Відео

Sure, it’s a 1320, but it still has a 392 drivetrain that’s just how it came from the factory, and therefore stock. If you don’t think it is, then what do you consider a stock 392 drivetrain? The 392 drivetrain has seen different iterations through the years with different power ratings and different transmissions and other components, not to mention there are Ram trucks with a 392 drivetrain that’s completely different from the others.

@@Scavenger1320 1320s have the demon parts no? stock 392 drive imo is just the regular scat pack trim. I have a 1320 too and thought it was all demon under there lol

@@jont1226 it does share some parts with the demon like the axles and suspension. What if I said stock 1320 drivetrain with a stock 392 motor? I guess that’s more specific but sounds more confusing. But then if we look at stock scat trim like you say, how do you differentiate between the autos and manuals? Both are found in regular scat pack trim and both would be considered stock 392 drivetrains but they would perform vastly different on a track. There’s too many variations to just have one true 392 drivetrain. They’re all going to be unique to what options were ordered and in what trims. The common denominator is that they’re all powered by a 392 and however optioned out are still stock as to how they come from the factory, hence stock 392 drivetrain. I also haven’t even brought up 2014 and older where the 392 had 15 fewer horsepower, but since those came first then maybe they’re the true stock 392?

@Scavenger1320 i just saw stock 392 as the regular scat pack trim. 1320 is still a stock of its own but very different from a stock 392/scat pack because of the parts and drag mode.

I’m not. Payload capacity for my truck is 1680 pounds and I’m just under that

Figuring that number out still for a tire comparison vid I plan on doing. I finally started putting together a spreadsheet with all my runs but it’s taking some time since I’m wanting to get as much data as I can. That means I have to go back through my vids too since there’s data not on the time slips that I need to

@Scavenger1320 I'm asking because I'm getting ready to replace my MT Street R's

@@artillerybuff2000 I don’t have that many on the DBRs yet. I know I installed them after my MSHS Maryland race so the only races I’ve used them on is Streetcar Takeover November 22, then Legion 23, Big Showdown 23, MoParty 23, and Legion 24. I think those are all the races I’ve done since then. I will say when it comes time for new tires I plan on sticking with these DBRs.

@Scavenger1320 I'm running the 17x10 Forgestar D5 drag wheels with 6.6" backspacing, they tuck in fantastic, minimal space on the inside. They have aggressive knurling on both beads and weight just under 20 lbs. each. I looked at the D5 beadlocks, but they were twice the price and weighed 6 lbs more each.

@Scavenger1320 oh I meant to ask before, how much pressure did you run in the MTs, and how much do you run in the DBRs?

I'd need to look at some of my vids and see if I can tell the rpm shift points. I want to say it's around 63-6400 but I'm not sure, or if it's the same with each shift. I really need to get some sort of logging started so that I know the answers to these questions, and for myself obviously. I have not tried manually shifting it during a timed run yet, but it is something I've been meaning to try out. Maybe at MoParty I might try it out once. I should probably write that down and make a list of things I need to try at the track. I seem to always forget once I'm out there and end up wondering what kind of tests I need to do lol.

@Scavenger1320 Yeah, I was hoping you had that RPM data via your recordings. Also, how many runs did you end up getting on your MT Street R's, and how are the Hoosiers holding up in comparison? Thanks!

@@artillerybuff2000 actually looks like I guessed a bit high. I was just looking at a couple of my runs from MoParty last year and this years Legion and looks like my car is shifting around 6100 for each shift. The 1-2 might be a tad higher but not by much.

They do want to make sure its strapped down good, but the firewall part is more about separating the battery from the driver in case the battery explodes or spews out acid or fumes. It was more for the old traditional batteries but NHRA changed to wording in the rules so that the rule covers all batteries of any type. It's actually never been an issue for me at MoParty or any track. But also just to be safe I always went through tech with the trunk floor cover in since that covers up the battery and kind of separates it. I know a lot of people that are worried about going through tech without a rear seat or having an airbag light on because of a removed seat will just leave it all in when they go through tech and pull them out after. The great thing though about MoParty is that most of us 1320 and Challenger owners are really cool, so I always knew if I showed up without a rear seat separating the trunk and tech gave me a problem about it, I wouldn't of had any issues borrowing one from someone elses to get through tech. Same for anyone that showed up without a passenger seat and were given problems about the airbag light, I'd have no problem loaning out the air bag dummy plug from my car to help them get through tech.

​@Scavenger1320 I've never heard of a battery exploding at random, at the track. But hey if that's what they want, i guess I'll have to install a firewall since my car didn't come with a back seat.

​@Scavenger1320 so I just combed through the 2024 NHRA regulation. The only reference to requiring a firewall for the battery in the trunk, is listed under Section 21, General Guidelines index. Any other specific rule is listed for EV's or factory Drag Pak's. So it could be that they forgot to specify what class the general guidelines are referring to. So I sent an email to NHRA HR , to get more information.

@@1320_ikimasho When I say exploding, I don't really mean a fire-type explosion, but as an example, I was driving my 2002 Ram on a road trip a long time ago and had an Optima battery in it. All of a sudden my voltage gauge started spazzing out. When I pulled over and popped the hood a piece of the top of the battery had blown off and there was battery acid all over my engine bay. So in that case, if the battery were in the "driver" compartment, that acid could have ended up on the driver. That's really the other part that does pop up in the rule book a few times, which is that the battery can't be in the "driver" compartment unless in a sealed box, and since my car just has a big opening into the trunk, that makes it technically part of the driver compartment. If your car has the rear seat delete kit, then your trunk is separated and therefore not a part of the driver compartment so you should have nothing to worry about, plus the fact that the trunk located battery is how they come from the factory in Challengers. And again, I've never had tech say anything to me about it before, but you never know when you get one who's having a bad day or interprets the rules differently. Let me know if and what you hear back from the NHRA though, their interpretation is really the only one that matters.

It's a game changer for sure. I've had this one over 2 years now and still use it. Makes road trips so much easier, and has helped me feel better rested when I just need to pull over for a quick hour or two power nap.

appreciate that and thanks for the tip!

thanks for watching!

Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate it! And yeah, I'm not a fan of chinese made tools either, I've snapped or shattered more than a few in my time.

Thanks for watching!

Tough to say a mileage. Mine didn’t happen until I hit a 100K, but I think there’s other factors too. For over a year prior my truck did a lot of towing, and that meant a lot more time cruising at higher rpm’s under load where I’m sure the manifold was seeing intense heat. I know people that don’t tow still have it happen, but I’d bet mine would have gone longer if I never bought my RV. Just changing the bolts won’t always prevent it either since it’s a case of the manifolds warping. Some people just swap to shorty headers and never have to worry about it. BD Diesel also makes a slightly redesigned manifold that is almost identical to oem except it moves the heatshield bolts and is meant to prevent this issue too. Honestly if it were me, unless I was going to headers, I wouldn’t go through the trouble or worry. While it’s common it’s not guaranteed that it’ll happen.

Thanks for watching!

That is just a matter of money. Right now I’m broke and can’t afford them, but if that ever changes I’d love to get a carbon fiber trunk lid, doors, and other parts

I didn't. Only thing I could find was the torque specs. For stuff like this I've always started in the center and worked my way out, which also seems to be the common consensus for exhaust manifolds in general.

Nope, the entire powertrain is still factory stock. But also I’m almost certain these trucks, at least 2016s and newer, already have a transmission cooler that’s integrated with the condenser that comes standard

yeah, that's the total weight of the entire setup including driver/passengers too. The first RV towing vid I did that I compared to here is where I pulled up onto a CAT scale during my drive to get the total weight.

Glad I could help! Thanks for watching!

That might be something that needs to be checked out, especially if the noise, when it does happen, is consistent even after the engine is warmed up. Exhaust manifold tick will usually go away or at least get quieter as the engine warms up, plus the frequency of the tick would just be based on engine rpms and the gear it's in shouldn't affect it at all. Sounds more like something in the transmission or somewhere in the driveline.

Yup, a Ram, a Challenger and this Jeep. The filter cap is more about the hex part that the wrench goes over to not have to worry about it getting stripped. I had this same engine in my old 2012 Avenger and after a while, that plastic part the wrench goes on started getting worn down and stripped a little bit, and that was with me always being careful with it.

cool, but there's a lot of variables, not to mention you're comparing a 3/4 ton heavy duty truck to a 1/2 ton light truck. I'm gonna guess your truck was built and optioned out better for towing use being that's what heavy duty trucks are meant for, whereas mine didn't even get all the towing options. What engine do you have? what trans? what gears? Is the big truck you're towing on an open trailer? That alone makes a HUGE difference. When I tow this same car on an open trailer I can get around 15 mpg.

It was only one tank because I needed to fill up my gas can with 93 for my car for the races. I didn't feel like stopping the pump and running my card a second time just to switch octanes. Outside of that one this truck lives on 89

It ain't squatted that bad, and putting more weight towards the back of a trailer is just asking for trouble with sway. Plus this was a one time rental to try out a trailer like this.

Is this common issue with this hemis what can cause this to happen? I just got the car with 147k miles and not 2 days later it happened it sucks 😕

@@wowdude8244 That sucks that it started happening for you. It is definitely a common issue, I almost didn't realize how common until I saw how high the views started getting on this vid, which is at over 80K now, and I'm just a small channel with only 4K subs lol. The concensus is just a poor design where the manifold is basically a log shape that doesn't extend out at all from the engine exhaust ports, so the back of the manifold is getting heated up with exhaust from all 4 ports flowing past it. Then on top of that, the bolts serve 2 purposes where they connect the manifold to the block AND also hold the heat shield on. So it's really just a matter of time before the manifold get heated up so much that it starts warping to the point it overstresses the bolts and snaps them. I will say though that after talking to a lot of people about this, 147K is pretty good as far as how long before it happens. Seems for a lot of people, like me, it happens somewhere around the 100K mark, although it can happen a lot earlier too.

@Scavenger1320 i bought an after market at autozone with lifetime warranty so if i get 100k miles out of it with a free replacement i guess it won't be so bad , seems like its very common with many model years yes and seems like RAM didn't do anything about it

Same here. Never had any kind of auto shop in school or professional training, I've always just dove in and figured it out.

Not a fan of RV dealers either lol. I've been really happy with my 25 footer and I have no desire to try anything longer. I feel like what i have is right in that sweet spot for a half ton truck. I am jealous of your Alaska trip. I'm actually from Michigan and been to Florida more times than I can count, but my dream road trip has always been going from Key West all the way up to Alaska.

I do not have a brake controller and no, the trailer brakes won't work without one, unless your trailer has the 'surge' style brakes. I know the U-Haul trailers I use to tow my car has the surge style brakes so no issues there. I don't think those are all that common on other trailers though. That said, i've towed my 25' RV travel trailer through the Black Hills of South Dakota and the mountains going to Moab and have never had any braking issues. I'm not saying they're not needed though and my next truck will definitely have them. I did at one time think about installing a brake controller in this truck, the actual parts aren't really that expensive, but you have to take it in to the dealer to have them update the computer for the brake controller to work, and I do my best to avoid going in to the dealer at all costs lol. Plus I didn't think I was going to keep my truck for as long as I have now so I didn't feel it was worth the trouble when I figured I was going to be trading it in anyway soon.

@@Scavenger1320 Thanks for the reply. I'll probably have a brake controller installed. I'm moving and will rent a trailer and eventually purchase a small travel trailer. Thanks again.