This was great thanks very much for showing your process. I’m from the UK and I’d like to get into repairing and replacing sash windows. A lot of buildings in the UK have old single pane sash windows. I’d like to start a one man business making high quality custom triple glazed wooden sash windows. So thank you, it’s great to watch a pro at work 🙏🙏 take care
This is a very helpful video, thank you very much. I have cleaned up sash windows before, re-glassed, re-glazed, re-painted, but never constructed from scratch. I am about to embark on making replacement sash windows all around my 1908 home and your view is a great reference! Thanks again!
Absolutely beautiful! I am trying to recreate a long gone transom window in our 1891 home. This lesson answers all the questions I have (currently). Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Go to Atlas Preservation for a better example of correct preservation technique. It is not advised to use glue on the sash. Corner joints should be pinned with dowels. There are better products to use for glazing compound. Do more research.
This was a wonderful explanation, thank you, you are highly skilled and impressive, My only question is about the old, wavy, glass, was there no way to salvage and reuse it, I realize that it would be a lengthy process to rescue it, but it was lovely.
I'm doing something similar on an old house. The house is 90 years old and is located in Fremont, CA. Some small differences but the same look and feel as far as construction. Learned a lot thanks!
I've glazed and worked on windows for 45 yrs. I have and ole house now with 40 plus windows, hrs and hrs of work. The thing that rotted ole windows were the neglect of the bottom outside corners when the glazing fell out or got loose. Water enters the joint and in time rot. I love your ability and use of nice tools and sash set. I had a heat gun , 90°with asbestos edges to heat the glazing out,, broken glass only instead of hack out. A diamond shooter for glass set. It's a list art😢. On today's market, freelance what's the price of a average wood window ya think? If you can do windows you can do wood screens🤣. Once had a ole house with heavy gauge copper screens!!. Never ever seen em but once. Great job thank you
Nice job, will be doing similar at the park I work at. Most comments seem to be from people who never sat through a budget meeting and have unlimited money and man hours.
At the risk of sounding picky. I would think as a historic replacement the window would have been reconstructed at least in a similar manor. Typically in window construction glue will fail at some point. A tenon cut from the rail would eliminate one failure point. A mechanical wedge and dowel would hold it in the mortise long after the glue fails. I think it would have been neat to disassemble the old window to get inside the head of the maker and his methods. May have been able to reuse the glass if it made it in tact. Thanks for the video anyway. Sometimes you just want to stick with what you know.
Great video Mike. I hope I can help with a tip on glazing compound. It's called Multi-glaze by Sarco. It's much better than Dap 33. Try it you won't be disappointed.
Considering he was using Dap 33 I thought he worked it very well. I always primed my sashes first. Dap definitely doesn't stick well to the primer! I will try brushing the bare wood with linseed oil on my next glazing project.
I used a paintable silicone caulk on my last window replacement and it sure was easier than glazing compound. They say "sure, glazing compound lasts forever" but, that's not been my experience.
I just restored 9 x 193 year old windows to put in my house restoration. I used allback puddy and it was terrible to work with definitely recommend sarco for anyone reading this.
Fantastic! I always wanted to make my own historically accurate sash windows for my house and not have to pay a fortune for the awful commercial vinyl windows. But I’ve never found any instructional to learn to do it, until now. Will you please do a sequel video on how to make the frames with balances, etc?
The windows in this video have not been done in the historical manner at all. If you actually want to use a construction method that could provide 100 years plus service then buy a copy of W.B Mckay "Joinery". 😊
This guy doesn’t give a damn about the park. He all about the woodcraft and the access to the professional woodworking tools that come with the job. Lmao.
Hi , restorer from the UK, doing exactly this type of work, often on very, very old buildings, firstly excellent work there, but why the use of loose tenons? And a screw? Was a bit surprised at that! And was the timber used cedar? Many thanks for posting, would like to see more.
I have a couple of questions: 1) is the "waste" putty reusable or does it dry out too much in the process and 2) What is the recommended primer? I'd also like to know why boiled linseed oil is better than a primer on the surface of the wood before glazing. Thanks!
@@westsidewil Check these out. ua-cam.com/video/nnYHeVCaGi8/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/DDFLfkayZVg/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/i2lYHvjHG_E/v-deo.html for starters. There are more available depending on the router bit set in use. I have the Freud 99-763 set. Have fun and good luck.
Great job, lots of skills! Coping the sash bars and stiles is really impressive. But is floating tenons and glued joints really historical? I’m no expert, just fixed about a dozen of old windows - tenons were integral and they were only wedged or cross-pinned (that’s why it was possible to fix them). Are these more recent windows or something?
I also was mystified by the use of floating tenons, i have done this type of work often, and we always cut the tenons the same way as the original piece
Great! You said you glue the bejeezus out of it. Do you put glue only mainly on the tenons or also on the abutting surfaces? (I am wondering whether to only glue the tenons and make it easier to take it apart in the future for refurbish, or glue everything because of stability) 8:10
would be faster and better to cut actual tenons and wedge them (using a jig on the table saw ). wedges will hold till the glue dries and you can carry on working on it. also mechanically holds it together should the glue ever fail.
"We're gonna do this the historic way" ...*takes lumber to the industrial thicknesser, bandsaw, tablesaw, and router table with super high quality modern high tech bits and blades* 😂 the outcome is sweet though!
Yes, It's redwood and the growth rings say It's old growth Athough tighter rings of old growth is available. Also no other species available back then could last 100 years.
This isn't historically accurate and is disappointing really. Historic sashes never used glue or floating tenons. Plugs were used sometimes but only on the rails, and they were packed with linseed putty, not glue. And even when they were used it was on saddle joints and not M&T joints. DAP33 is also a terrible glazing compound, especially when you consider historically accurate (and longer lasting) linseed oil glazing putty is still available. The original windows could have been repaired and lasted longer than the new. *shrug*
@@ethanepps5500 It is possible, the only thing rotted was the lower rail and a quarter of each style. If he were to slice off on a diagonal the rotted sections of both styles and use a splice to join a piece of old growth wood to the original, he could've saved 75% of the window and the original glass which he should've used regardless.
The original sashes could have been saved with epoxy resin and splicing where required! I have saved worse! Also the glazing bars do not line up on the new sashes...
this is not a restoration its just a set of mediocre windows. really poorly fitting joints use of wood screws using replacement glass when the original is available use of bog standard PVA (dont mind too much as benefits are significant) use of loose tenons instead of traditional mortise and tenon no linseed putty used no expansion bevels on the joints no full length tenons used for the muntins those windows could have been easily restored and IF necessary new wood grafted in to replace completely rotted out wood. normally dont rant on youtube as its pointless but this crap pisses me off as there is no conservation here at all you may as well have put in PVC windows
Can you imagine the astronomical overhead, salary, benefits and pension costs of a government owned woodworking shop? Subcontract it out. Government should not be making windows.
@@richardmckrell4899 I can see the arguments for and against this guy's project, but he's already a state employee with salary, benefits, and pension. I bid out a custom wood window once and was quoted $700, for something much more simple. I'm not sure there's a cost inefficiency argument here. Your point is well taken though; they should have mentioned the cost of the project done in-house vs. a contractor.
@@rivernet62 The only argument is a cost efficiency argument as this is tax payer money. My business is restoring and making historic wood windows and there is no doubt this state shop is dramatically more expensive. If you add up all the direct and indirect costs of that in-house state shop, the cost of those windows would be astronomical.
I've never been more disappointed by a channel - only one video! Would love to see more of what you do. Cheers
One of the best videos I’ve seen on the subject, amazing craftsmanship
This was great thanks very much for showing your process. I’m from the UK and I’d like to get into repairing and replacing sash windows. A lot of buildings in the UK have old single pane sash windows. I’d like to start a one man business making high quality custom triple glazed wooden sash windows. So thank you, it’s great to watch a pro at work 🙏🙏 take care
This is a very helpful video, thank you very much. I have cleaned up sash windows before, re-glassed, re-glazed, re-painted, but never constructed from scratch. I am about to embark on making replacement sash windows all around my 1908 home and your view is a great reference! Thanks again!
A complete guide to precise window making.Thanks for this amazing session.
I find fantastic to see a gentleman that looks like GI doing fine Restauration woodworking ! Bravo
FRIGGIN' AMAZING production, easily the best I've seen so far on the subject. GREAT job people, many thanks from Chicago, Il.
Absolutely beautiful! I am trying to recreate a long gone transom window in our 1891 home. This lesson answers all the questions I have (currently). Thank you for sharing your knowledge and skills.
Go to Atlas Preservation for a better example of correct preservation technique. It is not advised to use glue on the sash. Corner joints should be pinned with dowels. There are better products to use for glazing compound. Do more research.
This was a wonderful explanation, thank you, you are highly skilled and impressive, My only question is about the old, wavy, glass, was there no way to salvage and reuse it, I realize that it would be a lengthy process to rescue it, but it was lovely.
Dang, that is some beautiful wood to work with! Grain straight as an arrow and not a knot to be found. Very nice!!
I'm doing something similar on an old house. The house is 90 years old and is located in Fremont, CA. Some small differences but the same look and feel as far as construction. Learned a lot thanks!
I've glazed and worked on windows for 45 yrs. I have and ole house now with 40 plus windows, hrs and hrs of work. The thing that rotted ole windows were the neglect of the bottom outside corners when the glazing fell out or got loose. Water enters the joint and in time rot. I love your ability and use of nice tools and sash set. I had a heat gun , 90°with asbestos edges to heat the glazing out,, broken glass only instead of hack out. A diamond shooter for glass set. It's a list art😢. On today's market, freelance what's the price of a average wood window ya think? If you can do windows you can do wood screens🤣. Once had a ole house with heavy gauge copper screens!!. Never ever seen em but once. Great job thank you
Well Done, park service needs more craftsman like you..
Nice job, will be doing similar at the park I work at. Most comments seem to be from people who never sat through a budget meeting and have unlimited money and man hours.
At the risk of sounding picky. I would think as a historic replacement the window would have been reconstructed at least in a similar manor. Typically in window construction glue will fail at some point. A tenon cut from the rail would eliminate one failure point. A mechanical wedge and dowel would hold it in the mortise long after the glue fails. I think it would have been neat to disassemble the old window to get inside the head of the maker and his methods. May have been able to reuse the glass if it made it in tact. Thanks for the video anyway. Sometimes you just want to stick with what you know.
Amen. I would definitely reuse the glass and build exact replicas
Great video Mike. I hope I can help with a tip on glazing compound. It's called Multi-glaze by Sarco. It's much better than Dap 33. Try it you won't be disappointed.
Yes, do what Dennis says. You will have a much happier life.
Considering he was using Dap 33 I thought he worked it very well.
I always primed my sashes first. Dap definitely doesn't stick well to the primer! I will try brushing the bare wood with linseed oil on my next glazing project.
I used a paintable silicone caulk on my last window replacement and it sure was easier than glazing compound. They say "sure, glazing compound lasts forever" but, that's not been my experience.
@@rivernet62 I've been using regular glazing compound..and every time..I feel like there must be a better option. What brand?
@@patrickd8135 I’m not really a brand guy. Whatever you have on the shelf.
hello...I made a Christmas Tree after watching your video. Thank you for being an inspiration to me.
Great craftmanship
I just restored 9 x 193 year old windows to put in my house restoration. I used allback puddy and it was terrible to work with definitely recommend sarco for anyone reading this.
This man said one video and done. Gotta respect it.
Great video man also pretty good gig that you landed
You have an awesome job Michael Jasinski.
Fantastic! I always wanted to make my own historically accurate sash windows for my house and not have to pay a fortune for the awful commercial vinyl windows. But I’ve never found any instructional to learn to do it, until now. Will you please do a sequel video on how to make the frames with balances, etc?
U have to get old building books. Brent Hulls’s channel mentions some on his 100 year window video
The windows in this video have not been done in the historical manner at all.
If you actually want to use a construction method that could provide 100 years plus service then buy a copy of W.B Mckay "Joinery". 😊
This guy doesn’t give a damn about the park. He all about the woodcraft and the access to the professional woodworking tools that come with the job. Lmao.
Hi , restorer from the UK, doing exactly this type of work, often on very, very old buildings, firstly excellent work there, but why the use of loose tenons? And a screw? Was a bit surprised at that! And was the timber used cedar? Many thanks for posting, would like to see more.
Yes, I was wondering that myself. Like you, I’m in the UK (Kent).
make a video
Great video. Thanks for the detail and the explanation.
I have a couple of questions: 1) is the "waste" putty reusable or does it dry out too much in the process and 2) What is the recommended primer? I'd also like to know why boiled linseed oil is better than a primer on the surface of the wood before glazing. Thanks!
You’ve got some skills, great work
Wonderful skills
Absolutely class!!
Thank you so well explained.
Excellent job!
Great video! Would be great to get more instruction on set-up of router, making loose tenons, etc.
Good comment. Can you post details of the router bits that you used please?
@@maxbeck3577 there are many out there. Check out Freud adjustable rail and stile router but set to find videos. (But this video is pretty darn good).
@@rich5034can you link a good one here?
@@westsidewil Check these out. ua-cam.com/video/nnYHeVCaGi8/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/DDFLfkayZVg/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/i2lYHvjHG_E/v-deo.html for starters. There are more available depending on the router bit set in use. I have the Freud 99-763 set. Have fun and good luck.
You make it look easy.
Great job, lots of skills! Coping the sash bars and stiles is really impressive. But is floating tenons and glued joints really historical? I’m no expert, just fixed about a dozen of old windows - tenons were integral and they were only wedged or cross-pinned (that’s why it was possible to fix them). Are these more recent windows or something?
I also was mystified by the use of floating tenons, i have done this type of work often, and we always cut the tenons the same way as the original piece
Neat to see the whole procedure. Were the original sashes made with floating tenons?
Great! You said you glue the bejeezus out of it. Do you put glue only mainly on the tenons or also on the abutting surfaces? (I am wondering whether to only glue the tenons and make it easier to take it apart in the future for refurbish, or glue everything because of stability) 8:10
Nice guide. But that seems to be the Government "lack of maintenance" better build new than to maintain.
Thanks man!! very good demonstration!!!
Amazing
This is epic.
This is amazing thank you
would be faster and better to cut actual tenons and wedge them (using a jig on the table saw ). wedges will hold till the glue dries and you can carry on working on it. also mechanically holds it together should the glue ever fail.
Good old fashion glazing technique.
great video
Nice work
"We're gonna do this the historic way" ...*takes lumber to the industrial thicknesser, bandsaw, tablesaw, and router table with super high quality modern high tech bits and blades* 😂 the outcome is sweet though!
and screws :P
@@ejgrae1989 At least it wasn't silicone putty!
I don't know why the tenon here is not integral with the rail, meaning machined from the rail. That was a bit disappointing.
Nice restoration glass.St Just ?
Very good...👏
I've never seen a floating tenon on a historic window.
The Swiss built schoolhouse that I am restoring has them- Built in 1904 in Pacific NW
great commentary
No window tacks? Not sure exactly what they are called, , used them 40 years ago to hold glass before glazing
Did they use through tenons in the original or is that only because you use the router profile?
Great but what's going on with the wall?
What kind of wood did you use
brilliant
How do you know if you have historic windows worth keeping?
Well done!
What species of lumber did you use? Thank You!
Looks like redwood to me. Soft and easily bruised thus the carpeted workbench.
@@g.m.fallon3135 WRC?
Yes, It's redwood and the growth rings say It's old growth Athough tighter rings of old growth is available. Also no other species available back then could last 100 years.
This is a bizarre reconstruction of an historic sash. Wouldn’t recommend following these methods.
So sashy!
How do you paint it with the glaze and glass attached? You isolate the glass?
He mentioned using boiled linseed oil as a pre-treatment. I hadn't heard about that use, but will look into it.
2:54 an someone tell me if this is an historical way? Thank you.
I keep my tenon as a part of my bottom rail, but have to scribe my profile into it and then cut it with a ban saw. Also I put tenons on my muttons
So many technical inaccuracies here that I don't know where to start.
Seriously, the parks department have a woodworking department, this has to be some sort of Ron Swanson - piss take.
This isn't historically accurate and is disappointing really. Historic sashes never used glue or floating tenons. Plugs were used sometimes but only on the rails, and they were packed with linseed putty, not glue. And even when they were used it was on saddle joints and not M&T joints.
DAP33 is also a terrible glazing compound, especially when you consider historically accurate (and longer lasting) linseed oil glazing putty is still available.
The original windows could have been repaired and lasted longer than the new.
*shrug*
Show us how it's done.
@@ethanepps5500 just buy one of Steve Jordan or John Leeke's books. Or any historical jointery book for that matter.
@@ethanepps5500 It is possible, the only thing rotted was the lower rail and a quarter of each style. If he were to slice off on a diagonal the rotted sections of both styles and use a splice to join a piece of old growth wood to the original, he could've saved 75% of the window and the original glass which he should've used regardless.
@@lifestealerz joinery
@@joakerhodes6063 stile
except they are not sash windows?
They're sashes. You mean they're casement rather than double-hung?
The original sashes could have been saved with epoxy resin and splicing where required! I have saved worse! Also the glazing bars do not line up on the new sashes...
this is not a restoration its just a set of mediocre windows.
really poorly fitting joints
use of wood screws
using replacement glass when the original is available
use of bog standard PVA (dont mind too much as benefits are significant)
use of loose tenons instead of traditional mortise and tenon
no linseed putty used
no expansion bevels on the joints
no full length tenons used for the muntins
those windows could have been easily restored and IF necessary new wood grafted in to replace completely rotted out wood.
normally dont rant on youtube as its pointless but this crap pisses me off as there is no conservation here at all you may as well have put in PVC windows
Don't hold back simon p. Tell us how you _really_ feel!
Great video, but are taxpayers paying for this?
No. Mexico is paying for it. Just like they are paying for the wall....
It's a State Park, so yes. What's your point?
Can you imagine the astronomical overhead, salary, benefits and pension costs of a government owned woodworking shop? Subcontract it out. Government should not be making windows.
@@richardmckrell4899 I can see the arguments for and against this guy's project, but he's already a state employee with salary, benefits, and pension. I bid out a custom wood window once and was quoted $700, for something much more simple. I'm not sure there's a cost inefficiency argument here. Your point is well taken though; they should have mentioned the cost of the project done in-house vs. a contractor.
@@rivernet62 The only argument is a cost efficiency argument as this is tax payer money. My business is restoring and making historic wood windows and there is no doubt this state shop is dramatically more expensive. If you add up all the direct and indirect costs of that in-house state shop, the cost of those windows would be astronomical.
I made it with Stodoys plans!
Boom…