*Steps to sand, fill, and prime* *Sand* -120 grit sandpaper -220 grit sandpaper -320 grit sandpaper *Fill* (wash print before applying filler primer) -coat the entire 3D print (apply about 2 coats and wait for each coat to dry before applying second coat) (stay 8-10 inches away) *sand* -sand the primer with 400 grit *wash* -wash the print off *glaze spot putty* -fill big cracks and lines -wait to dry and then sand with 400 grit *give another coat of fill primer* *wet sand* -wet the helmet and then sand with 600 grit sandpaper -wet sand again with 1500 grit sandpaper *wash*
...few tips from a painter, use a glove when you're handling the liquid bondo! that's chemicals getting in to your skin there! Second, as a pre paint layer it's better to use 800 grit wet, 1200 is actually pretty fine and a pre polishing grit, it will be bad for adhesion, maybe not directly when you paint it, but in the longer run, like a few years chances are (depending on the paint) that it's gonna crack or come loose...lastly, USE SCOTCH PADS! for this type of sanding, red scotch pads are excellent here, they are a savior to sand difficult places without damaging small details and are also great to use as a final wet sand before painting.
Came to say the same about the high grit sanding. I would say 600-800 is a great stopping place for paint. If you are going to cut and polish then the finer grit will do well for that glass like finish.
My God...someone who actually takes the time to explain the process rather than just rush through it, and actually EXPLAINS what products THEY. ARE. USING. One of the most irritating things people do is, "Now I'm gonna do this but I'm not gonna bother telling you what I'm using to accomplish the desired effect." .................. Well then, what's the POINT of a how to video if you DON'T tell us what you're using?? Everything I wanted to know has been answered in this video. And because you did such an excellent job explaining it, I subscribed. I'm definitely gonna watch your other videos, thanks for making such great content!
Those cheap masks dont do much when it comes to those fine particles, you will breath them in. You need a better mask like a painters mask for make a complete seal around your mouth/nose. Those cheap masks have so many spots not sealed. I know this from experience.
You are super awesome! I've been wanting to make a replica helmet of a character my fiance loves and I was scared about making a mess and ruining the print. You've explained things so clearly and show what you're doing to the point where I'm not anywhere near as terrified of this. Thank you so much for sharing. The final product in the next video turned out so amazing that I'm going to for sure have a hard time deciding between the matte or the polished shiny look.
I'm using this as my BIBLE right now. This is the most clear video I've seen, and I thank you SO much! It seems like everyone has their own process for this, but a lot of those processes seem unnecessarily repetitive and complicated.
Hmm, 9.5 out of 10 videos on youtube on smoothing FDM printed parts in PLA mentions sanding. I mass produce large 3D prints for customers and I am quite confident to say that sanding PLA isnt the most efficient method. Even the 3D printing services company I out source to, as I can't mass produce prints fast enough, do not offer sanding option for PLA. Hope this helps if anyone reads this. The method I use is I first spray 3-5 coats of spray putty on a fresh print. You sand down the putty into the PLA RATHER than sand the PLA... PLA very resilient to sanding. I will sand my SLA resin prints, but not PLA. Not anymore, no thanks, I have experienced that. If you sand PLA, you will notice the PLA will have fuzz/hair which are PLA ripped out of its surface by the sand paper. PLA doesn't shave off into fine powder as well as resin or putty. Try it, once you used spray putty to fill the layer lines and sand them down, you will never go back to .... "sanding PLA"... a little funny. You then finish it off to achieve the glaze normally like you usually do.
Thank you for this! When you say spray putty, do you mean filler primer? Or something else? If not filler primer, can you mention what product you use? Thank you!
@@stevetb7777 spray putty is typically found in automotive stores. They are used to cover scratches in car body repair. Google it, it should turn up right away. It can be used as primer but it's not like paint primer which is thin. Just a few coats of the spray putty builds up a fairly thick layer. Have fun :)
@@wyukigurumi Apparently not so simple. =D I'm in CA, USA. This spray putty, this isn't in an aerosol can right? Most I'm seeing have to be mixed with another chemical, and a spray gun is used. "Polyester Primer Surfacer" is what most of these are. Am I on the right track? Can you recommend any particular brands? Most of what I find I can't get here, even shipped. Thanks!
@@stevetb7777 it is definitely an aerosol spray. It also comes in a big tin for car body workers to use a spray gun with. Nah, for 3D printing hobbyists, just get the aerosol version.
I’m printing this helmet for Halloween to go out with my friends in our own dc costumes and this video is freaking awesome thank you so much. NOBODY went into this much depth, so this helped a lot.
problem when you start sanding with 1000+ grit is not all paint can adhere to it, even in the automotive world even super cars they will only sand to 400-600, paint needs grit to adhere to smooth surfaces better. also spray paint there is no point in going above 1000, as the natural textured formed due to the less atomization vs conventional spray guns will basically ignore all the extra work you put in. it will just naturally cover and flow based on how you apply the next few coats of paint regardless of a 400 grit finish or 1000+ normally after primer you sand to 400-600 then you do a sealer coat before base which smooths out any potential grit lines, wait 30 mins then do base coat, waiting proper flash times between coats for best adhesion possible. save 1000+ for cutting and buffing clear coats for ultra smooth finishes.
Maybe spray Mr. Super Clear mat? Never tried that but I have done some doll repaints and used that so the colored pencils and chalk can hold on to something.
Yeah 1000+ grit is really a little overkill prior to painting. Wet sanding should be done after a few coats of paint have been laid down. On the other hand I doubt the high grit will impact adhesion, I guess any solvent will readily eat into the PLA anyway.
Yep, I've listened to everyone and am being more careful. You always start out that way, then get lazy. I have a number of older woodworker friends who have lost tips of fingers since they just make stupid mistakes cause they are so used to the machines now that they cut corners.
Love the video and your fine work, a few too many grits for the average Joe, at about $12 per grit pack at Home Depot, 120/220/320/400/600/1200 plus the 2X Primer =$100. I get by with 120, 320 400 and 1000 but your results are superior....I will also use a palm sander using 80 on bigger sections of flat areas...if money and time were no objects, I'd like to follow your grit choices
Coming here two years later! Amazing video and very well explained. My only question is, do you always want to wash the filler off before paint? Like always end with sanding amd then washing? Then let dry and paint?
I've found that silicone "brushes" work excellent for smoothing on your putty. It really smooshes it into the cracks. Thanks for the video, very helpful
$20 worth of filament $10 of Bondo Sandpaper... $5? Primer $5 Gold paint $5 Candy red $15 Clear coat $5 Minimum $65. Probably closer to $80, plus a LOT of time. I'm using the cheap stuff, but it's expensive to finish this prop. Not including the time I had to spend in Meshmixer to cut it down to fit an Ender 3.
What if you already did the paint job, but half a year later you realize there are still printing lines and imperfections that you want to get rid off? Can you just sand it down again, but primer/wood putty etc on it and "start over"? Don't wanna ruin my build as i really love it
me prior to this video, thinking 120 and 220 grit sandpaper will be enough: him going up into the thousands: well. i guess i need to get some more sandpaper
Fantastic video. Thankyou! Relatively new to 3D printing so it's great to see someone going back to basics and being able to see someone else's approach.
I recommend saving yourself ALOT of steps and getting a better, more consistent end result by washing the plastic first then coating the entire piece with the glazing. from there you can start sanding straight away with the 400. since you already have the glazing in your workflow, do it as a first step. Or, do bondo. Either one. I personally would just mix up bondo and use bondo on the piece but for something like a mask the glazing's fine too as a first step But either way, wash the hell out of it, let it dry, blow it out with a dry air compressor line to get rid of dust and other materials, and then just glaze or bondo it. REALLY thin, just covering the lines. Then start sanding at 400. If 400 isn't cutting enough drop down to 320 but once you get the hang of it and are able to put an even, thin layer of bondo or glaze, you won't need to go to 320 and can start at 400. It will save hours and hours and hours of time, and the end result is usually better becuase there's less chance of distorting the lines of the piece by "over sanding" with the lower grits trying to even out the lines. Doing it this way also negates the need for sandable/fillable primer, although you can still use that if you want. A regular primer will do just fine though. Also, its a good idea to NOT sand primer past 400-800 grit. While you CAN, you're actually removing some of the mechanical surface imperfections that the final coats of paint will use to adhere to the primer. The smoother it is, the less mechanical adhesion. You want to wait til you're on youre final clear coat to use the 2,000+ grits. What I usually do with primer is sand it smooth with 400 and wash it and paint it. Once the final clear is on and cured enough to sand, I sand it with 1500, 2000, 25000, then 3000. This will produce a mirror finish EVERY TIME.
This sounds like a more traditional method. I thought I had seen somewhere that you wanted a certain level of grit for the paint to adhere to so that’s good. Thanks for sharing!
I have a question? At 5:55 when you start sanding again, what grit do you start using? Really new to this so I’m just tryna be cautious with my own print as I follow your guide
Love your videos. I’m making a helmet I plan to have signed at a future con. Any idea how to proceed with clear coat? Should I clear coat before and after? Or just wait on the clear coat until after signed? I don’t know if the clear coat will hinder the helmet being signed if applied beforehand. Thanks!
I'm not sure to be honest. I would do a test. Paint a scrap print, sign it with a sharpie then test it with a clear coat that u know works with the paint. If it works bring that sharpie.
I'm using 3000 grit wet sand paper as a last sanding process ! if you don't want to paint your product i think you can use 5000 grit after all these sanding process and also you can make very high qualify silicone mold from your 3dprinted part.
first video i saw from the beggining to the end, when i was starting at 3d printing i was like meeh! this is wortless better learn to print really well but it is almost imposible in normal 3d printers so this is really necesary if you want a valuable piece, thank you so much
HA! I was actually trying to not get mad and start swearing. I screwed that part up a number of times and was just trying to chill. But yeah, I am old. :P
I'm "stuck", after you make an error and sand too much, you want to add your wood or bondo glaze filler, sand it again and prime, but I'm finding after I wood fill and sand, the wood fill kind of falls out leaving the pitting still. Is the idea to not sand too vigorously after you fill the pits, I didn't wait more than 15 min so maybe it hadn't hardened? Thank you kindly
Thanks for the forecast! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (behave today finger ski upon boy assault summer exhaust beauty stereo over). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
Muito bom o vídeo, quantas camadas deixo antes e depois do preenchimento na hora da impressão? Qual o ideal para não correr risco de chegar ao preenchimento interno quando estiver lixando?
quick question and may be silly, I printed a samurai mask and unfortunately already sprayed primer on it ... anyone think that I can still do these steps without issue?
Thank you so much for this amazing video! I have a quick question: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (air carpet target dish off jeans toilet sweet piano spoil fruit essay). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
the foam for applying is a great idea, never though about that also realized what you were talking about, using too much of the glazing putty has caused it to crack for me, gotta go back and use a heavier filler first and then use the glaze to fill the small remaining stuff
isn't it a bit overkill to go all over 2000 if you're going to paint it ? You can still buff the paint if you use some thick paint. I went all the way to 3000 and polish paste but only on some metalic 3D print (Bronzefill) to get the best effect of the filament. Otherwise, great video.
Well for example the first grit, the most aggressive I stopped when I could see that most of the larger peaks and valleys were worn down. Then I moved to the next. Usually you just need to do it by eye. go over it once and see if the imperfections your were sanding is gone and move to the next.
In woodworking, sanding with finer grits is all about removing scratches from the previous grit. In that sense you would remove ALL imperfections and layerlines from the start, before going to the next grit. So that you only have to remove scratches from the sandpaper when you proceed. That makes it way faster to finish. And going anywhere beyond 800 grit is a waste of time, because you are only polishing the surface, giving the paint less grip. I would probably not go beyond 400 grit before painting, but then wet sand the primer.
Yeah, that's a lot harder. You can use smaller sanding tools and files but its not as easy. Fir really intricate models you will only be able to do so much on an FDM printer before you have to move to resin printing.
I like to start with a 60 grit then move to a 120 and then a 400 I then add a filler sand down with 120 then 400 and do some filler primer and sand that down with 400 its usually ready for base there but some times I need some more filler.
It's a great video and great work, but I'll save you tonnes of time with this advice (naysayers are welcome to chime in).There's absolutely zero reason to sand the surface material and/or filler down to anything over 400g, let alone going all the way up to 2000. In fact, sanding your rough surface to anything above 400g will cause problems with your primer adhesion. The prime layer is meant to soak in and fill shallow scratches - like the scratches left by 220g to 400g - and again to be sanded down to 220g-400g in preparation for the first colour coat. The first colour coat is for bonding and final sanding (unless you spot more scratches that you want out - then you could recoat it, or clearcoat it, or even waxless polish might deal with it). The last colour coat is your final surface, in which it's your choice to wet-sand, or not. A well sprayed topcoat doesn't need final wet sanding, unless you're going for perfection. Save the tedious high-grit micro-sanding for the last coat on any project.
amazing work you did ^^, i was wondering which sand layer you used after the primer filler :) I'm using red spray paint instead of manual so was wondering about the thicker grooves on top
@@3DPrintedProps when I've used Rust-Oleum my sandpaper tends to get gummed up almost instantly. Even doing light coats and I even had a full week of drying time. I prefer duplicolor in every regard. Definitely worth checking out.
This video is lovely, but please just as good practice. Do NOT sand in circles. If you get dirt or other small particles between your project and your sandpaper. Which can cause large scratches. Meaning you would have to start over in that area with a lower grit sandpaper. Like I said. Awesome video, great details just try to avoid circles.
This is such a detailed video. I’m making (more like putting together) a mandalorian cosplay and just bought a lot of 3D printed armour. Will definitely be using this video for reference
Great video. But you have 3 sets of instructions. Intro of the video you present the set of steps you do. Taking us through the actual process, the steps differ from your intro. And finally in the recap, the steps differ a third time. I guess I'll just try it out until I find the one that works best? :) No hate, just found it a bit confusing.
For some reason, after I primed my parts with the fillable and sandable primer, when I start sanding it, the primer starts to come off in chunks. What should I do? I spent so much time on this already /:
my part looks horrible lol. the primer is ripped off in chunks and smooth in other places. idk what to do but this sucks having spent so much time on it.
Im just a woodworking enthusiast but am getting into 3d printing and you have noooo idea how unbelievably iritating it is to see thousands of people who SELL unsanded 3d prints that are finished and painted...... i find that infuriating...
Well its the sanding and finishing that takes the time and therefore would make a print expensive. So selling un-sanded prints allows more people to buy them and learn how to do it themselves. For example, a file for a helmet like this would cost about 10-15, a raw print 60-90, but a finished print, sanded and primed could be hundreds due to the time involved. And a finished painted helmet could run 300.
This is fantastic for someone looking how to get your prints nice and smooth before painting! Can’t wait to see the next one!
whoa
Shut up Jessy
@@dasu-beida yo chill
Couldn't agree more with the legend himself "Uncle jessy" 😎👍 awesome video guys thank you
@@verkanoprints3746 June j Jo
*Steps to sand, fill, and prime*
*Sand*
-120 grit sandpaper
-220 grit sandpaper
-320 grit sandpaper
*Fill* (wash print before applying filler primer)
-coat the entire 3D print (apply about 2 coats and wait for each coat to dry before applying second coat) (stay 8-10 inches away)
*sand*
-sand the primer with 400 grit
*wash*
-wash the print off
*glaze spot putty*
-fill big cracks and lines
-wait to dry and then sand with 400 grit
*give another coat of fill primer*
*wet sand*
-wet the helmet and then sand with 600 grit sandpaper
-wet sand again with 1500 grit sandpaper
*wash*
Does the hight grit (1500) sandpaper get rid of the sanding marks? I’m getting ride of the layer line but am seeing sanding marks
@@domthemom2270 Yes
do you wash with soap and water or just water?
@@gage.does.everything here ya go 2:52
@@gage.does.everythingSoap and water
...few tips from a painter, use a glove when you're handling the liquid bondo! that's chemicals getting in to your skin there! Second, as a pre paint layer it's better to use 800 grit wet, 1200 is actually pretty fine and a pre polishing grit, it will be bad for adhesion, maybe not directly when you paint it, but in the longer run, like a few years chances are (depending on the paint) that it's gonna crack or come loose...lastly, USE SCOTCH PADS! for this type of sanding, red scotch pads are excellent here, they are a savior to sand difficult places without damaging small details and are also great to use as a final wet sand before painting.
I know, I need to remember gloves when using bondo. I'll definitely try the scotch pads. Thanks.
Came to say the same about the high grit sanding. I would say 600-800 is a great stopping place for paint. If you are going to cut and polish then the finer grit will do well for that glass like finish.
Use scotch pads instead of the 120 - 800/1200 sand paper?
@@Sal_Sal27 As a pre paint sanding stage, 1200 is way too high...800 max, the nice thing about scotch is that it can easy sand not flat surfaces.
@@peterdocter4659 my bad. I meant, when do I use the scotch pads?
My God...someone who actually takes the time to explain the process rather than just rush through it, and actually EXPLAINS what products THEY. ARE. USING.
One of the most irritating things people do is, "Now I'm gonna do this but I'm not gonna bother telling you what I'm using to accomplish the desired effect."
..................
Well then, what's the POINT of a how to video if you DON'T tell us what you're using??
Everything I wanted to know has been answered in this video.
And because you did such an excellent job explaining it, I subscribed.
I'm definitely gonna watch your other videos, thanks for making such great content!
Thanks man. I really appreciate it. Got some new stuff out soon. Have a family emergency going on right now but should be getting a vid out this week.
Those cheap masks dont do much when it comes to those fine particles, you will breath them in. You need a better mask like a painters mask for make a complete seal around your mouth/nose. Those cheap masks have so many spots not sealed. I know this from experience.
You are super awesome! I've been wanting to make a replica helmet of a character my fiance loves and I was scared about making a mess and ruining the print. You've explained things so clearly and show what you're doing to the point where I'm not anywhere near as terrified of this. Thank you so much for sharing. The final product in the next video turned out so amazing that I'm going to for sure have a hard time deciding between the matte or the polished shiny look.
Glad I could help! Either one looks great, but yeah, its a tough choice. :)
I'm using this as my BIBLE right now. This is the most clear video I've seen, and I thank you SO much! It seems like everyone has their own process for this, but a lot of those processes seem unnecessarily repetitive and complicated.
This video couldn’t have come at a more perfect time THANK YOU SO MUCH I’ve been struggling to get my mandalorian helmet smooth
Glad I could help! It's a lot of work, but really worth it in the end. 😀
I can literally scrape off this primer with my finger nail… what did I do wrong?
Missing a video with tips for small parts, like action figures
Now I see why some of these helmets cost over $300 on Etsy
Yep. I have people asking ne to do helmets all the time, but they are just too much work and people won't pay 400 bucks.
Hmm, 9.5 out of 10 videos on youtube on smoothing FDM printed parts in PLA mentions sanding. I mass produce large 3D prints for customers and I am quite confident to say that sanding PLA isnt the most efficient method. Even the 3D printing services company I out source to, as I can't mass produce prints fast enough, do not offer sanding option for PLA.
Hope this helps if anyone reads this. The method I use is I first spray 3-5 coats of spray putty on a fresh print. You sand down the putty into the PLA RATHER than sand the PLA... PLA very resilient to sanding. I will sand my SLA resin prints, but not PLA. Not anymore, no thanks, I have experienced that. If you sand PLA, you will notice the PLA will have fuzz/hair which are PLA ripped out of its surface by the sand paper. PLA doesn't shave off into fine powder as well as resin or putty.
Try it, once you used spray putty to fill the layer lines and sand them down, you will never go back to .... "sanding PLA"... a little funny. You then finish it off to achieve the glaze normally like you usually do.
I've had a few people mention that in the comments, I'll definitely try that next time. Thanks! :)
Thank you for this! When you say spray putty, do you mean filler primer? Or something else? If not filler primer, can you mention what product you use? Thank you!
@@stevetb7777 spray putty is typically found in automotive stores. They are used to cover scratches in car body repair. Google it, it should turn up right away. It can be used as primer but it's not like paint primer which is thin. Just a few coats of the spray putty builds up a fairly thick layer. Have fun :)
@@wyukigurumi Apparently not so simple. =D I'm in CA, USA. This spray putty, this isn't in an aerosol can right? Most I'm seeing have to be mixed with another chemical, and a spray gun is used. "Polyester Primer Surfacer" is what most of these are. Am I on the right track? Can you recommend any particular brands? Most of what I find I can't get here, even shipped. Thanks!
@@stevetb7777 it is definitely an aerosol spray. It also comes in a big tin for car body workers to use a spray gun with.
Nah, for 3D printing hobbyists, just get the aerosol version.
Why not just carefully use the Bondo filing putty from the start? Can it be thinned so it spreads easy, allowed to dry a little longer then sanded?
Im wondering, when you prime and sand again, what grit are you using? 120? And after you spot putty it, are you using 120 or a finer grit?
After I prime I use a 220 to 320 then after the putty I use the same and go to a 400.
You are amazing!
That was a very uncomfortable 3 seconds there, what were you thinking?, "Oh, shut!, I forgot the baby at the Drycleaners!", LOL!
A video I just needed!! Super straight forward and I love it! I’m a cosplayer, got some prints commissioned for me and about to start sanding away!
Awesome! Glad it helped. Make sure to watch the painting vid too. :)
I’m printing this helmet for Halloween to go out with my friends in our own dc costumes and this video is freaking awesome thank you so much. NOBODY went into this much depth, so this helped a lot.
Awesome man! So glad it helped!! :)
How did it go!?
@@supergamertv8293 He's stiill sanding it :)
problem when you start sanding with 1000+ grit is not all paint can adhere to it, even in the automotive world even super cars they will only sand to 400-600, paint needs grit to adhere to smooth surfaces better.
also spray paint there is no point in going above 1000, as the natural textured formed due to the less atomization vs conventional spray guns will basically ignore all the extra work you put in.
it will just naturally cover and flow based on how you apply the next few coats of paint regardless of a 400 grit finish or 1000+
normally after primer you sand to 400-600 then you do a sealer coat before base which smooths out any potential grit lines, wait 30 mins then do base coat, waiting proper flash times between coats for best adhesion possible.
save 1000+ for cutting and buffing clear coats for ultra smooth finishes.
I'll have to try that. Thanks.
Maybe spray Mr. Super Clear mat?
Never tried that but I have done some doll repaints and used that so the colored pencils and chalk can hold on to something.
Yeah 1000+ grit is really a little overkill prior to painting. Wet sanding should be done after a few coats of paint have been laid down. On the other hand I doubt the high grit will impact adhesion, I guess any solvent will readily eat into the PLA anyway.
wrapping the sandpaper around a sponge...now that is genius! I learned something new today :D
Glad it helped. Saves my fingers at the end of the day. :)
I'd definitely wear gloves when handling the spot putty by hand!
Yep, I've listened to everyone and am being more careful. You always start out that way, then get lazy. I have a number of older woodworker friends who have lost tips of fingers since they just make stupid mistakes cause they are so used to the machines now that they cut corners.
@@3DPrintedProps That's great to hear! Definitely keep up the amazing work! Got yourself a new sub
Love the video and your fine work, a few too many grits for the average Joe, at about $12 per grit pack at Home Depot, 120/220/320/400/600/1200 plus the 2X Primer =$100. I get by with 120, 320 400 and 1000 but your results are superior....I will also use a palm sander using 80 on bigger sections of flat areas...if money and time were no objects, I'd like to follow your grit choices
I missed 1500 so we're over $100 eesshh
me after hearing many stages of sanding he recommends:
10:00
Thanks for explaining this well. I avoid the sanding/painting process, but this might change my mind :)
Cool, glad it helped. The painting video should be up this week. :)
After you use the spot puty what grit do you sand it with
Usually 400.
@@3DPrintedProps thanks also would just sandable primer work
That pause from 9:59 to 10:05 caught me off guard xD
put a couple drops of Dawn in the water, helps to keep the wet paper from clogging.
Nice, I'll try that. Working on a couple new helmets this weekend. Thnx.
Coming here two years later! Amazing video and very well explained. My only question is, do you always want to wash the filler off before paint? Like always end with sanding amd then washing? Then let dry and paint?
Yeah. You need a clean surface before u paint every time
I've found that silicone "brushes" work excellent for smoothing on your putty. It really smooshes it into the cracks. Thanks for the video, very helpful
Thanks for sharing! I do love those things.
Man. Get some proper Mirka sandpaper instead of those crappy dollarstore papers. Trust me. It will chance ur life!
Ha! I'm to cheap.
$20 worth of filament
$10 of Bondo
Sandpaper... $5?
Primer $5
Gold paint $5
Candy red $15
Clear coat $5
Minimum $65. Probably closer to $80, plus a LOT of time.
I'm using the cheap stuff, but it's expensive to finish this prop.
Not including the time I had to spend in Meshmixer to cut it down to fit an Ender 3.
Yep, its a expensive hobby. :)
Use soapy water to wet sand... It'll help with sanding
Cool, thanks for the tip!
Why do you print it in gray if it's going to be completely painted? Uncolored filament prints the best.
Never heard that before. I usually just buy the cheapest color since I am going to paint it.
I went to Dollar Tree 🌳 and bought a pack of 36 sand paper sheets ranging from 80-400 grit for $1
Oh, that's great, I'll check that out. :)
My Rust-oleum says : Automotive sandable and filler primer.
Yours does not say 'Automotive'. Are they same or different?
What if you already did the paint job, but half a year later you realize there are still printing lines and imperfections that you want to get rid off?
Can you just sand it down again, but primer/wood putty etc on it and "start over"? Don't wanna ruin my build as i really love it
That can get tricky. I would start a new build with everything you've learned. :)
10:00 awkward silence, lol
Yep, forgot to edit that part. :P
me prior to this video, thinking 120 and 220 grit sandpaper will be enough:
him going up into the thousands:
well. i guess i need to get some more sandpaper
😝🤣
ive been sanding these past days and i was wondering, is this filler primer bad for your skin? should i use gloves or not?
I'd check the can, but I don't. I do wear a respirator because of the fine dust.
Maybe wear some gloves applying the red filler thing. Bare fingers with this kind of material is not the best idea.
Thanks. Yeah, I've started to since everyone recommended it. :)
Fantastic video. Thankyou! Relatively new to 3D printing so it's great to see someone going back to basics and being able to see someone else's approach.
Thanks. It's a really fun project and I think showing all the little steps really helps. 😀
I recommend saving yourself ALOT of steps and getting a better, more consistent end result by washing the plastic first then coating the entire piece with the glazing. from there you can start sanding straight away with the 400. since you already have the glazing in your workflow, do it as a first step. Or, do bondo. Either one. I personally would just mix up bondo and use bondo on the piece but for something like a mask the glazing's fine too as a first step But either way, wash the hell out of it, let it dry, blow it out with a dry air compressor line to get rid of dust and other materials, and then just glaze or bondo it. REALLY thin, just covering the lines. Then start sanding at 400. If 400 isn't cutting enough drop down to 320 but once you get the hang of it and are able to put an even, thin layer of bondo or glaze, you won't need to go to 320 and can start at 400. It will save hours and hours and hours of time, and the end result is usually better becuase there's less chance of distorting the lines of the piece by "over sanding" with the lower grits trying to even out the lines. Doing it this way also negates the need for sandable/fillable primer, although you can still use that if you want. A regular primer will do just fine though. Also, its a good idea to NOT sand primer past 400-800 grit. While you CAN, you're actually removing some of the mechanical surface imperfections that the final coats of paint will use to adhere to the primer. The smoother it is, the less mechanical adhesion. You want to wait til you're on youre final clear coat to use the 2,000+ grits. What I usually do with primer is sand it smooth with 400 and wash it and paint it. Once the final clear is on and cured enough to sand, I sand it with 1500, 2000, 25000, then 3000. This will produce a mirror finish EVERY TIME.
This sounds like a more traditional method. I thought I had seen somewhere that you wanted a certain level of grit for the paint to adhere to so that’s good. Thanks for sharing!
great explanation video!!! seriously. most people should take notes on how you explain the steps like this 💯
Wow. Thanks man. I really appreciate that.
Amazing video, but what grit did you use after the primer stage? I assume just 320 but you dont say.
The sanding after the putty is a 400, then the final sanding is a wet sand at 600 and 1000. :)
Taking notes: ok so start with 120 and work to 500k if that doesnt help find 1 million grit.got it.
1 MILLION GRIT!!! I want some. :P
At 10:02 anyone else feel like it was the scene from the Matrix with the black cat?!?!?
HA! Yep, that was an edit I forgot. 😛
A bright adjustable spot lamp halps. Also, a vise with individual foam grips allow you to file with two hands. This gives you more control.
Great idea, and I get to buy more tools. :P
I have a question? At 5:55 when you start sanding again, what grit do you start using? Really new to this so I’m just tryna be cautious with my own print as I follow your guide
as said by another commenter, he's using a 400 grit!
Hi! Do can I sand a 3d print fresh off the bed or should I let it cool down? Just subscribed your channel is a life saver!
I don't think it matters. The only part that is still a little warm is the bottom and by the time you take the supports off its cool too.
@@3DPrintedPropsthanks for the response ‼️
Love your videos. I’m making a helmet I plan to have signed at a future con. Any idea how to proceed with clear coat? Should I clear coat before and after? Or just wait on the clear coat until after signed? I don’t know if the clear coat will hinder the helmet being signed if applied beforehand. Thanks!
I'm not sure to be honest. I would do a test. Paint a scrap print, sign it with a sharpie then test it with a clear coat that u know works with the paint. If it works bring that sharpie.
@@3DPrintedProps thanks for the input I’ll do just that!
Gotta try the sponge trick! 😀
Definitely saves your fingers from some cramping. :)
I'm using 3000 grit wet sand paper as a last sanding process ! if you don't want to paint your product i think you can use 5000 grit after all these sanding process and also you can make very high qualify silicone mold from your 3dprinted part.
first video i saw from the beggining to the end, when i was starting at 3d printing i was like meeh! this is wortless better learn to print really well but it is almost imposible in normal 3d printers so this is really necesary if you want a valuable piece, thank you so much
Thanks!
What grit of sandpaper did you use to sand down the layer of putty? Great vid btw
10:00
Old people staring at the card reader as it says "remove card"
HA! I was actually trying to not get mad and start swearing. I screwed that part up a number of times and was just trying to chill. But yeah, I am old. :P
it would be nice if there was a link to the product used in this video.
Weird, I know I added it. I'll get it all back in there. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm "stuck", after you make an error and sand too much, you want to add your wood or bondo glaze filler, sand it again and prime, but I'm finding after I wood fill and sand, the wood fill kind of falls out leaving the pitting still. Is the idea to not sand too vigorously after you fill the pits, I didn't wait more than 15 min so maybe it hadn't hardened?
Thank you kindly
Thanks for the forecast! A bit off-topic, but I wanted to ask: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (behave today finger ski upon boy assault summer exhaust beauty stereo over). How should I go about transferring them to Binance?
What about seam lines from gluing pieces together?
Hello, you can do pretty much the same things, fill the cracks with bondo or a filler, sand and just keep working it till they are gone.
Muito bom o vídeo, quantas camadas deixo antes e depois do preenchimento na hora da impressão? Qual o ideal para não correr risco de chegar ao preenchimento interno quando estiver lixando?
Hello I found your videos super helpful! But I wanted to ask what grit sandpaper do you use after applying the primer?
quick question and may be silly, I printed a samurai mask and unfortunately already sprayed primer on it ... anyone think that I can still do these steps without issue?
You can sand after priming, a lot of people do it in this order, I just like doing it this way.
Cool, I appreciate the quick response! Love your work and videos 😀
So after filler priming. What grit do we continue to use? do I start again at 120/220/320? Or just 320?
I start back at 320 or 400.
@@3DPrintedProps thanks. I'll start there. If it needs a lower grit I'll go down one at a time
Thank you so much for this amazing video! I have a quick question: I have a SafePal wallet with USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (air carpet target dish off jeans toilet sweet piano spoil fruit essay). What's the best way to send them to Binance?
the foam for applying is a great idea, never though about that
also realized what you were talking about, using too much of the glazing putty has caused it to crack for me, gotta go back and use a heavier filler first and then use the glaze to fill the small remaining stuff
Yeah. The glazing is for finish work. It cracks like crazy when put on too thick. 😀
For all that work, why not just sculpt it yourself?
Well, because I like #D printing and the work involved, and I'm not a sculpter. :P
Why would you not use a sander for such a large print? Carpal Tunnel Syndrome is no fun..thanks much for the vid
Have you already mentioned what kind of foam you’re using to apply the bondo? Thanks.
It's just some scrap EVA foam I have lying around.
@@3DPrintedProps okay thanks!
This video is perfect, thank you very much. Too bad I don't know how that filler primer is called here in my country though aah ='(
Glad it helped. I know that a lot of countries call it spray putty, try checking for that.
isn't it a bit overkill to go all over 2000 if you're going to paint it ? You can still buff the paint if you use some thick paint.
I went all the way to 3000 and polish paste but only on some metalic 3D print (Bronzefill) to get the best effect of the filament.
Otherwise, great video.
Yeah, 2k is a bit much bit man...that sucker is smmmoooottthhhh. :)
yeah this is what I was looking for! Definitly going to buy a 3D printer now I see how to finish the details. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
How do you know when you should stop sanding with one grit and move on to the next?
Amazing tutorial BTW
Well for example the first grit, the most aggressive I stopped when I could see that most of the larger peaks and valleys were worn down. Then I moved to the next. Usually you just need to do it by eye. go over it once and see if the imperfections your were sanding is gone and move to the next.
In woodworking, sanding with finer grits is all about removing scratches from the previous grit. In that sense you would remove ALL imperfections and layerlines from the start, before going to the next grit. So that you only have to remove scratches from the sandpaper when you proceed. That makes it way faster to finish. And going anywhere beyond 800 grit is a waste of time, because you are only polishing the surface, giving the paint less grip. I would probably not go beyond 400 grit before painting, but then wet sand the primer.
Quick question, is the helmet made from PLA or ABS? does anybody know? Other than that, awesome step by step tutorial!
Seing how my helmet is fairly complicated I got no idea if I'll ever be able to do it.
Well IF I ever do it this will be a good tutorial.
How are you supposed to do this with less flat surfaces? Like with prints with lots of grooves and stuff?
Yeah, that's a lot harder. You can use smaller sanding tools and files but its not as easy. Fir really intricate models you will only be able to do so much on an FDM printer before you have to move to resin printing.
Sorry for the late reply, but thank you!
your glasses teleported towards the end. great video tho.
One of your best videos.
Thanks man. I really appreciate it. 😀
Oh man I bought a 3D printed Sword of the Creator from Fire Emblem Three Houses and I don’t even know how to get it sanded because of all the details
Get little files and or sanding sticks and then remember, get it as good as you can then relax and just finish it.
I like to start with a 60 grit then move to a 120 and then a 400 I then add a filler sand down with 120 then 400 and do some filler primer and sand that down with 400 its usually ready for base there but some times I need some more filler.
Sure, whatever works. I find 60 grit a little to aggressive though.
It's a great video and great work, but I'll save you tonnes of time with this advice (naysayers are welcome to chime in).There's absolutely zero reason to sand the surface material and/or filler down to anything over 400g, let alone going all the way up to 2000. In fact, sanding your rough surface to anything above 400g will cause problems with your primer adhesion. The prime layer is meant to soak in and fill shallow scratches - like the scratches left by 220g to 400g - and again to be sanded down to 220g-400g in preparation for the first colour coat. The first colour coat is for bonding and final sanding (unless you spot more scratches that you want out - then you could recoat it, or clearcoat it, or even waxless polish might deal with it). The last colour coat is your final surface, in which it's your choice to wet-sand, or not. A well sprayed topcoat doesn't need final wet sanding, unless you're going for perfection.
Save the tedious high-grit micro-sanding for the last coat on any project.
amazing work you did ^^, i was wondering which sand layer you used after the primer filler :) I'm using red spray paint instead of manual so was wondering about the thicker grooves on top
I suggest duplicolor filler primer. I will never use rustoleum again!
I'll try it. I haven't had issues with the Rust-Oleum though.
@@3DPrintedProps when I've used Rust-Oleum my sandpaper tends to get gummed up almost instantly. Even doing light coats and I even had a full week of drying time. I prefer duplicolor in every regard. Definitely worth checking out.
This is an incredibly detailed video, you can tell this guy has such knowledge and passion for this!
What type of sandpaper do you use after the glazer compound?
Hello, Usually 400. :)
@@3DPrintedProps You do amazing work! Thanks for the reply!
This video is lovely, but please just as good practice. Do NOT sand in circles. If you get dirt or other small particles between your project and your sandpaper. Which can cause large scratches. Meaning you would have to start over in that area with a lower grit sandpaper. Like I said. Awesome video, great details just try to avoid circles.
Huh, I always thought you were supposed to sand in circles. I'll check into it more. Thanks.
This is such a detailed video. I’m making (more like putting together) a mandalorian cosplay and just bought a lot of 3D printed armour. Will definitely be using this video for reference
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. But you have 3 sets of instructions.
Intro of the video you present the set of steps you do.
Taking us through the actual process, the steps differ from your intro.
And finally in the recap, the steps differ a third time.
I guess I'll just try it out until I find the one that works best? :)
No hate, just found it a bit confusing.
@10:00 his brain falls out of his head.
HA!! I totally missed that edit. :P
@@3DPrintedProps I literally laughed out loud! Great video!
Hi Sir. i Learing 3D Print Details and Buy You coures in udemy. I coming day started this Business. Thank you i need you help
May I ask for guess price for that mask? Without being printed and sanded? How much do you think?
im new to 3d printing. Sometimes when i take off the support there's residue left. Like the plastic peeling back- can this be sanded?
For some reason, after I primed my parts with the fillable and sandable primer, when I start sanding it, the primer starts to come off in chunks. What should I do? I spent so much time on this already /:
please respond
my part looks horrible lol. the primer is ripped off in chunks and smooth in other places. idk what to do but this sucks having spent so much time on it.
After you sanded it all, did your wash it to remove all the dust from the sanding and also what primer did you use?
Great in depth video, got a mando helmet for Christmas and have been struggling but this helped me a lot thank you!
Awesome! Glad it helped. :)
hi ! i'm trying to find this red filler in italy, can't find it, i tried something for glass, but is silicon
does it matter what colour filament i use?
Nope. But, I don't like to use white though, because its harder to see the layer lines when I'm sanding.
What grit did you use for after you applied the primer and bondo?
Also how long did the over all process take you?
I used 400 then went up to wet sanding with the higher grits. I'd say 6-7 hours
just a thought, a side by side of the before and after would've been nice..
is the sandpaper that you use is for wood or steel?
Just regular wood sandpaper. I have affiliate links in the description.
Im just a woodworking enthusiast but am getting into 3d printing and you have noooo idea how unbelievably iritating it is to see thousands of people who SELL unsanded 3d prints that are finished and painted...... i find that infuriating...
Well its the sanding and finishing that takes the time and therefore would make a print expensive. So selling un-sanded prints allows more people to buy them and learn how to do it themselves. For example, a file for a helmet like this would cost about 10-15, a raw print 60-90, but a finished print, sanded and primed could be hundreds due to the time involved. And a finished painted helmet could run 300.
is the glazing compound a 1 part or do you have to mix a hardener with it, thanks