Wow the underside of your Landy is so clean. I'm glad to have passed the right of passage!. Mine had the original leather pinion seals in. Man they were hard to get out!
The last time I encountered one of those leather seals it was well stuck, in the end I drilled two opposite holes and used a pair of self tapping screws to get it moving, worked well. I do try and keep the Land Rover clean, it helps spot any new leaks and looks after the new chassis. Even a galvy chassis will rust if mud is allowed to accumulate on it.
They get better with time.. the maintenance is a necessary evil offset by the enjoyment I get from using the vehicle. I'd spend a lot more time working on it if I had a nice warm garage to work in...one day.. I've not seen felt washers on diff's, but you sometimes find them at the output shafts and front half shafts.
@@steamwally now in my 50's I thought I would of learnt my lesson and got a bit wiser, no I bought a P38 a couple of years ago, still having to do the same old stuff, though these days I know about for a few days later 🙄 Last job was a turbo swap last month, even that had me laid under the old 👧
@@chrisgreenwood271 totally agree. Had a 20 year rest from landrovers, had my 109 for 3 1/2 years now. 7.50 tyres weigh more than they used to and I don’t mind rolling round under her , it’s the getting up to get a different spanner that kills me!
@@chrisgreenwood271 Apart from the aggravation of getting oil all over your ill fitting reading glasses trying to see what you are doing ! Ivan's Shed should give us hope and inspiration however for the road ahead.
Great instructional video as always, @steamwally! Just: a. what do (if like me) old seal absolutely solid in housing and can’t get it to budge a millimetre (think must be still original), b. my s3 swb rear has castle nut/split pin: is it also 85 lb/ft for the castle nut?! Many thanks, Jonathan
Nice job and good timing for me, thanks - just starting both my pinion seals! I thought my rear prop had been fit wrong as the Haynes book says sleeved join near the handbrake drum on the rear axle, and near diff on front axle. It does make more sense to have it near the axles both ends though, closer the articulation?
Very helpful video. What size is the cylinder you used to knock the new seal in with? I bought the Haynes manual for my 2004 Defender 90 and can’t find any mention of replacing the front pinion seals at all so videos like yours are invaluable.
All went rather smoothly on this occasion which is good. Looked like you had some up and down movement on the steering arm when you were tightening the filler plug?
It's easy when you've done it before! Yes, there is plenty of flex in the track rods as standard, it's the bar bending not play in the joints and is quite normal. Some owners like to fit heavy duty track rods for improved road manners, something I may try.
Nice videos you have - thank you. I have a Series 2A and am going nuts trying to decide whether to replace the seal with another metal cased seal like the original (which had leather as the sealing bit [County makes these replacements), or go with a rubber seal the likes of what Corteco and others offer. Which seal manufacturer did you go with and how is doing now? Many thanks
Hi Phil! Glad to see you still posting videos. I was wandering if you still had your Myford ML7? Was thinking of buying one and was curious about how heavy they are and if it's involved getting it off the base unit. Thanks very much!
Hi, yeah still around, not posting as much as I'd like but I try and put out one or two videos a month. The Myford is still doing sterling service and was in almost daily whilst I was working from home for a few months. Naturally they are pretty heavy, you'll want someone to give you a hand. Removing from the base is as simple as disconnecting some wiring and removing four bolts. They are nice little machines but commanding a premium - TBH I could well use an upgrade to a much cheaper but more ridged Boxford. Myfords are the darling of the model engineering world, highly versatile but a little stretched for anything serious.
Hi Phil, I hope you could advise! After watching this and your older video I attempted to do mine as it was spraying the underside. To my surprise the castellated nut was completely and utterly loose and just barely hanging in there by the split pin. There was a bit of turning motion play but not excessive, I think. Upon removing the old seal I noticed the p/o owner had left it too far forward and drive flange mud shield had take off the outer lip. The inside of the seal also wasn’t great. Does the p/os mistake of having the prop the wrong way around effect this? Anyway, upon fitting my seal, I didn’t have something exactly appropriate to tap it into place and had to make do. This led the seal to be position quite a bit further in that I had hoped. Looks like it’s on the “next” lip in. The seal looks fine and isn’t deformed it’s just stuck further in (as I used a sealant). I decided against trying to pry it back out and likely ruining it so I’ve left it. Will this cause me further problems? Now back to the castellated nut, I torqued it up to spec which then didn’t let me by hand turn the flange freely. I kept going down in 10 of torque until I got to only 35 which it was just about happy with. What do you think of that? I’ve used the split pin so hopefully it doesn’t undo itself. Best wishes and I hope you can make some comments to hopefully reassure me!
Hi, sounds very familiar - every Land Rover seems to suffer PO problems! I think you have a little work to do there unfortunately, the diff uses a pair of tapered bearings and the pinion shaft runs a slight pre-load - that means that it will feel slightly stiff to turn but not tight. This is achieved by shimming the outer pinion bearings on the shaft, so that the nut can be tightened down to the correct torque without affecting the pre load. If it's been running loose it will have likely worn the crown wheel. If you are having to run a lower torque on the drive flange then there are insufficient shims on the pinion shaft. You could probably mess about trying shims in there to get it right but perhaps now would be a good time to pull it out and send it off for overhaul. Setting up a diff is actually quite an involved job if you do it properly and it does require some engineering knowhow and measuring equipment. It's not very DIY friendly though plenty of folks have a go. The prop shaft being reversed is a very common fault though seemingly inconsequential, so that shouldn't have caused any issues. Sorry I can't make you feel better about it, but better to have it sorted now than when it's gone pop, and Rover diff's like to go pop!
@@steamwally thanks for that. At least I know where I stand with it. The “timken” bearing I pulled out seemed to be in pretty good Nick. It had two thin shims in front of it and then the thicker spacer. I’m a uni student (and on a budget) and the rover is just a hobby so I think I’ll make do with how it is for now and keep an eye out for a good deal on a complete axle. Thanks again
The pinion bearings rely on the drive flange being fitted properly, as this retains the outer bearing - so the shaft will waggle around when all that is removed. The pinion has a pair of taper roller bearings and runs a slight pre-load when correctly assembled. It's normal to feel slight drag or stiffness when it's set correctly, something that is measured during the assembly process.
no more breaker bars for me matey, just bought an impact driver and socket set....instantaneous with finger tip control...the little beast I call it ....a chinese cheapo £50 job...not a portable one...rechargeable I mean.... but saves a lot of huff and puff.
hello steamwally i have a petter aa1 constant speed engine is there anyway to convert it to a variable speed easily and not replacing the injector pump? thanks
I had one of those many years ago - if I remember rightly, it had a plug which could be removed to get at the governor spring. I shortened the spring to slow mine down, but if you have access to a lathe (or know someone who does) I see no reason why you couldn't make up an adjuster.
I find that they make the steering a little too stiff and it doesn't self centre so easily. I find the drive is very much improved without it - no problems on rough ground either, just keep your thumbs outside the wheel.
@@steamwally just saw the flat part on the diff house underneath. But then this is normal on other diffs also. I know they are not made for speed, and it might be better with a over drive gear., but changed diffs sure makes the rest of the car seem calmer in 80km/h
Videos still going strong. Just changed the pinion seal on my 2a thanks to this. Thanks for the great commentary and detail.
Wow the underside of your Landy is so clean. I'm glad to have passed the right of passage!. Mine had the original leather pinion seals in. Man they were hard to get out!
The last time I encountered one of those leather seals it was well stuck, in the end I drilled two opposite holes and used a pair of self tapping screws to get it moving, worked well. I do try and keep the Land Rover clean, it helps spot any new leaks and looks after the new chassis. Even a galvy chassis will rust if mud is allowed to accumulate on it.
@@steamwally funnily enough that's exactly how I got it out.
gute arbeit ! greetings from germany 👍🏻😀
brought back horrible memories laid on my back working on my series III many years ago.
thought there was normally a felt washer as well.
They get better with time.. the maintenance is a necessary evil offset by the enjoyment I get from using the vehicle. I'd spend a lot more time working on it if I had a nice warm garage to work in...one day..
I've not seen felt washers on diff's, but you sometimes find them at the output shafts and front half shafts.
@@steamwally now in my 50's I thought I would of learnt my lesson and got a bit wiser, no I bought a P38 a couple of years ago, still having to do the same old stuff, though these days I know about for a few days later 🙄
Last job was a turbo swap last month, even that had me laid under the old 👧
@@chrisgreenwood271 totally agree. Had a 20 year rest from landrovers, had my 109 for 3 1/2 years now. 7.50 tyres weigh more than they used to and I don’t mind rolling round under her , it’s the getting up to get a different spanner that kills me!
@@chrisgreenwood271 Apart from the aggravation of getting oil all over your ill fitting reading glasses trying to see what you are doing ! Ivan's Shed should give us hope and inspiration however for the road ahead.
the most well prepared and maintained series 3 lwb ! top work.
Nice job and well filmed given the restricted work space too.
Thanks!
Nice job!! Handy little green metal tool.
treat yourself to a bloodpressure saving gift and get an impact gun and the long bolt-thingie. life-changing!
Yeah you're not wrong, I will one day!
Thanks for the video, very helpful, I've been putting this one off for a little while now
Another great video. Thank you!
Thanks!
Great instructional video as always, @steamwally! Just: a. what do (if like me) old seal absolutely solid in housing and can’t get it to budge a millimetre (think must be still original), b. my s3 swb rear has castle nut/split pin: is it also 85 lb/ft for the castle nut?! Many thanks, Jonathan
Nice job and good timing for me, thanks - just starting both my pinion seals! I thought my rear prop had been fit wrong as the Haynes book says sleeved join near the handbrake drum on the rear axle, and near diff on front axle. It does make more sense to have it near the axles both ends though, closer the articulation?
Very helpful video. What size is the cylinder you used to knock the new seal in with? I bought the Haynes manual for my 2004 Defender 90 and can’t find any mention of replacing the front pinion seals at all so videos like yours are invaluable.
All went rather smoothly on this occasion which is good. Looked like you had some up and down movement on the steering arm when you were tightening the filler plug?
It's easy when you've done it before! Yes, there is plenty of flex in the track rods as standard, it's the bar bending not play in the joints and is quite normal. Some owners like to fit heavy duty track rods for improved road manners, something I may try.
@@steamwally I still think your land rover is the cleanest one underneath I've ever seen! Good you keep well on top of the maintenance on it👍
I see you have longer shackles for the parabolics, did you have to add any shims to get the axle back to the right geometry?
Nice videos you have - thank you. I have a Series 2A and am going nuts trying to decide whether to replace the seal with another metal cased seal like the original (which had leather as the sealing bit [County makes these replacements), or go with a rubber seal the likes of what Corteco and others offer. Which seal manufacturer did you go with and how is doing now? Many thanks
Hi Phil! Glad to see you still posting videos. I was wandering if you still had your Myford ML7? Was thinking of buying one and was curious about how heavy they are and if it's involved getting it off the base unit. Thanks very much!
Hi, yeah still around, not posting as much as I'd like but I try and put out one or two videos a month. The Myford is still doing sterling service and was in almost daily whilst I was working from home for a few months. Naturally they are pretty heavy, you'll want someone to give you a hand. Removing from the base is as simple as disconnecting some wiring and removing four bolts. They are nice little machines but commanding a premium - TBH I could well use an upgrade to a much cheaper but more ridged Boxford. Myfords are the darling of the model engineering world, highly versatile but a little stretched for anything serious.
Hi Phil, I hope you could advise! After watching this and your older video I attempted to do mine as it was spraying the underside.
To my surprise the castellated nut was completely and utterly loose and just barely hanging in there by the split pin. There was a bit of turning motion play but not excessive, I think.
Upon removing the old seal I noticed the p/o owner had left it too far forward and drive flange mud shield had take off the outer lip. The inside of the seal also wasn’t great. Does the p/os mistake of having the prop the wrong way around effect this?
Anyway, upon fitting my seal, I didn’t have something exactly appropriate to tap it into place and had to make do. This led the seal to be position quite a bit further in that I had hoped. Looks like it’s on the “next” lip in. The seal looks fine and isn’t deformed it’s just stuck further in (as I used a sealant). I decided against trying to pry it back out and likely ruining it so I’ve left it. Will this cause me further problems?
Now back to the castellated nut, I torqued it up to spec which then didn’t let me by hand turn the flange freely. I kept going down in 10 of torque until I got to only 35 which it was just about happy with. What do you think of that? I’ve used the split pin so hopefully it doesn’t undo itself.
Best wishes and I hope you can make some comments to hopefully reassure me!
Hi, sounds very familiar - every Land Rover seems to suffer PO problems! I think you have a little work to do there unfortunately, the diff uses a pair of tapered bearings and the pinion shaft runs a slight pre-load - that means that it will feel slightly stiff to turn but not tight. This is achieved by shimming the outer pinion bearings on the shaft, so that the nut can be tightened down to the correct torque without affecting the pre load.
If it's been running loose it will have likely worn the crown wheel. If you are having to run a lower torque on the drive flange then there are insufficient shims on the pinion shaft. You could probably mess about trying shims in there to get it right but perhaps now would be a good time to pull it out and send it off for overhaul. Setting up a diff is actually quite an involved job if you do it properly and it does require some engineering knowhow and measuring equipment. It's not very DIY friendly though plenty of folks have a go.
The prop shaft being reversed is a very common fault though seemingly inconsequential, so that shouldn't have caused any issues.
Sorry I can't make you feel better about it, but better to have it sorted now than when it's gone pop, and Rover diff's like to go pop!
@@steamwally thanks for that. At least I know where I stand with it. The “timken” bearing I pulled out seemed to be in pretty good Nick. It had two thin shims in front of it and then the thicker spacer. I’m a uni student (and on a budget) and the rover is just a hobby so I think I’ll make do with how it is for now and keep an eye out for a good deal on a complete axle.
Thanks again
What size were the prop shaft bolts you used ! 👍🏻
9/16 high tensile. Sold in sets everywhere.
Hi, Did you check the Pinion Shaft Bearing, it looked awfull wobbly?
The pinion bearings rely on the drive flange being fitted properly, as this retains the outer bearing - so the shaft will waggle around when all that is removed. The pinion has a pair of taper roller bearings and runs a slight pre-load when correctly assembled. It's normal to feel slight drag or stiffness when it's set correctly, something that is measured during the assembly process.
no more breaker bars for me matey, just bought an impact driver and socket set....instantaneous with finger tip control...the little beast I call it ....a chinese cheapo £50 job...not a portable one...rechargeable I mean.... but saves a lot of huff and puff.
hello steamwally i have a petter aa1 constant speed engine is there anyway to convert it to a variable speed easily and not replacing the injector pump? thanks
I had one of those many years ago - if I remember rightly, it had a plug which could be removed to get at the governor spring. I shortened the spring to slow mine down, but if you have access to a lathe (or know someone who does) I see no reason why you couldn't make up an adjuster.
@@steamwally aa thanks for the reply i will look at it temorow
Just curious is there a reason you don’t run a steering damper
I find that they make the steering a little too stiff and it doesn't self centre so easily. I find the drive is very much improved without it - no problems on rough ground either, just keep your thumbs outside the wheel.
Rr diffs? With better gearing?
No, standard diffs - perfect with the standard ratio box - they ain't built for speed :)
@@steamwally just saw the flat part on the diff house underneath. But then this is normal on other diffs also.
I know they are not made for speed, and it might be better with a over drive gear., but changed diffs sure makes the rest of the car seem calmer in 80km/h