Yes, this is still a Best Practice Method. The only addition my crew is doing today is sloping the 2x4 sill in the frame stage so the window sill has a slight 5 degree bevel to the outside. Best, Matt
@myalencephalous Great question! Best practice is to use low expansion foam on three sides of the inside window jamb to wood framing. This insulates and air seals. At the sill we use backer rod and latex caulk to air seal and create a back dam at the sill. Matt Risinger
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
@marc12020 Thanks for the complements! Window installs are super important and taking the time to do them correctly is the right thing to do. My hope is that my blog and videos will help my fellow builders know the steps to doing things the "best practice" way. Matt Risinger
@BigBomber44 Good Point. These windows don't come with jamb extensions so if you're not doing a drywall return you have some extra work for the finish carpenters. By the way, I think a good finish carpenter is worth his weight in GOLD. A well built home can look bad with a poor finish carpentry job, or a decently well built home can be amazing with a great finish carpenter at the tail end. -Matt Risinger
If you wrap it all the way in on the side wind can get behind the wrap and into the house. It's better to cut it halfway into the frame and tape the flap.
@divisioneight Yes FIBREX. My mistake. Marvin Integrity is Fiberglass. I got a tour of the Andersen facility and got to see them make Fibrex, it's amazing. Basically a window version of Trex decking.
Don't forget to slope the sill & back caulk the window. I've seen studies about window leakage over a 20 year period and you'd be shocked at the high percentage of windows that leak over their installed lifetime. I treat all windows the same and assume that they can/may leak over the next 5-50 years. This sill flashing is extremely important and if the client won't pay then I'll pay for it as cheap insurance. What does one leaky window cost a builder in terms of dollars & reputation? Matt R
I think Roofing nails are probably a better option. The point of the horseshoe shims it to allow water that does penetrate the assembly some day to have a way out. The air sealing is done from the inside. The bottom of the window should be caulked with backer rod along with 6" up both bottom sides (to mimic the flex wrap install) that would create a backdam for water and stop air penetration. The rest of the inside of the window should be foamed with low expansion foam to totally air seal.
I like the Marvin All-Ultrex window, it's a similar window to the A100. Use the same exact install method as you see on this video for those windows. This is really a best practice method for nearly all flanged windows. Best, Matt
Crazy how much the install details have changed from Matt’s videos over the years. I doubt he would allow himself to do this kind of window weather proofing today.
@jwbrenna Thanks for the complements! Yes the stucco video is posted too. Goto my MattRisinger user page on UA-cam and you can scroll through all the video's I've posted. Matt
@divisioneight Yes It's Fibrex. My mistake. Amazing product, I got to see it being extruded at the Andersen plant tour I took last year. Great product.
@myalencephalous We don't see many windows with J-channel pre-installed here in Texas. This market has alot of Stucco/Stone/Cement Siding. None of those require J Channel so it's not seen much. When I worked in the North East alot of homes had Vinyl siding that used J Channel. This particular house was a mix of stone & stucco. -Matt Risinger
At times I have been unable to find window tape near a job site install and have used Ice and Water Shield that I had on hand as a substitute. It's worked fine but it amazes me that most hardware/big box stores and some lumber yards don't carry window tape.
I would highly recommend a pan head screw with coating or stainless for flanged door/ window installation. You can make sure you don't overtighten and the removal is so much easier down the road. Seems window replacement is a given. Just about as quick as well. Doug
Butyl based is the only way to go. Asphalt based product will fail in this hot climate. I don't believe Home Depot sells Flexwrap, you'll likely need to buy from a contractor's lumber yard. BMC, McCoys, Stock, ProBuild are all Austin lumberyards that stock it. It comes in sizes for 2x4 or 2x6 walls and I think in 75' lengths. Worth every penny of it's price to avoid water leakage into your house. Windows can & do leak, this sill pan is VERY important.
Most of us on the southern Oregon coast have gone back to using 15# felt instead of Tyvek. I am unsure what is causing the deterioration but, I have done dozens of repairs on leaking window, trim and siding and deteriorated, crumbly Tyvek has been a contributing factor. Possibly overexposure to UV at initial installation? I don't know. We get pretty mild temperatures but, a TON of rain. I dig the flexwrap though....
I also believe felt is better. To be honest, I like a house that breathes some. I know it is better from a heating and cooling standpoint to air seal everything up tight, but I have never opened up an old airy house and had massive rot in the framing. I find this all the time in homes just 10-15 years old with all the tyvek and vapor barriers.
I agree 100%! I'm near Seattle and do all kinds of remodels on older homes and warranty work for new home builders. Homes with Tyvek almost always have LOTS of moisture trapped inside the wall cavity or on the outside surface of the sheathing. This is even the case with new homes that are a year or two old. Older homes with felt paper are usually as dry as a bone. I decided to use the FortiFlash system on my own house because of what I've personally seen.
For one thing the tyvek should not be warped into the living space and and the flex tap should not applied to the tyvek but to the framing, sheathing and window flange.
Just curious. Are you adhering the flashing onto just the flange part flat/flush with wall OR is it coming onto the side of the window a bit away from the wall? Can't tell from the video. Looks like maybe part of the straight flash makes a slight 45 degrees turn onto the brown part/side. ??? Thanks.
Head flashing tape is supposed to overlap side flashing by a couple inches but these guys are an inch short on each side. Are there any serious implications on the long run?
I did a lot of research and watched many videos on properly flashing and installing new windows. Everything is perfect and was tone to a "T" as you did here. I installed my first 4 windows, two of which are under a porch roof so they will not even be exposed to weather. After doing the first four I realized I forgot a very important part, I forgot to silicone the nailing flange before nailing in the window. I know this is crucial. So my question is should I take the window out or since they have been properly flashed should they be ok? Thanks
Do some windows not need this flashing before setting window? We are building a new home with Ply Gem casement windows and they are not putting any flashing under however plan on using it on top? Is that right?
We are about to start building our house, and we are using Andersen 100 Series casement too. However, our home is going to be mostly brick, some faux stone, and vinyl shake on our dormers. Would the process be the same? Also, could this be an easy DIY project for us, or should we just let our framer do it? We are trying to save money where we can, but we want it done the right way.
The ability for this product to flex really depends on the temperature when being applied.. Product does not flex around corners when cooler outside. Also found that the flex will recoil causing rips where staples went in.
I've heard that taking the house wrap into the sides of the opening could create an issue if water got behind the house wrap as it could run along and get into the sides of the opening. What about cutting the sides of the housewrap just shy of the opening and putting silicone to avoid this problem?
What do you recommend for a contemporary/modern home 10ft ceiling, the rough opening size of a recess window? 3, 4.5, 6 inches?An should I frame it with 2x6 or 2x8? What look better in your opinion?
@mckenziemillermusic; As i recall, Andersen recommends either threaded fasteners or roofing nails (not siding nails) for their window products. I didn't catch what caulking they used. Usually any window or door caulk is doable. THe lapping of the subsill flashing was wrong - I caught that but didn't comment about it.
I've seen several videos on how to install a window. I was particularly impressed with this video. I did notice that you did not flash the bottom of the window but in other videos they did. You did explain why you didn't and I really like the idea of shimming to allow water to drain in case of a leak. In your opinion why do you believe other contractor would flash the bottom?
Do you get into pricing most bang for buck products? What is good slider idea for new home? Interested in wall of windows each panel slides open until you get large opening. What is a good height to order 8 foot high?
Those shims create a gap for ants to nest in. That is also a warm spot so it attracts insects. Letting water out is important and this is a good system for water drainage but insects get into every crack and cranny.
The nails that you use in this video, what size is it( manual nailing) does it require ring shank nail or just regular? And the nails is coated zinc ? Thanks
was there ever a followup video for the stucco install? Also why not use the prefab corners? I don't trust that flex wrap, If that paper below is not spotless clean from dust it will pull away over time , maybe those lower flange nails will hold it.
I don't believe this is a stocked item at the big box stores. Try calling local lumber suppliers. I think that Stock Building Supply is in Houston, or possibly BMC Lumber, or McCoy's Lumber. All three of those in Austin stock FlexWrap. Hope your project goes well. Matt
Matt, I know you are a fan of both the Tyvek Flexwrap for a sill pan and Tamlyn Drain Wrap as a WRB. What about the combination of the two on a new construction project? I understand that this might create warranty issues, but I suspect getting one of these companies to honor a warranty after 10-20 years is unlikely anyway.
you mentioned the possibility that water will get onto the sill, hence the shims providing an escape rout. provided that water does make it to the point that it's setting on the sill i don't see how that (very expensive) tape helps. it could easily just role right back into the house. I have used that flex tape but only to flash round windows. it cost me 150 dollars for a roll. good luck getting your average home owner to spring for that.
i was about to ask if the flex wrap was butyl based but as i was typing it you said as the polybutylene dries... so anyways can i get this at my local home depot? and what sizes do they come in?
Matt, I building my own house in cedar park pretty soon and I am planing to use Plywood for outside sheathing and instead of using Tyvek ,can I spray dow corning elastomeric paint as vapor barrier and use blackfelt over it and do a stucco finish.
great video matt and thanks for posting, learned a lot! I have a brick ranch house in NJ and I just installed new windows using your method. We are also putting a second floor addition on our home but that will be sided with certainteed's insulated siding. I ordered marvin all altex windows and wondering what you recommend on how to flash them to prevent water getting inbetween the siding and windows, or when water does get between how to get it out without traveling all the way down the tyvek?
I would assume they are going to spray foam the inside, and there should have been a top taping before the widow went in instead of just caulk, not to mention after the window went in that top taping is too short, and tyvek now recommends using flashing tape, not tyvek tape on those last two top angle cuts or inserting a mechanical under lap piece of tyvek that is taped. This is a 85/100 install, yet I'd be concerned about no top drip edge, that short tape span on the top, and the triple shims under the window are fine, but under the flashing that is going to lead to cndesation. Also, the shims under the lower flashing void both anderserson and tyvek warranty.
It looks like your sill is dead level. If water gets to the sill what keeps it from draining inside? why not slope the sill so that water drains to the outside?
If the bottom flex is adhered to the tyvek, how do you counterflash the siding?...a course of shingles/clapboard etc. need to tuck underneath the flashing...not sure about vinyl
nice if your using vinyl. I only install hardy board myself with lifetime ppg products. fully sealing the outside. vinyl leaks. hence the weep holes in the bottom of most brands.
Thanks much! Great and infirmative vid! You explain things well. Its been a long time since I installed windows so your vid helped lots! Thanks again! DaveyJO in PA
Looking to build in NV interested in 100 series. How does price compare to say white vinyl. Someone told me 10 to 15 percent higher cost. How are sliders in this series
why wouldnt you put a bead of sealant between the sill and bottom of the window. on the inside of the horseshoe shims.? nothing prevents water from leaking to the inside
Why shim the sill in the middle of the window? BTW - I think the AW100 product is made with Fibrex, not fiberglass. Fibrex is an Andersen made product composed of recycled wood and vinyl shavings bonded together under heat and pressure with a resin.
11 years ago?! Lol. Seeing the last comment made was by me, almost a year ago. As of today, Matt has 859k subs on YT, and is starting to build his following on Tiktok. FYI, when this video was made, Tiktok wasn’t even invented. Nor was the build show.
which low quality replacement window is best out of: 1. Jeld Wen - builders series 2. Crestline - 250 series 3. Andersen - 50 series 4. Pella - 20 series Thanks in advance!!!
Why is the A-100 not on your list? I would eliminate #1, No idea who #2 is, Never heard of the A - 50 series, and have never seen #4. I would eliminate any vinyl from your list. Hope this helps.
@@buildshow50 could be the replacement series. Pella is a solid product (usually) Anderson will cost more than Crestline or Jeld Wen, but worth it? All are very common midwest products.
*Great and Easy to instal **Fastly.Cool** Low noisy*
Yes, this is still a Best Practice Method. The only addition my crew is doing today is sloping the 2x4 sill in the frame stage so the window sill has a slight 5 degree bevel to the outside. Best, Matt
@myalencephalous Great question! Best practice is to use low expansion foam on three sides of the inside window jamb to wood framing. This insulates and air seals. At the sill we use backer rod and latex caulk to air seal and create a back dam at the sill. Matt Risinger
I've been a builder for many years and have seen quite a fair bit of sheds. The plans in ryan's package ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxB7IXYxLzb_Ichhe45zM3Im5xfEiSp9vB have some of the nicest looking sheds i've seen in a while.
This may be an old publication but regardless of all the bizarre comments by viewers this is a Pro Install. All bases covered.
Scratched the new window on the right side because of the nail gun 🤦🏼♂️
It's been a few months since we purchased this a/c and it's one of the best investments we ever made. Works perfectly and quietly.
@marc12020 Thanks for the complements! Window installs are super important and taking the time to do them correctly is the right thing to do. My hope is that my blog and videos will help my fellow builders know the steps to doing things the "best practice" way. Matt Risinger
@BigBomber44 Good Point. These windows don't come with jamb extensions so if you're not doing a drywall return you have some extra work for the finish carpenters. By the way, I think a good finish carpenter is worth his weight in GOLD. A well built home can look bad with a poor finish carpentry job, or a decently well built home can be amazing with a great finish carpenter at the tail end. -Matt Risinger
If you wrap it all the way in on the side wind can get behind the wrap and into the house. It's better to cut it halfway into the frame and tape the flap.
@divisioneight Yes FIBREX. My mistake. Marvin Integrity is Fiberglass. I got a tour of the Andersen facility and got to see them make Fibrex, it's amazing. Basically a window version of Trex decking.
Yes indeed. Same method really for all flanged windows. The A400 has a very nice waterproofing nailing flange. Best, Matt
There are many vids on window installation but this is one shows the correct way.
yes, the nailing flange is the only way to secure these windows. Best of luck with your project. Matt
Don't forget to slope the sill & back caulk the window. I've seen studies about window leakage over a 20 year period and you'd be shocked at the high percentage of windows that leak over their installed lifetime. I treat all windows the same and assume that they can/may leak over the next 5-50 years. This sill flashing is extremely important and if the client won't pay then I'll pay for it as cheap insurance. What does one leaky window cost a builder in terms of dollars & reputation? Matt R
I think Roofing nails are probably a better option. The point of the horseshoe shims it to allow water that does penetrate the assembly some day to have a way out. The air sealing is done from the inside. The bottom of the window should be caulked with backer rod along with 6" up both bottom sides (to mimic the flex wrap install) that would create a backdam for water and stop air penetration. The rest of the inside of the window should be foamed with low expansion foam to totally air seal.
@TheChompeepe Thank you! Always nice to hear positive feedback. Matt Risinger
I like the Marvin All-Ultrex window, it's a similar window to the A100. Use the same exact install method as you see on this video for those windows. This is really a best practice method for nearly all flanged windows. Best, Matt
Crazy how much the install details have changed from Matt’s videos over the years. I doubt he would allow himself to do this kind of window weather proofing today.
This is the best new window install video that I have seen. Thanks!
They still made mistakes
@jwbrenna Thanks for the complements! Yes the stucco video is posted too. Goto my MattRisinger user page on UA-cam and you can scroll through all the video's I've posted. Matt
@divisioneight Yes It's Fibrex. My mistake. Amazing product, I got to see it being extruded at the Andersen plant tour I took last year. Great product.
It's always great to see tips and tricks of the trade from the pros, thanks for the video.
@myalencephalous We don't see many windows with J-channel pre-installed here in Texas. This market has alot of Stucco/Stone/Cement Siding. None of those require J Channel so it's not seen much. When I worked in the North East alot of homes had Vinyl siding that used J Channel. This particular house was a mix of stone & stucco. -Matt Risinger
good to see a builder that tries to do right.
@slomotrainwreck Thanks! -Matt Risinger
At times I have been unable to find window tape near a job site install and have used Ice and Water Shield that I had on hand as a substitute. It's worked fine but it amazes me that most hardware/big box stores and some lumber yards don't carry window tape.
Agreed. You want to source this a few days ahead of the date it's needed I've found. Matt
I would highly recommend a pan head screw with coating or stainless for flanged door/ window installation. You can make sure you don't overtighten and the removal is so much easier down the road. Seems window replacement is a given. Just about as quick as well. Doug
Butyl based is the only way to go. Asphalt based product will fail in this hot climate. I don't believe Home Depot sells Flexwrap, you'll likely need to buy from a contractor's lumber yard. BMC, McCoys, Stock, ProBuild are all Austin lumberyards that stock it. It comes in sizes for 2x4 or 2x6 walls and I think in 75' lengths. Worth every penny of it's price to avoid water leakage into your house. Windows can & do leak, this sill pan is VERY important.
Great job!! one of the best videos Ive seen on window install. Thanks
Nice install. Only thing Recommend is header flashing tp extended past the jambs.
Most of us on the southern Oregon coast have gone back to using 15# felt instead of Tyvek. I am unsure what is causing the deterioration but, I have done dozens of repairs on leaking window, trim and siding and deteriorated, crumbly Tyvek has been a contributing factor. Possibly overexposure to UV at initial installation? I don't know. We get pretty mild temperatures but, a TON of rain. I dig the flexwrap though....
Caleb Johnson - Do you use flexwrap or similar w/ 15# felt? How would that stick?
We still believe that the felt is the best, we used the tape and all is well.
I also believe felt is better. To be honest, I like a house that breathes some. I know it is better from a heating and cooling standpoint to air seal everything up tight, but I have never opened up an old airy house and had massive rot in the framing. I find this all the time in homes just 10-15 years old with all the tyvek and vapor barriers.
I agree 100%! I'm near Seattle and do all kinds of remodels on older homes and warranty work for new home builders. Homes with Tyvek almost always have LOTS of moisture trapped inside the wall cavity or on the outside surface of the sheathing. This is even the case with new homes that are a year or two old. Older homes with felt paper are usually as dry as a bone. I decided to use the FortiFlash system on my own house because of what I've personally seen.
For one thing the tyvek should not be warped into the living space and and the flex tap should not applied to the tyvek but to the framing, sheathing and window flange.
Just curious. Are you adhering the flashing onto just the flange part flat/flush with wall OR is it coming onto the side of the window a bit away from the wall? Can't tell from the video. Looks like maybe part of the straight flash makes a slight 45 degrees turn onto the brown part/side. ??? Thanks.
Head flashing tape is supposed to overlap side flashing by a couple inches but these guys are an inch short on each side. Are there any serious implications on the long run?
I did a lot of research and watched many videos on properly flashing and
installing new windows. Everything is perfect and was tone to a "T" as
you did here. I installed my first 4 windows, two of which are under a
porch roof so they will not even be exposed to weather. After doing the
first four I realized I forgot a very important part, I forgot to
silicone the nailing flange before nailing in the window. I know this is
crucial. So my question is should I take the window out or since they
have been properly flashed should they be ok? Thanks
Do some windows not need this flashing before setting window? We are building a new home with Ply Gem casement windows and they are not putting any flashing under however plan on using it on top? Is that right?
We are about to start building our house, and we are using Andersen 100 Series casement too. However, our home is going to be mostly brick, some faux stone, and vinyl shake on our dormers. Would the process be the same? Also, could this be an easy DIY project for us, or should we just let our framer do it? We are trying to save money where we can, but we want it done the right way.
The ability for this product to flex really depends on the temperature when being applied.. Product does not flex around corners when cooler outside. Also found that the flex will recoil causing rips where staples went in.
Cut the wrap away from the window openings, it allows air to get inside when wrapped around.
I like how it was been installed. Very clean!
I've heard that taking the house wrap into the sides of the opening could create an issue if water got behind the house wrap as it could run along and get into the sides of the opening. What about cutting the sides of the housewrap just shy of the opening and putting silicone to avoid this problem?
@lor332 Glad to do it! There's only one way to do it, the right way!
Installed an addition to a house and had to remove some siding. The Tyvek underneath was the consistency of tissue paper and full of holes…
What do you recommend for a contemporary/modern home 10ft ceiling, the rough opening size of a recess window? 3, 4.5, 6 inches?An should I frame it with 2x6 or 2x8? What look better in your opinion?
@mckenziemillermusic; As i recall, Andersen recommends either threaded fasteners or roofing nails (not siding nails) for their window products. I didn't catch what caulking they used. Usually any window or door caulk is doable. THe lapping of the subsill flashing was wrong - I caught that but didn't comment about it.
I enjoyed this classic video. In those days, air sealing was not a consideration.
I've seen several videos on how to install a window. I was particularly impressed with this video. I did notice that you did not flash the bottom of the window but in other videos they did. You did explain why you didn't and I really like the idea of shimming to allow water to drain in case of a leak. In your opinion why do you believe other contractor would flash the bottom?
Do you get into pricing most bang for buck products? What is good slider idea for new home? Interested in wall of windows each panel slides open until you get large opening. What is a good height to order 8 foot high?
Top tape need to extend at least 1 inch off the sides., im sure you know.
have you made the video that includes flashing and stucco yet? this is one of the best videos I've seen! good job
Hey Matt, I have a home in Florida build with stucco and wanted to know if you had any tips for replacing aluminum single sheet with a vinyl windows
U didn't tape ur plywood seams?
Those shims create a gap for ants to nest in. That is also a warm spot so it attracts insects. Letting water out is important and this is a good system for water drainage but insects get into every crack and cranny.
The nails that you use in this video, what size is it( manual nailing) does it require ring shank nail or just regular? And the nails is coated zinc ? Thanks
Is it worth it to upgrade to the 400 series? Building a home in the Midwest and debating to go 100 or 400... any input
Who’s watching in 2020??
Watching in 2022!!
Now 2023
Watching in 2023 lol
was there ever a followup video for the stucco install? Also why not use the prefab corners? I don't trust that flex wrap, If that paper below is not spotless clean from dust it will pull away over time , maybe those lower flange nails will hold it.
I don't believe this is a stocked item at the big box stores. Try calling local lumber suppliers. I think that Stock Building Supply is in Houston, or possibly BMC Lumber, or McCoy's Lumber. All three of those in Austin stock FlexWrap. Hope your project goes well. Matt
That's acceptable too.
Great video, very thorough and explanation is excellent...
I'd like to see them roll that waterproofing membrane for better adhesion.
Matt, I know you are a fan of both the Tyvek Flexwrap for a sill pan and Tamlyn Drain Wrap as a WRB. What about the combination of the two on a new construction project? I understand that this might create warranty issues, but I suspect getting one of these companies to honor a warranty after 10-20 years is unlikely anyway.
I noticed you did not install a drip cap. Is no drip cap required for a stucco installation of 100 Series windows?
Very well done Matt, great videos !!
you mentioned the possibility that water will get onto the sill, hence the shims providing an escape rout. provided that water does make it to the point that it's setting on the sill i don't see how that (very expensive) tape helps. it could easily just role right back into the house. I have used that flex tape but only to flash round windows. it cost me 150 dollars for a roll. good luck getting your average home owner to spring for that.
Is this method the same for Anderson 400 casement windows with the extended jam
I love that window the 400 series comes with external trim
i was about to ask if the flex wrap was butyl based but as i was typing it you said as the polybutylene dries... so anyways can i get this at my local home depot? and what sizes do they come in?
@ Matt Risinger how your Contruction technics changed. How would you rate this installation now?
Matt,
I building my own house in cedar park pretty soon and I am planing to use Plywood for outside sheathing and instead of using Tyvek ,can I spray dow corning elastomeric paint as vapor barrier and use blackfelt over it and do a stucco finish.
@MattRisinger do you still like this method of window flashing for a new build?
I’m learning!!! Thanks helps me avoid mistakes. 😊
What can I expect for labor cost of installing one small 100 series window / trim into an old home?
great video matt and thanks for posting, learned a lot! I have a brick ranch house in NJ and I just installed new windows using your method. We are also putting a second floor addition on our home but that will be sided with certainteed's insulated siding. I ordered marvin all altex windows and wondering what you recommend on how to flash them to prevent water getting inbetween the siding and windows, or when water does get between how to get it out without traveling all the way down the tyvek?
Great video ..do you have the video on that garage framing thx
With shims on the sill and under the flange for water drainage how bad is the air infiltration or how do you address that?
I would assume they are going to spray foam the inside, and there should have been a top taping before the widow went in instead of just caulk, not to mention after the window went in that top taping is too short, and tyvek now recommends using flashing tape, not tyvek tape on those last two top angle cuts or inserting a mechanical under lap piece of tyvek that is taped.
This is a 85/100 install, yet I'd be concerned about no top drip edge, that short tape span on the top, and the triple shims under the window are fine, but under the flashing that is going to lead to cndesation. Also, the shims under the lower flashing void both anderserson and tyvek warranty.
It looks like your sill is dead level. If water gets to the sill what keeps it from draining inside? why not slope the sill so that water drains to the outside?
I see that you're now a big fan of the ZIP system. Out of the ZIP or Tyvek, which do you prefer? Big fan of your video's BTW.
If the bottom flex is adhered to the tyvek, how do you counterflash the siding?...a course of shingles/clapboard etc. need to tuck underneath the flashing...not sure about vinyl
nice if your using vinyl. I only install hardy board myself with lifetime ppg products. fully sealing the outside. vinyl leaks. hence the weep holes in the bottom of most brands.
Thanks much! Great and infirmative vid! You explain things well. Its been a long time since I installed windows so your vid helped lots! Thanks again! DaveyJO in PA
Well done video, great installation technique. thanks
I like the installation. I need to replace a window in a high rise (5th floor). Can't work on the outside.
We have rain run up the bottom uncaulked flange
Looking to build in NV interested in 100 series. How does price compare to say white vinyl. Someone told me 10 to 15 percent higher cost. How are sliders in this series
why wouldnt you put a bead of sealant between the sill and bottom of the window. on the inside of the horseshoe shims.? nothing prevents water from leaking to the inside
I wouldn't hold the horseshoe shim while firing so close by with my nail gun (5:07 - 5:17). I try never to get that attached to my work.
Good point! Matt
Why shim the sill in the middle of the window?
BTW - I think the AW100 product is made with Fibrex, not fiberglass. Fibrex is an Andersen made product composed of recycled wood and vinyl shavings bonded together under heat and pressure with a resin.
No drip cap?
11 years ago?! Lol. Seeing the last comment made was by me, almost a year ago. As of today, Matt has 859k subs on YT, and is starting to build his following on Tiktok. FYI, when this video was made, Tiktok wasn’t even invented. Nor was the build show.
I'm not sure I understand the question? Matt
which low quality replacement window is best out of:
1. Jeld Wen - builders series
2. Crestline - 250 series
3. Andersen - 50 series
4. Pella - 20 series
Thanks in advance!!!
Why is the A-100 not on your list? I would eliminate #1, No idea who #2 is, Never heard of the A - 50 series, and have never seen #4. I would eliminate any vinyl from your list. Hope this helps.
Matt Risinger Just selling the 100 series to my builders and so far they really like them. No problems and the great warranty Andersen offers.
@@buildshow50 could be the replacement series. Pella is a solid product (usually) Anderson will cost more than Crestline or Jeld Wen, but worth it? All are very common midwest products.
Is this method of installing windows still the most modern? (Seeing that this video was uploaded over three years ago)
Matt
can you paint polystyrene in a basement, with dry lock laytex?
hey Matt are you guys in the dutchess county ny area might have window replacement job to be done lmk if your a local ny guy
AyrabMoneyWolf
With that accent you think he might be in NY...?
@DeathZero4 oh and how thick is the flex wrap?
Where do I get this Flexwrap product? I've looked at almost every Lowes in the Houston area....
@ 9:25. “We got to make it Idiot-proof. No offense guys”. Nice!
use a roller?
How do you keep the drafts down if you didn't tape the top head tyvex to the DuPont head flashing
Great video! Quick question how much do the installers earn? And do they get paid per hour or per window they install??
Depends you want it done right you pay to have it done right
Matt, what size are the horseshoe shims?
David Feldman I use the 1/8" thick Horseshoe Red shims most often. amzn.to/1rwqnZO