I think you are referring to the spring between the actual egr valve and egr motor assembly? If so I believe it’s to keep them close so the cables don’t come apart and cause the valve to not operate normally.
Ever have a RAM Cummins have weeping at the EGR cooler to coolant riser slip connection where the o-ring is that seems impossible to seal? I have one that's making me crazy! I even put in a new OEM riser because it had some corrosion I thought could be the culprit. I have put o-rings from Mopar in that connection, aftermarket, and most recently direct from the Cummins factory. All eventually weep after a few driving cycles. Coolant is original Mopar OAT, and I stopped using a petroleum-based lube on the o-rings and use the specific Cummins silicone-based. When I disassemble, there’s always a flat spot in the o-ring, indicating too much pressure on that spot, but there's no adjustment to center the nipple in the slip connection. When engine is hot, it seals. When cold, it weeps and loses a fair amount of coolant. I feel like I am the only one with a non-deleted truck having this issue.
That would be a first for me , I've only seen the o-rings get flat from the heat. Only possible thing I can think of is possibly the egr cooler connection is dented or out of round causing it to damage the seal and leak.
@drewsshoplife Appreciate the reply. Frustratingly, I checked both the OD of the nipple and the diameter of the o-ring groove, and they're perfectly round. The best way I can describe it is that the nipple isn't landing in the center of the slip connection of the riser. I either need the cooler to come up about 1/8" or the riser to go down by that much, but as you know, there's no adjustment in the mountings for either. I thought about taking the hot wrench to the nipple and bending it up, but I fear I'd end up causing the nipple to deform and leak anyway. I've heard rumor that when assembled at the factory, they add sealing tablets to avoid issues like this, but cannot get any confirmation.
It seems to be more of an issue on the 2011 and up. But I’ve seen the early 6.7’s have issues. I’ve seen the cooler fail as early as 80k miles and usually around 150k-180k miles.
Mine (2015 2500) failed at around 95k miles in 2018-19 and recently failed again around 200k. Luckily the first time was warrantied. This one is on me 😂 😭
On the EGR Bypass Valve......does that long spring on the bottom hold the EGR Valve Butterfly in the Closed or Open Position ??
I think you are referring to the spring between the actual egr valve and egr motor assembly? If so I believe it’s to keep them close so the cables don’t come apart and cause the valve to not operate normally.
Ever have a RAM Cummins have weeping at the EGR cooler to coolant riser slip connection where the o-ring is that seems impossible to seal? I have one that's making me crazy! I even put in a new OEM riser because it had some corrosion I thought could be the culprit. I have put o-rings from Mopar in that connection, aftermarket, and most recently direct from the Cummins factory. All eventually weep after a few driving cycles. Coolant is original Mopar OAT, and I stopped using a petroleum-based lube on the o-rings and use the specific Cummins silicone-based. When I disassemble, there’s always a flat spot in the o-ring, indicating too much pressure on that spot, but there's no adjustment to center the nipple in the slip connection. When engine is hot, it seals. When cold, it weeps and loses a fair amount of coolant. I feel like I am the only one with a non-deleted truck having this issue.
That would be a first for me , I've only seen the o-rings get flat from the heat. Only possible thing I can think of is possibly the egr cooler connection is dented or out of round causing it to damage the seal and leak.
@drewsshoplife Appreciate the reply. Frustratingly, I checked both the OD of the nipple and the diameter of the o-ring groove, and they're perfectly round. The best way I can describe it is that the nipple isn't landing in the center of the slip connection of the riser. I either need the cooler to come up about 1/8" or the riser to go down by that much, but as you know, there's no adjustment in the mountings for either. I thought about taking the hot wrench to the nipple and bending it up, but I fear I'd end up causing the nipple to deform and leak anyway. I've heard rumor that when assembled at the factory, they add sealing tablets to avoid issues like this, but cannot get any confirmation.
Is this your first time to do this job, I ask that question because of how much trouble you had with the gasket.
Based on your experience, what's the typical mileage or model year for a 6.7 EGR Cooler replacement? Thanks for your informative videos.
It seems to be more of an issue on the 2011 and up. But I’ve seen the early 6.7’s have issues. I’ve seen the cooler fail as early as 80k miles and usually around 150k-180k miles.
@@drewsshoplife Thanks for taking the time to answer my question--appreciate your informative channe.!
Mine (2015 2500) failed at around 95k miles in 2018-19 and recently failed again around 200k. Luckily the first time was warrantied. This one is on me 😂 😭
How do you diagnose if it's a bad cooler or a head gasket?
@@StanleyJacoboski most people say it's the temperature
Where are you located
I have to recommend a egr cooler for a friend, he has 2014 Ram. What do you recommend?
For egr coolers I prefer bulletproof diesel , have installed hundreds with no issues or even a failure.
@@drewsshoplife
Thank you, I will this information along to my friend.