was going to add an array of dog holes to. The one thing I wish I would have done is make my top removable/replaceable. I pocketholed my top from the inside and screwed down my bottom from the outside. Plan on making a new top n the near future and that is my plan. My top is 6'x4'.. Great videos. Your build gives me some good ideas.
Great to hear this gives you some ideas! I've been very happy with my dog hole placements so far and while I could have gotten away with far fewer like what Peter Parf has shown, having more allows me to think less about the geometry and just generally gives more options for clamping.
Hey Cole! Love your videos, you mentioned that you lived in southern Ontario, so do I! Id love to chat about your cost/pride for running your jigs/using your help to make some tables! Hope to hear back from you, thanks man! Great content
I finally bought my first track saw. I really like it and I am using it for more and more things. However, I have discovered that my jobsite tablesaw is still convenient and sometimes better for certain work, particularly involving narrow stock.
@@MasonWoodshop I really like the Sawstop jobsite, which folds and rolls easily and compactly. Plus I have an extended infeed clip-on saddle like the one Izzy Swan sells for it and portable outfeed roller stands. Makes it super easy to set up.
I’m thinking so too. Costly compared to a similar DeWalt, but safety (and dust collection with other tools) has been playing a bigger role in my tool purchases recently.
For the small table saw, lookup Ron Paul Smart Cradle. You could mount it on the end of your MFT with dogs. I have a small Bosch GTS1031, and am considering doing that. He has a design for a router table extension too. Pretty neat.
I’ve been following him closely as he just got the SawStop CTS that I purchased and has already made a cradle for it. I think it’s going to be an awesome space-saving way to do it!
Have you considered putting in a few pieces of T-track where you cut. Like you said it is so accurate you should never hit the sides and you add an additional work holding option.
That’s an interesting idea and something that could definitely work! So far, I haven’t found the need for any non-dog hole based accessories as the UJK and Festool accessories have covered all of the bases but you’ve opened my mind to potentially making this even more versatile!
From my experience, the problem with putting a shelf underneath and loading it with offcuts is that it makes the table really heavy and much harder to move around especially if the floor is a bit uneven.
Great point! There is a ton of weight on it when fully loaded, but I haven’t had much issue moving it around so far. Additionally, it’s changed positions maybe 4 times since being built so move-ability hasn’t been much of a concern.
I also built a modified Ron Paulk MFT workbench and have been working with it (not as much as I would like to) but. Anyway I did purchase a Dash Board guide rail system and really like it. I had to buy some T-track to mount the guide rails and it truly works well. They also have a number of accessories that would help with the off cut issue. I know I will be using some of their products on my table Anyhow check them out Stephen
Thanks for sharing! The Dash stuff looks very impressive. I considered their full set of things before building my MFT, but haven’t explore the accessories I could add to my own.
That finish oil you put on your table, is it like Linseed oil where if You ball up a rag soaked in it, it will self combust? Table looks great! Did you have some Sort of jig for the hole Drilling?
I used Osmo on it and I’m not sure if it’s one of the potentially combustible finishes. To drill the holes, I used the UJK Parf system - not cheap but worked so well that I bought too many other UJK accessories.
Could you not route a groove (or 2) in both directions and maybe at 45⁰ and finish that groove with the oil so that your main cut is not sacrificial, so you may not need to replace the top.
Yup, that would be an option! What I’ve found in use is that the fence system I use keeps the cut perfect every time, so I’ve neither had to consider replacing the top or doing anything to the table to increase sacrificiality (I think I just made up that word, haha)
From my perspective I just want an assembly table that I can get my pink foam up on to use my track saw. Working on the floor isn’t the worst but as I do more projects I find myself on the floor often.
Thanks for sharing your MFT build! I'm planning my own build soon and I am interested in the type of MDF you used for the top. I've seen water resistant MDF recommended, but it's not readily available in my area. Did you use typical big box 3/4" MDF?
Hey! I’m in London and have recently been buying most of my sheet goods from Century Mill’s new London location. Other than that, usually just the home centres.
@@MasonWoodshop amazing thank you. I am in Burlington and I am looking for alternatives for Exotic Woods. I am planning to build my own MFT and find your videos very inspiring. I hope to get my hands on the UJK para guide soon. Cheers!
@@mauricioecheverri5751 Oooh, Burlington should give you access to some good spots to pick up lumber, although none immediately pop into mind. Thank you for the kind words! I'm so happy with my decision to go the DIY MFT route.
That was an ongoing thought for a while but as I started to use the table with larger material I just used some cheap extendable height rollers from the big box store or more-often-than-not just my cart with portable table saw that is purposefully about 1/8” taller than the table.
2:16 why not? After watching multitudes of vids, unless I need to clean up an edge, I fully expect to be making finish cuts 95+% of the time. Am I wrong?
Definitely not and I’d say that I’m making finish-ready edges every time with the track saw. Maybe a light pass with some sandpaper to break the corner but that’s it.
Interestingly enough, much of the construction work in Canada is done in imperial. I’ve gradually changed the majority of my work (and shop tools/accessories) over to metric in the past couple of years. So much easier but I’ll often still mention imperial measurements from time to time as the majority of my views come from the US.
I am thinking about getting a few of the shorter/mid-height Bench Dogs UK dogs to try out. Main reason why I went UJK was that I was ordering other items from them and shipping/import fees to Canada aren’t ideal.
If you have any ideas or tips for my custom MFT build or from your own, leave a comment below!
This comment is not so much for you (since you already have a great setup) but for anyone else reading this. Look into Dashboard Portable Workshop if you’re thinking of going down the MFT route. The system Rob invented is pretty much the Rolls-Royce of MFT Style benches. Definitely not cheap but the quality is A plus.
@@Benmeglei1 That one was on my radar prior to this build and if I had the money for something like it, I would have seriously considered going that route! Very impressive with excellent precision.
@@Benmeglei100 American for the table and 2500 American for the needed accessories make it a bad value. In Canada where we live that’s 5200 dollars…. Five mft setups
So when the saw lines get scored enough to replace the table top, why not route out a small area along the saw line. Route out to the dimension of thinner MDF and then have a replacement area that you can replace with the rest of the table remaining intact.
@@romanjohnston That's exactly what I'll do when the time comes, although after a year of light-to-moderate use I don't think that time will come any time soon. As long as I use the same dog setup to mount my rail the cut is in exactly the same spot.
When using festool clamps upside down through the table, slip some clear plastic tube over the end so the clamp won't damage your workpiece.
Very nice. I built one very similar to yours partially based on the Hooked on Wood and Paulk designs. I used a friend's Parf guide system to align and drill the holes. The top is a torsion box made from 30mm and 19mm Valchromat that provides strength and flatness. It rests on an oak frame made of 3"x3" stock. It's 33"x60" and has an open shelf underneath for systainers. I have a variety of clamps and accessories including Bessey's new clamping elements that are currently unavailable in the US. I'm going to add a Turbo vise to the far end for hand plane work.
That’s amazing! Thanks for sharing.
I know this is a year old video (and the only one I have watched- so far!) but rather than build an extension table that takes up a lot of real estate, I would consider either a flip up top on one end or a couple of drawer slides to support the auxiliary top from your table saw to use for longer sheets.
Thanks for watching! Funny enough, I haven't used the small auxiliary top I made butt he first time I do, I'm planning on mounting it so that it will flip up. Instead, I've just ended up using cheap extendable work supports/rollers that I can place wherever I want.
Nice MFT table build and thanks for sharing it with us! Did you see the simple (plywood + flush dogs) extensions Ron Paulk is using when he wants to cut full sheets on his small bencher? With those you only need to occupy the extra space for the time you need to break those sheets down, and keep the table in a smaller size for the other times. His smart cradle should also work great to add a jobsite sized table saw on one side of your table, and will give you a flat outfeed surface when you combine it with the extensions mentioned earlier.
Thanks for watching, Lukas! Big thanks for the recommendation on Ron Paull's extensions and cradle...those are EXACTLY what I need for my bench and they are much more space-saving than what I had planned.
If you do not want to go to the trouble of putting strips of wood in the cut places on your MFT you can use a powder you mix with water and put the paste in the kerfs. Line each side of the kerf with tape and it makes a very hard surface. Sand it down and you will be ready to go for a few more years of use.
That's an intriguing option, thanks for sharing!
Great update! I'm building two MFTs rather than one as well, for the same reason you will. Mine will be smaller though; probably two 2'x4' tables, also on casters of course. Accessories are definitely expensive, but most of them are buy once, lifetime purchases. So that ends up not being a huge deal over time. Your series on the table and your thinking process are greatly appreciated and very helpful in designing my own MFT setup. Clamping elements are on my short list of accessories.
Looking forward to more updates and more projects coming out of your shop. 🙂
Thank you so much for your continued support and positive comments! I still don't know exactly what I'll do about a second table as I keep thinking about my table saw situation. As much as my Ridgid R4512 has been a great saw, it's far too large for my needs, and I'm currently leaning towards the recently-released SawStop compact saw. If I go that route, I'd build it into some sort of portable table which could work well for the auxiliary support I need.
@@MasonWoodshop I'd definitely swap saws if the ridgid is becoming more of a secondary tool. That new sawstop compact is definitely a neat looking little saw. You could always build the saw into the second mft you'll be building. Even if a tool is considered top shelf by most, if it doesn't conform to your workflow, you end up not using it as much and it ultimately becomes a silent dust collector. ;-)
I stumbled across your channel while researching dust collection hoses. I'm also researching ideas for a workbench that functions as an outfeed table with the ability for track saw crosscuts, bench dogs, and dovetail clamping(MicroJig). This video is perfect. Excellent execution and thank you for making this video!
Thanks for watching and leaving such a nice comment! I continue to really like this table and have continued to add additional MFT accessories. It’s also held up well through major humidity and temperature swings in Southern Ontario.
Great video that gave me a much better understanding of what a MFT table is and how it’s used!
Thanks Gary!! It’s become a great central component of my shop.
A very informative video with great advice for anyone venturing into their own MFT. In relation to the top being cut into Axminster Tools also supply 'UJK Anti-slip workbench protección dogs'. They are a small disc which fit into the dogs holes and they have an anti-slip top surface. They raise your workpiece around 2-3mm above the MFT Top and they are strong enough to use whilst sanding. This might also solve the problem with the lower battery of your plunge saw striking the benchdog. I've no connection to the company but they are currently £16.98 for eight.
Yes, thank you!! Those disc dogs are on my wish list for my next order from Axminster, although I also need a 40mm dog to work with the UJK track clips. Amazing what they have to offer at Axminster.
Love your approach and outcomes. Excellent series of vids on this table build.
Thanks Robert! It’s not going to win beauty awards, but the function of it is amazing.
After hours and hours down the whole DIY MFT rabbit hole I finally found everything that I was looking for in your series here! The one question I have is the method you used to apply the OSMO polyx to your MDF top. If you could share the steps you took that would be much appreciated!!
I’m so happy to hear the series has helped! If you didn’t see it, I just did an “18 months later” video a few days ago.
As for the OSMO, I can’t 100% remember but I believe I just poured it on then used a lint free cloth to move it around, then wiped up all of the excess. I believe I did 3 coats and it’s held up amazingly well! I do see some swirl marks on the top from the method I used, but it’s for shop use so I’m not concerned. When using OSMO for inside furniture I use a foam brush and don’t get streaking, although that does take longer.
Nice series. Thank you so much for posting them. style
I keep going back and forth whether or not I want to build an assembly table that I can break down sheet goods with the track saw with or without holes. Many of MFT accessories look cool, but all those holes would drive me nuts. I really only need to rip full sheets (which seems like I don't need holes for that) and repeatability when cut parts to length (which I would prefer the removable fence & hinged track). I love my new track saw, but I am still HUGE table saw guy and always will be (hard to change a 45 yr. old habit)
That’s a good thought process. The holes haven’t bothered me at all, but if I were to make a new top (mine has held up well) I’d probably put about 1/3 of the holes that I did.
Thanks!@@MasonWoodshop
May I suggest you use telescopic supports to extend the support. for cutting bigger boards. I've done this on my MFT. as I have a long, narrow building that requires me to walk both sides of my MFT, So my MFT bench is quite narrow. I literally drilled two Horizontal holes one on the left and one on the right, Remember to stagger the whole drilling so the poles don't collide. Also try. also try and arrange the poles to have some Wooden guides. to stop the slop backwards and forwards in the holes. They're just two strips of small pieces of wood that the poles can slide along. again. It all depends on where your dog holes are as to where you'll put your horizontal holes in MFT table. at the nearest point to where he would stand to cut. and used metal poles. So they went just under the top surface of the MFT. so that means that. they are bit lower than top surface, so I drilled a square block of wood and attached that on the end of Tube to bring it back up to height. You can even make it, that you store the tubes inside the holes pushed right through, or take them out when not in use. in regards to the furthest away point. I used fold down Shelf brackets. to support wooden extensions. A word of warning. If you go down that route, make sure the wood is. fairly thick. So you don't accidentally get the saw blade touching the hinge assembly as I did.! I should explain I. use the right hand side of the table as the cutting point. So the saw always goes down the edge. Never through the table itself.
This is a very cool idea! I never thought about adding support in this way. Thanks for the suggestion and details.
Nice. I also have a paulk style table i was going to add an array of dog holes to. The one thing I wish I would have done is make my top removable/replaceable. I pocketholed my top from the inside and screwed down my bottom from the outside. Plan on making a new top n the near future and that is my plan. My top is 6'x4'.. Great videos. Your build gives me some good ideas.
Great to hear this gives you some ideas! I've been very happy with my dog hole placements so far and while I could have gotten away with far fewer like what Peter Parf has shown, having more allows me to think less about the geometry and just generally gives more options for clamping.
Hey Cole! Love your videos, you mentioned that you lived in southern Ontario, so do I!
Id love to chat about your cost/pride for running your jigs/using your help to make some tables!
Hope to hear back from you, thanks man! Great content
Thanks for watching and commenting Cameron! Feel free to send me an email (address should be on my about page). I’m located in London, Ontario.
I finally bought my first track saw. I really like it and I am using it for more and more things. However, I have discovered that my jobsite tablesaw is still convenient and sometimes better for certain work, particularly involving narrow stock.
Totally agree on narrow stock. I’m planning to move to a job site saw as I do find it a bit cumbersome to pull out my larger Ridgid contractor saw.
@@MasonWoodshop I really like the Sawstop jobsite, which folds and rolls easily and compactly. Plus I have an extended infeed clip-on saddle like the one Izzy Swan sells for it and portable outfeed roller stands. Makes it super easy to set up.
The new compact sawstop will be perfect!
I’m thinking so too. Costly compared to a similar DeWalt, but safety (and dust collection with other tools) has been playing a bigger role in my tool purchases recently.
For the small table saw, lookup Ron Paul Smart Cradle. You could mount it on the end of your MFT with dogs. I have a small Bosch GTS1031, and am considering doing that. He has a design for a router table extension too. Pretty neat.
I’ve been following him closely as he just got the SawStop CTS that I purchased and has already made a cradle for it. I think it’s going to be an awesome space-saving way to do it!
Have you considered putting in a few pieces of T-track where you cut. Like you said it is so accurate you should never hit the sides and you add an additional work holding option.
That’s an interesting idea and something that could definitely work! So far, I haven’t found the need for any non-dog hole based accessories as the UJK and Festool accessories have covered all of the bases but you’ve opened my mind to potentially making this even more versatile!
From my experience, the problem with putting a shelf underneath and loading it with offcuts is that it makes the table really heavy and much harder to move around especially if the floor is a bit uneven.
Great point! There is a ton of weight on it when fully loaded, but I haven’t had much issue moving it around so far. Additionally, it’s changed positions maybe 4 times since being built so move-ability hasn’t been much of a concern.
I also built a modified Ron Paulk MFT workbench and have been working with it (not as much as I would like to) but. Anyway I did purchase a Dash Board guide rail system and really like it. I had to buy some T-track to mount the guide rails and it truly works well. They also have a number of accessories that would help with the off cut issue.
I know I will be using some of their products on my table
Anyhow check them out
Stephen
Thanks for sharing! The Dash stuff looks very impressive. I considered their full set of things before building my MFT, but haven’t explore the accessories I could add to my own.
I think you could make an outrigger table to solve your off-cut problem
@@piobenn That was my plan, but I've now found that cart I built for my jobsite saw is the exact height (planned) and works perfectly!
That’s will work. Hope things work out for you.
That finish oil you put on your table, is it like
Linseed oil where if
You ball up a rag soaked in it, it will self combust? Table looks great! Did you have some
Sort of jig for the hole
Drilling?
I used Osmo on it and I’m not sure if it’s one of the potentially combustible finishes. To drill the holes, I used the UJK Parf system - not cheap but worked so well that I bought too many other UJK accessories.
Could you not route a groove (or 2) in both directions and maybe at 45⁰ and finish that groove with the oil so that your main cut is not sacrificial, so you may not need to replace the top.
Yup, that would be an option! What I’ve found in use is that the fence system I use keeps the cut perfect every time, so I’ve neither had to consider replacing the top or doing anything to the table to increase sacrificiality (I think I just made up that word, haha)
From my perspective I just want an assembly table that I can get my pink foam up on to use my track saw. Working on the floor isn’t the worst but as I do more projects I find myself on the floor often.
That’s mostly how this project started and it quickly became a slippery slope into the abyss of 20mm dog holes and accessories, haha!
Thanks for sharing your MFT build! I'm planning my own build soon and I am interested in the type of MDF you used for the top. I've seen water resistant MDF recommended, but it's not readily available in my area. Did you use typical big box 3/4" MDF?
That’s the table I want to make.
Hey Mason, love your videos. Whereabouts you are located in south western Ontario? Where do you source your sheet goods from?
Hey! I’m in London and have recently been buying most of my sheet goods from Century Mill’s new London location. Other than that, usually just the home centres.
@@MasonWoodshop amazing thank you. I am in Burlington and I am looking for alternatives for Exotic Woods. I am planning to build my own MFT and find your videos very inspiring. I hope to get my hands on the UJK para guide soon. Cheers!
@@mauricioecheverri5751 Oooh, Burlington should give you access to some good spots to pick up lumber, although none immediately pop into mind. Thank you for the kind words! I'm so happy with my decision to go the DIY MFT route.
Hey great table! Whereabouts in southern Ontario are you?
Thanks! I’m in London.
I'd probably make a flip up end to use when you need it and save space when you don't.
That’s definitely something I’ll consider as I could make there’s a gap between the table and extension with an appropriate hinge.
@@MasonWoodshop there’s the quick 90’s you can grab the lever and snap them open. The ones I have were like $15us a piece and hold 300lbs.
@@WoodUCreate Right on! I'll see what I can find.
Very nice table. Just an idea, would a folding leaf at the end work rather than the extra table?
That was an ongoing thought for a while but as I started to use the table with larger material I just used some cheap extendable height rollers from the big box store or more-often-than-not just my cart with portable table saw that is purposefully about 1/8” taller than the table.
2:16 why not?
After watching multitudes of vids, unless I need to clean up an edge, I fully expect to be making finish cuts 95+% of the time. Am I wrong?
Definitely not and I’d say that I’m making finish-ready edges every time with the track saw. Maybe a light pass with some sandpaper to break the corner but that’s it.
I thought Canadians were metric? Even here in the UK we have largely abandoned crappy imperial.
Interestingly enough, much of the construction work in Canada is done in imperial. I’ve gradually changed the majority of my work (and shop tools/accessories) over to metric in the past couple of years. So much easier but I’ll often still mention imperial measurements from time to time as the majority of my views come from the US.
Where did you purchase your jigs from tso in ontario? I'm in northern Ontario looking to get the makita with those jigs.
I bought the TSO parallel guide system from Lee Valley.
Have you seen the mobile table saw setup from Pask Makes? I'm thinking of going to something like that.
I haven't seen it and I can't seem to find it. Definitely curious!
1:16 that’s a damn good wife.
can i cross cut very square?
Yup, cross-cutting is the main purpose of this table and the results are consistently perfect.
Look at Ron Paulk
Bench dogs uk cheaper
I am thinking about getting a few of the shorter/mid-height Bench Dogs UK dogs to try out. Main reason why I went UJK was that I was ordering other items from them and shipping/import fees to Canada aren’t ideal.