REPLACING REAR SWAY BAR END LINKS!
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- Опубліковано 6 тра 2015
- Let's Do Some Sway Bar Maintenance Today! Join our Community of DIY'ers: ua-cam.com/users/everythin... Follow us on Facebook for More DIY Goodness: / e.doityourself
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*please view the compatible car list below*
2004-2013 Mazda 3
2007-2013 Mazdaspeed3
2006-2014 Mazda 5
2008-2013 Volvo C30 (may be some variations)
2005-2011 Volvo S40 (may be some variations)
**Will work for some Ford Focus Models
READ ME!
The install procedure is the same, with some possible slight variations for the vehicles listed above. Please make sure you buy the correct part for your car's make and model.
Parts:
- Mevotech End Links
Tools Used:
- 14mm Wrench
- 19mm Wrench
- 17mm Wrench
- 3/8 Ratchet
- Various Sockets
- Hex Wrench in Various Sizes
- Torque Wrench
The DIY Rep in this Video is Ally!
To send letters, products for review/use, other correspondence - please use this address:
everythingdiy
P.O. Box 186
Pasadena, CA 91102
FTC Disclaimer:
All products mentioned were purchased by us. None of the companies mentioned are paying us for this video. All opinions are our own.
Other Disclaimers- Everything you do is at your own risk. Everything DIY or its affiliates are not responsible for any personal injury or property damages incurred.
*SAFETY FIRST EVERY TIME* - Авто та транспорт
Thank you for also commenting on the proper lift point. I’ve seen too many people try to do a DIY job and pick a woefully inadequate lift point and end up damaging something. I once saw someone put the jack under the muffler 🤦🏻♀️
This was the best video I found. Straight to the point and didn't need alot of editing and someone who is instructional and just doesnt want to hear themselves talk. Your Dad would be proud. Thanks so much.!!!
I've watched a few videos and a lot of them just seemed to make things overly complicated. I'm going to give this a shot tomorrow morning based on how simple this video makes it look.
Very well done video. I just wanted to advise anyone who doesn't work on cars regularly to have patience on this job. For my 2008 model which spent many winters in Chicago, I ran into plenty of challenges. So my tips: have patience. Use a good lubricant like PB blaster to break the nuts free. You may need a breaker bar or long wrench to get started. You may strip the hex heads due to the torque needed if the bolts are rusty. Cleaning threads, being careful, may help avoid this, but have a backup plan if you find yourself using a lot of force. I was able to use thin channel locking pliers to hold the bolt from spinning when one of the hex ends gave up. Thanks for the video, Cheers!
Best tutorials for the mazdaspeed platform, thank you very much!
Thank you! Good for you using jacks as additional supports and safety under your car. Nice demo. It's like new under your vehicle.
Great video. I have the same symptoms and I appreciate the step by step. I'm gonna try to replace mine!
Nicely done guys. Don't be afraid to use the box end of the wrench. It won't slip off as easily and that will keep these knuckles in one piece.
Awesome instructional video, really clean and clear great work keep em coming
ive watched a lot of car tutorials and you guys do some of the best. thanks for doing these
Thanks for the video! I did not notice the hex slot in the sway bar link until I saw your video!
Your videos are incredible. So clear, so informative.
Plus you make a great example for my daughter. :)
Excellent video. I just took a lunch break from working on mine and to find instructions on installing the Moog link kit I purchased. It came with no instructions and there are several parts that were not with the OE; therefore, need to be sure I am installing this non-OE parts properly. My only advice it - use the box end of the wrench whenever possible as it will have less tendency to slip off and result in banged up or skinned knuckles. Other than that; great presentation done by a charming an beautiful lady.
Thank you for the video! Simple and direct, I appreciate your guys videos. Keep 'em coming :)
Very nicely explained and well filmed with good lighting too. Well done you, power to your elbow. You could many a guy to shame.
My Escape looks almost identical to that link. nicely done.
Thank you for using a quality camera for your videos
Great tutorial thanks for sharing could you list the brand and part numbers for those endlinks I am about to tackle this job on my Miata soon I just got the sway bars in today
Good video I actually need to do this cause my clunking is still going on after replacing my bushings and shocks/springs
thank you so much for this video i wouldn't be able to find out i need and L wrench to hold it to take out the bold, great videio thank u!!!
i'm in love this girl knows what shes talking about
Used this video yesterday, should do a front end-link one!
Very clear. Thank you
thank you for such clear video. Will this be the same layout as a mazda 3 2.0? I bought my mazda 3 used 2007 and I hear a clunking noise over uneven roads and bumps. I looked at strut mount and doesnt seem to be cracked. How will i know if its the end link or another component in the passenger rear? Its driving me nuts.
I just replaced my worn end links. Thanks for the tutorial. My Speed rides so much better. Next weekend I'm going to do the bushings. Can it be done without touching the end links?
Very helpful, thank you.
Excelente trabajo, muy buena presentación y me salvaste con los detalles ✌️
🇺🇦 Saludos 🇲🇽
Awesome as Always!
Hi. Just wanted to start by saying that your videos are very well laid out and extremely helpful. I have a 2011 mazda 3 hatchback (not the mazdaspeed) and I've had to change end links a couple times now because really bad roads that can't be avoided. Will the mevotechs stand up better to rough roads under normal driving conditions? Also where can I source the coil over kit from your other video? I'm not finding it on amazon. A link would be awesome! Thanks and keep up the good work.
Hey love ur Chanel n ur really helpful I got a 2012 mazdaspeed 3 were do I get does end links thanks
Wow tons of information in this video! Great job👌
Speed3_Serg Thanks!!
Great video, very informative. Thanks for the recommendation/info on the Mevotech end links. I was hesitant to buy Mevotech equipment since the brand doesn't have the same reputation as Moog, but your video makes them look like quality parts and a good buy for the money.
I just have one suggestion: use the box end of the wrench rather than the open end to loosen the end link nuts (in fact, use the box end whenever possible). The box end is stronger, fits better, and is less likely to slip or strip the nut (since it grips the nut on every side rather than just two). Also, if you put enough torque on it, the nut can actually spring the wrench jaws apart ( i.e. \_/ rather than |_| ), which practically guarantees a stripped nut.
keep up the good work.
Another great video! Thanks!
Front lower control arms next please! :)
you are amazing .. god bless you
I never thought I'd see this!
Greetings, I'm doing some end link shopping for my 1st Gen speed and wanted to inquire about how long did those mevotech endlinks last?
So, if I have lowered my car, how do I know how to adjust my rear end links? I still have OEM links, but with my car lowered, I am thinking of switching to the adjustable ones. Thanks. The videos are great.
Thanks for the video! What size hex key did you use on the stock link kit?
Good job!👍
thanks for your help.where did u learn how to work on cars?
Pb blaster and some ratcheting wrenches are great for this
Nice Mazda !!!
I have to do the ones on my wife 04 impala. not hard tho....good job!
Great video and reference, it was very concise and helpful. Thank you!
RUSTY CARS:
For anyone else who may experience rust/seized challenges as I did with my decade-old, midwest speed, consider;
Own a propane torch, wire brush, small file, wd40/similar, considerable patience. (Maybe finally buy the impact driver and impact-ready sockets you've always wanted, as a gift to yourself for saving shop costs 😁.)
Half of the job is breaking nuts free. It may be a good idea to purchase and replace all nuts/bolts/washers with new hardware.
Wire-brush or lightly file all rusty exposed threads/hexheads first if need be to ensure a GREAT socket seat on every hex head. Blow clean with air.
Soak with Pb Blaster or wd40, allow to sit a short bit.
I heated almost every nut (not bolts) w a small propane torch for 15seconds. This helps the nut to expand and break free rusted threads. Be careful not to burn your fingers as the surrounding area will be hot.
A small impact and impact ready bits make this job a good bit easier. Clouds of rust dust shook free while I would alternate a few drives from the impact, particularly as I was replacing sway bear bushings. Patience is a virtue.
After rounding one nut I knew I shouldn't continue with my current toolset. It took me 3 attempts before I knew I had all the necessary tools / process to combat the rust and perform this job without cutting. Hang in there!
You made this look sooooooooo simple. I feel soooooooo silly for paying to get this done now
Hey ! Awesome video guys! What suspension are you guys running?
I wish you would have put something about the bad experience with Mevotech in this article. I bought them because I saw you used them!
You can always use a crow's foot open end adapter to get a torque wrench to work on the bottom nut on these end links. Quite honestly buying 10-12-14-17-19mm crow's feet 'adapters' will cover 95% of jobs where you just can't use a regular ratchet head torque wrench. The crow's feet can turn your regular ratchet torque wrench into an open ended torque wrench, I highly suggest this method whenever you can use it, most stuff w/ a torque spec are way safer torqued than guessed.. Other than that, great DIY vids, thanks a lot for your contribution to the MS3 platform, and to the DIY world in general!
Ehwal This does work, but you have to re-calculate the torque setting based on the added leverage. Here is a site that explains how to do it: www.engineersedge.com/manufacturing_spec/torque_wrench_1.htm
Probably not that important in this application (honestly, the way she did it in the video is just fine here), but it could be critical in a more fragile or sensitive assembly, especially with softer materials like aluminum, brass, or plastics.
Professor Doom Yes, sorry, yer right, if you want to be super precise you can do the simple equation you provided info on to find out how much aprox 1/4-3/4 inches (~10-19mm crowfoot adapters) of leverage/length (extra torque) they will make then go that way. The difference is not going to be substantial, it grows at a linear rate, I usually go for the middle of the factory torque specs w/ crowsfeet, most specs give a fairly broad range.. 40-60 ft/lbs on a 17mm, 85-110 inch/lbs on 10mm. You can do the math, but a crow's foot doesn't add a lot of torque to a wrench.
When you add in extensions on torque wrenches it gets much more difficult to precisely measure actual torque at the bolt/nut, but I haven't been to that point with extensions and TQ wrenches..
Anyways, peeps be careful, if you use special tools do a lil research on them, it's all on the web by now.
man girl you rock thks so much,i'll save money now
Nice, thanks
we now a happier couple thanks lol
What did you do to your taillights to make them have that black border? Looks good, interested in doing it myself
Great video! I’ve the same color on my 3 😁 what sway bar is that? I’ve a Whiteline on mine but looking for something beefier! Thanks!
Any update on how you like the Mevotech end links?
I read somewhere you are supposed to put these on under load, as-in jacking up the wheels. Is this true?
I think I'm gonna hit more than the like button...😉😉😉
Thanks for the very informative Video. i have a mazda 6 and i recently replaced my rear sway bar links because i heard rattling coming from the rear. unfortunately my links were both bad. After changing them didn't stop the rattling. not only the rattling is a pain, but my left rear tire was cupping cause a sound like bad bearings and the car shifts/ sway or dances at the rear on uneven roads or roads with tiny pot holes even with the new links. This is frustrating. I recently inspected the rear of the car and noticed my sway bar bushings are both shot. Can this be the cause of these problems outlined.
please advise. thanks in advance
For anyone seeing this and wanting an answer, bad sway bar bushings is a very common reason for rattling or clunking.
nice fix
Hi, i actually have all the symptoms you listed, i hear left rear rattling when going over bumpy road at low speed, and sound going diagonally onto driveways. I took it to the dealership for oil change, and i asked them to check if end links are tight. They said they checked it and it has no play and seems good. I want to ask if it's possible to have"no play" but simply the joint if the links is bad? P.s. i did modify my swaybar to a jbr one. Thanks!
Did you guys have a different rear bumper inset or did you paint it black. I've watched your sway bar install and the bumper was solid blue. In this video it's different. Just asking because I kind of want to get something similar to mine after I put in my rear sway
Wondering if I can use the ramps instead of using jack stands?
do these links fit the regular 2008 mazda 3 2.3l?
Awesome! More videos pls :)
What year is your speed3? How reliable has it been? I am looking into buying one
Thanks!
Do you have to upgrade your sway bar if you’re on coilovers?
Un excelente vídeo, en México ganarías muchos suscriptores si los vídeos fueran subtitulados
Hey, where can you purchase these mevotech mazda 3 end links? Thanks
I like the video but some things a kind of confusing, the sockets that are on the creeper are 14mm, 17mm & 19mm?, you have them listed on your tools list as "wrench" also what size is the Flex Head Combination Wrench 4th from the L, thank you.
Where does the clunking sound come from, I have similar symptoms but the sound seem to be coming from somewhere along the shock..
Do one video with the front control arm bushings please.
You can use a torque wrench using a torque adapter! Snap on or Mac have them.
Tks soo nice 👍🏻
Do you think you could do a video replacing the front links too?
That would be awesome!
Great video by the way :)
+Mary Catherine Already done! Here you go: ua-cam.com/video/j56QWkCYt0k/v-deo.html
+everythingdiy Thank you! Totally awesome since I need to change both front & rear. Which will be fun... : )
And a sub earned :)
How do you know how much to torque the bolt?
Did u feel a big difference or was it a slight difference
Tip: use a watched socket wrench so it won't slip off, rounding the nut and busting those knuckles
Thank you 💕🇨🇦👍
Thank U!!!
You are a very talented woman Oh, I love you
Any reason u choose these over Moog's
I have a question for you re: the end links for the speed 3. Do they fit 'snug' in the Barone sway arm mounting hole? Mine do not, but I have a Mazda 5 (similar to nonSpeed 3). I had to make bushings to take up the room, but if the speed3 link studs fit correctly, I'd rather just use those.
+Todd Newton Hey Todd. The Mazda 5 has different end links that are both smaller and weaker than the Speed 3's. The bolts should fit snugly in the sway bar mounting holes with little to no play. If the bolts can move around in the mounting holes that means they can abruptly shift positions while the car is in a corner causing severe damage to either the bar or end links.To be safe you should upgrade to end links designed for a Mazdaspeed3. I would personally recommend either the OEM Mazdaspeed 3 or Moog endlinks. Thanks for watching!
+everythingdiy That's why I made the brass bushings. Next time I'l definitely l get the speed3 links. Thanks!
hi, do you this for a living ? do you work on other's car?
Do you know the size of the nut that connects the end link to the sway bar? @ 1:56
+Tony Nguyen 17mm. Thanks for watching!
Watching the first part of the video watching the open end of the wrench being used made me cringe a bit. Busted my knuckle or rounded off the nuts multiple times when i've tried it in the past!
But regardless it looked like it worked out for you! Keep up the good work!
@everythingdiy i like that pivoting handwrenvh. What brand is it?
They're awesome. I can't say enough how great these wrenches have been. They're made by a company called GearWrench, they're called Ratcheting Flex Head Combinations Wrenches. I bought them at sears a few years ago for $75 although it seems like the price has gone up a bit.
everythingdiy sears huh. Im going to need to make a trip there this week. Thanks and keep uo the good work!
very easy when the car is almost new but another story after 5-6 years !
The car was 5 years old when we filmed this video.
then it's clear that this car never ran in winter condition for sure ! ;)
I was about to do wheel alignment for my 2004 mazda3, the mechanic said that they have to replace something broken before they can be able to align the wheels, I totally forgot what the parts he mentioned. I just want to replace them myself so I can save $$ for parts and labor and they can just align.them.for me. so I am just curious what those parts are and i'am a bit shy to ask the mechanic again what.are those parts. any idea or suggestion and advice?
probably "tie rods". if they are worn and sloppy then an alignment wont do any good because they are what connects the steering to the tires
Sway bar end links are a nightmare if they are rusted from snowy/salt road areas. Most people have to get them off with either a torch or a saw
I do it thank U
I traded in my 2008 Mazda 3 for a used 2013 Mazda 3 i GT hatchback. I noticed that there seems to be only one small splash shield behind the front bumper on this car. When I looked in the engine bay of my 2008 Mazda, I couldn't see the pavement underneath. Not so with the 2013 model. Is the front splash shield it for my newer Mazda, or should there be more? Thanks.
Dale S. There should be a splash shield covering pretty much the bottom of the entire engine. It may have been removed by the previous owner.
I'm in love! :D
i have a 2006 mazda 3 2.3 where did u buy your sway bar?? like to buy the same
Is it ok to do this without a torque wrench
Hi! I've already changed the End Links (Used OEM) the noise disappeared for a week but it came back... what else could be? I even used two nuts to avoid them get loose... but nothing. I am desperate with that freaking noise...
for my front sway bar links...had same issue. I put the sway bar end links on. tightened them. drove around the sound was gone. then...a few days later it came back. double checked them. turns out...the bolts loosened some how or i didn't tighten them enough...tightened them again. sound is now gone. .....so i would recommend you double check the bolts and see if they just need a tightening. good luck!
Anyone experiencing a loose boot on the end of the end link? The big plastic cap...
Put a short shift kit! Huge difference..
Mevotech or moog? Also found beefy beck&arnley
Waoo me enamore
Cool chick 😎
Hello, may I ask you, how the rear endlinks you installed so far, I believe you have a thicker rear sway bar, I tried whitelines and moog, but they last a couple of months, the whitelines lasted 2 weeks and I tried it twice, so never again, the front whitelines endlinks are good but the rear are really crap , so i wonder is the brand you used for the rear sway bar any good so far? Cheers
I tried every aftermarket brand they all started clunking within weeks of installation. I use OEM. They're hands down the best end links, they've lasted me years without any sort of noise or failure.
Very strange indeed, I live in Australia and bought two OEM rear endlinks from Mazda in the USA and only lasted a few weeks with my whiteline rear sway bar. I actually bought two of this brand you used in this video after watching it, so I guess they are useless, have not installed them yet but I guess will clunk as quick. Cheers
Can you give me the part number please for the OEM you bought, possibly Mazda in the USA sent me the ones for the normal Mazda not the speed3. Cheers
I use these: B37F-28-170B. The last time I bought a set was 2 years ago. I've been running my JBR sway bar on full stiffness with no noise to speak of.
Cheers
awsome i had that rattle, i showed this to my girl...