Also when you solder, hold the gun under the wire until the wire is hot enough for the rosin core to evenly* be spread without touching it to the gun. The way you did it can give you a cold solder. Also it’s always good to use FLUX
Keep up the good work dude! Go the S-Chassis!!! Very informative, perfect timing of this as i needed it for my S14 too at 0:50s for my aftermarket pump
You could put a switch in line with the ground wire directly to the fuel pump so with a ignition on and the switch off or the fuel pump it won’t run until you close the ground connection
One question, why would you still use that stock fuel pump harness? Or just cuz it’s a short/small portion on that stock gauge harness safe to run those extra amps?
I had the same question but this is how everyone does it. I measured 14 v after this before its like 9 I think. It may not even be the wire size it may be where the fuel pump is taking its power from. Also theyre really short now and I know length has a big impact on how much power wires can carry.
The problem is that it can't carry that many amps over that long of a length at that little of a gauge wire size. It CAN however carry a larger amount of amps over a very short length.
IF you look at the stock wiring diagram the 12v goes through many fusable links and connectors and even the ignition switch on S13's. Same with the EFI coil pack 12v feed. Putting relays on Fuel pump and EFI 12v is recommended as the ignition switch gets really hot and unable to pass voltage and amps needed, that along with 30 year old wiring now it just can't push enough voltage. Simple putting a relay on fuel pump and the power wire for your coil packs will net you power and MPGS alone.
How does this work when it’s comes to priming the pump? I guess the blk and blk/yel wire gets 12v, which connects pin 30 and pin 87 and then cuts it after a few seconds which would stop the prime. Then when you start it would supply constant 12 v. Not sure if I’m right or not
that black and yellow at 4:38 ,it is it coming from? the body harness? If so I'm not getting pwr on that cable , but my relay clicks . can I still get this done?
BuiltLikeThis well it comes from pin 5 from the fuel pump relay (stock fuel pump relay) and got a year light and I do get pwr when i turn the ign on but only for a couple secs then my relay clicks. do you think my cable is not passing enough volts? that what I'm thinking.
+Conekillah when you turn the key to right before it cranks it should power the fuel pump for a second to prime the fuel system. Is that what you mean? if the car runs your probly fine!
BuiltLikeThis thanks for the replies bro first of all. yes with the test light I can see the yellow/black light up for a sec but it won't turn prime my pump Idk why. , could it be not enough amps/volts to turn on the pump on? I need to get a multimeter to check if im geting in the 12v
I explain it around the 0:50 mark but basically I upgraded the fuel pump which draws more power. If you dont do this it might not get enough voltage and wont be able to work to its maximum potential. Which can cause problems such as leaning out and destroying the motor.. dont want that hah
“I’m talking to the camera” 🤣🤣🤟🤟🙏🏼🙏🏼 good video bro, hope you doing well
Also when you solder, hold the gun under the wire until the wire is hot enough for the rosin core to evenly* be spread without touching it to the gun. The way you did it can give you a cold solder. Also it’s always good to use FLUX
Keep up the good work dude! Go the S-Chassis!!!
Very informative, perfect timing of this as i needed it for my S14 too at 0:50s for my aftermarket pump
You could put a switch in line with the ground wire directly to the fuel pump so with a ignition on and the switch off or the fuel pump it won’t run until you close the ground connection
really helpful! I have been planning on adding a relay to my fuel pump as well
Hey man, thank you for the video. Helped bigtime
Complimenti ! bravo! bye bye Italy (Turin)
Great video, very helpful 👍
One question, why would you still use that stock fuel pump harness? Or just cuz it’s a short/small portion on that stock gauge harness safe to run those extra amps?
Yes the turbo is coming!!
Turbo is done hah! Just fixing minor things and finishing up now then ill be able to start editing footage.
great videos man
Thanks dude
Why reuse the thinner power and ground wires going into the tank if they are the problem to start with?
I had the same question but this is how everyone does it. I measured 14 v after this before its like 9 I think. It may not even be the wire size it may be where the fuel pump is taking its power from. Also theyre really short now and I know length has a big impact on how much power wires can carry.
The problem is that it can't carry that many amps over that long of a length at that little of a gauge wire size. It CAN however carry a larger amount of amps over a very short length.
IF you look at the stock wiring diagram the 12v goes through many fusable links and connectors and even the ignition switch on S13's. Same with the EFI coil pack 12v feed. Putting relays on Fuel pump and EFI 12v is recommended as the ignition switch gets really hot and unable to pass voltage and amps needed, that along with 30 year old wiring now it just can't push enough voltage. Simple putting a relay on fuel pump and the power wire for your coil packs will net you power and MPGS alone.
Do you need to put the relay in if you wire a switch in and what are the pros of having a relay
or you can put the 30 to a ignition that way you don't have to use a switch to turn it on and off
What is the part number for the correct relay?
How does this work when it’s comes to priming the pump? I guess the blk and blk/yel wire gets 12v, which connects pin 30 and pin 87 and then cuts it after a few seconds which would stop the prime. Then when you start it would supply constant 12 v. Not sure if I’m right or not
What size fuse ?
Did you feel any difference after the Kitt was installed
does it have to be a 30 amp switch ?or can it be a 40 ? for fuel pump
amps are your problem, not volts. great vid though :)
Thx bro!
Can I ask you where you did the relay again.
What size fuse did you use? For the inline fuse
I saw him using 30A fuse.. i'm confused.. why use 30A and not 15A?
you dont need to cut the wire
that black and yellow at 4:38 ,it is it coming from? the body harness? If so I'm not getting pwr on that cable , but my relay clicks . can I still get this done?
where*
+Conekillah im not exactly sure where it comes from. But its not getting power? So the car doesnt run? Cause thats the power for the fuel pump.
BuiltLikeThis well it comes from pin 5 from the fuel pump relay (stock fuel pump relay) and got a year light and I do get pwr when i turn the ign on but only for a couple secs then my relay clicks.
do you think my cable is not passing enough volts? that what I'm thinking.
+Conekillah when you turn the key to right before it cranks it should power the fuel pump for a second to prime the fuel system. Is that what you mean? if the car runs your probly fine!
BuiltLikeThis thanks for the replies bro first of all. yes with the test light I can see the yellow/black light up for a sec but it won't turn prime my pump Idk why. , could it be not enough amps/volts to turn on the pump on? I need to get a multimeter to check if im geting in the 12v
why exactly did you hardwire it? jw.
I explain it around the 0:50 mark but basically I upgraded the fuel pump which draws more power. If you dont do this it might not get enough voltage and wont be able to work to its maximum potential. Which can cause problems such as leaning out and destroying the motor.. dont want that hah
+BuiltLikeThis oh sorry lol, I had the volume down on my phone lol.
My 240 take for ever to start up. I have a new gas tank a new pump lol idk lol