Відео

Did you trued with neox and another backup? I mean, is the neox capable to run up with you as a micro traxion? Or you can manage it like a Grigri? Thanks 🙏🏻🙋🏻‍♂️

hey ryan, just got this one as my first descender device, although i’ve noticed in only a few rappels a rough contact with the caribiner, do u happen to know what carabiner should be used ideally ? or what do beal recommend? i wouldn’t know where to find that info. thanks man

Being an OLD died in the wool Yosemite climber, I personally use the single bowline Yosemite finish, since about 1973. Tied correctly and snugged down, it does not loosen. Grade VI's in a day, or for that matter tied day 1 at the bottom of El Cap and untied 4 or 5 days later, no problem. TIED and snugged up correctly! BTW, the double bowline with Yosemite finish BITD was known in some circles as the Kor Knot. As in Layton Kor. The figure 8 is perfectly fine too, and easier to visually verify. That's why we taught the figure 8 at the Yosemite Mountaineering School in the '80's and '90's.

Ice screw plugs... the blue ice are nice- both steel and lite versions. Petzl are attrocious, my friend lost theirs first time out.

Wow, now I know why my rope has so many twists.

While you're at master points, something I think is less well known and covered is how to correctly clip the shelf to retain redundancy should one of the pieces/bolts fail. I've seen multiple instances of people clipping around one of the legs of the anchor instead of through each of the legs, for personal anchoring no less.

Would like to know the data on how many full or partial anchor failures are as a result of parts of the anchor being actually "cut". My guess would be almost zero. As opposed to gear placement/rock quality/old/poorly installed bolts, which is probably a much greater factor. Not denying it's definitely a good practice to clip all strands on a typical pre-equalized anchor, just don't know if that "redundancy" is the redundancy worth caring that much about. (this is a question, not a critique).

Ryan, there’s are some additional nuance I’d love to see you cover. Something must remain clipped into the masterpoint until you’re off the anchor. If you PA into the shelf an belay off the masterpoint there is a risk of messing this up. Now, if you have 4 strands in the masterpoint, maybe there is a reason to only clip two - you could use two to belay and two to PA, but is this a good practice? If you leave two clipped when you remove the belay device, I agree that it’s extremely unlikely the other two will back out, and even if they do, I think you still have a safe, redundant anchor. I’m uneasy about it, but my reasoning suggests its ok?

Very good video. If you think about it carefully, you can figure out how to clip each type of anchor. The problem of course, is that our brains don’t work that way, and we don’t (usually) take the time to think it through thoroughly, so it’s easy to make a mistake. I certainly had to do a double take the first time I saw a quad anchor, and saw they only clipped some of the strands. (My frame of reference was a sliding X or fixed knot anchor).

For qauds on TR Could you clip each clip to two of there own strands

That situation at 09:00, the reason for adding the notch, happens when the device is breaking and the cam is lifted, leaving enough space at the back for the rope to slip through (somehow).

Two ppl can clip two different pairs of strands so that on the belay ledge there is a little room to wiggle without jostling each other

For quads on TR, I like to clip biner A on strand 1+2, and biner B on strand 3+4 hahaha

Great quick video!

My interpretation of clipping two is that they’re leaving the other 2 free for their partner to clip the other two/a belay device. Not sure why one would clip three though.

There is an informal meet up climbing instructor in the Las Vegas area who insists on putting a magic x like twist in a loop of a quad. I told him there is no need for that but there is the right way and the wrong way and that guys way. It is kind of curious how a lot of climbers can be really inflexible about doing something their way because they are sure it is the safest way which may or may not be the case.

You mention the rock interfering with the gate for the bolt side, what’s your thoughts with the two that are opposite and opposed on the rope side? I’ve found that’s pretty common, and sometimes I choose to face both gates out, away from the rock, when I know that one of them would otherwise be rubbing against the rock the whole time. I know I am sacrificing the opposite and opposed redundancy, but I still have 2 lockers, and I believe the less likelihood of one of the gates rubbing back and forth against the rock and potentially coming unlocked warrants it. I guess a better system would be to extend the master point so both of the rope biners aren’t rubbing against rock, but sometimes it’s not possible on slab climbs, or I don’t have that much material with me. So this is the option I chose. Hope you are doing well, cheers.

Great video with a simple and concise explanation. I can admit that my first anchor was similar to the one you demonstrated with two loops hanging down, and I clipped the one as I didn't understand why I saw different clipping in other videos (quad anchors). Of course since then I have learned about the reasoning for not clipping all strands in the quad vs a simple 2 loop anchor, but it's a very important point to understand for newer climbers. Just because we do something in one situation, does not mean that it transfers over to others. Understanding our systems and practice (to hone the skill physically and make it muscle memory) is a key tool to our safety in the vertical.

appreciate it!

nice video man, can you try the rock empire belt equip?

Great video man, I've been climbing a few years in the gym and started climbing out side and it's time for me to start building a trad rack, was debating carrying a grigri and atc, or just the giga jul, I think I'll be going with the jul, also thanks for going back into the comments to answer someone about the teeth damaging the sheath

The magical black totem placement @ 8:13

Hi, what's your Ribelle tech size and G5 size? I've heard that for the same size, Scarpa is a bit smaller.

When did you guys climb the route?

Is aid climbing Big Walls common in the US?

Great video diving into a topic that isnt really discussed in nuance, particularly the pros and cons of the device. I almost gave up on the Reverso in guide mode due to difficulty belaying before i realized my 9.8 rope that had gotten stiff and dirty was 10 times harder to pull than a supple 9.2. I personally still find guide mode on the gri gri to be noticeably more comfortable on belay, regardless of the rope. I think its due to its greater efficiency of action through the device. On days i want to pare down the rack, i will take just the atc to save weight as I carry it regardless

Thanks for sharing man

Exactly the refresher I needed before my Lake City trip. Thanks!

why doesn't anyone use just blocker (prusik) knots?

With a single rope use a grigri. With double ropes, mostly alpine routes use the Reverso. The Reverso can rappel down two ropes, the grigri can't. Grigro is easier to lower if you are working a difficult route and falling a lot.

Why does he call the Reverso an ATC throughout the video? They are both belay devices of maunfatured by different companies. I didn't notice an ATC inbthe video.

Thanks for the information, Ryan. This is super helpful. For double boots, would you say that Scarpa's inner boot is a lot thinner than La Sportiva's? I was considering switching my Phantom 6000 HD's inner boot with La Sportiva G2 Evo's. Any thoughts on this? Thanks!

Just got into mountaineering, going on a crevasse rescue course and three day intro course on mount baker in July, your channel has become my bible - thank you sir

why did you remove the rubber stopper on the rope side?

I really like Scarpa because my feet are wide and La Sportiva always tend to be on the narrow side but it looks like Scarpa's manufacturer processes are very slow and they have a lot of issues to restock. Therefore, for my first 8000m mountain Manaslu I chose La Sportiva Olympus Mons and I didn't regret my decision, they were very comfy and warm all the way up to the top! Never felt any cold how excellent their isolation is. As my Scarpa Zodiac Plus already wore out I was also looking for the new approach shoe and I picked up La Sportiva Aequilibrium ST GTX and they are awesome too , not only as an approach shoe but for long distance hiking too and in European Alps you can use them for the mid-level climbing as well. So from Scarpa I was left with Ribelle Tech 3.0 HD only with which I climbed Mont Blanc but when using them in Bolivian Andes , they already didn't perform well and my feet were cold so I will now be more La Sportiva guy.

Hello! How should I get into mountaineering around here in the PNW?

What are your thoughts on the radicals being the only touring boot in someone's boot quiver? If you didn't have the carbon blacklights, would you feel comfortable with the radical pros driving your helios and your other skis as your one dedicated touring boot? Do you find it to be too stiff and heavy for longer, bigger days, and you need the blacklights in your boot quiver? Thanks!

A locker left intentionally unlocked may lock itself due to vibrations ;)

Doesn’t Totems somewhat replace the need for offset cams?

I like the Ocun Weebee Bigwall. Good for organization of gear trad climbing. Not too big and heavy.

Looks super fun!

Really great video. Thx! I have a buddy who just automatically uses 2x quickdraws, simply because that is what he was learned once and it is easy (he likes easy, while I am definitely more on the paranoid side 😅). Now I have a bit more understanding about when it is a bomber anchor and when something else might be the better choice, we can talk about it and both learn.

@7:05 You say "this isn't opposite and opposed" but, based on your later description of what opposite and opposed is, those two carabiners *are* opposite and opposed, right? (Notice that if you keep the rope clipped in to the two lower carabiners, and swap the two top carabiners between the two anchor bolts, you'll be in the correct "gates out" configuration.) I guess we could say that, under tension, the dogbones move the carabiners out of the "opposite and opposed" orientation --- with "gates in" rotating them out of orientation in a less safe way, and "gates out" rotating them out of orientation in a safer way. Maybe there's a better way to describe how to orient carabiners than "opposite and opposed" --- like, "gates down and out" or something. Or maybe it's not a big enough problem to worry about.

another UK chime in here: taught @ UK indoor walls: re-traced fig8 with a half double fisherman's as a "stopper" & a 4 finger / 100mm tail. {tied! well! please!} ------- an awfully loosely tied figure of 8 (that the belayer has not called out) with a badly tied stopper, will have enough tail that, the atrocious knot will have more time to cinch down & 'lock' at the point of loading preventing calamity. (this is no justification for a shoddy tie-in) ------- there is an excellent vid by a UK Mountain Guide who outlines a scenario where a Half Double Fisherman's is truly a _"stopper"_ (and subsequently i stopped calling it a "tail tidy") not sure if i can link a Uchoob URL here? ----- ignoring my personal preferences for a consistently well dressed fig8 with a half double fisherman's as a stopper... Bowlines, Yosemite Finish, Competition Knot etc all valid! please make em neat & cinched + buddy check before leaving the ground. :-j p.s. & yup, have personally vocalised the 'not happy' buddy check a few times indoors.

So the one question I have in this configuration of two twin/half ropes is, how do you configure the rappel? I assume you just tie the two ropes together with two flat overhands and rappel off the joined ends of the two ropes near the knot. Is that correct? And how is that safe if neither of the ropes are rated as single and you are rappelling on a single strand?

Scarpa 👌 for ever even if they are more expensive

Thanks, Great content and as usual a great video🧗

Keep the videos coming!

Hi, I did the same modification. It was so easy and is such an upgrade to the boot. is this the Intuition Tour Tongue Dual Density liner you have in the boost? Which thickness did you choose?

Here is some useful beta to elevate your multipitch game. Toss a micro trax on one bolt and link your two bolts together with a draw or two cloves. If someone gives me a TR belay when I'm following them that's the last pitch I will ever follow them on, lol