The Equalette
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- This is a lesser known anchor that I've seen a couple of people using, some folks seem to swear by it but I think it's not quite all it's cracked up to be.
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The equalette I know is a completely different anchor
This anchor is called a "big cordalette" by Chris, and is great for big walls when getting four pieces per anchor is preferable (hauling, hugging, etc.). I think you hit the nail on the head when you said it's mostly for big wall applications.
From my understanding the equalette is made with a continuous loop of cord, and uses clove hitches to attach them to a carabiner. I've never heard of this anchor being called the equalette.
I have doee this for 40 years. Not why people think it is so new. But it is only a tool. It is something ti know and use when it is approperate. It is not something you have to use every time.
I like this way of tying because you can shorten more easy than untieing and retire a double fisherman. I keep my cord tied slings long for extended anchors, personal tethers, natural features. Fine tuning the length makes the carabiner a knot not drag on the rock. This is mostly a top rope application.
From my understanding an equalette is one continuous piece of cord with two doubled arms. There are two limiter knots separating the master point, and allowing for equalization. To tie off to anchors, and adjust length clove hitches are used.
This is not an equalette. This is a "webolette" tied with accessory cord. It's called a webolette because Mountain Tools popularized this anchor system with their "webolette" which was a single piece of webbing with two sewn loop ends. An "equalette" is a cordalette with a couple of stopper knots that you tie into the individual anchor points using clove hitches.
This video shows a proper equalette: ua-cam.com/video/qsz1NxfYj_8/v-deo.html
Why don't you just tie another knot to create a shelf?
So its basically a cordolette with more options? Why would it be worse then the classic cordolette?
Hey, I watch a lot of your stuff and I have to say that I appreciate not only watching a climber that is a good teacher but one that has a ton knowledge and real world experience as well. This seems a rare combination in the climbing education world.
I would like to know what you think about or if you can share your experience with using knots for fall protection.
I know there are areas that do not allow gear and there are a couple videos of some dudes using only knots and slings to climb some legit difficult routes. Very cool.
I plan on trying it out myself, backed up next to bolted clips, of course but want some more advanced opinions.
Please advise.
Hey man, I haven't climbed in places that only allow knots for protection. As far as I know the only place that has it as a mandatory rule is the Chec, but there could be plenty of other places. Really the knots are the same thing as placing stoppers, with the added element of the material being able to mold to the placement more than a metal nut- which can both be a blessing and a curse for the strength of the placement. The best thing to do is to go out and practice placing the knots and taking little mock falls on them with a top rope backup to really learn what you can do with them and how they differ to what you're use to using. It sounds like you're already planning on doing that so all I can say is go for it and let me know how it turns out. Sorry I couldn't be more help than that, especially after you gave me all the kind words haha, have fun climbing out there!
@@ryantilley9063 I am going to try it on some small cracks and see how comfortable it feels - I have to pick up some more static rope though so when I do, I will let you know.
At about 4:00 you show an overhand on a bight to "eat up more material" - shorten the anchor. You then clipped the top loops to stop them potentially sliding through the overhand and undoing the master point.
(1) Is sliding through that likely? I can see that if you loaded the top (back) of the overhand, without a 'biner in the master point, that the overhand rolling and undoing is possible. But you are (I think) talking about loading the master point and having the loops at the top coming through. Seems quite unlikely to me, if you properly dress and tighten the overhand in the first place.
(2) Could you clip into the master point and also clip into the two loops at the top of the overhand to prevent any rollover / slide through, and therefore use both the master point and the top loops as places to attach stuff? I.e., could that configuration give you a shelf (those top loops) as well as the master point? I can see that weighting the 'shelf' in that scenario might load the overhand in an improper way, but a clipped master point would stop that part of the knot getting pulled back through the overhand. Weighting the master point would be a pretty standard application, and only clipping those top loops would be needed to make it totally secure (I think).
I'd appreciate you thoughts on this - thanks!
What is the definition of the shelf of the anchor?
The shelf of the anchor is when you clip all the legs of the anchor above or below the knot, here's a link to an article that shows all the different parts of an anchor: americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2016/6/27/the-masterpoint-the-shelf-the-components-anchor-anatomy-in-action
Dont make videos on a windy day