There are guys that make a million buck destroying cars on UA-cam. Here you are fixing things. Your channel deserves the $$$. this is valuable info!! I will be sharing this with my buddies. Awesome work and again your commentary is hilarious and Vera is awesome!
Thank you very much. I do not find the “buy new and destroy videos” funny or entertaining. They depress me to the bones. Thanks for recognizing this. Christian
Constantly challenging the Land Rover "boundaries." Well done. I love your work. Vera & Christian, it is your type of pioneering leadership that led to a Land Rover being created in the very beginning.
Thank you for showing this seal can be replaced without 1) dissembling the front end, 2) it can be replaced and not a diff replacement job, and 3) it can be done at home. I can't believe you received three thumbs downs (when I wrote this) - this video benefits every one - except Land Rover. Maybe the three thumbs down's were Land Rover employees??
As I'm reading the comments, I was wondering about the thumbs down myself. Maybe Christian and Vera are stealing someone's thunder, but I think you guys are doing a great job. Thanks for the cool videos
@@louispretorius1989 hope we did not insult anyone at LR. We like LR a lot including all the dedicated people working there. My statements are facts as far as I know. The first thumbs down is normal and it is within the first hour, so it must be a hater subscriber. Then we collect 0.3 % thumbs down in average on our videos. Which is ok according to UA-cam and it does not harm the impressions. If we get more, like 3%, we will turn the video off. This has luckily not happened... Christian
An excellent video as usual. Thank you so much for taking the time and trouble to video these little episodes. I only just found you but I am subscribed. Waiting for the next one. Paul from Liverpool.
Great to see a work around rather than just replace the big bits. I have no problems reusing bolts and re torque them but I would always replace ones that have been torqued and then turned through 90 degrees - just what I was always taught as they get stretched. Now I am off to order a lathe 😜👍keep up the good work and well done Vera for keeping the boys on track 😁
I actually turned less than 90 deg and I guessed a torque of 80 Nm. That made it click and this is what I used on all bolts. Should have replaced them but did not... Good catch that you noticed. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian yea it's a strange one really and I never thought about it until after I posted it but although by turning the bolt more it in theory stretches it, how does this differ any more than applying additional torque? For example if they were nipped up to say 60nm and then turned 90 degrees and this equates to say 80nm why a torque of 80nm class them as stretch bolts 🤷♂️. It baffles me lol. Anyway thanks for the reply👍
Love what you guys have done and looking forward to what you have ahead. I got a 2007 TDV6 HSE in 2018, not know anything about LR's nor what we were up against until I got a diagnosis report + a bill of Kenya Shillings 2,000,000.00, thats and equivalent of 15,707.63 Euro to restore it. Remember we had spent way less to purchase the car. The company told us the car was beyond repair yet offered to purchase it from us, we decided not to sell. I took 1 year researching and watching LR Time, then the DIY Journey begun in 2020. I have fixed the car myself from the ground up courtesy of LR TIME. Recently I noticed a clunky noise and today I checked and found where the drive shaft connects to the front Diff, there is a little play, might the issue be the pinion seal just like Fabians? I’d like to address this as soon as possible. Thanks for your edutainment.
Can you send an email, it is really hard for us to reply to technical questions in the comment section since we get so so many comments and it is hard to find it again after we looked into that problem. 👍🙋♀️
Very interesting episode, Fabian is very lucky to get his vehicle fixed like this and well done for outsmarting the boys from Solihull; they want £2000 for dealing with a differential oil seal on my Range Rover!
Every workshop needs to have a Vera, mine is a Heather and when I work on the discovery 3 she is never to be found,, from Northern Ireland greatly appreciated 😁😁😁😁😁☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️👍👍👍👍👍
When ever I do something like that I always count the turns that it takes to remove the retaining nut/bolt etc... just another added level of clarification. Good video.
Man wish you the luck in every single video you post. I have disco series 2 and l322 and now im thinking of adding lr3 to the family and you one of the reason why i will buy one👏👏👏🙏🏼💐
Always amazed by how much you must know about this vehicle to be able to work on it like this. And how much you seem to enjoy doing it - a 'labour of love' perhaps? I'd guess that conventional dealer service procedures are part of the original design remit. Luckily sometimes there are good short cuts owners discover.
Enjoy these videos immensely. In the UK, especially out in the country, getting all Landies fixed is much cheaper and easier. I have the opposite problem. I have G wagen and even the Merc dealer struggles.
Wow what an excellent job. When changing the diff oil I use an electric oil pump from Lidl (£14) makes the job quick and easy. Just prime the pipes with oil and then add the required amount of oil in a jug and switch on. Regards Peter.
Hello Peter, we also have an electric oil pump, but we use it only on the Challenger. That way I also get to do something and not wait around the entire time 😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
More than interested Christian it’s a joy to see someone thinking outside the box jlr would charge ££££ for that job you did it for less than £40 keep all these useful videos up
Very very good videos and very educational you are a very clever man and skilful man thank you for your time mate and hi from the state of Victoria Melbourne!!
Wow that was great piece of work, Christian you are genious with such a good mechanical skills including machining. You did it what land rover couldn't do and on top it you saved lot money. I salute to you and also saying thanks to great help from Vera giving fantastic support. Well done guys.
Hi guys again as always another very interesting informative video and another one to go into my reference file for when I encounter a front diff oil seal problem on my disco 3 take care 👍🇬🇧
Great video - thanks for making it. On the diff oil level and the 610ml - as you found when you undid the pinion seal and the oil ran out - you never get all the oil out. As a result the amount to put in, in technical sense when taking the oil already in the diff could be 590ml, 630ml who knows. 10 years ago when I did my first diff oil change I put in 610ml and guess what - it was at the bottom of the hole - so 10 years later and 200,000km later with oil changes every 24,000km I just fill to the bottom of the hole. No issues. Same applies with the transfer case and rear diff. Easier and simpler to just fill to the bottom of the hole - there is only a few ml in it either way.
At min 20:18 you see the oil pan under the car again because we drained it completely before refill. But I agree, it is no rocket science and the oil level is not that critical on an open differential. I just like to follow instructions, I guess that’s how we germans are... Thanks for your comment. 👍 Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian, I used to follow the LR fill recommendations at first oil change, but later on, I figured it is easier and quicker to fill to a draining hole on all diffs, making sure the new updated breather cap with GORE-TEX membrane is installed on the front diff. I think the intervals are more important than amount. I change diffs oils every 25-30 000 miles. I am approaching 300 000 miles on my LR3 and all is still good.
@@Vera_and_Christian I hope you will.I have done my share of preventable maintainance on my own, but your methodical approach is always entertaining.Keep those videos coming and please remember to post a video, that you have promised , about actual measurements of the rear sliding platform.
Another great video. with all these one off, specialised tools you are making, it won't be long before you have opened your own Dealership!! Christian getting all the backache, Vera looking pretty passing spanners.
Great video as usual however I have to make a couple of remarks: The most likely cause of the seal leakage is as you pointed out was the positive pressure in the difference housing, most likely due to a blocked breather, this type of seal relies on being able pump the escaping oil back, it also pumps an amount of air too, a positive pressure in the diff when you pulled the drain plug out would stop the seal from functioning I must pull you up for putting grease into the dynamic pumping features of the seal face, but worst of all using the fingers of your dirty gloves introducing dirt into the area with the grease ☹ oil seals are already coated with a wax lubricant which is visible under UV light no further grease is required as it carbonises in the pumping features of the seal and make it less effective or leak. 👍👍👍
I remember replacing this seal on my 2005 WK Grand Cherokee CRD with the Dana 44 Axle... I marked the nut for before and after and it seemed to work perfectly with no whine or noise. Regarding your air suspension, is there not an override on the switches to disable the auto adjust, its something my 04 Cayenne has and thought the LR system seems to be the same. Great video!
Guten mogen guys.........😂 Fabian is so lucky 🍀 that you've the knowledge and understanding how land rovers work 😆 Going too any main dealer will have your pants pulled down 🙄 Love Vera 😘 Take care enjoy your week looking forward to seeing the next fantastic video. Cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
👍 It was badly leaking. You could see it in the beginning. The problem is that this Disco is not ours, so we unfortunatly cannot prepare videos in depth like we can with our car sitting in the driveway all the time.🙋♀️ Vera
Great job and great channel. I have repaired my 2 d3's also a lot. I have gave my money on dealership diagnostics 2 times, and realized that they only take money and doesent give you s*it 😁. Since then i have done all my repairs myself. First d3 had a s*itty wire plug @ hpfp(lower solenoid), and dealership told that pump has weared out(hpfp + manhours ~2k€). Reality was 5hours work(also hpfp belt got changed during). Had some bad wires and compressor problems. Compressor problems was caused by moisture granules. They were old and not granules anymore, emitted powder/dust to air system and that caused valves failing. Ofcourse noone offers that repair, only new compressor. I bought somekind drying bag(filled with moisture granules)and replaced granules in compressor dryier. Cleaned valves, and no problems since. Keep up the good work 👍💪
That is great, I am going to remember how you fixed your problem once we run into it. Great job. We strongly believe that it's difficult driving an older Land Rover, or any other maker of Luxury SUV, when you are not able to fix it yourself. 👍🙋♀️ Vera
Christian & Vera great video, thank you for all the knowledge you are putting out there, you could have 3D printed that tool, it as going to take longer to print than to machined
Hej Guys. I just love watching your vids. Keep up the good work. I would like to point out a couple of issues with your work on this diff. When you mount the new seal it is advisable NOT to oil/ grease the outside seating edge of the seal as this could be pushed out by over pressure in the diff housing. Use instead some methylated spirits. Also, when you measure the depth of the nut, it is better to measure the depth of the pinion shaft instead because the nut depth is always the same as it is against the bottom of the flange.
Fabian is very fortunate to have you as a friend although I am beginning to wonder when you might tire of fixing his car. Can anything else possibly be wrong with it!!? Simon
Hi thanks again for another excellent video what a team you both make. You have given me the confidence to tackle jobs myself.on my Range Rover Sport L320 2013 .All the best and I look forward to your next video.Steven
Blocked Diff breather is the cause of your leak, diff pressure that great would easily breach the seal. You MUST clean the breather out ! or it will pressurize and leak again.
The front diff breather was modified and was a service action that no dealer bothered about. I still see 2005 D3’s in 2021 that has the original breather still installed.
@@Vera_and_Christian all good I found the LR TSB for it, interestingly all my D3 has is a piece of open tube, no cap at all so goodness knows what muck is in it.
Hi, as always awesome content , hope it was ok , but shared this one as well on some of the Land Rover forums ( landyzone and discovery 3 forums) as that will be very helpful, done the same ref the axle breather , I extended mine up near the scuttle panel so was well out the way as see it’s tucked down by the expansion tank , then fitted the new style breather , wonder because that breather was blocked if it caused that pinion seal to leak ?? , thanks so much to u and Vera for taking the time to share such informative videos ,ps, reminds me I’ve got to work out how to fit my front soft nudge bar , bumper has to come off and some plates I think are fitted onto the front impact bar
That is always appreciated. And yes we think it did leak because of a blocked breather. Still wondering if that happened because of all the offroading and wading this Discovery has done in the past. 👍🙋♀️ Vera
Hey Christian, what are your thoughts about lubricating your bolts with copper grease but still using the original torque setting from the manual that may base on a dry bolt? I came across this issue very recently and the change in the friction factor is significant.
Hello Alex, my method is to not use copper grease on any critical or none corroded bolt. Like Driveshaft, Aluminum housings, internals, wheel lugs, brakes, etc. I use plenty of antiseeze for rosty body mount bolts. The bolt is not harmed normally by the reduced friction coefficient but the thread or the mating comment is. It can strip the thread. If it is not accessible or a single bolt, I would use care and not go by the book. I crushed a wishbone bracket before, using specified torque and the wrench would not klick. I could feel the structure caving in... Clearly because it was somewhat hollow and me using copper paste. Christian
Hi Christian, check Land Rover Technical Service Bulletin LTB00245, typically oil leaking from front diff are caused by blocked differential breather and the bulletin suggest to replace the breather cap with a new type (LR019450). :-)
Wow, the dealer that serviced this vehicle didn't do this fix, which ultimately caused the front diff leak. That's another fail by dealership maintenance; from another LR Time video the oil pan sump plug was found to be in very poor condition. And since the dealership quoted the replacement cost, did they give advice that it could be a blocked differential breather?
Love these videos, i really enjoy watching talented people make thingsbor repair them. Can i please make one request ? Next video can you please say "GET TO THE CHOPPER!!!" 😂😂
😬😬😬 Forgot about it. It got really late and it was cold and Vera was complaining and the dog was tired. These are my excuses.... I can name more.... Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian But pressurisation of the differential was probably the reason why oil was being forced by the seal, yes? So won't the same problem occur again unless you clean the breather? I am also intrigued why the diff was pressurised. Was it warm or even hot when you started the job? Bear in mind that you may also have slightly over-filled the diff with oil as the diff was angled when you drained it: even though the oil seal was holding some back, I think some may have been retained in the 'sump'. Sorry, I don't know how the breather is configured: does it actually vent remotely so that, when wading, water doesn't enter? On old Unimogs, for example, the whole system, front and rear axles, vents through a cross-drilled vent bolt in the gearbox cover....(.. but this isn't a Unimog!). Is there a similar remote vent or vents? Lovely video by the way: we were thinking together as I watched it.... Thanks!
The pinion shaft seal on my old '92 Toyota Forunner rear diff failed at 420K the front diff pinion Seal was still sealing fine when the 'Runner was sold at about 450K, why does a LandRover Disco need the seal replaced at 180K, and the Dealership would have replaced the whole assembly, who dreams this stuff up, sheesh! Great work Christian, to save Fabian an "arm and leg'. No wonder LandRover has a "rip off" reputation...
It turns out that the problem is the vent tube. I learned from the vwiewers now, that there is actually a service bulletin from LR. Not all dealerships may replace the whole assembly... The service manual is from 2005 and maybe they updated it. I don´t know. Thanks for your comment. Christian
Great video, but if the differential was under pressure from a blocked breather, surely that's what forced the oil past the seal? Did you find why the breather was blocked?
We believe it is a manufacturing defect. Mine, on my Discovery 3, was also blocked, not obstructed by debris, and we replaced it with a new DIY breather tip. 👍🙋♀️
Land Rover owners are DEFINITELY made into better mechanics. Great work and very entertaining. Of interest; what might Fabian have saved with that home job? 🤑 👍🏻😷🙏🏽🦘
As always; great work! Very interesting. Any chance you may be tackling a rear diff rebuild? I can't find much info in the forums online. Did another diff oil change but found what look like bearing chips. :( Oddly no noise yet but I'm thinking of buying a used rear diff to open up & try a rebuild. Any tips/pointers from anyone would be appreciated! Thanks again!
@@Vera_and_Christian Thanks for taking the time to reply! I have checked it out; good stuff. He hasn't tackled the rear diff either. 'Preload' scares me so I've got a lot to learn still. Thanks again.
Have you encountered differential breather problems? When I changed my front LR3 differential oil recently, the fill plug blew off and spewed oil. It was clearly under a lot of pressure. I understand that a bad breather can damage the diff over time. Any experience with differential breathers to share? Thanks!
seal was leaking under pressure because the air vent was blocked nice job well done
You guys should start your own LR repair business!
Amazing work! Your skill like Vera's patients never cease to impress me. Keep up the great work.
Vera we all know that these jobs wouldn't be possible without your vast expertise and patience lol
😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
There are guys that make a million buck destroying cars on UA-cam. Here you are fixing things. Your channel deserves the $$$. this is valuable info!! I will be sharing this with my buddies. Awesome work and again your commentary is hilarious and Vera is awesome!
Thank you very much. I do not find the “buy new and destroy videos” funny or entertaining. They depress me to the bones. Thanks for recognizing this. Christian
Constantly challenging the Land Rover "boundaries." Well done. I love your work.
Vera & Christian, it is your type of pioneering leadership that led to a Land Rover being created in the very beginning.
Is Vera always smiling? Even when things go wrong, she is there smiling 😁
Always nice to come home from church and find a video from the dynamic duo of Dr. C and Vera.
,,Definitely doable for everybody, I think, except for the Land Rover.'' Great point of this movie. Thanks for the video 👍👍👍
Thank you for showing this seal can be replaced without 1) dissembling the front end, 2) it can be replaced and not a diff replacement job, and 3) it can be done at home.
I can't believe you received three thumbs downs (when I wrote this) - this video benefits every one - except Land Rover. Maybe the three thumbs down's were Land Rover employees??
👍😃 We get one thumbs down as soon as the video is released, or in the first hour 😅. We actually wait for it, it's funny. 🙋♀️ Vera
As I'm reading the comments, I was wondering about the thumbs down myself. Maybe Christian and Vera are stealing someone's thunder, but I think you guys are doing a great job. Thanks for the cool videos
@@louispretorius1989 hope we did not insult anyone at LR. We like LR a lot including all the dedicated people working there. My statements are facts as far as I know. The first thumbs down is normal and it is within the first hour, so it must be a hater subscriber. Then we collect 0.3 % thumbs down in average on our videos. Which is ok according to UA-cam and it does not harm the impressions. If we get more, like 3%, we will turn the video off. This has luckily not happened... Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian My wife and I really enjoy your videos, so I hope you won't stop.
Love your pit and your machine shop! You guys do great videos and thank you for doing them in English
You and wife are great! Love all your videos, very helpful.
mate you are a legend i don't know how you do it.
An excellent video as usual. Thank you so much for taking the time and trouble to video these little episodes. I only just found you but I am subscribed. Waiting for the next one. Paul from Liverpool.
👍😀 welcome🙋♀️ Vera
Great to see a work around rather than just replace the big bits. I have no problems reusing bolts and re torque them but I would always replace ones that have been torqued and then turned through 90 degrees - just what I was always taught as they get stretched. Now I am off to order a lathe 😜👍keep up the good work and well done Vera for keeping the boys on track 😁
I actually turned less than 90 deg and I guessed a torque of 80 Nm. That made it click and this is what I used on all bolts. Should have replaced them but did not... Good catch that you noticed. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian yea it's a strange one really and I never thought about it until after I posted it but although by turning the bolt more it in theory stretches it, how does this differ any more than applying additional torque? For example if they were nipped up to say 60nm and then turned 90 degrees and this equates to say 80nm why a torque of 80nm class them as stretch bolts 🤷♂️. It baffles me lol. Anyway thanks for the reply👍
@@kviasen7603 nice to know cheers😁
Yet another very good video, one of my favourite channels both for content and for the way you both come across in the videos. 👍👍
Love what you guys have done and looking forward to what you have ahead.
I got a 2007 TDV6 HSE in 2018, not know anything about LR's nor what we were up against until I got a diagnosis report + a bill of Kenya Shillings 2,000,000.00, thats and equivalent of 15,707.63 Euro to restore it.
Remember we had spent way less to purchase the car. The company told us the car was beyond repair yet offered to purchase it from us, we decided not to sell.
I took 1 year researching and watching LR Time, then the DIY Journey begun in 2020.
I have fixed the car myself from the ground up courtesy of LR TIME.
Recently I noticed a clunky noise and today I checked and found where the drive shaft connects to the front Diff, there is a little play, might the issue be the pinion seal just like Fabians?
I’d like to address this as soon as possible. Thanks for your edutainment.
Can you send an email, it is really hard for us to reply to technical questions in the comment section since we get so so many comments and it is hard to find it again after we looked into that problem. 👍🙋♀️
Another great vid, I reckon Fabian owes you big time. 👍
Christian and Vera great video and presentation, and usual great entertainment for us all, fabian welcome to the team,,,,,)))))) 😀 🇬🇧
Very interesting episode, Fabian is very lucky to get his vehicle fixed like this and well done for outsmarting the boys from Solihull; they want £2000 for dealing with a differential oil seal on my Range Rover!
😳👍🙋♀️ Vera
Don’t own a Land Rover/Range Rover but your videos are so interesting to watch. Keep up the good work!
great video, as a JLR technician I would always Loctite the splines of the flange to seal and stop any fluid leaking out that way
Excellent video! And of course, Land Rover has to take the whole car apart to replace that part. So true! Danke shoen!
I can smell it from here! 😂😂😂. You guys have a great sense of humour. English is impeccable.
Every workshop needs to have a Vera, mine is a Heather and when I work on the discovery 3 she is never to be found,, from Northern Ireland greatly appreciated 😁😁😁😁😁☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️👍👍👍👍👍
😅👍 🙋♀️ Vera
Thanks for a fantastic video! I've always filled my LR3 differentials until they dribble out. For years I've done this, no problems.
When ever I do something like that I always count the turns that it takes to remove the retaining nut/bolt etc... just another added level of clarification. Good video.
Yes, I forgot to do that and then I had to rely on the end point to see if my marks align. Thanks, Christian
What a team you guys are amazing great job !!!!
Man wish you the luck in every single video you post. I have disco series 2 and l322 and now im thinking of adding lr3 to the family and you one of the reason why i will buy one👏👏👏🙏🏼💐
😃👍🙋♀️ Vera
You're a Discovery 3 wizard Christian! I've learnt so much from this channel. Wish I had you here to work on my Disco 3!
👌👌👌👍.......Great work. What an assistant wera is😘
😃👍🙋♀️ Vera
Always amazed by how much you must know about this vehicle to be able to work on it like this. And how much you seem to enjoy doing it - a 'labour of love' perhaps? I'd guess that conventional dealer service procedures are part of the original design remit. Luckily sometimes there are good short cuts owners discover.
👍 it's like he is a Discovery whisperer 😅🙋♀️ Vera
Thanks the best LR3 PROGRAM on UA-cam!!! Good job
😊🙏👍🙋♀️ Vera
Enjoy these videos immensely. In the UK, especially out in the country, getting all Landies fixed is much cheaper and easier. I have the opposite problem. I have G wagen and even the Merc dealer struggles.
Wow what an excellent job. When changing the diff oil I use an electric oil pump from Lidl (£14) makes the job quick and easy. Just prime the pipes with oil and then add the required amount of oil in a jug and switch on.
Regards
Peter.
Hello Peter, we also have an electric oil pump, but we use it only on the Challenger. That way I also get to do something and not wait around the entire time 😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
I wish this was my Land rover you were working on!
😀👍🙋♀️ Vera
Amazing information best or tech on UA-cam by far !! LR TIME❤
Now Fabian's Disco become mouse project 😂😂😂
Well done guys. With very good assistant.
More than interested Christian it’s a joy to see someone thinking outside the box jlr would charge ££££ for that job you did it for less than £40 keep all these useful videos up
🙏👍🙋♀️ Vera
Vera is the best helper
Love the fact you made a tool, I used a large socket over mine and tapped it in.
👍 Whatever works is great 🙋♀️ Vera
You guys amaze me every time. Awsome 👍
Very very good videos and very educational you are a very clever man and skilful man thank you for your time mate and hi from the state of Victoria Melbourne!!
😃👍🙋♀️ Vera
Wow that was great piece of work, Christian you are genious with such a good mechanical skills including machining. You did it what land rover couldn't do and on top it you saved lot money. I salute to you and also saying thanks to great help from Vera giving fantastic support. Well done guys.
🙏😀👍🙋♀️ Vera
Hi guys again as always another very interesting informative video and another one to go into my reference file for when I encounter a front diff oil seal problem on my disco 3 take care 👍🇬🇧
If you check the breather tube regularly, you might not have a problem with the pinion seal ever. We are for sure going to do that now. 😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
You are a super hero!!! I love you guys, keep up the great videos.
Great video - thanks for making it. On the diff oil level and the 610ml - as you found when you undid the pinion seal and the oil ran out - you never get all the oil out. As a result the amount to put in, in technical sense when taking the oil already in the diff could be 590ml, 630ml who knows. 10 years ago when I did my first diff oil change I put in 610ml and guess what - it was at the bottom of the hole - so 10 years later and 200,000km later with oil changes every 24,000km I just fill to the bottom of the hole. No issues. Same applies with the transfer case and rear diff. Easier and simpler to just fill to the bottom of the hole - there is only a few ml in it either way.
At min 20:18 you see the oil pan under the car again because we drained it completely before refill. But I agree, it is no rocket science and the oil level is not that critical on an open differential. I just like to follow instructions, I guess that’s how we germans are... Thanks for your comment. 👍 Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian, I used to follow the LR fill recommendations at first oil change, but later on, I figured it is easier and quicker to fill to a draining hole on all diffs, making sure the new updated breather cap with GORE-TEX membrane is installed on the front diff. I think the intervals are more important than amount. I change diffs oils every 25-30 000 miles. I am approaching 300 000 miles on my LR3 and all is still good.
@@bobbiegremza3853 300t miles, now that’s a hike. Congratulations. Hope we reach this too. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian I hope you will.I have done my share of preventable maintainance on my own, but your methodical approach is always entertaining.Keep those videos coming and please remember to post a video, that you have promised , about actual measurements of the rear sliding platform.
Another great video. with all these one off, specialised tools you are making, it won't be long before you have opened your own Dealership!! Christian getting all the backache, Vera looking pretty passing spanners.
😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
Great video as usual
however I have to make a couple of remarks:
The most likely cause of the seal leakage is as you pointed out was the positive pressure in the difference housing, most likely due to a blocked breather,
this type of seal relies on being able pump the escaping oil back, it also pumps an amount of air too, a positive pressure in the diff when you pulled the drain plug out would stop the seal from functioning
I must pull you up for putting grease into the dynamic pumping features of the seal face, but worst of all using the fingers of your dirty gloves introducing dirt into the area with the grease ☹
oil seals are already coated with a wax lubricant which is visible under UV light no further grease is required as it carbonises in the pumping features of the seal and make it less effective or leak.
👍👍👍
yep, every one of these with that oil seepage that i've seen has been a blocked breather
4:47 "Okay I'm aging" Perfect delivery 🤣
I remember replacing this seal on my 2005 WK Grand Cherokee CRD with the Dana 44 Axle... I marked the nut for before and after and it seemed to work perfectly with no whine or noise.
Regarding your air suspension, is there not an override on the switches to disable the auto adjust, its something my 04 Cayenne has and thought the LR system seems to be the same.
Great video!
I love your videos, and I don't even have an LR3! Might have to get a Lathe though.
Your work is full of patience and the result is just spot on. Have you already come across Drive Shaft Joint going funny. Have you ever changed one?
No, only the center bearing broke and we had to replace the entire propshaft. 👍 🙋♀️ Vera
@@Vera_and_Christian Thanks Vera. Will see tomorrow what I can do with it! Keep up!
Guten mogen guys.........😂 Fabian is so lucky 🍀 that you've the knowledge and understanding how land rovers work 😆 Going too any main dealer will have your pants pulled down 🙄 Love Vera 😘 Take care enjoy your week looking forward to seeing the next fantastic video. Cheers Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Could you please move to England and open a shop near me. I don’t care what you charge because I know it’ll be done correctly.
Definitely doable, if you have an inspection pit and machining skills.
good stuff! How did you know the seal needed replacing? Was it leaking?
👍 It was badly leaking. You could see it in the beginning. The problem is that this Disco is not ours, so we unfortunatly cannot prepare videos in depth like we can with our car sitting in the driveway all the time.🙋♀️ Vera
Great job and great channel. I have repaired my 2 d3's also a lot. I have gave my money on dealership diagnostics 2 times, and realized that they only take money and doesent give you s*it 😁. Since then i have done all my repairs myself. First d3 had a s*itty wire plug @ hpfp(lower solenoid), and dealership told that pump has weared out(hpfp + manhours ~2k€). Reality was 5hours work(also hpfp belt got changed during). Had some bad wires and compressor problems. Compressor problems was caused by moisture granules. They were old and not granules anymore, emitted powder/dust to air system and that caused valves failing. Ofcourse noone offers that repair, only new compressor. I bought somekind drying bag(filled with moisture granules)and replaced granules in compressor dryier. Cleaned valves, and no problems since. Keep up the good work 👍💪
That is great, I am going to remember how you fixed your problem once we run into it. Great job. We strongly believe that it's difficult driving an older Land Rover, or any other maker of Luxury SUV, when you are not able to fix it yourself. 👍🙋♀️ Vera
You sound like Herr Flick, brilliant.
Lot of pressure in that diff, possibly the cause of the leak. job well done.
😬 I agree. Still need to fix this... Christian
Christian & Vera great video, thank you for all the knowledge you are putting out there, you could have 3D printed that tool, it as going to take longer to print than to machined
😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
Hej Guys. I just love watching your vids. Keep up the good work.
I would like to point out a couple of issues with your work on this diff. When you mount the new seal it is advisable NOT to oil/ grease the outside seating edge of the seal as this could be pushed out by over pressure in the diff housing. Use instead some methylated spirits. Also, when you measure the depth of the nut, it is better to measure the depth of the pinion shaft instead because the nut depth is always the same as it is against the bottom of the flange.
This is great! I hope you will make some of your tools available to rent.
I think we all need to contact our local landrover dealers to see if they have a 'Vera' or else every job will take longer and be more expensive?
😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
Another great informative video, good works guys, 👍
Fabian is very fortunate to have you as a friend although I am beginning to wonder when you might tire of fixing his car. Can anything else possibly be wrong with it!!?
Simon
Yeah, I am really ready to be done with that car and move on to other projects. 😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
Interesting video as per usual, very similar to replacing diff seals on Bmw rear diffs.
Fantastic. You're a genius :-)
Hi thanks again for another excellent video what a team you both make. You have given me the confidence to tackle jobs myself.on my Range Rover Sport L320 2013 .All the best and I look forward to your next video.Steven
👍🙏 That is so great to hear. 🙋♀️ Vera
Blocked Diff breather is the cause of your leak, diff pressure that great would easily breach the seal. You MUST clean the breather out ! or it will pressurize and leak again.
Pssst 🤫. Fabian is reading this too 😬Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian 👀
The front diff breather was modified and was a service action that no dealer bothered about. I still see 2005 D3’s in 2021 that has the original breather still installed.
I actually think ours has that too. 🤔🙋♀️ Vera
I need to check my front diff breather too as I am getting a front diff leak on my D3. Great video as usual guy. Omy god, oh my god 🙂
It was blocked on mine too. We also upgraded it. So yes, better do that. 👍🙋♀️Vera
@@Vera_and_Christian what is the upgrade?
@@Vera_and_Christian all good I found the LR TSB for it, interestingly all my D3 has is a piece of open tube, no cap at all so goodness knows what muck is in it.
@@PeterOZ61 Good, because for ours and Fabians, Christian build a beefy breether cap. 🙋♀️Vera
@@Vera_and_Christian eggsellant. I need to look at mine on the weekend when I have some time.
Hi, as always awesome content , hope it was ok , but shared this one as well on some of the Land Rover forums ( landyzone and discovery 3 forums) as that will be very helpful, done the same ref the axle breather , I extended mine up near the scuttle panel so was well out the way as see it’s tucked down by the expansion tank , then fitted the new style breather , wonder because that breather was blocked if it caused that pinion seal to leak ?? , thanks so much to u and Vera for taking the time to share such informative videos ,ps, reminds me I’ve got to work out how to fit my front soft nudge bar , bumper has to come off and some plates I think are fitted onto the front impact bar
That is always appreciated. And yes we think it did leak because of a blocked breather. Still wondering if that happened because of all the offroading and wading this Discovery has done in the past. 👍🙋♀️ Vera
You guys should make Defender Puma service videos...
Who are these people ? 😀 amazing !
Great job but make sure you ensure the axle breather isn’t blocked or it will blow the new seal 😳
👍🙋♀️ Vera
Hey Christian, what are your thoughts about lubricating your bolts with copper grease but still using the original torque setting from the manual that may base on a dry bolt? I came across this issue very recently and the change in the friction factor is significant.
Hello Alex, my method is to not use copper grease on any critical or none corroded bolt. Like Driveshaft, Aluminum housings, internals, wheel lugs, brakes, etc. I use plenty of antiseeze for rosty body mount bolts. The bolt is not harmed normally by the reduced friction coefficient but the thread or the mating comment is. It can strip the thread. If it is not accessible or a single bolt, I would use care and not go by the book. I crushed a wishbone bracket before, using specified torque and the wrench would not klick. I could feel the structure caving in... Clearly because it was somewhat hollow and me using copper paste. Christian
Wow. Very impressive work
Hi Christian, check Land Rover Technical Service Bulletin LTB00245, typically oil leaking from front diff are caused by blocked differential breather and the bulletin suggest to replace the breather cap with a new type (LR019450). :-)
👍👊🙋♀️ Vera
Wow, the dealer that serviced this vehicle didn't do this fix, which ultimately caused the front diff leak. That's another fail by dealership maintenance; from another LR Time video the oil pan sump plug was found to be in very poor condition.
And since the dealership quoted the replacement cost, did they give advice that it could be a blocked differential breather?
@@tempestv8 We have to look at the quote, next time we see Fabian, I'll ask him. 👍🙋♀️ Vera
Love these videos, i really enjoy watching talented people make thingsbor repair them. Can i please make one request ? Next video can you please say "GET TO THE CHOPPER!!!" 😂😂
I do enjoy 👍👍 well thought...
Wie immer Suuuper!!! Schöne Grüße aus Flensburg.
🙋♀️👍 Danke, Viele Grüße Vera
Wieder ein sehr interessantes Video, danke vielmals ! Habt ihr auch etwas mit der Beluftung gemacht ?
Wird noch gemacht👍🙋♀️ Vera
Did you clean the axle breather.
😬😬😬 Forgot about it. It got really late and it was cold and Vera was complaining and the dog was tired. These are my excuses.... I can name more.... Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian But pressurisation of the differential was probably the reason why oil was being forced by the seal, yes? So won't the same problem occur again unless you clean the breather? I am also intrigued why the diff was pressurised. Was it warm or even hot when you started the job? Bear in mind that you may also have slightly over-filled the diff with oil as the diff was angled when you drained it: even though the oil seal was holding some back, I think some may have been retained in the 'sump'.
Sorry, I don't know how the breather is configured: does it actually vent remotely so that, when wading, water doesn't enter? On old Unimogs, for example, the whole system, front and rear axles, vents through a cross-drilled vent bolt in the gearbox cover....(.. but this isn't a Unimog!). Is there a similar remote vent or vents?
Lovely video by the way: we were thinking together as I watched it.... Thanks!
Don't forget, the main dealer would also want to remove the body 😉
Lol, yes you are right 😂. Christian
Like your methodology. Which pneumatic impact tool you use ?
It's a Hazet, he did not get the cheap chinese tool this time. 😃🙋♀️ Vera
@@Vera_and_ChristianThanks Vera
If my Land Rover breaks I’m bringing it to you!
Hi,I really enjoy your videos.Can I ask...how tight should the rear diferential pinion nuts should be in newton meter?
Hi
Can you remember the part number for the seal, great videos
No. It was from a part store selection tool. Christian
He’s not Christian he’s the heisenberg of land rovers
😅👍🙏🙋♀️ Vera
The pinion shaft seal on my old '92 Toyota Forunner rear diff failed at 420K the front diff pinion Seal was still sealing fine when the 'Runner was sold at about 450K, why does a LandRover Disco need the seal replaced at 180K, and the Dealership would have replaced the whole assembly, who dreams this stuff up, sheesh!
Great work Christian, to save Fabian an "arm and leg'. No wonder LandRover has a "rip off" reputation...
It turns out that the problem is the vent tube. I learned from the vwiewers now, that there is actually a service bulletin from LR. Not all dealerships may replace the whole assembly... The service manual is from 2005 and maybe they updated it. I don´t know. Thanks for your comment. Christian
Great video, but if the differential was under pressure from a blocked breather, surely that's what forced the oil past the seal? Did you find why the breather was blocked?
We believe it is a manufacturing defect. Mine, on my Discovery 3, was also blocked, not obstructed by debris, and we replaced it with a new DIY breather tip. 👍🙋♀️
@@Vera_and_Christian thanks for the reply, chaos at the moment in Britain. There are huge parts supply problems due to a new distribution centre.
Brilliantly done!
Any chance you 2 could move to England , I need a special friend like you guys
If you can find a way to clone Vera you could make a fortune 😎😎
😅👍🙋♀️ Vera
I'm already thinking it might be worth driving overland to Vera's workshop from Australia
@@peterbullen3347 😅
@@peterbullen3347 , perfect idea, we just need the music convoy playing as 10 x discovery’s turn up on vera’s driveway , snigger 👍,
@@garystuart226 10? I think you under estimate the draw power of Vera's repair skills
Land Rover owners are DEFINITELY made into better mechanics. Great work and very entertaining. Of interest; what might Fabian have saved with that home job? 🤑 👍🏻😷🙏🏽🦘
Very interesting thank you ! Could you explain why you did this ? The diff was leaking oil ?
👍 Most likely because the air vent was blocked. 🙋♀️ Vera
@@Vera_and_Christian if the air vent was fixed, would the existing leak stop?
As always; great work! Very interesting. Any chance you may be tackling a rear diff rebuild? I can't find much info in the forums online. Did another diff oil change but found what look like bearing chips. :( Oddly no noise yet but I'm thinking of buying a used rear diff to open up & try a rebuild. Any tips/pointers from anyone would be appreciated! Thanks again!
Check the front diff rebuild from Outback Discovery. Christian
@@Vera_and_Christian Thanks for taking the time to reply! I have checked it out; good stuff. He hasn't tackled the rear diff either. 'Preload' scares me so I've got a lot to learn still. Thanks again.
Have you encountered differential breather problems? When I changed my front LR3 differential oil recently, the fill plug blew off and spewed oil. It was clearly under a lot of pressure. I understand that a bad breather can damage the diff over time. Any experience with differential breathers to share? Thanks!
Yes, we had to change the blocked breather on the front diff. It was the reason for the oil leak. Christian
Hi Chris you need to check the brether also it look like block
Thanks
Nice braker bar