Відео

Yeah, what's up with the little yellow one? And the 2 being orange!

@@user-pr5tx9ep4m I think the yellow is close to an alien yellow? Not sure, haven't used aliens

@@Friendfox Ok. Yeah, I always wondered if there was some logic for breaking what seems like the "standard" color sequence.

@@zeruel857 oh crap, got the name wrong! I changed the title but can’t change what I said haha.

@@ryantilley9063 wish you could give us your honest opinion about the Alpine Up. Here in Italy and I think also in Europe in general, is generally appreciated by a lot of people

> If you are worried your anchor will rip on body weigth of 2 people, you dont have an anchor. That's not how safety factors work. Reducing the safety margin does change the risk that something bad will happen. > Tie knots and simul rappeling is really no more dangerous than a regular rap. The video went into a few reasons why this is not the case.

@@bobbbobins you realize that people just hanging out at an even semi-hanging anchor are going to have 2x body weight on the anchor. If you are seriously concerned your anchor will rip with 2 people on it, you should be building a better anchor or downclimbing. The failure mode of simul rapping is that if one person goes off the end of the rope, the other will also fall because of the counter balance. The whole points about ropes rubbing don't make any sense because in a traditional double strand rap, you are relying on the loop of both strands as a singular continuous piece. If one side were to abrade or be cut, it would have the same failure mode. Simul rappelling is not faster but it does making rapping on grigri nice when both partners are only carrying grigris without having to fix the rope. I have gotten ropes stuck by blocking knots before and those are not fun.

@@connordobsonclimb the rope getting cut certainly does matter. The recent tests about ropes getting cut all show that the amount of weight is a big factor in how likely a rope is to get cut.

@@connordobsonclimb why would both climbers only carry grigris? Wouldn’t 1 grigri and 1 tube style device be lighter? (Or, if weight isn’t so critical, 1 tube style device and 2 grigris?)

Some of the older climbs in the Needles in the Black Hills of SD also require this type of simul rappel, due to the lack of an anchor. I don’t think that’s what we are talking about here. Ryan is discussing people choosing to simul rappel of an anchor, to save time.

agree with all the points you make tho

@@vangough1770 nice, that totally sucks that those guys stole your cam, what assholes! To that point about the chossy rock, I think it’s focusing in on the wrong thing. If you’re rappelling in a chossy environment then you should avoid simul- rappelling at all costs. A person on the anchor above can avoid knocking rocks down on you, and if they can’t you shouldn’t climb with them. But if a rock does get knocked down the main issue is it could cut the rope not just hit you. If the rock hits you that could be very bad, but you could still survive- maybe you get knocked unconscious, but you could quite possibly still get a rescue crew to helicopter you off the mountain. If the rock chops your rope you very well might just die. If we take that situation to simul- rappelling: now you have way more force on the rope, and both of you are on one strand. The more taught the rope is, the more likely it tends to be cut over a sharp edge or with the impact of a rock. So if you’re rappelling in a more rock fall prone area the likelihood of the rope getting full chopped is higher and now both of you will die if the rope gets chopped. Also in my experience, more often than not the rope is the thing that causes rock fall more than your partner (unless you truly have a really shitty partner.) I rappel in alpine environments all the time with newer climbers and if I tell them to be carful about kicking rocks off, they don’t knock any rocks on me. Part of this is also choosing or knowing the best route down the mountain too, that can be a big factor, but you shouldn’t be making your own route down anyway unless it’s an emergency. TLDR: you’re right that you don’t have another person up there to knock rocks down, but you still have a lot of rock fall possibilities anyway, you still have way less margin of error, and if you make one mistake you and your friend still die.

@@ryantilley9063 this totally makes sense, I think I’ve been paranoid about accidentally hurting a partner by knocking rocks on to them, but risking a climber getting hit at an anchor station is definitely a better situation than a complete system failure. Thanks for the in-depth reply

I've been hearing more about that from folks, I don't know where this idea came from that simul rappelling is safer in an alpine environment. For sure loose rock is a hazard in climbing, and it can have serious consequences if a rock hits you, but in my experience the person above isn't the main cause of rock fall on the repeller below. It's almost always the rope knocking rocks off, and that is usually from the person that's rappelling moving left to right. Also, a lot of folks that are descending alpine routes are "on- sighting" the descent because in the alpine you often rappel a different way than you climb up. If think it's a million times more dangerous to try to figure out your descent while in this tenuous balance with your partner. It would be one thing if it was a sport multi pitch when you're rappelling down the same way you climb up, but it's just adding so much risk when you don't know the way down, and that amount of risk far surpasses the small possibility of your partner kicking a rock off. Sorry if that sounded preachy, this stuff gets me fired up! This would be good topic for a quick follow up video about why this specific idea doesn't make sense. Thanks for your comment!

Your point on the rope and anchor forces, and increased rope cut potential is well made. Is there a scenario that grigri simul rapping with knots would be the best option?

Ya I could make a video about that, I feel like my room is pretty messy still without a real rhyme or reason to anything, but I could make a quick video about it.

Chairman Meow, he runs the place

Ya the two cats are brother and sister. The Neox does make a chatter sound when taking in slack, it's a little hard to get used to, but it only makes that sound with that one thing. The rest of the time it's pretty quiet.

It's totally inconvenient, but I do the same thing where I let the anti-panic engage then I keep pulling the leaver back without a reset, it lowers like a normal Grigri after that.

That one is named Oliver, the other cat that you see more often is Sky.

I think that rope you already have is pretty good. Are you talking soloing on the way up and only using the rope on the way down? If that's what you're going for you could check out the Petzl Pur line, It's 6mm and has a strength of 15 kN. Pair that with an ATC alpine guide and you can save weight, space, and still get down whatever you want.

@@ryantilley9063 yes that is what i am doing. Solo non technical peaks in my local range. Some have alot of exposure or are just safer to rap off rather than downclimb. I will take a look at the petzel line you mentioned. Thanks again for all the info!

Here are the links: Neox (the newest device): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/NEOX This is the device I give to my clients and new lead belayers. Grigri Plus (some people may call this the Grigri three): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/GRIGRI-PLUS This is the model that I have on my harness most of the time while guiding. Grigri (this is the same as an old Grigri 2 - the Grigri 2 isn't technically made anymore, but some companies may still be selling their old stock, if you can get the newer model which will just be called the Grigri): www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belay-Devices-And-Descenders/GRIGRI This is the model I give to new top rope belayers and the one I like using as a sport climbing belay device personally. Hope that helps!

@@ryantilley9063hey! Thanks for the response but I was referring to the one at 15:30 When searching I was trying to find the 3rd generation but kept getting linked to the grigri 2 (2nd gen)

Just like DMM pivot the rotating point gets closer the rope which makes it easier to lower

That can be kind of a tough question because it does depend on your route that you're going for. Mostly I would use a 30-40m triple rated rope (if you're going through a lot of rock terrain.) If I have to do a few rappels then I may have to have a longer rope to be able to deal with that, possibly go up to a 60m. My favorate rope for something like this is the Mammut Alpine Sender 8.7 dry. It's thin enough to be light and durable enough to deal with the rock scrambles and terrain belays. Really you're trying to get away with the least amount of rope possible, but still be safe. If I'm walking off of the route then I'm in the 30-40m range and with rappelling most often I have 60m. Gaining a quiver of three or four ropes can be helpful with selecting the right one.

@@ryantilley9063 Thank you very much for the explanation. That helps me out a lot. ATB from Norway 🇳🇴

My understanding is that all those ratings are based on what they consider ‘UIAA falls’, which is like Factor 1.5. It’s hard to equate that to the average lead fall - probably impossible. This is a guess, but one F1.5 fall probably stresses the rope the same as 40+ F0.1 falls, which is the most common on sport. For myself, if there is a truly massive fall, I just pinch through the tie-in end of the rope and where the rope pivoted around the protection that caught them. Keeping track of the number of falls seems super unnecessary… just check them regularly and keep them clean

There's no such thing as "a rope can handle n falls". Perhaps you are confusing it with UIAA rated falls which is a test standard

This is a good topic for a video and one I haven't talked about yet, but in short I don't keep track of how many falls my rope has taken. Part of that is my ropes wear differently since I manly climb in the alpine and on long routes. Since my ropes aren't catching a bunch of lead falls I look for different things. The number of UIAA rated falls marked on the package and on the end cap of your rope is not at all the maximum amount of falls a rope can hold. You can literally fall hundreds of times on a rope before you have to retire it! The best thing you can do I watch your rope for signs of wear and retire it if you're at all worried about the integrity. $200 for a new rope is nothing compared to a hospital bill!

I've seen them at Eddie's World and Lee Vining

@@micah7516 Eddie World? as in that creepy gas station on the way to Vegas?? I'm guessing that Mobil station on Tioga pass would carry this

Yep you got it right, I bought these from the large gas station at the start of the Tioga Pass road. I forget the name of it now, but it's the obvious one right off the highway on the Lee Vining side.

Ya you can, the friction mainly comes from the carabiner not what it's wrapped around.

ya I have that mammut one with the steel, it's really good!

@@ryantilley9063 Thanks for the reply, been wanting to try it for a while. I assume it lasts longer than a Reverso with the steel inserts.