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Ryan Tilley
United States
Приєднався 29 лип 2018
I started this channel for a number of reasons:
1. To show the cool adventures I go on and share them with people that may not be able to commit the time or money to having the same. As well as now I can go back and watch videos to better remember some of the cool adventures I've done.
2. To help inspire people to get out and experience nature in whatever way they want to or feel comfortable doing.
3. To make instructional videos based on my experience that cover certain areas that don't already have to many videos on the subject.
4. To help spread the word about organizations or events that could be applicable to the subject of my channel.
#1245353
1. To show the cool adventures I go on and share them with people that may not be able to commit the time or money to having the same. As well as now I can go back and watch videos to better remember some of the cool adventures I've done.
2. To help inspire people to get out and experience nature in whatever way they want to or feel comfortable doing.
3. To make instructional videos based on my experience that cover certain areas that don't already have to many videos on the subject.
4. To help spread the word about organizations or events that could be applicable to the subject of my channel.
#1245353
Climbing cams blowout
I've been doing a lot of gear guides lately, so here's another one! This video talks all about my collection of cams I use for rock and alpine guiding/ climbing. I also talk about some older gear that I don't use as much anymore.
Book a trip with me on my website: www.ryantilleymountainguide.com/
patron: www.patreon.com/RyanTilleyClimbingandAdventures
Instagram: rtillson_
Book a trip with me on my website: www.ryantilleymountainguide.com/
patron: www.patreon.com/RyanTilleyClimbingandAdventures
Instagram: rtillson_
Переглядів: 943
Відео
let's talk about simul- rappelling
Переглядів 2 тис.9 годин тому
I've been hearing a lot of Simul- Rappelling lately, especially on the internet. So this video was kind of a long time coming, hopefully this will help a few people stay safer out in the mountains.
Ropes for alpine guiding
Переглядів 59316 годин тому
To piggy back off of my last video about ropes, here are a little bit of thoughts on the considerations for the ropes I use while guiding in the alpine environment. This includes ropes I'll use for ice, alpine rock, and mountaineering. Book a trip with me on my website: www.ryantilleymountainguide.com/ patron: www.patreon.com/RyanTilleyClimbingandAdventures Instagram: rtillson_
Thoughts on guiding with the Neox
Переглядів 1,5 тис.19 годин тому
I saw some folks talking about how they could fit the new Neox into guiding applications. Mostly in the single pitch realm, but also in other forms of climbing, so since I've had one for the last month now I thought it would be a good topic to make a video discussing what I like to use the whole Grigri family for. Book a trip with me on my website: www.ryantilleymountainguide.com/ patron: www.p...
Ropes for rock guiding
Переглядів 1,3 тис.14 днів тому
Since I have a lot more newer guides watching my videos I thought I could make some content for them, and maybe this will help direct some recreationalists to considerations for ropes they are looking to buy for their own climbing. Book a trip with me on my website: www.ryantilleymountainguide.com/ patron: www.patreon.com/RyanTilleyClimbingandAdventures Instagram: rtillson_
Kiwi Coils
Переглядів 1,3 тис.Місяць тому
I made a video a while back about this topic, but I wasn't really happy with how it turned out so here's a remake with some new preferences I've developed since the last video anyway. Book a trip with me on my website: www.ryantilleymountainguide.com/ patron: www.patreon.com/RyanTilleyClimbingandAdventures Instagram: rtillson_
Tube style belay devices
Переглядів 3,3 тис.Місяць тому
I use these things every day I go out rock climbing, ice climbing, and in the alpine. Me being me, I've acquired quite a bit of these things over the years and I have quite a bit of thoughts about the performance of these devices. This is probably just the first of a few of these videos too...
Petzl Grigri Comparisons
Переглядів 2,8 тис.Місяць тому
A while back, Petzl gave me three belay devices to make a comparison video about. I've been using the Grigri and Grigri plus for years now, but had to give a little bit of time to the new Neox. After a solid two weeks of testing here's the first of a few videos I'm planning to make on these devices. This is a primer video to talk a bit about the evolution of Grigri's, different designs, differe...
Complete Ice axe blowout
Переглядів 1,2 тис.2 місяці тому
The third and final pairing of my big three- boots, crampons, and now ice axes. These are tools that I always bring into the mountains with me and I feel that they all deserve their own lengthy video talking about good quivers to have and where one could best employ a specific tool. Book a trip with me on my website: www.ryantilleymountainguide.com/ patron: www.patreon.com/RyanTilleyClimbingand...
Why I switched from La Sportiva to Scarpa boots
Переглядів 3,6 тис.3 місяці тому
Why I switched from La Sportiva to Scarpa boots
Mountain footwear the complete guide
Переглядів 2,2 тис.4 місяці тому
Mountain footwear the complete guide
first look at High Mountain Gear taco portaledge
Переглядів 7004 місяці тому
first look at High Mountain Gear taco portaledge
Talking point: belaying off of the anchor remake
Переглядів 2,4 тис.4 місяці тому
Talking point: belaying off of the anchor remake
Tricks to take your clove hitch off of the anchor
Переглядів 2,2 тис.4 місяці тому
Tricks to take your clove hitch off of the anchor
Quick tip bundeling your crampons together
Переглядів 1,2 тис.5 місяців тому
Quick tip bundeling your crampons together
Belay escape reaction Beta Breakdown ep. 5
Переглядів 1,2 тис.7 місяців тому
Belay escape reaction Beta Breakdown ep. 5
As in how and why they blowout?
i do the same thing with my yellow totem, racking it on a gray crab to match my 0.4
Yeah, what's up with the little yellow one? And the 2 being orange!
@@user-pr5tx9ep4m I think the yellow is close to an alien yellow? Not sure, haven't used aliens
@@Friendfox Ok. Yeah, I always wondered if there was some logic for breaking what seems like the "standard" color sequence.
my guy is stacked up. I enjoy ur videos and i thank you for them i learn more and enjoy them and appreciate your time and effort into making these videos
I think the z4s have made the c4s obsolete .75 and smaller. They are so much better.
Totems have become very common in the northeast, especially in the gunks. They seem more solid in irregular and horizontal placements than more traditional cams.
That's the Groove, not the Crocodile ;)
@@zeruel857 oh crap, got the name wrong! I changed the title but can’t change what I said haha.
@@ryantilley9063 wish you could give us your honest opinion about the Alpine Up. Here in Italy and I think also in Europe in general, is generally appreciated by a lot of people
Reading Andy Kirkpatricks' books gives you a good idea of how often pros nearly kill themselves (or go all the way) from using techniques like simul-rapping... and its pretty often according to Andy!!
I'm sick of this myth that simul rapping isn't faster. I feel like its always told by people who have tried it a handful of times and never taken the time to get very experienced with it. A big caveat to this is that simul rapping should be done on grigris and NOT tethered together. They are faster to load, easier to go hands free, and safer to rappel quickly on. I've done a lot of big route climbing, and with a dialed partner, I feel simul rapping is easily 1.5 times faster. Both being able to manage the rope on the way down, separating tasks as soon as you at the anker, and not having to deal with backup devices speeds things up dramatically. I don't think its for every one, and I was anti simul rapping for years, but with 100s of long route under my belt using several methods of rappelling, there is no question to me that simuling is way faster.
Simul rappels are nice because both you and your partner can have grigris and dont need an ATC or to fix the rope. The severity of one person or both people dying to me are the same and are both unacceptable. Tie knots and simul rappeling is really no more dangerous than a regular rap. If you are worried your anchor will rip on body weigth of 2 people, you dont have an anchor. And using old tat is way more risky than a simul rappel.
> If you are worried your anchor will rip on body weigth of 2 people, you dont have an anchor. That's not how safety factors work. Reducing the safety margin does change the risk that something bad will happen. > Tie knots and simul rappeling is really no more dangerous than a regular rap. The video went into a few reasons why this is not the case.
@@bobbbobins you realize that people just hanging out at an even semi-hanging anchor are going to have 2x body weight on the anchor. If you are seriously concerned your anchor will rip with 2 people on it, you should be building a better anchor or downclimbing. The failure mode of simul rapping is that if one person goes off the end of the rope, the other will also fall because of the counter balance. The whole points about ropes rubbing don't make any sense because in a traditional double strand rap, you are relying on the loop of both strands as a singular continuous piece. If one side were to abrade or be cut, it would have the same failure mode. Simul rappelling is not faster but it does making rapping on grigri nice when both partners are only carrying grigris without having to fix the rope. I have gotten ropes stuck by blocking knots before and those are not fun.
@@connordobsonclimb the rope getting cut certainly does matter. The recent tests about ropes getting cut all show that the amount of weight is a big factor in how likely a rope is to get cut.
@@connordobsonclimb why would both climbers only carry grigris? Wouldn’t 1 grigri and 1 tube style device be lighter? (Or, if weight isn’t so critical, 1 tube style device and 2 grigris?)
Really interesting video man. you mentioned doing alpine rappels differently to standard multi pitch rappels, that could make a cool video idea
I don't like simuling, yes because of the danger, but I just find it uncomfortable being tethered to someone else, trying to go the same speed, meanwhile you're messing with your end of the rope while your just pulling your tethered partner around the cliff, or vice versa. I have gotten into arguments in Potrero Chico about time saving etc etc. I prefer standard ops rappelling (stacking your partner on top is great if they're less experienced), and with GLOVES I zip down pretty freaking fast, way faster than in a simul. Thanks for the video, Ryan.
I believe in Sedona or Flagstaff(can't really remember) there is a canyon that has a natural bridge that doesn't seem to be bolted(could be wrong) and it looks like the only way down is to simul, maybe there's another technique, I'm not really sure. I've only done it twice while rock climbing, and it seems like a fun party trick, but doesn't really give me the warm and fuzzys.
Some of the older climbs in the Needles in the Black Hills of SD also require this type of simul rappel, due to the lack of an anchor. I don’t think that’s what we are talking about here. Ryan is discussing people choosing to simul rappel of an anchor, to save time.
The time saved argument has always been silly to me while thinking about multipitch rappels -- if you're not super slow, a 100ft rap is like 30 seconds. The vast majority of the time is spent re-rigging the rap at the next station (pulling rope through etc), which I would argue is made possibly slower by simul rappelling because two people arriving at the same spot at the same time is likely more finiciky than one guy.
I love simu-rapping but only on solid bolts and it's just for fun haha, not to save time. Seems like doing it the safe way doesn't save any time anyway. Tho once it did come in handy cuz our rope was a few feet too short (we were hoping the rope stretch will cover). So we end up lowering me to the next anchor, put my partner on belay, and he lead climbs down from my strand of rope.
agree with all the points you make tho
Completely agree, a few years ago I had a cam stolen while two simul climbers passed me and a friend on the last pitch of royal arches. In an attempt to catch them on the repel down we were simul rapping, both of us having been told and believing it was faster than a normal multipitch rap, we maybe gained 1 minute worth of ground on them as they rappelled normally. In no way was it worth all the risk we put on ourselves and we both agreed afterwards there’s no sense in trying to do that to save time. The only place I see it useful or have done it since is on extremely chossy routes to avoid the above climber knocking rocks on the fist person rapping. Of the routes I’ve been on 99% are clean enough, and I see it obsolete everywhere else. I completely understand if that’s still not worth the application but I’d like to hear your thoughts on that. Great video cheers
@@vangough1770 nice, that totally sucks that those guys stole your cam, what assholes! To that point about the chossy rock, I think it’s focusing in on the wrong thing. If you’re rappelling in a chossy environment then you should avoid simul- rappelling at all costs. A person on the anchor above can avoid knocking rocks down on you, and if they can’t you shouldn’t climb with them. But if a rock does get knocked down the main issue is it could cut the rope not just hit you. If the rock hits you that could be very bad, but you could still survive- maybe you get knocked unconscious, but you could quite possibly still get a rescue crew to helicopter you off the mountain. If the rock chops your rope you very well might just die. If we take that situation to simul- rappelling: now you have way more force on the rope, and both of you are on one strand. The more taught the rope is, the more likely it tends to be cut over a sharp edge or with the impact of a rock. So if you’re rappelling in a more rock fall prone area the likelihood of the rope getting full chopped is higher and now both of you will die if the rope gets chopped. Also in my experience, more often than not the rope is the thing that causes rock fall more than your partner (unless you truly have a really shitty partner.) I rappel in alpine environments all the time with newer climbers and if I tell them to be carful about kicking rocks off, they don’t knock any rocks on me. Part of this is also choosing or knowing the best route down the mountain too, that can be a big factor, but you shouldn’t be making your own route down anyway unless it’s an emergency. TLDR: you’re right that you don’t have another person up there to knock rocks down, but you still have a lot of rock fall possibilities anyway, you still have way less margin of error, and if you make one mistake you and your friend still die.
@@ryantilley9063 this totally makes sense, I think I’ve been paranoid about accidentally hurting a partner by knocking rocks on to them, but risking a climber getting hit at an anchor station is definitely a better situation than a complete system failure. Thanks for the in-depth reply
The "safer" notion might be from the alpine loose-rock scenario - better to be together if knocking rocks down (I suspect this argument assumes no parties below). Obviously idiotic to extrapolate this to "safer w/o qualifications".
I've been hearing more about that from folks, I don't know where this idea came from that simul rappelling is safer in an alpine environment. For sure loose rock is a hazard in climbing, and it can have serious consequences if a rock hits you, but in my experience the person above isn't the main cause of rock fall on the repeller below. It's almost always the rope knocking rocks off, and that is usually from the person that's rappelling moving left to right. Also, a lot of folks that are descending alpine routes are "on- sighting" the descent because in the alpine you often rappel a different way than you climb up. If think it's a million times more dangerous to try to figure out your descent while in this tenuous balance with your partner. It would be one thing if it was a sport multi pitch when you're rappelling down the same way you climb up, but it's just adding so much risk when you don't know the way down, and that amount of risk far surpasses the small possibility of your partner kicking a rock off. Sorry if that sounded preachy, this stuff gets me fired up! This would be good topic for a quick follow up video about why this specific idea doesn't make sense. Thanks for your comment!
Your point on the rope and anchor forces, and increased rope cut potential is well made. Is there a scenario that grigri simul rapping with knots would be the best option?
Most of the time I hear about a simul-repel is from accidents... that sounds like plenty to me. Cheers
Would you be able to show us how you organize your gear?
Ya I could make a video about that, I feel like my room is pretty messy still without a real rhyme or reason to anything, but I could make a quick video about it.
Scarpa is cheap compared tp lasportiva hence reason.. but some international guidr says scarpa boots front toe are weaks.😂😂
Linus gear tips
Chairman who??
Chairman Meow, he runs the place
Closing in on 10K...
Thanx for the video!
You videos are great Ryan. Good shit bro keep up the good work 👍🏼👍🏼
Love the cats are they siblings? I rock that same shirt too. I’ve yet to try the Neox but I’ve been told they chatter.
Ya the two cats are brother and sister. The Neox does make a chatter sound when taking in slack, it's a little hard to get used to, but it only makes that sound with that one thing. The rest of the time it's pretty quiet.
Nice vid! I always have the grigri+ in lead mode as I thought the toprope one was a gimmick for beginner. I will start using this mode in multipitch settings :) By the way, do you find the anti-panic function inconvenient when lowering someone from above?
It's totally inconvenient, but I do the same thing where I let the anti-panic engage then I keep pulling the leaver back without a reset, it lowers like a normal Grigri after that.
Was waiting for this review. The practicality of your reviews are what make em a lot more valuable than some others on here
I’m a fan of using my grigri+ to belay from the top in multi-pitch settings. It’s much easier to pull rope through the device compared to an ATC in guide mode. It also speeds up certain self rescue situations.
Whats the cats name?
That one is named Oliver, the other cat that you see more often is Sky.
Also, get yourself a flip fuel device and you will never have part filled canisters again
MSR do a folding stainless steel gas cylinder support legs, and better still, they do the low down, which is a remote option with fold out legs and a gas line, so it’s really low and stable👌🏼
What diameter/rope would you carry for rappeling off of alpine scrambles. I have been using a 40 meter sterling marathon 8.8 half rope and I am looking to lighten up. Thanks for the great video!
I think that rope you already have is pretty good. Are you talking soloing on the way up and only using the rope on the way down? If that's what you're going for you could check out the Petzl Pur line, It's 6mm and has a strength of 15 kN. Pair that with an ATC alpine guide and you can save weight, space, and still get down whatever you want.
@@ryantilley9063 yes that is what i am doing. Solo non technical peaks in my local range. Some have alot of exposure or are just safer to rap off rather than downclimb. I will take a look at the petzel line you mentioned. Thanks again for all the info!
"Slippery 5.9" Thanks for describing the exits.
Great video. Thanks for sharing. Two comments: 1. Mammut actually doesn't product ropes anymore. They outsources rope production to Teufelsberger in Austria. Teufelsberger also produces their own ropes under the Maxim brand. If you watch the Hard is Easy episode on cut resistant ropes with Mammut, you can see the R&D engineer from Teufelsberger who was working on the rope. I don't want to say Mammut ropes are bad. Teufelsberger is an excellent company. 2. It's super funny how you call these 9.8 ropes bulky. In Germany, these are the standard topes you will see at sport crags. Often routes are short (below 15-20 m) so weight isn't a concern and working routes on a skinny 9.0 rope will destroy your rope very quickly.
I placed a black totem for the first tie and it's a huge difference between that a similar sized cams from other makers
The names are so confusing and makes buying the one I want confusing. I want the one that’s supposed to be the 3 (the one you mainly use) but when trying to find it it’s always the grigri 2. Do you have a link you could send me to the correct one? Amazon has one called the grigri 3 but then the reviews say it’s the 2 or the plus
Here are the links: Neox (the newest device): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/NEOX This is the device I give to my clients and new lead belayers. Grigri Plus (some people may call this the Grigri three): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/GRIGRI-PLUS This is the model that I have on my harness most of the time while guiding. Grigri (this is the same as an old Grigri 2 - the Grigri 2 isn't technically made anymore, but some companies may still be selling their old stock, if you can get the newer model which will just be called the Grigri): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/GRIGRI This is the model I give to new top rope belayers and the one I like using as a sport climbing belay device personally. Hope that helps!
@@ryantilley9063hey! Thanks for the response but I was referring to the one at 15:30 When searching I was trying to find the 3rd generation but kept getting linked to the grigri 2 (2nd gen)
A ginger Yeti.😂
You need to shave. You look like a Yeti.
What makes this any different than any other atc?
Just like DMM pivot the rotating point gets closer the rope which makes it easier to lower
Thanks Ryan, as a guide guiding guides, the guides you've generated as guidance for guides have been invaluable for us aspiring guides. P.s. Just wanted to keep the "heh guides for guides" thing rolling.
That was a great video. As usual, great explanation, and in great detail. Definitely going to copy your way of doing this 👍🏻👍🏻🇳🇴
I’m not a professional, but if you don’t mind. What kind of rope would you recommend for scrambling, length and diameter?
That can be kind of a tough question because it does depend on your route that you're going for. Mostly I would use a 30-40m triple rated rope (if you're going through a lot of rock terrain.) If I have to do a few rappels then I may have to have a longer rope to be able to deal with that, possibly go up to a 60m. My favorate rope for something like this is the Mammut Alpine Sender 8.7 dry. It's thin enough to be light and durable enough to deal with the rock scrambles and terrain belays. Really you're trying to get away with the least amount of rope possible, but still be safe. If I'm walking off of the route then I'm in the 30-40m range and with rappelling most often I have 60m. Gaining a quiver of three or four ropes can be helpful with selecting the right one.
@@ryantilley9063 Thank you very much for the explanation. That helps me out a lot. ATB from Norway 🇳🇴
Do you keep track of how many falls a rope has taken? I see ropes that say they can handle so many falls and I was wondering how one can tell if we don’t keep track.
My understanding is that all those ratings are based on what they consider ‘UIAA falls’, which is like Factor 1.5. It’s hard to equate that to the average lead fall - probably impossible. This is a guess, but one F1.5 fall probably stresses the rope the same as 40+ F0.1 falls, which is the most common on sport. For myself, if there is a truly massive fall, I just pinch through the tie-in end of the rope and where the rope pivoted around the protection that caught them. Keeping track of the number of falls seems super unnecessary… just check them regularly and keep them clean
There's no such thing as "a rope can handle n falls". Perhaps you are confusing it with UIAA rated falls which is a test standard
This is a good topic for a video and one I haven't talked about yet, but in short I don't keep track of how many falls my rope has taken. Part of that is my ropes wear differently since I manly climb in the alpine and on long routes. Since my ropes aren't catching a bunch of lead falls I look for different things. The number of UIAA rated falls marked on the package and on the end cap of your rope is not at all the maximum amount of falls a rope can hold. You can literally fall hundreds of times on a rope before you have to retire it! The best thing you can do I watch your rope for signs of wear and retire it if you're at all worried about the integrity. $200 for a new rope is nothing compared to a hospital bill!
what gas station has that?
I've seen them at Eddie's World and Lee Vining
@@micah7516 Eddie World? as in that creepy gas station on the way to Vegas?? I'm guessing that Mobil station on Tioga pass would carry this
Yep you got it right, I bought these from the large gas station at the start of the Tioga Pass road. I forget the name of it now, but it's the obvious one right off the highway on the Lee Vining side.
very clear, thanks!
This is such a rich and fantastic resource. Thank you for making it and uploading it :)
Thanks Ryan! Can you use the connecticut tree hitch with something with less fiction than a tree or a boulder.?Lets say two rappell rings a foot apart at the top of a climb.
Ya you can, the friction mainly comes from the carabiner not what it's wrapped around.
Thanks for reviewing these. All talk is about Petzl and BD for ATCs but I always wonder how’s the competition. Mammut has a cool steel one as well.
ya I have that mammut one with the steel, it's really good!
@@ryantilley9063 Thanks for the reply, been wanting to try it for a while. I assume it lasts longer than a Reverso with the steel inserts.
the purple one is dreamy😍
I always have two Prusiks (5-6mm cord) and at least one cordelette of 6-8m/ca. 20ft. on me and I never ever use dynema/alpine draw for Prusik or anywhere I have to include a knot in the system. The melting point of dynema is just way too low to use as a friction hitch.. for me at least.😊