@@buildshow European windows are not tested to US air and water standards as wind and water are much more extreme than Europe. Architects typically are clueless on envelope sealing and air and water tightness. Steve relies on tapes that seem positive on the application, but will eventually fail in adhesion vs stepping water control.
@@newsnowadirondacksredux360 They could encase it with architectural sheet metal methods, the UA-cam channel "architectural sheet metal 101" is a pretty decent resource for learning to fold. Really though the tape should last a while if not punctured, it's not exposed to UV rays, and Steve said the weather is pretty good where that house is.
This is pure holy grail of knowledge. Matt, please take a note and do NOT forget to make part 2 to show us all the details regarding sealing and overall finishing and water proofing. Thank you and Steve.
I read the entire Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan's Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan's Shed Plans.
Nice to hear some common sense about the importance of eave overhangs. Frustratingly, where I live in Australia, our new pending energy code is discouraging eaves and encouraging dark colored walls. You need to come down here and explain a few things to our rule makers.
Hey Matt, Thanks for all amazing tips and content overall. This is coming from South Florida region and here it is primarily a concrete block construction, do you have ability to show how to build airtight homes and best insulation practices for that type of construction?
How do you handle the outside of the window in terms of your cladding? I’m used to flanged windows where you just but your cladding up to the window. I’m trying to wrap my head around that detail.
First time I seen those windows were in 2012 when I visited Switzerland. I wish I had in on my house when I first saw it. Happy to see Matt introducing these to Americans.
I am curious, why does the tape go over the vertical rain screen furring strips on the side of the rough opening? I would have assumed you would install the furring strips after with the zip being the WRB. Is the window flush with the furring strips or the sheathing?
I LOVE EUROPEAN STYLE WINDOWS! I actually looked into buying the right to manufacture a specific design I liked and I realized Americans don’t care or understand windows.
Why are they different? Typically, the air and water performance are less than US standards because the weather conditions are vastly different. I have seen many European windows fail in the test chamber due to nonconformity of the gaskets and drainage principles. EAS sells windows made to European standards not North American. Steve is not a fenestration expert and frankly a novice.
I really hope there is a part two to this. I’d love to see the process of how the exterior trim is applied and sealed to the window especially along the bottom.
The reason why there are very little standard sized windows in Europe is that most of new windows are installed in old buildings and they don't have uniform window openings. Many buildings are over 130 years old. Additionally nearly all new windows have roll up binders built in.
In Germany all our windows open, so we can install just the frame without heavy glass. We then level the bottom on some shims, hold the sides plumb and fix the window in position with the designated full thread screws from the inside of the frame. Foam, tape and done.
Interesting, my 120 yr old house had new windows installed in 1978: they're all wood, flips open for cleaning and airing, and are relatively energy efficient as they have doble glass filled with argon gass in the vacuum. Still better than any modern US made windows?? (I live in Norway).
I really want to see the flashing detail in the outside. How do you span the gap? Do you flash directly to the window, across the foam, and on to the wood? I did some with liquid flashing this way, but I want to see you guys do it
I’m doing a similar install with flangeless windows, but I’m recessing them so the frames will be flush with my interior drywall. My installer is recommending stainless steel sill pans on all 20+ windows which seems like overkill to me and very costly. The windows sit on the back dam and I’ll slope the sills in front just like Steve said he was going to do. I also have large eaves ranging from 2’ to 5’. Should I overrule the window guy?
1:03 - Are you sure in Europe if you said, "I want a window that's four feet, three and one eighth" they wouldn't just sneer at you and tell you to learn the metric system? 🙃
The windows used in the US (even the high end ones) are like something from the 1800's in comparison to the European tilt turn windows. They are pricey but you get what you pay for. I have used several US made brands including Anderson (horrible) and Hurd and Pella (much better) but even the Hurd and Pella is not even in the same league as the European windows. I am now changing 8 windows and will change the rest as $$ allows
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Agreed. One of my coworkers got quotes for triple pane all wood windows from Fenstur Windows and they were amazingly affordable. They were cost competitive to American windows and cheaper in some cases. All for a much better window. I really don't see a reason to use American style windows anymore.
@@BenWolkWeiss Fenstur are Canadian though. Although they are of great quality they are still 15-20% more expensive than equivalent or even slightly better European made from Italy or Spain. In Italy and Spain, and I would add central Europe, they produce some of the best wood & alu clad windows in the world. Also Fenstur at the moment has a very long lead time of over 6 months. From Europe you get wood and aluminum at 3 months lead time and ePVC in less than 8 weeks.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I second that. I normally get quotes for ePVC, Alu and Wood Alu Clad, with shipping included which are 20% less expensive than domestic windows.
Here in the UK, it’s common practice, with timber framed walls and that style of window, to wrap the membrane inside the window opening and staple it around the inner edge of wall to protect the timber window surround from any water intrusion.
That's no different than how it's framed in the USA, in this case instead of house wrap they're using ZIP sheathing which is OSB (plywood made from wood chips) that's coated with a weather barrier on it so it's integral to the sheathing. Even when wrapping to the inside that doesn't really protect the wood as you usually cut diagonally from the corners so it's always unprotected there and that's also generally where windows will leak water. The stretch tape on the bottom will adhere directly to the wood so there's no gaps where water can flow underneath it and I think they said they were going to be adding additional flashing shingled on top of the zip tape so it's way more protected than the traditional fold of house wrap stapled to the inside.
I live in Europe as a native Californian and it amazes me how temporary our homes in the US are vs in Europe or in fact most other countries. Europeans tell me stories of when they visited the US and being a soar using cardboard (Sheetrock) for almost everything. They also are confused by our measurements 2”x4” isn’t really that size. Lol
I just finished my UPVC window and door installs. You can use Tilt and Turn profiles as doors. I have one for the laundry but people use them on their balcony. I chose Aluplast
Would love to find out more about the pluses and minuses of installing windows in the middle of walls vs. the outside or inside. Is there an existing video you can point me to, or is a new video forthcoming on this subject? I'm in the process of installing "European windows" on my house (I live in Europe and we don't call them that here), and since I'm trying to get my house as close to passive house standards as possible, I'd love to make sure my new windows are installed at the right depth from the exterior wall surface. Thanks in advance!
Videos like this one feel like they are cut a bit short, e.g. the taping that was discussed at the end but not shown. Posting a follow-up video to each of these that's not a production video but hits on these details would be nice. One option in UA-cam is to publish a public video but not syndicate it out to your subscribers on the subs feed or via notifications (if you'd like to keep the "production" videos be the ones featured there), so you could then link to that longer video at the end of the "main" one.
SO, lemme guess: His Company is called "Basic Building"....ammmmerrrrite?. This is what American Manufacturers OUGHT to be doing. I wanted/needed Casement type windows & the size constraints were limited because of the size(s) of my 1971 Build Window openings. Go so tired of being told no-can-do & then the exorbitant upcharge for triple-panes.
Contact Enerlux Wndows in Nebraska. Foam filled fiberglass frames. Everything is custom built, they don't have standard sizes. Triple pane is reasonably priced. You can get any glass package that is available from Cardinal. Top quality at a reasonable price. Built in the USA.
Especially the shutter blinds, those are absolutely awesome. Even if I have to install them myself going to have those. I think I read U.S. doesnt use them because of fire and EU uses a lot more cement than our wood frames. Going to Denver just to look at some I think the store sells.
@@wagonwheeldc As a German i think it is worth it. the different mounting methods, the positiv and negativ impact on insulation, fire saftey, automation,... I think there is a lot to talk about. But it might not be easy for an American in America to get someone to talk about all of this.
You made a comment about tape on the inside. What would you suggest or what have you used. As a note love your channel. Thank you both of you. I have just got through installing my. EAS windows and doors. I've got it covered outside, but I did not think about the inside.
Anybody know what US windows have the hangers option? I can't even find them for sale?? I am now trying to find any other window that can use these hangers because I am doing a replacement into brick. Help please.
This is so super super helpful. In continental Europe, most windows are 'in-betweenies' without any flashing. They mainly rely on caulking to prevent water seep in between the window frame and the wall. These inevitably get some moisture or water seepage in bottom corners during windy rains. Any tips on how to prevent such seepages from bottom corners without removing the windows entirely and reinstall over tape flashing?
@buildshow Would there be a benefit to securing the mounting clips facing the outside of the window frame for a mid-frame install? If I build using ICF @FoxBlocks 8" core, I'll have a 14" deep frame (with exterior furring).
I was wondering why you would install a high quality european window, without any means to open it? Should‘n there be this shut-tilt-open option available? But then it dawned on me: AC! Nobody opens a window in Texas.
Maybe ok for use in contemporary homes where the fenestration doesn't matter so much, but really large expanses of glass doesn't work well with traditional architecture.
Just because on that example they use modern style windows, doesn‘t mean you don‘t get those in traditional style. E.g. you can order them with lattice, integrated or added on top of the glas. You get also wood windows with triple glas - cheaper and with better insulation values then the on in the video.
Aluminum frame and triple glazed glass and pretty big window , i bet that was heavy I did work with windows in Europe , but always installed it in a brick walls and really thick ones but with these wooden frame houses it looks harder just becose of the water isolation. in here the biggiest pain was always a older house that had like these double windows and really thick walls , so you cut into the huge wooden frame of the window then use crowbar to break it out in the end the result is very nice becose you have that huge inside parapet that you can use for flowers or even sit there and talk with neibour if you are at ground level :D
in the minute 16:01 you see the aluminium frame composed of the outer frame and the inner frame(of closest to the glass. We have these type of windows , we have draught entering the house through this gap. terrible thing anyone got an idea about how to solve it?
Nice! But how would you have finished the outside if you weren't doing a "barrier" method? Three sided tap with none at the bottom and backeerod with caulk on the inside?
Some US window makers have adopted those European style models. So you can get American made "European" windows. They only import the mechanical components, frame and glass are US made. And yes it is very DIY friendly.
I had a contractor installing these windows up here in CO . Seeing that gap between the frame and window made me do a double take 😳Knowing Matt and Steve approve of these clips, etc made me sleep better at night! 😀
Well here in Bulgaria (Eastern Europe) all windows are custom made. Triple glazed PVC is the norm more or less. Here and there ppl go for aluminium with broken heat transfer depending on the budget.
Did he say glass is cheap but frames are expensive? I've always been told if I wanted a big opening it's cheaper if it was broken up with multiple smaller windows which would make it have many more frames.
In America you have of the shelf windows in standard sizes. That means 3 of those standard sized windows are cheaper then the custom build one. That was also explained in the video. In Europe manufacturing is more aligned for custom sized (many old houses and hard to resize the window size) basically there is no standard size for windows. Now cost of production between most common size windows and custom size is not different. only cost of material. As long as you stay below the maximum size for a glass pane, glass is cheap. if you want a 20 foot by 10 foot pane it will become VERY expensive. and the frame is more complex meaning more expensive to produce. Meaning what you remember is true for America, not for Europe.
Do you guys have to install fire cavity closers or barriers around windows and between floors? The UK has gone crazy with this any cavity needs fire closets so even the air space behind cladding/sidings is considered a cavity so you have the confusing state where you have to ventilate the space to prevent condensation but also prevent fire spread! What are you thoughts on it?
We have similar requirements in the US, it's typically known as "fire blocking" here. It's required between floors and no more than 10 feet vertically within certain wall types. A lot of times this blocking serves a dual purpose as both shear/fire blocking and is installed at 8ft on center to allow for edge nailing of the sheathing. Hope this answers your question!
Essve level screw at the bottom and adjufix on the sides, for wooden frames in norway/scandinavia😅 Just remeber to wedge too, if not you are depending on the trim to keep the frame square and in place ..
Omg there are better methods of stabilizing video than adobes warp. Makes you want to projectile vomit at the screen. Use avid. Or Boris fx stabilizer. Or while you shoot using one of the dozens of amazing stabilizers out there on the market. Like DJIs. Heck most decent pro consumer cameras have optical stabilization built into the cameras sensor or and lens. I’m going to go vomit again.
Would be interesting to see how a pocket install is detailed on the outside. These are some of the hardest things to get right. Is there a video you did or recommend?
I've had so many lawsuits where the no flange windows installed over wood frame has caused water intrusion. Very interesting to see a no flange system!
Super appreciate your content Matt, also really appreciate getting emails every Tuesday and Friday. Wealth of knowledge!!!
Appreciate that Ken! Thanks for watching. Together we are changing the expectations for American homes!
@@buildshow European windows are not tested to US air and water standards as wind and water are much more extreme than Europe. Architects typically are clueless on envelope sealing and air and water tightness. Steve relies on tapes that seem positive on the application, but will eventually fail in adhesion vs stepping water control.
@@newsnowadirondacksredux360 They could encase it with architectural sheet metal methods, the UA-cam channel "architectural sheet metal 101" is a pretty decent resource for learning to fold. Really though the tape should last a while if not punctured, it's not exposed to UV rays, and Steve said the weather is pretty good where that house is.
@@newsnowadirondacksredux360 I think this house would rather be blown away by a tornado than something happen to this window
This is pure holy grail of knowledge. Matt, please take a note and do NOT forget to make part 2 to show us all the details regarding sealing and overall finishing and water proofing. Thank you and Steve.
Amen on that!
I read the entire Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGqOCINHE0Z0E5gxzSdNi9NWGugRY5Hm2 Plans and was able to make a shed plan. Using Ryan's Shed Plans alone, the shed itself is great. Where I wish I knew more is with respect to ground preparation and foundations. Maybe that's beyond the scope of Ryan's Shed Plans.
Nice to hear some common sense about the importance of eave overhangs. Frustratingly, where I live in Australia, our new pending energy code is discouraging eaves and encouraging dark colored walls. You need to come down here and explain a few things to our rule makers.
Dark colored walls to retain more heat and help warm the earth?
PLEASE SHOW US THE OUTSIDE FINAL TRIM DETAIL!!!
yeah very interested in seeing how the siding finishes around the window
Hey Matt, Thanks for all amazing tips and content overall. This is coming from South Florida region and here it is primarily a concrete block construction, do you have ability to show how to build airtight homes and best insulation practices for that type of construction?
look at some older episodes if I remember he has a few vids about putting zip over concrete block
Sign have a tape that sticks to window and block, then gets plastered over it.
Siga i meant not sign
How do you handle the outside of the window in terms of your cladding? I’m used to flanged windows where you just but your cladding up to the window. I’m trying to wrap my head around that detail.
10 years ago, I lived nearby Aluprof factory and i wouldn't believe that Polish made windows would be installed in USA.
Here’s to all the homeowners DIYers watching this stuff for fun!
These windows are fixed. Do they use double-hung and casement-style windows?
Tilt turn
First time I seen those windows were in 2012 when I visited Switzerland. I wish I had in on my house when I first saw it.
Happy to see Matt introducing these to Americans.
I am curious, why does the tape go over the vertical rain screen furring strips on the side of the rough opening? I would have assumed you would install the furring strips after with the zip being the WRB. Is the window flush with the furring strips or the sheathing?
"There is innies there are outies".. I've heard that before. Just never when it comes to windows. Lol
I LOVE EUROPEAN STYLE WINDOWS! I actually looked into buying the right to manufacture a specific design I liked and I realized Americans don’t care or understand windows.
This is basically the same as storefront glass
Are the double glaze windows much lighter? Thus reducing shipping costs and making them easier to install.
💯
I've got to say the corner joints finish on the face frame is hideous. I would reject that in a flash and never try to sell it to my customer.
Why are they different? Typically, the air and water performance are less than US standards because the weather conditions are vastly different. I have seen many European windows fail in the test chamber due to nonconformity of the gaskets and drainage principles. EAS sells windows made to European standards not North American. Steve is not a fenestration expert and frankly a novice.
Pella
No, no no. Just wrong on all levels
Awesome. I’d like to see more about how that install finishes with the rain screen
They broke the mold with Steve...architect and building scientist in one package. Superb content guys.
The videos with Steve are my favorites.
@@toddniehaus Mine too lol - Seriously, thank you gents!!
I would also like to see 1) water management method, and 2) how to finish window exterior. Thanks Matt
Coming from the UK, these (well, UPVC) are standard practice - just framed in some for clients on a 2x8 exterior wall with a triple glazed package 😏
We still ride horses to work
@@VideovigilanteUSA they still play soccer
I really hope there is a part two to this. I’d love to see the process of how the exterior trim is applied and sealed to the window especially along the bottom.
Is there any part II? Obviously this was the easy step. Interior and especially exterior finish is the most demanding.
The reason why there are very little standard sized windows in Europe is that most of new windows are installed in old buildings and they don't have uniform window openings. Many buildings are over 130 years old. Additionally nearly all new windows have roll up binders built in.
In Germany all our windows open, so we can install just the frame without heavy glass. We then level the bottom on some shims, hold the sides plumb and fix the window in position with the designated full thread screws from the inside of the frame. Foam, tape and done.
I'm interested in finding out the cost difference and lead times.
Interesting, my 120 yr old house had new windows installed in 1978: they're all wood, flips open for cleaning and airing, and are relatively energy efficient as they have doble glass filled with argon gass in the vacuum. Still better than any modern US made windows?? (I live in Norway).
I really want to see the flashing detail in the outside. How do you span the gap? Do you flash directly to the window, across the foam, and on to the wood? I did some with liquid flashing this way, but I want to see you guys do it
I’m doing a similar install with flangeless windows, but I’m recessing them so the frames will be flush with my interior drywall. My installer is recommending stainless steel sill pans on all 20+ windows which seems like overkill to me and very costly. The windows sit on the back dam and I’ll slope the sills in front just like Steve said he was going to do. I also have large eaves ranging from 2’ to 5’. Should I overrule the window guy?
Yep!
But where will your kitty cats lay down?
Hi! We bought this windows from China and did not come with the clips 😩 where can I buy the clips from?
1:03 - Are you sure in Europe if you said, "I want a window that's four feet, three and one eighth" they wouldn't just sneer at you and tell you to learn the metric system? 🙃
This is Texas!!! lol
sure we do that but we use our own feet to convert
The windows used in the US (even the high end ones) are like something from the 1800's in comparison to the European tilt turn windows. They are pricey but you get what you pay for. I have used several US made brands including Anderson (horrible) and Hurd and Pella (much better) but even the Hurd and Pella is not even in the same league as the European windows. I am now changing 8 windows and will change the rest as $$ allows
They are suprisingly not that costly.....
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Agreed. One of my coworkers got quotes for triple pane all wood windows from Fenstur Windows and they were amazingly affordable. They were cost competitive to American windows and cheaper in some cases. All for a much better window. I really don't see a reason to use American style windows anymore.
@@BenWolkWeiss Fenstur are Canadian though.
Although they are of great quality they are still 15-20% more expensive than equivalent or even slightly better European made from Italy or Spain. In Italy and Spain, and I would add central Europe, they produce some of the best wood & alu clad windows in the world. Also Fenstur at the moment has a very long lead time of over 6 months. From Europe you get wood and aluminum at 3 months lead time and ePVC in less than 8 weeks.
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 I second that.
I normally get quotes for ePVC, Alu and Wood Alu Clad, with shipping included which are 20% less expensive than domestic windows.
Here in the UK, it’s common practice, with timber framed walls and that style of window, to wrap the membrane inside the window opening and staple it around the inner edge of wall to protect the timber window surround from any water intrusion.
That's no different than how it's framed in the USA, in this case instead of house wrap they're using ZIP sheathing which is OSB (plywood made from wood chips) that's coated with a weather barrier on it so it's integral to the sheathing. Even when wrapping to the inside that doesn't really protect the wood as you usually cut diagonally from the corners so it's always unprotected there and that's also generally where windows will leak water. The stretch tape on the bottom will adhere directly to the wood so there's no gaps where water can flow underneath it and I think they said they were going to be adding additional flashing shingled on top of the zip tape so it's way more protected than the traditional fold of house wrap stapled to the inside.
What's up with fiberglass and vinyl windows said to last (only) 30 years? I have wood windows installed in 1927.
Would have been nice to see it being finished instead of talking about it
What profile is it? Alurpof MB-86?
I live in Europe as a native Californian and it amazes me how temporary our homes in the US are vs in Europe or in fact most other countries. Europeans tell me stories of when they visited the US and being a soar using cardboard (Sheetrock) for almost everything. They also are confused by our measurements 2”x4” isn’t really that size. Lol
wtf are you talking about, I'm from Europe and Sheetrock is the norm here. It's just other brand names. Been that way for decades.
I just finished my UPVC window and door installs. You can use Tilt and Turn profiles as doors. I have one for the laundry but people use them on their balcony. I chose Aluplast
Learning building science with each video. Thank you Matt
Would love to find out more about the pluses and minuses of installing windows in the middle of walls vs. the outside or inside. Is there an existing video you can point me to, or is a new video forthcoming on this subject? I'm in the process of installing "European windows" on my house (I live in Europe and we don't call them that here), and since I'm trying to get my house as close to passive house standards as possible, I'd love to make sure my new windows are installed at the right depth from the exterior wall surface. Thanks in advance!
Videos like this one feel like they are cut a bit short, e.g. the taping that was discussed at the end but not shown. Posting a follow-up video to each of these that's not a production video but hits on these details would be nice. One option in UA-cam is to publish a public video but not syndicate it out to your subscribers on the subs feed or via notifications (if you'd like to keep the "production" videos be the ones featured there), so you could then link to that longer video at the end of the "main" one.
Tink Tink..... Tink Tink.... Thud thud. 😂 How did Steve not slap Matt?
SO, lemme guess: His Company is called "Basic Building"....ammmmerrrrite?.
This is what American Manufacturers OUGHT to be doing.
I wanted/needed Casement type windows & the size constraints were limited because of the size(s) of my 1971 Build Window openings.
Go so tired of being told no-can-do & then the exorbitant upcharge for triple-panes.
Contact Enerlux Wndows in Nebraska. Foam filled fiberglass frames. Everything is custom built, they don't have standard sizes. Triple pane is reasonably priced. You can get any glass package that is available from Cardinal. Top quality at a reasonable price. Built in the USA.
could you do a segment on german tilt and turn windows as well as european shutter blinds?
Especially the shutter blinds, those are absolutely awesome. Even if I have to install them myself going to have those. I think I read U.S. doesnt use them because of fire and EU uses a lot more cement than our wood frames. Going to Denver just to look at some I think the store sells.
@@wagonwheeldc As a German i think it is worth it. the different mounting methods, the positiv and negativ impact on insulation, fire saftey, automation,... I think there is a lot to talk about.
But it might not be easy for an American in America to get someone to talk about all of this.
Has anyone used this style as a replacement window given they have no flanges?
I lived two years in Switzerland and experienced the simple pleasure of European doors and windows. Vastly superior to their American counterparts.
You made a comment about tape on the inside. What would you suggest or what have you used. As a note love your channel. Thank you both of you. I have just got through installing my. EAS windows and doors. I've got it covered outside, but I did not think about the inside.
A different view on windows.
What do you do when there is a broken window?
We love Steve Baczek! Super shaky camera was nauseating.
Lol, off camera Matt: " No!!! On the build show, thats my part!!!".
Anybody know what US windows have the hangers option? I can't even find them for sale??
I am now trying to find any other window that can use these hangers because I am doing a replacement into brick. Help please.
This is so super super helpful. In continental Europe, most windows are 'in-betweenies' without any flashing. They mainly rely on caulking to prevent water seep in between the window frame and the wall. These inevitably get some moisture or water seepage in bottom corners during windy rains. Any tips on how to prevent such seepages from bottom corners without removing the windows entirely and reinstall over tape flashing?
@buildshow Would there be a benefit to securing the mounting clips facing the outside of the window frame for a mid-frame install? If I build using ICF @FoxBlocks 8" core, I'll have a 14" deep frame (with exterior furring).
I’ve never installed these windows but European style tilt turns are becoming my favorite for when I self build.
I was wondering why you would install a high quality european window, without any means to open it? Should‘n there be this shut-tilt-open option available? But then it dawned on me: AC! Nobody opens a window in Texas.
I need to see the final finish of that install in and out.
If anyone is interested in purchasing euro windows like this let me know. I can get aluminum, alu clad or upvc
Maybe ok for use in contemporary homes where the fenestration doesn't matter so much, but really large expanses of glass doesn't work well with traditional architecture.
Then use stick on strips to make them look like seperate (inefficient) windows.
Just because on that example they use modern style windows, doesn‘t mean you don‘t get those in traditional style. E.g. you can order them with lattice, integrated or added on top of the glas. You get also wood windows with triple glas - cheaper and with better insulation values then the on in the video.
Much nicer windows with Alu outside and wood inside, in Europe. Danke, Herr Risinger. :)
Aluminum frame and triple glazed glass and pretty big window , i bet that was heavy
I did work with windows in Europe , but always installed it in a brick walls and really thick ones but with these wooden frame houses it looks harder just becose of the water isolation.
in here the biggiest pain was always a older house that had like these double windows and really thick walls , so you cut into the huge wooden frame of the window then use crowbar to break it out
in the end the result is very nice becose you have that huge inside parapet that you can use for flowers or even sit there and talk with neibour if you are at ground level :D
in the minute 16:01 you see the aluminium frame composed of the outer frame and the inner frame(of closest to the glass. We have these type of windows , we have draught entering the house through this gap. terrible thing anyone got an idea about how to solve it?
I wish to see the process on exterior too!
How the window look and is finished on outside.
Do you have any link that I can check on it?
Europe mogs the USA again, now go do Amsterdam and do a video on biking! tax deductible!
What is the size on the rough opening? is it a 1/2" all the way around? hard to tell from the video
Very much tell. Very little show. I hope one day I'll be able to see the details instead of just hearing about them.
LOL, ON THE BUILD SHOW!!!!
Nice! But how would you have finished the outside if you weren't doing a "barrier" method? Three sided tap with none at the bottom and backeerod with caulk on the inside?
They are good for ICF recessed windows.
Seems great for renovating. Is that "European Architecture Supply" friendly to DIY? Or is there an alternative/American version?
Some US window makers have adopted those European style models. So you can get American made "European" windows. They only import the mechanical components, frame and glass are US made.
And yes it is very DIY friendly.
A Storefront System
Update: I'm working with Seemray in Cleveland OH; so far so good. Everyone else I tried wouldn't service my 'small' 12 window order.
nice to see some domestic-to-me products on this channel (from Poland)
I had a contractor installing these windows up here in CO . Seeing that gap between the frame and window made me do a double take 😳Knowing Matt and Steve approve of these clips, etc made me sleep better at night! 😀
Are these Miami Dade rated for hurricanes?
Good question...
When you do an entire college dorm building with these and they are large they really suck
super informative. Thanks guys great work.
The Build Show With Gusto,Killer ending and Video...👍👍
Love It!!!
Does anybody know where to get the window clips for these type of windows?
4by 6 window, do you allow for 1/8 inch for a tight fit?
where can I purchase the metal strap that secure the windows to the frame?
great video; I made this design choice 5 years ago without much real knowledge or experience and now I actually learned that I got it right.
Where do they get window clips for install please
In Europe they are all triple glazed, and every window is made to size to order? Wow, I'm living in the wrong Europe
Well here in Bulgaria (Eastern Europe) all windows are custom made. Triple glazed PVC is the norm more or less. Here and there ppl go for aluminium with broken heat transfer depending on the budget.
Did he say glass is cheap but frames are expensive? I've always been told if I wanted a big opening it's cheaper if it was broken up with multiple smaller windows which would make it have many more frames.
Not true for European windows, a 9'w X 5'h window is way cheaper than (3) 3'w X 5'h
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 Hmmm I guess I'll have to price out Euro windows on my house then.
In America you have of the shelf windows in standard sizes. That means 3 of those standard sized windows are cheaper then the custom build one. That was also explained in the video.
In Europe manufacturing is more aligned for custom sized (many old houses and hard to resize the window size) basically there is no standard size for windows. Now cost of production between most common size windows and custom size is not different. only cost of material. As long as you stay below the maximum size for a glass pane, glass is cheap. if you want a 20 foot by 10 foot pane it will become VERY expensive. and the frame is more complex meaning more expensive to produce.
Meaning what you remember is true for America, not for Europe.
Amazing content ! Well done !
Do you guys have to install fire cavity closers or barriers around windows and between floors? The UK has gone crazy with this any cavity needs fire closets so even the air space behind cladding/sidings is considered a cavity so you have the confusing state where you have to ventilate the space to prevent condensation but also prevent fire spread! What are you thoughts on it?
We have similar requirements in the US, it's typically known as "fire blocking" here. It's required between floors and no more than 10 feet vertically within certain wall types. A lot of times this blocking serves a dual purpose as both shear/fire blocking and is installed at 8ft on center to allow for edge nailing of the sheathing. Hope this answers your question!
So is this instead of screwing the windows in through the frame?
Yes.
Steve, Matt,
I just love all the deep details!
Well done!
Cheers, Eric
Essve level screw at the bottom and adjufix on the sides, for wooden frames in norway/scandinavia😅 Just remeber to wedge too, if not you are depending on the trim to keep the frame square and in place ..
translation plz
What a beauty video 👍
That outro shattered some windows🤣
Omg there are better methods of stabilizing video than adobes warp. Makes you want to projectile vomit at the screen. Use avid. Or Boris fx stabilizer. Or while you shoot using one of the dozens of amazing stabilizers out there on the market. Like DJIs. Heck most decent pro consumer cameras have optical stabilization built into the cameras sensor or and lens. I’m going to go vomit again.
Great content like always Matt! Something seems up with your camera though. It’s crazy shaky.
me too! is too shaky! I just listen!
do you caulk the trim on both sides? to the window and to the siding? I would love to see a bread down of a finished install
Would be interesting to see how a pocket install is detailed on the outside. These are some of the hardest things to get right. Is there a video you did or recommend?
Go check out the video Matt did at the Pond House II of mine, where the windows were inside the RO
Another great video Matt
Keep up the great work
I've had so many lawsuits where the no flange windows installed over wood frame has caused water intrusion. Very interesting to see a no flange system!
That has everything to do with weather seal and barrier layers.
I have water tested very many of my installs and never have had a leak......