Acura Integra Battery Relocation the EASY WAY & NO MORE OVERHEATING
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- Опубліковано 10 лют 2025
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Hello everyone. Today we simply move the battery to the trunk to get ready for our ac line tuck. Also, the car no longer overheats. Don’t forget like, share and subscribe!
#acuraintegra
#dc2
#typer
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#b20vtec
#lsvtec
#gsr
#b16
#kswap
#k20
#hondata
#ktuner
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#h22
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Back to back to back💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Distribution block looks Hella familiar lol
Question? Can I skip the distribution block and wire everything through the fuse box to the back? Or the fuse box just be relocate to
If you have the space as long as the main points are in contact you can set it up however you need. I went with the block because I like having the wires individually. And also I did not need any new wires for those accessories.
@@projectbteam147 ok gotcha block just keeps everything more neat I’m probably going to do that also
What is this block thing called I’m about to buy it
5/16 or 3/8
I’m sorry, but what block thing are you referring to?
I’m sorry I’m dumb hahaha I thought we were on the ac video. I have a 3/8 block.
@@projectbteam147 you the 🐐 a lot of people don’t share this kind of information. Going to attempt to do a wire tuck and Jack Spania tuck kit. Cars been down cause I blew the transmission but just got it back from the shop so have a lot of work ahead of me amigo
@@projectbteam147 I fucking break everything I touch so it’s nice to have a in depth video to follow and to know what I’m getting into.
What turbo is that ?
Hello Julian. The turbo is a small t3 flanged .42/.48 turbo from ebay. It has served me well for many years and makes the car super fun and responsive.
There’s a bunch of problems with your install. 1st and most importantly you need a fuse holder or I use a circuit breaker on that power line. If the power wire ever grounds out it’ll burn your car to the ground. Same as running a power wire to the hatch for a sub amp. Next the ground wire you put to the little piece on the rear wall is not proper. For something that draws very little amperage you can get away with that, but for a battery running the car (or a hi power sub amplifier) the ground needs to go straight to the actual floor which is the only good ground point on a unibody car. Also, don’t buy a capacitor for your sub amplifier. It won’t help your battery at all. I started doing car stereo in 1990 and started modding and racing Honda’s (and other imports) in 1998. Good luck bro.
Thanks for your input. I’ll make the necessary accommodations.
What u recommend I do? I want to tuck my fuse box inside my glove box and run the wires under the dash…. Distribution block somewhere hidden under the dash. I need a circuit breaker on the power wire for the battery? And I need to ground the starter and battery to what
So what I did was I used an audio inline fuse holder with fuse for the main battery wire going to distribution. So in the event there’s and arc or something it will blow and disconnect the battery. The starter does not need a ground, it’s grounded to the engine once it’s bolted up. Just need to run a power wire from distribution to power on the starter and then your signal wire to the solenoid from the harness.
And your battery will need to be grounded to the chassis. I actually ended up making my own hole on the shock tower because it’s thick steel there and I tapped the hole to 1/4” and put a 1/4” bolt to hold the terminal on the ground wire.
@@projectbteam147thanks man ima try my best to get this tucked. I really want the fuse box inside the glove box if possible but if that doesn’t work cause ac stuff is kept I will just keep it in the bay
Reroute that wategate dump away from your intercooler piping 🤦🏻♂️
Eventually I’ll get to it. For now it’s not creating any issues other than making that section of piping and rad support black. If it did create any issues I would have fixed it already.
B20 black