I just had the same problem with my 100DS. I just watched your video yesterday. This morning I pulled the flange (I did not take off the tank, just dropped the exhaust), dug out the potting compound, and re-soldered the wires. I am waiting on some Chemseal B2 to use as potting compound. J-B Weld actually makes a specific gas tank sealer but according to the package, it contains steel, and I was worried that it might be conductive. Maybe it would have worked, but I don't mind waiting a few days to get the Chemseal and a few more days for it to cure. I appreciate the video though. It was helpful because it gave me confidence that the job was not beyond my capability to do. Thanks!
JB Weld is considered an insulator. Been working on the fix noted in the video since 2018 without issue. Glad the video helped you out. Let me know how it goes.
@@BobRumohr Will do. Your video was a good help. I am reasonably proficient around the shop, but Ducati shop manual treats the fuel pump assy as one part and it was helpful to see that the pump assembly was not all that complex.
Got the Chemseal B2 in today. This is an aviation grade sealer that is gasoline safe. Though it is not specified if it is ethanol resistant, there are people that have reported on aircraft forums that it appears to work well with ethanol. Consistency was like a thin past and it injected into the port and flowed well enough that it seemed to fill the pass through housing. Cures in about 72 hours at 77 degrees but it is hot here and I left it outside to cure, so I am guessing that it will probably be ready to go back in the tank in 48 hours. I have some exhaust gaskets on order (since I had to drop the muffler and pipe i decided I would put in a new gasket where the horizontal cylinder goes into the pre-silencer pipe) and new chain and sprockets so it will be four or five days before I can get the bike back on the road, but I did want to let you know again that I appreciate your video. Have an epic day!
Man..i only just completed this same repair yesterday after searching for a fix and today after the repair is completed this comes up in my recommended..I was looking for something to cover the JB weld but couldnt find anything..it seems like Ducati just tin the wires, wedge them in and rely on the epoxy to hold the wires in place
I reuse if original is ok. If not I source from local parts house or deanship if necessary. Cycleworks is a great resource: ca-cycleworks.com/or-50481a.html
@@toddstahley4256 Locktite EA E - 30CL Adhesive. It's a 2 part adhesive and requires a dispenser. www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/structural-adhesives/loctite_ea_e-30cl.html
@@BobRumohr Hi Bob - this was very informative thx. I wanted to find out what it looked like after 3 years? Did the Kreem bond to the Jbweld? How did it fail? I successfully completed the fix per your video and am trying to decide whether to add the Kreem... Also the whole OEM wiring flange (minus the ground wire, which would need to be attached from the broken flange) is available from Ducati for $170.00 - It is an unlisted part # 51020032A just so you know. I ordered it and will wind up installing the new part anyway - glad to have accomplished the homebrew fix though)
Thank you for your video. I spoke to 3m and they have a product called 8N. But unable to obtain small batch. Called JB weld, they don't make anything they would recommend and said to look into a product called gasoila, in yellow can. Hope sharing my adventures helps.
Hello, I have similar problem but not because of the cold weather. I live in Finland. So my bike happen like this, when I switch the ignition on, I couldnt hear the pump sound. I did remove the whole fuel pump out just like you did, then connect it directly to 12v source and the pump working, then clean the connector, it works again. Then after I put everything back to the bike, the bike was running like 2 minutes, then it stop working again. So what would be the problem ? The connector ? or the proxy part just like your ?
The cold weather only revealed the underlying problem which was an intermittent solder joint in the bulkhead connector. I'm sure you have the same problem, i.e., you most likely have an intermittent solder connection on one or more of the four wires at the bulkhead connector (connector with podding compound).
When the bike wouldn't start, did it do anything weird while trying to start it? I have a 2008 Multistrada 1100S when you turn the key and try and start the bike it acts like starter switch is sticking and you dont hear the fuel pump working.
If, by “it acts like starter switch is sticking”, you mean that the starter continues to crank after releasing the starter button then this normal Ducati starter routine behavior if the engine does not fire immediately. The starter routine is processor controlled. It sounds like there is no power getting to the fuel pump. Likely cause is broken wire at flange connector.
@@BobRumohr ok, i didn't know that was normal starter behavior. Looks like i'm gonna have to tear it all down. Thanks so much for the video and the info.
I'm having similar issues with my solder connection. What method did you use to remove the factory epoxy without damaging the wires? Also, did you have to buy a snap ring from Ducati, or was is a common metric size and shape that I could pick up from a hardware store?
Hello Boyd. The factory epoxy exposed to the fuel was soft enough to carefully pick it out with a dental pick.without damaging the wires. It was not necessary to remove the epoxy exposed to the outside world because I was able to determine that the wire break was on the fuel side. No new snap ring was required. Actually, it is not necessary to remove the connector from the flange. I did however, just to make filming the job easier. Cheers. Bob.
Same problem …what a shitty design by Ducati manufacturer very very poor design ready to fail any time ! 😢 my sr2 monster have same problem……aftermarket is 300$ at least …. Hopefully I will solve it
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video. Laughed at the radio comment. Our local station does the same thing.
I just had the same problem with my 100DS. I just watched your video yesterday. This morning I pulled the flange (I did not take off the tank, just dropped the exhaust), dug out the potting compound, and re-soldered the wires. I am waiting on some Chemseal B2 to use as potting compound. J-B Weld actually makes a specific gas tank sealer but according to the package, it contains steel, and I was worried that it might be conductive. Maybe it would have worked, but I don't mind waiting a few days to get the Chemseal and a few more days for it to cure.
I appreciate the video though. It was helpful because it gave me confidence that the job was not beyond my capability to do. Thanks!
JB Weld is considered an insulator. Been working on the fix noted in the video since 2018 without issue. Glad the video helped you out. Let me know how it goes.
@@BobRumohr Will do. Your video was a good help. I am reasonably proficient around the shop, but Ducati shop manual treats the fuel pump assy as one part and it was helpful to see that the pump assembly was not all that complex.
Got the Chemseal B2 in today. This is an aviation grade sealer that is gasoline safe. Though it is not specified if it is ethanol resistant, there are people that have reported on aircraft forums that it appears to work well with ethanol. Consistency was like a thin past and it injected into the port and flowed well enough that it seemed to fill the pass through housing. Cures in about 72 hours at 77 degrees but it is hot here and I left it outside to cure, so I am guessing that it will probably be ready to go back in the tank in 48 hours. I have some exhaust gaskets on order (since I had to drop the muffler and pipe i decided I would put in a new gasket where the horizontal cylinder goes into the pre-silencer pipe) and new chain and sprockets so it will be four or five days before I can get the bike back on the road, but I did want to let you know again that I appreciate your video. Have an epic day!
Is this the same pump as a 2006 monster 1000
Man..i only just completed this same repair yesterday after searching for a fix and today after the repair is completed this comes up in my recommended..I was looking for something to cover the JB weld but couldnt find anything..it seems like Ducati just tin the wires, wedge them in and rely on the epoxy to hold the wires in place
Where did you get the installation kit ,The little retention Lock washers ? Thanks for any help
I reuse if original is ok. If not I source from local parts house or deanship if necessary. Cycleworks is a great resource: ca-cycleworks.com/or-50481a.html
Just wondering how your fix is holding up thanks for the video
It held up for about 3 years, Had to redo it last year. Spec'd a better epoxy that is suppose to hold up in the presence of fuel much better.
@@BobRumohr ok awesome what did you use for the 2nd fix
@@toddstahley4256 Locktite EA E - 30CL Adhesive. It's a 2 part adhesive and requires a dispenser. www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/structural-adhesives/loctite_ea_e-30cl.html
Thanks for your video great help
@@BobRumohr Hi Bob - this was very informative thx. I wanted to find out what it looked like after 3 years? Did the Kreem bond to the Jbweld? How did it fail? I successfully completed the fix per your video and am trying to decide whether to add the Kreem... Also the whole OEM wiring flange (minus the ground wire, which would need to be attached from the broken flange) is available from Ducati for $170.00 - It is an unlisted part # 51020032A just so you know. I ordered it and will wind up installing the new part anyway - glad to have accomplished the homebrew fix though)
Thank you for your video. I spoke to 3m and they have a product called 8N. But unable to obtain small batch. Called JB weld, they don't make anything they would recommend and said to look into a product called gasoila, in yellow can. Hope sharing my adventures helps.
Hello, I have similar problem but not because of the cold weather. I live in Finland. So my bike happen like this, when I switch the ignition on, I couldnt hear the pump sound.
I did remove the whole fuel pump out just like you did, then connect it directly to 12v source and the pump working, then clean the connector, it works again.
Then after I put everything back to the bike, the bike was running like 2 minutes, then it stop working again.
So what would be the problem ? The connector ? or the proxy part just like your ?
The cold weather only revealed the underlying problem which was an intermittent solder joint in the bulkhead connector. I'm sure you have the same problem, i.e., you most likely have an intermittent solder connection on one or more of the four wires at the bulkhead connector (connector with podding compound).
Do you do this repair for Clients ,I think I have this same problem on my 2006 Ducati Monster S2R 800,
No. I'm not a business. Just repair for self and friends.🙂
Thanks - I have the same problem - now I'll be able to start my bike
When the bike wouldn't start, did it do anything weird while trying to start it? I have a 2008 Multistrada 1100S when you turn the key and try and start the bike it acts like starter switch is sticking and you dont hear the fuel pump working.
If, by “it acts like starter switch is sticking”, you mean that the starter continues to crank after releasing the starter button then this normal Ducati starter routine behavior if the engine does not fire immediately. The starter routine is processor controlled. It sounds like there is no power getting to the fuel pump. Likely cause is broken wire at flange connector.
@@BobRumohr ok, i didn't know that was normal starter behavior. Looks like i'm gonna have to tear it all down. Thanks so much for the video and the info.
I'm having similar issues with my solder connection. What method did you use to remove the factory epoxy without damaging the wires? Also, did you have to buy a snap ring from Ducati, or was is a common metric size and shape that I could pick up from a hardware store?
Hello Boyd. The factory epoxy exposed to the fuel was soft enough to carefully pick it out with a dental pick.without damaging the wires. It was not necessary to remove the epoxy exposed to the outside world because I was able to determine that the wire break was on the fuel side. No new snap ring was required. Actually, it is not necessary to remove the connector from the flange. I did however, just to make filming the job easier. Cheers. Bob.
Same problem …what a shitty design by Ducati manufacturer very very poor design ready to fail any time ! 😢 my sr2 monster have same problem……aftermarket is 300$ at least …. Hopefully I will solve it