I had never attempted this job before. I watched this video and paused it with each step. I successfully changed the water pump and timing belt on my son's 98 Legacy 2.2 with NO issues! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
Hey just a heads up, 3 years later and you're still helping people like myself navigate around the engine compartment and identify components and complete tasks that we would otherwise struggle to complete! Great video man! Especially the idea with clamping the belt down on the marks to help while I fumbled around getting the rest of it on. Please keep up the great work that you're doing!
Thaks for this great extremely clear vid!! Note: the crank sprocket guide that's removed at 8:00 is required only on manual transmission vehicles. I popped my covers off today, and lo, no crank sprocket guide! A bit of googling educated me so I thought I'd share. Thanks!
Just changed the timing belt and water pump on my 2007 Subaru Forester automatic trans using this video as a main guide. Also changed the the AC idler pulley as it was causing a horrible squeak. Two main differences for automatic transmissions: two additional hoses to disconnect while removing radiator, and to tighten crank pulley stick a screwdriver in the flywheel access on the passenger side of the engine. This will prevent the engine from turning while you torque. Thanks for the great video!
Excellent video--you probably saved me at least an hour of frustration! One note: for automatics, it's a huge pain to tighten the crank pulley bolt, as you can't lock up the engine with the transmission. After some exploring I found that you can insert two 3/8" socket extensions into the holes on the crank pulley and jam a crowbar, etc. between them to hold the engine as you torque down the bolt.
Dude! Subbed! Your instruction is clear and precise. You don't talk too much not too little. Your patient as you work AND you don't CUSS. Thanks a million.
Trevor Letkeman LoL, for realism? Nah, I appreciate the fact I can watch a video with kids around and not have to worry or in public without looking like a douche.
Excellent video, changed the belt on my 04 forester this morning only using the guide, took me about 3 hours going at a slow pace. To those asking about water pump, I purchased my belt from a Subaru dealer and the bloke advised that water pumps don’t need replacing on these, he said he never sees any fail. And he was right might felt brand new so I kept the original in. To those suggesting the radiator does not need to be removed, I got away with just removing the fans, maybe the OP just removed the road to get camera angles.
I have an 04 Forrester too at 118k miles, how many miles did you swap it out at? I’m thinking of driving down to NY from Boston next week, will it be fine or should I not risk it? Thanks in advance
Had my laptop sitting on top of the engine playing the video. Did the cambelt on a 2001 Impreza. worked really well. Best tip was putting that bottom idler back on last. Cheers man.
I did it bro. Thanks to your video. Had an automatic. Used a small Allen wrench in a vice grips on the engine pulley and had friend torque it back on...quite a bit of blood but it clicked. Wish there was a better way on autos. Everyone thought I was crazy. Only needed a new steering belt lol
Many thanks for a very helpful video. By the way, just in case anyone wants to re-check the timing against the marks on the belt they will all line up again every 24 revolutions of the engine.
@Frank. T No - the belt is 223 teeth long if I remember right and the crankshaft toothed pulley is 24 teeth so after 1 revolution of the crank the markers are only 24/223 part of their way round one lap of the timing system. The mark gets back to the crank pulley after 223/24 or 9.29166 revolutions of the crank and actually engages 7 teeth away from where it started so the mark on the belt does not line up with the mark on the pulley. Actually, what I wrote previously was wrong - the marks don't line up again until the belt has completed 24 laps of the timing system which takes 223 revolutions of the engine! Obviously the guys at Subaru did a proper job of designing this as a hunting mesh to keep the wear even.
Thanks for this great video Devin. It gave me the confidence to change the timing belt on my 2006 Forester, including water pump and pulleys. Everything went perfectly and that tip with the clamp to keep the belt in place really helped. Awesome!
Dude, thanks like times a million for posting this! Just got mine done and she's running smooth. A quick tip, for tightening down that crank pulley bold. I put 2 short 3/8 extensions in the crank pulley holes and then stuck a breaker bar on them, and pulled the opposite ways until I was able to get the proper torque. Also, mine, an 2009 has a stupid stretch fit belt on the inner crank pulley part which was kind of a pain to put on, but I did it with flat screwdrivers. The crank pulley itself was pretty tough to get off, but I kept hititing it on the sides with a rubber mallet and wiggling back and forth until it came off. Anyway, just thought I'd share some tips in case it helps anyone else. Again, THANK YOU!!
One comment I saw in another video that might be helpful, when you put the belt on, put it on so you can read the writing as you are looking at it from the front of the engine to make sure the lines line up from the left side to the right side cams. Otherwise, great video, I was thinking of doing one, but I really couldn't add any more.
Thanks for the video! I absolutely could not get the belt on using the sequence in another video, putting the water pump cog and lower pulley on last. It was impossible, only two belt lines would match. Yet somehow, it went on easily using your method. Crazy.
This video is clear brother! Great video liked the music too lol. It kept the pace of watching a delight. Please next time show us the water pump change aswell since it's right there. Great vid
Just want to say thanks. Your video is the best out there. All your tips and knowledge helped us do my sons Forester in about three hours and saved a boat load. Keep up the good work!
Great video, thanks! Just wanted to add when breaking the crank pulley by turning the car over make sure your battery is fully charged!!! After a few failed attempts I realized I wasn’t at full charge and it doesn’t have enough to break it.
I would like to add to this great video the following: 1. The belt's fit is very very tight, it stretches very little if anything and it's ribbed. 2. Hence, when you get it on on all the cogs, it gets divided into runs witch can stretch only within the run 3. when you do the belt on the car, even if you remove fans, you do not have visibility of all the holes where install bolts go 4. all together you need to install 1 x tensioner, 1 x cog idler, 2 x smooth idlers, top and bottom ones. 5. when you are installing the last two, you have to stretch the belt (some strength is required) and fit the holding bolt into the hole you don't see - and that is not easy to do for some of them. 6. you have to start the bolts with your hand to make sure it's square fit, otherwise the steel bolts will make some mess with your aluminium engine. So the above were just observations, and now are a couple of statements: 1. the cog pulley next to water pump and the tensioner are absolutely worst to fit in, so do them first. Not like on this video, when the tensioner is fitted with the top idler already fitted - this might not work, as you have to stretch the belt and fit the bolt into the hole that you don't see. And the tensioner will have tendency to skew. MrSubaru fits the tensioner and the top idler first - that also might not work for you, as the cog pulley is also a dog to fit, being close to the water pump and not enough belt to stretch. 2. After you have fit the tensioner and the cog idler, install the top idler, as it's got nice long run of the belt to stretch, and then, the bottom idler, as it also has a nice long run to stretch. That will work.
I was searching for how to change a timing belt and watched your video. Thanks so much for making it. I thought it was good to hear you say "I just hit 1600 subscribers" so I looked to see your current count and it's 474k ! Nice work! Thanks again ! 😀👍
Ive watched this probably 10 times now just to make sure I've got everything and gonna do it right, just a couple more tools, and parts will be here Friday. I'm excited to knock this off my list! Only waited til I was 25k over 105k! lolol you can say I'm a procrastinator. Better late than never tho! Thanks for this video
I've watched 4 timing belt replacement videos and NOBODY mentioned the two hoses at the bottom of the radiator that connect to two lines sitting below the battery. These are transmission coolant lines according to the Haynes manual. You'll have to provision for plugging them. A local shop told me this is just transmission fluid that cools somewhat by running through the radiator. It is a separate circuit within the radiator that does NOT mix with the engine coolant. I have a 2006 Baja, non-turbo model.
Great video. Super helpful. I had the dealer replace the front control arms Etc for around 1k after they failed to spot the bushings were wearing at the 90k service which would have saved me $700 when the wheels started fibrillating at around 65MPH. Could have done that myself before it became a metal on metal situation requiring replacement. Going to do the rear bushings myself then the timing belt with new bearings Etc next.
Timing was something a little hard for me to grasp, but this video was a fantastic presentation on doing this and thanks to you, I was able to fix my car and learn something new.
Very nice explanation, Thanks. My little Subaru is making a rattling noise. Only does it when you rev the motor up to 2500-3000 RPMs. Mechanic said they thought it was the timing pulleys, tensioner or one of the other pulleys? Gonna try this myself. Last timing I did was for a 1976 Chevy Chevette. lol, that was a great little 4 banger hatchback. Wish me luck.
Very concise! Great how-to! Just curious, why do you torque the pulleys when they're under the load of the belt? Seems like you would get more accurate torque with the pulley unloaded, but I'm sure you're following the procedure in the service manual. Thanks!
Thanks Replacing the thermostat, waterpump and timing belt for the first time! Its going well First time ive done anything other than replacing an oil filter on a car 😂
Thank you for a thorough exposition also The problem is I am having current on two tower on the coil pack cylinder 1 and 2 no electrical current for cylinders 3 and 4 could the cause a ignition timing on the belt?
Great video. Thank you! It is not easy to do the video and do the work. Hats off to you for spending the time to do it. I have an '04 Outback that needs a repeat job. I had mine done at a mechanic 2 years ago, but I now have oil leaks, possibly from the crank seal. I also see leaks around the timing belt cover. Lessons learned. I will do it myself this time.
Getting gyp'ed by unskilled mechanics - they take your money and don't fix the problem, or worse - is the reason I became super-interested in learning how to do my own work! UA-cam was a huge game-changer with that. Now everybody can be a mechanical genius from what smart-guys freely share, here.
Excellent so easy follow because you made it so. Only thing I struggled to see the timing marks. Also I noticed the marks on the belt didn't line up again once you turned the engine but I think you said that was what would happen. Really easy to follow I'll do mine soon thank you!
Excellent instructional video! My timing belt snapped as i was warming up my impreza. Can I turn the cam shaft sprockets and crank shaft manually? Is this the proper way to align the markings to the engine block?
Good vid thx Im wondering about replacing the coolant Do I just fill the rad, start the car with the rad cap off and let it warm up and keep adding coolant?
thanks for the info. Mine wont start now so its coming back apart next weekend. Probably timing issue. Timing jumped. Got it running. Thanks for the video.
This video is super helpful! One note: My engine does not have a guide piece over the crank sprocket (8:00). Does this Subaru have a manual transmission? I heard that automatics don't have that piece, but I don't know what the difference would be that requires a guide on the manuals.
Turning motor over to crack crank pulley bolt didnt work. The engine just raised up when it was cranking. Extention on power bar worked easy as. Totally recommend this method. So grateful for this video though. Definately following your steps as main framework.
How do you turn the motor over without starting the engine? Do you turn the ignition key and listen for the crank and back the key off before the engine starts?
@@SW-gl9jy take your spark plug leads off. No spark... no start and be really careful with the radiator. It is very delicate. I damaged mine during that crank method and didnt get the bolt cracked. Not blaiming anyone... just sharing. I had to lock the AT and use a good power bar and long extn to crack the bolt. It worked a charm. If yours is a manual just get someone to put the foot brack on and put it in first gear.
I have recently had a problem that might be the the timing belt tensioner. This is a 2001 subi legacy wagon / outback. Followed you video for timing belt change. Everything is dead on for timing marks. I don't know if there is a way to know if tensioner is bad or not. I gave heard that thee are problems with these that, upon failure, you get a loud metal on metal knocking. All else looks great so I left the belt in place for now. Can I test the tensoiner or just replace with new? only $40- or so ...no biggie. Should I go ahead and replace the belt even if it loo ks perfect or just realign? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help in advance. Your video is great...no nonsense just clear explanation. Good stuff will definitely recommend you. My name is Jay.
Hey Was Just Wondering, Commenting On Wzorek Response, TY For Your Detailed Vids. We Ordered The New Tensioner, But What's The Deal With The Pin, Ugh, Once The Marks Are Lined Up, You Pull The Pin & Discard It? How Can You Tell The Tensioner Is No Good? Can You Bleed A "Used" One? Sorry To Be Dumb. We Miss Our Subie.
Quick question while im doing my subaru.if one of the cams jump a little when taking the belt off, how do i align it back.?can i jist turn in on its own?
Hello very good video. Question I have coolant leak behind thermostat housing it’s that could be the water pump leaking ? The metal behind the thermostat is good no leaking. What could be it ??
Nope. Ive done several and only thing you have to do with the tensioner is pull the pin after you've triple checked everything lines up then pull pin and confirm lines are still perfect
Thanks for making this vid! my brother and i made a mistake, the crankshaft and the passenger side shaft are tdc but not the driver side shaft.. It's about less a quarter turn, how can we fix it?
Use AISIN parts and all oem, right? Did you replace the old tensioner with new? New belt guides? Always a metal gasket for the water-pump. I'm going to do this job or pay for it, I've got 110k miles. Just a nit-picky point, if you use 50/50 coolant it's said by those that say it to use distilled water for the dilution. After watching your video, and a few others, I'm feeling more confident to do this job. I just have to absorb the steps repeatedly, then the road looks more traveled for me. Thanks
I noticed he replaced some pulleys? sprockets?Was that normal normal for maintenance change or did something break. here?Can you folllow this procedure if your belt. just broke?
Great video and explanations. Was just curious about the crankshaft sprocket, does this need to be changed along with all the other pulleys ? Also was wondering if you changed out the water pump and thermostat? Thought that was highly recommended when doing a timing belt . Regards
How important is it to replace the other pulleys and tensioner when doing the timing belt? I notice the full kits are quite expensive! Additionally, would you recommend doing the waterpump at the same time? Thanks!
I made the mistake of letting a local shop replaced my timing Belt and all they did was replace the timing belt. I had the factory pullies still in my car. At 205000 miles the pulley with the cog teeth on it self destructed and the car jumped time time and fired. I was a 100% sure that I had trashed the engine. After watching this video and putting in a new kit it turned over perfectly 1st time with no noise from the engine and no damage done. Spend the extra money replaced the pulleys when you replace the belt. 80000 miles from now I'm going to go ahead and replace it all one more time.
When getting to the main crank sprocket i realized that there was no cover/guide over it, although there are holes to indicate that there can be/should be/was one there, is it super important? my car has been running fine for several years before, and I assume it's been that way for a long time. Should I get a replacement?
I have followed your procedure. I align the camshaft marks initially and clamp the belt so it does not slip. I install the bottom flanged pulley and the splined pulley. In installing the pulleys it seems a camshaft rotates slightly. When you rotate the motor the marks doe not perfectly align. If the marks align initially does a slight cam rotation matter?
Hello, I am changing the timing belt on a subaru Forester 2.0L 2006 mod. Checked the markings before I dismantled this, but didn't think the markings were 100 percent on the markings? it could be that the strap is old and a little stretched. ? Mr. Odd Jorstad.. (Norway)
Is it hard to take the driver side crank cam pully off to replace the seal behind the pully? I know how to get the timing belt off and on but what about that seal it is leaking real bad and the oil temp light start blinking on and off.
So if you want to check the water pump just turn it and if it turns freely with little to no resistance then it's good but if you want to remove it there are about 5 bolts holding it in and you would need to remove a hose that is attached to it. Also if you take it off you might need a mallet to get it off
@@hunternadon6711 - The water pump may well be, and probably is, just fine but I think the point is, if the car has enough miles on it that the timing belts need attention, as long as you're in there, go ahead and replace it. It's simple at that point and relatively cheap insurance. I've heard of a number of folks who didn't touch the water pump with the engine was down for timing belts only to have to tear it down again 10k miles later when the pump did go out. It's a personal decision of course but as I said, it's cheap insurance.
I learnt the hard way getting mechanic to do belt but he never mentioned pump. 6 months later it all comes apart again after the pump starts to leak, do the pump!
Hi there bro were can I get that orange tool that sets the gap on timing belt guide on crank shaft sprocket my timing belt kit from company 23 didn't come with one
Great Video! I will also need to replace the backside of the cover as well due to an engine bay fire. If I take off the cam pulleys to get at the back plastic can I assume that they just go back on lined up no problem or is there risk of the internals moving once the pulley is off?
Thanks so much for the video you prepared. Really helped me to successfully complete replacing my timing belt, pulleys, and water pump. Saved me a ton of dough!
I have to say SOHC instructions you are giving is spot on it's the same for the 04 Forester 2.5 H is the same way to replace the timing belt I have change timing belts on all the the cars I have owned and the quickest one is the Suzuki sidekick that one only took me 30 min, I should have kept that motor solid by far, could have made a dune buggy for the Grand-kids to horse around on , keep up the good work!
Hey quick question, when you line up the Crank Pulley and the cam sprockets, do you need to have the belt on? I don't have it on yet and when I turn the Crank Pulley to line it up the cam sprockets, they don't move on their own.
Very helpful and thorough. Question: 2.5s Are there different power steering with different pulleys? Are all pulleys changeable or there's some that you have to change the entire pump?
This is awesome thanks for posting, I need to do the cams seals as well on my 99 legacy. Was going to do it all at once. So basically I would just need to remove the cam sprockets and remove the seals. Anything special I need to know about removing cam sprockets? Thanks!
Maybe he removed it to get better video? Anyway, service manual recommends removing fans and putting cardboard and blanket over radiator. Not sure if dealer mechanics actually do this?
I had never attempted this job before. I watched this video and paused it with each step. I successfully changed the water pump and timing belt on my son's 98 Legacy 2.2 with NO issues! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!
Hey just a heads up, 3 years later and you're still helping people like myself navigate around the engine compartment and identify components and complete tasks that we would otherwise struggle to complete! Great video man! Especially the idea with clamping the belt down on the marks to help while I fumbled around getting the rest of it on. Please keep up the great work that you're doing!
Thaks for this great extremely clear vid!! Note: the crank sprocket guide that's removed at 8:00 is required only on manual transmission vehicles. I popped my covers off today, and lo, no crank sprocket guide! A bit of googling educated me so I thought I'd share. Thanks!
Thank you for sharing this information...it must of been confusing when you realized the crank sprocket guide rail wasn't there.
Just changed the timing belt and water pump on my 2007 Subaru Forester automatic trans using this video as a main guide. Also changed the the AC idler pulley as it was causing a horrible squeak. Two main differences for automatic transmissions: two additional hoses to disconnect while removing radiator, and to tighten crank pulley stick a screwdriver in the flywheel access on the passenger side of the engine. This will prevent the engine from turning while you torque. Thanks for the great video!
Excellent video--you probably saved me at least an hour of frustration! One note: for automatics, it's a huge pain to tighten the crank pulley bolt, as you can't lock up the engine with the transmission. After some exploring I found that you can insert two 3/8" socket extensions into the holes on the crank pulley and jam a crowbar, etc. between them to hold the engine as you torque down the bolt.
Dude! Subbed!
Your instruction is clear and precise. You don't talk too much not too little. Your patient as you work AND you don't CUSS. Thanks a million.
iamdjsluggo plus no annoying hardcore EDM music. Lol
iamdjsluggo
iamdjsluggo he was (is never) angry. Mad?
He saved me, my 1000 plus!
Kinda wish he would cuss a bit.... :)
Trevor Letkeman LoL, for realism?
Nah, I appreciate the fact I can watch a video with kids around and not have to worry or in public without looking like a douche.
A good, honest, down-to-earth mechanic who doesn't drop f-bombs. Thanks!!!
Fuckity fuckin fuck
@@caleb9246 dude c'mon
@@nogamingcontent4369 dude holy fuckin fuck
who cares
I don’t fuckin trust a tech that doesn’t cuss
Excellent video, changed the belt on my 04 forester this morning only using the guide, took me about 3 hours going at a slow pace.
To those asking about water pump, I purchased my belt from a Subaru dealer and the bloke advised that water pumps don’t need replacing on these, he said he never sees any fail. And he was right might felt brand new so I kept the original in.
To those suggesting the radiator does not need to be removed, I got away with just removing the fans, maybe the OP just removed the road to get camera angles.
I have an 04 Forrester too at 118k miles, how many miles did you swap it out at? I’m thinking of driving down to NY from Boston next week, will it be fine or should I not risk it? Thanks in advance
best subaru videos i've found. You've saved me thousands of dollars and millions of minutes. thanks a lot man
Just got my estimate today. 1800$ + tax. 9/2024. I will be under my hood this weekend. This is definitely my most important tool. Thank you.
Had my laptop sitting on top of the engine playing the video. Did the cambelt on a 2001 Impreza. worked really well. Best tip was putting that bottom idler back on last. Cheers man.
I did it bro. Thanks to your video. Had an automatic. Used a small Allen wrench in a vice grips on the engine pulley and had friend torque it back on...quite a bit of blood but it clicked. Wish there was a better way on autos. Everyone thought I was crazy. Only needed a new steering belt lol
cool stuff I'm a panelbeater tradesman for 30 years you did a great job in this presentation now i can go do my timing belt on my subaru .thanks dude
Welcome!
I appreciate how clear your instructions were. No cursing. Helpful detail. Thank you so much
Many thanks for a very helpful video. By the way, just in case anyone wants to re-check the timing against the marks on the belt they will all line up again every 24 revolutions of the engine.
Colin Mill I was courious about a 1000 r.p.m.
Slow motion cameras. Are thinking 💭 and?
A strobe light! Is enrollment needed.
Ah great I was wondering thanks.
@Frank. T No - the belt is 223 teeth long if I remember right and the crankshaft toothed pulley is 24 teeth so after 1 revolution of the crank the markers are only 24/223 part of their way round one lap of the timing system. The mark gets back to the crank pulley after 223/24 or 9.29166 revolutions of the crank and actually engages 7 teeth away from where it started so the mark on the belt does not line up with the mark on the pulley. Actually, what I wrote previously was wrong - the marks don't line up again until the belt has completed 24 laps of the timing system which takes 223 revolutions of the engine! Obviously the guys at Subaru did a proper job of designing this as a hunting mesh to keep the wear even.
It pissed off my dealership I bought it from! Fun, Scary. I won !
Thank You 😊
Thanks for this great video Devin. It gave me the confidence to change the timing belt on my 2006 Forester, including water pump and pulleys. Everything went perfectly and that tip with the clamp to keep the belt in place really helped. Awesome!
Dude, you are the most concise and thorough mechanic ever. This is awesome, and definitely going to save me $. Thanks for all you do!
This video helped me get through a timing belt and water pump job on my daughter's 2007 Subaru Legacy 2.5i. I can't thank you enough!
Finally a bloke who just explains in normal English thanks
Dude, thanks like times a million for posting this! Just got mine done and she's running smooth. A quick tip, for tightening down that crank pulley bold. I put 2 short 3/8 extensions in the crank pulley holes and then stuck a breaker bar on them, and pulled the opposite ways until I was able to get the proper torque. Also, mine, an 2009 has a stupid stretch fit belt on the inner crank pulley part which was kind of a pain to put on, but I did it with flat screwdrivers. The crank pulley itself was pretty tough to get off, but I kept hititing it on the sides with a rubber mallet and wiggling back and forth until it came off. Anyway, just thought I'd share some tips in case it helps anyone else. Again, THANK YOU!!
Excellent tips. Glad it worked out for you man!
sure helped me out
Good! Glad it did :)
This helps me a bunch!
wouldnt jamming the flywheel with a flathead screw driver be easier and do the same thing?
Saved $600. Knowledge is power, thank you so much!
One comment I saw in another video that might be helpful, when you put the belt on, put it on so you can read the writing as you are looking at it from the front of the engine to make sure the lines line up from the left side to the right side cams. Otherwise, great video, I was thinking of doing one, but I really couldn't add any more.
Thanks for the video! I absolutely could not get the belt on using the sequence in another video, putting the water pump cog and lower pulley on last. It was impossible, only two belt lines would match. Yet somehow, it went on easily using your method. Crazy.
Awesome video dude! Everything was spot on! Clamping the timing belt in place was a genius idea saved me tons of hassle
This video is clear brother! Great video liked the music too lol. It kept the pace of watching a delight. Please next time show us the water pump change aswell since it's right there. Great vid
Just want to say thanks. Your video is the best out there. All your tips and knowledge helped us do my sons Forester in about three hours and saved a boat load. Keep up the good work!
Great video, thanks! Just wanted to add when breaking the crank pulley by turning the car over make sure your battery is fully charged!!! After a few failed attempts I realized I wasn’t at full charge and it doesn’t have enough to break it.
Best timing belt video I've seen. Gave me the confidence to do it myself.
I would like to add to this great video the following:
1. The belt's fit is very very tight, it stretches very little if anything and it's ribbed.
2. Hence, when you get it on on all the cogs, it gets divided into runs witch can stretch only within the run
3. when you do the belt on the car, even if you remove fans, you do not have visibility of all the holes where install bolts go
4. all together you need to install 1 x tensioner, 1 x cog idler, 2 x smooth idlers, top and bottom ones.
5. when you are installing the last two, you have to stretch the belt (some strength is required) and fit the holding bolt into the hole you don't see - and that is not easy to do for some of them.
6. you have to start the bolts with your hand to make sure it's square fit, otherwise the steel bolts will make some mess with your aluminium engine.
So the above were just observations, and now are a couple of statements:
1. the cog pulley next to water pump and the tensioner are absolutely worst to fit in, so do them first.
Not like on this video, when the tensioner is fitted with the top idler already fitted - this might not work, as you have to stretch the belt and fit the bolt into the hole that you don't see.
And the tensioner will have tendency to skew.
MrSubaru fits the tensioner and the top idler first - that also might not work for you, as the cog pulley is also a dog to fit, being close to the water pump and not enough belt to stretch.
2. After you have fit the tensioner and the cog idler, install the top idler, as it's got nice long run of the belt to stretch, and then, the bottom idler, as it also has a nice long run to stretch.
That will work.
I was searching for how to change a timing belt and watched your video. Thanks so much for making it.
I thought it was good to hear you say "I just hit 1600 subscribers" so I looked to see your current count and it's 474k ! Nice work! Thanks again ! 😀👍
Ive watched this probably 10 times now just to make sure I've got everything and gonna do it right, just a couple more tools, and parts will be here Friday. I'm excited to knock this off my list! Only waited til I was 25k over 105k! lolol you can say I'm a procrastinator. Better late than never tho!
Thanks for this video
Gads, turn off the background noise. this is a classroom!
thanks man, doing this myself with the water pump and I'm not much of a mechanic so I appreciate the detailed instructions
Welcome!
I've watched 4 timing belt replacement videos and NOBODY mentioned the two hoses at the bottom of the radiator that connect to two lines sitting below the battery. These are transmission coolant lines according to the Haynes manual. You'll have to provision for plugging them. A local shop told me this is just transmission fluid that cools somewhat by running through the radiator. It is a separate circuit within the radiator that does NOT mix with the engine coolant. I have a 2006 Baja, non-turbo model.
Great video man! Seriously you saved me about 800 dollars over my local mechanic shop. Thanks a ton!
Great video. Super helpful. I had the dealer replace the front control arms Etc for around 1k after they failed to spot the bushings were wearing at the 90k service which would have saved me $700 when the wheels started fibrillating at around 65MPH. Could have done that myself before it became a metal on metal situation requiring replacement. Going to do the rear bushings myself then the timing belt with new bearings Etc next.
Timing was something a little hard for me to grasp, but this video was a fantastic presentation on doing this and thanks to you, I was able to fix my car and learn something new.
Very nice explanation, Thanks. My little Subaru is making a rattling noise. Only does it when you rev the motor up to 2500-3000 RPMs. Mechanic said they thought it was the timing pulleys, tensioner or one of the other pulleys? Gonna try this myself. Last timing I did was for a 1976 Chevy Chevette. lol, that was a great little 4 banger hatchback. Wish me luck.
Very concise! Great how-to! Just curious, why do you torque the pulleys when they're under the load of the belt? Seems like you would get more accurate torque with the pulley unloaded, but I'm sure you're following the procedure in the service manual. Thanks!
Thanks
Replacing the thermostat, waterpump and timing belt for the first time! Its going well
First time ive done anything other than replacing an oil filter on a car 😂
This one isn’t TOO bad (beware old Honda’s!) but this is definitely a step up!
You provided a very detail of how to dis assemble & install it. Your video is one of the best instruction. Thanks.
Hey..Great video, thanks for the assist. I do have a question though... is it a good idea to change the water pump while all belts are off?
Thank you for a thorough exposition also The problem is I am having current on two tower on the coil pack cylinder 1 and 2 no electrical current for cylinders 3 and 4 could the cause a ignition timing on the belt?
Thanks!
Your video saved me ~$750! Thank you for posting this!
Great video. Thank you! It is not easy to do the video and do the work. Hats off to you for spending the time to do it. I have an '04 Outback that needs a repeat job. I had mine done at a mechanic 2 years ago, but I now have oil leaks, possibly from the crank seal. I also see leaks around the timing belt cover. Lessons learned. I will do it myself this time.
You're welcome!
Getting gyp'ed by unskilled mechanics - they take your money and don't fix the problem, or worse - is the reason I became super-interested in learning how to do my own work! UA-cam was a huge game-changer with that. Now everybody can be a mechanical genius from what smart-guys freely share, here.
Thanks for this! Is there a certain kit I would need?
Thank you for mentioning all the small, but very important details. Your guidance video is the best!
Excellent so easy follow because you made it so. Only thing I struggled to see the timing marks. Also I noticed the marks on the belt didn't line up again once you turned the engine but I think you said that was what would happen. Really easy to follow I'll do mine soon thank you!
I've read in an early comment that the marks, line up every 24 revolutions.
Great video. Tightening the crank pulley. How do you do it if the car is an automatic.
Excellent instructional video! My timing belt snapped as i was warming up my impreza. Can I turn the cam shaft sprockets and crank shaft manually? Is this the proper way to align the markings to the engine block?
Good vid thx Im wondering about replacing the coolant Do I just fill the rad, start the car with the rad cap off and let it warm up and keep adding coolant?
thanks for the info. Mine wont start now so its coming back apart next weekend. Probably timing issue.
Timing jumped. Got it running. Thanks for the video.
This video is super helpful! One note: My engine does not have a guide piece over the crank sprocket (8:00). Does this Subaru have a manual transmission? I heard that automatics don't have that piece, but I don't know what the difference would be that requires a guide on the manuals.
All Subaru motors that are belt driven need that guide my man!
Love how you first point out everything to unbolt and then you show doing it! 👍👍👍
Nice job! Curious as to why you didn't go ahead and replace the water pump too? Also, can you not use a impact wrench to remove the crank pulley?
excellent! that's very clear and well edited video. thank for sharing, really helpful
Terrific! Very well done. My text converter on this phone is a joke but you showed clearly what was happening. Thanks
Your video was more useful than the other video's on UA-cam. Thank you.
Turning motor over to crack crank pulley bolt didnt work. The engine just raised up when it was cranking. Extention on power bar worked easy as. Totally recommend this method. So grateful for this video though. Definately following your steps as main framework.
How do you turn the motor over without starting the engine? Do you turn the ignition key and listen for the crank and back the key off before the engine starts?
@@SW-gl9jy take your spark plug leads off. No spark... no start and be really careful with the radiator. It is very delicate. I damaged mine during that crank method and didnt get the bolt cracked. Not blaiming anyone... just sharing. I had to lock the AT and use a good power bar and long extn to crack the bolt. It worked a charm. If yours is a manual just get someone to put the foot brack on and put it in first gear.
Thank you so much for your video. Thank you for all the detail. Thank you for going over everything and making it so clear. I really appreciate it.
I have recently had a problem that might be the the timing belt tensioner. This is a 2001 subi legacy wagon / outback. Followed you video for timing belt change. Everything is dead on for timing marks. I don't know if there is a way to know if tensioner is bad or not. I gave heard that thee are problems with these that, upon failure, you get a loud metal on metal knocking. All else looks great so I left the belt in place for now. Can I test the tensoiner or just replace with new? only $40- or so ...no biggie. Should I go ahead and replace the belt even if it loo ks perfect or just realign? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks for your help in advance. Your video is great...no nonsense just clear explanation. Good stuff will definitely recommend you.
My name is Jay.
Hey Was Just Wondering, Commenting On Wzorek Response, TY For Your Detailed Vids. We Ordered The New Tensioner, But What's The Deal With The Pin, Ugh, Once The Marks Are Lined Up, You Pull The Pin & Discard It? How Can You Tell The Tensioner Is No Good? Can You Bleed A "Used" One? Sorry To Be Dumb. We Miss Our Subie.
Thank you so much man, I'm gonna attempt to do my timing belt now. Wish me luck guys
Well done Devin, nice and simple, clear, makes me wonder why do i think this is such a task to do
Quick question while im doing my subaru.if one of the cams jump a little when taking the belt off, how do i align it back.?can i jist turn in on its own?
I have the same issue, wish I knew how to fix this.
Hello very good video. Question I have coolant leak behind thermostat housing it’s that could be the water pump leaking ? The metal behind the thermostat is good no leaking. What could be it ??
Did you need to bleed the tensioner? (If you used a gates kit)
Nope. Ive done several and only thing you have to do with the tensioner is pull the pin after you've triple checked everything lines up then pull pin and confirm lines are still perfect
Thanks for the clear instructions, can you tell me how you got the crank bolt back out before the pulley went back on?
Smack a breaker bar with a hammer, just be sure the crank doesn't turn much because you don't want the pistons to hit any valves.
Or if it's a manual just put it in 5th gear and set the parking brake.
Good video my dude!!
Thanks for making this vid! my brother and i made a mistake, the crankshaft and the passenger side shaft are tdc but not the driver side shaft.. It's about less a quarter turn, how can we fix it?
is there a way to replace the belt without draining and refilling coolant?
Use AISIN parts and all oem, right? Did you replace the old tensioner with new? New belt guides? Always a metal gasket for the water-pump. I'm going to do this job or pay for it, I've got 110k miles. Just a nit-picky point, if you use 50/50 coolant it's said by those that say it to use distilled water for the dilution. After watching your video, and a few others, I'm feeling more confident to do this job. I just have to absorb the steps repeatedly, then the road looks more traveled for me. Thanks
I noticed he replaced some pulleys? sprockets?Was that normal normal for maintenance change or did something break. here?Can you folllow this procedure if your belt. just broke?
Great video!
Also, cool to see you thanking your 1600 subscribers at the end.
By far the best video on the topic!! Thanks for the help!!
Quick q, the passenger side cam mark lines up with the motor where the heads and the block meet, correct?
Mitsubishi timing belt on a Subaru 😂 great video man. I just got a 07 Foster 2.5x. just doing some research. Keep up the content. Subscribed 👍🏽
Misuboshi is actually what it says, they are a Japanese belt manufacturer.
Great video and explanations. Was just curious about the crankshaft sprocket, does this need to be changed along with all the other pulleys ?
Also was wondering if you changed out the water pump and thermostat? Thought that was highly recommended when doing a timing belt .
Regards
Please remember align top dead center with the belt on, if you turn the cams seperate from the crank you can bend a valve.
I need to know if the passenger side crankshaft is it loose or needs to be tight
How important is it to replace the other pulleys and tensioner when doing the timing belt? I notice the full kits are quite expensive! Additionally, would you recommend doing the waterpump at the same time? Thanks!
I was wondering the same thing.
@@seandknutson it's very important as these parts have limited life and will need replacement.I recommend Aisin kit
I made the mistake of letting a local shop replaced my timing Belt and all they did was replace the timing belt. I had the factory pullies still in my car. At 205000 miles the pulley with the cog teeth on it self destructed and the car jumped time time and fired. I was a 100% sure that I had trashed the engine. After watching this video and putting in a new kit it turned over perfectly 1st time with no noise from the engine and no damage done. Spend the extra money replaced the pulleys when you replace the belt. 80000 miles from now I'm going to go ahead and replace it all one more time.
I mean my rule of thumb for anything is. If you're taking it all apart. Replace everything you can.
When getting to the main crank sprocket i realized that there was no cover/guide over it, although there are holes to indicate that there can be/should be/was one there, is it super important? my car has been running fine for several years before, and I assume it's been that way for a long time. Should I get a replacement?
My '06 forester is also an automatic transmission, and i think this car is a manual, is that the difference?
I have followed your procedure. I align the camshaft marks initially and clamp the belt so it does not slip. I install the bottom flanged pulley and the splined pulley. In installing the pulleys it seems a camshaft rotates slightly. When you rotate the motor the marks doe not perfectly align. If the marks align initially does a slight cam rotation matter?
Wicked video man! Thanks so much, best one I've found on UA-cam
Hello, I am changing the timing belt on a subaru Forester 2.0L 2006 mod. Checked the markings before I dismantled this, but didn't think the markings were 100 percent on the markings? it could be that the strap is old and a little stretched. ? Mr. Odd Jorstad.. (Norway)
I'm about to do the belt on my Legacy soon and this was very helpful. Thanks!
Me too. How did it go?
Is it hard to take the driver side crank cam pully off to replace the seal behind the pully? I know how to get the timing belt off and on but what about that seal it is leaking real bad and the oil temp light start blinking on and off.
did u torque the tensioner and other pulley? the main crank pulley is 130lb?
Water pump?
I was wondering about that. Generally speaking, if the belt is ready for replacement, the water pump is cheap insurance at the same time.
So if you want to check the water pump just turn it and if it turns freely with little to no resistance then it's good but if you want to remove it there are about 5 bolts holding it in and you would need to remove a hose that is attached to it. Also if you take it off you might need a mallet to get it off
@@hunternadon6711 - The water pump may well be, and probably is, just fine but I think the point is, if the car has enough miles on it that the timing belts need attention, as long as you're in there, go ahead and replace it. It's simple at that point and relatively cheap insurance. I've heard of a number of folks who didn't touch the water pump with the engine was down for timing belts only to have to tear it down again 10k miles later when the pump did go out. It's a personal decision of course but as I said, it's cheap insurance.
@@Intrepid175a I found the water pump actually made most kits cheaper
I learnt the hard way getting mechanic to do belt but he never mentioned pump. 6 months later it all comes apart again after the pump starts to leak, do the pump!
Hi there bro were can I get that orange tool that sets the gap on timing belt guide on crank shaft sprocket my timing belt kit from company 23 didn't come with one
Great Video! I will also need to replace the backside of the cover as well due to an engine bay fire. If I take off the cam pulleys to get at the back plastic can I assume that they just go back on lined up no problem or is there risk of the internals moving once the pulley is off?
No you should be okay.
Thanks so much for the video you prepared. Really helped me to successfully complete replacing my timing belt, pulleys, and water pump. Saved me a ton of dough!
I have to say SOHC instructions you are giving is spot on it's the same for the 04 Forester 2.5 H is the same way to replace the timing belt I have change timing belts on all the the cars I have owned and the quickest one is the Suzuki sidekick that one only took me 30 min, I should have kept that motor solid by far, could have made a dune buggy for the Grand-kids to horse around on , keep up the good work!
Thank you so much for doing this video my son and I did the timing belt and a 2007 Subaru outback so appreciate what you’ve done with your video
Hey quick question, when you line up the Crank Pulley and the cam sprockets, do you need to have the belt on? I don't have it on yet and when I turn the Crank Pulley to line it up the cam sprockets, they don't move on their own.
Very helpful and thorough. Question: 2.5s
Are there different power steering with different pulleys? Are all pulleys changeable or there's some that you have to change the entire pump?
Damn you make boxers look EASY to work on. You've changed me
This is awesome thanks for posting, I need to do the cams seals as well on my 99 legacy. Was going to do it all at once. So basically I would just need to remove the cam sprockets and remove the seals. Anything special I need to know about removing cam sprockets? Thanks!
Very clear and detailed video! Tackling my car tonight. You rock!
This is an excellent video. Detailed very organized
do you actually need to remove the radiator? Seems like there is a decent amount of room in front there.
Maybe he removed it to get better video? Anyway, service manual recommends removing fans and putting cardboard and blanket over radiator. Not sure if dealer mechanics actually do this?