A secret spray putty? A new high build primer for sanding 3D prints | smooth layer lines easy!
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Thanks for stopping by & checking out what could be my new go to product for smoothing 3D prints!
You seen from the results this is not only a fast & awesome product, but easy on the wallet & locally available! (additional links below)
I've left links of the product & some recommendations for set up & ppe in regarding these products.
Be sure to subscribe to the channel & join me for my 10K livestream where I'll be doing subscriber giveaways & more!(info coming soon)
Give me a thumbs up if you liked the video & drop a comment & let me know what you think!
Follow me on social media & join my discord by clicking here linktr.ee/dark...
Music credit to @IPrevailBand
Product links & recommendations
3M respirator
amzn.to/3IxPY5u
Pop up spray tent
amzn.to/3BSZRH6
Painting turntable
amzn.to/3oq2ay8
Sanding sponges 320 grit & up
amzn.to/3MSJq3J
Upol expert sandable primer (available locally at autozone)
www.autozone.c...
Thats it for now, until next time DW out!
As everyone says, thank you for doing the testing that you do! I appreciate the shout out as well! Happy to help.
Glad to have you here & I appreciate the support!
this is going to be game changing for my 3d printing.....thank you!
Make sure to check out my latest how to video on this, it explains step by step!
Sheeeeeah! Were going to need a head to head for all these filler primers and putties! Great work as usual 🔥🔥
Yea first thing that came to mind lol
I'm starting work on a RoboCop suit and I think this is the route I'm going to go!
Pick up a few cans of this and the upol filler primer & you’ll be golden!
@@Darkwingdadjust checked and my local autozone has some in stock so i know where i'm going after work!
@@SephzillaDZX check online there are often coupons you can use and do in store pick up
DWD is the man! I've never seen any other maker put so many man hours into trying all the different methods to hide pla lines, and report back to the 3d printing community so consistently 🤜🤛
Just trying to do my part, get the channeling growing so I can do this all the time for everyone & DO MORE! Lol I appreciate the kind words my friend.
Thank you so much for all of your testing and sharing this wealth of knowledge with us! I'm a proud student of DWD University
Anytime! I’m no professor but I’ll be the dean lol
Just bought some man I'm testing it out right now so far so good.
5 min later...This stuff works pretty damn good it dries really quick too, it's actually pulling up on me where I am I'm behind the building so that might help.
Glad to hear it’s working for you
I just bought Motip spray putty and going to test it out how this product works.
Really thanks for explaining and testing it.
A spray putty would really work good and fast for your cosplay
If this works... Ohh boy you just made me a VERY happy person! I tried the wood filler with acetone trick and all it did was make wood rubber and made a mess. Going out to buy this right now!
You will definitely love this stuff!
You have my approval for that shirt alone!
FWYTYK!!!
@@Darkwingdad Just let it go!
Okay now I’ll have to give this a try hahah
I don't like mixing and spraying putty. Even brushing a mix on is kind of a pain. I'd personally much rather use a rattle can. I already started using the normal upol stuff. I'll definitely be on the look out for this stuff next time!
what kinds of paint can you use on top of this? Lacquer automotive paints? Clear lacquer top coats?
Acrylic or lacquer paints will both work just don’t ever put lacquer on top of acrylic, it will be duller & not as crisp, you’ll have to buff it to get max shine.
Good informative video !!
Man, that's awesome!! Thanks for doing these videos!
You are awesome, I hv been thinking of the fastest way to get my print ready to go without having to do much
Great review! I’ve actually decided to use this product on an old Italian acoustic guitar. I’ve gone the traditional route using vinyl sealer and nitrocellulose lacquer. The soundboard of this instrument was made with a questionable quality wood laminate, the top layer being spruce. Sanding resulted in some spots where I went right through that spruce, revealing an ugly layer of horizontal black corduroy-like material. This not the stuff they build most good quality soundboards with. I used a combination of epoxy putty and CA glue to cover these areas, followed by lots of sanding. I thought I successfully filled all the defects. Then, after one coat of white vinyl sealer, and two coats of black gloss nitro dried, all those defects stuck out like a sore thumb. Totally frustrating. I planned for my next project, a solid body electric, to try Dupli-Color Perfect Match products, just for fun. There are those who say that auto body finishes steal some of the resonance from the wood. On acoustic guitars? Probably. But I’d say they’d best consider Leo Fender’s use of DuPont auto paint on some of his guitars built in the early sixties. They also might consider Eddie Van Halen’s wailing “Frankenstein” guitar, which was finished with bicycle paint.
Tomorrow I’ll sand off the finish on this acoustic, then try a few layers of this Upol product. Your demo convinced me to choose that route. If it yields a nice flat, level surface, all that’s left to do is put down some Dupli-Color Perfect Match for the color coat, followed by some clear coat. I’ll let you know how it goes.
Duplicolor perfect match are the best aerosols you can use especially for durability and luster. I highly recommend using a 2k clear on it. Make sure to let me know how it turns out & send pics. I’d love to showcase it for you on the channel!
@@Darkwingdad I did buy the 2K. I’ve seen a number of videos of guitars being finished with Dupli-Color products. It’s off the beaten path of traditional guitar finishing and touch-ups, but I’ve always loved automobile finishes. I thought it would be fun to have one guitar with a nice metallic finish.
I really hope this works. I’m really tired of fighting with instrument, but it belongs to my 95 year old father-in-law, so getting it done right is a priority.
@@billknudson7895 good on you for not giving up! With the products your using & some patience im sure it’s gonna look amazing!
Congrats on 10k and well deserved, lovin these vids 😁 is this available in UK ? Apologies if already been asked.
I haven’t heard of it being available in the UK sadly. However, upol is, so you may be able to order this through them.
Congratulations on 10k homie. Keep grinding and putting out awesome and helpful content.
Thanks man I appreciate it!
Dang, I was just at Autozone, now I need to go back!
My bad…lol
Good to know about this. Thanks!!
I love your videos man you definitely get rid of the guessing game for us but which is better this new upol or the bondo?
Upol by far, I still like to use bondo plastic metal for deep defects. Since I’ve started using upol, there’s really not much of a need for bondo glazing putty other than superficial touch ups. I plan on doing a video on it.
thanks pal , great info as usual , i have a trip near the local Auto zone , i will check it out
I did your UPOL Dolphin/Accetone brush on mix, followed up with the Bondo spray filler after a sanding. And holy crap did it change the game.
That’s awesome to hear, pretty crazy how fast it dries/fills & sands huh? I feel like that’s one thing that’s a motivational killer is waiting. With those products you can have 2-3 pieces & never stop, just bang bang bang em out
I want to make something like the Ironman suit. But i want to wear it on an event like comic con. I'm afraid that where two part meets there it will be scraped off by friction. Any idea how durable that putty? Also maybe any idea on how to make paint on it more durable? Something like clear coat, like matt varnish? Thank you for any help!
If it scrapes against it will inbevitably wear it off. The only thing I could think of is to do a plasti dip style paint which is more rubbery. It won’t be shiny but more durable and if it gets worn off you can simply respray it. One option you can try is putting felt on the edges of your suit where it meets. That’ll help reduce friction
@@Darkwingdad Thank you for help, i hope i"ll find something like that! Thanks again! :D
Awesome stuff
Thanks for the test, those layer lines are a bit extreme or were they done on purpose for the test??
@@rodgertaylor3204 on purpose to show how good this stuff works!
@@Darkwingdad works well as should 👍
I have some of my prints with wood glue, to cover the cracks... wondering if you think this will be ok and will apply onto wood glue no problem? or maybe Epoxy resin?
I would refrain from using wood glue on plastics
I like it!
So would you say that this eliminates the need for the spray putty step? Just spray this stuff on, then assess if putty is needed thereafter?
With this I would sand 80/180 apply upol expert, sand 320, apply upol expert than use putty/acetone where needed, sand 320/400 than final primer coat
I do flocking also LOL
Thank you.
Sweet.
Grabbed a can this afternoon to try and sand/spray our first piece. We only sanded with 80 grit and went ahead and sprayed 2 coats. Should we have done the 180 as well before laying down the first spray? Drying now so we'll see how we fared, haha. Having a great time and learning in the process. Should we be sanding very heavy handed? I see you scuffed it up really well.
Thanks and Happy Memorial Day Weekend!
I like using 180 bc it doesn’t leave the model too rough and chopped up. Sanding with 220 should be firm but not overly agressive, it sands really easy
@@Darkwingdad We're on the 220 sanding step now. Starting to smooth out and feel good. Are you using a mask while sanding the primer off? We can still smell the fumes but the piece has been drying for 2 hours and doesn't seem wet.
@@briandoiron8438 yes always wear a dusk mask
Since this is a primer. Once sanding you can just start spray painting? Dong have to prime it right?
Yes it’s a primer you can jump right into painting
For miniatures, would you recommend the Upol or bondo primer to keep details?
I like bondo personally but the new upol filler primer is very similar. The sandable upol is thicker so I might be hesitant to use that on miniatures.
I just picked some of this up and tried it, I did not get as good of results as you did but maybe I needed to use some glazing putty first? I'm new to fdm and post processing but I first sanded everything with 120, then primed with the upol, let dry and added another light coat then sanded again and reprimed. still getting lines and it doesn't look all that great =\
It’s not like a normal filler primer. You need to put it on a bit heavier I have a new video coming out showing how to apply
So now the big Question here is wish one is Better, Upol expert sandable prime or Raptor Pro Universal Gray Primer !!!!!!!!
I still think raptor fills better & requires less sanding but the cost & dry time with the expert is very appealing.
Do you wash the print? After every sanding then add this spray.
Yes you can use what’s called prep all aka naptha. It’s a degreasing solvent. I showed it in my raptor 1k video. Here’s the link amzn.to/436EPRg
what an effort man!!! thanks a lot
sad couldn't find it on amazon :(
Yea it’s not on Amazon, are you in the states?
@@Darkwingdad unfortunately not,I'm in Qatar 🥲
@@mnr3d are there any auto parts stores? Might be worth a shot to check them
@@Darkwingdad ha! In Qatar? No chances I'm findings hard time finding basic stuff let a lone these awesome products,I'm getting all my 3d printing items from Amazon
I had to buy M3 screws man..all the way from US 🫣😂
Awesome! How does it compare to raptor primer? Love the new intro btw
I think if you don’t want to do as much prep sanding raptor. But if you have a cleaner print or something not too detailed the expert.
Biggest difference is raptor is a filler so it will add more durability. Guess it’s time for more head to head testing.
Wasn’t able to find this at my local O’Reily’s 😢
Try autozone
I need to find a few cans of this ASAP. I have new helmet print and a Arc Trooper blaster to work on.
O’reillys & autozone locally carry them
@@Darkwingdad I have both in my home town. Will check them out today! Thanks for the video DarkwingDad!
@@thomaswalker9277 if not in stock they are orderable & ship to store pick up
@@Darkwingdad, wasn't able to find the expert can, but O'Reilys had the fantastic along with Upol's spot putty. Can't wait to try them out.
@@thomaswalker9277 killer combo, with the fantastic putty I HIGHLY recommend thinning it with acetone or nail polish remover & brushing it down. Dries in minutes & sands super easy.
Thoughts on Seymour PBE Filler Primer?
That’s pretty much bondo filler primer, it’s solid. I might test it to show but it’s a bit heavy in price on Amazon
Does alcohol attack this primer?
@@illla not at all, isopropyl is an organic compound, it lacks corrosive properties to ruin or effect paint & primer
How does this compare to the Raptor 1k primer you recently reviewed?
It’s tough, I still think for deeper defects 1k takes it, but for the price difference the sandable can get the job done.
Did I just hear your name mentioned on the 'Knock Once For Yes' podcast?
I’ve never watched it, can you link it?
@@Darkwingdad ua-cam.com/video/yvHnUDStphU/v-deo.html
@@Darkwingdad Seemed like an odd coincidence - just thought I'd ask.
@@beachcomberbob3496 I googled them, it’s paranormal podcast?
So question is….Raptor 1k Primer or the Upol Expert Primer?
I think if you don’t want to do as much prep sanding raptor. But if you have a cleaner print or something not too detailed the expert.
Biggest difference is raptor is a filler so it will add more durability. I feel like it’s time for a upol best of the best video to test all these including there high build 5 primer.
love your work :)
I'm planning to 3d print a project out of PLA with 0.2 layer Hight and make it look like a metal.
I have sanding papers with grids up to 3000 grid. I noticed you only done dry sanding. Is there a point or grids you would recommend wet sanding if I would want to carry on up to grid 3000?
Should I spray the project only 2 times after the initial sanding or later on between the sanding stages as well?
Did only once similar project with Bondo putty but it was very labor intense. This looks much more efficient :)
Planning to get the Upol High 5 Primer GREY 450ml Aerosol High Build as the one your testing is hard to get in UK
You really only need to wetsand IF your last layer of primer before paint has a gritty feel to it or there’s trash/imperfections on the primer. You don’t want to make the primer too smooth, paint needs something to grab on to. When I need to wetsand it’s with 800. Nothing higher. 3000 grit should be used on clear coat imperfections only
thank you
@@Darkwingdad
Currently printing R5-D4 and on the body portion. For $9.99 a can + able to use coupons, I will be trying this out. Those $20 cans just didn't seem worth it as It would cost a ton to complete this project. Been using Rustoleum 2-1 sanding primer as of now.
This will be a big step up from rustoleum, I totally get the price point on the 1k for some, lots of coupons & offers can soften the blow lol
Didn't know what video to comment this on I saw you can use wood filler to fill in later lines and it's brilliant for sanding can you recommend any for me in UK lol
Wood filler is terrible, incredibly porous & water based so it has reactions with solvents in paint. You couldn’t pay me to use it lol I would look into liquitex or upol putties
@@Darkwingdad do they do them in large tubs lol just trying to have something where it lasts and put the lid on to use when needed lol
@@Darkwingdad the liquitex seems decent witch type am I looking for do you have a preference?
@@Darkwingdad and for glueing petg to itself is super glue strong enough
@@1937Brett I’ve never tried the flexible just the regular but it worked good, I have a video on it.
Any suggestions on a paint brand to use along side this? I have mostly been using rustoleum
What are you painting? Will you be clear coating?
@@Darkwingdad a Loki horn crown and I want to start making helmets of different characters. I’ve never really painted before so idk where to really start
@@therevanite7280 you can get away with using some rustoleum metallics for starters. But when I used rattle can I found the duplicolor color match paints from autozone layed a lot better
What happens if you don’t pre sand it and just apply this first.
You’ll just have to do more coats and sand
Damn! would you say this is better or on par with the upol filler primer? my local store has both in stock O.O
Honestly, I think this is better. The coverage & filling ability is wild!
@@Darkwingdad bought a can just now. Finally gonna paint some stuff this weekend!
@@LeeFenix let me know how it goes!
Anyone know if we can find this primer in Canada? I looked many places and I had no luck with this brand.
What auto part stores are up there?
I still want to see the 2K primer?
I show it in my thanos build using slick sand
@@Darkwingdad Areosol ?
Love the vids just think there are more cool things out there
@@JdeeRat no 2 part in hvlp
@@Darkwingdad Yes there is spraymax I paint man hvlp has nothing to do with it
You sir, are the bleeding edge.
Lol until I get a C&D letter from these companies saying I’m messing up their profits 😂