Відео

Remove the oil pressure switch and screw in the gauge. The oil pressure switch is a small switch with one wire going to it located under the left side cylinder. It sends a ground to the instrument panel to light the oil light when it does not detect pressure.

The cold weather only revealed the underlying problem which was an intermittent solder joint in the bulkhead connector. I'm sure you have the same problem, i.e., you most likely have an intermittent solder connection on one or more of the four wires at the bulkhead connector (connector with podding compound).

It's been a long time since I have visited the R90s playlist but it should be found here: ua-cam.com/play/PLWfV7qXpxfphzITfMvjPZeffym3UODHO0.html

Thanks. If memory serves - and at 70 yo I must admit it's failing - I seem to recall I wanted to keep average between 60 and 70 mph. Although I do recall times when it was much lower and much higher. The road condition was not great with many severe pot hole fields and I found the best way through them was, in Jeremy Clarkson's words, speed and power. Deep gravel was the killer requiring a one tire width path where the gravel may been compacted by other vehicles. Speed can get you into trouble real fast if venturing off line even for a second. Concentration was important and the most difficult part of the ride apart from the isolation. I literally saw no one except at the ferry crossings and then maybe one other vehicle and the ferry operator. Of course the rain didn't make it easy either.

@@BobRumohr Thanks ! Much appreciated !

Really sorry to hear of this. Hansen's had a great machine shop and skilled people. We almost lost our house in the Kincade fire in 2019.

There are 2 other videos in the playlist addressing bench testing. I would refer you to them, IHTH.

Found them! Thank you. Tested mine and could not get an OL reading ona ny wire....just triple 000's. I think just my pump is bad....@@BobRumohr

Haven't watched this in years! Thanks for the comment which encouraged me to re-watch the vid. Only recommendation would be to stay out of the dispensaries 😎 (lol). Could get you into trouble, sure did me 🤣

@@BobRumohr def will take that advice!!

Thanks. Haven't pulled the gearbox down to inspect but it has thousands of miles on it now with no issues shifting...fingers crossed 😏

@@BobRumohr Thanks for your reply. If you ever open up the gearbox, you'll have to give us a video of its condition :)

It held up for about 3 years, Had to redo it last year. Spec'd a better epoxy that is suppose to hold up in the presence of fuel much better.

@@BobRumohr ok awesome what did you use for the 2nd fix

@@toddstahley4256 Locktite EA E - 30CL Adhesive. It's a 2 part adhesive and requires a dispenser. www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/structural-adhesives/loctite_ea_e-30cl.html

Thanks for your video great help

@@BobRumohr Hi Bob - this was very informative thx. I wanted to find out what it looked like after 3 years? Did the Kreem bond to the Jbweld? How did it fail? I successfully completed the fix per your video and am trying to decide whether to add the Kreem... Also the whole OEM wiring flange (minus the ground wire, which would need to be attached from the broken flange) is available from Ducati for $170.00 - It is an unlisted part # 51020032A just so you know. I ordered it and will wind up installing the new part anyway - glad to have accomplished the homebrew fix though)

Thanks CS. I cannot remember exactly how I removed the bearing in this case. However, I will say that in some FD rebuilds I have had the bearing be retained in the cover requiring removal from same. I would do this by heating the cover and the bearing would usually drop out. Otherwise an ID slide hammer/puller would be used along with mild heat. In cases where the bearing remains on the shaft I would place the assembly in the freezer and let it cold soak. Then apply mild heat to the bearing only. If it wouldn't drop off then I would try to gently pry it using large screw drivers to get it started then pull the bearing with a standard bearing puller.

@@BobRumohr Thanks very much. I always wondered how that could be done without destroying the ball bearing on the crown wheel.

Well, as you probably know, you don't want to be prying on the outer race of any bearing...but if needs must. I will usually replace all bearings when I have an assembly down depending on specific circumstances.

@@BobRumohr Correct. The bearing, I believe is about $70.00, but I still need to remove it without being destructive.

Yes, it is going up for sale this winter.

No. I'm not a business. Just repair for self and friends.🙂

I reuse if original is ok. If not I source from local parts house or deanship if necessary. Cycleworks is a great resource: ca-cycleworks.com/or-50481a.html

Nonsense? Ever restore a motorcycle?

Many photos and video segments taken during renovation. At the time, just couldn't be bothered to string together into a video.

Thanks. Don't know if you are running zwift on Windows 11 but I started running into problems trying pair the Myrun to Zwift running on a PC Wind 11 as depicted in this video. So I have been testing a new setup that has very solid Bluetooth pairing characteristics. So now I use the ZCA running on an iPad to act as a bridge. Setup is: QZ runninging on iPhone (7), ZCA running on iPad, Zwift running on PC Windows 11. Instead of using "Internal" blue tooth setting in the Zwift Pairing screen, I now set it to ZCA. Everything pairs up immediately with no dropouts. Video to follow.

In order to have Zwift control your treadmill inclination you must first pair as a controllable bike. This requires that you create a meetup. Only then can you pair the treadmill in a controllable way. Once that is accomplished and you have entered your meetup then you can go to the pairing screen and pair as run. I don't see how this could be accomplished by joining a group run. Perhaps if you create your meetup and join a group ahead of time using the ZCA, then pair as noted above. Once you join your meetup and begin running I suspect that the Join Group Run prompt will occur allowing you join the group run. Whether or not the bike pairing has been retained is an unknown, at least to me. If it is retained then you may fine that zwift controls the inclination. I suspect that bike pairing, and thus inclination control, will be lost. Maybe Roberto Viola could weight in on this topic...

Lighter is definitely where it's at for sure!!!!

Side stand is self made for the most part. The mounting bracket recently let go while on the stand. I was able to keep the bike from going over but the stand got scrapped. I'm now using a side stand purchased from Vintage - works great! vintagebeemerparts.com/vintage-bmw-r51-2-r68-sidestand-stainless-steel-complete/

Thanks Gordon. No, I just recently sold it. I'm having some shoulder issues as I age and am finding that a sit up and beg position is best for my condition. Getting old sucks but at least I'm still riding.

@@BobRumohr My friend has one that he bought 3 years ago and similar situation 24ooo miles hasn't been driven since 99,so I've offered to get it running ,the throttle cable is stuck, engine turns over i will clean it first to your directions, and do you think a compression test also? To tell you the truth Bob whoever bought your r90s will be extremely happy. Glad to hear your still riding.

Japanese are pretty good too!

JB Weld is considered an insulator. Been working on the fix noted in the video since 2018 without issue. Glad the video helped you out. Let me know how it goes.

@@BobRumohr Will do. Your video was a good help. I am reasonably proficient around the shop, but Ducati shop manual treats the fuel pump assy as one part and it was helpful to see that the pump assembly was not all that complex.

Got the Chemseal B2 in today. This is an aviation grade sealer that is gasoline safe. Though it is not specified if it is ethanol resistant, there are people that have reported on aircraft forums that it appears to work well with ethanol. Consistency was like a thin past and it injected into the port and flowed well enough that it seemed to fill the pass through housing. Cures in about 72 hours at 77 degrees but it is hot here and I left it outside to cure, so I am guessing that it will probably be ready to go back in the tank in 48 hours. I have some exhaust gaskets on order (since I had to drop the muffler and pipe i decided I would put in a new gasket where the horizontal cylinder goes into the pre-silencer pipe) and new chain and sprockets so it will be four or five days before I can get the bike back on the road, but I did want to let you know again that I appreciate your video. Have an epic day!