I mean it's not THAT bad...
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2023
- SWAMP (shelf without a master point) is a climbing anchor that is sorta strong enough, kinda redundant and simple enough if you are just working with 2 bolts. Would you use this?
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GET OUT OF MEH SWAMP
I'm literally never going to climb in my life but I love these videos!
I have recently learned this anchor on a climbing course in Poland. It's called "butterfly" here.
In Italy that is called "balanced fixed anchor" and regularly used and taught in alpine club courses. Some people refer to it also as "english fixed anchor".
In Poland we call it 'the butterfly anchor' since it creates kind of butterfly wings to which you clip your carabiner.
I mean, here in Poland this is actually pretty common anchor. I tie it pretty often when points are close together and I have a free 60 cm in my rack
I use a SWAMP anchor anytime I need to get more from less equipment. Works great, super good enough and super easy to rig. I also like the girth hitch MP.
My climbing buddy who is my mentor loves using these. He likes to use 1 swamp anchor for the belay and a 2nd swamp anchor for tying in. It's pretty efficient
It's been around for a long time. originally Repartitateur Vertaco (Vertaco equaliser) from the Vercours.
Love swamp anchors. I've used them quite a bit on multi pitch sport and ice routes over the past year.
I regularly use a SWAMP if I need to get something up fast or with just shoulder length runners. Additionally, you can adjust the knot between the two points to equalize or adjust the direction of pull.
I like the simplicity of the SWAMP and have been waiting for it to show up in a load test. Thanks!
I really need to send you guys some money, I get so much good information from this channel it’s really criminal that I haven’t yet!
Been curious about this anchor for a while. Thanks for testing it.
It is crazy watching the knots slip and compress under load. I like how you did all of those permutations of different scenarios which seemed quite thorough. Excellent video! 👍
Hi,
Ryan, your channel is the best. That's all I have to say. Very thorough.
It’s great for ice anchors. Put in a screw, measure one sling length down and 30ish degrees off plumb, put in second screw there minus a tiny bit, attach with this style of anchor.
In Poland we call it butterfly-anchor as the two loops look a bit like the butterfly wings ;)