Previous comment disappeared so here we go again... This is such a nice tutorial, best in class with no attempt to sell you crap. In an attempt to pay it forward I put together a spreadsheet to do the calculations for any bin design. A few improvements that are possible 1) Lower the position of the first rail so that that the lowest bin rides on the frame rather than the rail, this allows you to load ridiculous amount of weight in the bin without jeopardizing the bin or the rail 2) Run 2x4 or 2x3 brace at 30 degrees inside every few of the rail frames to stabilize front to back movement. 3) Run a 2.5x0.5" diagonal brace along the back to stabilize side-to-side movement with minimal impact to rack depth (not sure why Mr. Meyers ran 2x4s horizontally, even if you have to run multiple diagonal braces it is still much better than a horizontal one). 4) Increase the bin horizontal pitch slightly, seems that Home Depot has decreased the bin width a bit over the years so if you have a mixture of new and old bins and design very tightly the old bins may not fit. Google docs sheet posted in the response to this comment in case YT does not like it,
Hey thanks for taking time to comment! I appreciate the feedback and you have some good ideas. The diagonal braces would be a great idea but for simplicity I put a horizontal 2x4 at the top and bottom of the backside for extra strength / to prevent side to side movement. I'd love to see the Google doc but I can't find it
@@meyers.makes. Ugh, the algos scrubbed my most recent attempt. Let's try this again in a more roundabout way. Take my username; split it at the capitalization and separate with a dot. Send it to the email service operated by the company that owns this service. For example if my username is JohnDoe you would translate that to john.doe
This was my first time ever using a saw/drill and I watched another video and ended up in disaster you made this so easy and I managed to do it! Thank you so much!
thanks for this. i’m going to build one in my basement, but i am going to use 4 full size totes and the top is about 2/3 size. supposed to be 70 liters. I don’t have enough ceiling space for 5 high
I made a similar unit for my Hubs tool shop last year. I loke how your video is precise and to the point! Great job and an awesome usable idea!! Thank you!!
Build support 1x4 or 2x4’s across the side base and tops and you get no wobble. Cross beams work best if you know how to make them or want to look them up!
I'd probably do 2 things. Install some sort of lift at the bottom if you have a water heater near there. If the WH leaks, it can flood the garage and ruin the wood (experience). or use Pressure Treated wood on the bottom. Also, I'd probably just mount it to the concrete blocks. Be more secure and less chance it ever wobbles or falls over.
Apologies for the rookie comment, but if your bins are 28 1/2" long, and your rails are only 27" long, wouldn't the bins stick out of the rack an 1 1/2" ?
Technically his measurements are off by the blade thickness on the second and third cut of each board. The blade thickness should be added to numbers two and three.
It is because the tote has a lip under the cover. It is about one or so inches high so you don’t have to have the whole 15 1/2” height of the bin for the first one. Hope this helps.
Why are the edges of the video blurred and slightly distorted? I thought I was losing my vision for a second! It's very distracting - whatever in camera effect or lens, or post-production edit has causing it... please stop it.
@mdr_random it's my wide angle lense unfortunately on a tight budget and need to upgrade the camera. By liking and subscribing to my channel it will help me out thanks for the feedback
Previous comment disappeared so here we go again... This is such a nice tutorial, best in class with no attempt to sell you crap. In an attempt to pay it forward I put together a spreadsheet to do the calculations for any bin design. A few improvements that are possible 1) Lower the position of the first rail so that that the lowest bin rides on the frame rather than the rail, this allows you to load ridiculous amount of weight in the bin without jeopardizing the bin or the rail 2) Run 2x4 or 2x3 brace at 30 degrees inside every few of the rail frames to stabilize front to back movement. 3) Run a 2.5x0.5" diagonal brace along the back to stabilize side-to-side movement with minimal impact to rack depth (not sure why Mr. Meyers ran 2x4s horizontally, even if you have to run multiple diagonal braces it is still much better than a horizontal one). 4) Increase the bin horizontal pitch slightly, seems that Home Depot has decreased the bin width a bit over the years so if you have a mixture of new and old bins and design very tightly the old bins may not fit. Google docs sheet posted in the response to this comment in case YT does not like it,
Hey thanks for taking time to comment! I appreciate the feedback and you have some good ideas. The diagonal braces would be a great idea but for simplicity I put a horizontal 2x4 at the top and bottom of the backside for extra strength / to prevent side to side movement.
I'd love to see the Google doc but I can't find it
groovy geek on the google email service. if you contact me there I will send you the doc
@@meyers.makes. Ugh, the algos scrubbed my most recent attempt. Let's try this again in a more roundabout way. Take my username; split it at the capitalization and separate with a dot. Send it to the email service operated by the company that owns this service. For example if my username is JohnDoe you would translate that to john.doe
@@meyers.makes. see my about info and reach out
@@meyers.makes. with my profile about
This was my first time ever using a saw/drill and I watched another video and ended up in disaster you made this so easy and I managed to do it! Thank you so much!
Week-end-warriors like me appreciate the details you provide in your videos. Thanks to you, I'll be able to build this relatively easily!
Glad you found it helpful! Appreciate the feedback
This was the best 2x4 tote rack video I've seen out of the dozens I've watched. Great work!!
thanks for this. i’m going to build one in my basement, but i am going to use 4 full size totes and the top is about 2/3 size. supposed to be 70 liters. I don’t have enough ceiling space for 5 high
Simply excellent! Concise, thorough, clear, and complete! Thanks!
Glad you liked it! Appreciate the feedback
That speed square/circular saw trick is awesome. Coming from a complete know nothing background, thats the kinda tips im looking for. Thanks dude.
Glad you found it helpful I post all kinds of tips and tricks on my social medias
I made a similar unit for my Hubs tool shop last year. I loke how your video is precise and to the point! Great job and an awesome usable idea!! Thank you!!
Thank you! Appreciate it
I love this you are excellent! I am hooked I'm going to watch your channel forever!!!!!! 😀 Ty.
Build support 1x4 or 2x4’s across the side base and tops and you get no wobble. Cross beams work best if you know how to make them or want to look them up!
Thank you for being so specific….
Glad it was helpful
I'd probably do 2 things. Install some sort of lift at the bottom if you have a water heater near there. If the WH leaks, it can flood the garage and ruin the wood (experience). or use Pressure Treated wood on the bottom. Also, I'd probably just mount it to the concrete blocks. Be more secure and less chance it ever wobbles or falls over.
This guy is a great teacher. But giving serious Crispin Glover/George McFly vibes. Not necessarily a bad thing. He was a smart dude. LOL
@@shawnwaldrop3702 lol no idea who those are
Do you pre-drill the screw holes? If so, what bit size?
Do you have modification measurements, to make it 4 totes high?
Did you make 2 separate units and then screw them together for the 2 different size totes? It looks amazing btw :)
You got it!
Where is your home depot? I've never seen boards that straight at mine!!!
I picked through the entire pile. Try a lumber yard better quality
Have you made any with wheels on them?
@@mando91349 not yet but you definitely could
@@mando91349 not yet but I will be
You could have used the metal flange on the outfeed roller to your measurements and just cut them instead of measuring and marking each board..
Apologies for the rookie comment, but if your bins are 28 1/2" long, and your rails are only 27" long, wouldn't the bins stick out of the rack an 1 1/2" ?
The bins have a 1" lip on the front and back so they basically sit flush with the lip being like a handle
@@meyers.makes. ok makes sense. thanks for the reply. cheers.
strange question: do you cut at the line/outside the line at the front or back and consider the blade thickness?
Technically his measurements are off by the blade thickness on the second and third cut of each board. The blade thickness should be added to numbers two and three.
Pretty neat rack. Thank you.
Safety glasses though. Just sayin. 😂
If the bins are 15 1/2 inches tall, why did you do the first one from the bottom at 15 inches and then the rest at 16 inches
It is because the tote has a lip under the cover. It is about one or so inches high so you don’t have to have the whole 15 1/2” height of the bin for the first one. Hope this helps.
What are the dimensions of the completed rack? Thanks
Roughly 11' wide x 7' tall
Nice.. what are you doing yo create the white labels?
Those are the home depot labels but a label maker would work or tape
@@meyers.makes. 👍🏼
Why are the edges of the video blurred and slightly distorted? I thought I was losing my vision for a second! It's very distracting - whatever in camera effect or lens, or post-production edit has causing it... please stop it.
@mdr_random it's my wide angle lense unfortunately on a tight budget and need to upgrade the camera. By liking and subscribing to my channel it will help me out thanks for the feedback