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Trad Anchor Systems
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- Опубліковано 14 сер 2024
- Jason Schmaltz (AMGA Rock Guide Apprentice) shows multiple different trad anchor systems that can be used in multipitch or single pitch climbing applications. This is great if you are a lead trad climber or lead sport climber trying to get into bigger rock climbing objectives
#climbing #tradclimbing #rockclimbing
0:00 - Intro
0:17 - Three Point Anchor System
4:59 - Four Point Anchor System
8:23 - Quad Anchor System
13:22 - Girth Hitch Anchor System
Karsten's Girth Hitch Video: • Climbing Anchors: The ...
"If you have more than 4 people in your multi-pitch route you may wanna ask yourself a few other questions." lmao. Love me some Jason.
I've seen it... so crazy 🤣🤣
@@summitseekersexperience Yeah, I have to say, I've done the OR on Whiteside like 100's of times, and I know I'm guilty of dragging folks up things like that. But I try and make sure we get there ULTRA early, and that we don't get in folks way. But yeah, this made me laugh. ;)
@@Sicnus so funny.... dude, I love OR on Whitesides. Trying to get it this season.
I really appreciate you taking the time to bring us these educational videos. Have a great week.
For sure!
Sincerely thank you for these free knowledge classes as you have been my main source of learning outdoor as I don't have a trad dad.
Nice... no worries!!
Trad orphan. :(
That board is pretty darn slick. Love it. With a pretty frame around it maybe I could convince the wife to make it a piece of wall art that is also functional.
RE: Frame: It's these kinds of ideas that have advanced our civilization for thousands of years.
clove hitch to keep sewn tab out of the way... love it!
that's it. maybe I'll see you out there this spring!!
great video! thanks
Great and educational video! Thank you Jason!
Thanks!!
I like your instructions keep up the good work .
Thank you for your videos! Great content!
for sure!
Great video! Thank you Jason
The girth hitch masterpoint is actually safer than it seems. The magic x is unnecessary because it only accounts for the exceedingly rare situation where one leg of the anchor becomes unclipped from the carabiner - which should never happen in a multipitch scenario as the anchor should be weighted or at least in tension at all times. If the leg has the carabiner in it but the cams (or bolt) it is clipped to fails, the carabiner will always act as a stop against the leg slipping through the girth hitch. Only in the scenario of a leg getting cut is a leg slipping through the girth hitch a possibility and in that case the magic x does nothing.
In fact, it is the slipping of the girth hitch that actually increases the safety as it adds some capacity for absorbing fall forces. I have defaulted to using only two anchor configurations for all of my climbing - the bowline on a bight anchor and the girth hitch anchor. These anchors are super comprehensive for most scenarios that I have found, and since I exclusively use dyneema slings, their ability to be untied after loading is very nice.
Interesting... definitely reference the video I put a link that goes to the most recent AMGA conference where they were highlighting the weaknesses of the girth hitch anchor without the magic X.
Great videos and great channel!! Thank you!
I'm jealous of your green sling.
You can get better equalization on a 4piece quad by connecting each piece with adjustable clove hitches
true... gotta do it methodically or shelf may be compromised.
Hey Jason,
Thanks for all the videos you make! I've learned a lot from you.
Question: correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you take an ATC / Reverso and a Grigri when multipitch climbing, right? Have you considered something like an Edelrid Gigajul that also has an autoblocking mode, so you only have one device? If so, why do you prefer taking the two devices?
@NeilStrongarms I have considered the gigajul along with a host of other tertiary belay devices. I have two struggles to add to my belay device kit:
1. I have to learn any belay device in and out and understand everything about it as a guide and I get scared I'll miss some minor detail that could at best hurt my reputation and at worst cause and accident.
2. A lot of times I have to give my belay device to a client. Almost all clients are familiar with an ATC/Reverso and a grigri. If I handed them a gigajul or BD Pilot or something, they'd have no idea how to use it.
So pretty personalized answers but that's where I'm at now.
@@summitseekersexperience makes sense!
Thanks for answering!
Brazil on...Obrigado
Thank you, but what I seem to miss:
I can see how this will hold a fall when you made the lead and belay the other climber below you. Now; when your partner overtakes and starts leading, and then takes a fall, the force will go up, right? Won't those cams and friends come out as they are placed for downward force?
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that you belay top-down off the anchor (so it pulls down) and bottom-up off your harness- that way it doesn't pull up on the anchor unless you get lifted up.
@@jacksonhall5725seems right but i would like a for sure answer as well!
Subscribed! Amazingly informative videos! Can you give me the plans for the trad anchor board? I live in Kansas and not many places to practice placing gear. Thank you.
For the girth hitch anchor system you are loading the orange carabiner connected to the cam and tri-cam on the left in three directions. Is that and okay thing to do?
It looks that way, but one of those pieces on the orange carabiner is not actually loading it. It's not perfectly equalized nor will it be so it will always just have two loads on it. If I was belaying from here, I would keep an eye and try to make sure the cam carabiner didn't come close to the gate.
Hi there, just wondering why you clip the alpine quickdraw in with the carabiners and not just use the sling? Usually I try to avoid clipping non locking carabiners into each other in case of some rattling or whatever. (:
I clipped them to the carabiners because that is what made the most sense based on distances. There is absolutely no issue with clipping a carabiner to another for this reason if you are at the belay looking at the anchor. In reality, there should be no rattling because you should be waiting the anchor system in a MP scenario. But regardless, it is acceptable.
Nice board! I was considering making something similar for strength training instead of buying plastic pieces . What king of glue did you use?
I used the Gorilla Glue that I think can attach to all major construction materials. Same section of Home Depot as Loctite, Liquid Nails, etc.
swamp anchor is good with a single. bowline on a bight too
Thank you.
Do all of the
pieces have to be facing the direction of where the main knot is going to be on the anchor? Or can they still be angled differently and not be in a linear fashion
Hey man thanks for the video. I was wondering if you’ve climbed Whiteside in NC. It looks like some fun and pretty hairy multi pitch. Was hoping there’s a doable 5.9ish there that’s popular and fun. Please let me know. Thanks bro.
Sorry for the late reply (christmas and all). Yes, save the shrimp is a good route to start on out there. Make sure that you've lead 5.9 on trad in a single pitch setting before you go take that one on but it's definitely doable. Route finding is probably the hardest thing. Peep the comments on Mountain Project, my buddy zach left good beta in his comment.
Hello! What technique would you recommend for traversing exposed horizontal terrain? So far I've seen people either connected to the rope with a sling and a carabiner or tied in directly to the rope using a butterfly knot.
depends on the exposure and competence of the climbers involved. You could either do short roping if the leader was extremely competent. Second option would be simulclimbing and probably preferred in most scenarios. Last option would be short pitching which is probably the most conservative. To connect in the middle of the rope, I would recommend an overhand on a bite and then a locking carabiner to the belay loop. Alternatively an alpine butterfly is fine.
What about the equalette ? It isn’t used anymore on trad 4 piece anchors ?
Nice wall!
Any thoughts on blue water titan 5mm cord vs quad length sling for anchor building?
I am not a huge fan of tech cord… but I don’t know much about it (weaknesses and vulnerabilities). I always have one traditional cordolette on my harness (7mm)
what is your preferred anchor system when using vertically stacked pieces, IE in a splitter crack where you've got 3 or 4 pieces spread out across say 1 foot per piece?
If possible you can link the pieces together (one cam carabiner clips the one below it’s sling)… maybe do that with a pair and then have a third one by itself… then do a simple two point anchor system (2 cams + 1 cam).
Can you make a video on how you built that wall? I'd love to know more.
For sure, I may make a second one and I’ll document the process.
What’s the point of gurth hitching?
why not using the equalette ? it is so versatile and does not eat a lot of cordellette
How long is the green sling that you were using for the anchor?
240 cm
How'd you adhere those rocks to your board?
Liquid nails from Home Depot
A knot weakens Dyneema by 70% ! Refer to Ryan Jenks videos.
~40 kn isn't strong enough?
I’m an oval carabiner man
Wes di omongi kene ra butuh isrsel koe nek butuh urusanmu karo kelaurgamu to.
Just what I need everyday!!! Get the following you deserve > 'promosm'.