Thanks for the informative video! Funny thing, with Sumiko carts, like my Blackbird, they actually instruct you to have the tone arm tilting upwards, so that the base of the tonearm is below the headshell. Kinda like the tonearm is looking upwards, with the vantage point being the base of the tonearm. they want -2 degrees of this particular tilt. In fact, according to the Sumiko-manual a perfect horizontal tonearm is never correct. As they say, your should start with tonearm tilting up -2 degrees, and then with miniscule increments increase the height of the tonearm-base to achieve a slightly more horizontal tonearm orientation. My findings is that this is absolutely correct, for tweaking the blackbird atleast. As you move closer and closer towards horizontal tonearm orientation, the sound opens up, the sibiliance region is also increasingly pronounced. This results in a thinner - or colder sound with more emphasis on high frequency content. In contrary - a higher level of negative tilt will produce a more robust, round, warm and 'rolled off' sound. Sumiko even warns about not falling into the "hi-fi trap" while adjusting VTA / SRA - The tendency of wanting a sound with more emphasis on high frequencies - which is a common pitfall, should be avoided. Many would be surprised how the actual correct sound is much warmer and more robust - which at first will be mistaken for being a 'rolled off' or even low-fi sound too many, as they gradually tweak the VTA.
Thank you for recommending this device. I purchased one on Amazon and it was really easy to use to set the azimuth and the VTA. My Graham arm was set up pretty well but I increased the vertical tracking angle by 2.5° to 20 and my records sound even better now. More detail, better tonality and increased sound field up and width. Thanks again.
Excellent demonstration on VTA, and that elusive, esoteric SRA; more precise measurement! I have got to get new prescription for my eyeglasses, anyway.
Thank you for bringing this up. I bought my tool and cartridge weight measurement tool a year ago from Ali Express. very cheep. The perfect vertical angle alignment is to get 90 degrees between needle tip and LP Surface. You can reach that adjustment relatively easy if you keep the following rules: 1) Arm angle is perfectly leveled (parallelly to record surface). 2) Verify that cartridge to head shell and head shell to arm have a perfect mechanical match 3) Cartridge weight is correctly applied (within manufacturer specifications) When all the above are meat, you can rest assure that all angles are correct. One note regarding the bubble level measurement: Great tool, but cartridge's weight calibration has to be done while the device is mounted on top of the head shell. when mechanical adjustment is done and the bubble is removed, you should readjust the cartridge weight.
Thanks for the informative video. This has been something I’ve tried explaining to friends and seems to be often overlooked, but can be quite important for optimal sound and minimal record wear too.
I have a mirror protator . Does nil point so well and VTA shows up on the mirror. One can see the Asmith so ease. And stylus angle can easily see the stylus also
Excellant! I may never run across an acrylic vta gaugue, but its good to have this tool if you do! I am most greatful. So for years i am relatively sure my sonus cartridge was asque with intended abba tracking and Mr. Tretows engineering skill, but i enjoyed them none the less! This infor.ation excellant! Maybe some day i will match R.I.A v ta. But then again, nothing in this world is perfect. Im just glad to know all this!
Trying to do my cartidge alignment, but saw this on you tube .thank you so much for the simple explanation of azimuth vta sra . they are wrong you can teach an ol dog new tricks
you have a lot of info I bought me one of those magnet brushes like you got for anti-static but I didn’t get the one you have it’s too expensive and it works pretty good thanks for the idea
An important distinction between azimuth and VTA/SRA and azimuth is that VTA/SRA is much more of a moving target. Outside of a warped record or something like that, once azimuth is set, it's set. SRA changes with thickness of the LP. So 150g, 180g, 200g etc. will all be different because of the thickness differences in the vinyl. There's no perfect solution period, but if you're obsessive you can mark (at least on my Dynavector 507 tonearm) where the "proper" setting is for each. Or, if you're sane, find a good compromise and forget it.
Hudson HiFi also has an inexpensive acrylic block measuring tool. They also have a kit that includes the acrylic block, a protractor and a digital scale for less than $35. Good stuff.
just saw this vid I have 2 turntables where the tone arm is set right my pro-ject debut 3 especially when i replaced the platter from steel to acrylic the tone arm is even with playing surface my atpl-120 is adjustable and even before i saw this vid i already had vta evrything adjusted cause they can be on this model but what if you have a dual 1237 ,or dual 1009sk or a garrard at-60,or a garrard autoslim mpk 2 or the bsr 610 these are not adjustable ,the dual turntables i have are very good but since they can be used as a stacker there is no way they can be adjusted ,the only thing i could do was for the duals i found a gauge meant for these headshell helps align the stylus 's overhang and i adjusted the alignment ,but thats all but they both sound great is there a way to adjust the tonearm alignment i do not think so JRo
Hi there, thanks for the video and explanation. I have a Technics 1200 MK7 with stock Technics "S" tone arm and head-shell, using a Goldring E3 cartridge. When I use the acrylic block to check the VTA, I am getting conflicting information... when using the head-shell for alignment, it shows that I need to raise the tone arm. Conversely, when I use the tone arm for alignment it shows that I need to lower the tone arm... which should I be using for reference, head-shell or tone arm??
That doesn't seem right, something seems crooked...in any case, since the arm is a bent type, meaning that is more difficult to align I would stick to the headshell.
Hahah, yes, this is really a negative of the Technics S-arm ;) Luckily you found a solution. I ordered one! Looks handy, especially with the bubble. Thanks for the tip. Cheers. /Paul
Shouldn’t you reset the stylus pressure after placing the level on top of the head shell ? Even if the level weighs only one gram it will change the pressure and therefore the height of the cartridge.
Absolute true but alinement with the acrylic tool is better. You don't want to change the tracking force for using this bubble, if your turntable is just a hair of from level count the amount of inaquraty of the bubble on the end of the arm then your further off.
I'm not sure but my SL-D2 arm height is not adjustable so a thin mat would make a big change. I am not looking for this kind of preciseness, just not going far from what I had. This video is great to see, it drives home point of the point (pun). Thanks.
Re. the AT Technihard headshell in the video - can you tell me, is it possible to achieve any cartridge twist (towards the spindle) when aligning with these, as you can do with headshells that have the slots? Just curious. Thanks
I bought the cheapest VTA/azimuth block I could find about two years ago. It was about 3 dollar on eBay (some OEM brand called BUM), so I checked it for accuracy. Used a professional set square to see if the horizontal/vertical lines where all perpendicular and parallel to the surface. I also checked the distance between the lines. Checked the bottom of the block if it's well flat by putting a bubble level on top. I was surprised that it was all okay... accuracy for only 3 bucks. Amazing.
Ow, btw... I've found plenty Ortofon styli that had their stylus incorrectly mounted onto the cantilever (both nude and non-nude styli), so that cartridge parallel to the record at recommended VTF did not produce the right SRA.
@@shahidyt Sent them back to the store for a replacement. Some salesmen go salty when you ask for a replacement and try to deny the issue. A decent USB microscope to take pictures of the issue is very useful for that.
You didn`t mention what to do if you don`t have a headshell with azimuth adjustment and a turntable witH VTA adjustment, which the vast majority of people don`t have. I adjust azimuth with metal washers to put one between a cartridge and a headshell, on the side which is too high. And I adjust VTA with putting two mats on a turntable, or you can just buy thicker mat for smaller carts. Both solutions are not 100% perfect and maybe not appropriate for high end carts, but for an average user, it works.
That's a great explanation. I purchased the unit after seeing your video. However, one thing I didn't understand is how to use the tool to set the arm to the right height to get the correct VTA. Do you use the numbers on the vertical axis? Or do you simply adjust the height of the arm, once the stylus is resting on a record so that the arm/cartridge head are level? Does doing this automatically set the correct VTA? I'd appreciate your thoughts.
Should I put record on turntable and measure like that ? Or Is VTA measured with cartridge lowered onto mat ? I bought thicker mat so I want to check VTA.
Hi My 1229 vintage table is limited to setup precision detail . Cartridge weight , the 2 nil points over hang and getting cartridge straight . No way to get arm to move up and down. So, keeping record clear, keep stylus clean. 1229 has a fantastic gimble Barring , rigid arm, and perfect speed . Do, you hear a much better sound with your turntable
Counterweight is for setting the tracking force of the needle you need to get the correct needle data from your cardridge manufacture brand. The vta is can be adjust for alinement the cardridge.
Hi, I'll try to buy another cartridge, a better one, it will be an Audio Technica AT33EV, but, the VTA of my turntable use a fixed tracking angle of 20°, the VTA of the cartridge is 23° ... What this mean? it is better to stay away from this cartridge? Thank you for your help
Presumably I wouldn't need this for the Rega RB220 tonearm on my Planar 2? Because the headshell is all part of the tonearm and you can't raise or lower the arm anyway... Or would this still be useful??
Will i be able to find the 92 degrees SRA by using your recommended microscope? How does this work? M. Fremer also mentions in a video from 2019 that using the ruler for VTA is completely wrong. I'm confused...
The best way is to use software, like Dr. Feickert. That is 100% reliable. The same Michal Fremer said that a ruler is a good starting point but absolute precision is obtained only via computer software. Yes, the microscope is an excellent tool if you are using the ruler with SRA or trying to empirically measure the 92° angle.
Differences in how thick an album is changes the rake so I don't worry about it. Cannot tell any difference in sound going from one extreme VTA to the other on my Technics sl 1200 with ortofon 2m black cartridge.
Great video about the adjustments. Now I have to be honest, I do not hear the difference when the VTA or SRA is wrong (Azimuth is a different story). Does that make me a lesser audio guy? I have no idea.
Bel video visto che spieghi il vta che il braccio del giradischi dev'essere perfettamente in orizzontale tra il fulcro e le testina il mio giradischi thorens td 316 non si può regolare il vta ma una pendenza verso la testina di circa mm 1, 5 può essere tollerabile o posso mettere uno spessore tra conchiglia e testina puoi dirmi come posso rimediare ti seguo sempre un saluto alla prossima
You should do a video on how to electronically measure minimize cross talk with percise adjustments and use a microscope/oscilloscope and all that after using the regular acrylic tools like you say in the description, you should make a detailed video for people who want to be super anal about it to that extent but don't know how or where to start or what to look up. I'd be that kind of guy to go above and beyond if someone would go over the process step by step, being an audiophile for me is a form of ocd as well, everything has to be as physically perfect as humanly possible lmao.
Very nice! Love the on air and reflection of looks great. Also we could use the itty bitty bubble level to, as you mentioned in previous video(s) to check turntable and other components, I’m sure some people even check there speakers too, right?
@@anadialog I have the V1 unit. Does the job but it’s very sensitive. Will get you pretty close without relying on your eyes. Just saw the V2 online, hopefully it’s more accurate than the V1.
I own The Oracle Delphi Mark V {Anniversary Edition} Turntable. It's all laid out in Gold Trim , with the Black African Granite Base. & on it, I have a Graham Engineering Uni-Pivot 1.5 Tone Arm. The Cartridge is a Benz ~Micro (Glider). I've never had my table / Tone Arm & Cart Tweaked ? Not sure ? I know how to do this ? Wished someone would run a video on You Tube to show this set up done properly ? Any Tech's out there, that do House Calls ? Mike L.
Yap! Nice tool to have. I think you can go even cheaper! A friend with a laser machine, a Corel or CAD software already on the computer and you go for 5 cents! 😎 Of course, no bubbles for you 😁
I’m a novice when it comes to turntable and stylus setup. I have checked angles and all look good and the TT is properly levelled. But I have an issue between tracks, between the end of a track and the start of another track there is an awful rake/grinding sound. I’m worried that I’m damaging my record and styli. Perhaps I should hit a forum to ask the question. In fact I’ll google it first, I can’t be the only one who has experienced this
@@anadialog Knowledgable friend, you was right, the tracking force was over 4 grams, over double the recommended. I’ve adjusted the weight, checked the squareness of the cartridge and that the head shell is level. The sound between tracks has gone. I had changed the valves in my phono stage from Svetlana to Millard reissue (12AX7) either the Millard burnt in or the tracking force adjustment has taken the edginess of the treble. Thank you, I’m a happy man
Likely to be have been mentioned elsewhere (in another comment) but "azimuth" must be set relative to the diamond shank (needle-point) - *NOT* the cartridge body. Using the "body" (as these tools do) does not guarantee any degree of accuracy, as you have no way of knowing if the manufacturer has the quality control to make the diamond shank and diamond surfaces perpendicular to the cartridge body.. Better techniques exist, such as using a test-record with a one 1Khz sine-wave cut in in one channel [left then right] with equal amplitude and then measuring the "cross-talk" bleed-through to the opposing channel (using an o'scope -- or capturing as a *.wav and using digital tools to measure). At best, what is shown here is a "guesstimate" -- just a tad better than ogling it with the naked eye.
You are correct but done by the naked eye and with budget gear this is pretty accurate. In fact for perfect azimuth setting I use this, which confirmed that the naked eye allignment was correct: ua-cam.com/video/is5o6xuyLaI/v-deo.html&feature=share9
I take no pleasure in saying this but... that tool is only effective if the cartridge is manufactured perfectly, which it isn't in many cases. The only proper way to set the stylus rake angle is to use a microscope and some kind of tracing software, where you can get to 92 degrees. It is at that point where you can make minor adjustments to see if it improves. The old "have the tonearm be level" trick isn't actually setting a proper stylus rake angle in oh too many cases.
If you really want to get this correct.....Michael Fremer has a UA-cam vid on a microscope and a software program that allows you to set the SRA to the correct 92 degrees. Eyes & ears don't get it. The more expensive your MC cart, the more you need the gizmo he illustrates. Also don't assume that your diamond tip is glued exactly perpendicular to the cantilever...many are not. And so if not.....using the cart body against this line gauge you're showing will not get you there either.
The following is not "in the weeds" but a correction to major flaws in this video by an Acoustics guy. 9:40 Skip to here. That first garbage acrylic one is ONLY for the azimuth of your cartridge and the whole discussion starting here 5:00 is as faulty as a "flat earther" doing a TED talk. The diagram shown is garbage, the discussion of the diagram is garbage, and nothing there tells you anything right. If you must know, that gauge is measuring how high your tone arm is from the platter, not the SRA or VTA, and *this height is something you note when you swap cartridges.* The only proper use of this (first acrylic is an azimuth gauge), is to note the exact height of the tone arm before and after cartridge swaps.. and if the difference is measurable you may need to adjust your VTA.. and this is only possible with an adjustable tone arm (vertical height at the cantilever) on some TT models. You can also shim cartridges, but only SOME cartridges, as Ortofons on a P-type are one-piece and this has nowhere to shim. Further, the "92" degrees is assuming a deflection of 2 degrees in the needle. Needle here is not the antique Victrola term for a stylus, but the component of the stylus which is not the Jewel at the tip. The stylus, when changed, requires all this checking of alignment, just like aligning the front of a car after changing suspension or steering parts. The stylus of 33RPM records is a Needle (the shaft, shaped like a sewing needle), with a Jewel on the tip (which is the consumed part that requires changing the stylus after some hours of use). OK? So every stylus deflects under the tracking weight. Specifically, the Needle bends like a spring, and the "92" means its bending TWO degrees. This varies from about 1.6 to 2.6 with different styli. Its usually in the specs, but regardless, this is why the bubble gauge shown on top is showing a positive lean. If your Azimuth is correct, this bubble level is, like the "tone arm height" mentioned above, only useful for a before/after switch of the same stylus. The "92" is an "always" rule of thumb approximation for a starting point of your SRA. Next is where the critical alignment is done by ear, like tuning a piano. You can align a brand new stylus to perfect sound, then add about .2 degrees for needle warp during the break-in. The needle will permanently bend over time, so this alignment changes, and this is why a new stylus may sound better or worse after a break-in period of 20-50 hours. MANY people discard a still good stylus rather than correct for the critical SRA as a stylus ages. You should check your SRA (unless you have perfect ears to "know") after every 200 hours of play. You will get a "feel" for a model of stylus, if you stick to it for years (several identical styli). Ideally, a serious Vinyl audiophile wants to own an LP in perfect condition, but with a very slight, simple warp, for setting the SRA by ear for a new stylus or shell/stylus. This is a learned skill. You may find that your particular TT, tone arm, cart, and stylus only need .5 degrees when new! The TL;DR is: The poorly explained cheap acrylic tool shown will set your AZIMUTH. This is step one. (This also assumes the stylus is aligned perfectly in the cart, which must be inspected visually as best you can! If its off slightly the azimuth can be compensated. Azimuth error results in notable loss of stereo separation or balance issues. Fine tuning the LRA/SRA is something you must learn by ear, and only possible if able to change it with your TT tone arm height, or with shims (Shims may not add SRA in some carts. An excellent condition LP of the right source material, with a very slight, simple warp is perfect to hear your SRA changing (33.3 times per minute). An "old" stylus may only need a tiny head-shim increase of SRA to correct for another 200-700 hours of use. (Life depends on the specific model) Required SRA to maintain ideal position of the Jewel tip increases through the life of the stylus, with the most change in the "break-in" period. Playing ANY warped record will seriously advance the change to your stylus' SRA. Very mild warping will do almost nothing, while a double warp bent record should only be played if you fully intend to realign the SRA later. Its easy, even fun, to watch the needle bend tracking over a warped record. This is radically changing the SRA in real time, so you should be able to learn to hear the SRA "range" as it goes back and forth. Some jewels are much more affected than others, with some saying the MicroLine is most affected, Conical/Spherical least affected, and Elliptical in the middle. I do not have any professional opinion on that. I can say that while the SRA is going up and down massively on a warped record, it is also changing its tracking weight in that cycle. So the upswing in SRA just as the warp is encountered, leaves the neutral point with extra tracking force, while it crosses the same neutral just on the downside of the warp with very low tracking force. A proper weighted arm may even skip on the downside of the warp, requiring overweight setting to play the disc. Such a disc is much too warped to set your SRA! Notes: Its worth having a "beater" cart around for "saving" old records to Digital that you don't want to wreck your kit playing more than once. Pops and crackle noise are not related to anything going on here, except that seriously heavy dirt should be easily removed with a quick brushing, to protect your stylus. Minor (fine dust the brush doesn't remove) doesn't hurt a stylus, but total removal is a whole thing that can be done with Elmer's glue for digital preservation purposes. Also, for you serious hacks who read this to the end.. you really don't need to shim or pay $1000 for a new TT that can lower its tone arm height. If the arm is metal, you can make visually imperceptible bends to it, which will raise or lower the tip, changing the SRA, even side azimuth. IN FACT, IF YOU MOVE (relocate dwelling) the tone arm will likely get bent in shipping if it bounces around, changing the SRA! You cannot even see a .1 degree bend, but it matters. Generally, every expensive TT has adjustment for SRA, and cheap TTs that don't usually have cheap tone arms that bend nicely.
I was not putting down the "cheap" acrylic azimuth tool, or promoting the crazy expensive one. Either one serves to do a check for azimuth. (personally I trust my eyes, and ears to double check the stereo effect of azimuth, and own nothing like this) The arm level, or head level tools only give you a starting point, as you should set your SRA by ear. So both work equally well. I would not trust either, or the cartridge specs, for where your SRA should be. Only your ears (or someone else's) can do this. You don't need any tool, except a very slightly warped record in otherwise great condition. Center hole should not be offset at all as this completely destroys the subtle changes you are listening for in the SRA. Center hole offset is when the head/cart is moving left and right a little as the record turns. You can and should drill out the center of the record if you get one like this and really want to play it often (and its not valuable). You then get it perfectly aligned to play without swinging the arm, and put a mark with whiteout or sharpie (both sides) at the closest point on the rim of the hole you drilled. This sounds hard but its very easy to figure out and do in practice.
Hi there and thank you for your very rude comment. It’s funny because you talk about flaws and then across your comment you repeat exactly what I said but in a different way. From someone that talks about “needle” instead of cantilever and “bending” instead of compliance I think you should come down from your pedestal, get informed and respect other people without being driven by prejudice and hate. The second part of your comment adds some information, why not do that? Why not produce a useful comment and discussion for the community instead of starting out vomiting hate. Why make up stuff? How lame and sad.
I thought you had like 1.5 million subs & I’d already subscribed to you like two years ago🤔 👍&sub’d. God bless and Rock on!!!🫡 P.s. I finally bought a jelco style carbon fiber head shell with azimuth adjustment. All of the tables/Tonearms I’ve wanted for years with adjustable azimuth in the arm are still out of my reach. One day I’ll have my dream table with a carbon Jelco tonearm & a plinth made of solid marble.🤣😱. P.s.s. - I’m gonna be rocking a NOS Shure M91ED with the real USA made .2x.7 nude styli. I’ve talked to vinyl gurus that said it sounds better than the mighty Jico SAS! Talk about an endorsement. I also have a Nagaoka MP-110 & I’m buying an Audio Technica cart with the microline styli.
![ANA[DIA]LOG](http://yt3.ggpht.com/50CpmGNilS8aoMlarZVhI_GxRDoZdbj4ZgwCMZXg-Rq2PrEvCytlE6RVyLUrNY-rwE_sAlZ1Zw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
Enjoyed your video. Just got into Hi fi and turntables a year ago and this kind of information is invaluable. Thanks from Ireland.
Thank YOU!
Thanks for the informative video!
Funny thing, with Sumiko carts, like my Blackbird, they actually instruct you to have the tone arm tilting upwards, so that the base of the tonearm is below the headshell.
Kinda like the tonearm is looking upwards, with the vantage point being the base of the tonearm.
they want -2 degrees of this particular tilt.
In fact, according to the Sumiko-manual a perfect horizontal tonearm is never correct.
As they say, your should start with tonearm tilting up -2 degrees, and then with miniscule increments increase the height of the tonearm-base to achieve a slightly more horizontal tonearm orientation.
My findings is that this is absolutely correct, for tweaking the blackbird atleast.
As you move closer and closer towards horizontal tonearm orientation, the sound opens up, the sibiliance region is also increasingly pronounced.
This results in a thinner - or colder sound with more emphasis on high frequency content.
In contrary - a higher level of negative tilt will produce a more robust, round, warm and 'rolled off' sound.
Sumiko even warns about not falling into the "hi-fi trap" while adjusting VTA / SRA -
The tendency of wanting a sound with more emphasis on high frequencies - which is a common pitfall, should be avoided.
Many would be surprised how the actual correct sound is much warmer and more robust - which at first will be mistaken for being a 'rolled off' or even low-fi sound too many, as they gradually tweak the VTA.
Thank you for recommending this device. I purchased one on Amazon and it was really easy to use to set the azimuth and the VTA. My Graham arm was set up pretty well but I increased the vertical tracking angle by 2.5° to 20 and my records sound even better now. More detail, better tonality and increased sound field up and width. Thanks again.
Great! Thanks for the feedback!
Excellent demonstration on VTA, and that elusive, esoteric SRA; more precise measurement! I have got to get new prescription for my eyeglasses, anyway.
Thank you for bringing this up. I bought my tool and cartridge weight measurement tool a year ago from Ali Express. very cheep.
The perfect vertical angle alignment is to get 90 degrees between needle tip and LP Surface.
You can reach that adjustment relatively easy if you keep the following rules:
1) Arm angle is perfectly leveled (parallelly to record surface).
2) Verify that cartridge to head shell and head shell to arm have a perfect mechanical match
3) Cartridge weight is correctly applied (within manufacturer specifications)
When all the above are meat, you can rest assure that all angles are correct.
One note regarding the bubble level measurement:
Great tool, but cartridge's weight calibration has to be done while the device is mounted on top of the head shell. when mechanical adjustment is done and the bubble is removed, you should readjust the cartridge weight.
Thanks for the informative video. This has been something I’ve tried explaining to friends and seems to be often overlooked, but can be quite important for optimal sound and minimal record wear too.
Thank YOU Tim!
I have a mirror protator . Does nil point so well and VTA shows up on the mirror. One can see the Asmith so ease. And stylus angle can easily see the stylus also
Excellant! I may never run across an acrylic vta gaugue, but its good to have this tool if you do! I am most greatful. So for years i am relatively sure my sonus cartridge was asque with intended abba tracking and Mr. Tretows engineering skill, but i enjoyed them none the less! This infor.ation excellant! Maybe some day i will match R.I.A v ta. But then again, nothing in this world is perfect. Im just glad to know all this!
Another great video I don't know how I missed this one!!!
Grazie per i link dedicati all'Italia!
L'Elvon mi serve proprio per rimettere in riga il mio Thorens TD280...
So exactly and precisely what I was looking for! I just ordered one. Thank you so much, Guido!
Fantastic video. I’m starting my search for a vintage TT and that in itself is overwhelming. Now once I find one I can set it up. Thank you so much.
Thank you Philip!
nice to see you again. i have that same elvon
Trying to do my cartidge alignment, but saw this on you tube .thank you so much for the simple explanation of azimuth vta sra . they are wrong you can teach an ol dog new tricks
Great!
Thanks a lot for your easy understandable English speaking.
It's my Italian background that helps!
Another great video! You explained this in a very easy to understand way. Thank you for the great information. I love your videos brother...
you have a lot of info I bought me one of those magnet brushes like you got for anti-static but I didn’t get the one you have it’s too expensive and it works pretty good thanks for the idea
Din kanal är både bra och förstående 😎👍🏻👍🏻
Well done and very articulate. You have a flair for instruction. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Cheers 🍻 Greg
Surely the stylus rake angle and vta will change with different record weights?
An important distinction between azimuth and VTA/SRA and azimuth is that VTA/SRA is much more of a moving target. Outside of a warped record or something like that, once azimuth is set, it's set. SRA changes with thickness of the LP. So 150g, 180g, 200g etc. will all be different because of the thickness differences in the vinyl. There's no perfect solution period, but if you're obsessive you can mark (at least on my Dynavector 507 tonearm) where the "proper" setting is for each. Or, if you're sane, find a good compromise and forget it.
Hudson HiFi also has an inexpensive acrylic block measuring tool. They also have a kit that includes the acrylic block, a protractor and a digital scale for less than $35. Good stuff.
Bravo ,interessantissimo .... .già comprato appena finito il video!
Great video as usual.
Thanks for this I always enjoy your videos which have great info and insight.
ok , j'ai mis le traducteur et j'ai bien compris merci encore
Bravo!
just saw this vid I have 2 turntables where the tone arm is set right my pro-ject debut 3 especially when i replaced the platter from steel to acrylic the tone arm is even with playing surface my atpl-120 is adjustable and even before i saw this vid i already had vta evrything adjusted cause they can be on this model but what if you have a dual 1237 ,or dual 1009sk or a garrard at-60,or a garrard autoslim mpk 2 or the bsr 610 these are not adjustable ,the dual turntables i have are very good but since they can be used as a stacker there is no way they can be adjusted ,the only thing i could do was for the duals i found a gauge meant for these headshell helps align the stylus 's overhang and i adjusted the alignment ,but thats all but they both sound great is there a way to adjust the tonearm alignment i do not think so JRo
Excellent video. Always informative. Thank you
Thanks! I like your videos. They 're very clear.
Hi there, thanks for the video and explanation. I have a Technics 1200 MK7 with stock Technics "S" tone arm and head-shell, using a Goldring E3 cartridge. When I use the acrylic block to check the VTA, I am getting conflicting information... when using the head-shell for alignment, it shows that I need to raise the tone arm. Conversely, when I use the tone arm for alignment it shows that I need to lower the tone arm... which should I be using for reference, head-shell or tone arm??
That doesn't seem right, something seems crooked...in any case, since the arm is a bent type, meaning that is more difficult to align I would stick to the headshell.
Appreciate your valuable content and candor.
THANK YOU without this stuff ! WE QUIT
Got one. $3.00n on the bay! Great tool!
Hahah, yes, this is really a negative of the Technics S-arm ;) Luckily you found a solution. I ordered one! Looks handy, especially with the bubble. Thanks for the tip. Cheers. /Paul
Perfect video! Thanks!!!
Awesome. Thank you. Bought!
Very well done my friend!
Thanks GB!
Shouldn’t you reset the stylus pressure after placing the level on top of the head shell ? Even if the level weighs only one gram it will change the pressure and therefore the height of the cartridge.
Yes!
Absolute true but alinement with the acrylic tool is better. You don't want to change the tracking force for using this bubble, if your turntable is just a hair of from level count the amount of inaquraty of the bubble on the end of the arm then your further off.
I really appreciate to your great presentation.
I'm not sure but my SL-D2 arm height is not adjustable so a thin mat would make a big change. I am not looking for this kind of preciseness, just not going far from what I had. This video is great to see, it drives home point of the point (pun). Thanks.
Don't worry, a thin or normal mat won't change much.
@@anadialog I know the sound would be fine but all my LPs were played on this stock mat and I want to keep the same wear tracks.
Thank you for the great information. A great video !!!!
I have a Rega and there isn’t a way to adjust the height, should I use spacers to adjust the tone arm?
For optimal performance, yes. Also try to use different mats for different thicknesses.
Thanks G. I got it via the link.
Gracias,buen vídeo.
Thanks for this tip 🇳🇱
Re. the AT Technihard headshell in the video - can you tell me, is it possible to achieve any cartridge twist (towards the spindle) when aligning with these, as you can do with headshells that have the slots? Just curious. Thanks
Excellent question. This headshell is probably one of the best I ever came across BUT you can't move the cart as you said and they all weigh a ton!
@@anadialog Thank-you for clarifying...
Excellent. Keep it like this
I bought the cheapest VTA/azimuth block I could find about two years ago.
It was about 3 dollar on eBay (some OEM brand called BUM), so I checked it for accuracy.
Used a professional set square to see if the horizontal/vertical lines where all perpendicular and parallel to the surface.
I also checked the distance between the lines. Checked the bottom of the block if it's well flat by putting a bubble level on top.
I was surprised that it was all okay... accuracy for only 3 bucks. Amazing.
Ow, btw... I've found plenty Ortofon styli that had their stylus incorrectly mounted onto the cantilever (both nude and non-nude styli), so that cartridge parallel to the record at recommended VTF did not produce the right SRA.
Oh my! 🤯
@@QoraxAudio so what did you do with the wonky styli? Align the cart so the cantilever was the right angle?
That's what I do...
@@shahidyt Sent them back to the store for a replacement.
Some salesmen go salty when you ask for a replacement and try to deny the issue.
A decent USB microscope to take pictures of the issue is very useful for that.
Excellent instructive informative video explanations!! Thanks for explaining this!!!
You didn`t mention what to do if you don`t have a headshell with azimuth adjustment and a turntable witH VTA adjustment, which the vast majority of people don`t have. I adjust azimuth with metal washers to put one between a cartridge and a headshell, on the side which is too high. And I adjust VTA with putting two mats on a turntable, or you can just buy thicker mat for smaller carts. Both solutions are not 100% perfect and maybe not appropriate for high end carts, but for an average user, it works.
That's a great explanation. I purchased the unit after seeing your video. However, one thing I didn't understand is how to use the tool to set the arm to the right height to get the correct VTA. Do you use the numbers on the vertical axis? Or do you simply adjust the height of the arm, once the stylus is resting on a record so that the arm/cartridge head are level? Does doing this automatically set the correct VTA? I'd appreciate your thoughts.
Yes, it's an approximate solution. Not 100% accurate. I use it to set the arm parallel to the platter while tracking.
Should I put record on turntable and measure like that ? Or Is VTA measured with cartridge lowered onto mat ? I bought thicker mat so I want to check VTA.
With record!
I purchased this gauge from Amazon made by Hudson Hi Fi; made in the USA.
Hi My 1229 vintage table is limited to setup precision detail . Cartridge weight , the 2 nil points over hang and getting cartridge straight . No way to get arm to move up and down. So, keeping record clear, keep stylus clean. 1229 has a fantastic gimble Barring , rigid arm, and perfect speed . Do, you hear a much better sound with your turntable
I have the Music Hall Ikura turntable. Do I raise and lower the arm using the counterweight to level the arm?
Counterweight is for setting the tracking force of the needle you need to get the correct needle data from your cardridge manufacture brand.
The vta is can be adjust for alinement the cardridge.
Nope, just put the tonearm where you want it on top of the record and then lower the little lever near the base of the tonearm to start playing.
Hi, I'll try to buy another cartridge, a better one, it will be an Audio Technica AT33EV, but, the VTA of my turntable use a fixed tracking angle of 20°, the VTA of the cartridge is 23° ... What this mean? it is better to stay away from this cartridge? Thank you for your help
Presumably I wouldn't need this for the Rega RB220 tonearm on my Planar 2? Because the headshell is all part of the tonearm and you can't raise or lower the arm anyway... Or would this still be useful??
Nope, you're right. With no VTA REGULATION there is no sense
Will i be able to find the 92 degrees SRA by using your recommended microscope? How does this work? M. Fremer also mentions in a video from 2019 that using the ruler for VTA is completely wrong. I'm confused...
The best way is to use software, like Dr. Feickert. That is 100% reliable. The same Michal Fremer said that a ruler is a good starting point but absolute precision is obtained only via computer software. Yes, the microscope is an excellent tool if you are using the ruler with SRA or trying to empirically measure the 92° angle.
Differences in how thick an album is changes the rake so I don't worry about it. Cannot tell any difference in sound going from one extreme VTA to the other on my Technics sl 1200 with ortofon 2m black cartridge.
Wew your using Lyra
Great video about the adjustments.
Now I have to be honest, I do not hear the difference when the VTA or SRA is wrong (Azimuth is a different story).
Does that make me a lesser audio guy? I have no idea.
Same here, no difference in the sound. Technics sl 1200 MK5 with ortofon 2m black cartridge.
I don´t find the links...
In the video description! If you are using a phone, you have to click on the small pointing down arrow next to the title to see it
Bel video visto che spieghi il vta che il braccio del giradischi dev'essere perfettamente in orizzontale tra il fulcro e le testina il mio giradischi thorens td 316 non si può regolare il vta ma una pendenza verso la testina di circa mm 1, 5 può essere tollerabile o posso mettere uno spessore tra conchiglia e testina puoi dirmi come posso rimediare ti seguo sempre un saluto alla prossima
You should do a video on how to electronically measure minimize cross talk with percise adjustments and use a microscope/oscilloscope and all that after using the regular acrylic tools like you say in the description, you should make a detailed video for people who want to be super anal about it to that extent but don't know how or where to start or what to look up. I'd be that kind of guy to go above and beyond if someone would go over the process step by step, being an audiophile for me is a form of ocd as well, everything has to be as physically perfect as humanly possible lmao.
Very nice! Love the on air and reflection of looks great. Also we could use the itty bitty bubble level to, as you mentioned in previous video(s) to check turntable and other components, I’m sure some people even check there speakers too, right?
Indeed!
Check out the Fozgometer. Used in combination with a test tone record will give you an accurate way of configuring azimuth.
I saw they made a new model. Have you tried it? The first one was not very accurate.
@@anadialog I have the V1 unit. Does the job but it’s very sensitive. Will get you pretty close without relying on your eyes. Just saw the V2 online, hopefully it’s more accurate than the V1.
I own The Oracle Delphi Mark V {Anniversary Edition} Turntable. It's all laid out in Gold Trim , with the Black African Granite Base. & on it, I have a Graham Engineering Uni-Pivot 1.5 Tone Arm. The Cartridge is a Benz ~Micro (Glider). I've never had my table / Tone Arm & Cart Tweaked ? Not sure ? I know how to do this ? Wished someone would run a video on You Tube to show this set up done properly ? Any Tech's out there, that do House Calls ? Mike L.
Yap! Nice tool to have. I think you can go even cheaper! A friend with a laser machine, a Corel or CAD software already on the computer and you go for 5 cents! 😎 Of course, no bubbles for you 😁
I’m a novice when it comes to turntable and stylus setup. I have checked angles and all look good and the TT is properly levelled. But I have an issue between tracks, between the end of a track and the start of another track there is an awful rake/grinding sound. I’m worried that I’m damaging my record and styli. Perhaps I should hit a forum to ask the question. In fact I’ll google it first, I can’t be the only one who has experienced this
This is very strange...I never heard about this problem. Are you sure the tracking force is right?
@@anadialog Knowledgable friend, you was right, the tracking force was over 4 grams, over double the recommended. I’ve adjusted the weight, checked the squareness of the cartridge and that the head shell is level. The sound between tracks has gone. I had changed the valves in my phono stage from Svetlana to Millard reissue (12AX7) either the Millard burnt in or the tracking force adjustment has taken the edginess of the treble. Thank you, I’m a happy man
Great! Very Glad we solved the problem!
LET’S PROCEED!
Likely to be have been mentioned elsewhere (in another comment) but "azimuth" must be set relative to the diamond shank (needle-point) - *NOT* the cartridge body. Using the "body" (as these tools do) does not guarantee any degree of accuracy, as you have no way of knowing if the manufacturer has the quality control to make the diamond shank and diamond surfaces perpendicular to the cartridge body.. Better techniques exist, such as using a test-record with a one 1Khz sine-wave cut in in one channel [left then right] with equal amplitude and then measuring the "cross-talk" bleed-through to the opposing channel (using an o'scope -- or capturing as a *.wav and using digital tools to measure). At best, what is shown here is a "guesstimate" -- just a tad better than ogling it with the naked eye.
You are correct but done by the naked eye and with budget gear this is pretty accurate. In fact for perfect azimuth setting I use this, which confirmed that the naked eye allignment was correct: ua-cam.com/video/is5o6xuyLaI/v-deo.html&feature=share9
Ah... you didnt show how to use it???
Did you watch all the video?
@@anadialog Yes. I figured it out now.
👌
Very few can adjust a tonearm properly and hardly anyone very high end tonearms
22 degrees. Thats the settting when they CUT the grooves.
I guess thats the best angle?
Well, yes but they actually range usually between 17-22, in fact many go in the middle (20).
I take no pleasure in saying this but... that tool is only effective if the cartridge is manufactured perfectly, which it isn't in many cases. The only proper way to set the stylus rake angle is to use a microscope and some kind of tracing software, where you can get to 92 degrees. It is at that point where you can make minor adjustments to see if it improves. The old "have the tonearm be level" trick isn't actually setting a proper stylus rake angle in oh too many cases.
If we are talking of a precise calibration, yes, I agree.
merci dommage que ce n est pas en français
To me this is all very difficult to accomplish. It depends on your eyes, angle, accuracy. Very difficult to get right if you ask me.
Indeed, for perfection you need more technology.
I'm taking a break.
If you really want to get this correct.....Michael Fremer has a UA-cam vid on a microscope and a software program that allows you to set the SRA to the correct 92 degrees. Eyes & ears don't get it. The more expensive your MC cart, the more you need the gizmo he illustrates. Also don't assume that your diamond tip is glued exactly perpendicular to the cantilever...many are not. And so if not.....using the cart body against this line gauge you're showing will not get you there either.
you say this and that need to be adjusted, but you don't say how actually they are adjusted...so two and a half stars...
Well, clearly by lowering and elevating the tonearm
2.57 sounds like a man in a box.
Ahh yes, the ole vta adjustment.
First
The following is not "in the weeds" but a correction to major flaws in this video by an Acoustics guy.
9:40 Skip to here. That first garbage acrylic one is ONLY for the azimuth of your cartridge and the whole discussion starting here 5:00 is as faulty as a "flat earther" doing a TED talk. The diagram shown is garbage, the discussion of the diagram is garbage, and nothing there tells you anything right. If you must know, that gauge is measuring how high your tone arm is from the platter, not the SRA or VTA, and *this height is something you note when you swap cartridges.* The only proper use of this (first acrylic is an azimuth gauge), is to note the exact height of the tone arm before and after cartridge swaps.. and if the difference is measurable you may need to adjust your VTA.. and this is only possible with an adjustable tone arm (vertical height at the cantilever) on some TT models. You can also shim cartridges, but only SOME cartridges, as Ortofons on a P-type are one-piece and this has nowhere to shim.
Further, the "92" degrees is assuming a deflection of 2 degrees in the needle. Needle here is not the antique Victrola term for a stylus, but the component of the stylus which is not the Jewel at the tip. The stylus, when changed, requires all this checking of alignment, just like aligning the front of a car after changing suspension or steering parts. The stylus of 33RPM records is a Needle (the shaft, shaped like a sewing needle), with a Jewel on the tip (which is the consumed part that requires changing the stylus after some hours of use). OK? So every stylus deflects under the tracking weight. Specifically, the Needle bends like a spring, and the "92" means its bending TWO degrees. This varies from about 1.6 to 2.6 with different styli. Its usually in the specs, but regardless, this is why the bubble gauge shown on top is showing a positive lean. If your Azimuth is correct, this bubble level is, like the "tone arm height" mentioned above, only useful for a before/after switch of the same stylus. The "92" is an "always" rule of thumb approximation for a starting point of your SRA.
Next is where the critical alignment is done by ear, like tuning a piano. You can align a brand new stylus to perfect sound, then add about .2 degrees for needle warp during the break-in. The needle will permanently bend over time, so this alignment changes, and this is why a new stylus may sound better or worse after a break-in period of 20-50 hours. MANY people discard a still good stylus rather than correct for the critical SRA as a stylus ages. You should check your SRA (unless you have perfect ears to "know") after every 200 hours of play. You will get a "feel" for a model of stylus, if you stick to it for years (several identical styli). Ideally, a serious Vinyl audiophile wants to own an LP in perfect condition, but with a very slight, simple warp, for setting the SRA by ear for a new stylus or shell/stylus. This is a learned skill. You may find that your particular TT, tone arm, cart, and stylus only need .5 degrees when new!
The TL;DR is: The poorly explained cheap acrylic tool shown will set your AZIMUTH. This is step one. (This also assumes the stylus is aligned perfectly in the cart, which must be inspected visually as best you can! If its off slightly the azimuth can be compensated. Azimuth error results in notable loss of stereo separation or balance issues. Fine tuning the LRA/SRA is something you must learn by ear, and only possible if able to change it with your TT tone arm height, or with shims (Shims may not add SRA in some carts. An excellent condition LP of the right source material, with a very slight, simple warp is perfect to hear your SRA changing (33.3 times per minute). An "old" stylus may only need a tiny head-shim increase of SRA to correct for another 200-700 hours of use. (Life depends on the specific model) Required SRA to maintain ideal position of the Jewel tip increases through the life of the stylus, with the most change in the "break-in" period.
Playing ANY warped record will seriously advance the change to your stylus' SRA. Very mild warping will do almost nothing, while a double warp bent record should only be played if you fully intend to realign the SRA later. Its easy, even fun, to watch the needle bend tracking over a warped record. This is radically changing the SRA in real time, so you should be able to learn to hear the SRA "range" as it goes back and forth. Some jewels are much more affected than others, with some saying the MicroLine is most affected, Conical/Spherical least affected, and Elliptical in the middle. I do not have any professional opinion on that. I can say that while the SRA is going up and down massively on a warped record, it is also changing its tracking weight in that cycle. So the upswing in SRA just as the warp is encountered, leaves the neutral point with extra tracking force, while it crosses the same neutral just on the downside of the warp with very low tracking force. A proper weighted arm may even skip on the downside of the warp, requiring overweight setting to play the disc. Such a disc is much too warped to set your SRA!
Notes:
Its worth having a "beater" cart around for "saving" old records to Digital that you don't want to wreck your kit playing more than once. Pops and crackle noise are not related to anything going on here, except that seriously heavy dirt should be easily removed with a quick brushing, to protect your stylus. Minor (fine dust the brush doesn't remove) doesn't hurt a stylus, but total removal is a whole thing that can be done with Elmer's glue for digital preservation purposes. Also, for you serious hacks who read this to the end.. you really don't need to shim or pay $1000 for a new TT that can lower its tone arm height. If the arm is metal, you can make visually imperceptible bends to it, which will raise or lower the tip, changing the SRA, even side azimuth. IN FACT, IF YOU MOVE (relocate dwelling) the tone arm will likely get bent in shipping if it bounces around, changing the SRA! You cannot even see a .1 degree bend, but it matters. Generally, every expensive TT has adjustment for SRA, and cheap TTs that don't usually have cheap tone arms that bend nicely.
I was not putting down the "cheap" acrylic azimuth tool, or promoting the crazy expensive one. Either one serves to do a check for azimuth. (personally I trust my eyes, and ears to double check the stereo effect of azimuth, and own nothing like this) The arm level, or head level tools only give you a starting point, as you should set your SRA by ear. So both work equally well. I would not trust either, or the cartridge specs, for where your SRA should be. Only your ears (or someone else's) can do this. You don't need any tool, except a very slightly warped record in otherwise great condition. Center hole should not be offset at all as this completely destroys the subtle changes you are listening for in the SRA.
Center hole offset is when the head/cart is moving left and right a little as the record turns. You can and should drill out the center of the record if you get one like this and really want to play it often (and its not valuable). You then get it perfectly aligned to play without swinging the arm, and put a mark with whiteout or sharpie (both sides) at the closest point on the rim of the hole you drilled. This sounds hard but its very easy to figure out and do in practice.
Hi there and thank you for your very rude comment.
It’s funny because you talk about flaws and then across your comment you repeat exactly what I said but in a different way. From someone that talks about “needle” instead of cantilever and “bending” instead of compliance I think you should come down from your pedestal, get informed and respect other people without being driven by prejudice and hate. The second part of your comment adds some information, why not do that? Why not produce a useful comment and discussion for the community instead of starting out vomiting hate. Why make up stuff? How lame and sad.
People must completely lose their shit over records of different thickness, or warped records.
The audio in this video has too much sibilance.
Sorry about that!
I thought you had like 1.5 million subs & I’d already subscribed to you like two years ago🤔
👍&sub’d.
God bless and Rock on!!!🫡
P.s. I finally bought a jelco style carbon fiber head shell with azimuth adjustment. All of the tables/Tonearms I’ve wanted for years with adjustable azimuth in the arm are still out of my reach. One day I’ll have my dream table with a carbon Jelco tonearm & a plinth made of solid marble.🤣😱.
P.s.s. - I’m gonna be rocking a NOS Shure M91ED with the real USA made .2x.7 nude styli. I’ve talked to vinyl gurus that said it sounds better than the mighty Jico SAS! Talk about an endorsement.
I also have a Nagaoka MP-110 & I’m buying an Audio Technica cart with the microline styli.
Nice!! What can I say, I treat different stuff on my channel and many this variety in content doesn't suit everyone, but thanks for the support!