We used to talk about this in automotive school. The idea being you can actually lose power by pulling off your exhaust, because of reduced scavenging. The perfect area to cut it might be right after the x pipe, w/ turndowns . Ofcourse, experimenting in reality is the most important thing, so kudos for posting this video.
My automotive school was online forums since the moparchat days a long long time ago, and I'm sure you know how the debate about exhaust goes on those lol. One of the reasons I like to try and get actual numbers and data if I can, just really hard to compare with other scenarios and cars given all the varying factors. I also don't want to cut up my stock exhaust so testing a post x-pipe dump won't happen, unless I get some custom pipes done.
Yep, even Steve from WestTech dyno doing the Engine Masters show with Friebruger: "After 28-36inches after the collector there's enough to dump it." They saw very little change with no X or H in peak, but with the H, it gained a bit below the 5252 split. But after a certain RPM its flow dynamics, air wont make that 90 in the H and the X was better higher up the Revs for HP and a Bit of Tq over no crossover. Pitch changed, but dB was 1 or 2 diff.
@@updragracer You know what, that is a great idea. Based upon the weight savings alone, Chris should have run .060 faster, but he actually only ran .028 faster, which means he did lose a very small amount of power. A good x-pipe after the cats could improve his engine's scavenging effects and not only regain the lost power but perhaps increase it a bit. Sure seems like it's worth a try... of course a good tune would probably be an even bigger help.
Love your channel because you always test the things ive questioned myself, forums are no help lol. Ive been wanting to take the exhaust off of my 392 but ive been hesitant.
I appreciate that and I fully understand about the forums, I've been part of one or another for 25 years now and people love to either argue or parrot things without actually knowing what they're talking about. It's a big reason why I do vids like this and how I've always gone about answering questions in forums, which is, "this is what I did and my actual experience with it", and then let everyone else argue about it lol. Thanks for watching!
Been waiting for these results! I haven't had my 1320 back out to the track since I installed the MBRP Race exhaust, but I'm hoping it shaves a little time off. It sounds good though! Thanks Chris
Hey Chris, hoping you can answer a few questions. First one is what RPM does your 1320 shift at when drag racing, and is it the same for each shift? Did the shift RPM's change from when your car was full weight & running the original 20" wheels/tires to now being much lighter and with 17" wheels? Have you ever tried manual shifting? For example, like holding in 1st and 2nd a couple hundred RPM longer and short shifting 4th and 5th a couple hundred RPM's? Reason I thought it might help is the big ratio jump from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and close ratios on 3-4 / 4-5. Thanks!
I'd need to look at some of my vids and see if I can tell the rpm shift points. I want to say it's around 63-6400 but I'm not sure, or if it's the same with each shift. I really need to get some sort of logging started so that I know the answers to these questions, and for myself obviously. I have not tried manually shifting it during a timed run yet, but it is something I've been meaning to try out. Maybe at MoParty I might try it out once. I should probably write that down and make a list of things I need to try at the track. I seem to always forget once I'm out there and end up wondering what kind of tests I need to do lol.
@Scavenger1320 Yeah, I was hoping you had that RPM data via your recordings. Also, how many runs did you end up getting on your MT Street R's, and how are the Hoosiers holding up in comparison? Thanks!
@@artillerybuff2000 actually looks like I guessed a bit high. I was just looking at a couple of my runs from MoParty last year and this years Legion and looks like my car is shifting around 6100 for each shift. The 1-2 might be a tad higher but not by much.
No, I didn't. Probably wouldn't hurt to in this case, but I almost never pull them since it's never made much difference for me, so I didn't even think about it
Next time you can use a hydraulic jack right underneath the x pipe. That’ll keep it from binding and the exhaust will come out a lot easier! But I 100% agree with @PatrickReagan
It's not that hard to put back on if you didn't like it. Unless you happen to tear your bicep tendon and can't lift it up at all lol. I'm not sure how the MBRP integrates the active exhaust but getting that deleted I think is worth it. It's not a huge difference but does sound a little throatier at low rpms
This thing would be running even better impressive time if it was procharged, sounds good too, and the procharger whistle would only add on to the fun lol
Ah, but then I'd be in a completely different playground where the numbers I'd get wouldn't actually be impressive when there's boosted cars running into the 7s, not to mention the gobs of money it would take which I don't have. No, I'm perfectly happy hanging out with the naturally aspirated kids lol.
Whats your opinion on removing one or both of those two steel stamped "tunnel braces" under the exhaust? The way ours are designed and attatched to the car with nuts rather than bolts themeselves makes me really think they are simply exhaust/diff catchers rather than anything to add rigidity.
I'm trying to think of what pieces you're referring to. I think I might need to get under my car again to take a look. I did make another vid where I pulled off a bunch of the shields right after getting this exhaust off. Not sure if that part is in there? or if you can give me a timestamp in the vid where you can see it. ua-cam.com/video/EtASjXkS_hQ/v-deo.htmlsi=E2EwwDQNM9eFQlki
Let me ask a dumb "Q" - just how hard do you have to press the brake to get line lock to work? My 22 scat won't engage line lock, never gets beyond the instruction to press the brake pedal (it's beyond the 500 mile break in at 710 miles). Thanks!
It might actually be louder. I feel like the 5.7s seem to have a bit more exhaust sound to them than the 6.4s. I don't know that I'd recommend doing this for daily drivers though. But, this is easily reversible, you could always try it out and if you don't like it, just re-install the exhaust. The only thing you'll be out of is some of your time. That's a better risk than spending money on a system or chopping off the mid-mufflers where it won't be as easy to revert back if you ended up not liking it.
Trap speed can change how far you prestage and wind direction my 300 weighed 3560 and made a 11.75 pass with suspension and weight reduction with less than 400 hp at the rear wheel. There's alot you can still take off the car..ac compressor with a shorter belt, heat shielding, remove the cats,
For all these record runs I always stage and launch the same way, which is shallow as possible and off idle. The wind direction is the part that really made me look at that trap since it was a direct tailwind on the slower speed. I'm still debating with myself on the a/c. It gets crazy hot here in Dallas in the summer and it would be miserable even going to a nearby car show. There's days it'll be 7 am and already almost 90 degrees here lol.
Only problem is I'd have to cut my stock exhaust. Trying to keep the ability to return my car to 100% factory stock whenever I want. So unless I get some sort of custom pipes that test might not happen.
That's an interesting idea. One could get an extra catback from salvage, saw it off after the x-pipe, add turndowns, etc... then you'd have a swappable race day exhaust ....
Just listening to this video side-by-side with mine and they sounds very similar, even though mine is running through an x with 3" straight pipes all the way out the back. Of course they probably sound much different in person, my phone mic didn't really do it justice: ua-cam.com/video/rGsiHbhHOVQ/v-deo.html
definitely tough to hear the true sound through a vid. Listening to your vid the tone sounds similar, but a bit more controlled, not sure that's the right word, on yours. I did just get a new mic setup that will hopefully start capturing much better audio. When you rev it up though I do feel there's a much bigger difference
You do need some amount of back pressure on ost engines to help the flow of exhaust from the heads. Beyond that my dad instilled in me that running open after shuuting down cold air will rush in and potentially warp the valves (I always quickly stuffed a rag in the open pipes). My son who's has a degree in auto tech says BS on that.....
Well, I still have the stock midpipes with cats on so I don't think there's much cold air that'll rush past those. I used to have a 93 and a 97 Ram that I threw headers on and then cut out the cat and just threw on a couple glasspacks and never had any mechanical issues with those.
Could be, except he also has a 1320 so same drag suspension as me, and he honestly probably has more experience on the drag strip than me too, and with faster cars. Plus he has a 15" conversion. I actually bought my rear 17" wheels you see in this vid from him.
We used to talk about this in automotive school. The idea being you can actually lose power by pulling off your exhaust, because of reduced scavenging. The perfect area to cut it might be right after the x pipe, w/ turndowns . Ofcourse, experimenting in reality is the most important thing, so kudos for posting this video.
My automotive school was online forums since the moparchat days a long long time ago, and I'm sure you know how the debate about exhaust goes on those lol. One of the reasons I like to try and get actual numbers and data if I can, just really hard to compare with other scenarios and cars given all the varying factors. I also don't want to cut up my stock exhaust so testing a post x-pipe dump won't happen, unless I get some custom pipes done.
@@Scavenger1320 you could simply add a x pipe after your exhaust is off ? Just to see . Maybe hit up a junkyard to get one and cut it
Yep, even Steve from WestTech dyno doing the Engine Masters show with Friebruger: "After 28-36inches after the collector there's enough to dump it." They saw very little change with no X or H in peak, but with the H, it gained a bit below the 5252 split. But after a certain RPM its flow dynamics, air wont make that 90 in the H and the X was better higher up the Revs for HP and a Bit of Tq over no crossover. Pitch changed, but dB was 1 or 2 diff.
@@updragracer You know what, that is a great idea. Based upon the weight savings alone, Chris should have run .060 faster, but he actually only ran .028 faster, which means he did lose a very small amount of power. A good x-pipe after the cats could improve his engine's scavenging effects and not only regain the lost power but perhaps increase it a bit. Sure seems like it's worth a try... of course a good tune would probably be an even bigger help.
Great content Chris, awesome that you show the results after you Mod. 392 Club Bro!!!
Gotta have those results, otherwise it becomes a s***show full of debates lol. Thanks for watching!
Love your channel because you always test the things ive questioned myself, forums are no help lol. Ive been wanting to take the exhaust off of my 392 but ive been hesitant.
I appreciate that and I fully understand about the forums, I've been part of one or another for 25 years now and people love to either argue or parrot things without actually knowing what they're talking about. It's a big reason why I do vids like this and how I've always gone about answering questions in forums, which is, "this is what I did and my actual experience with it", and then let everyone else argue about it lol. Thanks for watching!
Omgitsmrmack is the guy who did all the work on my build. Great dude
For sure, met him out at MIR the other year. Even got a pic of him squeezed into the tin can lol.
Been waiting for these results! I haven't had my 1320 back out to the track since I installed the MBRP Race exhaust, but I'm hoping it shaves a little time off. It sounds good though! Thanks Chris
You know me, it takes me a bit to get these vids out lol. You going to Muscle Cars at the Strip with it?
@Scavenger1320 Can't make it, we have family visiting from Idaho that weekend.
Hey Chris, hoping you can answer a few questions. First one is what RPM does your 1320 shift at when drag racing, and is it the same for each shift? Did the shift RPM's change from when your car was full weight & running the original 20" wheels/tires to now being much lighter and with 17" wheels? Have you ever tried manual shifting? For example, like holding in 1st and 2nd a couple hundred RPM longer and short shifting 4th and 5th a couple hundred RPM's? Reason I thought it might help is the big ratio jump from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, and close ratios on 3-4 / 4-5. Thanks!
I'd need to look at some of my vids and see if I can tell the rpm shift points. I want to say it's around 63-6400 but I'm not sure, or if it's the same with each shift. I really need to get some sort of logging started so that I know the answers to these questions, and for myself obviously. I have not tried manually shifting it during a timed run yet, but it is something I've been meaning to try out. Maybe at MoParty I might try it out once. I should probably write that down and make a list of things I need to try at the track. I seem to always forget once I'm out there and end up wondering what kind of tests I need to do lol.
@Scavenger1320 Yeah, I was hoping you had that RPM data via your recordings. Also, how many runs did you end up getting on your MT Street R's, and how are the Hoosiers holding up in comparison? Thanks!
@@artillerybuff2000 actually looks like I guessed a bit high. I was just looking at a couple of my runs from MoParty last year and this years Legion and looks like my car is shifting around 6100 for each shift. The 1-2 might be a tad higher but not by much.
Great video, liked the "What the hell is that?!" Did you pull any fuses / reset anything?
No, I didn't. Probably wouldn't hurt to in this case, but I almost never pull them since it's never made much difference for me, so I didn't even think about it
Next time you can use a hydraulic jack right underneath the x pipe. That’ll keep it from binding and the exhaust will come out a lot easier! But I 100% agree with @PatrickReagan
That's a good idea, I didn't think about that and I did have my jack with me there.
I'm tempted to try this. Mine has the MBRP catback street exhaust. I will look into the active exhaust delete thing.
It's not that hard to put back on if you didn't like it. Unless you happen to tear your bicep tendon and can't lift it up at all lol. I'm not sure how the MBRP integrates the active exhaust but getting that deleted I think is worth it. It's not a huge difference but does sound a little throatier at low rpms
This thing would be running even better impressive time if it was procharged, sounds good too, and the procharger whistle would only add on to the fun lol
Ah, but then I'd be in a completely different playground where the numbers I'd get wouldn't actually be impressive when there's boosted cars running into the 7s, not to mention the gobs of money it would take which I don't have. No, I'm perfectly happy hanging out with the naturally aspirated kids lol.
Whats your opinion on removing one or both of those two steel stamped "tunnel braces" under the exhaust? The way ours are designed and attatched to the car with nuts rather than bolts themeselves makes me really think they are simply exhaust/diff catchers rather than anything to add rigidity.
I'm trying to think of what pieces you're referring to. I think I might need to get under my car again to take a look. I did make another vid where I pulled off a bunch of the shields right after getting this exhaust off. Not sure if that part is in there? or if you can give me a timestamp in the vid where you can see it. ua-cam.com/video/EtASjXkS_hQ/v-deo.htmlsi=E2EwwDQNM9eFQlki
Let me ask a dumb "Q" - just how hard do you have to press the brake to get line lock to work? My 22 scat won't engage line lock, never gets beyond the instruction to press the brake pedal (it's beyond the 500 mile break in at 710 miles). Thanks!
I just always push the brake pedal in as hard as I can right after I tap the 'activate line lock' button.
@@Scavenger1320 Thank for the input, I'll give it another go next time I have it out🙂
Love it 👏
Thanks!
What tire and wheel setup do you have In rear?
They're 17x 10 Billet Specialties Win Lites with Hoosier 28.0x10.5-17 DBRs
Tapping in fam 😎😎💯💯
appreciate it!
What does your car weigh
around 3600
Good information thank you very much
Thanks for watching!
Sounds great 👍🏻… 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸😎
Thanks!
Would this sound good if I did this on 5.7 hemi or would it be god awful
It might actually be louder. I feel like the 5.7s seem to have a bit more exhaust sound to them than the 6.4s. I don't know that I'd recommend doing this for daily drivers though. But, this is easily reversible, you could always try it out and if you don't like it, just re-install the exhaust. The only thing you'll be out of is some of your time. That's a better risk than spending money on a system or chopping off the mid-mufflers where it won't be as easy to revert back if you ended up not liking it.
Trap speed can change how far you prestage and wind direction my 300 weighed 3560 and made a 11.75 pass with suspension and weight reduction with less than 400 hp at the rear wheel.
There's alot you can still take off the car..ac compressor with a shorter belt, heat shielding, remove the cats,
For all these record runs I always stage and launch the same way, which is shallow as possible and off idle. The wind direction is the part that really made me look at that trap since it was a direct tailwind on the slower speed. I'm still debating with myself on the a/c. It gets crazy hot here in Dallas in the summer and it would be miserable even going to a nearby car show. There's days it'll be 7 am and already almost 90 degrees here lol.
Tbm Brakes are next 🧐
Would love to get a set, just gotta be able to afford them. Unless @TBMBrakes might be open to a sponsorship lol
Try dumps after the x pipe . That x pipe makes power
Only problem is I'd have to cut my stock exhaust. Trying to keep the ability to return my car to 100% factory stock whenever I want. So unless I get some sort of custom pipes that test might not happen.
@@Scavenger1320 salvage yard wrecked cars are plentiful I bet 😂
That's an interesting idea. One could get an extra catback from salvage, saw it off after the x-pipe, add turndowns, etc... then you'd have a swappable race day exhaust ....
👍🏼
Just listening to this video side-by-side with mine and they sounds very similar, even though mine is running through an x with 3" straight pipes all the way out the back. Of course they probably sound much different in person, my phone mic didn't really do it justice: ua-cam.com/video/rGsiHbhHOVQ/v-deo.html
definitely tough to hear the true sound through a vid. Listening to your vid the tone sounds similar, but a bit more controlled, not sure that's the right word, on yours. I did just get a new mic setup that will hopefully start capturing much better audio. When you rev it up though I do feel there's a much bigger difference
Man you need ratchet wrenches like that
Tools are expensive lol
You do need some amount of back pressure on ost engines to help the flow of exhaust from the heads. Beyond that my dad instilled in me that running open after shuuting down cold air will rush in and potentially warp the valves (I always quickly stuffed a rag in the open pipes). My son who's has a degree in auto tech says BS on that.....
Well, I still have the stock midpipes with cats on so I don't think there's much cold air that'll rush past those. I used to have a 93 and a 97 Ram that I threw headers on and then cut out the cat and just threw on a couple glasspacks and never had any mechanical issues with those.
Back pressure is a myth… more air in, more air out, more power…. Adding restrictions only hurts
I can see how the other guy may have ran slower , he may have not had the traction you do and the added lower end power would have slowed him down .
Could be, except he also has a 1320 so same drag suspension as me, and he honestly probably has more experience on the drag strip than me too, and with faster cars. Plus he has a 15" conversion. I actually bought my rear 17" wheels you see in this vid from him.
@@Scavenger1320 on the other hand say he has great 60ft times and indeed lose top end . That would make sense also
Where are your ratchets