I did actually look at that when I was messing with the other parts around the dash and I think I decided against it either because I didn't want to mess with figuring out where to put the ignition or maybe it was because it looked like it wasn't as simple as I thought to remove it. I honestly can't remember, which means I'll probably take another look at it eventually lol.
@@Scavenger1320 I have the Haynes Dodge/Chrysler 2005-2018 repair manual. I saw that in there and thought I wonder how many ounces that weighs? It all adds up though.
Speaking of weight reduction, I finally weighed the 1320's OEM lug nuts. They weigh 2 ounces each, for a grand total of 40 ounces. The ACER open ended short 14x1.5 cone seat titanium lug nuts weigh .67 ounces each, for a total of 13.4 ounces, which shaves off 26.6 ounces of rotating weight. I thought it would be more than that, not sure that little amount makes any difference at all. I had to buy nuts anyway because the OEM nuts diameter is too large to fit the Forgestar wheels, and I got the ACER's on sale with free shipping for $139.00 two years ago, so I figured it couldn't hurt. They are quite nice.
i picked up a set of titanium open lugs in 2024 for about the same price too. They worked on the skinnies, but the rear drag wheels needed shank style lugs.
Yeah, it's really just a matter of being able to put my car back to factory stock. Up to this point I've only done things I can easily undo. If I could find factory replacement sound deadening just to have on hand for that day I put it all back then maybe I'll do it.
Helpful info. Never thought about the underside of the car but it makes sense. Also, I'm looking at a 1320 that has a sunroof. Do you know anyone that's done a sunroof delete? I'd like to take if off the car but wondering if it's going to set off any codes.
Oh man, sounds major, like welding a panel in, repainting the roof, and installing a new headliner. Did you end up getting the car? I had two 1320's and traded the '21 in with only 1,600 miles. The only option is the front passenger seat. The Arizona dealer still had it as of Monday; it's F8 Green and looks awesome.
what about the plastic shield for the gas tank? i def noticed more heat with that shield removed near the tank, may put some thinner gold heat shield material back up
You're a beast Chris! Like I've said before, this reminds me of what I did way back in 1977 with my '71 Plymouth Duster. It was a 6 cylinder car I bought in '76 right before I graduated HS. I stripped everything, including the entire drive train, then installed a 440, 727, and 8-3/4" diff with 5.38 gears and huge Goodyear slicks. I was barely scrapping by back then, working full time, attending trade school at night, and living in a cheap rental. Unfortunately, my mods were not reversible like yours, and I ruined the car. I didn't have any place to store stuff anyway back then. I think of that car often and wish I would have kept it. But those early days were pretty lean...
@@artillerybuff2000 and that's why they say drugs would have been cheaper to get into lol. I've been debating lately when that time will come to put it all back together, but I actually do like it the way it is, not to mention its an attention getter.
I predict next it'll be the ignition switch bezel.
I did actually look at that when I was messing with the other parts around the dash and I think I decided against it either because I didn't want to mess with figuring out where to put the ignition or maybe it was because it looked like it wasn't as simple as I thought to remove it. I honestly can't remember, which means I'll probably take another look at it eventually lol.
@@Scavenger1320 I have the Haynes Dodge/Chrysler 2005-2018 repair manual. I saw that in there and thought I wonder how many ounces that weighs? It all adds up though.
Speaking of weight reduction, I finally weighed the 1320's OEM lug nuts. They weigh 2 ounces each, for a grand total of 40 ounces. The ACER open ended short 14x1.5 cone seat titanium lug nuts weigh .67 ounces each, for a total of 13.4 ounces, which shaves off 26.6 ounces of rotating weight. I thought it would be more than that, not sure that little amount makes any difference at all. I had to buy nuts anyway because the OEM nuts diameter is too large to fit the Forgestar wheels, and I got the ACER's on sale with free shipping for $139.00 two years ago, so I figured it couldn't hurt. They are quite nice.
Thanks for that info! Those are still on my list.
i picked up a set of titanium open lugs in 2024 for about the same price too. They worked on the skinnies, but the rear drag wheels needed shank style lugs.
I keep noticing you havnt dry iced the sound deadening in the trunk. Not much but everything adds up! Easy work lets get the video
Yeah, it's really just a matter of being able to put my car back to factory stock. Up to this point I've only done things I can easily undo. If I could find factory replacement sound deadening just to have on hand for that day I put it all back then maybe I'll do it.
Helpful info. Never thought about the underside of the car but it makes sense. Also, I'm looking at a 1320 that has a sunroof. Do you know anyone that's done a sunroof delete? I'd like to take if off the car but wondering if it's going to set off any codes.
Oh man, sounds major, like welding a panel in, repainting the roof, and installing a new headliner. Did you end up getting the car? I had two 1320's and traded the '21 in with only 1,600 miles. The only option is the front passenger seat. The Arizona dealer still had it as of Monday; it's F8 Green and looks awesome.
Me and my car could lose that weight 😂😂 great info 👌
It all adds up! Thanks for watching
Again, freaking cool..😎
Thanks!
what about the plastic shield for the gas tank? i def noticed more heat with that shield removed near the tank, may put some thinner gold heat shield material back up
I decided not to mess with that shield
My straight pipe exhaust began rattling a while back, i assume these might be causing the problem.
Do you still have the active exhaust valves still? Those are usually the main cause of exhaust squeeks and rattles.
I probably could stand to lose 8 more pounds...lol
well, it wouldn't hurt lol
You're a beast Chris! Like I've said before, this reminds me of what I did way back in 1977 with my '71 Plymouth Duster. It was a 6 cylinder car I bought in '76 right before I graduated HS. I stripped everything, including the entire drive train, then installed a 440, 727, and 8-3/4" diff with 5.38 gears and huge Goodyear slicks. I was barely scrapping by back then, working full time, attending trade school at night, and living in a cheap rental. Unfortunately, my mods were not reversible like yours, and I ruined the car. I didn't have any place to store stuff anyway back then. I think of that car often and wish I would have kept it. But those early days were pretty lean...
@@artillerybuff2000 and that's why they say drugs would have been cheaper to get into lol. I've been debating lately when that time will come to put it all back together, but I actually do like it the way it is, not to mention its an attention getter.