Menards offered these sashes in vinyl and I bought two for the garden shed project. Your video is being worn out as I've been watching it over and over picking up the details. Thank you!
Very helpful video. Thanks for this. At 8:17 you reachover the spinning table saw blade with your arm. Your sleeved could have gotten caught and your hand and arm would have been pulled into the saw. Be careful!
Great video! Quick question. Your sill is slightly slanted. I think you said at about 10 degrees. So does that mean you also cut the bottom of the window at 10 degrees so it sits flush with the sill plate?
As I've mentioned in comments on other videos on your channel recently, I'm in the middle of a renovation on my house of the bathroom, a small bedroom to laundry room, and 2 small closets to an open "nook" where I will put a custom built bench (based on your kitchen table bench). One of the things specified on my permit by my building department is "safety / tempered" window glass in an existing window on the long wall of the 5ft x 3ft shower. I could not find any indication that the existing glass is tempered, so I ordered a replacement window by Milgard from Home Depot. While we didn't choose the cheapest window and selected their Aluminum series with "Narrow Reed" obscure safety glass, I experienced a bit of sticker shock when I ordered it. I was around $540.00 for the single 24"x36" window. With that kind of price I can totally see why you would opt to build windows for a barn.
Windows are wicked expensive these days. I just priced out some double-hung, six over six windows for a client with an old house--$1100 each. Then I need trim and flashing and foam.
I have the same situation but I’m thinking of caulking the glass into those sashes, pretty sure they will rot quick otherwise how did you finish the exterior?
Wood windows need maintenance, of course. Whether the glass is glazed with an oil based glazing putty or a caulk of some some sort, there will still need to be be a primer coat and two finish coats of paint. If you have a traditional linseed oil glazing you'll use an oil based primer coat and let that dry thoroughly before applying two coats of a good latex paint. Overlap the glass slightly for protection and best to paint or seal the inside too. Keeping water at bay on the exterior should include flashing for sure and window heads of some style if possible, or else a recessed design.
Thanks for posting this. I just bought those same windows for my shed I'm building. I found this video searching for information on building out the frame. My plans are a bit different as they call for the sash to be mounted flush with the front of the frame; it's making it difficult to figure out how to mount the hinges. Do you leave a tiny gap between the bottom of the sash and the sill so the window won't bind as you push it out?
@@enduringcharm Thanks for the info. I've got the first window installed. Could you tell me what that small latch is that you are using? The price they are asking for Storm window stays are almost as expensive as the barn sash window itself! But, I do need a way of keeping it closed. I was considering a small surface bolt.
@@mikebowman1571 Sorry, that part of the video is a little out of focus. Those were just small slide-bolt latches you can find at any hardware store or box store.
@@enduringcharm Thanks! I was thinking that's what it was and actually picked up one yesterday to see if it would work. I may have to make my own plate for the bolt to slide into instead of just a hole in the wood window stop.
I bought these exact windows for a shed I'm building. I filled the grooves in the windows with some ripped down pine stock and plan to mount mine as a casement rather than an awning. I appreciated your video, the thing I'm trying to figure how now is how much wider to make the inside of the jamb than the sash window. Any suggestions? so far, I've not found much by scouring the web. My instinct is the old Pythagorean theorem to get max distance from corner to corner as the window opens.
I'm not sure I follow your question. Typically the jambs will be the width of the wall thickness, or else you'll use extension jambs. Are you asking where to place the window relative to the entire jamb width? I'm not sure that's super critical as long as you are able to get the window to close tightly and it sheds water from the exterior.
Curious to hear if you found anything. I am looking to do the same thing and not quite finding what I am looking for though this is pretty close and great video!
Ipe is a specialty wood that really would not be appropriate in this application. It's very expensive, difficult to work, and difficult to finish. Plus, in small pieces saw cuts can lead to cracks and checking. The best way to make a wood window last is to keep it well painted and sealed and to mount it under an overhang if possible.
hi,..I made a wood window after watching your video. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
That's great to hear, glad it helped!
Thanks for this video. I'm starting the planning on my shed and I think these are a good compromise for nice windows, but not a huge cost.
Menards offered these sashes in vinyl and I bought two for the garden shed project. Your video is being worn out as I've been watching it over and over picking up the details. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. A video with this detail is hard to find.
That’s a great idea. I used those windows in my daughters play house. I mite use ur idea when I build my hobby garage. Thanks
Very helpful video. Thanks for this. At 8:17 you reachover the spinning table saw blade with your arm. Your sleeved could have gotten caught and your hand and arm would have been pulled into the saw. Be careful!
I think the camera angle made it look closer than it was, but thanks.
Great video! Quick question. Your sill is slightly slanted. I think you said at about 10 degrees. So does that mean you also cut the bottom of the window at 10 degrees so it sits flush with the sill plate?
That's right. You want the bottom of the window frame to match the sill for a tight fit.
As I've mentioned in comments on other videos on your channel recently, I'm in the middle of a renovation on my house of the bathroom, a small bedroom to laundry room, and 2 small closets to an open "nook" where I will put a custom built bench (based on your kitchen table bench). One of the things specified on my permit by my building department is "safety / tempered" window glass in an existing window on the long wall of the 5ft x 3ft shower. I could not find any indication that the existing glass is tempered, so I ordered a replacement window by Milgard from Home Depot. While we didn't choose the cheapest window and selected their Aluminum series with "Narrow Reed" obscure safety glass, I experienced a bit of sticker shock when I ordered it. I was around $540.00 for the single 24"x36" window. With that kind of price I can totally see why you would opt to build windows for a barn.
Windows are wicked expensive these days. I just priced out some double-hung, six over six windows for a client with an old house--$1100 each. Then I need trim and flashing and foam.
I have the same situation but I’m thinking of caulking the glass into those sashes, pretty sure they will rot quick otherwise how did you finish the exterior?
Wood windows need maintenance, of course. Whether the glass is glazed with an oil based glazing putty or a caulk of some some sort, there will still need to be be a primer coat and two finish coats of paint. If you have a traditional linseed oil glazing you'll use an oil based primer coat and let that dry thoroughly before applying two coats of a good latex paint. Overlap the glass slightly for protection and best to paint or seal the inside too. Keeping water at bay on the exterior should include flashing for sure and window heads of some style if possible, or else a recessed design.
Thanks for posting this. I just bought those same windows for my shed I'm building. I found this video searching for information on building out the frame. My plans are a bit different as they call for the sash to be mounted flush with the front of the frame; it's making it difficult to figure out how to mount the hinges. Do you leave a tiny gap between the bottom of the sash and the sill so the window won't bind as you push it out?
Rather than surface mount hinges you may want to mound the hinges on the edge of the sashes.
Yeas, you need to leave a gap all around, and you'll want to bevel the bottom to match the sill angle.
@@enduringcharm Thanks for the info. I've got the first window installed. Could you tell me what that small latch is that you are using? The price they are asking for Storm window stays are almost as expensive as the barn sash window itself! But, I do need a way of keeping it closed. I was considering a small surface bolt.
@@mikebowman1571 Sorry, that part of the video is a little out of focus. Those were just small slide-bolt latches you can find at any hardware store or box store.
@@enduringcharm Thanks! I was thinking that's what it was and actually picked up one yesterday to see if it would work. I may have to make my own plate for the bolt to slide into instead of just a hole in the wood window stop.
I bought these exact windows for a shed I'm building. I filled the grooves in the windows with some ripped down pine stock and plan to mount mine as a casement rather than an awning. I appreciated your video, the thing I'm trying to figure how now is how much wider to make the inside of the jamb than the sash window. Any suggestions? so far, I've not found much by scouring the web. My instinct is the old Pythagorean theorem to get max distance from corner to corner as the window opens.
I'm not sure I follow your question. Typically the jambs will be the width of the wall thickness, or else you'll use extension jambs. Are you asking where to place the window relative to the entire jamb width? I'm not sure that's super critical as long as you are able to get the window to close tightly and it sheds water from the exterior.
Curious to hear if you found anything. I am looking to do the same thing and not quite finding what I am looking for though this is pretty close and great video!
If you'd like these windows to last a long long time, would you go with a wood like Ipe?
Ipe is a specialty wood that really would not be appropriate in this application. It's very expensive, difficult to work, and difficult to finish. Plus, in small pieces saw cuts can lead to cracks and checking. The best way to make a wood window last is to keep it well painted and sealed and to mount it under an overhang if possible.
Would you have the name of the store or website from which you bought these windows? Thank you.
shop.americanwindowsonline.com/barn-sash-windows/
Do you remember the company in Texas that made the sash?
I'm sorry, I can't find the info now. If you search "wood window sashes" you'll get some current options, though.
I thought they were made in wisconsin but they don’t really have much info on the website.
Sshhh... The windows have ears 😀