Dueling Temp Gauges; "A man with one watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never quite sure." Maybe with impeller on the water pump is eroded or the blades were too short to begin with? Try a laser temp gauge to try to find a hot spot. Will also give you info from the various hoses and different locations on the radiator. IDK, but thanks for taking on this magical mystery tour.
Pull the radiator and c.l.r. it and backflush it. You could i.r. thermo scan your radiator to see if the flow is consistent. Try an extra blade on your fan, extend out your shroud, different water pump pulley. If all that does nothing try another water pump that is attached to a 327 under the hood. Lol
When all else fails and nothing makes sense.. put a tank of premium fuel in it lol -your mind will automatically start telling you it’s fixed, trying to justify the price :)
I would install a spacer between the pulley and the fan. It will put the fan deeper into the shroud and pulling more air when the truck is stationary. Your flow seems fine. A five or seven blade fan would help too. Stay away from flex fans
Given a thought to the water pump might be going bad? I have ran across a case where the impelor on the pump was going bad and the car would over heat at times.
thanks man, the 54 is around, its not going anywhere lol. I started to make the video cause i thought it would help someone but i was also pretty sure I was going to find combustion gas in the coolant... but i am stumped
Ford flattie V8’s need their T-stat or a restrictor because the twin water pumps can move the coolant too fast and thus decrease capacity. I say this because be careful of going straight to over-drive the water pump. When the temp dropped as you rev’d it up, you were moving more coolant but also more air… to me the lack of real shroud, the impediment of the electric fan and poor fan placement is the place to start. I’d remove the electric fan and cobble up a real shroud with the fan blade half in/half out and see how that works. If it needs more, then over drive the water pump. Good luck man!
true story about the flatheads, nothing worked better than a thermostat but we tried nothing, washers with as restrictors... but what I did learn is, the more you hop up an engine with old school speed parts, the less shocked one should be if it doesn't like to idle endlessly in traffic. those are all pretty sound assessments dude. I think the larger v8 radiator moved it further forward away from the fan. but the strange thing about it is the same thing happened with the inline 6 radiator before i replaced it...also, the added electric fan will not drop the temp in the same way as hitting the gas (however both will have lesser and lesser effect as the temp creeps up and stays there for longer periods of time) maybe I am focused on the wrong stuff but... I swear this problem came with this engine... but i can't find it. I have also looked at all my engines for comparison, all of the water pump pulleys seem to be 1 to 1 with the crank..
Somewhere in your stream of consciousness rambling you said the temp goes up at stop signs tha tusually means a radiator problem,could be partly plugged even if fairly new.
well clearly the only solution is to move to an artic climate where its always polar bear weather,because thats easier then actually opening the engine "fixing" stuff,only problem is if the heater stops working then you have to move back again.
Need the fan inside a shroud to do its job 100%. You also may have calcium/rust build up inside and some of the ports and inside the radiator. Your water pump internal fan( that pushes the fluid) may not be doing its job. Just throwing ideas at you....
that seems to be my best guess too, i have a sbc 6.25 that i think would increase the ratio to like 1.16 with the crank pulley... it might be the thing to do
thats what i had in it, was getting the same results but ... then when it got cold out that wasnt hot enought to get the heater cooking so i replaced it... dont know whats going on this engine has been really consistent like this for 12 years
Way to old i would guess.... But does it have a fan clutch? Ive had bmw straight 6's that looked fime. But you could easily stop the fan with a news paper. Looks like its spinning propperly but must have been slipping.
maybe for fun i will time it by vacuum and tune the carb... the only reason i hesitate is its just reliable, it always starts, even though the temp guage creeps up, the truck doesnt seem to care
You said that changing the thermostat reset the cycle. Thermostats go bad, you know that, on top of that they are using this brand new element (periodic table) in them "chinesium", wich affects the quality and durability of said thermostats. In serisness now, have you flush the system and refill it with fresh coolant?, A couple clogged passages (yes, even in a newish radiator) can give you the traffic light syndrome flush the fins of the radiator with a water hose from the inside out, bugs are willing to sacrifice their life just to bug you. Finally fan clutch (if there is one) and health status of the blades have some part in this circus
I see a lot of things wrong that could cause your issues, From the metal fan if you are using an electric fan you need to remove the metal fan that’s dragging down the engine. When you put the engine in the first thing I would have done is a fluid change and gasket change and a new water pump if you have a new radiator. I only work and own older vehicles and learned everything from my dad and grandpa. Also it sounds like it has air in the system and that would definitely make it over heat but I do not believe low oil would make it over heat that much. I’ve worked on many cars and trucks with overheating and never was it because the oil was low. Adding a lower thermostat would help and I always recommend never using a 190 if it’s super hot where you live.
Dueling Temp Gauges; "A man with one watch knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never quite sure." Maybe with impeller on the water pump is eroded or the blades were too short to begin with? Try a laser temp gauge to try to find a hot spot. Will also give you info from the various hoses and different locations on the radiator. IDK, but thanks for taking on this magical mystery tour.
Pull the radiator and c.l.r. it and backflush it. You could i.r. thermo scan your radiator to see if the flow is consistent. Try an extra blade on your fan, extend out your shroud, different water pump pulley. If all that does nothing try another water pump that is attached to a 327 under the hood. Lol
the ir is a good idea, i broke my last one and never replaced it... and you know there is a 327 laying around here somewhere
Had my water temp drop like that in an old engine under acceleration. Replaced the water pump and that fixed it. Good luck.
The joy of troubleshooting
dude.. i was sure i was gonna find it ...but alas
When all else fails and nothing makes sense.. put a tank of premium fuel in it lol
-your mind will automatically start telling you it’s fixed, trying to justify the price :)
I would install a spacer between the pulley and the fan. It will put the fan deeper into the shroud and pulling more air when the truck is stationary. Your flow seems fine. A five or seven blade fan would help too. Stay away from flex fans
thats not a bad idea
Given a thought to the water pump might be going bad? I have ran across a case where the impelor on the pump was going bad and the car would over heat at times.
Yes , I've been there also . No answer to help you . But you sure have covered the bases . Question , Where is the 54 ? Love that car .
thanks man, the 54 is around, its not going anywhere lol. I started to make the video cause i thought it would help someone but i was also pretty sure I was going to find combustion gas in the coolant... but i am stumped
Ford flattie V8’s need their T-stat or a restrictor because the twin water pumps can move the coolant too fast and thus decrease capacity. I say this because be careful of going straight to over-drive the water pump. When the temp dropped as you rev’d it up, you were moving more coolant but also more air… to me the lack of real shroud, the impediment of the electric fan and poor fan placement is the place to start. I’d remove the electric fan and cobble up a real shroud with the fan blade half in/half out and see how that works. If it needs more, then over drive the water pump. Good luck man!
true story about the flatheads, nothing worked better than a thermostat but we tried nothing, washers with as restrictors... but what I did learn is, the more you hop up an engine with old school speed parts, the less shocked one should be if it doesn't like to idle endlessly in traffic.
those are all pretty sound assessments dude. I think the larger v8 radiator moved it further forward away from the fan. but the strange thing about it is the same thing happened with the inline 6 radiator before i replaced it...also, the added electric fan will not drop the temp in the same way as hitting the gas (however both will have lesser and lesser effect as the temp creeps up and stays there for longer periods of time) maybe I am focused on the wrong stuff but... I swear this problem came with this engine... but i can't find it. I have also looked at all my engines for comparison, all of the water pump pulleys seem to be 1 to 1 with the crank..
Somewhere in your stream of consciousness rambling you said the temp goes up at stop signs tha tusually means a radiator problem,could be partly plugged even if fairly new.
run a coolant flow test at a rad shop. measures coolant flow may have a partial rad obstruction.
One thing you might look at is your fan placement it should be half in and half out of you shroud and I would try a bigger fan
that fair i may dig around for a spacer and a smaller pulley
Had an old 300 straight had timing and overheating issues. Found the folic cam gear stripped and randomly causing driveability issues
oof bet that was a puzzler
Change to a smaller water pump pulley. Hard to tell what was changed B4 u got it. Rpm seems to be the only fix
thats what i have been thinking about, its 1to1 with the crank pulley now, i think i ll root around in my stash see if i can find one
I was just curious if you tried the jeep bumper hooks idea?
not yet, only because i have not been to harbor freight since the idea was floated ... stay tuned
@@betweenthesharksgarage I just bought 3 for my Chinese 15 mini hoe… going to use them to get rid off kudzu roots.
well clearly the only solution is to move to an artic climate where its always polar bear weather,because thats easier then actually opening the engine "fixing" stuff,only problem is if the heater stops working then you have to move back again.
Replace the radiator cap or have it checked. You back flushed the block but not the radiator.
put some of that water wetter in it stuffs good for about 10 deeggees
not a bad idea, just would love to find the cause instead of battling the symptoms
Need the fan inside a shroud to do its job 100%. You also may have calcium/rust build up inside and some of the ports and inside the radiator. Your water pump internal fan( that pushes the fluid) may not be doing its job. Just throwing ideas at you....
yea a fan spacer would help
I would try a smaller water pump pulley
that seems to be my best guess too, i have a sbc 6.25 that i think would increase the ratio to like 1.16 with the crank pulley... it might be the thing to do
I put a 160° thermostat in all my carbureted vehicles.
thats what i had in it, was getting the same results but ... then when it got cold out that wasnt hot enought to get the heater cooking so i replaced it... dont know whats going on this engine has been really consistent like this for 12 years
the only thing you haven't done is play with the carb just to see if anything changes
I have never messed with it because it always worked, hot, cold whatever, the truck always starts and idles.... but maybe it is time
Way to old i would guess.... But does it have a fan clutch? Ive had bmw straight 6's that looked fime. But you could easily stop the fan with a news paper. Looks like its spinning propperly but must have been slipping.
Harmonic balancer slipping on the rubber? That will mess up your timing
maybe for fun i will time it by vacuum and tune the carb... the only reason i hesitate is its just reliable, it always starts, even though the temp guage creeps up, the truck doesnt seem to care
You said that changing the thermostat reset the cycle. Thermostats go bad, you know that, on top of that they are using this brand new element (periodic table) in them "chinesium", wich affects the quality and durability of said thermostats.
In serisness now, have you flush the system and refill it with fresh coolant?, A couple clogged passages (yes, even in a newish radiator) can give you the traffic light syndrome flush the fins of the radiator with a water hose from the inside out, bugs are willing to sacrifice their life just to bug you. Finally fan clutch (if there is one) and health status of the blades have some part in this circus
the thing that is killing me is i dont have the issue with any of the thermostats in other cars driven the same routes in the same traffic
In the vid you showed the t-stat not opening
sounds like radiator, clogged, wrong size, or something like that.
I see a lot of things wrong that could cause your issues, From the metal fan if you are using an electric fan you need to remove the metal fan that’s dragging down the engine. When you put the engine in the first thing I would have done is a fluid change and gasket change and a new water pump if you have a new radiator. I only work and own older vehicles and learned everything from my dad and grandpa. Also it sounds like it has air in the system and that would definitely make it over heat but I do not believe low oil would make it over heat that much. I’ve worked on many cars and trucks with overheating and never was it because the oil was low. Adding a lower thermostat would help and I always recommend never using a 190 if it’s super hot where you live.
Whoops I guess I should have watched the whole video before commenting😂 still useless video
good to see you back larry