Do not use stranded wire to hang your parts. Instead use a wire coat hanger and pliers to create a hook. With this, you can control the orientation of the part while painting.
Too bad you have to use 30 cans of spraypaint to coat it evenly because half of it flies away into oblivion :D Seriously, though, this is what I needed! Primer filler, great idea!
lol this man sprays most of the paint off of the model. While you are probably using proper technique for maximal paint evenness, I don't think I will ever do this myself.
I was looking for something to do when we inevitably end up getting quarantined here in North Carolina. If I'll need to find rubbing alcohol, paper towels, and a respiratory mask, though, I guess I'll have to find something else to do.
I was in the same pickle- And I know I am a little late, but cleaners with alcohol in them will do. Simple green has been working for me. A solution around paper towels is just waiting for it to dry- And a solution for resp. mask would to be to do it outside (if you can). It certainly sucks right now but if you're patient enough you'll still be able to do it!
Congratulations. After $500,- worth of manhours... you have created that perfect part that can be bought at every store for $30.- (I understand it's about the pleasure of making and prototyping new ideas. But this is pretty much how I feel after I've created my perfect 3d print. )
Unless the reaction releases so much heat that the immediate area gets to the glass transition temperature of the plastic (for example, around 85C for ABS), I wouldn't expect it to warp much! Also, the heat would probably diffuse throughout the model so hopefully, it wouldn't cause too dramatic of a temperature change directly where the Bondo was applied.
We have never tried those specific paints before, but I don't see why not. I recommend doing a filler primer (we use an automotive one) before applying the paint for optimal adhesion
Hello Enrique, we don't normally polish our prints after painting. Sanding will typically create a smooth enough surface finish and we then apply a clearcoat for a glossy look
I print small 1:3 scale objects that have letters embossed in them, sometimes. I've tried to mask the area around it with a rectangle and then put paint on it then wipe it off and hope enough paint remains in the tiny letters but I can't get rid of the smudge around it. Does anybody please have a good method for this?
I am having the same issue. I'm doing lots of tests. I'm pretty close. What hasn't worked too well: Epoxy paint. Rub and buff. Oil based paints. Skipping sanding and filling. Painting below paint curing temperature. Drying at the high end of the paint's curing temperature. ------ I am working on a panel insert for a 19" rack mount to mount some control toggle switches. I'm using PLA with the letters embossed 0.5 mm deep, and about 5.0 mm tall. I sand down the final print, then a plastic wood filler ( most success with DAP Plastic Wood) very carefully in the pinholes which form inside letters like D, A, R, O, B Q, P. Prime, sand, prime, sand. There is usually some clean up with a needle running through the letter shapes. Then a flat black spray enamel (Testors), several coats. Then a couple of coats of Testors Gloss spray lacquer. This makes it slick enough for excess paint removal. The I don't mask because it peels off the paint. I then use a matte acrylic liquid paint (water based) very carefully daubed into the letter insets. I use a matte white Apple Barrel brand (PLAID). Then use a rubbery caulk corner tool to squeegee the white paint away. Yes, it leaves streaks. Then a moist paper towel wrapped around the squeegee to wipe away the excess. Using a clean wet part of the paper towel, I continue to clean up the area. Unfortunately, during all these test experiments, I have messed up some step ruining the project. But the filling of the letters with water based acrylic and clean up with water has worked, but it was on a piece I ruined. I masked with scotch tape and it pulled up the clear finish. Here is my email if you want to share lessons learned and I can send you photos. pdwhalen@gmail.com. Good luck friend!
Is that paint safe for prolonged contact with skin? For example, if a 3d printed chain pendant would be painted this way, would it be toxic to the skin?
Hello Shaheer, it would depend on the type of paint used. It would need to be a paint that is approved for skin contact. Typically latex and acrylic based paints would not meet that requirement.
Assuming it has been annealed, PLA won't melt at standard hairdryer temperature and will actually get stronger on each and every repetitive heating to the point it will stay solid even at 150 C.
Question: I was about to purchase the "primer filler" then i noticed another product from the same company called "primer filler and sandable" they're both grey in color. in this video, the guy makes use of "primer filler" and is capable of sanding it so what's the difference ?? is getting the filler and sandable better ??
The short answer is that it shouldn't really matter, both would be sandable. We don't use a sanding specific primer on our 3D prints so I would go with the most cost-effective option.
Why is anyone asking questions here? This is just a reupload of someone else's video, go watch it on the channel of the actual creators and ask THEM questions and give THEM feedback- ua-cam.com/video/Jz_s7sJOlMU/v-deo.html
I think Bondo is a bit of overkill. I glue with Locktight super glue, then fill with DAP plastic Wood. Prime, sand, prime, sand etc. I plan to try Probond Wood Filler which looks good.
nobody who has even the slightest bit of experience sprays something with it swinging about wildly like in this video, absolutely no control what so ever , do not follow this video!
spray painting with a dust mask is completely pointless, you might as well paint without a mask at that point. use a proper respirator rated for fumes and gasses
you say to polish...after 24 hours... i don't think thats a good idea...maybe a week or more imo.. plus you never explain anything about how to polish... that looks like approx 3 hours of labor to me ... thanks
love how they just cut him off at the end
He hasn't yet learned how to take his speech past the end card.
I had the same thought the first video. Then I watched all three that did the same thing, lol.
lol I was pretty sure there was going to be a comment on that before scrolling down
Thank's for watching and remember hail sa (Cut him off CUT HIM OFF)
It's because the video is stolen and they're hiding the plug for Makerbot Learning at the end. The original is easy to find.
Do not use stranded wire to hang your parts. Instead use a wire coat hanger and pliers to create a hook. With this, you can control the orientation of the part while painting.
Too bad you have to use 30 cans of spraypaint to coat it evenly because half of it flies away into oblivion :D Seriously, though, this is what I needed! Primer filler, great idea!
Do you actually mean that? I know you're exaggerating but do you have to use many cans of paint? Yes I know this comment is 5y old lol
@@CraitMerc Depends how big the part is, if its as big as shown in the video, you should easily get it done with one can of primer filler + paint
The ending was so beautiful it made me cry
Thanks for a well done video. I just found the perfect use for my unused N95 masks, sanding and painting...
the end is me when prof wants me to wrap up
What if I need to put the stuff in the hairdryer?
Very helpful, made my painting skills muuuuch better
Great to hear, glad we could help!
What kind of polish does it specifically need to protect the paint?
I am guessing they aren't putting anything inside the hairdryer model, considering it has been bonded and sealed.
Finally a short and to the point video. Thank you!
Does automobile Primer-filler work? I can't find a regular thing of Primer-filler anywhere.
lol this man sprays most of the paint off of the model.
While you are probably using proper technique for maximal paint evenness, I don't think I will ever do this myself.
Was that printed with PLA filament?
very good tutorial!
Thank you!
Finally a hair dryer I CAN take in the shower with me...
Thank you and have a great day.
I was looking for something to do when we inevitably end up getting quarantined here in North Carolina. If I'll need to find rubbing alcohol, paper towels, and a respiratory mask, though, I guess I'll have to find something else to do.
I was in the same pickle- And I know I am a little late, but cleaners with alcohol in them will do. Simple green has been working for me.
A solution around paper towels is just waiting for it to dry-
And a solution for resp. mask would to be to do it outside (if you can).
It certainly sucks right now but if you're patient enough you'll still be able to do it!
The spinning model had me lauching way to hard
I want my print to stay just like the primed one, is it necesary to sand it before prime it?
you might not have to, depending on the paint, but sanding it helps the paint stick better.
Great video! Too bad audio stops early
Congratulations. After $500,- worth of manhours... you have created that perfect part that can be bought at every store for $30.-
(I understand it's about the pleasure of making and prototyping new ideas. But this is pretty much how I feel after I've created my perfect 3d print. )
Curious. Bondo goes through an exothermic reaction after applying the hardener. Wont that cause warping of the 3d printed part?
Unless the reaction releases so much heat that the immediate area gets to the glass transition temperature of the plastic (for example, around 85C for ABS), I wouldn't expect it to warp much! Also, the heat would probably diffuse throughout the model so hopefully, it wouldn't cause too dramatic of a temperature change directly where the Bondo was applied.
Thank you!!
concise and helpful, tks!
Thanks for this great resource
What if you are painting a figure statue like eyes, hair, skin color?
Can I use revell enamel paints to paint 3d printed PLA?
We have never tried those specific paints before, but I don't see why not. I recommend doing a filler primer (we use an automotive one) before applying the paint for optimal adhesion
can anyone help me get a textured finish?
A polisher you recommend for after painting?
Hello Enrique, we don't normally polish our prints after painting. Sanding will typically create a smooth enough surface finish and we then apply a clearcoat for a glossy look
@@proto3000_ I need to know what is the electric sander brand name? i interested to buy elec. sander like that...thanks.
@@algojo76 they are using a oscillating tool with a sanding bit. Its Dremel brand. Hope that helps
I print small 1:3 scale objects that have letters embossed in them, sometimes. I've tried to mask the area around it with a rectangle and then put paint on it then wipe it off and hope enough paint remains in the tiny letters but I can't get rid of the smudge around it.
Does anybody please have a good method for this?
I am having the same issue. I'm doing lots of tests. I'm pretty close. What hasn't worked too well: Epoxy paint. Rub and buff. Oil based paints. Skipping sanding and filling. Painting below paint curing temperature. Drying at the high end of the paint's curing temperature. ------ I am working on a panel insert for a 19" rack mount to mount some control toggle switches. I'm using PLA with the letters embossed 0.5 mm deep, and about 5.0 mm tall. I sand down the final print, then a plastic wood filler ( most success with DAP Plastic Wood) very carefully in the pinholes which form inside letters like D, A, R, O, B Q, P. Prime, sand, prime, sand. There is usually some clean up with a needle running through the letter shapes. Then a flat black spray enamel (Testors), several coats. Then a couple of coats of Testors Gloss spray lacquer. This makes it slick enough for excess paint removal. The I don't mask because it peels off the paint. I then use a matte acrylic liquid paint (water based) very carefully daubed into the letter insets. I use a matte white Apple Barrel brand (PLAID). Then use a rubbery caulk corner tool to squeegee the white paint away. Yes, it leaves streaks. Then a moist paper towel wrapped around the squeegee to wipe away the excess. Using a clean wet part of the paper towel, I continue to clean up the area. Unfortunately, during all these test experiments, I have messed up some step ruining the project. But the filling of the letters with water based acrylic and clean up with water has worked, but it was on a piece I ruined. I masked with scotch tape and it pulled up the clear finish. Here is my email if you want to share lessons learned and I can send you photos. pdwhalen@gmail.com. Good luck friend!
Is that paint safe for prolonged contact with skin? For example, if a 3d printed chain pendant would be painted this way, would it be toxic to the skin?
Hello Shaheer, it would depend on the type of paint used. It would need to be a paint that is approved for skin contact. Typically latex and acrylic based paints would not meet that requirement.
@@proto3000_ thank you
What is the difference between normal Primer and Primer Filler?
One is used to give the paint a good surface for proper adhesion, and the other is used for "filling" pits, sand scratches, etc.
I have a question, what if I spray painted a screw will it mess with the screwing part of the screw?.
Only if the layers are too thick and depending on what you're screwing into
Ehm is that a hairdryer made out of pla?
I thought the point was of pla that it melts very easy
I might be wrong
@@spookydahmurky7130 I think thats only the prototype of the product. How it'll look at the finished state.
Well you are assuming way too much. It could be any type of material that the fdm printers accept.
Assuming it has been annealed, PLA won't melt at standard hairdryer temperature and will actually get stronger on each and every repetitive heating to the point it will stay solid even at 150 C.
Good Stuff. Thank you
How long do I wait until I can paint over the primer I am about to start priming my 3D printed Boba Fett which is about 30cm tall
30 minutes
Nice video ! Wats the sanding machine name??
Looks like a Dremel brand sander
It's a multitool, made by Dremel in this video. Also available from Fein, Bosh and many other brands.
But you probably know that by now
Anyone else see the barcode on the model towards the beginning of the video.... I'm guessing it's PVC pipe?
I need a company that will do this for my products 🤔
Don’t need to fan the paint can so far.
Thanks bro
But could yuu link the necesaary equipment on amazon?
dude can you not find it yourself? how do you feed yourself
@@DnBastard your mom feeds us
@@imperialrecker7111 my mom works with handicapped kids, so probably.
What if it's a very small part... Like a 1:64 scale car engine?
watch videos on air brush
Question: I was about to purchase the "primer filler" then i noticed another
product from the same company called "primer filler and sandable"
they're both grey in color. in this video, the guy makes use of "primer filler"
and is capable of sanding it so what's the difference ??
is getting the filler and sandable better ??
The short answer is that it shouldn't really matter, both would be sandable. We don't use a sanding specific primer on our 3D prints so I would go with the most cost-effective option.
Why is anyone asking questions here? This is just a reupload of someone else's video, go watch it on the channel of the actual creators and ask THEM questions and give THEM feedback- ua-cam.com/video/Jz_s7sJOlMU/v-deo.html
I just watched it over there and see that they have fearfully turned off commenting ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
i would not let you spray paint my car :P but nice video
Some say he's still talking to this day.
In my country we don't have Bondo, any alternative, plz?
How the f you dont have bondo maybe ita called with a different name
@@complexteo-iwnl3321 haha same thought! I'm going to investigate!
I think Bondo is a bit of overkill. I glue with Locktight super glue, then fill with DAP plastic Wood. Prime, sand, prime, sand etc. I plan to try Probond Wood Filler which looks good.
nobody who has even the slightest bit of experience sprays something with it swinging about wildly like in this video, absolutely no control what so ever , do not follow this video!
btw those paints are really expensive...
spray painting with a dust mask is completely pointless, you might as well paint without a mask at that point. use a proper respirator rated for fumes and gasses
you say to polish...after 24 hours... i don't think thats a good idea...maybe a week or more imo.. plus you never explain anything about how to polish... that looks like approx 3 hours of labor to me ... thanks
LOL they cut him off at the end. They can't make decent videos or a functional website lol
Sorry to hear you were having difficulties with our website. Anything I can help with?
@@proto3000_ At least their customer service is on point, phwoaar
should have just bough a hair dryer, lol
What a waste of paint!
But could yuu link the necesaary equipment on amazon?