I used this guide step by step while doing my timing belt for the first time This is one of the most descriptive,accurate, and informative/helpful guides I’ve ever seen BIG PROPS to this guy
Nam’s is a great teacher. Clear speaking and soft spoken. Only a guru gives an interview in nitrile gloves with torque specs at the front of every sentence. Thanks!!!
The one thing I would add to this procedure is to turn the engine over by hand for 2 full revolutions and check the timing marks again, before reinstalling the cover. It's a handy way to ensure all the slack is taken out of the belt and that you still have all the sprockets in position. A little too much slack in the bottom of the belt, and you'll end up with one bank about a tooth out of position. I know it's probably not an _absolute_ requirement if everything was done perfectly, but it's always best to be extra sure before firing the engine. And it only takes a minute or two - cheap insurance, I reckon. :-)
Procharged 4.3 V6 S10 guy here... I love this video. Had the Timing kit on hand for the 02 WRX I bought last summer... 161K on original belt... Yikes. Love these little boxer engines. Power per cubic inch is insane... Easy to work on. VIDEO IS AWESOME... It made total sense to me. Watched it 3 times just to make sure I had it down pat. Thanks Speed Academy!!!
I wanted to take a minute to thank you for posting this video. You saved my butt resetting the driver side cams after they slipped changing my timing belt
Thanks guys! This helped me a ton. A little note for people with V1 JDM motors (Mine's an EJ20G): You will need to either re-use or find a different (older style) tensioner. Besides that, everything else will work!
Did your engine explode? This video was a speed run of the entire process and people in the comments are saying how detailed it was when it really wasnt
I just did this to my 2010 wrx ej25 ,the video was a great guide. Had a problem, someone put a weaker bolt on my water pump and it broke 🥲... it had a numer 4 on it... the rest of water pump bolts got a 9 stamped, it looks like he grabbed same length and size bolt from the timing cover Just make sure guys you don't mismatch your bolts ! Thanks again for this great video
An easy thing I like to do when installing timing belts, is to use a small clamp to hold the belt on the cam gears. It's just enough tension to hold the belt from slipping off as you snake the belt onto all of the pulleys so you can use both hands.
These guys did a great job on this video. The one thing I never understood though is why mechanics never clean the parts when they put them back together. When people buy a brand new part and spent hundreds of dollars they want their car to look like they got a brand new part on it and everything looking clean shiny and new. I can’t stand it when they take things apart and then put them back together dirty and sometimes even dirtier then the engine was before it came into the shop. Clean the parts before you re-install everything so that the customer can tell and appreciate your work and the nice new part shows off!
Because no one ever pays a mechanic to clean parts! Customers already complain about high prices can you imagine tacking on 1-2 hours onto a job for cleaning...
I agree with Dmax, if the timingbelt covers are dirty, dirt can cause more problems on the road with new parts. It's true that cleaning parts is time consuming but if you want treat your customers good they will come back with more for you.
So much easier then I expected im bout to buy a 07 2.5 auto impreza wagon I really think it needs a timing belt but i was debating on buying it because of the belt needing replaced but now i see its not as bad as i thought think you for this video much appreciated
Best video ever. I'm a factory trained BMW tech, independent shop, own a single cam head Subaru, it is the same except easier. Thank you for adding to my breadbasket of skills. Awesome tech, he could be a factory trainer.
This video was perfect. I used a Dayco belt and it also had the timing marks on the belt. Managed to have the belt on in under 10 minutes by myself. Thank-you - Subscribed.
This video wasnt out when I did my timing belt... wish it was bcuz it was so much more informative then the forum I was using... they made it look so easy... this job took me 2 days to complete with alot of blood sweat and tears... no lie... it absolutely sucked doing this job and this video makes me realize the forum was wronge in the procedure... lol
I wish he can be my mentor as I start to learn more about my Subie. I love how thorough he is. Thank you Speed Auto for the video! I’m about to do my belt soon and will need this video. Update I started my belt job and I think I will need that tool for the two belts that goes to the ac and alternator.
good for you and in all honesty never buy one either, they are nothing but problems. cheaply made subaru is just coasting on reputation. its a hill i am willing to die on after owning 3 subarus - never again
Now that ladies and gentlemen is a Trained Professional. Turning the engine 720 degrees ensures the job has gone according to plan and as for the coolant, I use a Radiator Vacuum Tool. No air locks and much faster to evacuate the air from the cooling system. Very well done.
Great video! Very Detailed and straightforward. I helped my buddy do his timing chain in just a few hours. Did the spark plugs while we were at it, and that took longer lol
Wow! That tech should start making his own tutorial videos. Great job kid ya kept it simple and quick. I sure hope that they are paying you what your worth if not quit and start making automotive repair videos.
Recently figured out that to hold the harmonic balancer/crank pulley while you crack loose the bolt, you can use the old belt. Basically fold it over itself and loop the other end over an extension that’s braced up top. It’ll hold it good enough to pop that bolt loose. It slipped a little bit, BUT if you got a cheater bar on there and use quick jolts of force it’ll break loose no prob! They also make a special tool to hold the pulley so if you do this a lot maybe that would be your most professional option.
I've loved you guys for the mullet mustang and have used plenty of those vids to dive deep on repairs for my 3V. I was ecstatic to see that you guys also have vids on EJ engine Subarus after I just bought a Forester XT a few days ago that needs some work
Glad to see it worked out I did them a bit differently at the dealer. Looking at the engine from the front I used those black spring paper clamps to hold the belt at the correct mark on the left bank, leave the clogged gear and the tiny gear off all others in place. Then belt over the crank held with a plastic friction clamp. Set both right side cam gears on top of the closest lobes so they don't spin out then use clamps to hold the belt on respective marks tucking excess belt between the cam gears, now the belt can't slip. Grab the belt by the water pump and pull and all the slack goes there for installing the cogged gear there then push down on the belt by the tensioner to pull the slack there rolling the cams and pulling slack there for the last idler, double check marks and pull the tensioner pin.
Very good video! I had removed the gearbox and the flywheel for another repair on a GC8 so I saw straight away the problem of removing the crank pulley. To do so I fabricated a special tool which holds the pulley from the 4 holes and the same time the socket can reach the bolt. It was also designed as such that it can remove the pulley by just moving away the fans without removing the radiator and coolant.
Always rotate engine by hand before installing belt covers. Also i recomend vacuum coolant filler tool. Makes life much easier, even in bmw m50 it takes out all the air pockets first try.
99% of this is spot on. Only things I do differently is I don't really torque the idlers down (never had a problem with it) and I always rotate engine a few times to make sure my crank/cam sprockets line up again. If it's a manual I will pull tensioner pin and start the engine. If it's auto I will do at cooler lines to rad pull pin and then start it. It's just bad juju to me if I don't start the engine with cover off. It's just how I KNOW the engine won't grenade it's self.
I did this job and this video helped alot, however I found a tool from a place called company 23 that will hold your drivers side cams in place while you do the job, really saved some time and helped me not be so nervous about doing this job
I feel like replacing the oil pump is a must while in there too. That's just me though. Lol. That's what I want to do when I get in there. My car has 230,000 miles on it now. Last time the head gaskets got changed was around 150,000 miles with the old owner. I'd like to re do all the seals and other gaskets while I'm in there as well. I'm a bit nervous cause this will be my first time ever even removing the engine from this car or any car. All my 'mechanic skills' comes from all the other jobs I've done with this car. Videos like this help a lot. I'm spamming my brain with videos like this. I'm not doing the job either for a couple of months. Gotta get all the parts together first. Videos like this help a lot. Thanks! Hopefully I can get to your level of expertise eventually, lol. Hopefully I don't fuck my car up either. 🤣🤣
Great video. I really appreciate it when people take the time to walk through and explain how these type of things are done even though I’d still farm out this kind of job.
Thank you for the video, I'm facing the prospect of needing to do this to my wrx and was wondering how difficult it would be to do myself. I talked with some people at car meets I go to with subarus of their own and they kept saying how you would have to take the engine out. I found that pretty ridiculous so good to know its possible without doing so.
3:30 - The crank pully has threaded holes in it which you use to attach a special tool to. This allows you to hold the pully (and crankshaft) stationary while you loosen the front crankshaft bolt. The holes are clearly visible in the pully while they describe the backyard bodgers way of doing it without the correct tools.
You really don't need to use the tool. there's more than one way to skin a cat. if you want to make or purchase a tool to use once in a while go right ahead. there is nothing wrong with that method.
I liked the video and it was very good information. The only thing I would be hesitant to a do is out coper anti seize on those bolts since copper and aluminium are enemies because of the electrolysis between copper and aluminium and the aluminium is likely to get eaten out if there is any moisture at all present.
I was getting very frustrated with my timing belt until I saw this video. Thanks a bunch. The only thing I would like to know is what to torque the crankshaft pully bolt to?
whenever you fill a cooling system it is always a good idea to put the heater on HOT. That way there is circulation through the heater circuit as well and that mighthelp get rid of air pockets as well.
No hot water valve. But the heat is a good idea cause if the heat is strong you no there is no air pocket and the pump is circulating the coolant properly and not having cavitation
Ejs have very little issues with locking air in the system. I would usually have heat in a few minutes. If there wasn't heat in about 30 minutes shut the car off fir 15 minutes top off the radiator, they always seem to suck the air bubble through while cooling, that was primarily on the 10 and 11 Legacy and Outback with the bastard Ej.
Can you provide a sohc kit name brand ,, that is not sub. Or gates please, This is a great video series. Thanks for doinv. From great shop, And great techs.
Benjamin Rhodes Search out the best brand of stop leak and screw that piece of crap and Subaru. That's their advise on cars under warranty. In order to limp em past warranty experation so Subaru can tell you...oooh Shit man! Sorry sir. Warranty is up. Looks like that will be at least $1,500. Yep. $1,500 every 100,000 miles for the rest of your Subaru ownership experience.
I've done this on my own cars before, the oil leak isn't pressurized oil just return to the pan from the heads. Drain the oil, clean the bottom of the head with brake clean let dry for an hour or so, make sure residual oil isn't leaking in which case clean again. If it's dry smear a nice thick bead of engine sealer along the bottom side of the head/block seam. Use your finger to smooth it out. Let it dry for 24 hours, fill with oil. I've stopped or at least slowed down some bad ones with good results
@@davidclark5138 if you're doing a 2.5L go with 2010 Legacy headgaskets, I only use Subaru never aftermarket. The 2010 used a 2 shim steel gasket instead of the synthetic gasket, I never saw one leak oil, I use them in all the jobs I do from home
I'm surprized to see that there were no timing belt guides. I really wanted to see how those are installed back (spacing and stuff). Also, there was no mention of the air bleeding of the timing belt tensioner. I saw that on a different video. This makes me question the necessity of doing that. Does it need air bleeding or not? Lastly, is it a good idea to wear fresh gloves when installing the new belt so as to not potentially expose the rubber on the belt to any grease? Just wondering.
as a rexy owner.... I will most definitely be saving this one in the repairs playlist for future reference :') pretty sure the belt is due very soon...
Love watching the pure Canadian content. I'm going to be doing my 04 XT's belt soon, and figured I should give this a watch. NVAuto was a pleasant treat too. I enjoyed seeing the types of tools Nam was using to complete the job. Electric ratchet > air ratchet.
Most videos I have seen the tech doesn't break the bolt by hand and then use the impact ..this tech did... also nice to see a quality digital torque wrench being used... great job... did the car have issues with the timing being off a tooth?
I've never done a subaru timing belt, but I've done on normal inline engines and before putting all the covers I rotate the crankshaft twice just to double check the marks again and in case there was some slack that I didn't notice
Thanks for the videos guys. It’s funny, the more my wife learns about her Subaru, the more open she is open to owning something with a small block Chevy haha.
I am wanting to change my timing myself because $1400 is out of my price range. This video to me is the most informational video I have seen. What is the difficulty level of this procedure?
Just fyi for anyone with an auto trans. You can stick 2 extensions into the crank pully (there are 4 holes you can see, i forget what size but I think it is 3/8") but once you put 2 extensions into 2 holes that are next to each other, get a pry bar or something solid you can stick between the 2 extensions and have someone hold that in place to lock up the crank pully then you can get the bolt out with a ratchet and cheater bar.
Great instructional but I can’t believe you didn’t turn the motor over by hand at least a couple times to be certain the cams lined back up and tooth counts stay the same. Maybe it’s just me but I always do that. I can rest easier knowing their wasn’t some strange slack in the belt that threw things off before cranking it up.
I have an '05 Legacy GT that I did the timing belt, tensioner, pulley's, and water pump on at only 65k miles as the car was 10 years old at the time and Subaru calls for it to be done at that time interval regardless of mileage. At that low mileage (40k miles below what Subaru specifies the TB to be done at) one of the pulleys already sounded terrible, like it was full of sand. I wouldn't have wanted that thing in there another 100 miles, much less 40k! Nevertheless I found the job not too daunting. It was made easier by the easy access right in the front. I once did a Toyota Corolla that I thought was way harder than this one because of the tb location. I also used the Gates kit but opted for an Aisin water pump (Made in Japan) instead as it was only around $25 more. Another thing I didn't see you guys do in this video was use loctite on the pulley bolts. It's probably not necessary but it's good insurance imo.
Like replacing the spark plugs? I never needed to remove the battery, intake, and windshield washer reservoir to replace spark plugs on my other cars. I just--get this--removed the spark plugs.
Wow great video!!! Very well instructed and a lot of good tips and quirks only someone that's worked on these engine for a long time like Nam can tell u
I used this guide step by step while doing my timing belt for the first time
This is one of the most descriptive,accurate, and informative/helpful guides I’ve ever seen BIG PROPS to this guy
What size allen key was used?
Nam’s is a great teacher. Clear speaking and soft spoken. Only a guru gives an interview in nitrile gloves with torque specs at the front of every sentence. Thanks!!!
The one thing I would add to this procedure is to turn the engine over by hand for 2 full revolutions and check the timing marks again, before reinstalling the cover. It's a handy way to ensure all the slack is taken out of the belt and that you still have all the sprockets in position. A little too much slack in the bottom of the belt, and you'll end up with one bank about a tooth out of position. I know it's probably not an _absolute_ requirement if everything was done perfectly, but it's always best to be extra sure before firing the engine. And it only takes a minute or two - cheap insurance, I reckon. :-)
Exactly what I was looking for before I said it.
aussiebloke609 I agree
Yeah goodpoint
I'm sure he knows
excellent comment, I remember my buddy showed me the same thing during my build
Now thats the type of mechanic you want working on your vehicle!
a JDM mechanic
One who specializes in Japanese cars
Insane Engine JDM stands for Japanese Domestic Market which refers to all the cars (and products) made in Japan.
ua-cam.com/video/Mh22j_T5nL0/v-deo.html
Seriously
I really liked this video a lot. This technician explained things well and I like how you showed every step of the process. I learned a lot, thanks.
agreed. Good job!
gracias por la explicación les envío un saludo de Querétaro
That "beep" on the LH cam sprocket got me 🤣🤣🤣
Procharged 4.3 V6 S10 guy here... I love this video. Had the Timing kit on hand for the 02 WRX I bought last summer... 161K on original belt... Yikes. Love these little boxer engines. Power per cubic inch is insane... Easy to work on. VIDEO IS AWESOME... It made total sense to me. Watched it 3 times just to make sure I had it down pat. Thanks Speed Academy!!!
I wanted to take a minute to thank you for posting this video. You saved my butt resetting the driver side cams after they slipped changing my timing belt
Thanks guys! This helped me a ton.
A little note for people with V1 JDM motors (Mine's an EJ20G):
You will need to either re-use or find a different (older style) tensioner. Besides that, everything else will work!
Thanks guys. Just finished my timing belt using this video. Never thought I could. Really appreciate your efforts
Thanks awesome to hear! Glad we were able to help.
Did your engine explode? This video was a speed run of the entire process and people in the comments are saying how detailed it was when it really wasnt
I just did this to my 2010 wrx ej25 ,the video was a great guide. Had a problem, someone put a weaker bolt on my water pump and it broke 🥲... it had a numer 4 on it... the rest of water pump bolts got a 9 stamped, it looks like he grabbed same length and size bolt from the timing cover
Just make sure guys you don't mismatch your bolts !
Thanks again for this great video
Nam is awesome! Clear, easy to follow! He should have his own channel! Good job Nam!
Best video I have found on how to do this. The other guys who have made videos on this need to watch this video and ease their pain a bit! Thanks
Just what I was looking for with Nam presenting a video, because I'm doing my timing belt and associated parts today!
An easy thing I like to do when installing timing belts, is to use a small clamp to hold the belt on the cam gears. It's just enough tension to hold the belt from slipping off as you snake the belt onto all of the pulleys so you can use both hands.
Just done my own belt on my 2001 subaru forester turbo, couldn't have done it without this guide! Huge thanks.
These guys did a great job on this video. The one thing I never understood though is why mechanics never clean the parts when they put them back together. When people buy a brand new part and spent hundreds of dollars they want their car to look like they got a brand new part on it and everything looking clean shiny and new. I can’t stand it when they take things apart and then put them back together dirty and sometimes even dirtier then the engine was before it came into the shop. Clean the parts before you re-install everything so that the customer can tell and appreciate your work and the nice new part shows off!
Because no one ever pays a mechanic to clean parts! Customers already complain about high prices can you imagine tacking on 1-2 hours onto a job for cleaning...
I agree with Dmax, if the timingbelt covers are dirty, dirt can cause more problems on the road with new parts. It's true that cleaning parts is time consuming but if you want treat your customers good they will come back with more for you.
It's all under the cover you'll never see it anyway. If you want it clean pay me for it. Flat rate doesn't
So much easier then I expected im bout to buy a 07 2.5 auto impreza wagon I really think it needs a timing belt but i was debating on buying it because of the belt needing replaced but now i see its not as bad as i thought think you for this video much appreciated
how'd it go
Best video ever. I'm a factory trained BMW tech, independent shop, own a single cam head Subaru, it is the same except easier. Thank you for adding to my breadbasket of skills. Awesome tech, he could be a factory trainer.
Kevin Bowers Yep. Smart BMW owners don't drive the moneypits that provide their income. They find solid, simple economy rigs.
This video was perfect. I used a Dayco belt and it also had the timing marks on the belt. Managed to have the belt on in under 10 minutes by myself. Thank-you - Subscribed.
And than what happened 6 hours later? Lol
This video wasnt out when I did my timing belt... wish it was bcuz it was so much more informative then the forum I was using... they made it look so easy... this job took me 2 days to complete with alot of blood sweat and tears... no lie... it absolutely sucked doing this job and this video makes me realize the forum was wronge in the procedure... lol
Jesus lol what did they have you do?
I wish he can be my mentor as I start to learn more about my Subie. I love how thorough he is. Thank you Speed Auto for the video! I’m about to do my belt soon and will need this video. Update I started my belt job and I think I will need that tool for the two belts that goes to the ac and alternator.
Thank you for this video! Got my timing belt, water pump, thermostat, tensioner and idlers changed and now my car is running good!
Nicely done. Prob the best how-to video on the EJ timing belt. Really shows how 'not that daunting' it is. 🤙
Nam is the man; I like how thorough he was on the marks.
I don’t even own a Subaru, but can’t miss a speed academy video! Can’t wait to see an update on the badass2000!
good for you and in all honesty never buy one either, they are nothing but problems. cheaply made subaru is just coasting on reputation. its a hill i am willing to die on after owning 3 subarus - never again
The word “double check” makes me confident with this professional mechanic. Great info and clear explanation 👍😀
Now that ladies and gentlemen is a Trained Professional. Turning the engine 720 degrees ensures the job has gone according to plan and as for the coolant, I use a Radiator Vacuum Tool. No air locks and much faster to evacuate the air from the cooling system. Very well done.
This video is worth it just for the reminder to mark the belt. I often forget this amazing tip.
Did my 2014 STI last weekend. Your video helped guide me through the entire procedure.
How long did it take you?
Yes, how long?
Posted 6 years ago, but its still my go to video for timing belt replacement guide! 👌
Thanks for making this really professional level guide.
Thanks a lot! this video helpded a lot. finished the job last night. That spill-free funnel is SO worth the 30 bucks
Great video! Very Detailed and straightforward. I helped my buddy do his timing chain in just a few hours. Did the spark plugs while we were at it, and that took longer lol
Proper video mates, good edits, good camera work, plain and simple with useful tips. A menu of tools at the end would be nice.
Wow! That tech should start making his own tutorial videos. Great job kid ya kept it simple and quick. I sure hope that they are paying you what your worth if not quit and start making automotive repair videos.
Recently figured out that to hold the harmonic balancer/crank pulley while you crack loose the bolt, you can use the old belt. Basically fold it over itself and loop the other end over an extension that’s braced up top. It’ll hold it good enough to pop that bolt loose. It slipped a little bit, BUT if you got a cheater bar on there and use quick jolts of force it’ll break loose no prob! They also make a special tool to hold the pulley so if you do this a lot maybe that would be your most professional option.
I've loved you guys for the mullet mustang and have used plenty of those vids to dive deep on repairs for my 3V. I was ecstatic to see that you guys also have vids on EJ engine Subarus after I just bought a Forester XT a few days ago that needs some work
We are gonna do this on my Impreza 2008 non-turbo this weekend. I'll use this video, thanks a lot
Glad to see it worked out I did them a bit differently at the dealer. Looking at the engine from the front I used those black spring paper clamps to hold the belt at the correct mark on the left bank, leave the clogged gear and the tiny gear off all others in place. Then belt over the crank held with a plastic friction clamp. Set both right side cam gears on top of the closest lobes so they don't spin out then use clamps to hold the belt on respective marks tucking excess belt between the cam gears, now the belt can't slip. Grab the belt by the water pump and pull and all the slack goes there for installing the cogged gear there then push down on the belt by the tensioner to pull the slack there rolling the cams and pulling slack there for the last idler, double check marks and pull the tensioner pin.
thank you for this video!! confident now that changing a t-belt on a flat engine is not as scary as my tech buddies made it out to be.
Very good video! I had removed the gearbox and the flywheel for another repair on a GC8 so I saw straight away the problem of removing the crank pulley. To do so I fabricated a special tool which holds the pulley from the 4 holes and the same time the socket can reach the bolt. It was also designed as such that it can remove the pulley by just moving away the fans without removing the radiator and coolant.
Always rotate engine by hand before installing belt covers.
Also i recomend vacuum coolant filler tool. Makes life much easier, even in bmw m50 it takes out all the air pockets first try.
Amazing, Thanks to your video I was able to do my replacement on a 2009 Impreza El15 DOHC engine. Hurray!!
I’ll send you the
Best install video i have seen on youtube. Mad props to the tech for explaining everything as he went.
Please do more Subaru stuff!
99% of this is spot on. Only things I do differently is I don't really torque the idlers down (never had a problem with it) and I always rotate engine a few times to make sure my crank/cam sprockets line up again. If it's a manual I will pull tensioner pin and start the engine. If it's auto I will do at cooler lines to rad pull pin and then start it. It's just bad juju to me if I don't start the engine with cover off. It's just how I KNOW the engine won't grenade it's self.
From Puerto Rico, thanks fully. Your description was excellent.
Hands down the best video on youtube for subaru timing belt replacement
I did this job and this video helped alot, however I found a tool from a place called company 23 that will hold your drivers side cams in place while you do the job, really saved some time and helped me not be so nervous about doing this job
Riley, is yours a turbo model engine? I tried calling Company 23 and they said their tools only fit turbo models
@@SW-gl9jy yes its the dohc ej205 from 2002
I feel like replacing the oil pump is a must while in there too. That's just me though. Lol. That's what I want to do when I get in there.
My car has 230,000 miles on it now. Last time the head gaskets got changed was around 150,000 miles with the old owner.
I'd like to re do all the seals and other gaskets while I'm in there as well.
I'm a bit nervous cause this will be my first time ever even removing the engine from this car or any car. All my 'mechanic skills' comes from all the other jobs I've done with this car.
Videos like this help a lot. I'm spamming my brain with videos like this. I'm not doing the job either for a couple of months. Gotta get all the parts together first.
Videos like this help a lot. Thanks! Hopefully I can get to your level of expertise eventually, lol. Hopefully I don't fuck my car up either. 🤣🤣
I'm sold! i'm going to ship my car over from Malaysia now haha...
Awesome and super detailed goodness!
Great video. I really appreciate it when people take the time to walk through and explain how these type of things are done even though I’d still farm out this kind of job.
Cracking on with this tomoz. If I start it at 9am I should be done in time for breakfast at 9.15 👍👍
very good! Thanks to you net guys for helping us older shade tree guys on these newer vehicles!! Short vid for lots of info!! Vlad
Thanks for watching!
When aligning the driver side timing gears … does it mater which direction we turn the gears to align the markings?
What a good video. Doing this on my 18 sti, and the two screw driver trick I'm going to have to use cause I was having a pain in the ass with it
Did mine today. Thanks for the walk through. Great vid
Thank you for the video, I'm facing the prospect of needing to do this to my wrx and was wondering how difficult it would be to do myself. I talked with some people at car meets I go to with subarus of their own and they kept saying how you would have to take the engine out. I found that pretty ridiculous so good to know its possible without doing so.
You can use a clamp to hold the two drivers side cam gears together, makes the job a little easier and saves you the worry of screwing something up
Not in this case, he had to align them because they fell out of alignment.
3:30 - The crank pully has threaded holes in it which you use to attach a special tool to. This allows you to hold the pully (and crankshaft) stationary while you loosen the front crankshaft bolt.
The holes are clearly visible in the pully while they describe the backyard bodgers way of doing it without the correct tools.
You really don't need to use the tool. there's more than one way to skin a cat. if you want to make or purchase a tool to use once in a while go right ahead. there is nothing wrong with that method.
I liked the video and it was very good information. The only thing I would be hesitant to a do is out coper anti seize on those bolts since copper and aluminium are enemies because of the electrolysis between copper and aluminium and the aluminium is likely to get eaten out if there is any moisture at all present.
The sound of those cams spinning will forever haunt my nightmares.
Thats a perfect video. Thanks for skipping the non relevent in super fast mode and including torque specs and tips inc air bleeding in commentry.
I was getting very frustrated with my timing belt until I saw this video. Thanks a bunch. The only thing I would like to know is what to torque the crankshaft pully bolt to?
whenever you fill a cooling system it is always a good idea to put the heater on HOT. That way there is circulation through the heater circuit as well and that mighthelp get rid of air pockets as well.
jfv65 there's no valve for the heater on Subaru's it's always flowing.
No hot water valve. But the heat is a good idea cause if the heat is strong you no there is no air pocket and the pump is circulating the coolant properly and not having cavitation
Does that apply to older models? Pretty sure my 98 forester isn't that fancy
Ejs have very little issues with locking air in the system. I would usually have heat in a few minutes. If there wasn't heat in about 30 minutes shut the car off fir 15 minutes top off the radiator, they always seem to suck the air bubble through while cooling, that was primarily on the 10 and 11 Legacy and Outback with the bastard Ej.
Great production quality. One of the best how-to videos I've ever seen.
This guy is the man made it super simple
Great stuff, very useful. Don't think I'll get around to getting a scooby but still have learnt something.
Great tech! knows his stuff!
very helpful, very clear. Could not ask for better. Thank you
GREAT VIDEO! Please do the SOHC belt and head gaskets. They all leak. The struggle is real.
Can you provide a sohc kit name brand ,, that is not sub. Or gates please,
This is a great video series.
Thanks for doinv.
From great shop,
And great techs.
David Clark 5 star?
Benjamin Rhodes Search out the best brand of stop leak and screw that piece of crap and Subaru. That's their advise on cars under warranty. In order to limp em past warranty experation so Subaru can tell you...oooh Shit man! Sorry sir. Warranty is up. Looks like that will be at least $1,500. Yep. $1,500 every 100,000 miles for the rest of your Subaru ownership experience.
I've done this on my own cars before, the oil leak isn't pressurized oil just return to the pan from the heads. Drain the oil, clean the bottom of the head with brake clean let dry for an hour or so, make sure residual oil isn't leaking in which case clean again. If it's dry smear a nice thick bead of engine sealer along the bottom side of the head/block seam. Use your finger to smooth it out. Let it dry for 24 hours, fill with oil. I've stopped or at least slowed down some bad ones with good results
@@davidclark5138 if you're doing a 2.5L go with 2010 Legacy headgaskets, I only use Subaru never aftermarket. The 2010 used a 2 shim steel gasket instead of the synthetic gasket, I never saw one leak oil, I use them in all the jobs I do from home
Also make sure your heater is on full HOT so you don't get air bubbles while burping the cooling system at the end.
Great video, I'm not even a Subaru Guy but the detailed install was nice to watch!
I'm surprized to see that there were no timing belt guides. I really wanted to see how those are installed back (spacing and stuff). Also, there was no mention of the air bleeding of the timing belt tensioner. I saw that on a different video. This makes me question the necessity of doing that. Does it need air bleeding or not? Lastly, is it a good idea to wear fresh gloves when installing the new belt so as to not potentially expose the rubber on the belt to any grease? Just wondering.
as a rexy owner.... I will most definitely be saving this one in the repairs playlist for future reference :') pretty sure the belt is due very soon...
Love watching the pure Canadian content. I'm going to be doing my 04 XT's belt soon, and figured I should give this a watch. NVAuto was a pleasant treat too. I enjoyed seeing the types of tools Nam was using to complete the job. Electric ratchet > air ratchet.
Most videos I have seen the tech doesn't break the bolt by hand and then use the impact ..this tech did... also nice to see a quality digital torque wrench being used... great job... did the car have issues with the timing being off a tooth?
I've never done a subaru timing belt, but I've done on normal inline engines and before putting all the covers I rotate the crankshaft twice just to double check the marks again and in case there was some slack that I didn't notice
the technician is master 👏🏽 I love how he explain the steps ☺️ full mark this video
Nice tips and tricks in this video. Really helped me with my job. Thanks buds!
Thanks for the videos guys. It’s funny, the more my wife learns about her Subaru, the more open she is open to owning something with a small block Chevy haha.
Nice video makes it a lot easier to follow
Nam is a legend !!! #BossTech
Good job guy also should put up a list of tools and parts I liked the palm ratchet tool never knew there was such a tool
I am wanting to change my timing myself because $1400 is out of my price range. This video to me is the most informational video I have seen. What is the difficulty level of this procedure?
Thanks to everyone, Mainly the Asian brother for making this job very simple to do!
Thank you so much for your videos! Just did the timing belt on my 06 legacy and your video helped me out a lot! Thanks again! Cheers!
Glad we could help!
Hey is your engine an EJ204?
Thank you for your polite explanation!
I will try to replace the timing belt tomorrow!
how did it go?
@@bobbybelcher9097 I was able to exchange it!
I’ll end up having to do this on a SOHC Forester soon; if you did a how-to on those I’d appreciate a link.
Great video thanks. So I’m guessing don’t use any loctite on the idler pulleys? What is the torque for the crank pulley bolt please? Thank you.
That was a great video guys, really liked the format
Just fyi for anyone with an auto trans. You can stick 2 extensions into the crank pully (there are 4 holes you can see, i forget what size but I think it is 3/8") but once you put 2 extensions into 2 holes that are next to each other, get a pry bar or something solid you can stick between the 2 extensions and have someone hold that in place to lock up the crank pully then you can get the bolt out with a ratchet and cheater bar.
Great instructional but I can’t believe you didn’t turn the motor over by hand at least a couple times to be certain the cams lined back up and tooth counts stay the same. Maybe it’s just me but I always do that. I can rest easier knowing their wasn’t some strange slack in the belt that threw things off before cranking it up.
I have an '05 Legacy GT that I did the timing belt, tensioner, pulley's, and water pump on at only 65k miles as the car was 10 years old at the time and Subaru calls for it to be done at that time interval regardless of mileage. At that low mileage (40k miles below what Subaru specifies the TB to be done at) one of the pulleys already sounded terrible, like it was full of sand. I wouldn't have wanted that thing in there another 100 miles, much less 40k!
Nevertheless I found the job not too daunting. It was made easier by the easy access right in the front. I once did a Toyota Corolla that I thought was way harder than this one because of the tb location. I also used the Gates kit but opted for an Aisin water pump (Made in Japan) instead as it was only around $25 more.
Another thing I didn't see you guys do in this video was use loctite on the pulley bolts. It's probably not necessary but it's good insurance imo.
Awesome video. I think I will take this job on my self considering how detailed it was. Is that gates belt easily accessible in the aftermarket world?
Subis are so easy to work on, one of the reasons i love them
Like replacing the spark plugs? I never needed to remove the battery, intake, and windshield washer reservoir to replace spark plugs on my other cars. I just--get this--removed the spark plugs.
I hope that is sarcasm
i know the struggle, replaced my spark plugs a while ago
Easy for the guy with tools and space... ever replace an oil pan gasket on a Subaru WRX/STI!? Asshole.
I think Subaru's are easy to deal with. Like any car, not having the right tools makes it hard.
Wow great video!!! Very well instructed and a lot of good tips and quirks only someone that's worked on these engine for a long time like Nam can tell u
Excellent video, gives enough confidence who want to try it DIY
Made it look so easy, now I want to buy a subaru and change the timing belt!