Subaru EJ253 SOHC Timing Belt & Water Pump Replacement
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2017
- Overview of timing belt/water pump replacement on a 2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i.
Tools used:
Subaru crank holding tool - amzn.to/2BHYnzV
1/2" drive ratchet - amzn.to/2LC5uyj
22mm crank bolt socket - amzn.to/2BKQ06R
3/8" drive socket & ratchet set - amzn.to/2Spd9T9
1/4" drive socket & ratchet set - amzn.to/2VNVgj4
M12 cordless ratchet kit - amzn.to/2BME3x9
Serpentine belt tool - amzn.to/2SswHGA
Lisle spill free funnel - amzn.to/2LCEwa3
Parts:
Aisin timing belt kit - amzn.to/2LIbK81
OEM Subaru thermostat - amzn.to/2Snopjb
Subaru super coolant - amzn.to/2BENuyE
If you like the vids and want to help make more: paypal.me/MrSubaru1387
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----I assume no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. I recommend safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond my control, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not myself.---- - Авто та транспорт
The only man on earth to work on a car without saying a single swear word 😂 nice video bro, really helpful!
When your that good , words aren't needed
Have watched hundreds of repair videos on YT and this is perhaps the best ever. Why do these other authors have an absurd intro with loud music that NO ONE cares about? Having the process typed out versus orally explaining is top notch as well. MrSubaru1387 rocks! Oh, and the Aisin part tip is :)
Thanks for helping me with this video. I did mine on new year's eve. The water pump gave me the biggest headache. But its been running great. Appreciate you. Saved me alot of labor costs. You da man!
plain and basic with detailed instructions, not a bad "how to" at all, well thought out and clear.
The comments section here is golden :)
you guys have been such a help, thanks to all.
Glad you found the video helpful. 👍🏻
The EJ 25 SOHC engines are by far my favorite to work on. Great video!
Thanks for this "A Quiet Place" meets Subaru timing belt video! I am confident enough now to do mine! Great job!
Awesome man. Thanks! One note: while the rad overflow tank is off, clean it thoroughly to remove sediment from the bottom. All that new fluid will be contaminated with the residual gunk. You may be helping out with recruiting subaru technicians. Good work!
this with a coolant flush is next on my list. Thanks again for your rad videos!! no one else does em like this for Subarus.
Fantastic video. I do a lot of my own car work and like most home gamers, consult UA-cam whenever I do something new. This is one of the best "how to" vids I've seen. Thanks much!
+Philbo Dale you're welcome. Glad to help.
Idk if I'm posting too much, but I just finished my second ej253 timing belt service today. No problems! Lightweight brag, but also another thank you!
I'm basically done doing basic service on both a 06 forester and 12 legacy. Idk what I'm gonna do with my free time now!
Thanks MrSubaru1387. I have just replaced the timing belt, pulleys and water pump on my Forester with the EJ251. Your video came in handy when I couldn't work out which order to put the pulleys on with the belt in place. Also a tip from me. You can use clothes line pegs to help keep the belt in place on the camshaft gears.
I replaced the belt and waterpump with an Aisin kit on my 09 last Saturday. The replacement went exactly like your video. Everything came apart easily, and assembly the same. It is surprising how low 28ftlbs feels when torquing the idlers. I used a new crank bolt, oiled the bolt and set my digital torque wrench to 55 degrees. Then checked with the clicker that I had at least 105 ft lbs. It was 40 degrees in my garage with the door open, took almost as long to bleed the cooling system waitin for the thermostat to open as the mechanical part of the job. Your video was a great help!
What if I have a normal torque wrench without the degree options can't I just torque it to spec and leave it?
Just stopping by to say thanks. This is an $1100 service at my local dealer. For about $250 in parts your video makes this an easy job to follow along with. Much appreciated!
+tfineis you're very welcome! 👍
Thanks MrSubaru1387 for another fine video! I will LITERALLY have my laptop sitting on top of the engine bay for reference as I'm performing this replacement !!
You're welcome.
I followed your directions to the letter. Great video and changed my timing belt myself. Thanks for making these videos brother!
You're welcome 👍🏻
I changed my belt this weekend thanks to your video. Thanks!
Bought 2008 outback with 77k just did timing belt and water pump @ 154000 with help of your video and tips. Greatly appreciate the videos and learning to do my own maintainece.
Thanks for the video big help. Only thing id add is that in any car that sees snow, the lower timing cover bolts may be a pain to get off. If the 10mm heads rounded, i was able to use a 3/8 and tap it on to remove them. May be wise to buy new bolts prior to starting this project.
The tool worked great
Thank you and I was able to replaced mine (2011 Outback 2.4)with the guidance of this video. Just an FYI to all - when I used subaru 78 degree Thermostat -, the Check Engine light (steady) Traction, Brake and cruise started blinking- even after resets it keeps coming back And the only way that I was able to clear it is to replace it with 88 degree thermostat and the warning messages all went away
Thank you for the video! It helped me change the timing belt on my newly acquired 2010 Outback. It had 202K miles on the original timing belt.
Thank you for this video. It took me a bit more than 32 minutes to do the job, but it all went perfectly.
I love your Precision. Every bolt with correct Nm.
+CivicNigga every fastener has a specified torque for a reason. The engineers have made that figure for reason. The best repair practice is to leave no evidence that a repair has been done. Make it like OE and you shouldn't have issue.
One comment about the Company 23 crank pulley tool...on my 2008 Forester I rested one end on the frame rail, made it very easy to unscrew the crank bolt. Then use the other frame rail when reinstalling.
You can also secure the ratchet against the frame rail or something and hit the starter to break the bolt loose. Disable the ignition first. lol. A 7/8" socket also fits the 22mm bolt, in case you don't have a metric socket that size. Can also use an old alternator belt. Loop it around the alternator, and fold the slack over on itself against the left side of the crank pulley. This will bind the crank pulley, so the bolt can be removed. It puts a crease in the belt, so it's best to use an old one.
I second that! Best auto repair video I've ever seen. You've set the standard...Well done!
I can vouch for the Company 23 crank pulley wrench. I am working on a 2012 Outback. My Harbor Freight stubby impact wrench and my Harbor Freight full size impact wrenches both failed to loosen the crank pulley bolt. I was able to engage the Company 23 wrench in the pulley and rest it on the frame under the air box, and use a breaker bar and iron pipe and the bolt came right out, no damage to the bolts the Company 23 wrench came with. My first timing belt install, going good so far!
Hell yeah! Dude, very impressive how you powered through that crank bolt!
Man, that was a big effen tree.
Great video and I like the way you show step by step procedures in your videos. You do very nice work!
Thank you.
Thanks for simplifying the crankshaft bolt tightening procedure. 47 N-m then 60 (+_ 5) degrees keeps it simple
Thanks for the great video! step by step and everything explained. Ive never seen that funnel tool before, i'll have to make one now!
You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed the video. 👍🏻
Another great video. I have stopped using Gates altogether like many others. I hope they will see it on their bottom line in a couple of years. I still use SKF wheel bearings and timing belt kits (generally NTN or Koyo components). I will look into Aisin next time. Many of the formerly "reputable" aftermarket brands are clogging the market with the same no-name "premium" components in different wrappings. I have recently seen rubber CV boots ("OE quality") failing after three years of use - OE are like 10-15 years.
Returning to this thread as I just wrapped up this job successfully today using your detailed instructions! Great reference for anyone attempting this repair.
In addition to the rusty timing cover bolts I encountered, the only other struggle I ran into was putting on the toothed water pump pulley. I'm sure it's easier the second time, but getting it positioned and the bolt started took a number of tries. I tried a few other options in putting that on first and the two other idlers last, and do not recommend that. Extremely difficult to keep the belt and passenger cam gear in position and no easier to get bolts started. Follow this guide with patience and it will eventually line-up.
Hopefully all set for another 105k miles!
Glad you were able to successfully finish the job! 👍
Yes, I wasted an hour and a half on that cog. I was convinced the belt was too short.
I recently helped a guy who had a Gates kit installed 8 months ago (not by me!). His tensioner pulley had already failed. Definitely agree, ONLY buy Aisin or Conti kits!
Finally was able to do it. Was scared as heck and had the help of my brother-in-law. But we managed and got it done. I feel so good. Thank you Mr Subaru for everything. Also for anyone I recommend definitely purchasing the specialty tool to remove the crank bolt and the no spill coolant reservoir. Both made the job super easy and manageable. Take your time, be positive, focus, and enjoy the process.
...How long did it actually take you to do the job? I’m looking at doing my first one.
@@82dupont it took about 5 hours (took our time). Hardest part putting in water pump because the gasket moves around and getting ac belt on.
@@determineddad7935 ...Thank you for quick response, definitely going to give it a shot. I’m only giving it a try because dealer price is insanely high. Not criticizing them just sticker shock.
@@82dupont Yeah it cost around $1500 I hear. Best wishes man. Have faith in yourself, take your time, and enjoy the process.
@@determineddad7935 ...All done, took me about 7 hrs, that includes coolant and burping the engine. Purchased some gasket maker for water pumps and put a bead around water pump, pressed gasket against it and gasket never moved.
Had a scare when coolant that was on exhaust started to burn off, I though water pump failed.
I was quoted $1800 for this job, I spent $500 in tools and parts for job, bought a 3/8 torque wrench came in incredibly handy and company 23 crank pulley tool.
Thanks for videos, they are a great help!
My sweet thing 06 2.5I is getting this to day .Almost done thanks to Mr subaru 1387 Thank you sir.
Your respond faster than anyone I know of...thanks alot...
You're welcome.
A TIP: Before you set time aside to do this job, look underneath the hood and check your timing belt cover bolts. I have 190k on my Outback and I'm from the Rust belt. I spent many extra hours getting those rusted bolts out. I replaced them with M6-1.00 20 bolts. I don't believe my Outback had ever had the timing belt and water pump done, wayyy overdue. Totally worth it. The kit is perfect and the crank pulley tool worked perfectly, I found one on amazon for $28 instead of the $70 tool he has listed.
Great Video. Right level of detail and speed.
Thank you. Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks, just completed a Legacy 2.5i premium.
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Thank you Mr. Subaru for such a great video! I hope you will be doing something similar for the FB20 engine on how to get to the timing chain cover. Thank you very much!!!
I kinda dig the neighbor going hard with the chainsaw in the background to be honest. Very helpful info all across your channel, thanks for the enlightening content.
Thank god I needed this video lol
Great video! I’m at 101k getting ready to do mine. I wish my engine bay looked this nice!
Good luck on the repair!
MrSubaru1387 Thanks! Where’s a good place to get the Aisin kit?
I buy them on Amazon.
@@MrSubaru1387 $225 on Rock Auto. Mine also had $25 shipping.
Thanks for recommending the Aisin kit. I had such a hard time when I was looking for mine and nearly went gates until I heard they were using cheapo Chinese bearings. I went subaru dealer direct for the kit and never heard of aisin so good to know for next time!
Made it to 187000kms on timing belt #o.e.m. lol . Was 2mm under thickness, tensioner was crying a bit. Timing was who knows. But followed Mr.S' direction and worth every moment of inner peace😂
Done thanks to your guide! Thankyou so much!
And the most stressful part of all this is when you turn the key....great video, thinking of doing my 2011
Thank you man, very useful. Will use as a reference.
Glad to help. 👍🏻
Хорошие делаете обзоры по ремонту 👍👍👍. Интересно и познавательно посмотреть. Буду руководствоваться вашими видеороликами по ремонту Subaru Outback.
Comming from a mechanic to obviously skilled young man with finesse and attention you deserve a thumbs up buddy and I would hire you any day++++
+Blue Floyd thank you. Glad you enjoy the videos. 👍
Great video. You make it look so easy.
Thank you.
I would like to add to this great video the following:
1. The belt's fit is very very tight, it stretches very little if anything and it's ribbed.
2. Hence, when you get it on on all the cogs, it gets divided into runs witch can stretch only within the run
3. when you do the belt on the car, even if you remove fans, you do not have visibility of all the holes where the bolts go
4. all together you need to install 1 x tensioner, 1 x cog idler, 2 x smooth idlers, top and bottom ones.
5. when you are installing the idlers and the tensioner, you have to stretch the belt (some strength is required) and fit the holding bolt into the hole you don't see - and that is not easy to do for some of them.
6. you have to start the bolts with your hand to make sure it's square fit, otherwise the steel bolts will make some mess with your aluminium engine.
So the above were just observations, and now are a couple of statements:
1. the cog pulley next to water pump and the tensioner are absolutely worst to fit in, so do them first.
MrSubaru fits the tensioner and the top idler first - that might not work for you, as the cog pulley is a dog to fit, being close to the water pump and not enough belt to stretch.
2. After you have fit the tensioner and the cog idler, install the top idler, as it's got nice long run of the belt to stretch, and then, the bottom idler, as it also has a nice long run to stretch.
That is the only way to work for me.
This was a great video. Thanks for the help!
You're welcome 👍🏻
dat my outback! thank for providing this video. Peace!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
good video i learn a lot thank you
great video its like you are an asmr mechanic
Thank you.
Nice work and nice tools!
+Homebrew Subaru thanks
So.. that car was 6-7 years old when this video was published? It's immaculate! I wish 6-7 year old cars looked like that in my neck of the woods. If they aren't covered in rust by that age they are caked with years of Krown/Rustchek and the accompanying grime.
Looks the same today at 215k miles. My brother still owns it.
Hi, I'm having problems keeping the drivers side cam gear in correct position and getting the toothed sprocket around the timing belt. Any tips on how you do that would be greatly appreciated.
Man i looked for hours on this vehicle that my neighbor asked me for help im very good at what i do but this was my first suby and man i think i put the thermostat the wrong way 😂 i didn't see when i removed it because it felt off so I didn't get a look but thanks to you I'll look tomorrow 😅
As an alternative to messing with the cooling fans, you can just pull the entire radiator and get a couple more inches to work in. Useful if you don't have a power ratchet and want to cram a driver tool in there.
On the crank bolt:
- On older cars that have already had a timing service, I've seen a few crank pulley bolts that are *BENT* because of god knows what the last guy did. They also tend to be waaay tighter than they really need to be. Just buy a new bolt - they're Subaru-only, but they're like $3-5.
If you're using this for an older engine that still has two serpentine belts:
- You may as well go ahead and buy a replacement air conditioning idler. I have *NEVER* seen one where the bearing wasn't shot. Dayco part 89029 is a high quality replacement with a good bearing and, unlike the OEM part, the pulley is *metal*. Really. Don't neglect it. I've seen one cause a timing belt break because the bearing on the A/C idler pulley let go, the belt carved a gash in the timing cover and tore the timing belt.
- You'll also want a belt tension measurement tool. You can't just eyeball these - you'll either have them slipping like crazy or side load the bearings to death.
On manual transmission cars:
- Some but not all manual cars will have a little 'guard' shroud bolted on around the crank sprocket. Remove it to service the timing belt. It's there to prevent the timing belt from skipping teeth under shock load if you stall the engine or dump the clutch. When you reinstall it, it should be close enough to the belt that the belt will not be able to rise up out of the tooth grooves and skip. It should *NOT* touch the belt. Occasionally you see these on automatic cars that have had a replacement engine.
As it regards the crank pulley tool:
-You DEFINITELY need it, and you definitely want the Company23 one, not the knockoffs available for half the price. The harmonic balancers actually vary a bit in size and the cheap ones *will not seat inside* some of them on the smaller end and you'll end up bending/breaking the bolts on the tool.
Note for 2022 on the coolant:
- Definitely ignore Subaru's ridiculous coolant fill procedure. It's a recipe for dumping $50 in coolant on the ground. This guy's is fine and accomplishes the same thing. Yes, you do want the big bucket funnel thing. They're like thirty bucks on Amazon.
- If you're not reusing your old coolant, you can probably only get the blue Subaru "Super Coolant" these days. For this stuff, you don't need the conditioner. It's godawful expensive, though. Since you'll end up with a mix of this and the old coolant, you should continue to use the service interval for the old coolant. Once you've changed it 2 times, you can switch over to using the much higher service interval for the super coolant cars.
I was flying along through this job until it came time to put the water pump cog on. I seriously thought I had been shipped a belt that was too short. No matter how hard I tried I could not get all three hatch marks on the belt to line up exactly. Then when it came time to put the cog on...Christ, what an ordeal. That belt is strung tight. I have done the timing belt on a BMW e30 and that was cake compared to this.
This is Quality, Thank you!
very informative. thank you
Hello, what is your recommendation for the camshaft and crankshaft/oil pump housing seals when doing the timing belt? Is it necessary to do those or leave them alone if they are not leaking? Mine is a 2011 impreza 2.5i N/A SOHC with 101k miles. I am planning on doing the timing belt soon. I think I can handle doing the seals if I get the seal puller/installer tool, my only concern is removing the oil pump (for the oil pump inlet o-ring) and having to use liquid gasket when installing
Thanks so much for the video. Just finished doing the timing belt, tensioner, idlers and water pump on an 09 Impreza SOHC. Your video was extremely helpful. However, because it is too much to expect that things go smoothly, now that it's all back together I see that there is a square-ish 'L' shaped seal that is supposed to be pressed in to the left side of the water pump body (when looking from the front of the car). It looks like it maybe helps seal off between the side of the pump and the block - is this to keep dust and debris out of the timing belt compartment? Is it critical (I know, I know, it's a seal therefore important, but I'm really hoping not to have to take everything apart again... Thanks, am hoping you'll be able to answer this. Thanks for all your videos.
Great Video! I've got a question for you. I recently replaced all of the Cooling Components(Radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses and Super Coolant) with new parts from Subaru on my 2011 Outback 2.5i Premium after watching your videos which helped out greatly. Immediately after starting the engine, the Top Radiator Hose and Heater Hoses are really hot with in a minute or two and the there's heat coming out of the Dash Heater on Defrost almost instantly. The top Hose stays really hot while the lower hose barely get warm after several minutes. What's the possibility of the water pump and thermostat being bad or not working properly from the dealer? I am using the Lisle Spill Free Funnel after your suggestion and I was thinking of taking the thermostat housing off after draining the new coolant and checking the impellors on the pump and testing the thermostat and possibly not putting the thermostat back in to see if it still gets that hot after starting. any suggestion or help would be greatly appreciated.
The crankshaft bolt was the tightest bolt I've ever gone up against (not counting rusty exhaust bolts that just snapped)
watch many video of how to and this got to be the clearest how-to without all the nonsense blabbering... well-done..., and THANK YOU!
LOL 17:06 very funny with the chainsaw background sound. Thanks for the quality content.
OK, I've replaced it. Thanks again for the video it was of great help. Until today I worked only on European cars where you cant fit your hand anywhere in the engine compartment and I found this job very easy. Didn't have to remove anything but the covers, aux belts and pulley.
my 2011 legacy is getting a new timing belt. $900.00 bill, I can see why. Thank you for posting.
Aisin kit is $225 plus shipping off Rock Auto. That's a lot of labor for something an amateur can accomplish within half a day. Just did mine for the first time and it wasn't that bad. Crank bolt is 22mm, or 7/8" in American. There are tricks for loosening it without that tool. Long 90 degree bent needle nose pliers are handy for hose clamps. But, this is a key job, and if a person does not feel comfortable with it, it can be best to leave it with someone who does. Good Luck
@@n2omike yeah that’s pretty fair. My aunts former 2010 Outback needed a timing belt service and our cousin was able to get her a deal with his mechanic and he did the job for $750. Which was amazingly inexpensive for that job!
Good source of info .
Liked and subbed ✔️
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for ALL the great help....just doing a quick re freash on a EJ253 ...pulled rockers and replaced valve seals only. followed all specs on the rocker install and head placement. BUT trying to now line up marks to install timing belt and the cam sprockets on both side are "stiff" and then seem to "spring" past the timing marks....what in the world did I do wrong? Didnt think there was a wrong way to install the rocker shafts? Thanks again
what do you do when your gear drive tensioner pulley has weeblewobbled from bearing failure, and now the threads into the block are destroyed?
Well, I did this job 6 months ago with a GATES timing belt kit. Please go with what MrSubaru recommends here. One of my timing idler bearings is already bad. Luckily the part is under warranty but the job is just annoying to do after hoping I wouldn't be back into it for 100k miles. Stick with the Aisin kit. Apparently even GATES uses cheap bearings now.
Here we go, time to study. So far between my 06 forester and 12 legacy both ej253's I've changed two cv axles, two links, two ball joints and two tie rod ends. Pretty easy stuff so this will be the real test!
Going to replace both timing belt kits with aisin. Mr. Subaru you've saved me hundreds if not soon a couple thousand!
Mr. Subaru! I recently did a leak down test, with these results. 1: 21%, 2:30%, 3:20% and 4:32%. I did a compression test, 1,2,3 were at 180 psi and 4 was at 175. I had a very difficult time finding tdc, I had to turn the crank to the perfect spot, so I opened the timing belt case. I noticed the notches did not line up once when I balanced tdc on the leak down test. The intake and exhaust were leaking air on every cylinder (this I believe means my timing belt needs to be done). Any suggestions on what I should do? With good compression results I'm crossing my fingers the valves and cylinders are in decent shape and I didn't see bubbles in the radiator. I'm continuing to study this video, but I'm nervous!
I've probably watched this 20 times by now...
I have air tools, question for you, can I just use a high torque impact wrench without using the crank pulley holding tool? Great video!
Hola que tal saludos desde México, tengo un motor ej25 tengo una pregunta me podrías decir cuando me recomiendas cambiar la banda del tiempo?
Great video!!
Thanks!
Best instructions ever, my 2010 forester non turbo snapped the timing belt while I was driving, my mechanic told me if he’s was able to manually turn the crankshaft to full rotation as you did ( camshaft as well) He did and told most likely nothing bad happened to the engine. I order the parts he installed. Now there’s a sound of no compression. Is there’s a chance of being out of time be the cause ?
Hello Again- I got an hypothetical question- What will you do if the timing belt was removed w/o aligning the cams /crankshaft first? Can you just turn them and align them all and put the new belt ? Thanks again.
Hey MrSubaru. I have a 2011 Outback 2.5, and I can't get the Crank Sprocket
off (to replace the Crank Seal). I soaked it with penetrating lube overnight, but no luck. I'm guessing it has corrosion on it, making it difficult to remove. I've been real careful prying on it, so as not to break a tooth or the aluminum head. Should I use heat? Is there such a thing as a Crank Sprocket PULLER? Do I need to take the Woodruff Key out FIRST (is that even possible)? Beat on it? Any advice appreciated. Thanks !
question for everyone, i just had to make an emergency surgery into the timing guts of my '03 sohc outback that is at 218,000 miles...the toothed idler had its bearings fail, and then cracked the timing belt cover, but by some miracle it didnt break the belt, however, turning the engine to get both cams and the crankshaft to all 3 line up is a bit challenging with that busted component...what do yall think? is it best if i slap the broken pulley back on to try to rotate them into proper position??
Very good informative video. I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i and I think this is the exact same procedure for my vehicle?
Batman replacing a timing belt, ha ha .... Excellent video and tutorial. cheers
Great video. Few questions. Do you normally replace cam/crank seals at the timing belt interval? Also, interested in your thoughts on the value of subaru recommended coolant conditioner?
I usually replace cam/crank seals depending on mileage and vehicle age. Some people forgo the added expense, but it is always cheaper in the long run to do all preventative measures while you're in there. This is my brother's 2011, not a single leak, we decided to skip it at this service. Now, when I did the same service on my 98 Legacy, I did replace the seals.
Subaru coolant conditioner is re-branded Holts RadWeld, a coolant stop leak type product. I don't use it normally. If requested, I'll add it, but I don't run it in mine. It was brought about as a band-aid to help during the time that the EJ25D head gasket issues first started to arise. Once the failed OE coated HGs are replaced with the new OE MLS, nothing should be needed but clean coolant.
You're Awesome Sir. Thank you, God Bless! Question Is there other way to take out the crank pulley bolt without the Crank Pulley Holding Tool?
5:15
What is that part? It's called stopper rod in the video but I'll I'm finding is pitch rods.
great video! I also need to replace the timing belt on my 2009 Legacy. Do you recommend replacing the water pump as well? The official service just told me not to chnage the water pump.
Always replace the belt, idler pulleys, tensioner, and pump.
Thanks, good video!
It would be great if you show how to replace crankshaft's and camshafts's seals on EJ253
Thanks in advance
Yaroslav Arabok exactly. My dealer insisted on doing that. I want to do this job myself. Dealer wants over $1200 bucks to do this job.
Great video! Do you recommend anti-seize on any of the blots, or just dry other than the crank pulley bolt?
Love the instructions, thanks a bunch.
Did you end up having any through-holes for the water pump that needed some sealer on the bolts? Is that something you would recommend?
Very clear video. I would have preferred if you would have explained instead of just writing your steps. Thank you. I don't trust my mechanical ability, so I will pay someone to do my 09 Forester next month.
May I ask what are the special tools (sizes) and stuffs needed to buy before doing this DIY.. Thanks in advance
At then end, after rotating the engine and checking the timing marks, assume you remove the crank bolt, install the cover, then install the pulley and bolt. Has the crank gear ever slipped when you do this?
At about 19:40sec you were installing the new timing belt. It seems like you didn't have enough slack to go around the crank pulley. How did you get the belt to fit?
hello,did you block the flexible rubber hose in the reservior tank?
Great video! I have an oil leak coming out of the vvl oil pressure sensor on my 08 impreza, do you know what socket size to I use to take it off?
+Luis E Santiago it'll be an oil pressure switch socket. Specifically made for the switch. store.snapon.com/Oil-Pressure-Oil-Pump-Socket-Oil-Pressure-Sender-Switch-3-8-drive-3-11-16-long-P635865.aspx
hi - I didn't see you swap over the rubber insert/channel on the water pump - is that essestial? - as I was looking at my old water pump and realised I didn't put it on the new one I already put on the car ;-( I don't think ti will leak - But I have noticed a new noise I wonder if it's vibration I can now hear from the water pump?
YIKES, I hope this post helps someone else.
I was halfway through this job today. Upon inspecting/ comparing the asin water pump with the original, they're different! I had ordered the tkf-006 kit. I cannot describe it accurately, but basically my EJ-253 has an additional coolant hose line enter the water pump(2 not 3 like the turbo). I am not certain, but after some research I found the oem pump similar to mine. Part #21111aa290.
I'm irritated the parts department is closed on Sunday. @mrsubaru any idea why this happened?
I was way overdue on this service, all my idlers were super raspy. I tried contacting Aisin to confirm that I had ordered the right kit. But I'm bummed I never heard back. I'm 99% certain I don't have a turbo, so I'm almost certain I shouldn't have gotten the tkf-004
What model and year Subaru?
@@MrSubaru1387 06 forester x
There's the issue. It's a Forester. Their water pumps are different due to the oil cooler.
@@MrSubaru1387 hmm, I ordered the kit from aisin/amazon, and used their site to determine what kit to get. I'm not sure if I needed to or could have specified with my Amazon order. Thank you for the feedback/ reassurance. I've been really studying everything, and am surprised that the Haynes repair manual didn't specify either, unless I missed it... I am irritated I'm not done, and had to use the loading bay at work to stay warm (in MA). But I really hope the dealership has this part in stock. If not, should I reinstall the old visually ok water pump or roll the dice with gates? This forester is at 214k miles, all the idlers were raspy, the tensioner was leaking hydraulic fluid and the thermostat gasket was a bit melted in the water pump. I'm practicing on my 06 forester now, gotta do my gf's 12 legacy next. Messing around with these cars have become my new covid hobby. You rock!