Thanks for sharing the tip of pushing the seal all the way down (later models) I have set mine level and a bit of grease is getting past . Will now go back in and do it properly. Thanks again.
Just watching to remind myself how much easier this job is without disc brakes, did a wheel bearing on my Disco 1 earlier this month and one of the caliper bolts broke. Great guide, definitely one to save for when I get another Series motor.
Excellent use of the shaped paint scraper which has (if it's anything like mine) never been used to scrape paint.And of course an excellent and always educational video
Thanks! The right tool for the job is that which will complete the task with minimum of fuss.... I later broke said paint scraper, will have to make something proper I suppose... Phill.
Superb video and commentary. I have watched most of your productions particularly the set related to the gearbox/transfer case. You are a gifted teacher and no mistake. Few engineerring/servicing videos reach your standard in rendering the subject easy to follow in an understated matter of fact way with simple tools. Just one comment with regard this particular one concerning greasing unshielded bearings. This is widely misunderstood and the intuitive approach is be liberal with grease (always spotlessly clean and of spec recommended for the application). That approach if taken to extremes is liable to kill the new bearing with kindness or at any rate shorten service life. Less is in fact more. 90% of the grease around a well filled bearing and housing is wasted and over packing often results in the rotating elements ploughing through it generating unwanted heat and dispersing the degraded lubricant from the race. A smear each side of the ball or roller bearing with a finger full is adequate for its entire service life. Never re-grease. The best bearings for most non- professionals are the shielded sealed for life variety and incapable of being fed the wrong grease, dirty grease or simply too much. I learned this quite late in life puzzled at good quality unshielded bearings that failed on my watch having taken what I took be great care of them. They actually do better with benign neglect assuming correctly installed with a few grams of well placed grease. Keep up the good work.
Many thanks for the kind words, I appreciate all feedback received but comments like that really make the effort worth while. Your comments about the grease make a lot of sense, I haven't really thought about it like that. These new wheel bearings did run a little warm on the first long trip out, but ran cool after that - something I shall watch out for in the future. Many thanks, Phill.
You are too kind, I am just an enthusiastic bodger really! Without a DTI its just by feel. Tight enough to take up the end float, but not so tight it binds up. Nipping the nut up by hand and backing off quarter turn is a good starting point.
Great info thanks as im re building a series 2 , a bit of advice if i may ,those axle stands , ive a pair same and to my horror on inspecting em the tiny 3mm roll pin that attached release arm to "worm" had sheared clean through due to weight on them ,, a design fault ,too small a pins worth keeping an eye on , thanks again .
great videos as allways , I'll be tackling the bearings on my 75 swb soon and just getting my tool kit together , can I ask what size copper hammer would be most useful for landy maintenance ? also what are your thoughts on bearmach wheel bearings , a complete set of four is about 60 quid . your vids are my insperation and instruction manual , thanks for taking the time to do them .
Can’t get my head around it but is there a seal stopping axel oil and bearing grease mixing? On some axles up to 80/81 I’ve seen a felt cotton seal (RTC3515) but not on all.
Hi! Its Nacho from Spain, one question, is there any gap between the inner bearing and the gasket? I can't really notice in your video, and when I replaced it there was like an inch between both. Excellent work!! I enjoy your videos and they help me so much. Cheers!!
I just saw that you explain it on minute 14. So there should not be a preload on the inner bearing and it will go a bit deeper than the manual says, is that right? Thanks!!
Awesome videos dude, quick one for you though, what grease did you use on the bearings and what (lubricant?) did you apply to the seal prior to fitting it? Cheers, and keep up the splendid work. Olly
Oliver Webb Thanks, a good general purpose lithium grease is what you need, just pack the bearings, you don't need to pack the hubs as I did in the video, since corrected... I use a bit of RTV or Blue hylomar on the seals before fitting. Just a drop is good practice.
At 11:05 mark in the video, you appear to be applied some sort of sealant from a yellow tube, unto the mating surface of the rubber hub seal. What product are you using? I've notice some people use nothing, some use grease, and some use various sealants. I'm wondering what is the best product for this application, to prevent oil leaks around the rubber seal mating surface?
That was Blue Hylomar, I have found this, Loctite RTV and Wellseal to work well in that application. In theory no sealant is required but in practice, an old hub will likely have a few nicks and dings from previous overhauls and a smear of sealant is a good insurance. Be careful what you use, some sealants can cause the seal to pop out of place, I believe Loctite make a dedicated "seal sealant" which would probably be the way to go.
Yes, if set correctly you will just feel slight end float. I set mine the tighter end of the tolerance but it is important to have that end float. Most of the time, you get away with too little end float on land Rovers because of the low speeds they generally travel at and short journeys. I have seen stub axles badly worn where the inner bearing has spun on the shaft because the bearing was set too tight, it's important to set properly but I have also known MOT testers to fail correctly set wheel bearings because they can feel play....
hi i have a series 3 109 1975 i think she has 11 inch front brakes but i cannot get the correct timkens bearings do you know the ref number ps love the videos big help cheers...
Hi, have a look on eBay, there are various sellers with wheel bearing kits for pre or post 1980 Series motors. That's how I tracked down the type required. If not an eBay user, most of those sellers have their own website. Phill.
Hey brother, I noticed you paid quite a lot of attention to the depth when you were hammering the new races into the hub, is there not a shoulder or something you just hit it into until it bottoms out on or is it a depth you have to carefully self monitor? Cheers and thanks :)
There is a machined lip for each race, I was just checking that the races were driven fully home. This is the reason why you should nip the bearing up hard and rotate the wheel a few times before setting - it helps to settle the bearings. Cheers, Phill.
Excellent, man. Thanks very much. How does the drive member removal go on the front axle with regard to the pivoting? is it just a short axle that slides out with the drive member or do you have to disengage the axle from the pivot before you can pull it out? Many thanks, I've just started diggin into one and you are pretty much doing the same lot :D
The drive member just pulls off the splines, but you leave the drive shafts in for the front. It's a lot more work if you want to take those out as the stub axle must be removed.
Hi Phil. ive just got a c12 Villiers powered cement mixer. Can I use unleaded fuel or do I need to add a lead replacement additive? I want to see if she'll run !
Unleaded fuel will be fine, the lead was added to fuel to help prevent pre-detonation or "pinking" which can eventually burn out the valve seats. Not a problem for a little old mixer engine with a relatively low compression ratio.
+steamwally thanks Phil. Ive been trying to id the motor. It says type c.12.07.62 i think this means its a type 12 is the rest the date? It has a B10/2 carb. I know it was a few years since you had yours.
It's a gib head key extractor, just happened to be a handy thing for the job, a pry bar will do. Gib keys are tapered and typically used to retain flywheels and pulleys on agricultural machinery. The curved drift is used because it avoids point loading, a normal tapered wedge can crack a cast flywheel or pulley. They are a bit old school and you find taper locks and flanged hubs used in the same applications these days.
Read the other comments! On an earlier series 3 you would be correct, but this is a post 1980 model and it therefore has the later type of axle, with a modified design of hub - so the seals are infact installed correctly.
This video is absolutely brilliant and just what I needed because I'm about to start restoring a 109 axle, thank you.
Thanks for sharing the tip of pushing the seal all the way down (later models) I have set mine level and a bit of grease is getting past . Will now go back in and do it properly. Thanks again.
Just watching to remind myself how much easier this job is without disc brakes, did a wheel bearing on my Disco 1 earlier this month and one of the caliper bolts broke. Great guide, definitely one to save for when I get another Series motor.
subscribed 😀 good to see a young bloke willing and able with spanners......
Many thanks
A big thank you.
For your time and effort to share your skills.
I guess thats the Landrover spirit.
No worries, thanks for looking.
Excellent use of the shaped paint scraper which has (if it's anything like mine) never been used to scrape paint.And of course an excellent and always educational video
Thanks! The right tool for the job is that which will complete the task with minimum of fuss.... I later broke said paint scraper, will have to make something proper I suppose...
Phill.
Superb video and commentary. I have watched most of your productions particularly the set related to the gearbox/transfer case. You are a gifted teacher and no mistake. Few engineerring/servicing videos reach your standard in rendering the subject easy to follow in an understated matter of fact way with simple tools. Just one comment with regard this particular one concerning greasing unshielded bearings. This is widely misunderstood and the intuitive approach is be liberal with grease (always spotlessly clean and of spec recommended for the application). That approach if taken to extremes is liable to kill the new bearing with kindness or at any rate shorten service life. Less is in fact more. 90% of the grease around a well filled bearing and housing is wasted and over packing often results in the rotating elements ploughing through it generating unwanted heat and dispersing the degraded lubricant from the race. A smear each side of the ball or roller bearing with a finger full is adequate for its entire service life. Never re-grease. The best bearings for most non- professionals are the shielded sealed for life variety and incapable of being fed the wrong grease, dirty grease or simply too much. I learned this quite late in life puzzled at good quality unshielded bearings that failed on my watch having taken what I took be great care of them. They actually do better with benign neglect assuming correctly installed with a few grams of well placed grease. Keep up the good work.
Many thanks for the kind words, I appreciate all feedback received but comments like that really make the effort worth while.
Your comments about the grease make a lot of sense, I haven't really thought about it like that. These new wheel bearings did run a little warm on the first long trip out, but ran cool after that - something I shall watch out for in the future.
Many thanks,
Phill.
Thanks buddy your video Helped me get the hub of my series 3's rear axle👍
Great vid phill I'll remember these tips for when I do my series3 v8 lightwight
Excellent Land Rover videos! Keep them coming!
Thank you, I'm sure the old lass will make sure of that....
brilliant, so much useful information, please do keep them coming!
Fantastic spannering skills. An old head on young shoulders. What's the best way without a dial gauge?
Keep the films coming
You are too kind, I am just an enthusiastic bodger really! Without a DTI its just by feel. Tight enough to take up the end float, but not so tight it binds up. Nipping the nut up by hand and backing off quarter turn is a good starting point.
Well thought out and helpful! Great work, and thanks!
Great info thanks as im re building a series 2 , a bit of advice if i may ,those axle stands , ive a pair same and to my horror on inspecting em the tiny 3mm roll pin that attached release arm to "worm" had sheared clean through due to weight on them ,, a design fault ,too small a pins worth keeping an eye on , thanks again .
Ahhhhh the old put-a-slit-in-the-old-bearing-to-use-as-a-driving-tool-for-the-new-bearing trick
Indeed, worked like a charm!
Excellent video
Awesome job, thanks for all the useful tips and tricks . Cheers
brilliant video chief.
Could you tell me the bearing numbers and the size of the socket you used on the hub nut please?
1x RTC3416 Bearing
1x RTC3426 Bearing
1x RTC3515 Felt Seal
1x RTC3510 Hub Seal
1x 231505 Hub Gasket
1 x 606435 Hub nut spanner is a 52 mm socket
great videos as allways , I'll be tackling the bearings on my 75 swb soon and just getting my tool kit together , can I ask what size copper hammer would be most useful for landy maintenance ? also what are your thoughts on bearmach wheel bearings , a complete set of four is about 60 quid . your vids are my insperation and instruction manual , thanks for taking the time to do them .
Oh hang on, the bearing races can pop out of the hubs?! That's great!! We can save 2 of our hubs then :D
Can’t get my head around it but is there a seal stopping axel oil and bearing grease mixing? On some axles up to 80/81 I’ve seen a felt cotton seal (RTC3515) but not on all.
Hi! Its Nacho from Spain, one question, is there any gap between the inner bearing and the gasket? I can't really notice in your video, and when I replaced it there was like an inch between both.
Excellent work!! I enjoy your videos and they help me so much. Cheers!!
I just saw that you explain it on minute 14. So there should not be a preload on the inner bearing and it will go a bit deeper than the manual says, is that right? Thanks!!
Oil seal installed backwards! Spring side of seal always faces oil
Quite a few have said this now! The seal is not installed backwards, this is correct for a post 1980 Series 3.
Nice work.
nice little video ... cheers
Thanks Colin
Awesome videos dude, quick one for you though, what grease did you use on the bearings and what (lubricant?) did you apply to the seal prior to fitting it? Cheers, and keep up the splendid work. Olly
Oliver Webb Thanks, a good general purpose lithium grease is what you need, just pack the bearings, you don't need to pack the hubs as I did in the video, since corrected... I use a bit of RTV or Blue hylomar on the seals before fitting. Just a drop is good practice.
Is it the same bearings for the standard axle and Salisbury?
I think you should overhaul your steering box next, I've just started mine...ha ha
Job for the future.....
I can’t even get past the second step haha, I try to pry the cap off and just end up bending the edges of the cap, and bending my tool, too.
At 11:05 mark in the video, you appear to be applied some sort of sealant from a yellow tube, unto the mating surface of the rubber hub seal. What product are you using? I've notice some people use nothing, some use grease, and some use various sealants. I'm wondering what is the best product for this application, to prevent oil leaks around the rubber seal mating surface?
That was Blue Hylomar, I have found this, Loctite RTV and Wellseal to work well in that application. In theory no sealant is required but in practice, an old hub will likely have a few nicks and dings from previous overhauls and a smear of sealant is a good insurance. Be careful what you use, some sealants can cause the seal to pop out of place, I believe Loctite make a dedicated "seal sealant" which would probably be the way to go.
@@steamwally thanks for reply. I'm rebuilding a Series III rear axle and have a tube of hylomar. Maybe I'll use it on the seal same a you did.
@steamwally, Are you able to feel play when the wheel is on? I set mine to the proper end float, but I could feel the play still.
Yes, if set correctly you will just feel slight end float. I set mine the tighter end of the tolerance but it is important to have that end float. Most of the time, you get away with too little end float on land Rovers because of the low speeds they generally travel at and short journeys. I have seen stub axles badly worn where the inner bearing has spun on the shaft because the bearing was set too tight, it's important to set properly but I have also known MOT testers to fail correctly set wheel bearings because they can feel play....
@@steamwally thanks an awful lot, mate! 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Hello Mr phill I want to ask you some questions about Land Rover engine if you can please
hi i have a series 3 109 1975 i think she has 11 inch front brakes but i cannot get the correct timkens bearings do you know the ref number ps love the videos big help cheers...
Hi, have a look on eBay, there are various sellers with wheel bearing kits for pre or post 1980 Series motors. That's how I tracked down the type required. If not an eBay user, most of those sellers have their own website.
Phill.
Hey brother, I noticed you paid quite a lot of attention to the depth when you were hammering the new races into the hub, is there not a shoulder or something you just hit it into until it bottoms out on or is it a depth you have to carefully self monitor?
Cheers and thanks :)
There is a machined lip for each race, I was just checking that the races were driven fully home. This is the reason why you should nip the bearing up hard and rotate the wheel a few times before setting - it helps to settle the bearings.
Cheers,
Phill.
Excellent, man. Thanks very much.
How does the drive member removal go on the front axle with regard to the pivoting? is it just a short axle that slides out with the drive member or do you have to disengage the axle from the pivot before you can pull it out? Many thanks, I've just started diggin into one and you are pretty much doing the same lot :D
The drive member just pulls off the splines, but you leave the drive shafts in for the front. It's a lot more work if you want to take those out as the stub axle must be removed.
that's EXACTLY what I was hoping to hear :D
Keep it up, brother. You'll be hearing from me again, I'm sure.
What size is the socket? Also my axle doesn't come off like yours, any clue? Cheers
52mm
Hi Phil. ive just got a c12 Villiers powered cement mixer. Can I use unleaded fuel or do I need to add a lead replacement additive? I want to see if she'll run !
Unleaded fuel will be fine, the lead was added to fuel to help prevent pre-detonation or "pinking" which can eventually burn out the valve seats. Not a problem for a little old mixer engine with a relatively low compression ratio.
+steamwally thanks Phil. Ive been trying to id the motor. It says type c.12.07.62 i think this means its a type 12 is the rest the date? It has a B10/2 carb. I know it was a few years since you had yours.
Sounds like a pretty standard C12 to me, guess it's got the reduction/ reverse gearbox and an oil bath filter.
+steamwally its got the wet mesh type air filter. No gearbox on the engine it drives the mixer by belt. I think the mixer has the gearbox!
What tool is that scythe shaped thing you use to lever off the hub caps?
It's a gib head key extractor, just happened to be a handy thing for the job, a pry bar will do. Gib keys are tapered and typically used to retain flywheels and pulleys on agricultural machinery. The curved drift is used because it avoids point loading, a normal tapered wedge can crack a cast flywheel or pulley. They are a bit old school and you find taper locks and flanged hubs used in the same applications these days.
Wow, thx for replying. Have watched so many of your videos, they are really helpful! Phil (1978 series 3 88)
I think I didn't fix my wheel bearing right. I watched a different video and this is now how it was done. It was different in it.
Are you sure that seals in the right way? Check your manual.
Yes, you'll find quite a few comments about that - the method seen here is correct for a post 1980 series 3 hub.
Another job ticked off, and looks like you even managed a hair cut as well.....!!
Just in time too, been fantastically hot today.... been at a steam railway for the day with the stationary engines.
oil seal installed backwards.
Read the other comments! On an earlier series 3 you would be correct, but this is a post 1980 model and it therefore has the later type of axle, with a modified design of hub - so the seals are infact installed correctly.
I'm confused. All these years I thought you were a man in his mid 40's but it looks like you are in your 20's.